"Wine Etc." is a weekly syndicated column that appears in newspapers and on newspaper websites around the country. Its home newspaper group is Capital Gazette Communications/Tribune Media at capitalgazette.com.

Consumers drinking less wine, less alcohol

April 15, 2024

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

When we began writing this weekly wine column in the 1980s, France was the envy of the wine industry.  Not only had their people been making wine longer than the United States, but they were making it better. And, the French coveted their wine like they coveted their cheese. Having a couple of glasses of wine at dinner was commonplace, partly because French tap water was so bad but mostly because wine was ensconced in French culture. 

How times have changed. Americans – and winemakers from other European regions – are making great wine using the same grapes indigenous to France. Moreso, the shine has worn off wine consumption in France. It’s no longer de rigueur.  

No longer is wine given to French kids in canteens as they go to school. Only one in 10 people in France drink a glass of wine every day – a far cry from the 1980s when half of France’s adult population drank wine daily.  

There are many reasons the French are no longer wedded to this custom and the reasons aren’t much different than those cited by Americans. 

First, the medical community is reversing the conception that wine in moderation improves health. We now read that any consumption of alcohol increases health risks. French President Emmanuel Macron sought to reverse this image when he boasted on television that he drank two glasses of wine a day. He was being supportive of one of his country’s most important economic engines, but French doctors and health advocates were appalled. 

Now, 37 percent of the French do not drink wine. Sacre bleu! 

Second, the cost of the best local wine has skyrocketed in France. With demand dropping at a time when production is increasing, producers are dumping grape juice in the streets or turning it into cleaning fluids as the government seeks to stabilize prices.  

Also influencing the decline in wine consumption is a generational change that looks more favorably on craft beer and cocktails – if anything at all.  The same is the case in the United States when younger people are no longer enamored with getting drunk. 

Wine marketers are trying to uplift the industry with confidence that this market trend will change. They are focused on projecting the industry as being environmentally sensitive – and it is.  More and more producers have adopted biodynamic and sustainable farming.  We are starting to see packaging change as well from the carbon-sapping heavy glass bottles to cardboard and aluminum containers. Still, it’s an uphill struggle now to project wine as a safe, healthy and affordable daily quaff. 

Which brings us to the point that it may not matter for too much longer. Scientists are suggesting that 70 percent of the world’s vineyards may be unsustainable at the end of this century if climate warming continues on its trajectory. Maybe milk will make a comeback. 

Shopping for wine 

Friends and acquaintances often ask us for wine suggestions and we’re hard pressed to answer.  We sample wine constantly, dump a lot and find a few to recommend. Unfortunately, we have no idea whether some of our favorite wines are available in their local stores.  Most of the gems we discover are not mass produced. So, we tend to recommend labels – Wente for chardonnay, Decoy for almost anything, La Crema for pinot noir, Bogle and J. Lohr for red, Columbia Crest for cabernet sauvignon.  These wines are widely available in grocery stores and liquor outlets.  

But we also try to steer people to regions, such as Paso Robles in California, Portugal, Spain, southern France, Sicily and parts of Italy.  Even so, wines from even these bargain regions are priced more than $25 a bottle.  

Finding a good wine in a sea of labels is a challenge that isn’t likely to change. But don’t despair; the journey is fun. Like champagne but can’t afford it? Try prosecco or a Spanish cava at a fraction of the cost. Mix it with Aperol if you aren’t satisfied with its taste. Like Prisoner and all of its spinoffs but can’t afford them? There are tons of zinfandels from Lodi that will slake your thirst for this jammy quaff. Don’t like to spend big money on prestigious wines but won’t settle for less quality? Drink less, but drink better. 

Wine picks 

Double Diamond Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($90). This is a colossal but approachable wine from Schrader.  Aggressive black fruit and cassis aromas with plum and black cherry flavors, hints of tea, earth and vanilla. 

Mount Langi Ghiran Billi Billi Shiraz 2021 ($16). From Victoria, the fruit for this shiraz produces lively and delicious black berry character with a hint of spice. Simple, yet delicious. 

DAOU PATRIMONY 2020 ($300).  In our conversations with Daniel Daou, there was never a hesitation in declaring Paso Robles the best region to make wine from Bordeaux’s noble grape varieties.  Napa Valley producers disagree, but the Daou brothers are unrelenting with this most expensive luxury wine from Paso Robles. It has continued to score 95-plus scores from critics and old bottles are fetching more than $500 – if you can find one. But let’s not call the 2020 a bargain. It is an excessive luxury few can afford. Using cabernet sauvignon grapes from a few special rows on an exclusive mountain vineyard, the full-bodied wine is aged in custom French barrels to achieve a special richness and complexity. The brothers recently sold the winery to Treasury Wine Estates for $1 billion but remain involved in the winemaking. 

M. Chapoutier Belleruche Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2021 ($15-18). Crafted from a blend of classic white Rhone varieties such as roussanne, viognier and grenache blanc. Mineral and peach notes dominate in a very nice easy to drink white wine. 

Bodega Renacer Punta Final Reserva Cabernet Franc Organic Argentina 2021 ($20-25). This cabernet franc reminded us of a very well-made chinon from the Loire Valley. Ripe berry fruit with a hint of fresh herbs makes for a very interesting and quaffable package.  

Wine production up, consumption down

April 8, 2024

By TOM MARQUARDT  and PATRICK DARR 

More has been done to study wine drinkers in recent years as producers try hard to introduce the beverage to more consumers. Alas, consumption is down significantly in almost every country, particularly among young people who eschew all alcoholic beverages or who prefer spirits and beer in moderation.  Boomers, like us, continue to hold our own because we were around when “60 Minutes” aired its impactful segment on red wine’s benefit to heart health. 

Recent studies have darkened the glow that surrounded the boom years in wine consumption, but results vary so much that it is impossible to conclude that wine consumed in moderation is either good or bad. But the projectory of sales year after year shows that the attraction to wine as a health benefit is long gone. 

On top of this decline is a wine glut in Europe that has resulted in an effort to put less wine on the market in hopes of holding prices. In France the government is paying growers to rip up vines; elsewhere, wine or juice is being dumped.  For savvy consumers, there are bargains to be found as competition heats up.  We’ve read that prices are likely to drop dramatically for the 2023 vintage yet to be released. 

The Wine Market Council did a recent study to assess consumer interest. It found that the glow has worn off the covid binge buying and a tight economy is discouraging discretionary buying.  Dining out is more important than a $50 bottle of wine. 

Out of the nearly 4,500 U.S. consumers they surveyed, about 34 percent drink wine; 13 percent drink wine exclusively over other alcholic beverages. 

Although baby boomers command the consumption lead, high-income millennials (now 27 to 42 years old) are a very important target for producers. Wealth has a lot to do with consumption for all age groups – more than half of those surveyed who earn more than $100,000 annually drink wine, but only 15 percent of those earning less than $50,000 annually do so. 

Scarcity drives prices 

We were listening to a podcast on the power of persuasion the other day and was struck by one of the first elements in convincing someone to buy a product: the principle of scarcity. 

If you have used Amazon before and noticed that an item has “only three left” or if a store salesman said “this is the last one left,” you know the persuasive power of scarcity. Numerous tests have shown that people are driven to buy something if they feel it may not be available if they wait overnight. 

It’s a principle that works in the wine industry just as well. 

Screaming Eagle is the poster child, but there are hundreds of wine producers who drive up prices and sales by limiting production. In many cases, there is a waiting period just to lay your hands on a wine that can cost more than $300 a bottle. If they increased production, there would be no scarcity and thus no stampede to their door.  

That was the case with iconic wines like Silver Oak, Caymus and even Dom Perignon whose productions were once small.  When popularity encouraged owners – often new and larger owners – to ramp up production, popularity waned. Their collector status gave way to cult wines with smaller productions.  We are always stunned to find new wines on the market that sell for well over $100 a bottle when they debut. 

We got an offer from de Negoce, a reseller of wine launched by Cameron Hughes many years ago. The Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon was available from the producer for $195. Hughes was selling it for $27 — he gets the same wine from the producer with the understanding he won’t identify the source.  

He wrote, “The winery bottled their portion and sold us the rest of the blend out of the tank so we have the exact same 100% Cabernet Sauvignon blend as the original bottling.” 

In short, the original producer didn’t want to increase production and reduce the notion of scarcity.  

With sales down, we question whether these cult producers will be able to maintain their lofty price points.  

Big Bottles 

Florida Gov. Ron DeSantis signed into law a bill that will allow the purchase of wine in glass containers up to 15 liters. This is surely good news for those of us who want to buy a couple of methuselahs (6 liters) or maybe a family size balthazar (12 liters). 

We assume these large-format bottles were banned earlier out of fear that alcoholics will drop a straw in them and carry on their madness. It was nonesense and we’re happy to see the governor do away with the ban. However, we are puzzled by his comment made at the bill signing. 

He said, “In Florida, we are always looking for ways to reduce regulation and improve our residents’ qualilty of life.” 

It’s a bit of exaggeration to say that a grande-size bottle of wine will improve the quality of life in the Sunshine State. 

Wine picks 

Hanna Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($20).  This simple and quaffable wine from the Russian River Valley is a great value. Fresh citrus and pineapple notes. 

Tenuta Sant’Antonio Monti Garbi Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2020 ($23).  A great value, this wine is made in the traditional ripasso method with dried grape skins used with fresh grapes in the secondary fermentation.  Bright red fruit, medium body and easy to drink. It is aged 12 months in barrel to add complexity. Delicious. 

Tenuta Sant’Antonio “Antonio Castagnedi” Amaroni della Valpolicella DOCG 2018 ($50).  This is the bigger version of the Monti Garbi and showcases the best from Veneto. Big yet elegant, it is a blend of corvina, rondinella, croatina and oseleta grapes. Rustic cherry flavors with fine tannins and a long finish. 

The values from Portugal

April 1, 2024

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

The wines from the Alentejo region of Portugal continue to impress us and represent some of the best values in the wine kingdom.  Although consumers may not recognize the indigenous grape varieties, they will enjoy the lively, fresh and unique white wines as well as the simple and versatile red wines. 

Alentejo is a large region of Portugal and represents about 13 percent of the country’s vineyards and 18 percent of the its wine production. The Portuguese drink about 67 liters per capita; in the U.S. per capita consumption is only 12 liters. Most of the production stays in the country, but we’re finally seeing more labels in the United States. 

Portuguese wine makers embraced sustainable farming before it was popular.  They are well ahead of other wine-growing regions that are adopting environmentally friendly farming practices. 

Here are some of the wines we liked: 

Herdade de Malhadinha Nova Antao Vaz da Malhadinha 2022 ($30). Antao Vaz is the most popular white wine grape in this region and produces wines that are fruit-forward, smoothly textured and redolent of peach, melon, citrus and mineral.  No oak is used.  

Quinta da Fonte Souto Branco 2021 ($29). This is a tasty blend of arinto and verdelho grapes sourced from two Portalegre vineyards located at just over 1,640 feet. Citrus and herbal aromas with creamy texture and stone fruit and citrus flavors. 

JMF “Jose de Sousa” Tinto 2017 ($19).  This red wine is a blend of grand noir, touriga francesa and touriga nacional. The grapes are foot-trodden in small lagares and then fermented in 100-year-old talhas, an ancient clay amphorae. These vessels are moistened several times a day to keep the temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees. Strict standards must be met for a wine to be declared a DOC Vinho de Talha. This wine has raisiny red fruit flavors with tobacco and spice aromas and a hint of oak. 

FitaPreta Tinto 2021 ($27).  From the Evora area, this medium-bodied red wine is a blend of aragones, alicante bouschet, trincadeira and castelao grapes.  

Herdade Sao Miguel Colheita Seleccionada Tinto 2018 ($16). A blend of alicante bouschet, touriga nacional, syrah and cabernet sauvignon, this assemblage is well-integrated with red fruit character. Alicante bouschet, a cross between grenache and petit bouschet, is the most recognized red grape variety here. 

Herdade de Rocim Alicante Bouschet 2021 ($23).  All alicante bouschet from the Vidigueira region, this smooth wine has a floral bouquet with mature red fruit flavors and a dash of spice. 

Quinta da Fonte Souto Branco Portalegre Alentejo 2021 ($26). This Symington product has citrus and apple notes as well as a mid-palate creaminess that made a fine package. Mostly made from the renowned arinto grape. 

Quinta da Fonte Souto Red Portalegre Alentejo 2019 ($26). This is a skillful blend of alicante bouschet, syrah and alfrocheiro grapes. Big rich and elegant with berry fruit notes as well as hints of pepper, mocha, and licorice. Very impressive.  

Douro 

The wines from Portugual’s northern regions should also bear attention. We have been fans of port, fortified wines that came of age in the 1700s as trade with England required a stable wine that could survive a lengthy sea voyage. Dominating the port trade is the Symington Family owners, producers of Dow’s, Graham’s, Warre’s and Cockburn’s. But they also produce table wines from their estates in the Douro Valley and a new entry from the Portalegre region in Alentejo.  

Symington produces a value-oriented line of wines titled Vale do Bomfim. A red and white are available and are sourced from indigenous grapes from the Quinta do Bomfim vineyard which also is the source of grapes for their renowned vintage port. The Vale do Bomfim wines are priced at $15 per bottle which puts them squarely in bargain territory.      

The Vale do Bomfim DOC Douro White 2022 ($15) is crafted from indigenous white grapes and creates a quaffable balanced white wine with lemon and grapefruit notes that is similar to a well-made sauvignon blanc.  

The Vale do Bomfim DOC Douro Red 2020 ($15) is made from the same indigenous red varieties of grapes that make up their vintage port. This is a potential summer barbecue wine that would delight with a little chill. Cherry notes with an accent of black pepper make an easy to drink wine.  

Prats and Symington is a partnership with the Prats family of Bordeaux fame. Prazo de Roriz is produced by the group and is another value-oriented wine. We really enjoyed the Prazo de Roriz DOC Douro 2021 ($18) vinted from indigenous Portuguese grapes and made in an easy and ready to drink style. Cherry and raspberry notes dominate with a black pepper accent and should also make a nice summer sipper.  

We also like Prats and Symington’s Post Scriptum de Chryseia Douro 2021 ($28). This is the second wine to $100+ Chryseia and is very impressive. Very fresh and with less oak than the Chryseia this wine is drinking well now. Fresh berry and cherry notes dominate and make a very smooth drink.  

Wine picks 

Cantini Pellegrino Gazzerotta Nero d’Avola Sicilia 2021 ($23).  This simple wine with soft and bright red fruit character makes for a good sipper or a companion to pasta and grilled meats.   

Cloudy Bay Marlborough Pinot Noir 2021 ($43). This beauty displays fresh, rich blackberry and cherry notes with a hint of oak. If you like some of the pinot noirs from California, try this one.          

Col Solare Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain Washington State 2019 ($145). Created from a partnership between Marchesi Antinori and Chateau St. Michelle winery. This excellent red wine is crafted from 95 percent cabernet sauvignon and 5 percent cabernet franc grapes. Cassis and berry notes dominate with elements of eucalyptus and cedar. Very smooth and elegant. 

Does wine really have minerals in it?

March 25, 2024

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

A California wine producer recently recounted an experience in his tasting room that is humorous on its surface but ponderous underneath.  A young visitor was reading the tasting notes of a chardonnay and was intrigued.

“At what stage do they add the apricot juice?” she asked.

Of course, there is no apricot in wine – it just tastes like it. Pinot noir tastes like black cherries, old burgundies smell like a barn, chardonnay tastes like tropical fruit, and sauvignon blanc reminds one of freshy mowed grass. As absurd as some of these descriptors, they are handy in communicating what our brains perceive when we taste wine.

One of the most controversial descriptors of late is “minerality.” Chemists and professionals argue that you cannot taste mineral in a soil because a vineyard root sucks up water and there isn’t time for elements like potassium and zinc to flavor it. Yet we often see descriptors for wines from Chablis and Loire Valley like “wet stone,” “gunflint” and “chalk” as synonyms for “mineral.”  It is used for both the smell and taste of wines.

Champagne vineyards are known for their limestone soil and occasionally we will see a tasting note reflect the steely flavor of limestone. Same goes for many pinot noirs that smell of “forest floor” when the vineyards are no where near a forest.

The tasting notes we write reflect what we recall from our time in the kitchen or an orchard. A person who has never had a currant, for instance, is not likely to think of it when tasting a cabernet sauvignon. A person who does not know the difference between lavender and rosemary is not likely to use either one in describing a wine from Cotes du Rhone, yet these words summarize what the French call “garrigue.”

Wine descriptors are not just helpful in communication; they are also helpful in matching wine with food. The minerality typically found in Chablis, for instance, signals a good match with oysters and scallops. A wine with acidity offsets the fattiness of a steak. White wine is not associated with fish because of its color – it is because of its acidity and white fruit flavors that are a better match than red fruit and tannins found in red wines.

Here are five white wines commonly associated with minerality:

Domaine Drouhin Vaudon Chablis 2020 ($30). Grapefruit, citrus, dry and minerally.

Domaine Vacheron Sancerre 2019 ($45). Green apple, lemon rind, grapefruit and minerally.

Surrau “Branu” Vermetino di Gallura 2021 ($20).  Peach, lemon and minerals.

Inama “Carbonare Soave Classico 2020 ($30). Old vine Garganega grapes make this a unique wine with apple and pear notes and zesty acidity.

La Valentina Pecorino Colline Pescaresi 2021 ($18). Known more in U.S. for its cheese, pecorino also is known for its austere, steely wines with good acidity, citrus and melon notes.

Cool Australia

Australia’s cool regions produce some excellent chardonnays and pinots that won’t break the bank.  Here are a few we recently enjoyed:

Angove Chardonnay 2021 ($20). Produced from grapes grown in the Mount Lofty range east of McLaren Vale, this pure chardonnay has citrus and apple notes with a long finish.  We liked it because it wasn’t over-oaked and had good balance.

Yering Station Pinot Noir 2019 ($35).  From grapes grown in the oldest vineyard in Victoria, this Yarra Valley pinot noir is a steal.  The cool climate keeps this wine fresh and fruity with black cherry notes.

Mount Langhi Ghiran Billi Billi Shiraz 2021 ($16). From Victoria, the fruit for this shiraz produces lively and delicious black berry character with a hint of spice. Simple, yet delicious.

Pick up the spirit

We tasted two new spirits recently and were sufficiently impressed to record our impressions. Neft Vodka from Austria ($30-35 750ml) comes packaged in unbreakable white mini steel oil barrels and is distilled from rye. Austrian mountain spring water is added to adjust the proof to 80. The vodka is very clean with attractive fruity notes some spice, and a hint of vanilla.

We also tasted and enjoyed Drakes Organic Spiced Rum ($20 750ml) distilled from organically sourced Columbian sugar cane. Very expressive clove cinnamon, and butterscotch dominate with a hint of vanilla. Add this to cream for a great eggnog or simply enjoy straight or over ice.

Wine picks

Cockburn’s Special Reserve Port N/V ($24). Not overly sweet, this port is aged for 5 years in oak to produce an eminently drinkable port. Not overly complex this port features dark sweet cherry notes with a hint of mocha. Good value.                                   
Vara Garnacha Gold Label Vino Tinto Espanol 2020 ($34).  Vara was founded in 2012 in New Mexico but it wasn’t until recently its wines were nationally distributed. Its unique concept is to draw grapes across borders and blend them with grapes grown in the United States – a blend of culture and product. Artist Xavier Zamarripa and wine veteran Doug Diefenthaler recruited several established winemakers to craft special wines, including this delicious garnacha.  Blended with carinena, monastrell, mencia, and a little caberent sauvignon, merlot and syrah – all from various locations in Spain and California -- it is round with ripe cherry, red currant and raspberry notes with a floral nose and soft mouthfeel.

Priest Ranch Snake Oil 2019 ($110). The name comes from the cure-alls that were sold in Napa Valley in the 1800s.  This wine may not cure any of your ills, but it will put you in a good mood. From estate-grown cabernet sauvignon, it is classic Napa Valley.  Layers of blueberry and blackberry with a hint of mocha notes.

New Zealand’s pinot noirs worth a try

March 18, 2024

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           New Zealand’s recognition as a wine producing country has come a long way since its debut in U.S. wine markets in the mid-1980s.  The commercial wine industry in New Zealand had just yielded its first international success with the Cloudy Bay Winery’s sauvignon blanc from Marlborough. Since then, New Zealand has become synonymous with sauvignon blanc, and Marlborough is New Zealand’s dominant wine area with about 70 percent of the country’s total wine output.                                                                                                     

A good deal of New Zealand’s wine exports are sauvignon blanc table wines that are available at reasonable costs in the mid-teens. This price point -- and an over all drinkability -- has made these wines winners for consumers.

Citrus and grapefruit notes as well as herbal, grassy nuances are sauvignon blancs’ calling card here. Easy-to-find brands such as Kim Crawford, Brancott and Oyster Bay are household names among imbibers in the U.S.                                                 

Most of the many wines that we have reviewed are the more moderately priced sauvignon blancs. However, recently we tasted two current releases from Cloudy Bay that showed the new depths of New Zealand wines. 

The 2023 Cloudy Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($35) is priced a bit more than many New Zealand sauvignon blancs, but we believe it delivered the goods.  A very well-balanced wine, it featured a complex mélange of lemon and lime notes, bright refreshing acidity along with grass and melon elements.

Pinot noir is making a name for itself in the cooler climate of new Zealand and we have been impressed with several efforts that we have tasted. The 2021 Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir Marlborough ($43) is a wow. This beauty displays fresh, rich blackberry and cherry notes with a hint of oak. If you like some of the pinot noirs from California, then try this one.                                                                                                                               

Villa Maria Winery is another iconic New Zealand producer of Marlborough sauvignon blanc. Most of its production sells in the mid-teen range and offers good value. In addition, Villa Maria has produced a super-premium sauvignon blanc showcasing its touch with growing the grape in a non-traditional way. The 2021 Villa Maria Woven Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough ($50) was aged in 1-to-2-year-old French barrels of different types and further aged on its lees in stainless steel for 6 more months. Most New Zealand sauvignon blanc is only aged in stainless steel before release. The result of this special attention is a very complex and enjoyable wine with an herbal grassy nose followed by mineral, citrus and a hint of passion fruit in the mouth. The finish is creamy.

We also enjoyed Juggernaut from Marlborough.  The 2023 sauvignon blanc – the producer’s first -- has the classic bright acidity and grass aromas with grapefruit and lemon flavors.  From the Bogle Family Wine Colllection, it’s a great value at $16.

Alcohol ranked by state

The National Institute on Alcohol Abuse and Alcoholism has ranked each state according to the amount of wine consumed.  We suppose it’s an effort to show which states have the worst drinking problem, but those who live there may see it as a badge of honor.

California, a state with the most vineyards and tasting rooms, consumed the most wine.  In second place was Florida with Texas close behind.  These are populus states, so it is not surprising to see them atop the heap.  South Dakota, West Virginia and Wyoming held down the basement. Maryland was about in the middle of the pack.

When measured per capita, Washington, D.C., where lawmakers are literally wined and dined, consumed the most wine. Delaware was second. Maybe there is nothing else to do there.

Wine picks

Tapestry Paso Robles Red Blend 2021 ($25).  New to the Beaulieu Vineyard portfolio, this blend of cabernet sauvigon, syrah and petit syrah is classic Paso Robles.  Ripe and rich dark fruit flavors with distinctive mocha and chocolate notes with a dash of spice and cassis.  Full in the mouth and easy to drink. The label reflects the the flora and fauna common to the region.

Frank Family Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($60).  Some merlot, petit verdot and cabernet franc go into this well-structured and complex wine.  Broad aromas of floral, expresso, cedar and tobacco accent the rich dark berry fruit flavors.

Eleven Eleven Pinot Noir Sonoma County Russian River Valley Bacigalupi Vineyard 2019 ($65). Expensive but awesome, put this in the special occasion category. Cherry and plum notes with vanilla and spice notes in a beautiful fruity mélange.                                                                                             

Conde Valdemar Rioja Crianza 2018 ($20). This is an everyday pop and pour for a weekday meal. Berry fruit notes and no overbearing oak keeping this wine clean and refreshing.

Duca di Salaparuta Duca Enrico Nero D’Avola Sicilia DOC 2018 ($50-60). One of the best red wines that we have recently tasted from Sicily. The wine presents a bold expression of berry and plum notes with a hint of vanilla and sweet oak.          

Some unusual gems from Italy

March 11, 2024

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Italy, the largest wine producing country in the world, is the home to a plethora of grape varieties. The Italian government has authorized more than 350 grape varieties for commercial grape production out of about 500 varieties grown there. Compare this to the second largest grape growing country in the world (France), where about only 60 grape varieties are commercially grown.  

Two of the more obscure red Italian grape varieties are lagrein and schiava. Mention these grapes to most wine consumers, even Italian wine aficionados, and you can expect a blank stare in return. Grown in Trentino in northeastern Italy, this area is better known for the ubiquitous usually bargain priced slaker of thirsts, pinot grigio. This cool climate growing area lies hard against the Dolomite and Alps mountain ranges. Although the majority of residents speak Italian, fully a third speak German due to the region’s former pre-war Austrian government.  

Schiava grapes produce a lighter style of red more akin to pinot noir than cabernet sauvignon, while lagrein yields a more fruity wine akin to syrah.  

Following are our tasting notes:  

Abbazia Di Novacella Schiava Alto Adige 2022 ($20-25). This light-colored red wine exhibited a light ruby color. Very much in the style of a pinot noir but with more acidity. No oak all stainless steel. A spicy nose with cherry motes and a hint of cedar. Delicious!  

Tramin Schiava Suditrol Alto Adige DOC 2021 ($20-25). Very light in color almost like a dark rose. Notes of pomegranate dominate with bracing, palate-cleansing acidity in this wine aged in stainless steel. Colterenzio Lagrein Suditrol Alto Adige DOC 2021 ($22-25). This wine displays a plum nose with dried cherries and pomegranate notes on the palate. Soft tannins and a very pleasant mouth feel. Elena Walch Vigna Castel Ringberg Riserva Alto Adige ($55-60). A hint of flowers with ripe black cherries. Very full and rich. Our favorite but it isn’t fair to compare a riserva with a non riserva  

Exploring Italy we keep discovering odd bits of wine trivia as we taste its wines.  Recently, we came across another wine region that produces wines worth considering.  

Nestled in southern Tuscany immediately below Montalcino lies Monteccuco. It doesn’t even show up on many wine maps of the region. Maybe that is because it was only recognized in 1998 as a DOC and achieved DOCG status in 2011. Sangiovese, as in most of Tuscany, is the star here and proved to us that it is worthy of recognition. Vineyards here only produce about 3 tons per acre and grow in volcanic soils from an ancient eruption.  

These wines can be hard to source. However, we believe they are worthy of consideration due to their mostly modest pricing and distinctive quality.  

We recently tasted three wines from this region. The first was a Montecucco Rosso the Poggio Stenti Montecucco Rosso DOC 2021 ($15-18). Montecucco Rosso must contain at least 60 percent sangiovese grapes. This example is also blended with a bit of cabernet sauvignon and aged in stainless steel tanks. The result is a delicious black cherry elixir that is just plain fun to drink.  

The La Banditaccia Vigna Allegra Riserva Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2018 ($20-25) was a classic Tuscan wine with dried cherry notes and a hint of cedar in the finish. Aged in large Slavonian wood casks for 14 months, it is somewhat reminiscent of a good quality Rioja reserva.  

Our favorite of the trio was the Cartacanta Basile Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2018 ($15-20). This wine featured less wood than the La Banditaccia, presenting ripe cherry notes in a delicious fresh package. A great value. 

Other Italian gems 

Sallier de la Tour Nero d’Avola Sicily 2020 (($16). Nero d’Avola rules Sicily and this one has fresh red fruit character with a dose of licorice and spice. Its firm tannins make in an inexpensive choice to serve alongside beef and other grilled meats. 

Surrau Isola dei Nuraghi IGT 2020 ($27).  From Sardina, this eclectic blend of indigenous grapes offers a a medium-bodied, fruity wine with bright red fruit character. Included in the blend is cannonau, muristellu and carignano grapes.  Very unique and pleasant. 

Tenuta Regaleali Lamuri Nero d’Avola DOC 2019 ($21).  This wine from Tasca Conti d’Almerita is a classic expression of Sicily’s top indigenous grape.  Soft tannins, good balance, and loads of accessible dark fruit flavors with an earthy feel. Delicious to drink on its own or to pair with a meat-based pasta. 

Sodale Merlot Cotarella IGP Lazio 2020 ($25-30). We really enjoyed this very soft expression of merlot from the region around Rome. A very enjoyable table wine featuring cherry and berry notes with very soft tannins.                       

Wine picks 

El Coto Coto de Imaz Reserva Rioja 2018 ($20-25). 100 percent tempranillo grapes this red wine balances that knife edge of oak and fruit that some Riojas get wrong. Ripe plums and cherries with a hint of mocha makes for a terrific drink.  

Goosecross State Lane Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($90). This albeit expensive red wine delivers. A total package that offers cassis, black cherry, and a hint of mocha satisfies. Fantastic!  

Decoy Red Blend Limited Alexander Valley 2021 ($30).  The merlot and cabernet sauvignon come together nicely in this smooth and rich blend from a top growing region for Bordeaux grape varieties. The merlot rounds off the cabernet tannins. Effusive aromas of cherry, clove and cinnamon hand off to ripe blackberry and black cherry flavors.  

Local people make it big in California wine

March 4, 2024

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

If you’re a parent, you have probably worried when a son or daughter chucked a four-year degree in science to strike out for something fun.  Perhaps your beloved child wanted to tour Europe for a year, become a tennis coach or just surf a California beach before getting serious about a career.   

For some, the fun choice – and the career choice -- was wine.  

Over the years, we have found a few people in the Annapolis area who have either abandoned a promising career to pursue winemaking or match their skills as artists to create labels for wine producers. 

Mark Davis, for instance, graduated from the University of Maryland with a degree in chemical engineering. He found a good government job shortly after that, but grew bored of it pretty quickly.  His interest in chemistry provoked him to make wine in his parents’ house in Bowie – he said it wasn’t very good but the fermentation experiment encouraged him to strike out for California. He did an internship at a small facility, which was satisfying enough to provoke him to apply to University of California at Davis. Two years later he was participating in harvests all over Napa Valley. 

Promoted to winemaker in 2021 at O’Brien Estate winery in Oak Knoll, he had the ability to make wine under his own label.  He borrowed money from his parents to buy a half ton of grapes and he was off and running.  His label is Cobden Wini – a play off his parents’ middle names. If you’re going to abandon four years of engineering skills and your parents fund your dream, it’s a homage worth paying, right? 

Today, the Maryland native makes about 600 cases at a custom crush facility using grapes from Russian River Valley, Oakville and Sierra Foothills.  He loves pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon, but he makes wines using other grape varieties for a handful of interested labels. His wife works with him. 

He sells most of his product directly to consumer from his web site or from a tasting room.  His web site is www.cobdenwini.com. 

His wines are getting good reviews from major wine publications. 

Mark’s mother, Mary Davis, lives in Annapolis.  

He isn’t the only local high school graduate to become interested in wine.  

Elena Capousis, a graduate of Annapolis High School and daughter of Heidi and Nicholas Capousis, stopped in Paso Robles on a West Coast visit and came upon Vailia From, owner and winemaker at Desparada. From offered Elena a job during the pandemic despite her lack of wine experience. She stayed for a harvest and was then offered another position that capitalized on her art education. Pretty soon she was on a team designing labels. She also helps with the harvest. 

She said her father, who is a good friend of ours, gave her an appreciation for wine – to respect it and for the stories it can tell. He lives in Naples; her mother lives in Richmond. 

But Elena was also drawn to Desparada because of its use of terracotta amphora imported from Italy.  A potter herself, Elena was intrigued by the impact these clay vessels can have on a wine’s evolution. 

She wrote to us in an email, “Winemaking is fascinating. It’s an intersection of science, craft, art and a little sprinkle of magic. I was able to draw a lot of parallels between winemaking and ceramics – both very alchemical and physical art forms that require meticulous attention to detail.” 

Her label graced the 2021 Desparada Vela Sauvignon Blanc from the Chelle Mountain Vineyard – a wine that scored an amazing 97 points from the Wine Advocate. We had to get our hands on the wine from an internet source and we’re thankful we did. It is a well-balanced and elegant sauvignon blanc with a lot of dimension and character. 

Elena said label art for each bottle comes from a group brainstorming session in which participants are encouraged to doodle what they feel when they drink the wine. Historically, they have chosen illustrations of women from old French paintings, but lately the focus has been a celebration of more figures and forms. 

For more information, see www.desparada.com. 

Jeff Baker, son of Mary Lou Baker of Annapolis, is also a label designer.  He has done labels for Kosta Browne, one of the most respectable wine producers of California pinot noir. 

Wine picks 

Tenuta Frescobaldi Castiglioni Toscana IGT 2018 ($26).  This was a recent crowd favorite at a party.  A blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and the local sangiovese, it bursts with blackberry flavors with layers of licorice, cloves and black pepper.   

Binomio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC 2019 ($52).  A partnership of Inama and La Valentina, this beautifully textured wine uses an unusual clone of montepulciano to achieve a rustic quality and concentrated red grape flavors.  

J.Lohr Flume Crossing Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($14). This is one of the most pleasurable and different sauvignon blancs we have tasted in a long time. Aged 30 percent in neutral acacia barrels, it offers a less acidic and tart personality than many of its competitors – it certainly isn’t for those who love their New Zealand sauvignon blancs. Classic grapefruit and citrus notes, but there is also a dash of spice and a load of palate richness. 

Bracaia Il Tre 2021 ($25). There is nothing complicated in this Tuscany blend of sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon – but, oh, what a pleasurable quaff to sip or share with a burger or slice of pizza.  Lots of red fruit and mulberry flavors. 

You can afford Bordeaux with these choices

February 26, 2024

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Red Bordeaux wines are often considered to be too costly. Prices for some of the top tier of Bordeaux wines make headlines usually focused on first growth grand crus, such as Chateaux Lafite Rothschild or Chateau Margaux. Today more than 7,000 chateaus produce wine in Bordeaux even though only 61 were included in the 1855 classification of grand crus. Although many of the classified growths can be expensive, thousands of them are not. The average consumer can afford Bordeaux. Bordeaux’s 57 appellations produce more appellation controlee wines than any other wine growing area in France. A plethora of wines from these many non-grand crus are available in the U.S. and savvy consumers can find high quality, relatively low-cost enjoyment. Labels for these value-oriented wines vary, but in general look for Bordeaux, Bordeaux Superior, Cotes De Bordeaux or simply Medoc.  

Historically, only six red grapes were allowed in Bordeaux red wines. Cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc make up 89 percent of the grapes cultivated. Merlot dominates at 66 percent. Petite verdot, malbec and carmenere round out the group. But in the last couple of years new, heat- and disease-resistant grape varieties were introduced to accommodate climate changes.  

Recently, we tasted three red Bordeauxs from the excellent 2018 vintage. The three spanned both banks of the Gironde estuary and were constituted with different grape combinations to offer an interesting glimpse of the region. All were typical of our past tastings of moderately priced Bordeaux and confirmed our belief in their terrific price value. Chateau de Panigon Medoc 2018 ($20). Almost an equal split between cabernet sauvignon and merlot with a dash of petite verdot, this wine showed more structure and was a bit reticent – maybe because of its significant use of cabernet sauvignon. Cherry and black currant notes, soft tannins suggest improvement with a little aging.  

Chateau Hyot Cotes de Bordeaux Castillon 2018 ($15). Cotes de Bordeaux Castillon abuts St. Emilion and uses a similar mix of grapes. Mostly merlot with a bit of cabernet franc, this wine displays bright cherry notes with a slight floral note.  

Chateau de Ribebon Bordeaux Superior 2018 ($15). This is another Right Bank offering with plum and cherry elements and a hint of leather.  Composed of 80 percent cabernet franc, this wine was our favorite. 

Here are two other inexpensive Bordeaux from the current 2019 vintage:       

Madame de Beaucaillou 2019 ($25). Using grapes entirely from the Haut-Medoc, this wine from Ducru-Beaucaillou has spirited fresh cherry and currant flavors. 

Margaux de Brane 2019 ($25). From Henri Lurton of Brane-Catenac, this vibrant, merlot-driven wine has youthful red fruit character and worth every penny. 

Dough Wines  

Dough Wines is a part of the Distinguished Wines’ collection assembed by several wine growers that includes Markham, Argyle, MacRostie and Textbook. We were unfamiliar with the reasonably priced Dough Wines brand but excited to share our impression.  

Dough Wines Chardonnay North Coast, California 2020 ($18). This is a very well-made balanced chardonnay featuring pineapple and citrus notes and a hint of spice. Very reasonably priced.  

Dough Wines Pinot Noir Oregon 2021 ($22). A beautifully crafted Oregon pinot noir that offers a bit more fruit than many pinot noirs. Sweet and tart cherries are balanced in this friendly wine.  

Dough Wines Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast California 2019 ($22). This wine features a cornucopia of fruit notes. Cherry, berry, plum and even a hint of mocha all combines to create a very drinkable wine. 

Wine picks 

Argle Spirit Hill Vineyard Blanc de Noirs 2019 ($60).  Composed of 85 percent pinot noir and 15 percent pinot meunier, this sparkling wine from one of the most respected producers in the Willamette Valley scores big with freshness and depth.  Aged entirage for 43 months, it has a lot of boldness with bright cherry and grapefruit flavors and a hint of spice.   

Yalumba The Y Series Pinot Noir South Australia 2022 ($15). A nice surprise from Australia that’s not known for its pinot noir production. Strawberry with a bit of cranberry is present with very soft tannins. A bigger style of pinot noir than many but a very pleasing package.  

Anakena Nuna Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Chile 2020 ($12-15). A terrific value for the quality of this fine wine. A very serious wine that proffers plum and cherry notes and easy drinking moderate tannins. 

Gaja Sito Moresco Langhe 2019 ($55). Everything Angelo Gaja touches turns to gold and this simple yet serious nebbiolo from Piedmont sports cherry and raspberry flavors. 

Poggio al Tesoro Sondraia Bolgheri Superiore 2019 ($90). Who says Italian wine producers can’t make great wine using the noble grapes of France? This blend of cabernet sauvignon (65 percent), merlot and cabernet franc show off youthful, bright dark fruit with richness and complexity.  It will age for another decade but tastes great now with beef. 

MacRostie Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2022 ($38). This reasonably priced pinot noir is nice to just sip by itself, but its generous black cherry, plum and cranberry notes give it great depth to match with a wide range of foods. 

Miraval Provence Rosé 2022 ($21). Despite the acrimoniously split between Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt that engulfed this estate, the Miraval continues to outperform in the rosé category. A lively blend of cinsault, grenache, syrah and rolle, this juicy wine has copious citrus the strawberry notes. 

Chateau St. Jean Los Carneros Chardonay 2021 ($43). The cool winds off San Pablo Bay provides a long and improved growing season for chardonnays from the Carneros. We enjoy them for their richness and elegance but also for this one’s tropical fruit mineral flavors. 

Coming up with the right words to describe a wine

February 19, 2024

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

When we began to seriously taste wines in the 1980s we found ourselves grasping for descriptors. We understood elements like tannin and body, but the difference between cranberry and cherry eluded us. It turns out we weren’t the only ones swirling wine in our glasses and struggling for the right words to describe it. 

Not until the 1970s did wine tasters, including wine makers, derive a system to put to paper what the palate was telling us.  Ann Noble, now a legend in creating a wine aroma wheel, realized the need for a wine lexicon while teaching a class at University of California at Davis. Few students were able to express what was in the glass, so she listed more than a hundred items in the house that could offer help. Most of these descriptors involved food. From there, she developed the ubiquitous wheel that narrows the decision from, say, stone fruit to white peach.  We used the wheel a lot in our early years, but there were descriptors like quince and red currants we could not pick up because we never tasted them. 

Anyone who wants to be able to describe a wine needs to spend time in the kitchen.  We knew one professional who asked her daughter to pick a dried herb and let her smell it while she closed her eyes and tried to recognize it. It was a terrific method to identify rosemary, sage, thyme, basil and other herbs commonly found in wine.  The same goes for fruit – can you blindly distinguish between an apricot and a peach without tasting them? What about a red cherry from a black cherry?  

Wine enthusiasts often ask, for instance, if the olive flavor in a cabernet sauvignon means olives were added. We know that sounds stupid, but the question lends to the confusion of how a wine made from grapes can taste of olives.  The general explanation is that the flavor reminds us of olives because that is what our palates have recorded over the years. 

We have a friend who worked around trucks who couldn’t describe wine if his life depended on it, but he guessed right when he said an Alsace riesling smelled of petrol.  Diesel fuel was part of his daily life. 

In more recent years professional wine tasters have found that there is actually a science to some of these terms. In other words, there sometimes are chemicals that are shared by wine and fruit or vegetable. That petrol smell, in fact, is a chemical compound called TDN. 

Perhaps a better example is pyrazines, a class of compounds commonly found in plant-based foods, particularly green pepper and bell pepper. They explain why some cabernet sauvignons are often described as having a bell pepper flavor. Pyrazines are in grape skins as well. Once considered a flaw, many people like the additional layer of flavors in moderation.  

We happen to like a particular cru bourgeois from Bordeaux that is known for its green pepper notes, but some critics consider it a flaw. 

Scientists have found other compounds that help explain why a wine smells or tastes a certain way.  For instance, we often find vanilla in oaked chardonnay and freshly mowed grass in the aromas of New Zealand sauvignon blanc. It turns out those elements come from aldehydes. 

There also are additives intended to mask a wine’s flaw that in turn introduce new flavors that are not natural to the grape. You probably like that cheap red wine because the wine producer has added Mega Purple or another grape concentrate that makes a wine smooth and sweet. Its dials back raging acidity and underripe grapes, plus it appeals to America’s Coca-Cola palate.  It is estimated that every botte costing less than $20 have been laced with grape concentrate.  That’s what allows big producers to make an appealing wine without the added expense of choosing only the best grapes and fermenting them in expensive oak barrels. But you won’t find this on the label or in the winemaker’s tasting notes. 

You don’t have to be a scientist to enjoy wine, of course.  Many of you don’t want to bother with descriptions. But those of you who enjoy the challenge should experiment if you want to learn more.  See if you can pick a cheap chardonnay from an expensive one. Smell a sprig of rosemary and see if you can pick up the herb. It’s the best way to learn. 

St. Supery 

St. Supery has been producing remarkable wines in Napa Valley for decades.  We particularly like its sauvignon blancs which take this grape variety to a new level.  But we also enjoy the red wines from this producer.  Here are a few we recently tried: 

St. Supery Dollarhide Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($40). Creamier on the palate than most sauvignon blancs, this perennial favorite of ours has varietal grapefruit and citrus notes but with a dollop of pear to give it more dimension. 

St. Supery Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($58). Blackberry, raspberry and plum notes with a dash of oak and black pepper. 

St. Supery Rutherford Merlot 2019 ($70). Classic plum notes with interesting hints of cocoa powder, pepper and dried herbs. 

Wine picks 

Trivento White Malbec 2023 ($11).  Wow, this was a nice surprise. You probably have tasted red malbec from Argentina, but this is a bold experiment in using the grape to make a white wine. By picking the grapes early to retain acidity and pressing them immediately to avoid skin contact, the wine is clear. This wine is tart, crisp and remarkable for its green apple flavor with a touch of effervescence. 

Binomio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC Riserva 2019 ($52). We loved this dense, concentrated and delicious gem made from an ancient biotype of montepulciano called the “Africa clone.” Ripe dark fruit flavors are easy to enjoy now, but this wine can age. 

Canvasback Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($44). Napa Valley’s Duckhorn added this Washington state property to its impressive portfolio in 2012.  Winemaker Joseph Czarny has crafted a powerful wine with firm tannins and complexity from mountain fruit. Merlot and malbec are blended with 82 percent cabernet sauvignon to form a bordeaux-esque blend with plum and black cherry flavors and hints of spice, mineral and black currants. 

More to southern Rhone than Chateauneuf du Pape

February 12, 2024

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Most people who think of southern Rhone Valley think first of Chateauneuf du Pape, but for us we think first of the eight other crus that represent better values. Don’t get us wrong: we have collected Chateauneuf du Papes for decades and are still drinking the fabulous 2007s.  But for current drinking, we turn to the wines from Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Rasteau and Cotes du Rhone. 

Southern Rhone is mostly flat, but the wines from Gigondas are from vineyards on a slope as high as 1,000 feet, which provides the grapes a longer maturation period. These regions often have the same galets roules – smooth quartzite rocks left over from Alpine glaciers that blanket the top soil. Growing anything in this seemingly impenetrable soil seems improbable, but beneath this layer is a combination of limestone, clay and sand that forces the vines to squeeze between the rock. The result is an intense red wine from 100-year-old vines that drill deep for water. 

Chateauneuf du Pape wasn’t an appellation until 1936 and everything else was labeled Cotes du Rhone. Eventually, the other crus were created when producers argued they had unique characteristics. Cairanne was the last appellation created in 2016.  

The wines from Gigondas have risen in stature over the past decade and for good reason.  Their quality is much better because producers are focused on getting the most from the terroir.  Prices accordingly have risen as well, but there are still values to be found when you compare them to the prices of Chateauneuf du Pape. 

While the wines from the more respected Chateauneuf du Pape region rely on 19 grapes varieties, those from the other appellations are focused primarily on grenache noir, syrah and mourvedre.  They are more peasant-like – bistro wines that go well with hamburgers, pizzas, barbecued foods and pasta.  Despite that easy-to-drink image, we recently tasted several full-bodied wines from the various crus that can stand up to beef and hearty stews.  For comparison, we tasted them alongside Chateauneuf du Papes from the same vintage.   

These wines are generally heady with alcohol levels over 15 percent, so drinker beware. 

Here are several of the wines we really enjoyed: 

Domaine de la Charbonniere Vacqueyras 2020 ($25). From a producer in its fourth generation, this blend of 60 percent grenache and 40 percent syrah is medium bodied with rich blackberry, cassis and black cherry notes, a good dose of spice and a brambly mouthfeel. 

Domaine de las Charbonniere Chateauneuf du Pape 2018 ($37).  Elegant in style, this silky blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre has blackberry and blueberry notes with a dash of classic licorice. It’s one of the best values we’ve seen from this appellation. 

Domaine des Bosquets La Colline Gigondas 2018 ($70).  Gigondas, once considered a poor man’s Chateauneuf du Pape, is probably our favorite southern Rhone appellation. Very big with fine tannins and durability, this exotic all-grenache has cassis, strawberry and blackberry fruit with a hint of plums and herbs.  You can easily pair this wine with a hearty winter stew. 

Domaine Mordoree Lirac Dame Rousse 2019 ($30). An even blend of grenache and syrah, this blend from the Lirac appellation sports rich and yummy raspberry and cassis flavors. 

Brusset Rasteau la Bastide 2020 ($30).  Mourvedre plays a strong supporting role to the grenache in this balanced and medium-bodied wine from the Rasteau appellation just north of Gigondas. Earthy with dark fruit and reduced balsamic notes and a hint of herbs. Light enough to go with burgers, pizza or just by itself – but not big enough to pair with beef. 

Pierre Amadieu Romane Machotte Gigondas 2019 ($30). This reasonably priced wine has a garrigue feel – wild, hillside herbs of lavender, thyme, rosemary, juniper and sage. A blend of grenache and syrah, its fine tannins cloak a palate splash of strawberry and black cherry flavors with a spicy and black pepper finish. 

Domaine de la Janasse Les Garrigue Cotes du Rhone 2018 ($52).  Fermented in concrete vats and aged in large foudres, this exemplary wine from a broad area rises above the common $15 versions. The producer uses only grenache grapes to create a full-bodied, rich wine with a very floral bouquet and loads of blackberry and licorice flavors.  

Domaine Santa Duc Les Aubes Vacqueyras 2018 ($32).  From one of our favorite Rhone producers, this wine is 80 percent grenache and 20 percent syrah.  Juicy black cherry and plum flavors with hints of black pepper and licorice. A nice earthy touch reflects the terroir. 

Domaine Oratoire St. Martin Reserve des Seigneurs Cairanne 2019 ($25). Not to be confused with the grape variety that carries a similar name, Cairanne is its own appellation. Ten generations of the Alary family have been making wine here for centuries. A blend of grenache and syrah, it has generous violet aromas and black fruit flavors. Very approachable and delicious. 

St. Cosme Cotes Rhone 2022 ($21).  We love everything this producer makes. Even at this introductory level, the Cotes du Rhone exhibits complexity and depth with raspberry and blackberry notes.  While most wines from this cru are blends, this one is made exclusively from syrah grapes. 

Mont-Redon Lirac 2020 ($29).  One of Tom’s most memorable vineyard tours was with the Abeille family at Mont-Redon in the late 1980s. Walking between the vines and over the formidable river pebbles that covered the surface, you get a feel for what makes the red blends from Lirac so delicious.  The vines struggle through the rock to extract the nutrients and water to produce its red fruit and spicy profile. It is a blend of syrah, grenache and mourvedre. 

Wine picks 

Ancient Peaks Oyster Ridge Santa Margarita Ranch 2020 ($60).  One of two of the producer’s excellent wines packaged in lighter bottles, this blend rocks. Cabernet sauvignon (75 percent) joins cabernet franc, petit verdot, merlot and malbec for a smooth palate ride. Plum and chocolate aromas mingle with black cherry and blueberry flavors laced with caramel, truffles and earth.   

Cliff Edge Shiraz 2021 ($27). This robust shiraz from the Mount Lange  
Ghiran region of Victoria, Australia, has fresh cherry and raspberry flavors with a hint of clove and black pepper. Fine tannins.  

Riva Leone Gavi DOCG 2021 ($15).  We loved the simplicity of this all-cortese white wine from an underrated region of Italy.  Its pear and citrus notes mingle with the crisp acidity to make a nice sipper or a complement to seafood dishes. 

Wines to celebrate Valentine’s Day with love

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

The time is drawing nigh to make a plan for Valentine’s Day.  Don’t mess this up. Your option is to have a restaurant do all the cooking for you – at a price – or do it yourself at home.  

We opt for an intimate dinner around our table with our wives when we both cook a dinner that can range from seafood to beef.  Whatever money we save from the restaurant tab we put into the wine. 

If you plan to spend Valentine’s Day at home, there are plenty of wine options to make it a special occasion. You can start with champagne or sparkling wine to enjoy while preparing the meal and then move to a luxurious chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon.   

This year we asked wine producers to pair a wine we have tasted with a dish that would bring out the best qualities of the wine. Maybe their suggestions will give you some ideas for your special dinner. 

Codorniu Cava Ars Collecta Blanc de Blancs Reserva Brut 2020 ($19). Consumers are finally waking up to the value of inexpensive sparkling wine from Spain.  This brut from a reputable producer shows off a creamy texture and hints of peach and nectarine.  Producer’s recommendation: “Sushi, risotta and seafood dishes.” 

Laurent-Perrier Cuvee Rosé ($99).  This exquisite rosé champagne doesn’t get any better. Made entirely from pinot noir grapes from 10 different crus, it has an elegant mouthfeel with raspberry and strawberry notes.  It would be a classy addition to the Valentine’s Day table.  Producer’s food recommendation: “A pairing of raw seafood, grilled prawns, exotic dishes, Indian of Asian food.” 

Allegrini Amarone 2019 ($104).  Nothing says romance more than an Italian amarone. It is a combination of luxury and power, making it a nice match with serious food dishes.  Cherry flavors dominate with a touch of raisin and chocolate. Producer’s food recommendation: “This wine is made through the traditional appassimento method – a controlled drying method of the grapes that lasts for about 100 days – which brings out the aromatic intensity of dark fruit. This intensity makes this an ideal wine to pair with hearty dishes, and the unique complexity calls for something beyond the standard roasted beef. Try pairing this wine with game meat, like a roasted duck with a plum sauce.” 

Tenuta Regaleali Lamuri Nero D’Avola 2019 ($21). Made from nero d’avola grapes grown in hillside vineyards in Sicily, this wine has a soft touch that would go well with pasta. Herbal aromas start a palate journey that ends with plum and dark fruit flavors with a dash of chocolate. Producer’s recommendation: “Capretto al Forno (roasted goat) as the notes of cherry will complement the richness of the meat. The flavor profile will also balance out the intensity of the meat. Or you can substitute lamb.” (email us for recipe!). 

Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2022 ($25). It’s hard to find a decent red blend for less than $50. This one from Italy has cherry, olive, anise and kirsch notes. Producer’s recommendation: “Sirloin steak and garlic mashed potatoes.” 

J Vineyards Sparkling Brut Rosé ($50).  There’s nothing like splashing some red into the celebration and this perennial favorite works nicely as a sipper or with dinner. Raspberry notes and crisp acidity. Producer’s food recommendation: “This wine’s lively acidity and steely minerality lend it to a more unexpected pairing. Try this wine with a seafood paella, with a hint of spice to accentuates the wine’s crisp bubbles.” 

Donum “Year of the Ox” Carneros Pinot Noir 2021 ($95).  This extraordinary and complex pinot noir from Carneros would occupy a special place on the table with its layers of black and red fruit, spice and finish. Producer’s recommendation: “Pappardelle and black trumpet mushroom pasta. This includes pecorino romano, black trumpet mushrooms, garlic, lemon and olive oil. Black truffle can be substituted for an extra touch.” 

And here are some inexpensive choices with our own recommendations: 

Ancient Peaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($25). A very good value, this sturdy Paso Robles wine has generous black fruit and olive aromas, black cherry and red currant flavors, and hints of mint and vanilla. A good wine to serve alongside steak or pasta bolognese. 

Ameri Malbec 2020 ($37). From the makers of Domaine Bousquet, this upscale and certified-organic malbec from Argentina hits all the high notes. Using grapes from a single vineyard, it has dense plum and dark fruit flavors. A nice match to lamb, pasta and even beef. 

Benziger Family Chardonnay 2021 ($16).  This chardonnay is a winner for the price year after year. Ripe pear and tropical fruit notes with balanced acidity.  It would do well with lobster, fish and scallops. 

Wine picks 

Tenuta di Capezzana Villa di Capezzana di Carmignano DOCG 2019 ($32). Delicious is the first word to come from mind with this bold of sangiovese (80 percent) and cabernet sauvi9gnon.  Carmignano actually requires that a small amount of cabernet sauvignon be present in the blend.  Talk about a turn in philoosphy from the time Italians insisted only indigenous grapes be used! A proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove, this wine exudes bright dark berry flavors.  

Beaulieu Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($38).  One of the best values in the market for Napa Valley, this beautiful and layered wine offers forward strawberry and black cherry flavors with nuances ranging from the classic mint to cocoa. 

Amulet Estate “AE” Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($85). An introduction to the producer’s single-vineyard cabernet sauvignons, this wine had both breadth and depth. Black cherry, forest floor and herbal aromas give way to a lush array of plum, black cherry and leather notes.  

Luxury wines from Argentina

January 29, 2024

 By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Last week we wrote about our experiences tasting some of the value oriented red and white wines from Argentina that are common on retailers’ shelves. Argentina also produces a number of higher priced premium wines that can compete with the best from around the world.  

Argentina has an extraordinarily long series of wine growing regions that stretch from the north in Salta to the south in Patagonia, a distance of over 1,200 miles. Virtually all of the export quality wines, produced in this north/south area hugging the Andes Mountains, grow in eroded soils from the peaks. The area enjoys significant diurnal temperature swings -- important for grape growing -- and a very arid climate that keeps pests and diseases at bay.  

We recently tasted a selection of both red and white top shelf wines and were favorably impressed with the results. Following are our impressions. Trapiche Gran Medalla Chardonnay Mendoza 2020 ($35-40). A very nice chardonnay featuring citrus and apple notes with a bit of cream in the finish.  

Vina Cobos Vinculum Chardonnay Mendoza 2019 ($55). This is a project of Paul Hobbs. The California influence comes out in the lovely big tropical fruit notes, a hint of light toasty oak. and a bit of lemon. Our favorite of the whites.  

Otronia No. 3 & No. 6 Chardonnay Patagonia 2019 ($90). The Patagonian cool climate shows in the mineral driven apple and citrus notes in this wine.  

Achaval Ferrer Quimera Mendoza 2019 ($40). This wine was extremely impressive, especially considering its reasonable price. An impressive blend of 59 percent malbec is melded with the four other classic red Bordeaux varietals and is unfined and unfiltered. With very low yields of only 1.3 tons per acre, it is a viscous intense wine featuring ripe plum and blackberry notes in a soft tannin robe. Our favorite of the red wine group. Alta Visa Single Vineyard Albaneve Campo De Los Andes Valle De Uco Malbec 2018 ($50). A delightful wine made from 100 percent malbec grapes and aged in all French oak. Mostly plum and cherry with a wee hint of vanilla.  

Fabre Montmayou Grandvin Partida Limitada Red Wine Luhan De Cuyo 2019 ($54). Mostly malbec with a touch of cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Aged in French oak this wine presents a very smooth experience with plum and vanilla notes. Very easy to quaff.  

Otronia No. 1 Pinot Noir Patagonia 2019 ($90). Grown in the extremely cool-climate Patagonia region in south Argentina. Estate bottled using organic grapes, this pinot noir makes a bold lively impression on the palate of ripe and sour cherries.  

Susana Balbo Nosotros Single Vineyard Nomade Malbec Valle De Uco Mendoza 2018 ($125). Okay, so this was our actual favorite of the reds, but the price was a bit off-putting. This is an outstanding wine that can compete with some of the best of Napa Valley. Aromas and tastes of plum, cherry, and cedar create a fantastic hedonistic experience. Aged in mostly new French oak for over a year. A truly great wine. 

Trentodoc sparklers 

While discussing sparkling wine with wine lovers, most consumers can reel off champagne, cava, prosecco and a variety of domestic producers.  If you mention Trentodoc, you’re likely to garner a blank stare. Given the paucity of selections available in the U.S., this sparkling wine producer in the northeastern region of Italy has earned its reputation for obscurity. Before World War I this mountainous region was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Following the war Italy achieved dominion over the area.  

Only white and rosé sparkling wine are produced in this appellation. Sparkling wine is produced from the same grapes used to make French champagne and uses the same production process. The result is remarkably high-quality sparkling wine that in some cases compares favorably with the French version. Only about 2,800 acres produce grapes in Trentodoc to make their sparkling wine and remarkably 80 percent of their production is consumed in Italy.  

We recently tasted 3 rosés from the region to familiarize our palates with this sparkling wine to assess for ourselves whether consumers should seek out this hard-to- find wine.  

Our two favorites were the 2016 Rotari Trentodoc Rosé ($25) which is 75 percent pinot noir and 15 percent chardonnay. The sparkler presented a yeasty bready nose with strawberry and cherry flavors. A bright very complete wine.  

Next was the Ferrari Trentodoc Brut Rosé N/V ($35-40). Made from 60 percent pinot noir and 40 percent chardonnay. Again, the appealing yeasty nose with creamy berry notes. A very nice sparkler that is easy to drink.  

Wine picks 

True Myth San Luis Obispo Coast Pinot Noir 2022 ($28). This Central Coast region was named an AVA just last year.  This quaffable and reasonably priced version has classic cherry juicy strawberry flavors with a dash of spice. 

San Salvatore Elea 2008 Campania 2018 ($20).  Most of this Italian wine from Campania is fermented in stainless steel to preserve the freshness of the greco grape. Blessed by the maritime influences of the Med, it has stone fruit and olive notes with a thread of minerality. 

Bodegas Alto Moncayo Garnacha 2020 ($50).   We were stunned by the depth of this all garnacha from Campo de Borja, Spain.  Using grapes from old vines, it has jammy strawberry and black cherry flavors with a lot of spice and pepper to keep it interesting. 

Cormorant Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($24). After spending 12 years at Fetzer, Charlie Gilmore launched his own label in 2018. Using organically grown grapes, he has created a balanced, pure and intense sauvignon blanc without the mouth-puckering grassy and grapefruit notes. White peach, citrus and ginger notes make is delicious. 

Chalmers Felicitas 2019 ($42).  The Victoria region of Australian is getting some traction as new wines emerge on the American market.  This sparkling wine, made entirely of the grape fiano, is stunning.  We just didn’t expect to find something so fresh and tasty from a grape variety indigenous to Italy. Good acidity and notes of apples. 

Cheap wines from Argentina; Penfolds new lne

January 22, 2024

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Argentina produces terrific wines at reasonable prices. Using familiar European grape varieties, American consumers have readily accepted their exports -- it is the largest wine importing country in the world and Argentina is number 6 in value of wines brought here. 

Mendoza, located in central Argentina, is the source of three quarters of wine produced in Argentina.  

We taste a great deal of wine every year, and wines from Argentina frequently impress us both in quality and value. The wines presented here are all in the value category. A later column will review premium more expensive offerings from Argentina. For some reason we seem to encounter more whites than reds, so our notes will skew in that direction.  

Following are our impressions:  

Domaine Bousquet Chardonnay Reserve Organic Tupungato Uco Valley Mendoza 2021 ($14). This wine is a beautiful mélange of tropical fruit and citrus. A big impact on the palate is followed by a lingering finish.  

Trapiche Oak Cask Chardonnay Mendoza 2021 ($12-15). A very quaffable white wine exhibiting citrus and apple notes with just a bare whiff of oak.  

Terrazas De Los Andes Chardonnay High Altitude Vineyards Mendoza 2021 ($20). Grown at the base of the Andes Mountains this cool climate chardonnay presents lemon and pear notes in a subtly creamy frame. Delicious!  

Mascota Vineyards Unanime Chardonnay Mendoza 2022 ($15-20). Another high altitude (4200 ft.) chardonnay. This example is for lovers of buttery chardonnays and it offers apple, peach and tropical fruit notes in a toasty oak frame. A beautiful white wine!  

Trapiche Oak Cask Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza 2021 ($10-12). A very nice drinkable table wine with very pure plum and sweet cherry notes. The oak influence is very mild, allowing the fruit to shine.  

Renacer Punto Final Reserva Cabernet Franc Organic Mendoza 2021 ($15-17). A great example of the potential of the cabernet franc grape. Ripe fruit with herbal berry notes. Reminds one of a good chinon from the Loire Valley. 

Rodney Strong 

Rodney strong is an easy brand to find on retail shelves. They offer a wide-ranging selection of reasonably priced table wines that often over deliver. We recently tasted two tiers of their premium selections that impressed us.  

The Rodney Strong Reserve Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2021 ($50) displayed very well-balanced notes of apple and pear with an enticing creamy finish. Smooth but balancing acidity created a beautiful package.  

Rodney Strong also produces a tier of single-vineyard cabernet sauvignons that while expensive deserve consideration by super premium California wine aficionados. We tasted the 2018 single vineyard wines from the Rockaway, Alexander’s Crown and Brothers vineyards and enjoyed their exuberant abundance of fruit displayed and the boldness of their expression. The 24 months they spend in new French oak barrels impart a significant oak impression that will need some time to integrate. We recommend at least a 5-year slumber to fully integrate the oak and mellow these outstanding wines. 

Penfolds 

We have met Peter Gago, chief winemaker at Australia’s fabled Penfolds, several times. The wines he shares from his vast collection are uniformly well-made and earn their wide praise. Besides the wine, we like Gago’s thirst for new adventures. 

For decades, the self-proclaimed admirer of California cabernet sauvignons has been working on a unique collaboration to bring two country’s wine industry together.  His effort has finally come to market with the inaugural release of The California Collection.  It represents what we believe to be the only blend of California- and Australia-grown cabernet sauvignon. 

We tasted the 2021 Bin 407 ($70) made entirely of grapes grown from vineyards in South Australia. This well-respected and historic selection has consistently complex and rich profile with dark fruit flavors. The label was launched with the 1990 vintage. It has good structure and depth. 

We also enjoyed the Penfolds Bin 704 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($70) and the Penfolds Bin 600 California Cabernet Shiraz 2020 ($50). 

Affordable Bordeaux 

The five premier crus of Bordeaux cost well more than $500 and are unaffordable for most people. But there are plenty of under-$25 wines classified as cru bourgeois or in the Bordeaux Superieur appellation. Most of these wines often rely on merlot and are delicious for current drinking 

Some of the top producers also make a second wine from younger vines that we have found taste well beyond their price points. In particular, there are two we recently tasted side by side. 

The Madame de Beaucaillou pays homage to the matriarch of the Borie family behind Ducru-Beaucaillou. The 2019 vintage uses grapes entirely from the Haut-Medoc for the first time.  It is a delicious, spirited wine with fresh cherry and currant flavors.  At $25 a bottle, we bought a case. 

Also at $25 is Margaux de Brane is a vibrant and merlot-driven gem that requires no additional aging to enjoy. It is another wine from Henri Lurton of Brane-Catenac. The fruit in this wine is very youthful – maybe from younger vines? -- but exuberant and bright. It’s worth every penny.  

Wine picks 

MacRostie The Key Chardonnay 2021 ($75). Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen uses only the best grapes from three estate sources to craft this plush, hedonistic chardonnay. Floral aromas with melon and citrus notes. 

Cuvaison Hedon Chardonnay 2021 ($70).  A part of its small lot tier from the Tai Estate Vineyard, this  Napa Valley chardonnay lives up to the origin of its name – hedonistic. Luxurious, opulent tropical fruit and pear notes with hints of butterscotch and vanilla. A good dose of oak too. 

Cuvaison Methode Beton Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($50). Made from a musque and sancerre clone, this special sauvignon blanc is a treat for those who enjoy this grape variety. Winemaker Steve Rogstad uses concrete egg-shaped fermenters, which provides a creamy texture while preserving its aromas.  

Andante Vineyard Aligote Willamette Valley 2021 ($35). New to us, this producer has one beautiful wine in this aligote. Great texture with creamy yet bright tangerine and peach notes. Floral with a bit of minerality. 

Gamble Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($60).  Rich and fruit-forward in style, it shows off dark berry and tobacco aromas with jammy raspberry and plum flavors. Petit verdot, merlot, cabernet franc and malbec were blended with 80 percent cabernet sauvignon. 

Questions answered: crystals, headaches, airplane wine

January 15, 2024

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

We are often asked questions about the complex world of winemaking.  Here are a few recent ones that struck a chord for us. 

I had a bottle of white wine the other day and noticed a lot of sediment at the bottom of the last glass.  Was something wrong with the wine?  

No, but we understand your concern. A recent dinner guest or ours was disgusted when she unwittingly drank some of these crystals in the last glass of a delightful Cormorant grenache-marsanne blend.  We too were surprised to see as much as a teaspoon of the crystals in the glass but assured her there was nothing harmful in the wine.  Nonetheless, it wasn’t pleasant to ingest. But if you weren’t in the presence of someone who knows better, you may assume the wine was flawed. For that reason, many winemakers subject their wines to cold stabilization to remove the crystals before the wine is bottled, but that process comes at the risk of stripping the wine of its important acidity. It is purely an issue of aesthetics that winemakers struggle with all the time. 

First, a lesson on where these crystals originate.  Affectionately called “wine diamonds,” these crystals are formed from naturally occurring tartaric acid critical to stabilizing chemicals and giving color and structure to a wine.  While some of it is removed in the filtering process, a bit is often soluble and thus unseen when purchased. But once you cool the wine in a refrigerator, the crystals form and sink to the bottom.  

We spoke with Coromorant winemaker Charlie Gilmore who admitted that his grenache-marsanne blend leaves behind a lot of crystals after it has been refrigerated. He said there are ways to remove the crystals at the winery but he is focused on making a pure, unadulterated wine.  He argues against cold fermentation, however. 

“It’s a major energy use,” he said. “To make a quality wine, I’m not going fine, filter or freeze.  And I think it’s a better wine if I don’t.” 

Second, we discovered a wine that remains for days in the refrigerator has a greater likelihood of forming crystals. In fact, the Cormorant blend was in Tom’s refrigerator for several days in preparation for Thanksgiving dinner.  Had he put the wine in the refrig a few hours before dinner, there may not have been as many crystals.   

We respect a winemaker who follows the natural process of winemaking and injects fewer chemicals and processes in clarifying a wine.  No fining or filtration were used and very little sulfites were added in the Cormorant. The result was a very fresh, crisp wine we would pour again – with less time in the refrig. 

I love red wine but I always get headaches even if I have only one glass.  I don’t get headaches from white wine. Is it me or is there something about red wine that makes my head hurt the next day? 

Trust us, this issue has been researched and debated for decades.  We have told readers it is not the sulfites, as they assumed, but most likely the phenolics or histamines that are more prevalent in red wine than white wine and even beer.  But a recent report in the Scientific Reports put an entirely new spin on headaches and red wine. 

Authored by Apramita Devi, Morris Levin and Andrew L. Waterhouse, the report pins the blame on quercetin which screens ultraviolet light as if it was a suntan lotion.  Only a chemical scientist can decipher the technical aspects of this scholarly report, but what we got from it is that red grapes exposed to more sunlight gather more quercetin. While the liver does a good job filtering alcohol, it is stressed when quercetin is added. The toxin that results from this incomplete filtering makes the head pound like a John Deere piston. In fact, alcoholics are often given high doses of these chemicals to create symptoms that discourage them from consuming alcohol. 

The study also found that flavonols, which is a broad group that includes quercetin, was “four times higher in ultra-premium wines than in high-volume wines.” This could be because the grape growers are exposing the vineyards to more sun to enhance ripeness and leaving the skins in contact with fermenting juice for longer periods. Vineyard practices aren’t so discriminating in making inexpensive wines. 

If you get headaches from red wine, check their price tag. 

The report can be found at www.nature.com/articles/s41598-023-46203-y. 

Does wine served in a plane at high altitude taste any differently? 

Count us among the surprised when we recently read that altitude will impact a wine’s flavor.  A press release from TAP Air Portugal said the airline sends its wine panel in the air just to taste the differences.  Imagine a bunch of white coat wine nerds flying in circles and tasting wine. Not a bad gig. 

Research shows that you taste about 20 percent less sugar and 30 percent less salinity in wines consumed 3,000 to 5,000 feet in altitude.  It’s not that the wine changes, but your taste buds may. Because both of those elements can have a profound effect on wine, it’s important to airlines that they select those wines that won’t noticeably suffer, i.e. wines that are fruity and less tannic. 

Wines with high salinity are those from vineyards near the sea – think albarino from northern Spain, assyrtiko from Greece or grillo from Sicily. Frankly, we haven’t found any of these wines traveling to and from Europe. But we wonder if a slightly sweet chardonnay from California will taste the same in the air that it does on the ground. 

Fliers often dehydrate, which is why you are advised on long flights to drink water instead of alcohol. Dehydration dampens the aromas of wine by as much as 25 percent, according to the research. Since the palate only picks up five elements – sweet, bitter, salt, acid and umami (the savory character that is akin to beef stock) – most of a wine’s character is determined by the aromas.  

Wine picks 

All Saints Estate Durif 2021 ($38). Wow. If you like your reds big and bold, this durif from the northeast Victoria region in Australia is an incredible discovery. Durif is a cross between peloursin and syrah and produces a tannic, dense wine with an inky black color and intense ripe berry flavors.  This has the tannins to preserve the wine for a decade or more. 

Coto de Imaz Reserva 2018 ($23).  We just can’t enough of Rioja, or so it seems. Every time we taste a new one, we wonder why tempranillo doesn’t grace our table more often.  This gem, entirely tempranillo, is chock full of dark berry fruit. Aged in American oak for at least 18 months, it has a pronounced vanilla and caramel nuance.  For a few bucks more the 2016 Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva ($37) has more concentration and richness. The additional bottle age gives it a round, sumptuous texture. 

Villa Maria New Zealand Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($16).  Those of you who like zesty and bright sauvignon blanc will be pleased with this version from the Marborough region. White grapefruit, a kiss of freshly mown grass and fresh acidity. 

Masciarelli raising the bar in Italy; J. Lohr

January 8, 2024

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Italy is a vast region when it comes to wine. You don’t have enough time left on earth to taste all of the wines it produces from more than 300 grape varieties in 20 different regions.  While much of it is table wine, there are standouts in each of the regions.  

One of them is Masciarelli from the Abruzzo region. Located in central Italy along the Adriatic Sea, it is influenced by sea and mountains.  Much of the wine is produced by cooperatives or sold in bulk to negociants.  Gianni Masciarelli, however, has raised the bar – but not the prices. After his death in 2008, his wife Marina Cvetic was joined by daughter Miriam Lee Masciarelli to carry on the business. It is the only producer in Abruzzo with vineyards in all four provinces.  All wines are estate grown. 

The dominant red grape is montepulciano and the white is trebbiano d’Abruzzo.  

We were impressed with the quality-price ratio of these wines. 

Villa Gemma Bianco Colline Teatine IGT 2022 ($24). A blend of trebbiano, pecorino and cococciola grapes, this delicious and fruit-forward wine has white peach and assertive lime notes with a dash of dried herbs. 

Villa Gemma Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva 2018 ($98).  The flagship of this producer, this bottle-aged reserve wine has won a lot of awards.  With grapes coming from 30-year-old vines and stainless-steel fermented, it has a lot of character from its French-oak aging. Produced in only the best vintages, it has dense, concentrated  black fruit flavors, fine tannins and intense aromas. 

Marina Cvetic Trebbiano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC ($60). The top wine for Masciarelli, this riserva is entirely trebbiano from two special vineyards. Aged 12 months in new French barriques, it spends another 12 months in bottle before it is released.  In this time the wine comes together in a beautiful expression of trebbiano.  

Marina Cvetic Montepulciano DOC Riserva 2019 ($38). Made entirely from montepulciano grapes, this wine has raspberry and red fruit notes with a dash of spice and a brambly personality.  

Grandes Pagos de Espana 

Spanish winemakers are making a genuine effort to separate top producers from average producers. Although the Spanish government created the Vin de Pago classification in 2003, it was focused more on soil composition. However, a few years earlier winemakers in Castilla-La Mancha and Castilla y Leon set additional criteria the includes a track record of quality.  That organization morphed into today’s Grandes Pagos de Espana.  

Thirty-five wineries in eight regions of Spain make up the new organization. To be admitted, a producer has to have an exceptional and single-vineyard estate, subject themselves to inspections and blind tasting and be accepted by a unanimous vote of current members.  It is primarily focused on terroir. 

We recently tasted a couple of wines from GPE producers.   

We enjoyed the 2017 Alonso del Yerro from the Ribera del Duero region. It is a full-bodied tempranillo with forward red fruit character and fine tannins.  

We also enjoyed the Fillaboa Albarino ($25) from Rias Biaxas region of northern Spain.  

J. Lohr 

The first time we met Jerry Lohr it was at dinner in as local restaurant sometime in the mid-1990s. Jerry had just completed a marathon of sales calls on wine shops and restaurants in the Baltimore /Washington metro area and was happy to finally be off his feet. Sitting in front of Jerry was a frosty martini that he gingerly sipped. When the up-and-coming winery owner was asked about his choice of libation, he explained that he had been tasting and talking about wine all day and needed a change of pace. Made sense to us. After all we had heard that the most common beverage in many wineries during the hectic days of harvest is most commonly beer.  

Growth has been tremendous since 1976 when the then Turgeon and Lohr wine company produced 10,000 cases. Today the J. Lohr winery (Turgeon retired in 1984 and Jerry Lohr bought his shares) is a top 25 U.S. producer with sales of 1.8 million cases. J. Lohr produces wine from estate vineyards in Napa Valley, Monterey County and Paso Robles from over a dozen varietals, although they are mainly known for the production of cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir and chardonnay. Well over two dozen individual wines are produced by J. Lohr and they enjoy a well-earned reputation for delivering widely available, full flavored, great value wines at reasonable prices.  

We recently tasted a selection of J. Lohr current releases and were reminded why we have held J. Lohr wines in high esteem over the years and recommend them to our readers. Following are our impressions:  

J. Lohr Arroyo Vista Chardonnay Arroyo Seco Monterey 2021 ($25). Balanced oak with baked apples and lemon curd flavors. Smooth and rich.  

J. Lohr Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2021 ($17). You can find this wine pretty much anywhere from grocery stores to fine wine shops. Black cherry and cassis nose and flavors. Deep rich and bold with mild tannins. A lot of wine for a great price.  

J. Lohr Fogs Reach Pinot Noir Arroyo Seco Monterey 2022 ($35). This is a classic expression of California pinot noir with deep, dense, ripe black cherry/berry notes. This will never be confused with a French Burgundy, but who cares? 

J. Lohr Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2019 ($35). A beautifully styled cabernet sauvignon from one of our favorite growing areas, Paso Robles. Bright fruit which is typical of the area folds into a big impressive red wine. Bold black cherry notes with a hint of tobacco. Pair this with a big juicy steak. 

Wine picks 

The Hilt Estate Pinot Noir 2021 ($45).  This is a medium-bodied yet elegant pinot noir from Sta. Rita Hills. Red cherry, clove and cranberry aromas give way to layered plum, cherry and black pepper flavors. 

Bouchaine Estate Pinot Noir 2021 ($40).  With pinot prices regularly $70 or more, this can be considered a bargain.  It has all the elements of a much more expensive pinot noir: complexity, depth and opulent fruit. Raspberry and dark cherry notes.  

Alois Lageder Schiara 2022 ($15).  A grape native to Alto Adige region in Italy, schiara produces a light-bodied and simple wine with fresh violet aromas and red fruity flavors.

Glassing over the carbon footprint; Cordant wines

January 1, 2024

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR  

For decades creative marketing firms have spent wine producers’ money on creating the right bottling package to impress voters.  Oftentimes, an attractive label – or a clever name -- is all a consumer needs to choose one bottle over another.  Years ago Far Niente became famous for its embossed label that contributed 75 cents to the bottle of its expensive chardonnay. Then came Cupcake whose name alone sold thousands of bottles (who doesn’t like a cupcake?), which spawned other food-related labels such as Bread & Butter. If that wasn’t enough, augmented wine labels – 19 Crimes, for instance – gave consumers a treat when the labels became animated when seen through a phone app. 

Labels, a cute name and even the closure were meant to grab the consumer’s attention. 

But if you want to really send surefire proof to a consumer that the wine he’s about to drink is really, really expensive, put the wine in a heavier bottle. Moreso than any other wine-growing region, California has led the way in putting $100-plus wine in weighty glass. Lift a 12-bottle case of these wines and you risk a hernia. 

Fortunately, more attention is being paid today to the environmental impact of additional bottle glass that does nothing to improve what’s inside.  It comes on the heels of an international drive towards organic and sustainable farming. And, why not? If consumers want less herbicides and pesticides in their wine to help the environment, they are not going to object to a lighter bottle. Do they really care as long as the bottle isn’t more prone to breakage? 

Wine’s most significant contribution of carbon is the emissions from bottle manufacture. A study sponsored by the Wine Institute estimated a bottle contributes 28 percent to the carbon footprint of wine production. Bag-in-the-box packaging would reduce the carbon footprint by an estimated 40 percent, although it would be a quantum leap for consumers to associate a bag with quality. 

We were struck by the sudden differences in bottle weight when we sampled several wines over a couple of days.  Here is what we found with the association of bottle weight to the wine’s price: 

Casa Santos Lima – 395 grams -- $15 

Cormorant sauvignon blanc – 487 grams -- $24 

Kirkland Barolo – 568 grams -- $20 

Penfolds California Bin 704 Cabernet Sauvignon – 721 grams -- $70 

Newton – 796 grams - $135 

The Thomas Collection -- 1,215 grams -- $330 

Fortunately, there is a global movement afoot to commit wine producers to a lighter bottle. An international agreement initiated by the Sustainable Wine Roundtable that includes Whole Foods and Naked Wines advocates lowering the weight of a regular bottle to 420 grams.  

Recently, Ancient Peaks Winery announced that several of its 2020 wines will be packaged in bottles weighing 42 percent less. And, Ron Rubin wines has Blue Bin wines – a rosé pinot grigio, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay -- in ultra-light-weight bottles for $15 each. The bottles are made of recycled plastic and lined with a thin layer of glass. They are ultra-light and can be tossed in a cooler without adding much weight. 

We are confident the pressure being applied on producers eventually will alter the course of wine packaging that will save money for bottlers and save the environment for us. 

Cordant 

Cordant winery draws fruit from Monterey County through Santa Barbara County, a distance that covers nearly 200 miles.  Generally, its wines fall into two groups: the conventional pinot noir/chardonnay and Rhone-style wines made from syrah, grenache and mourvedre. 

We have tasted these wines from previous vintages, but the 2021 wines are even better. 

Said Cordant founder David Taylor, “We believe the 2021 vintage will go down as one of the better vintages we have experienced in California.  Although it was considered a drought year, we had lower temperatures during the primary growing season than we sometimes experience.  This resulted in smaller grape clusters that were able to ripen over a longer period of time. As a result, the wines have depth and concentration while also maintaining a sinewy and layered texture.” 

Cordant Indocile 2021 ($65).  New to the Cordant family is this blend of 86 percent syrah and 14 percent grenache. Taylor said the goal was to “craft a wine whose style emulates the wines of Northern Rhone, that we would be proud to pour alongside producers from that area.”  He said that although the 14 percent grenache was somewhat uncommon in Northern Rhone, his team felt it helped to achieve a stylistic goal in 2021. We loved the mix of dark fruit notes and classic Rhone lavender and herbs. Well balanced with intensity and silkiness. 

Cordant Radian Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 ($70). Radian Vineyard in Sta. Rita Hills benefits from cooling fogs off the Pacific Ocean – ideal for pinot noir. There are generous black cherry and lavender aromas with rich red berry flavors and long finish. 

Cordant Manical 2021 ($65).  By far our favorite of the fabulous Cordant lineup, this blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre was inspired by the red blends of the Southern Rhone.  Sourcing grapes from the west side of Paso Robles, the wine has floral, lavender aromas with wild blackberry flavors and a fetching hint of spice and herbs.  

Cordant Escolle Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021 ($70).  This wine made from grapes grown in Santa Lucia Highlands is smooth and delicious with layers of red berry fruit and a hint of menthol and spice. 

Wine picks 

Enrico Serafino Picotener Langhe DOC 2020 ($30). One of the oldest wineries in Piedmont, Enrico offers a tasty and unique sub-variety of nebbiolo. The ancient and forgotten picotener grape variety offers expressive lavender and violet aromas plus plum and cherry flavors.  

Francis Coppola Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($15). This easy-to-drink sauvignon blanc has ample citrus and grapefruit notes with balanced acidity. 

Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc North Coast 2022 ($21). This is a very elegant sauvignon blanc featuring pear and citrus elements and a satisfying mouthfeel. Aged in stainless steel and neutral French oak.  

Open your mind to new wines in 2024

December 25, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Heading into a new year can challenge the psyche. We don’t know what the year will hold for us personally or for us as a country. Who knows? In January of 2023 did you predict anything that actually happened? We hope for the best, of course, because being an optimist is much less painful than being a pessimist. 

As our friend Shelly says, if you don’t like the mood, have another glass of wine. 

If politics and fate are unpredictable, maybe your choice of wine should be as well.  Shelly drinks La Crema pinot noir – nearly all the time. We offer her red and white alternatives. She indulges us, but privately we suspect she retreats to her La Crema.  It’s a good wine at least, but there is a sea of wine out there, ready to be discovered. Life’s too short to drink bad wine but it’s also too short to drink the same wine. Shelly has a good palate; we just need her to challenge it. 

We often hear from our readers who cannot find the wines we recommend and that is regrettable. But we have no idea what stores in your community carry other than Barefoot and Menage et Tois. But, don’t get hung up on wasting gas going store to store in search of one particular wine.  Think about the grape variety or the region we’re suggesting.  If we find one particular producer making a great wine in a specific region, chances are there are other producers of equal value. 

With that, let’s launch a collaborative effort to get out of our La Crema pinot noir box and discover new regions in 2024.  

We’ll give you a couple of ideas. 

Our newest discovery zone is Portugal.  Once exclusively associated with port, Portuguese winemakers are becoming equally known for its other wines that until now have been absent on the U.S. market.  Some of the most complicated red wines come from the northern areas of Douro, Vinho Verde and Dao where alvarinho, touriga nacional and tinto roriz reign. Farther south in the rolling and sun-drenched plains of Alentjo, you will find fruity wines made from aragonez, antao vaz, alicante bouschet and other unfamiliar grape varieties. These represent some of the best values in wine today. 

Just on the other side of the Pyrenees is Spain, an entirely different region with another bevy of great values. The most widely planted grape region in the world, Spain plays host to fewer grape varieities than Portugual – 20 in all – that include tempranillo, garnacha, monastrell, albarino, and verdejo.  We love some of the blends from Priorat, the tempranillos from Rioja and Ribera del Duero, and the monastrells from Jumilla.  The white wines from Galicia are perfect accompaniments to seafood.   

We all love Italy, right? But maybe you should stray farther away from your chianti hangup. You will be floored by the body and complexity of montefalco sagrantino from Umbria or the fresh greco di tufo from Campania. Sicily is exporting more and more nero d’avola and the fruity frappato that are often medium-bodied and versatile with food. 

You know the burgundies and bordeaux of France, but when is the last time you tasted a wine from Roussillon or Languedoc? Southern France is our new favorite. While neighboring Provence is known for rosé, Languedoc uses the same grape varieties – syrah, grenache, mourvedre, cinsault, carignan – to make boisterous, dense red wines. Taste a Domaine Tempier from Bandol and you will want to find more gems like this. 

If you like Australian shiraz, get out of the Hunter Valley and try the wines from Victoria.  They are vastly underrated and largely undiscovered.  We tasted a bunch of them recently and wondered why we had ignored this region for so long. 

This is hardly a comprehensive guide to unique wine growing regions – but it should give you a start as you head to the door. Get out of the wine run. There’s a next-favorite wine just waiting to be discovered. We’ll be working on Shelly. 

Discussing sparkling wine with wine lovers most consumers can reel off champagne, cava, prosecco and a variety of domestic producers.  If you mention Trentodoc you’re likely to garner a blank stare. Given the small production and paucity of selections available in the U.S., this sparkling wine producer in the northeastern region of Italy has earned its reputation for obscurity. Before World War I this mountainous region was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Following the war Italy achieved dominion over the area.  

Only white and rosé sparking wine are produced using this appellation in the region. Sparkling wine is produced from the same grapes used to make French Champagne and uses the same production process. The result is remarkably high-quality sparkling wine that in some cases compares favorably with the French version.  

Only about 2,800 acres produce grapes for Trentdoc champagne and remarkably 80 percent of their production is consumed in Italy.  

We recently tasted 3 rosés from the region to familiarize our palates with this sparkling wine. Our two favorites were the 2016 Rotari Trentodoc Rosé ($25) which is 75 percent pinot noir and 15 percent chardonnay. The sparkler presented a yeasty bready nose with strawberry and cherry flavors. A bright very complete wine.  

Next was the Ferrari Trentodoc Brut Rosé N/V ($35-40). Made from 60 percent pinot noir and 40 percent chardonnay. Again, the appealing yeasty nose with creamy berry notes. A very nice sparkler that is easy to drink.  

We found the Montfort Trentodoc Rosé Brut N/V ($30-40) a bit too tart for our taste. The wine presented citrus and cherry notes and was made from a 50/50 blend of pinot noir and chardonnay.  

Wine picks 

Alois Lageder Terra Alpina Pinot Grigio 2018 ($16). Fresh and crisp with floral aromas and mango, citrus flavors. 

Riff Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC 2022 ($12).  From the Veneto region, this crisp and distinctive pinot grigio is a good buy. Light-bodied and refreshing, it is a good quaffing wine or one to serve with simple fare. 

Cormorant Cellars Grenache/Marsanne 2021 ($27). New to us, Cormorant is making several impressive wines in Dry Creek Valley and Monterey. Winemaker Charlie Gilmore likes to make wine in an old-world style: no pesticides or fertilizers in the vineyard, no fining or filtering, few additional sulfites. The result, as evident in this blend, is purity of fruit, fresh acidity and bright flavors.  The blend showed green apple and citrus notes. 

Bubbles to welcome in the new year

December 18, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

By far the most popular time of the year to consume champagne is now.  It is estimated that well more than half of champagne’s production is bought in the last two months of the year.  We like to think of it as a year-round beverage to be enjoyed for no particular occasion, but unfortunately this special elixir is associated with celebrations ranging from the end of a war to the start of a marriage. 

For centuries champagne was reserved to the upper class who cruised on the Queen Elizabeth or who roamed a vast French estate. But the advent of cross-Atlantic transportation brought to our shores more choices: cava from Spain, prosecco from Italy and sparkling wine from just about every other country. Korbell laid the foundation for California sparkling wine as far back as 1892.  In 1973 Moet & Chandon was the first French champagne house to produce sparkling wine and set off a wave of French champagne producers to make wine in this country. 

Only producers from Champagne have a right to the name, but other than that is there a difference between French bubbles and those from any other country?  

Three grapes go into champagne – chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier.  These varieties grow well in Champagne’s cool climate, but they also are the perfect combination for the best the world has to offer. They are the same grapes the French and Americans also depend on in making sparkling wine from California. 

Other countries, however, draw from indigenous grape varieties.  Glera is the grape of choice for prosecco; parellada, macabeo and xarel-lo are the principal grapes for cava. These blends make for a sparkling wine remarkably different from champagne. 

What you prefer will depend on personal taste but also your budget. You may be surprised to find the gap between California and France has closed over the last decade thanks to competition and a champagne glut.  Some of the best producers in California routinely sell their bottled bubbles at prices ranging from $40 to $80.  Moet & Chandon and Veuve-Cliquot can be found for under $40. Montaudon, a popular quaff on cruise ships and weddings, cost $45 and is relatively easy to find.  One of our favorites for the price is Nicolas-Feuillatte which can be found for under $40. 

If you want to make the occasion special this year, our favorite house is Billecart-Salmon.  Although not cheap, other Champagne houses make even more expensive wines: Louis Roederer’s Cristal, Salon, Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne, Krug and the ubiquitous but overrated Dom Perignon.  We have sipped great champagne with Henri Krug, but we cannot afford his $500 cuvee. 

Here are a few special choices for you this year: 

Inman Family Blanc de Noir 2019 ($78). Kathleen Inman makes a lot of great wine in the Russian River Valley, including sparkling wine that on its best level can cost much more.  We liked this pinot noir from her OGV vineyard. The red fruit character rises up with every bubble. Brisk acidity and hints of mineral. 

Frank Family Vineyards Brut Rose 2017 ($60). From Napa’s Carneros region, this wonderful sparkler is made entirely from pinot noir.  Good palate weight and rich red fruit notes. 

J Vineyards Cuvee 20 ($40). Lemon meringue and white peach character highlights this Russian River Valley sparkling wine. Always dependable. 

Gruet Brut ($18).  People are shocked that this popular and respected producer hails from New Mexico, but it continues to draw good reviews. For the money you get a lot of complexity and flavors ranging from apple to citrus to pineapple. 

La Grand Courtage Brut Rosé ($22).  Made by a female cast, this French champagne is a popular choice at weddings and other large gatherings because of its reasonable price and pedigree.  It may not have a lot of luxury quality or complexity, but it’s a decent quaff tor the money. 

Argyle Spirit Hill Vineyard Blanc de Blancs 2018 ($60). This chardonnay from a single vineyard exudes grace. White peach and apple notes with a floral bouquet and a backbone of minerality.   

Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé ($70).  Year after year, this champagne warms our hearts. Everything about it exemplifies what you want to sip on a special occasion, such as a small holiday dinner. It speaks luxury: fine and persistent bubbles, balance, a hint of biscuit on the nose and delicate red-fruit notes. 

La Marca Prosecco ($15).  Don’t expect the quality of champagne, but the La Marca at this price delivers the bubbles in simple and light flavors. Like all prosecco, it is off-dry. 

Enrico Serafino Oudeis Brut Alta Langa DOCG 2018 ($30). This producer has been making sparkling wine in the Piedmont since 1878.  Made from chardonnay and pinot noir grapes. White peach flavors and aromas of honey and almonds. 

Adami Vigneto Giardino Valdobbiadene Rive de Colbertaldo Asciutto 2022 ($26).  This prosecco from the Valdobbiadene region is lively and elegant with apple and citrus notes. 

Spend that bonus 

Hopefully you are among the people who earned a bonus this year. Sure, you should save it for something practical, but maybe you have a few extra dollars to ring in the new year with a splurge. Here are three splurge buys to consider: 

Louis Martini Lot 1 Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($250). A boldly structured wine, this top-of-the-line cabernet exudes black cherry flavors, density and concentration. 

Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($160). We have enjoyed many vintages of this reserve wine since the 1980s and it never fails to please. Although more expensive today, it has the same character every year: Napa Valley, classic, earthy and concentrated. Ripe blackberry and plum aromas with a floral nose, spice and unending hints of herbs and mint. 

Billecart-Salmon Nicolas Francois 2008 ($250). A blend of chardonnay and pinot noir from great crus in classified vineyards, this special wine pays homage to the founder of Billecart-Salmon. It is floral with bright and fresh white peach and cherry notes and a fine bead of bubbles and hints of nuts and toast. It is quite the luxury. 

Save that money 

Maybe you did not get a bonus this year but still want to buy a bottle to drown your sorrow. Wines like those listed above are out of the question. 

Consider the “Hard Working Wines” made by McPrice Myers.  They sell for only $25 and truly are the wines made for the hard-working consumer who didn’t get – but deserved – a bonus.   

Among them is the 2022 Right Hand Man syrah from the Central Coast.  Blended with a bit of petite sirah and viognier, it has jammy blueberry and blackberry flavors. It is a perfect foil for ribs, pizza, burgers and more. 

We also liked Pound for Pound, a Paso Robles zinfandel loaded with juicy dark fruit flavors, and High on the Hog, a versatile and delicious blend of grenache, syrah, zinfandel, petite sirah, merlot, cabernet sauvignon and mourvedre. These great values get high marks from the critics. 

Gift suggestions for the wine enthusiast

December 11, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR  

With the holiday quickly approaching, we imagine many of you are searching for a unique gift for dad or anyone else in the family who enjoys wine. Perhaps you are troubled buying a wine he may not enjoy – the same dilemma you face when selecting a tie – but you don’t know the hobby well enough to imagine an alternative. 

We’re here to help. 

There are a ton of simple gifts that won’t cost you an arm and a leg. Take, for instance, a corkscrew. We prefer the waiter’s helper design that resembles a folding knife. But there are electric corkscrews and lever styles that do the job with a little flourish.  If a person has a lot of aged wines in his cellar, the ideal corkscrew we recommend is The Durand ($135).  Shaped like ah so, but a lot better, The Durand almost guarantees that an old cork will emerge intact. A simple folding corkscrew ranges in cost from $8 to $40. 

For Yeti fans there are several gifts to consider. We love our 10-oz. Rambler tumblers ($25) that keep wine chilled on even the hottest days. But this year we have our eyes on Rambler wine chiller ($70), which is double-walled like the Yeti water bottles and can keep wine cool for hours.  It’s attractive and fits most bottles – including most champagne.  Alas, you have to put it in a refrigerator before using. 

Crate & Barrel has an alternative Rapid Beverage Chiller ($105) that it says will cool a bottle to 50 degrees in less than five minutes.  

Preserving wine for several days isn’t much of an issue for us, but someone who wants only a glass of wine a day may want to consider a device to make it last.  Coravin makes very expensive wine preservation systems, but an inexpensive VacuVin ($15) can do the job.  It’s a great stocking stuffer too. 

We constantly shuffle wine from our houses to another. We have several bags that can tote two bottles or as many as six. Instead of using a grocery bag, consider something dressier yet functional.  Freshore has a two-bottle bag with a strap for $43; David King & Co has an even nicer one for $84. 

Books are a great idea.  If your dad or friend is planning a trip to a foreign wine region – or if you want to drop a hint! -- there is a book for you.  Or if you want something general, consider Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson’s “World Atlas of Wine” ($65), a definitive tome that covers every wine region for both experts and novices. We have two editions of it and refer to them often. 

You may get a laugh giving dad “Oldman’s Guide to Outsmarting Wine” by Mark Oldman. The paperback ($28) is aimed for novices who want to learn more about wine and laugh at the process. 

“The Wines of Burgundy” by Clive Coates ($45) will be a great first step in planning a trip to one of France’s most beautiful wine regions. Or if Italy is the destination, consider “Vino Italiano: The Regional Wines of Italy by Joseph Bastianich and David Lynch ($23). Add to that a bottle of silky smooth 2018 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino ($100) -- Wine Spectator’s “Wine of the Year” -- and you have one very nice gift that will earn kudos.  

If you’re in a philanthropic mood, a portion of proceeds from a three-bottle collection of Far Niente wines will go to the V Foundation, an organization dedicated to cancer research.  The $351 collection includes Far Niente, Nickel & Nickel and Dolce. Or the proceeds of J. Lohr’s Carol’s Cabernet Sauvignon go to National Breast Cancer Foundation. 

A nice bottle of wine is always appreciated. Here are some reasonably priced bottles of wine that would make well-received gifts: 

Textbook Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2021 ($27). This textbook cabernet sauvignon hits all the right notes: approachable, generous raspberry and black cherry flavors, medium body and a versatile quaff to pair with pasta, burgers, grilled meats. 

McPrice Myers High on the Hog 2021 ($25).  Wines from this Paso Robles producer continue to get routine 90-plus scores from the Wine Advocate.  They deliver a lot for the money. This one is a blend of grenache, petite sirah, syrah, zinfandel, mourvedre, malbec and lagrein – whew!  Jammy strawberry and sweet plums with hints of licorice and herbs. 

Lange Twins Thirty Eight Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($32). While most producers are releasing their 2021 cabernets, Lange Twins gave some extra bottle age before putting it on the shelf. The result is a round wine with forward black cherry and plum notes with a hint of spice. It hails from the Jahant AVA in Lodi. 

Kirkton Estate The Triton Shiraz 2021 ($25).  This is an excellent buy from Australia’s Hunter Valley. Rich in style with dark berry fruit, currants and a healthy dose of chocolate.  Simply delicious. 

Obsidian Ridge Estate-Grown Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($38).  This is a perennial favorite of ours because it is chock full of dark fruit, dense and complex for the price. 

Franciscan Estate California Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($15).  A good value even if it is a far cry of the old Franciscan cabs made decades ago, this is a delicious wine with sweet and savory dark fruit accented by mocha and vanilla notes.  

The Mill Keeper Cabernet Sauvignon California ($26). This multi-vintage cabernet sauvignon from the Gamble Family is a stunner for the price. Soft and textural, it shows off the best each vintage has to offer: black cherry notes with hints of vanilla and oak. Easy to drink, it is inspired by the first mill keepers of the 1800s. 

The Paring Red Blend 2019 ($25).  This is an excellent blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot and petit verdot.  Soft tannins and forward black fruit flavors. 

Wine picks 

Mount Veeder Winery Napa Valley Chardonnay 2021 ($50).  Ripe apple and tropical fruit aromas with a pineapple flavor and a hint of vanilla. A great companion to fowl or fish. 

San Salvatore Elea Paestum-Greco IGP 2018 ($35).  This white greco from Italy’s Campania region is fermented mostly in stainless steel tanks which maintains its fresh appeal.  Round and supple pear fruit and citrus notes.  

Halter Ranch Syrah 2020 ($55).  This round and delicious syrah from Paso Robles’ Adelaida District shows off varietal blackberry flavors with a hint of chocolate and spice. 

Open the wallet for that holiday wine

December 4, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

We realize that not everyone can afford to buy wine that costs well more than $50 a bottle. Yet at this time of the year -- when we search for something special to give to a host, gift to a friend who has everything or just enjoy with someone special for an intimate dinner -- we justify spending more than we usually do. 

A gift of wine should always be appreciated no matter its cost. Attending a large open-house doesn’t call for an expensive bottle that won’t be recognized by a harried host the next day. But if you’re invited to a lavish party of eight guests or less, maybe a premium wine would be appreciated, especially if you are asked to bring a wine to be shared.  Or, if your spouse is making leg of lamb, lobster thermidor or prime rib, why not complement the dinner with a wine equally luxurious? You can justify it because a good bottle of inexpensive wine would cost more than $50 at a restaurant that generally marks up wine 400 percent. 

Next week we’ll have several wines under $50 that would make nice gifts, but this week we’re focused on premium wines for those who can afford them.  

What drives the cost of a premium wine? Let’s start with the grapes. Inexpensive wines often come from a broad region – the entire state of California or several vineyards in several appellations, for instance. Expensive wines, on the other hand, not only come from a single vineyard but from a specific block of grapes. The yield is low and only the perfectly ripened grapes are used.  

Once the grapes reach the winery, they are given even more tender loving care. Depending on the grape variety, the winemaker could induce malolatic fermentation, pump overs and gentle pressing to extract the best attributes from the grapes. But perhaps the most significant contributing factor is the barrel. French barrels, which are used for fermentation and aging, can cost more than $3,000 each. 

Of course, market demand also drives prices. A wine that is tightly allocated will cost more because consumers are willing to pay steep prices to own it. 

Here are several Napa Valley luxury wines we have enjoyed: 

J.O. Sullivan Founder’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($310).  This is a monster of a wine that fits nicely into the upper-tier of special wines making Napa Valley famous.  It’s as good as anything in this price category, here or abroad. Blended with 13 percent petit verdot, it has substantial complexity and firmness that portends well into the future. For those worried about the vintage, much of the harvest was done before the Glass fire and any tainted grapes were discarded. Black fruit flavors with hints of herbs and bitter chocolate. 

Said winemaker Jeff Cole, “The J.O. Cabernet Sauvignon stands as the epitome of excellence, featuring the most distinguished lots from our Estate. Its pricing is a reflection not solely of our location in Rutherford and exacting farming methods but also encompasses the laborious winemaking process, selection of premium cooperages, and meticulous cellaring. These elements integrate to form a standard of quality that naturally warrants a premium, embodying our unwavering commitment to crafting wines of unparalleled distinction.” 

Baldacci Family Vineyards The Thomas Collection Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2018 ($1,000 for a three-bottle set). This is the inaugural edition of this special cabernet sauvignon from grapes grown in the estate’s Stags Leap District and Diamond Mountain District – two areas known for their concentrated, rich wines. Named in honor of winemaker Michael Baldacci’s father, it is a profound wine aged for 22 months in all new French oak barriques designed with a proprietary oak and toast profile. We found lots to love in this just-released limited edition, although it comes with a hefty price tag. Blackberry, blueberry and black currant notes with richness and length. 

Gamble Family Vineyards Paramount 2018 ($90).  Tom Gamble didn’t make a Paramount blend of Bordeaux grapes in 2020, but the 2017 and 2018 vintages are still being poured in the tasting room.  We like the 2018 – a superb vintage – for its depth and easy drinkability. Huge floral aromas with plum and cherry flavors, good spice, and soft mouthfeel.  

Turnbull Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($60). Turnbull has a terrific reserve wine from Oakville for twice the money, but this one is a deal in the ultra-premium class. Broad aromas of cedar, fresh and bright red fruit and cocoa powder followed by lively cherry and currant fruit flavors. 

Goosecross State Lane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($90). Christi and Dave Ficeli have breathed new life into this Napa Valley winery since they acquired it in 2012. This cabernet – blended with a bit of petit verdot – excels in concentration and texture. Blackberry and red currant notes abound with hints of mocha, vanilla and cedar. 

Newton Yountville Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($210). Newton makes a series of spectacular cabernet sauvignons that show off the best Napa Valley has to offer.  This one from Yountville exhibits the more brambly character of the grape variety, making it rustic and wild. Cassis, red currant and black cherry dominate the palate with a hint of thyme and coffee.  Don’t let the current appeal deceive you – it is good for cellar aging too. 

Chappellet Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($95).  We’ve enjoyed this wine over several vintages and continue to be amazed by its depth and clarity.  The Chappellets pioneered high-elevation cabernet sauvignon on Pritchard Hill, arguably the best mountain slope for grapes in Napa Valley. With all the noble Bordeaux grape varieties to draw from its 48 blocks, it can create a terrific wine year after year. Intense black cherry, rosemary and black currant aromas followed by dark berry flavors and hints of mocha and anise. 

Larkmead Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($125).  About 17 percent merlot and one percent cabernet franc makes up the blend to this rounded, luscious wine with easy tannins and balanced acidity. Ripe and juicy blackberry and plum notes with floral and spice aromas. One of the best wines we’ve tasted from this producer. 

Beaulieu Vineyard Rutherford Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($85). Fifteen percent of malbec and petit verdot is blended into this smooth cabernet sauvignon from the esteemed Rutherford region.  Concentrated blackberry and cassis notes with hints of forest-floor and chocolate. 

Sancerre’s beautiful wines; Sicily

November 27, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Sancerre is arguably one of the most requested and consumed white wines from France. However, it is doubtful whether consumers know the grape is produced from (sauvignon blanc) or where it is grown (Loire Valley). Now, you don’t need to understand a wine’s pedigree or place of origin to appreciate its qualities. However, knowing a bit about the elixir in your glass can greatly enhance your enjoyment of the wine.  

The Loire Valley is one of the top five recognized wine producing areas in France along with Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone Valley, and Champagne. The valley and the surrounding grape growing areas stretch about 170 miles from the Atlantic Ocean west into the interior of France. The Loire Valley is home to some of France’s iconic expressions of the sauvignon blanc and chenin blanc grapes. It is home to the melon de bourgogne grape that yields the lively muscadet wine, arguably the perfect accompaniment to oysters on the half shell. Cabernet franc, pinot noir and gamay also make appearances representing red grapes from this region.  

We recently tasted a selection of wines from the Loire Valley alongside of a very popular sancerre to provide a contrasting look to the different sub-regions and grapes. In the process we discovered a lot more about the region.  

We began our tasting with the Raphael Midoir Plaine des Cailloux Touraine Oisly 2018 ($18-20). Touraine Oisly is a sub-region of Touraine and has only existed since 2011. Our previous experience with sauvignon blancs from Touraine were from tasting an inexpensive white wine exhibiting herbal citrus notes in a relatively simple package -- not quite up to the quality of sancerre but it could work in a pinch. The Raphael Midoir Touraine Oisly is in another class. Rich with a deep golden color and a complex textured experience with floral, grapefruit, peaches and some tropical fruit notes in a wonderful mélange. An amazing wine at a bargain price. It is our understanding that a 2021 vintage exists, but we have not tasted it.  

The Patient Cottat Sancerre Ancienne Vignes Sancerre 2022 ($35). This is a classic sancerre exhibiting herbal citrus notes with a hint of tropical fruit in a very smooth package. Unfortunately, prices for sancerre white wines have increased dramatically recently.  

Pascal Janvier Jasnieres 2022 ($28). Made from the chenin blanc grape in an appellation we didn’t know, Jasnieres is a sub-appellation of the Coteaux du Loir and only produces wine from the chenin blanc grape. The wine presents a honied mineral experience with subtle acidity and a very creamy finish. Although certainly drinking well now, these wines have a reputation for aging gracefully.  

The only red wine we tasted was the Domaine Filliatreau Samur-Champigny Vielles Vignes 2018 ($28-34). This wine presented in a bold style that was clearly designed to pair with meat dishes or strong cheeses. The abundant tannins are soft with plum, cranberry and a hint of herbs in the nose and mouth. A serious wine for serious food.  

Wines from Sicily 

Sicilian wines, once obscure and sparsely stocked in wine shops, are now finding increasing availability in this country. White, red, and rosés are now exported to the U.S. and generally priced for consumers with moderate means. We’re all in for a good deal, right? Sicily is an island off the southwestern coast of Italy. It’s capital Palermo has a reputation for suffering more invasions than any other city in the world. Sicily’s cuisine today reflects the influence of these many invaders.  

Sicily boasts a robust wine industry with nero d’avola planted more than any other red grape. We feel that nero d’avola is easily compared to the cabernet sauvignon grape in the U.S., producing bold, long-lasting fruity wines. Nero d’avola means black grape from the town of Avola in the province of Siracusa in southeastern Sicily. Although considered indigenous, it was brought to Sicily by the Greeks thousands of years ago.  

We were impressed by the consistency and overall quality of a flight of nero d’avolas we recently tasted. Some of these wines listed may be hard to source. If you can’t find the specific wines mention, we recommend selecting available nero d’avola with a Sicilia DOC designation in the $20 range. Our experience with this class of wine is that they are remarkably consistent.  

Following are our tasting impressions:  

Duca Di Salaparuta Passo Delle Mule Nero D’Avola Sicilia DOC 2021 ($25). Deep dark cherry nose. Bold cherry fruit flavors and mild tannins. Excellent!  

Baglio Oro Ceppineri Nero D’Avola Riserva Sicilia DOC 2017 ($23). Plum and cherry nose and flavors with hints of mocha. Soft tannins and very enjoyable.  

Cantine Vinci Lithos Nero D’Avola Sicilia DOC 2018 ($23). This wine displayed more dried fruit notes with plums and cherries dominating.  

Cantine Paolini Nero D’Avola Sicilia DOC 2019 ($15-20). Once again, a very substantial red wine displaying plum and cherries and in an easy drinking soft tannin package.  

Wine picks 

Fiddehead Cellars Seven Twenty Eight Pinot Noir 2016 ($48). The additional bottle age rounds out this outstanding, terroir-driven pinot noir from Sta. Rita Hills. Jammy black cherry notes with a dash of spice. 

Garfoli Piancarda Rosso Conero DOC 2020 ($17).  The oldest family owned winery in the Marche region of Italy, Garfoli has several wines worthy of their price. This classic montepulciano is fruit forward and is light- to medium-bodied.  

Tenuta Scersce Nettare Rosso di Valtellina DOC 2021 ($30).  Winemaker Cristina Scarpellini bottles her passion for wine in this easy-to-drink nebbiolo.  It’s light enough to go well with pasta and other simple foods. 

Chardonnay goes well with that turkey dinner

November 20, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

With Thanksgiving right around the corner, we thought this would be a good occasion to round up a bunch of chardonnays we recently tasted.  Last week we wrote a column of alternative choices for the festive holiday dinner, but chardonnay still remains one of our favorite white wines to serve with the traditional turkey meal. 

Chardonnay – one of the most popular grape varieties worldwide – enjoys a popularity based on a range of styles that appeals to a large swath of consumers.  Chardonnay from Chablis, for instance, is lean and minerally. French burgundy is aromatic and often full-bodied. California chardonnays blessed with oak are often creamy and rich. Pick a style and enjoy. 

Here are some of our recent favorites: 

The Hilt Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay 2021 ($50). This extraordinary chardonnay has become a perennial favorite. One of the best in a flight of chardonnays we recently tasted, it deserves its price. Six months on the lees in stainless-steel tanks gives it a velvety texture.  Great stone fruit and lemon custard aromatics are enveloped in a palate of ripe peaches and spice.  Excellent balance and finish add to one of the most well-rounded chardonnays in this group. 

Mount Veeder Winery Napa Valley Chardonnay 2021 ($50).  Ripe apple and tropical fruit aromas with a pineapple flavor and a hint of vanilla. A great companion to fowl or fish. 

Joseph Drouhin Saint-Veran 2021 ($25).  Don’t overlook Burgundy for reasonably priced chardonnay. Those from the Maconnais and smaller villages can give you a lot of flavor for the money.  We like them in general for their freshness and oak-avoidance that give them a clean palate feel.   

Henri Perrusset Macon-Farges Vielle Vignes 2019 ($25). The chardonnay from villages west of the Saone River are reasonably priced. Austere in scope with white peach, nutty and citrus notes, it has an interesting minerality that pairs well with fish. 

Trenel Macon Villages 2021 ($28).  Simple yet long in the finish with citrus and tropical fruit notes. 

FEL Anderson Valley Chardonnay 2021 ($34). This producer forgoes the malolactic fermentation to keep the wine fresh and lively. It makes for a better match to food. Stone fruit aromas and citrus and melon flavors.  

Ram’s Gate Bucher Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 ($74). This is an absolutely stunning chardonnay for those consumers looking for something special to pair with the holiday dinner. Very rich and full-bodied on the palate, it exudes citrus notes, spice and tropical fruit flavors, a brush of oak and balanced acidity. 

Sonoma-Cutrer Dutton Ranch Chardonnay 2021 ($40). We haven’t found a better chardonnay for the price in a long time. Part of the producer’s Winemaker’s Release series, the chardonnay draws grapes from two vineyards from the respected Dutton Ranch, which is known for producing wines with robust flavors. The grapes were whole-cluster pressed to avoid bitter tannins from the skins and seeds. The wine is smooth with baked apple, peach flavors and hints of clove and vanilla. It’s simply delicious. 

Landmark Overlook Chardonnay 2020 ($27). The price is reasonable for what you get here. Apples, pears and citrus notes abound in the nose and mouth with balanced acidity and lengthy finish. 

VML Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2021 ($37).  Using grapes from four vineyards, seven diverse blocks and three different clones, VML has a complex and balanced chardonnay. The aromas are of freshly baked bread, vanilla and almond. Tropical and apple fruit dominate the palate.  

Gary Farrell Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2021 ($40).  We loved this wine for its huge aromatics – stone fruit and melon – and its generous flavors – citrus, nectarine and lots of roasted almonds. Rich and complex, it’s a good match to seafood dishes. 

Bread and Butter California Chardonnay 2021 ($16).  A good value, this chardonnay from the broad California appellation delivers tropical fruit notes in a creamy envelope. Oak and vanilla add a nice touch. 

Ferrari Carano Tre Terre Chardonnay 2021 ($36). This tasty wine from the Russian River Valley shows off citrus and apple notes with a good dose of stone-fruit flavors and a hint of spice. 

Decoy Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2021 ($30). Apple and white peach flavors dominate this richly textured wine – always a good value. 

Baileyana Edna Valley Chardonnay 2021 ($28).  We were very pleased with this fairly priced chardonnay from a region cooled by ocean breezes. We loved the citrus, stone fruit aromas and ripe tropical fruit flavors. Very opulent and spiked with mineral and spice. 

Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay Sonoma County 2022 ($27). A classically styled California chardonnay. Ripe tropical fruit and peach notes marry well with toasty oak elements and a creamy finish. 

Wine picks 

Chateau Ste Michelle Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($40). This producer is a reliable mainstay in the vast Columbia Valley region of Washington. We hope the equity partners who bought it this year will not change the price-quality ratio for which it has been known. This sturdy cabernet is a prime example of what doesn’t need changing. Concentrated dark fruit character with firm tannins.  

Chateau Ste Michell Artist Series Red Wine 2019 ($70).  Beyond the beautiful label that showcases artist Jazz Brown is a wonderfully complex and rich blend of cabernet sauvignon (61 percent), merlot, malbec and cabernet franc. Well-structured with black cherry and plum notes and a hint of spice. 

True Myth Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($24). Ripe dark red fruit flavors with a hint of pepper and dark chocolate. 

Kirkland Barlo 2019 ($20).  This isn’t your classic, high-octane barolo that collectors will crow about, but it has a savory character hard to ignore.  Medium-bodied with cherry and tobacco notes. 

Don’t fret over the best wine to complement turkey

November 13, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

We have probably written 30 columns about what wine goes best with a classic Thanksgiving dinner of turkey, potatoes, stuffing and pumpkin pie. The advice has always been the same: pour what you like because it won’t make a difference.  

So, there you have it. 

Turkey is a fairly neutral meat that won’t overwhelm a wine like, say, lamb would if the wine is not carefully chosen. A neutral meat opens the door to red and white, both of which have a place at our table. Giving your guests a choice makes the culinary occasion more fun and adventurous. 

Side dishes – cranberries, sweet potatoes and dessert – could throw off some wines, but don’t waste time dwelling on it. You have more to worry about than pairing the wines. 

For reds, we like beaujolais because it’s relatively simple and fruity.  Don’t bother with just “beaujolais,” the simplest of wines from this French region. Buy “beaujolais village” or one of the crus that carry a village name, such as Morgon or Moulin-a-Vent.  These wines are inexpensive, which is good if you’re serving a large gathering. 

We also like pinot noir, syrah and grenache. 

For whites, we like chardonnay because it’s frequent creaminess matches well gravy and turkey. Alternatives include pinot grigio, riesling and albarino. 

Next week we’ll focus on chardonnay.  This week, here are some alternatives: 

Chateau Ste Michelle Eroica Riesling 2022 ($22).  This partnership with German winemaker Dr. Ernst Loosen is a perfect match to the classic Thanksgiving dinner.  Off-dry, it will complement turkey and side dishes equally.  White peach and citrus notes abound. 

Liquid Light Chardonnay 2022 ($11-15).  From Washington state, this delightful and inexpensive chardonnay has a smooth mouthfeel without a lot of acidity. Best of all, it has low alcohol and only 95 calories per 5-oz glass.  If you are concerned about your guests’ alcohol consumption, this may be a good call. 

Andante Vineyards Willamette Valley Aligote 2021 ($35). This is a very nice white alternative to chardonnay. From the Van Duzer AVA, known for its cooling winds, it is made entirely from aligote grapes – unusual in this neck of the woods. It has easy-to-drink flavors of white peach and mandarin with a nice hint of spice. 

Trenel Beaujolais Cuvee Rochebonne 2021 ($21). Youthful cherry and raspberry notes with a white pepper finish and soft texture. Made from gamay grapes. 

Frank Family Vineyards Napa Valley Zinfandel 2021 ($45).  Always a winner in our circle of friends, this zinfandel has the ripe fruit character we love in the grape. Eminently drinkable and versatile enough to match tomato-based or sweet dishes, it is balanced, fruity and delicious. Although its DNA has been traced to other varieties in Europe, zinfandel is an American grape – perfect to match an American holiday. 

Sonoma-Cutrer Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2022 ($25).  This is an excellent bargain.   Lots of rich and creamy texture with elements of apple, spice and oak. 

Kirkton Estate Hunter Valley “The Williams” Semillon 2022 ($25).  This impressive Australian producer makes value-oriented red and white wines from old vines, but we enjoyed this exceptional semillon – a versatile wine that would pair well with an elegant seafood or turkey dinner. Stone fruit notes with nice minerality. 

Fiddlehead Cellars Oldsville Pinot Noir 2016 ($60). Winemaker Kathy Joseph pays homage to this McMinnville vineyard where she produced wines for 15 vintages before repositioning to her winery in California.  Lavender aromas with red fruit and spice flavors. Joseph gives two years of bottle age before releasing it, saying the “youthful fruit evolves into spicier notes, and the tannins and oak integrate to reveal great suppleness.”  While many Oregon pinot noirs are simply too concentrated and rich to serve alongside a traditional turkey meal, the softness of this wine will complement the dinner well. 

Inman Endless Crush Rosé 2022 ($40).  Rosé adds great color to the table, it’s fun and it is versatile with food. Kathy Inman makes one of the best rosés in California and Endless Crush deserves the price.  Strawberry and watermelon notes. 

Kramer Vineyards Müller-Thurgau 2021 ($20).  The producer planted Müller-Thurgau and riesling grapes in the 1980s in Oregon’s Yamill-Carlton AVA. This dry version has guava and lychee flavors and a dash of spice. 

Convival Gamay Noir & Pinot Noir 2022 ($25). This blend from Oregon has bright and youthful red fruit flavors, perfect with cranberry sauce and turkey.  

Early Mountain Petit Manseng ($45). If you really want to recognize the history of Thanksgiving, a good choice would be a wine from Virginia.  Thomas Jefferson, an avid wine collector, was born in Virginia and lived much of his life at Monticello.  This relatively unusual grape variety shows off richness and texture. Another choice from this producer is the merlot-petit verdot blend Eluvium, a bit pricey at $90 but special. 

Nicolas & Jay L’Ensemble Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2021 ($70).  A cuvee of the most expressive barrels from eight vineyards, this pinot noir combines the best Oregon has to offer. Youthful, exuberant, bright fruit akin to cherries and cranberries. Silky texture makes it easy to drink. Burgundian in style. 

Wine picks 

Kirkland Casa Santos Lima Tinto Rouge Reserva 2017 ($15). From Portugual, this gem with bottle age provides a softly textured and energized wine with medium body and ripe red fruit flavors. It is a blend of touriga nacional, syrah, tinto roriz and alicante bouchet. If you can find one with less bottle age, it will probably be even better. 

Tenuta Sant’Antonio Nanfre Valpolicella DOC 2021 ($15).  Four brothers put family love into this simple, versatile blend of corvina and rondinella. Aged in stainless steel, it keeps the freshness. 

Ruffino Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 2018 ($40).  One of our perennial favorites, this is a blend of sangiovese with merlot and colorino making up 20 percent of the wine. Produced only in great vintages since 1947, it draws grapes from the producer’s Gretole estate.  Generous violet, cherry and cocoa aromas with plum and cherry flavors. 

Discover Australia’s Victoria region

November 6, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

Australia, the only country that covers an entire continent, makes tons of wine. Over the years we have tasted many of the best from the Barossa Valley, but the other regions have seemed more focused on mass-produced wines with few unique qualities.

One region that is an exception is Victoria, a southeastern state surrounding Melbourne just south of New South Wales.  Although the second smallest state in Australia, it is one of the most biologically diverse.  Perhaps its undulating terrain has discouraged mass wine producers, but instead it has attracted small, family winemakers who enjoyed the challenge of farming crops in soil that is a combination of decomposed granite, granite outcrops and clay bedrock. Wine productions are small, but what wine you can find on the American market is unique and delicious across the board. It is an area consumers need to discover.

Matt Fowles makes wines under various labels, including Farm to Table and Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch. If that name is not enough to draw your attention, his region is the rugged Strathbogie Ranges. With vineyards at an altitude ranging from 1,400 to 1,800 feet above sea level, he makes an extraordinary Farm to Table pinot noir that is the best we’ve tasted this year and for the ridiculous price of $18. Beyond its deceiving light color is a medium-bodied, elegent and balanced pinot noir – a pleasant relief from the robust and concentrated pinot noirs from California and Oregon.

In a recent Zoom interview with wine writers, Fowles said that serious pinot noir fans may overlook this style of pinot noir.  But pinot noir made on the U.S. West Coast regularly sells for more than $50 a bottle and stylistically they are not a quaffable or as elegant as this the 2021 Field to Table pinot noir.

The region’s diurnal temperature shifts allow the grapes to rest at night.  Not many regions in Australia have those conditions.

Yarra Valley makes a lot of great wine we have sampled over the years.  This time we were introduced to a Yering Station chardonnay and a blend of shiraz and viognier.  The Little Yering chardonnay is a steal at $22 a bottle – youthful and racy with bright acidity and melon, apple notes.

We adored the 2020 Yering Station Shiraz Viognier ($40). Its flavors seem to go on and on, starting with a huge bouquet of plum and spice aromas, moving to an array of red and dark fruits and ending with fine tannins and lingering acidity. 

The Rutherglen region in Victoria is famous for its fortified wines, particularly muscat. We enjoyed the non-vintage Chambers Rosewood Vineyards Muscat ($20/375ml).  Tawny red in color, it has a vibrant mouthfeel with a raisiny and dried fruit palate. This would be great wine to finish a holiday dinner. No food needed!

Nick Brown, who makes wine in this region under the St. Leonards and All Saints label, admits it’s a challenge to sell dessert wines that are high in alcohol, but producers are improving the packaging to make them more attractive and educating consumers about their value. He also said that there is a future in using them as a mixer in cocktails.

“We’re taking the stuffiness out and putting a fresh spin on it,” Brown said.

Markham

Markham Vineyards from Napa Valley is one of the few known best for its merlots.  While others have abandoned this unfairly maligned grape variety, Markham has embraced it.  We are thankful because they have been able to demonstrate what good wines can be made from this grape variety.

Much of its success is undoubtedly due to wine maker Kimberlee Nicholls, who this year is celebrating her 30th anniversary with Markham. Although she oversees a program that includes more than a dozen unique merlots, we recently tasted three that are worthy of consumer attention.

The 2021 Napa Valley Merlot ($30) is a good entry point of Markham’s signature style. Estate vineyards in Calistoga, Yountville and Oak Knoll AVAs supply the fruit for tis ripe and jammy merlot that is blended with a bit of cabernet sauvignon and malbec. 

The 2019 District Series Merlot ($57) from only Oak Knoll has bright cherry notes with nice tannins and a touch of herbs. It is entirely merlot.

We enjoyed the more complex 2018 Marked Parcels Merlot ($67) from the Yountville AVA in Napa Valley. The additional body age makes this a round, single-parcel and unblended merlot with jammy blackberry and black cherry flavors cloaked in chewy tannins.

Wine picks

Donnafugata Mille e una Notte Rosso 2018 ($91). From southwestern Sicily, this giant blend of nero d’avola, syrah and petit verdot shows off dark fruit and spicy notes with a hint of black pepper and herbs.  Fine tannins keep it drinkable, but it is a wine to pair with serious foods such as lamb and winter stews.

Sonoma-Cutrer The Cutrer Russian River Chardonnay 2021 ($36).  This estate-bottled, single-vineyard chardonnay has oak notes with rich baked apple and pear flavors accented by caramel, vanilla aromas. Soft and luscious.

Ram’s Gate Richards Vineyard Syrah 2020 ($80).  This brooding and rich syrah has herbal aromas and dense black berry fruit.  Good tannins make it a keeper or the perfect wine to match with beef or lamb.

Three Sticks One Sky Sonoma Mountain Chardonnay 2021 ($70). This wine although pricey impressed us with its elegance. Butterscotch and baked apple notes dominate with balanced acidity.                  

Chile’s new style of carmenere

October 30, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Over the years we have expressed our bias against carmenere, a grape variety once popular in Bordeaux but now grown almost exclusively in Chile. The commercially produced wines we tasted then just didn’t ring any bells. But a recent tasting of a flight of these wines has given us new hope. 

Credit winemakers who have blazed a new trail that makes these wines more approachable and balanced while still capturing the varietal flavors. 

In 1994 there were less than 25 acres of carmenere left in the Medoc. Once as popular as cabernet franc, the grape variety was determined less desirable by French winemakers. When phylloxera tore through the region, they replaced these vines with higher-yielding varieties.  

About the same time, French cuttings were making their way to Chile – but they were misidentified as merlot. It wasn’t until the mid-1990s when a French expert in identifying grape varieties broke the startling news to winemakers: they were growing carmenere, a cross between cabernet franc and gros cabernet. The visual distinction was carmenere grapes were crimson red in the fall. About a third of the merlot was misidentified, so in the field there was a mix of both varietals. That made for an interesting field blend. 

Imagine the embarrassment. Besides that, the dilemma was whether to continue the masquerade or own up to merlot’s true identity.  Even though some producers continued to produce the wine as merlot, gradually everyone chose honesty after Chile’s governing agricultural office intervened. 

Winemakers made the discovery a marketing strategy and embraced the grape that is as unique to Chile as malbec is to Argentina. Today, carmenere is Chile’s fourth most planted red grape varietal. 

Joaquin Hidalgo, perhaps the most respected wine critic in Chile, recently led a group of wine writers through six carmeneres that literally shocked us.  I expected to find the same overly vegetal, awkward versions I have tasted from most bulk producers.  Although these wines may be harder for consumers to find, they demonstrate the grape’s potential. 

Hidalgo said the classic style is riper. Riper grapes moderate the pyrazine qualities –  green bell pepper, jalapeno, grassiness and herbal aromas. But the new approach is to emphasize the spice and pyrazine qualities and provide a fresh, less ripe context with a good deal of spice. 

Pyranzine is very divisive in the wine world. We happen to love the underrated wines of Sociando-Mallet in Haut-Medoc, but the winemaker is constantly criticized for the green pepper character of his wine. Not everyone is going to like this characteristic. 

Vina San Esteban In Situ Carmenere Reserva 2020 ($13). Sourced from two vineyards in the Aconcagua Valley, this wine benefits from 18 days of maceration.  It is blended with 5 percent cabernet sauvignon. Black pepper with cassis, dark cherry flavors and a dash of dried herbs. Simple and quaffable. 

Morande Vitis Unica Carmenere 2021 ($20). Using grapes from a gravelly river bed in the Maipo Valley, this fruit-forward wine has blueberry and blackberry flavors with a generous, soft mouthfeel and spice. 

In Vina Luma Chequen Gran Reserva Carmenere 2020 ($17).  Blackberry flavors with red pepper notes and a hint of spice. 

Terra Noble CA2 2020 ($36). From the cool Colchagua region and aged 16 months in oak, the spice factor dominates this wine. Fresh plum and berry notes in a fruit-forward style with hints of dark chocolate and bell pepper. Very masculine  

Montes Wings Carmenere 2020 ($55).  This wine was a byproduct of a father-and-son disagreement on how carmenere should be made. This compromise adopts the new style but retains the classic. Red bell pepper aromas with round blackberry and blueberry flavors. 

Blaufrankisch 

It is commonly said that gewurztraminer’s problem is not the wine but the hard-to-pronounce name.  The same could be said about blaufrankisch, a grape variety common to Austrian but known around the world by different names: frankovka, franconia and, in the United States, limberger. 

A cross between gouais blanc and blaue zimmettraube, blaufrankisch is known for its spice and cherry flavors.  The two we recently tasted were couldn’t be any more different – a result of soil and region.  

The 2019 Gunter & Regina Triebaumer Blaufrankisch ($26) was velvety with floral aromas, sour cherry notes, spice and intense. 

The Birgit Braustein Leithaberg Ried Glawarinza Blaufrankisch ($57) had a much bigger body with serious tannins and dense blackberry and currant flavors with a dash of mineral. 

As we head into cooler weather, these are great wines to pair with stews, wild game and beef. 

Wine picks 

Conde Valdemar Reserva Rioja 2015 ($30). This is one of the best Riojas we have had in a long time – well worth the price, especially given its bottle age. A blend of tempranillo (79 percent), garnacha, graciano and maturana, the wine has effusive red berry flavors with hints of cassis, cocoa and spice.  A delightful wine by itself, it would perform well against pasta, tapas, burgers and more. 

Root:1 Carmenere Colchagua Valley 2022 ($12). Fresh berry and cherry notes make up this fresh and appealing wine.  

Ram’s Gate Richards Vineyard Syrah 2020 ($80). Drawing grapes from a small, special vineyard, the producer has a serious syrah with great depth and richness. Herbal and black pepper aromas give way to blackberry notes, firm tannins and good length.  This can be aged or served alongside beef. We loved it. 

Little Yering Victoria Chardonnay 2022 ($18). This Australian chardonnay is medium-bodied with melon and apple notes and a dash of citrus. 

Italy’s gems keep on scoring

October 23, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Italy is one of the most popular wine-growing regions and for good reason. It is the largest producer of wine in the world and its delicious wines are easy to find in the United States.  While we have encouraged consumers to try the emerging wines from Georgia, Uruguay, Croatia and Armenia, it is always comforting to go back the tested and steady regions like Italy. 

As Americans are traveling more often to this beautiful country, now is a good time to explore its many, diversified wine regions. 

Even though you think you know Italy, you probably have not tried all 350 authorized grapes it grows. Wine is made in every region of Italy, so there is always a new region to explore -- Sicily, Campania and Umbria – or return to the tried-and-true regions, such as Tuscany and Piedmont. 

Here is a roundup of some new wines we recently discovered from Italy: 

Lucente Toscana IGT 2020 ($26). Sangiovese and merlot go into this perennial favorite.  Medium body, soft on the palate and balanced, it has blueberry flavors. A great wine to serve alongside pasta and veal. 

Sapaio Toscana IGT 2019 ($94).  A very serious wine for the consumer who wants to step up their super-Tuscans.  It is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and cabernet franc. Ripe and forward cherry notes, easy tannins and hints of cigar box and herbs. 

Volpolo Bolgheri DOC 2021 ($36). A second label of Sapaio, this wine is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot. Floral aromas with cherry flavors.  

Luce Toscana IGT ($130). A partnership between Robert Mondavi and Vittorio Frescobaldi, this colossal wine is the proverbial iron fist in velvet glove. Complex, yet sophisticated, it has layers of black fruit and silky tannins. 

Querciabella Chianti Classico 2018 ($33). Made entirely of sangiovese, this is a delicious quaff that shows ripe, forward red fruit and elegant hints of lavender and spice. 

Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2018 ($70).  The all-sangiovese brunellos are much more accessible today than they were years ago. Although this wine can age a decade, it’s delicious now with intense red berry flavors and a hint of spice.   

Mazzei Ser Lapo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018 ($35). Mostly sangiovese, this wine is aged for 12 months in small French oak barrels. Black cherry and blackberry notes with hints of spice and leather. 

Villa Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 ($30). You can find this for a lot less if you watch sales. The 10 percent merlot softens the often-acidic sangiovese in this pleasant wine.  Cherry and blackberry notes with a dash of spice. 

Ruffino Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 ($40).  One of our perennial favorites, this is a blend of sangiovese with merlot and colorino making up 20 percent of the wine. Produced only in great vintages since 1947, it draws grapes from the producer’s Gretole estate.  Generous violet, cherry and cocoa aromas with plum and cherry flavors. 

Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva 2018 ($30-33). A long-lasting wine in the mouth with plum dried cherry and cedar notes. Soft tannins make this wine drinkable now.  

Carpineto Dogajolo Rosso Toscano IGT 2020 ($15-18). This a great value-oriented Tuscan table wine that is 80 percent sangiovese and 20 percent cabernet sauvignon.  Rich and round with a substantial mouth presence and plum and cherry notes. Not complicated, just a really good wine at a great price.  

Carpineto Dogajolo Bianco Toscana 2022 ($13-15). This refreshing Montepulciano blend of chardonnay, grechetto and sauvignon blanc is a nice treat for sipping. Generous citrus notes with brisk acidity and a clean mouthfeel.  

Bertani Valpolicella Ripasso 2020 ($30). Lovely cherry notes that is smooth on the palate and well balanced. 

New book on Central Coast 

Anyone planning a trip to California’s Central Coast would benefit from getting a copy of “Exploring Wine Regions: The Central Coast of California” by Michael C. Higgins. 

Higgins has written similar books on Bordeaux and Argentina, so he has the format down pat. There is a lot of detail about the wine growing region with a focus on 102 high-quality wineries in the region’s 27 sub-AVAs.  A reader gets to know the region’s attractions – places to stay and eat – as well as the grape varieties and climate. 

There are also good maps to help you navigate the local roads. 

Higgins took his own photos for this book and they are well beyond what you would expect from a cell phone camera. They make you want to book a trip now. 

Aviana wines 

C. Mondavi & Family have released its inaugural edition of Aviana wines meant to support women’s empowerment. The producer is majority woman-owned.  

Priced modestly at $20 a bottle, the three wines are sourced outside the United States.  A verdejo is from Spain, a red blend from Portugal and a cabernet sauvignon from southern France.   Although the Languedoc is not known for its cabernet sauvignon, it’s the one we liked the best.  

The label is enhanced with augmented reality. Hold your camera to the female figure and watch as she changes identity. 

Wine picks 

Crossbarn Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2021 ($40). A very nice mid-range priced pinot noir. Cherry and plum notes dominate with a hint of oak and pleasing acidity.  

El Coto Blanco Unoaked Viura Rioja 2022 ($12). Fresh, crisp quality with very pleasant citrusy flavors. This producer makes some of the best bargains in wine today.  Try their other varieties. 

Mascota Unanime Chardonnay Argentina 2020 ($20). One of the best chardonnays we have sampled from Argentina. Tasted like a big bold French oaked chardonnay from California that would cost a lot more. Butterscotch and lemon curd notes.  

Digging deep in Down Under

October 16, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

When you hear talk of old vines you think first of Europe. When researchers uncovered Pompeii, they discovered a thriving wine industry, and in Slovenia there are vines as old as 400 years. We recently wrote about wines from Armenia, a country that traces its vineyards to 4000 B.C. 

So, when a New World country talks about old vines, well, it’s relative. 

Nevertheless, old vines are significant in countries such as the United States and Australia where the wine industry was getting planted in the 18th century. 

Old-vine vineyards have been heralded for decades, but the definition of “old” has been elusive with some producers claiming a 25-year-old vine to qualify.  A new online resource, “Old Vine Registry,” inspired by wine critic Jancis Robinson, gives consumers an opportunity to track producers. In order to qualify for the registry, vines have to be at least 35 years old. 

A vine generally loses its vigor after 30 years and is on borrowed time after 50. But the fruit that emerges from these tired vines is usually more concentrated and rustic. They may not produce wine with body and tannin, but they are delicious, elegant wines to drink without further aging. 

In the United States, the grape with the oldest vines is zinfandel. In Spain, it’s garnacha. We’ve enjoyed many old-vine garnachas that cost less than $25 a bottle. 

We recently tasted several Australia wines taken from fruit grown on vines more than 100 years old.  They were a stunning accomplishment when you realize how these gnarled vines struggle to provide such little fruit each year. 

Australia’s wine industry began in 1788 when the first vines were planted in Sydney.  However, winemaking didn’t take off until the 1830s and 1840s when more grape growers became involved.  Plantings were taken from European vineyards before the root louse phylloxera decimated much of the continent’s wine crop.  Australia was able to flourish in the worst of times for diseased vineyards. Today, many of those vineyards continue to produce fruit, albeit much less. Equally historic, 5th and 6th generations continue to lead their families’ legacies. 

Old vines produce few leaves and shoots. The trunks are thick and the bark impressively textured. It’s hard to imagine they are still viable, but when you drink the result, you are appreciative that they haven’t been replaced by younger, more productive vines. 

Producers such as Henschke, Penfolds, Cirillo, Burge and Tyrrell capitalize on the unique quality and personality these old vineyards provide to such grapes as shiraz, grenache, mourvedre and even riesling. 

Here are a few we recently tasted: 

Tim Smith Barossa Shiraz 2021 ($38).  Barossa has some of the oldest vines in Australia and produce arguably its best wines.  This shiraz was absolutely stunning. Winemaker Tim Smith draws from old vines in as many as 12 vineyards from Barossa and Eden valley. Bright and effusive  

Yalumba Barossa Bush Vine Grenache 2021 ($22).  Made from bush vine vineyards planted from 1920 to 1976, this wine begins with lavender and raspberry aromas. Black cherry dominates the palate with hints of spice and a medium body. This is best enjoyed as an aperitif or alongside simple fare. Yalumba is Australia’s oldest family owned winery. 

Penley Estate Phoenix Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra 2021 ($21). Planted in 1988, these estate vineyards produce great cabernet for the price. A nice dollop of anise mingles with the blackcurrant the plum aromas to set the stage for a medium-bodied wine with easy dark fruit flavors. Winemaker Kate Goodman was named 2023 Winemaker of the Year by James Halliday’s Wine Companion. 

Pewsey Vale The Contours Riesling Eden Valley 2015 ($38). The bottle aging of this wine brings complexity and richness to the grape variety. The old vines are grown on the coolest slope in the vineyard. 

Dandelion Vineyards Legacy of Australia XXXO ($25). This non-vintage fortified dessert wine is a treat. Made entirely from pedro ximenez grapes grown on old vines in South Australia, the wine has an amber color with candied orange aromas and a sweet palate of white raisins, red fruit, molasses and spice. The Linder family has been making this special wine since 1944.  

Smoke-tainted wines 

It has been our experience that most consumers don’t pay much attention to vintages. As long as their daily plonk is on the shelf, they don’t dwell on whether it’s a 2018 or 2019. But they should dwell on 2020 because they not be able to find their favorite wine. 

The harvest was hampered by the lingering effects of COVID as workers were slowed by health guidelines.  More devastating in California were the wildfires that decimated crops at harvest time. The LNU Complex Fire, discovered Aug. 17, blazed a path through Napa, Sonoma, Yolo, Monterey and Lake counties. The Glass Fire that began on Sept. 27 ripped through Sonoma and Napa counties. 

St. Supery didn’t make any wines in 2020. Other famous producers whose wines exceed $200 a bottle also decided not to make wine for fear of ruining their brand integrity. Anyone who pays for an off wine at this price is not going to be forgiving if there is smoke taint in their wine. 

According to the California Association of Winegrape Growers, between 165,000 to 325,000 grapes were not harvested because of concerns for smoke exposure. Top producers chose not to make wine from the 2020 harvest while others hedged their bets, hoping a lab analysis would show no smoke taint. However, labs were so overwhelmed and the results not always reliable that wine producers found little confidence. 

A smoke-tainted wine would be like drinking from wet ashtray. It will be that obvious. We haven’t tasted any tainted wines from this vintage, but we’re on the lookout. Even though chemical analysis may not pick up volatile phenols or glycosides, we have to wonder if smoke taint won’t appear until years after the wine is opened.  

Given the forecast of future wildfires, researchers are working on methods to remove smoke taint. 

Wine picks 

Markham Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($24). Good, brisk acidity with varietal grapefruit and citrus notes complemented by minerality. 

Chevalier de la Cree Montagny 2020 ($35).  You would be hard pressed to find a premier cru from Burgundy as good as this for the price.  While California is charging twice as much for their chardonnay, this one from France is a bargain.  We loved it so much we bought a case. The tropical fruit character isn’t masked by oak, unlike many West Coast chardonnays. 

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($34).  We enjoyed this supple, broadly flavored blend of the musque clone of sauvignon blanc (78 percent) and old-vine semillon from Calistoga. Richly textured with citrus, melon and peach notes with a mineral finish. 

Will California tasting rooms make it in the future?

October 9, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

A recent column we wrote on the increase in tasting fees at California wineries struck a chord with many of you. We received several emails from wine consumers who fondly remembered their free sips in Napa Valley tasting rooms and, like us, wondered if the trend towards pricey tastings will inevitably kill the proverbial goose. 

Time will tell. 

Steve told us of the time he traveled to California wine country as a young man and being appalled by paying $5 for a tasting at Franciscan and $15 at Coppola. Today those prices would be a bargain. 

So far, the steep tasting fees do not seem a barrier for most folks.  According to a report from the Silicon Valley Bank, tastings were up 22 percent in Napa Valley last year despite an average tasting fee of $81. It was down 25 percent in Sonoma County.  But put this in perspective: improving numbers are still below that from pre-pandemic years.  Will it bounce back as the economy improves and consumers look for travel alternatives? 

As I talk to more wine enthusiasts who visited California, I hear more disappointment in the tasting room experience. Many said they pared back on the number of wineries they toured. The cost is staggering for a couple looking for a fun time: three winery stops for two people at an average cost of $81 a person is $486! That per diem cost is on par with Disney World.  

The tasting room experience is critical to wineries for reasons you can probably imagine if you’ve been there.  A person who engages with a friendly, knowledgeable staff feels a kinship that leads to shipping a case of wine home. That person may even join the producer’s wine club to keep the experience going with a fresh bottle of wine shipped home every month.  It’s a business recipe that works well for a wine producer who would rather pocket the profit than share it with a wholesaler and retailer.  

Club membership, however, is often short-lived. How many of you have had buyer’s remorse when you got home and wondered if the wine you ordered was the same as you tasted in California? Now you belong to another club of people who got swept up in the tasting experience and after a few glasses of wine managed to justify spending more money for a bottle than they would have spent back home in a more sober moment.  

A friend of ours got trapped in the moment and ordered a few bottles of $100-plus sauvignon to take back to the hotel.  Her husband was flabbergasted when she returned, but she said the winemaker was so sweet and the wine so good. 

Even though we’ve learned our lesson over the years, we still buckle to temptation. Sometimes the price is right and more often the wine cannot be found anywhere but the producer’s tasting room. 

Club memberships are a major component to the lucrative direct-to-consumer sales that have opened up after states dismantled their prohibitions to out-of-state alcohol shipments. Maryland, for instance, did so when wine enthusiasts from other states visited Maryland wineries and couldn’t ship home new discoveries that weren’t available in their home towns. 

Direct-to-consumer sales account for 68 percent of the sales of premium wineries, according to SVB.  

Although a lot of people join wine clubs, a lot quit after a couple of years.  This level of churn is alarming to wine producers who have ramped up promotions to make sure they are adding more customers than they are losing. One thing they promote is exclusive access to wines that are not distributed anywhere else or are produced in limited quantity. It’s hard to face down the temptation of a wine selection you fear won’t be available in local stores. 

Chalk Hill 

Chalk Hill is in the Class of 1972, a group of wineries founded that year in Sonoma County.  Chalk Hill AVA is a sub-appellation of the Russian River Valley AVA and is noted for its rolling hills. 

We’ve always known the producer for its consistently good sauvignon blanc, but it makes other wines – most notably an austere chardonnay we have grown to enjoy. 

Here are a few recent releases we liked: 

Chalk Hill Estate Sauvignon Blanc Chalk Hill Appellation 2022 ($27). Melon and herbal notes in the nose with flavors of melon, lemon, grass and a touch of honey. Very smooth and elegant. 

Chalk Hill Estate Windy Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($52). Using grapes from a single block at an elevation of 630 feet, the producer has teased more concentration and aromatics from rocky soil. Melon and stone fruit flavors abound with hints of lime and herbs. 

Chalk Hill Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2022 ($26). A real mouthful of pleasure with notes of apple, tropical fruit and some interesting cinnamon and spice elements. 

Chalk Hill Founders Block Chardonnay Chalk Hill AVA 2020 ($125). A very special chardonnay displaying melon and pineapple notes framed with lovely accents of cinnamon and nutmeg. Aged in 100 percent new French oak and displaying a creamy finish.   

Wine picks 

Dos Lusiadas Pinteivera Douro 2018 ($38).  We love discovering hidden gems from Portugal.  This one made from touriga nacional grapes is a collaboration between grape growers and Rhone Valley legend Michel Chapoutier. It is surprisingly concentrated with a violet aroma and dark fruit flavors with a hint of graphite. 

ONX Indie Rosé 2020 ($28). Inspired by indie movies, this tempranillo rosé has fresh and lively red fruit character with a dash of citrus. 

Dutcher Crossing Proprietor’s Reserve Petit Sirah 2018 ($36).  We loved the lush plum and huckleberry flavors with a shot of espresso in this dense and rich wine from Dry Creek Valley.   Dutcher Crossing makes a lot of zinfandel and Rhone-grape wines that deserve to be explored.  

Dutcher Crossing Bernier-Sibary Zinfandel 2018 ($50). Petite sirah, carignane and mataro go into this luxurious blend that is dominated by black cherry and plum notes. Generous aromatics and a hint of spice that makes zinfandel a great match to Thanksgiving fare.  

Harken Chardonnay Barrel Fermented California 2021 ($12-16). A boisterous, buttery and oaky chardonnay is for those that love this classic California style. Tropical fruit and toasty oak notes are definitely a great value and crowd pleasing.  

Root:1 Colchagua Valley Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Chile 2022 ($12). Citrus and pear dominate with refreshing acidity and a clean finish. Great value! 

Paul Hobbs strikes old in Argentina

October 2, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Paul Hobbs’ transition from California to Argentina was hardly smooth. 

A winemaker with impressive distinction at renown wineries such as Opus One, Simi and his own Paul Hobbs, was looking for a new adventure and chose South America because it was all the rave in the 1990s. Still in his 30s, he asked Jorge Catena, a UC Davis classmate and family member of Argentina’s respected Bodega Catena Zapata, to join him in visiting Chilean wineries. Little did he understand that Chilean winemakers have a bitter rivalry with their counterparts in Argentina and they did not take kindly to his companion. Hobbs was sent packing. 

Chile’s loss was Argentina’s gain. 

In the late 1980s, Hobbs joined Catena Zapata as a consultant and guided the family through a modernization of its winery. While there he discovered the potential of old vines in Mendoza and invested in his own winery, Vina Cobos, in 1990 with a focus on single-vineyard malbec. But his challenges were just beginning.  

Argentine winemakers were more interested in making lots of wine but very little good wine.  They were ripping up old vines that produced fewer grapes as they aged. Malbec was being grown in salty, sandy and over-hydrated soil. Excess vine vigor can reduce fruit quality but quantity is what they wanted from younger vines planted in the wrong soil. 

“Malbec is like a camel. It can drink a lot of water,” Hobbs said in a recent interview. 

Winery facilities were antiquated. Growers had no contracts and weren’t paid until long after harvest. Canopy wasn’t being managed well. The wines were oxidized and vegetal.  Turning this around was as slow as turning an aircraft carrier. 

“For 40 years, they fell behind in technology. These vineyards were beat up,” he said. “They weren’t concerned about quality.” 

Slowly, he integrated a number of changes that not only led to the fantastic Vina Cobos wines we taste today but he also established a new benchmark for quality.  

Hobbs first abandoned the soils in the foothills of the Andes and planted vines in places higher in elevation. He found the ideal soils and climate in Lujan de Cuyo on the outskirts of Mendoza city in western Argentina. Malbec in particular does well here in vineyards as high as nearly 4,000 feet. 

In the vineyards he opened the canopy to achieve even ripening, introduced drip irrigation to wean the grapes from excess water and concentrate the grapes, protected the grapes from hail with netting and reduced chemical spraying. 

“A lot was in our favor – soil and cooler climate in higher elevations,” Hobbs said. “But we had to push a lot of viticulturists to participate in that thinking.” 

He brought cuttings from California to start his 74-acre Domingo vineyard in 1992. 

“My quest was simple: very old vines,” he said. 

He said he didn’t know a lot about malbec and could hardly rely on current practices. He spent years introducing new concepts and testing the results before he was satisfied with his wine. 

Growers did not respect verbal agreements and initially sold fruit that was promised to him. 

“We asked them to do things they didn’t like,” he said. 

But Hobbs paid them well and incrementally so they didn’t have to wait until the end of the season to see money.  Now he has 40 vineyard owners working with him.  

It is interesting that the two top grapes grown here – malbec and cabernet franc – were historically blending grapes in Bordeaux. Although cabernet franc is gaining a foothold on its own, it’s only in Argentina where you see malbec prosper without the company of other grapes.  Hobbs attributes the success to soil and climate.   

Hobbs has several labels representing his covey of vineyards, but among those at the top of the heap are the single-vineyards we recently tasted. 

Especially impressive is the 2019 Vina Cobos Chanares Estate Malbec ($100), a complex and opulent wine that goes far beyond the $15 malbecs most people buy.  It has raspberry and cigar box aromas and red fruit flavors with balanced acidity, long finish and fine tannins.  The 2019 Vina Cobos Vinculum Malbec ($70) is also tasty with forward, fresh red fruit character and not as complex. 

We love cabernet franc and we were not disappointed in the 2019 Vina Cobos Chanares Estate Cabernet Franc ($100). The herbal and minty aromas are seductive.  

The Chanares Estate vineyard is about 3,900 feet in elevation. The diurnal temperature swing cools off the grapes at night. Poor and well-drained soils are nurtured by drip irrigation. 

These prestigious wines come at a high price, but they demonstrate the quality that can come from a grape we really never respected until now.  Hobbs is making a difference in Mendoza. 

Halloween wine 

For more than a decade Flora Springs has created a special Halloween wine with some of the most dynamic labels on the wine market. The genius behind the 2021 version of The All Hallows’ Eve Cabernet Franc ($75) is comic book illustrator Steve Ellis who collaborated with General Manager Nat Komes.  Full moon, black crow and eerie pumpkin-headed figure pulls you in.  But even better is the pure cabernet franc behind the label. It has body and forward blackberry notes with hints of vanilla and herbs. It is available on the producer’s web site. Get your boo on. 

Wine picks 

Marques de Caceres Verdejo Rioja 2022 ($13). We loved the liveliness of this crisp and refreshing verdejo. White peach notes with a dash of citrus and minerality. 

Marques de Caceres Rioja Crianza 2018 ($20). Tempranillo is a great partner to grilled burgers, pasta and other light fare. This one had blackberry and plum notes with hints of cloves and licorice. 

Umani Ronchi Villa Bianchi Verdicchio 2022 ($13). Supple pear and mineral aromas with vibrant pear and almond flavors. 

ONX Reckoning 2018 ($58). A blend of syrah, petite sirah, malbec and grenache, this Paso Robles giant of a wine has deep, dense flavors of strawberries and raspberries with layers of accents, such as leather, chocolate, cedar and spice. Delicious. 

ONX Caliber 2019 ($65). Seventeen percent of malbec is added to moderate the explosive cabernet sauvignon from this Templeton Gap wine. Broad aromatics of pepper and blackberry hand off to a luxurious palate of ripe plums with a big dose of anise. This is a wine to pair with a juicy steak. 

The delicious blends of Virginia

September 25, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

There is a strong reason why many of the finest wines in the world are blends of different grapes. While selecting one grape to star in a particular wine can be appealing, blending two or more varieties allows greater creativity to the winemaker and flexibility to accommodate the vagaries of challenging vintages.  

Utilizing a single grape can spotlight the suitability and star potential of a grape from a given region. Blending allows for the winemaker to pursue the elusive goal of harmony. A single varietal wine only allows for a relatively small number of variables, whereas a blended wine can allow for an almost endless number of inputs to craft the winemakers goal.  

Virtually all winemaking regions use multiple grape combinations. Bordeaux, Rioja and Tuscany are just a few areas that produce red blends. 

Blends are particularly popular in Virginia.  A tasting of Virginia’s meritage-style blends showed a stylistic contrast that we found intriguing. All of the wines were made using the classic five red Bordeaux grapes.  

Overall, the Virginia efforts seemed to fall somewhere between France and the West Coast, and would be a very credible competitor in any comparison. We noted that the meritage blends offered a bit more complexity than single-grape wines and they delivered, an elegant smooth experience for the drinker.  

Following are our impressions of the Virginia blends. While not in bargain basket territory, we believe they compared well with similar priced offerings from California or Bordeaux. Mountain and Vine Delfosse Vineyards and Winery Screaming Hawk Meritage Faber Monticello 2021 ($60). A pleasing blend of 50 percent petite verdot, 30 percent cabernet sauvignon, with the balance equal amounts of cabernet franc and malbec. It was the winner of the 2023 Virginia Governors Cup. Notes of just ripe berries, tobacco and a hint of gaminess create an impressive package for consumers. Jefferson Vineyards Meritage Charlottesville Monticello AVA 2019 ($50). The blend is 45 percent merlot, 40 percent petite verdot with cabernet franc and malbec rounding out the blend. Very elegant with plum and tobacco elements create a meritage that over delivers. Pollak Vineyards Meritage Alton Monticello AVA 2017 ($45). We really liked this effort from Pollak Vineyards. Our first impression was this was a high quality Pomerol or St. Emilion from Bordeaux. Beautiful cherry and sweet plum notes with a hint of cedar make up a very classy red wine with 60 percent cabernet franc, 24 percent merlot and 16 percent petite verdot. Trump Winery New World Reserve Charlottesville Monticello AVA 2019 ($54). Love or hate the former president, his winery produces some of Virginia’s finest vinifera wines. Owned by his son Eric, Trump Winery is Virginia’s largest boasting 227 acres of vines. We found this meritage, like the two previous wineries mentioned above, offered a very elegant, easy-to-drink wine that sported plum, cedar and tobacco elements. A very classy wine that earned a gold medal at the Virginia Governors Cup. 

Sulfite wines 

As Americans flood the European continent along with everyone else in the world, major tourist sites will bulge with too many people in too little space. Witness the lines at the Louvre in Paris or the mob scene at the Vatican. Tourists return with tales of local delicacies, amazing sites and inevitably wines.  

Some of these wines are coming from regions once off the American’s radar. Travelers are discovering wines from Croatia, Santorini and Portugal. Often these wines are not available outside of the country or region where they are made. So, if you fall in love with a wine experienced in a small-out-of-the way corner during your travels, it may be worthwhile to bring a few bottles home.  

What is not worth the effort is to bring back sulfite-free wines from Europe. Many American tourists mistakenly believe that European wines don’t contain sulfites because they don’t have the warning label they see on U.S. wines. 

Sulfites occur naturally during fermentation. Most winemakers also add sulfites (sulfur dioxide) to inhibit oxidation and microbiological growth. Without this addition, wines can be unstable and spoil. Sulfites are valuable except for the one percent of the population that are allergic.  Countless references available online document that sulfites both naturally produced and added are ubiquitous in all wine producing nations. International wine brands sold in both Europe and the U.S. are treated identically with sulfites. The only difference is the labelling. Anecdotally we have also heard from some tourists visiting vineyards that European winemakers, perhaps to encourage sales, don’t disabuse Americans of this misinformation about sulfites.  

Wine picks 

Fleur De Prairie Rose Languedoc 2022 ($20). Crafted from mostly grenache and syrah, this wine comes in a stylized curvy bottle. Very pale pink but presents big and rich in the mouth with delicate cherry notes.  

Susana Balbo Signature Torrontes Barrel Fermented Valle De Uco Mendoza 2022 ($28). An amazing exposition of the torrontes grape. Floral notes with herbal grassy elements side with passion fruit and lime. Intense and very intriguing.  

La Nerthe Les Cassagnes Rose Cotes-Du-Rhone 2022 ($18). A blend of grenache mourvedre, and cinsault, this wine presents lemon lime and cherry notes in a smooth, rich mouth filling package. One of the best roses of the season.  

Otronia 45 Degrees Pinot Noir Patagonia 2019 ($40-45). This is a very good pinot noir from the cool wilds of Argentina’s Patagonia. Cherry and rhubarb notes are presented in a style that is unique to this area.  
 

The wines of ancient Georgia and Armenia

September 18, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

What’s old can be new, especially in winemaking. Fermentation and aging in concrete tanks -- once popular in France in the 1950s and 60s -- gave way to stainless steel fermentation and  aging tanks in the 1980s. Today we see the use of concrete back in vogue in Europe and the U.S. Advocates for concrete cite concretes porosity and neutral quality to enhance the natural flavors in wine.  

The country of Georgia produces wines with a twist: fermented and aged in qvevri or clay amphora-like vessels buried in the ground. The difference between the current interest in concrete fermentation vessels and this clay amphora is that the inhabitants of this former member of the USSR have been utilizing this technique for 8,000 years.  

While only about 10 percent of Georgian wines are produced in qvevri, Georgia is the best known country using this technique due to its long history with it.  

Georgian wine producers also make white wines using a technique that is unknown in most winemaking regions. Instead of crushing the white grapes and separating the skins, seeds and stems, Georgian winemakers sometimes ferment everything from the grapes together, creating a unique white wine. The result is a wine that is frequently referred to as an orange wine because of its coppery orange hue. In addition to the color difference, the orange wine takes on a more substantial flavor profile, frequently expressing the tannins from the grape skins and seeds. To some these wines are an acquired taste but we find them appealing after pairing them with food.  

Following are the Georgian qvevri wines we tasted and enjoyed:  

Baia’s Tsolikouri Qvevri Georgia 2021 ($27-30). This is a light colored very dry wine with a touch of spritz. Peach and pear notes with a hint of lemon in a very palate cleansing style. Made by a Baia Abuladze, this is her only qvevri wine and it is made from 3 indigenous grape varieties.  

Askaneli Muza Qvevri Orange Dry Wine Georgia 2019 ($37-42). This qvevri wine is a bit unusual in that it is finished in oak barrels. Made from 5 indigenous white grape, it expresses apricot and orange notes with mild tannins in a medium bodied style.  

Teliani Valley Glekhuri Kisi Qvevri Kakheti Georgia 2020 ($22-25). Made from 100 percent kisi grapes. Light tannins with a pleasant astringency, this wine displays apple and peach notes in a light honey colored package.  

Armenian wines 

Like Georgia, Armenia is a country that is emerging in the New World with grapes found nowhere else.  

Voskehat and haghtanak are varieities difficult to pronounce let alone find in other wine-growing regions. Yet they produce wines with interesting flavors not tasted in chardonnay and other popular wines. 

In the wind-swept vineyards high in the mountains, the vines grow in bushes low to the ground – similar to what we have seen in Greece and in the Canary Islands. The wines we recently tasted have unique characteristics that don’t compare to French varieities. Still, they are enticing for their freshness. 

Armenia is one of the oldest wine regions in the world -- an ancient cave found in the Areni region dates back to 4000 BC.  When it was part of the Soviet Union, brandy and sherry were commonly produced, but none of it was exported to the West. Two wars interrupted wine production. But once the Soviet Union dissolved in 1991, Armenian producers began to export their wines. However, by then, Italy, Spain and France were flooding the New World with their own wines.  Armenia struggled to gain a foothold in the market here. 

Today, however, Armenian wines are available in 30 states and online at www.storicawines.com. 

Located between Turkey, Georgia, Iran and Azerbaijan, its wine regions are spread along its southwest border in vineyards up to 5,500 feet. 

We were surprised by the wines we tasted. They may not have the complexity of French wines, but they are lean, elegant and refreshing.  Here are a few we tasted: 

Keush Blanc de Blanc ($40).  Having been disappointed by sparkling wine made in unfamiliar regions, we didn’t expect much from this version made from voskehat and khatouni grapes. Low expectations, high rewards.  It was a broad expression of apple fruit with hints of toasty yeast, hazelnut and vanilla. 

Noa White Blend 2021 ($30). This wine is planted at the base of Mount Ararat at the border between Turkey and Armenia. This wine, a blend of voskehat and khatouni, is inspired by a biblical reference in Genesis. Unoaked, it is simple and food-friendly with pear notes. 

Shofer Areni Red Blend 2020 ($20). Also made from areni grapes, this wine has a floral bouquet and cherry, plum flavors. Fine tannins and a hint of spice. 

Van Ardi Estate Red 2019 ($28). This tasting blend of areni, haghtanak and milagh grapes shows off young red berry character with a good dose of chocolate. 

Wine picks 

Chalk Hill Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2022 ($25). You get a lot for your money in this well-balanced and rich chardonnay.  Pear flavors with a dash of spice. 

Ferrari-Carano Fume Blanc 2022 ($21).  We have seen this on the market for significantly less. One of the first two wines the producer started with 40 years ago, the sauvignon blanc has copious pineapple and white fruit aromas with fresh peach, pineapple and citrus flavors. 

Louis M. Martini Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($55).  Always a solid performer that sells for less than other premium cabernets from Napa Valley, this wine has fruit-forward, richly textured character.  Generous cedar and vanilla aromas with dark fruit flavors and a hint of anise. 

Conde Valdemar Crianza Tempranillo Rioja 2018 ($20).  Break out the tapas for this incredibly delicious and well-priced blend of 89 percent tempranillo, 7 percent mazuelo and 4 percent graciano. Try to stop at one glass – it's that good. Blueberry aromas with blackberry and black currant flavors. Rich and dense, it would do well with a tuna appetizer. 

Tasting rooms are charging you more to sip

September 11, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 
 

We remember a time not that long ago when California wineries welcomed you with open arms – no charge for a tasting, maybe even a second pour with the hopes you will buy a bottle to go. That Napa Valley train has left that station. Tastings now cost you significant money and you need an invitation just to open the door. 

If you are planning to return to California soon, be prepared for a lot of changes in the tasting rooms. According to the well-respected annual “Direct to Consumer Report” from the Silicon Valley Bank, Napa Valley producers are charging an average $81 for a basic-level tasting – up $21 from last year. A flight of premium wines will easily exceed $100 for one person. 

If you decide to buy a bottle at a Napa Valley winery, be aware that the average price is $108 -- a new threshold for Golden State producers – up $17 from 2022. 

The price of vineyards and grapes continues to rise in the nation’s most respected wine region where consumers wait for years to buy some of the most sought-after wines that cost $300-$500 a bottle. 

Furthermore, it is more difficult to walk into a tasting room without a reservation, so planning your visit well ahead of time is essential. According to the SVB report, nearly 60 percent require reservations – a relatively new concept that started after wineries reopened their doors following the state-ordered closure from the covid pandemic. Before the pandemic, only 17 percent of producers required reservations. 

Other wine growing regions are not quite as demanding or costly.  The average bottle price in Sonoma County is $57 a bottle and the average price of a base-level tasting is $38.   

Not surprisingly, the number of visitors to Napa wineries is down 19 percent since 2018, but it appears visitors are slowly coming back in increased numbers. Sonoma, Paso Robles and Santa Barbara, however, experienced a decline in visitors from 2021 to 2022. 

Has Napa Valley killed the goose that laid the golden egg in the Golden State? Tasting room numbers seem to indicate a reluctance to pay lofty prices just to taste a wine, not to mention buy a bottle. But experts say there is an abundance of affluent consumers who are seeking pent-up wine tasting experiences without traveling overseas. The average sales deal in a Napa Valley tasting room is $488! 

Also down is the number of people who order wines on line – a bonanza for producers during the covid pandemic. While direct sales fell in volume, the average price of shipped wine rose 2.3 percent since 2021.  The sweet spot for direct-to-consumer sales is a whopping $70 to $90. 

We have heard from readers seeking value wines, but in general they are not coming from Napa Valley any more. Paso Robles and Mendocino, for instance, are still good for less expensive wines but even those sell for more than $20 a bottle – a threshold few consumers want to cross for a daily wine. 

Perhaps the best deal is coming from Viriginia, a region getting more respect every year.  An average tasting here is only $18 a person and the average cost of a Virginian wine is an affordable $32. The vineyards in Old Dominion are just as remarkable. 

Appassionata Vineyards 

We recently discovered Willamette Valley wine producer Appassionata Vineyards.  Predictably for Oregon, it produces a pinot noir but surprisingly it also crafts a world-class riesling.  

This is probably because Ernest Loosen, owner of the Germany’s world-renowned Dr. Loosen winery and producer of some of Germany’s finest riesling wines, is involved in this project. 

The European influence includes extended aging and oak barrels that Loosen applies in Germany.  

We first tasted the Appassionata Vineyards Riesling GG Chehalem Mountains 2017 ($50). Loosen believes in extended aging and delivers here. A very big impressive riesling the wine delivers deep baked apple and complex mineral notes in an amazingly delicious package. The GG refers to “Grosses Gewachs” which in Germany means wines of the finest quality and fermented in a dry style.  

The Appassionata Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Allegro 2019 ($95) is a very big style pinot noir that can stand up to any food. Deep rich black cherry and plum elements with a hint of dried cherry as well. Amazingly good and delicious. 

Wine picks 

Tournon Mathilda Victoria Shiraz ($21).  Another brilliant venture by Michel Chapoutier, Domaine Tournon is located in Victoria on the southeastern side of Australia.  Organically farmed and in diverse soils, the shiraz has all the markings of this gifted winemaker. Lively black fruit aromas lead off the rich and supple fruit character.  

C.K. Mondavi Family Select California Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($16). With several of the fourth-generation family members steering this historic property, the products are always solid but not necessarily from specific vineyards.  Mondavi draws grapes for this wine from Lodi, Yolo and Napa Valley.  A good value and very approachable, it is juicy with ripe plum and cherry notes with a hint of vanilla. 

Bouchaine Estate Chardonnay 2019 ($36). This buttery and delicious chardonnay shows off nectarine and stone-fruit flavors with hints of lime and lemon curd.  

Chronic Cellars Sir Real Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($17).  The petite sirah and syrah that is blended into this Paso Robles wines give it considerable dimension with a riper character and smoothness. Plum and dark cherry notes with a hint of cocoa and tobacco. 

Truth Myth Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($24). Ripe dark red fruit flavors with a hint of pepper and dark chocolate. 

Chronic Cellars Paso Robles Suite Petite 2021 ($17). Ripe blackberry and blueberry flavors with a dose of dark chocolate and spice. Big and bold for current drinking, this is a fun wine. 

Mon dieu! The French are dumping wine

September 4, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

News channels have been abuzz over the recent decision by the French government to stem the crisis facing French wine producers by paying them to dump their wines and uproot some of their vineyards. It is an unfathomable concept, given the history of revered wine meccas such as Bordeaux, but it’s not unprecedented nor is it an impromptu crisis of nature’s making. 

The crisis is a combination of increased production and decreased consumption. Because of a good crop and a built-up of inventories from the covid-19 pandemic, production is up 4 percent. But as the younger generation of French turn to alternative beverages, per capita consumption is down 15 percent. Over the last decade, wine consumption in France has dropped 32 percent. 

Consumers in the U.S. drank about 3.3 gallons per person in 2002; in France it was about 12 gallons. That’s hard to believe for people as old as us who remember wine being the beverage of choice in France in the 1980s. Today, it’s water. 

According to French Agricultural Minister Marc Fesneau, the French government will pay wine producers $215 million to sell about 400 million bottles of surplus to pure alcohol and sell to makers of perfume, hand sanitizer and cleaning liquids. More money will be given to grape growers to rip up vines and replace them with alternative crops, such as olives. 

You may have been hoping they would just reduce prices and give consumers a better deal on some great wines. Perhaps a better alternative is to follow a unique concept of several American entrepreneurs who buy up excess stock and rebrand a less expensive wine under a different name. Cameron Hughes and de Negoce are good examples.  However, lower prices could drive producers into bankruptcy and the government is well aware of those dangers to one of its top – and most emblematic – industries. There will be no deals. 

Bordeaux will be uprooting more than 23,000 acres of wine this year. Producers in southern France are in the same predicament. And this issue is not unique to France: consumption is off a whopping 34 percent in Portugal, one of the countries with the highest per capita consumption in the world. 

While the news is currently focused on France because of the government’s draconian intervention, producers in this country could be faced with a similar dilemma. Consumption has been slightly decreasing yet there are more producers of wine. Fortunately, most of the producers make less than 2,000 cases a year – a quantity much easier to sell. But now that the average price of Napa Valley is now more than $100 a bottle, average consumers will be looking elsewhere for their daily plonk.  

We do not know what it will take to reverse the trend. Consumption soared in the early 1990s after “60 Minutes” aired “The French Paradox” that associated wine with good health.  Now, health experts are not quite so sure.  Add to this the fact that new generations that aren’t as caught up in a wine culture and you have a globally challenging future for all wine producers. 

Rombauer 

Rombauer Vineyards needs no introduction to California wine lovers. Its chardonnay is iconic, and sometimes the demand makes it hard to find.  

Still family-owned, the winery was officially founded in the early 1980s by Koerner and Joan Rombauer, and was led by them until their deaths in 2018 and 2002 respectively. The winery produces wine from grapes grown in the Napa Valley, Sonoma Valley, Carneros, Sierra Foothills and Lake County.  

We recently tasted some of their other wines which are a sure bet for consumer who enjoy the fruity, buttery expression.  

The first was the Rombauer Sauvignon Blanc North Coast 2022 ($30). It has an appealing blend of citrusy grapefruit and peach/melon notes from what appears to be a blend of warmer grown fruit and fruit from a cooler climate. The blend presents a nice yin and yang in the mouth and a smooth finish.  

We also tasted the Rombauer Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 ($75). This classic Napa Valley offering begs for a juicy steak. Aged in French oak, this wine features notes of berry, cherry, vanilla and cedar. Very drinkable now and for at least the next 5 to 10 years.  

One of the stars of the brand are their several iterations of zinfandel. We tasted the Rombauer Zinfandel California 2020 ($38). A classic, old-school California zinfandel, it sports notes of blackberry, black raspberry and a hint of oak. Very rich and flavorful and a perfect match for summer barbecues. Although it is nearly 16 percent in alcohol, it doesn’t drink hot.  

Jordan  

Located in Sonoma County, Jordan is a family-owned winery that produces only two wines: Alexander Valley cabernet sauvignon and Russian River Valley chardonnay. Both are classic examples of earlier California wines from the 1970s when Jordan was founded. You will not find explosive fruit notes or a heavy dose of oak in their releases. Instead, you will find elegance and balance that match perfectly with fine cuisine.  

We tasted two new releases:  

Jordan Chardonnay Sonoma County Russian River Valley 2021 ($42). A very elegant well- balanced effort. Apple and pear notes are accented in a light touch of toasty oak. A wine to accompany almost any fish or fowl dish.  

Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County Alexander Valley 2019 ($60). A beautiful, medium-bodied red wine with a hint of herbs along with the cassis and cherry notes. Just a bare hint of wood. A great balanced table wine that will not overshadow fine food. 

Wine picks 

Landmark Vineyards Overlook Pinot Noir 2021 ($27). This is a terrific value in a category of wines that continues to see escalating prices. Generous red cherry and plum notes with hints of spice and leather. Medium body and ready to drink with summer fare. 

Decoy Alexander Valley Limited Merlot 2021 ($30). Part of the vast Duckhorn portfolio, Decoy has one of the best quality price ratios in the industry. This merlot has intense black cherry fruit with a dash of dried herbs and spice. Good palate weight makes it a nice match to barbecued foods. 

Tangent Edna Valley Albarino 2022 ($17).  If you are looking for something different than chardonnay or sauvignon blanc, albarino is a good call. Indigenous to Spain, it is also grown in California. This Edna Valley version has the same citrus aromatics but adds some tropical fruit notes that we don’t find in the Spanish version.  Nice mineral notes as well. 

How to justify paying dearly for wine

August 28, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

It doesn’t take much of an effort for us to justify splurging on an expensive wine once in a while. We’re getting old, the world is falling apart and life’s too short to waste on bad wine. Yada, yada. Surely you know the drill: one part of your brain (or your spouse) is telling you it’s a waste to buy that Corvette, a new boat or an Apple watch. But you manage to come up with reasons -- the old car is dying and this is my last hurrah, I’ll spend more time on the water than on vacation, a new watch will make me punctual.  

That’s the circuitous route our logic takes on the way to the wine store.  But we think we have a logical reason to spend more on wine – really! See if this works for you. 

When we take our wives out for dinner at a nice restaurant, we select a wine that commonly costs $50 or more.  It’s getting harder and harder to find restaurant wine for anything less. At a 400 percent markup, you’re buying a very cheap wine at $50. We can get the same bottle in a retail store for half the price. So, if we take that $50 we’re willing to spend in a restaurant and buy a great wine from a local retailer, add a couple of filets and light some candles, we have a great dinner with a wine we really like.  Maybe we have to forego the ambience and service of a ritzy restaurant and, okay, we have dishes to wash at the end. But we got a $50 wine with no restaurant markup. 

In recent weeks, we’ve come across several great wines at $50-$70 a bottle that made us wince at the cash register. But now that we’re in retirement with a manageable nest egg, we can splurge once in a while.  

This twisted logic came to mind at a recent tasting of several Rhone-style blends from Paso Robles. We were blown away by a 2014 grenache-syrah blend from Law Vineyards.  We correctly identified the grapes in a blind tasting but thought it was a Chateauneuf du Pape. Alas, it cost $70. Thankfully, we didn’t favor the Saxum which cost more than $200.  

Unfortunately for consumers, the prices of the best wines are rising as fast as a river in spring. The best wines from Napa Valley are easily passing the $200 threshold with the average price now at $108. Frankly, that’s a threshold we haven’t crossed and most likely won’t. Land prices, oak barrels and consumer demand is driving this maddening trend. 

While there are still bargains to be had in other regions, consumers will have to spend more money to get more quality.  We are delighted when we find a luscious Rioja for less than $20 and a Chilean sauvignon blanc that marries well with food for $15. But for that special occasion, we’re going to bust it open – and save money by not dining out as often. 

Here are a few steak wines: 

Newton Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($59). Eliminating the filtration gives wine more pure fruit character and this is a good example. Sourced from estate vineyards in Napa Valley, this complex wine has cherry aromas with blackberry and plum flavors. Petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc play cameo roles. 

Obsidian Ridge Volcanic Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($38). Tom was vacationing in Colorado recently and was looking for a dinner wine. Remembering this from years ago, he picked up a bottle – then came back the next day for another.  It costs more nowadays, thanks to its success and high ratings, but it is still equal to a similar wine at twice the cost.  Malbec, petit sirah, petit verdot and syrah are blended with the cab to produce a complex and lively wine with wild black berries and minerality.  It is aged entirely in Hungarian barrels, so you won’t find the vanilla character often found in French barrels. The volcanic soil is also an influence on this terrific wine from Lake County’s Red Hills. 

Jordan Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($58). Twenty percent of this wine comes from a combination of merlot, petit verdot and malbec. Good depth with black cherry and raspberry notes with an intriguing combination of herbs and spice. 

Viader Napa Valley Proprietary Red Blend 2016 ($195).  Delia Viader leans heavily on cabernet franc (36 percent) to support the cabernet sauvignon in this elegant and rich blend. She is joined in this effort by her son Alan who is equally committed to producing high-quality wine from their Howell Mountain vineyard estate. The cabernet franc bolsters the floral aromas and tames the cabernet franc to make it enjoyable in its youth.  Rich black cherry and plum flavors with a hint of chocolate. 

Quilceda Creek Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($200). Now in its 40th vintage, this most famous, all-cabernet-sauvignon from Columbia Valley will surely score another victory to add to its massive record: seven 100-point scores from the Wine Advocate, one 100-point rating from Decanter and three Top 10 Wines of the Year from the Wine Spectator. It’s trick? Best grapes, French oak barrels and great winemaking. Concentrated black fruit, floral and herbal aromas open to ripe plum, blackberry and currant flavors. A wine doesn’t get much bigger than this, but surprisingly its fruit-forward style makes it enjoyable now or 20 years from now. 

Wine picks 

El Coto Crianza Rioja 2019 ($12). Made from 100 percent tempranillo grapes, it has vanilla and cherry notes with a round, easy to quaff style. 

Art of Earth Organic Chardonnay Argentine 2021 ($12).  This wine from Mendoza may not seem like a chardonnay to you, but the wine’s pure, unfettered style is delicious for the price. 

Art Of Earth Organic Cabernet Sauvignon Argentina 2021 ($13). A very enticing wine at a great price and its organic to boot. Bright fruit notes of berry and cherry with a hint of olive in the nose. Cheap and cheerful.  
 

Summer roses and a dash of Montepuliciano

August 21, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

With the heat enveloping the country, it’s time to head indoors with a nice glass of rosé.  We have been writing about this category all summer, but we continue to come across rosés that are versatile matches to summer fare. Although the wine can be found for less than $20 a bottle, today we offer some recommendations that are a little more expensive but deliver a lot more flavor. 

Here are a few we recently found: 

Bouchaine Estate Vin Gris of Pinot Noir 2022 ($29). We loved the juicy Carneros fruit flavor that emerges from this lovely wine. Generous aromas and layers of red berry flavors, including strawberries and cherries. Long in the finish. 

Quivira Dry Creek Valley Wine Creek Ranch Rosé 2022 ($30).  The complexity of this broadly flavored rosé comes from its blend: grenache, primitivo, counoise, petit sirah and mourvedre. Light salmon color, it has grapefruit and strawberry notes with a hint of orange zest and peach. 

Frank Family Vineyards Leslie Rosé 2022 ($50). More complex than most California rosés, this pinot noir rosé vibrant red berry flavors with a dash of citrus. 

Chateau Ste Michelle Indian Wells Rosé 2022 ($20).  We loved the spirit of this Columbia Valley rosé  made from a blend of syrah, grenache, cabernet sauvignon, mourvedre and counoise.. Pale in color with bright watermelon and peach flavors.   

Conde Valdemar Rioja Rosé 2022 ($18). The blend for this tasty rosé is 85 percent garnacha and 15 percent viura.  Very lively with fresh strawberry flavors. 

Balletto Rosé of Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2022 ($25).  This was a favorite in a flight of rosés we recently tried. Abundant in cherry and citrus fruit with brisk acidity and balance.  It was delicious. 

Mathilde Chapoutier Cotes e Provence 2023 ($20). Mathilde is the 8th generation in this historic property.  The wine has a delicate pink hue, generous citrus aromas with grapefruit and white peach flavors.  Good structure and just what you want in a rosé from Provence. 

Dutcher Crossing Rosé of Grenache 2022 ($39). Purely grenache, this Dry Creek Valley rosé is exquisite.  It is whole-cluster pressed to open up white peach and jasmine aromas.  The flavors are long and deep with citrus, tangerine and cherries. 

Domaine Gassier Bris de Grenache 2022 ($20). Influenced by the breezes from the Mediterranean, this blend of grenache and mourvedre from the Costieres de Nimes bursts with copious strawberry and cherry flavors.  

Conde Valdemar Rioja Rosé 2022 ($18). This is an excellent, juicy blend of garnacha and viura grapes. Rosé petal aromas with fresh raspberry and strawberry flavors. 

Clos Ste. Magdeleine Cassis Rosé 2021 ($45).  Sipping rosé at a seaside café in Cassis is what comes to mind when we sip this perennial favorite of ours. It’s a beautiful French town along the Med to enjoy rosé at its best. The wine is an unusual blend of ugni blanc, claudette, marsanne and sauvignon blanc. 

Montelpulciano d’Abruzo 
 

Most wine drinkers have experienced a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a red wine made from montepulciano grapes from the Abruzzo region of east central Italy.  The region is framed by the Apeninne Mountains to the west and the Adriatic Sea to the east. The bulk of Montepulciano d’ Abruzzo wines are in the “cheap and cheerful” category ($10-20) and work perfectly for Friday night pizza or hamburgers. Most display smooth tannins and plummy notes as well as a touch of cherry.  

The montepulciano grape is not to be confused with two relatively close towns of the same name. Across the Apennine mountains to the northeast of Abruzzo in Tuscany is the town of Montepulciano that produces a well-known red wine from sangiovese grapes. The wine Vino Nobile di Montepulciano bares no relation to the montepulciano grape. To further confuse consumers, not far to the east of Montepulciano lies the Tuscan town of Montalcino that crafts a famous sangiovese based wine known as Brunello di Montalcino.  

Putting all of this geography aside, we recently had the opportunity to taste two Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines that clearly stood out from the bulk of these wines available. Sometimes spending a bit more for a certain wine can pay off and we think these two did.  

Offered in the $30-35 range, we were impressed by their overall quality and ability to deliver on the palate.  

Following are our tasting notes:  

Codice Vino Torrepasso Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DO 2018 ($30-35). Very deep and plummy with a hint of cherry and whisper of oak. Bold and elegant, definitely a big step up from the average.  

Vigna Madre Capo Le Vigne Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC 2017 ($30-35). A little brighter than the previous example, but a very similar taste profile, with the addition of some leather and dried cherry notes. Reminded us a little of a very well-made Chianti Classico Riserva.  

Sparkling wines come from all regions

August 14, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

It feels like it's been forever since French champagne producers first purchased land in Napa Valley to produce their own sparkling wine. Moet & Chandon were the pioneers of this endeavor in the 1970s, creating only a few bottles with the help of Trefethen winery. Nowadays, Domaine Chandon stands as one of the leading sparkling wine producers in the region, and other notable French vineyards including Taittinger and Mumm have joined them. 

While Champagne is still considered the premier wine-growing region – and the only one allowed to use the eponymous name -- there are more sparkling wine alternatives than ever.  Italian prosecco, Spanish cava and West Coast sparkling wine provide a variety of styles and prices for consumers. These are wines rarely seen in the market until the turn of the century.  

More sparkling wine is available to consumers but with success has come noticeable price increases, especially in the California marketplace. The top Domaine Chandon cuvees, for instance, can cost $50 to $80. Domaine Carneros ranges from $40 to $125. Even Iron Horse sells for more than $50 a bottle.  These prices are in range of real champagne – Nicolas Feuillate, Pommery and Veuve-Cliquot can be purchased for less than $50 a bottle. 

This lofty price range opened the door for prosecco. Twenty or so years ago prosecco was the name of a grape and a relatively unknown sparkling wine from Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia in northeastern Italy. Modern EU labelling issues required the grape name be changed to glera. Today prosecco is the top selling sparkling wine in the world, out selling the number two and three sparklers combined.  

Make no mistake about it, there is a world of difference between prosecco and champagne. Prosecco is made in large tanks from a minimum of 85 percent glera grapes. Also different is fermentation and where it is bottled. Champagne and Spanish cava are fermented in the individual bottles in a process that requires much more labor and ultimately costs significantly more. The joy of prosecco is its simplicity -- a fruity bubbly sparkling wine that tastes of apples and possibly peaches and perhaps a dollop of sweetness to balance out the glera’s acidity.  

Prosecco rosé was approved and introduced to consumers in 2020. The formulation is straightforward: make a conventional prosecco, ferment twice as long for regular prosecco and add up to 15 percent pinot noir to create the appropriate pink hue.  

We were curious to ascertain what differences, if any, we could detect between prosecco and prosecco Rosé aside from the color. So, we compared two widely available brands side by side. We also added the Valdo Numero 10, a higher quality vintage-dated prosecco made in the classic bottle fermented style from the prestigious Conegliano-Valdobbiadene region.  

We tasted the Josh Prosecco DOC, a relatively new widely available prosecco from California-based Josh Cellars. The sparkling wine offered apple and pear notes with a hint of citrus. We then tasted a prosecco Rosé from Josh and a Valdo Prosecco Rosé to get a sense of their similarities and differences. 

The Valdo Prosecco Rosé ($17) and Josh Prosecco Rosé ($15) were remarkably similar in texture and flavors, each presenting a slightly heavier weight in the mouth and a hint of cherries and berries. Try them with heavier food.  

We also sampled the Valdo Numero 10 Method Classico Valdobbiadene Superiore 2019 ($33). This prosecco wanders outside the normal rules for prosecco. Although it only utilizes glera grapes, this sparkler is bottle fermented, vintage dated, and only utilizes grapes from the prestigious Valdobbiadene DOCG. The result of this effort is a classy prosecco that begins to emulate some of the finer qualities of champagne with apple and pear notes and a distinctive yeasty element. 

Champagne and prosecco aren’t the only sparkling wines.  

Spanish cava is off-dry, inexpensive and easy to find. While Champagne and Napa Valley use the traditional grapes of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, Spain draws blends from xarel-lo, parellada and macabeo grapes.  Big producers include Codorniu, Freixenet and Segura Viudas. 

When asked to compare, we advise people to follow their palates. We love champagne and have visited the region several times, but it’s too expensive to serve to a crowd. Few people will enjoy an expensive bottle served at a wedding or another large gathering where it is just a prop.  Save expensive champagne for small, intimate parties where guests appreciate its finer character. Pour the prosecco and cava to crowds. 

Here are a few suggestions to put sparkle in your summer daze: 

Billecart-Salmon Nicolas Francois Brut 2018 ($240).  Okay, we’re starting at the top. This is a wine to share with no more than one other person because it is that good. Exquisite, refined, balanced first come to mind.  Created in 1964 as a tribute to the founder, it is loaded with stone fruit and almond aromas to augment complex citrus and, fig and raspberry flavors. 

Mumm Napa Brut Prestige ($22). Apple and raspberry notes with a dash of spice. 

J Vineyards Cuvee 20 ($40). Very nice white peach notes with lemon and bread nuances. 

Antica Fratta Franciacorta Essence Rosé ($30).  Chardonnay and pinot noir grapes go into this sparkling wine from Italy. Nice red berry and stone fruit notes. 

Banfi Rosa Regale Sparkling Rosé ($20).  If you like sweet wines, especially those with bubbles, this a wine for you.  Strawberry and raspberry notes. 

Cleto Chiarli Brut de Noir Spumante Rosé ($16). Spumante gets a bad name because of all the misfits that are produced from this region of Italy, but there are many quality versions that appeal to consumers who want a bit of sweetness with their bubbles.  Low in alcohol, it is a blend of lambrusco grasparossa and pinot nero grapes.  Bright red fruit character. 

Cleto Chiarli Centenario Lambrusco de Modena DOC Amabile ($14). We remember drinking lambrusco in our younger days when it was the only affordable bubbly we could buy.  But the cheap fizz reputation is a thing of the past as producers today have dialed back its sappy sweetness.  This wine is still sweet, however, so buyer beware.  But those who like their wines off-dry will enjoying the fruitiness of lambrusco. 

Wine picks 

Diatom Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2021 ($21). A clean citrusy chardonnay with no overt oak influence. Only slight malolactic fermentation has created this lemony delight with a hint of ripe peach. 

Calera Central Coast Chardonnay 2020 ($28).  You would be hard pressed to find a better value in chardonnay that this one.  Although Calera makes an outstanding, complex chardonnay from its Mt. Harlan vineyard ($60), this one from Central Coast vineyards deliver good bang for the buck. Orange, lemon and green apple notes dominate the profile. Good acidity makes it a perfect food wine. If you can spare the change, the Mt. Harlan chardonnay is spectacular with a special toasty character we loved. 

How sweet they are…

August 7, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR  

Sometimes we worry about the wine industry. When we started writing a column in the mid 1980s, there were a lot of family owned wineries – small, dedicated operations that over time were absorbed by conglomerates such as Gallo, Treasury Wine Estates and Constellation. Exceptional producers who crafted such great wines – Inglenook, Franciscan, Charles Krug – are either gone or shadows of their former selves.  

The “so what” of this metamorphosis is sometimes a homogenization of wine styles. Chardonnays, merlots, cabernet sauvignons taste the same – well-made but hardly crafted without regard to profit. More profound among the trends is the rapid growth of producers who own no vineyards or wine-making facilities. They buy their grapes, make a trendy wine at crushing facilities and slap on a clever label. David Phinney, for instance, made millions creating brands like Orin Swift and The Prisoner, then selling them to Gallo and Constellation who doubled production and raked in millions more. 

But what isn’t there to admire about an entrepreneur who creates a popular wine and makes a boatload of money?  

Constellation Brands has had hits like Meiomi pinot noir, a wine created by Joe Wagner (son of Caymus’ Chuck Wagner) and sold after about 10 years to Constellation for $315 million. And, don’t get us started on red blends. Gallo has its Apothic Red, a top-selling wine that has gone so far off the grid that there is a hideous spin-off that includes coffee in the blend. As much as these wines deviate from tradition, they are nonetheless enjoyed by the masses who have quickly adopted their residual sugar. So, if these sweet concoctions have a good following, who are we to say they shouldn’t be made? 

We aren’t saying that, but we are saying that consumers need to know that these wines aren’t as dry as they think. And, that means they have more calories. 

A while ago, we joined Craig Becker in a tasting of his wines from Priest Ranch. He has managed to make wines tha stay free of this wacky trend of making lots of money from sweet red wines with gimmicky names.  

Becker said he thought wine producers were just “casting a wide net to attract customers. I hope they grow out of it. We like to be at ground level.” 

Priest Ranch makes a delicious but balanced cabernet sauvignon. But it’s the reserve wines – a Bordeaux blend called Coach Gun, a Somerston merlot and a reserve cabernet sauvignon called XCVI – that define Priest Ranch. They are heady with chewy tannins and power – nothing sissy about these wines. In fact, they are difficult to enjoy now because they are tightly closed and demanding time in the cellar. Priest Ranch’s regular cabernet sauvignon sells for $38 – prices that are less attractive than the $8 charged by Apothic Red and Menage e Trois. 

Dan Cohn, winemaker and owner of Bellacosa, says he tasted Meiomi pinot noir, blended with riesling and perhaps syrah, and says, “That’s not pinot noir.” 

“I will not deter from balance,” he says.  His cabernet has had as little as .45 grams of sugar per liter; Meiomi has about 6 grams per liter. Apothic Red has 15 grams per liter. 

Don’t get us wrong. We’re not condemning sweet wines, but we like them in the form of sauternes, port, or dessert wines served after a meal. Sweet wines paired with food often perform terribly because they lack the acidity needed to offset seasoned food. 

If you like Apothic, Ménage è Trois – the current top selling red wines – then drink on. The price is right and these wines go down as easy a Mountain Dew. We’re happy that you are enjoying wine as much as us and have found wines that fit your budget. For us, though, we prefer the traditional wines that laid the foundation for the industry and hopefully for its future. 

Decoy 

Duckhorn’s Decoy series represent some of the best values in California wine today.  The quality price ratio is simply hard to beat no what the grape variety. 

Its entry level wines – chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel – sell for $20 to $25 a bottle and carry a California appellation.  Generally, they are easy-going wines that won’t break the bank but offer a lot of flavor. We particularly like the chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. 

But for a few bucks more, consider Decoy’s Limited series of wines. 

Winemaker Dana Epperson has crafted a dense, complex 2021 Decoy Limited Cabernet Sauvignon ($30) from Alexander Valley fruit that shows off broad aromas of plum and spice while the palate is redolent of blackberries, black cherries and a touch of mocha. 

The 2021 Decoy Limited Merlot ($30) is also sourced from Alexander Valley and is equally delicious and complex.  Firm structure with raspberry aromas followed by cherry, plum and rosemary flavors. Silky and long in the finish. 

If pinot noir is your favorite grape variety and you don’t want to spend a lot for it, the 2021 Decoy Limited Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($35) is worth every penny. Most of the grapes come from the Petaluma Gap region. Bright cherry and raspberry aromas with a nice earthy backdrop and alluring red berry flavors. 

The Decoy Limited Sonoma Coast Chardonnay ($30) has opulence but bright acidity to make it an excellent wine to pair with most fish dishes. Mouth filling tropical fruit, ripe quince and citrus notes with a bit of spice. 

Wine picks 

MacRostie Nightwing Vineyard Chardonnay ($48). Citrus aromas with fresh and bright mango and lime flavors with tantalizing spice. 

McPrice Myers Beautiful Earth Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($60). This floral quaff from Paso Robles has good mouthfeel with youthful blackberry and plum notes.  Sturdy structure makes it a favorable match to grilled beef. 

Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2020 ($15).  This is a great buy.  Floral aromas and oodles of ripe black cherry and raspberry flavors. Made from montepulciano grapes, it is a great pasta mind to get in an Italian mood. 

Sauvignon blanc a great foil for the heat

July 31, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

The oppressive heat all of us are experiencing this summer is a challenge for wine drinkers who are determined to eat al fresco.  Even in the evening hours, the temperatures can exceed 80 degrees – to warm for most red wines.   

While keeping hydrated is very important in these blistering temperatures, you can still enjoy a glass of chilled wine.  

We find ourselves turning regularly to rose, an inexpensive and versatile wine that is best drunk chilled. But we also like sauvignon blanc, a wine with high acidity to embrace the warmth and serve as a foil to herb-scented or salty foods.  Its varietal pineapple and citrus flavors complement cheese, fruit, salads, fish and chicken – summer staples. 

The flavor profile can range from the grassy, tart sauvignon blancs from New Zealand to the rounder, semillon-blended versions from Bordeaux.  California sauvignon blanc tends to be less tart and more friendly.  Some of the more expensive versions are even aged in oak barrels. 

The best values in sauvignon blanc come from Chile. 

Here are several sauvignon blancs we have sampled this summer: 

Matanzas Creek Winery Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($25). Ripe honeydew melons combine with citrus and nectarine to make for a nicely layered wine. 

Brandlin Estate Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($45). Aged for 11 months in cigar-shaped French barrels, this extraordinary sauvignon blanc is the best we have tasted this year. Rich from lees contact and lush in texture, it has more layers of fruit character than most sauvignon blancs. Floral aromas with fresh and lively citrus and grapefruit flavors.   

Murphy Goode North Coast Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($18).  Pineapple, citrus and white peach notes dominate this multi-layered, well-priced sauvignon blanc. 

Carmel Road California Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($18).  Simple but refreshing, this wine has orange and grapefruit flavors. 

Justin Central Coast Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($16).  Simple yet delicious, this wine has classic citrus and herbal notes with a touch of minerality to keep it interesting. 

Darioush Sage Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($65). Very complex for this wine category, the Darioush has all the hallmarks of what makes its wines so good. Lush mouthfeel with bright citrus notes and a lingering, flinty finish. 

Markham Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($30). The musque clone used in this nicely textured wine provides an herbaceous aroma with generous floral notes as well. Flavors are varietal pineapple and melon notes with a hint of lime and lemon. 

The Paring Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($25).  The texture of his Santa Barbara wine is richer than most sauvignon blancs. Complex aromas of white peach, melon and orange marmalade. We loved it. 

Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($25). Lemon, melon and a bit of grapefruit highlight this delicious value. The Mount Veeder grapes give it a solid backbone.  Varietal grapefruit notes mingle with lemongrass and toast.  Soft mouthfeel is balanced with acidity. 

Justin Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($18). From the Templeton Gap area of the Central Coast, this lively sauvignon blanc has lime and apple aromas followed by pineapple and peach flavors with a hint of limestone. 

Carmel Road California Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($18).  Simple but with good varietal flavors of citrus and grapefruit. 

Chalk Hill Estate Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($38). Herbal, grassy, lemon notes with a streak of minerality.  Chalk Hill also makes a delicious Windy Ridge version from a single vineyard block that is more elegant with tropical fruit notes and tamed acidity.  

Silverado Vineyards Miller Ranch Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($30). The vineyard for this special wine is located south of Yountville. Citrus and melon notes with a bit of grapefruit and bright acidity. 

Gerard Bertrand Change Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($17). Balanced acidity, refreshing and with notes of orange, lime, peach and pineapple. Great value. 

Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($12).  A great value from Washington, this simple and medium-body sauvignon blanc has pineapple, herb and citrus notes. 

Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($16). This is a classic New Zealand sauvignon blanc with vibrant herbal, citrus and grassy character. It would be perfect with raw vegetables. 

Kenefick Ranch Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($30).  This gem from Calistoga has grapefruit and mango notes with a mineral finish and a dash of herbs. 

Sebastiani Vineyards and Winery Sonoma Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($30).  Bright kiwi and grapefruit flavors with crisp acidity and a tangy finish. 

Cuvaison Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($28).  Floral aromas with grapefruit, tangerine and citrus flavors.  Good acidity but still round ni the mouth. 

Gamble Family Vineyards Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($45).  Gamble uses four clones – two originating in Loire and two in Bordeaux -- in this complex and broad-shouldered sauvignon blanc. For us it mirrored the sauvignon blancs we enjoy from the Loire Valley. Citrus and white peach notes abound. 

Duckhorn Vineyards North Coast Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($32). The addition of semillon to this wine rounds off the corners of the high acidity and the touch of new French oak gives the wine more dimension. Tropical fruit and pineapple, citrus notes. 

Wine picks 

H3 Horse Heaven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($15).  Bold in style with a good dose of cocoa to add to the generous black cherry flavors.  Good value from Washington state. 

Vara Tinto Especial 2020 ($45). Albuquerque-based Vara Winery & Distillery has a big hit with this delicious, full-bodied blend. It draws carinena (29 percent) and mencia (28 percent) from Spain to add to cabernet sauvignon (15 percent) and tempranillo (10 percent) from Central California. The rest consists of garnacha, syrah and merlot from Spain. That’s quite an eclectic collection to produce a round, fruit-forward blast of black cherries, plums and boysenberries with hints of mint and slate.   

Lake Sonoma Winery Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($55). Forward, ripe fruit of blackberries and plums with hints of mocha. 

Petit manseng from Virginia worth finding; Santorini

July 24, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 
Throughout the wine growing world, change comes slowly. Even in the most prestigious winemaking regions, rules governing the production of wine are built on hundreds of years of tried-and-true experience.  

Very little has changed in the past hundred years, except technology, in regions such as Bordeaux or Burgundy, France or Barolo and Tuscany in Italy. Grapes varieties and geographical definitions of acceptable vineyard areas are jealously guarded by existing vineyard owners and governing bodies anxious to maintain the status quo. It is only recently that some of these bastions of the “Old Guard” are considering new options due to the threat of climate change. 

Winemaking in America however is much more flexible. Maybe its remnants of the renegade pioneer spirit or perhaps just the newness of large-scale commercial winemaking, but change is the watchword of this industry.  

Nowhere do we see this phenomenon more obviously than in Virginia. After lumbering along with the standard vinifera wine grapes of chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon and achieving mediocre results, Virginia is charting a new path that is producing outstanding results.  

We have recently written about the emergence of petit verdot as a potential game changer for Virginia.  Today we are reviewing our impressions of another emerging grape -- petit manseng -- that up to now has languished as an also-ran in France’s Sosuthwest Jurancon region.  

Two attributes of this strongly colored white grape have encouraged Virginia’s winemakers to make wine from it. Thick-skinned berries and loose grape clusters help this variety to ward off the mildews that plague East Coast summers.  

Another major advantage of petit manseng is their value.   

We also tasted a sparkler and a vermentino that showcased the potential of Virigina’s white wine industry.  

Following are our impressions of these wines.  

Jefferson Vineyards Petit Manseng Charlottesville Monticello AVA 2021 ($30). This is a terrific introduction to the potential of this grape in Virginia. Medium bodied but with a pleasant viscosity that clings to the palate. Peach, citrus and honey notes create a lovely package of 100 percent petit manseng.  

50 West Vineyards Petit Manseng Middleburg AVA 2020 ($30). This unblended wine is big and bold and displays a bit of residual sugar that is balanced with spirited acidity. Honey and peach notes dominate in a style, except for its grandness, that is somewhat reminiscent of a well-made German riesling.  

Barboursville Vineyards Vermentino Reserve Monticello AVA 2021 ($23). My first comment was wow! What a great example of this grape more commonly grown in Italy. It opens with a floral nose followed by pear, peach and lemon verbena notes. A pleasant finishing acidity completes this delicious 100 percent vermentino.  

Trump Winery Blanc de Noir Charlottesville, Monticello AVA 2016 ($55). This sparkling pinot noir shows boldness. Citrus and apple notes and a hint of minerality are featured in a big toasty oak frame.  

Wines from Santorini 

The white wines from Greece are vastly overlooked by consumers, presumably because their grapes are unfamiliar and difficult to pronounce. Yet these wines deliver a lot of crisp acidity to make them a good aperitif on a hot summer day. 

We are reminded of a line in “For Your Eyes Only” filmed on the twisting roads of Corfu, a Greek island Tom and his wife recently visited. When an associate recommends to James a Robola from Caponia, James Bond says, “Well, if you’ll forgive me, I find that a little too scented for my palate. I prefer the Theotaki Aspero.” 

We never heard of these wines or places, but it was pretty impressive Bond knew. 

Santori, on the other, we do know. 

Anyone who has traveled to this Greek island knows of its allure. But beyond its history and colorful buildings is a thriving wine culture. Vines are trained to circle inside baskets called “kouloura” to protect them from the strong winds that blow year-round. Although the vines are cut to ground level every 75 years, another shoot emerges from the rootstock.  Some stock is more than 400 years old.  

Located 70 miles north of Crete, Santorini soil is mostly volcanic ash and pumice stone with no organic matter.  That combination provides immunity from phylloxera, making them some of the world’s only ungrafted vines. There are still two active volcanos on the island. 

White wines dominate the market here with assyrtiko being the most common and the one we like the most. This indigenous grape produces a dry wine with big acidity and mineral notes. 

Here are three we recently tried: 

Sigalas Santorini Assyrtiko 2021 ($69). This well-respected producer continues to win awards for this wine.  Using oak for the fermentation gives this wine more complexity and depth. Lots of citrus and white peach flavors with a dash of honey, vanilla bean and mineral. 

Santo Wines Assyrtiko 2022 ($32).  Vinified entirely in stainless steel and left on its lees for 14 months, this wine has white peach and lime notes with crisp acidity. 

GA’A Thalassitis 2021 ($43).   Fermented entirely in stainless steel tanks, this assyrtiko is simple yet refreshing with citrus and peach notes with a nice dash of mineral and good acidity. 

Wine picks 

DAOU Paso Robles Bodyguard Chardonnay 2021 ($40). Generous apple aromas are followed by pear and peach flavors with hints of butterscotch, nutmeg and melon. Very nice. 

La Vite Lucente Toscana IGT 2020 ($35).  A second wine of the fabulous Luce, this Tuscany blend of sangiovese and merlot exudes velvet fruit flavors. Huckleberry and tobacco aromas are followed by ripe blackberry and reduced balsamic flavors with a hint of mint. 

Carpinito Dogajolo Toscana Rosso 2020 ($15). This blend of sangiovese (80 percent) and cabernet sauvignon is simple but delicious. Cherry and spice notes with good acidity.  This is a great pizza or burger wine. This Tuscany producer is celebrating its 30th anniversary. 

Ole! Gems from Spain

July 17, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 
Spain is a great source of high quality, classically made wines at terrific prices. We’ve written about Spanish wines on many occasions and admire the winemakers’ loyalty to traditions but also their adoption of modern, environmentally conscious techniques. There are two Spanish producers – Beronia and the vast portfolio of Gil Family Estates – that deserve your attention. 

Beronia is a winemaker located in Rioja Alta and lays claim to recently opening the “most efficient and sustainable” winery in Europe. However, Beronia also clings to utilizing the indigenous grapes and aging practices of their forefathers while adopting new concepts to enhance quality. One example is a hybrid barrel aging program whereby the winery uses American oak staves in their barrels but caps the ends with French oak wood. Beronia is owned by Spanish drinks conglomerate Gonzalez Byass better known for their production of sherry through their Tio Pepe and Pedro Domecq brands. Ownership by a large multi- national company can have significant advantages, including world-wide distribution and marketing. Today Beronia is sold in more than 80 countries and is widely available in the U.S. We recently tasted a selection of Beronia’s current offerings and were impressed with their price and classic styling.  

Spain may be an afterthought to some rosé enthusiasts. Although an ocean of excellent rosés flow from Provence every year, Spain should not be overlooked for its rosados. The Beronia Rosé Rioja 2022 ($13) uses the traditional name as opposed to other Spanish producers who use the more local “rosado.” Crafted from 50 percent each of grenache and tempranillo, this rosado delivers on a quality price ratio. It is very refreshing and shows bright acidity and pure strawberry notes that should pair well with any summer fare.  

The Beronia Crianza Rioja 2019 ($15-18) is a classically styled Rioja, projecting cherry notes with a hint of green herbs and a light vanilla note. It is 94 percent tempranillo with a bit of garnacha and mazuelo. It spends 12 months in Beronia’s French/American barrels. A great price makes this attractive for summer barbecues featuring simpler foods.  

The Beronia Reserva Rioja 2018 ($25-30) is a definite step up in quality with 95 percent tempranillo grapes and the rest mazuelo and graciano. Aged in both French and American oak barrels for 18 months with another 18 months of bottle age, this elegant wine sports plum and berry notes with a hint of spice and a touch more oak than the crianza. Try this delicious red wine with a beef entrée.  

Our favorite of the tasting was the Beronia Gran Reserva Rioja 2015 ($30-35). It’s amazing that this wine -- produced 8 years ago, aged for 28 months in French oak barrels and with another 36 months of bottle aging -- is available for this price.  

The Gran Reserva, which is produced from 95 percent tempranillo grapes, is bigger, richer and more complex than its less esteemed siblings. Complex notes of cherry and berry with a hint of chocolate create a delicious drink that interestingly is less oaky than the crianza and reserve despite the extended French oak aging.    

Gil Family Estates 

Gil Family Estates has been producing wine in several Spanish regions since 1916 and they continue to out-deliver their price point. Consumers would be wise to discover these wines: 

La Atalaya del Camino Red Blend 2020 ($18). From a high plateau in Castilla-La Mancha, this wine is a blend of monastrell (known elsewhere as mourvedre) and garnacha tintorera (known elsewhere as alicante bouschet). It has a full body, excellent structure, floral aromas and ripe blackberry flavors with big tannins. 

Atteca Old Vine Garnacha ($18).  We’ve been enjoying this wine for years and are never disappointed. Low-yielding vines produce concentrated cherry and plum flavors with hints of mint and soft tannins. 

Juan Gil Silver Organic Monastrell ($18). From the Jumilla region along the Mediterranean Coast, this monastrell has juicy red berry flavors and long finish.  

Tridente Tempranillo 2019 ($18).  From vines as old as 100 years, this wine from the Castilla y Leon region has forward, juicy black fruit flavors with in a nice dose of chocolate. Lots of tannin gives this wine body. 

Can Blau 2020 ($18).  We have enjoyed this wine for decades.  A blend of carinena, syrah and garnacha, it goes with just about anything on the grill from burgers to pizza.  Delicious sweet fruit with good spice. 

Rosario Vera Rioja Tempranillo ($18). Big flavors of blackberries and plums with a hint of cedar.  

Wine picks 

C.K. Mondavi Family Select California Chardonnay 2019 ($16).  With several of the fourth-generation family members steering this historic property, the products are always solid but not necessarily from specific vineyards. They draw grapes for this wine from Lodi, Yolo and Napa Valley. A good value and very approachable, it is juicy with ripe plum and cherry notes with a hint of vanilla.   

Chappellet Grower Collection Sangiacomo Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 ($55).  This luxurious chardonnay from Carneros is everything you want: delicious, complex, refined and balanced.  Peach, tangerine and citrus flavors with a good dose of spice. 

Markham Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($20).  We have enjoyed this producer’s sauvignon blancs for decades. Always balanced with the right amount of crisp acidity, they are a perfect foil to most summer foods. Citrus and grapefruit notes 

DAOU Paso Robles Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($20). Grapefruit, citrus and lemon grass notes with a bit of flintstone. It’s all sauvignon blanc. 

Paso Robles also know for its cabernet sauvignon

July 7, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

We have written about wines from the Paso Robles area several times because it continues to strengthen in quality.  Over the last couple of months we have tasted red wines made from Bordeaux varietals and those made from Rhone varietals. Although the cabernet sauvignons from this vast region have gained steam, we still feel the best quality wines from Paso Robles are made from syrah, grenache and mourvedre grapes. 

The most notable exception is DAOU whose vineyards in the Adelaida district are up 2,000 feet and closer to ocean breezes. The combination cools the grapes at night so that they retain their acidity. Many of the cabernets we tasted more inland lack the acidity that gives a wine its backbone. 

Three worthy wines from DAOU are the 2020 Estate Micho ($85), the 2020 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($95) and the colossal Soul of the Lion ($150).  Micho, a tribute to proprietors Daniel and Georges Daou, is a blend of cabernet and merlot. Soul of the Lion, now in its 10th year, is a powerful, ageworthy blend of specially selected cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petit verdot. It is named in honor of their father.   

Other decent cabernet sauvignon blends are made by Austin Hope, JUSTIN and J. Lohr. The 2020 JUSTIN Isosceles ($85) is a complex, full-bodied, fruit-driven wine worthy of its stature year after year.  

Although J. Lohr is a good producer who makes more value-priced wines, the version that puts it on par with the other full-bodied cabernets from Paso Robles is the 2019 J. Lohr Signature Cabernet Sauvignon ($100). Using grapes from the producer’s Beck Vineyard, this wine makes a solid performance with dark fruit flavors and hints of cocoa and caramel.  It lands softly on the palate and can be easily enjoyed now, but it also has a promising future in the cellar.  

Those in search of better values should try the 2020 JUSTIN cabernet sauvignon ($30) or the J. Lohr Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon ($35). Firestone Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is a good value at $16.  

As for those grenache, syrah and mourvedre wines, we find homeruns everywhere in Paso Robles.  

Our new favorites are coming from Fulldraw and Booker in the Willow Creek district.  Fulldraw’s winemaker Connor McMahon once worked at Booker before launching his own label from an adjacent property in 2016. McMahon’s 2019 Chopping Block blend of syrah, mourvedre and grenache is rich and powerful, exuding fresh red fruit and layered hints of tobacco, herbs and minerality. 

The Fulldraw Hard Point ($95), made entirely of grenache, is equally dramatic with strawberry aromas and dark fruit flavors. 

Lessegue 

We recently tasted the 2017 and 2018 St Emilion’s Chateau Lassegue Grand Cru ($60) side by side to evaluate where they are today. In general, the 2018 vintage is recognized as a bit superior to the 2017 and our tasting validated this view. The Ch. Lassegue 2017 we found to present as a bit leaner and offered more red cherry notes that still drank well. The 2018 was a bigger riper version with more ripe cherry and plum notes in a very elegant potentially long-lasting vintage. Both wines are crafted from a similar blend of merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon which varies from vintage to vintage.  

Aperol spritz 

While recently travelling in Europe, we noticed the that aperol spritz is as common as rose at the lunch table.  Even on the cruise, Americans were ordering it by the pool side or the breakfast deck.   

Aperol spritz is the perfect concoction for the summer because it is relatively low in alcohol and makes for a great aperitif to serve with olives, cheese, fruit and canapes. 

Generally, it is 3 parts prosecco, 2 pars Aperol and 1 part club soda. However, you can change the proportions to suit your liking.  Aperol is bitter, so reduce that portion if it’s too bitter for your liking and add more prosecco. If you want less alcohol, add more club soda. 

Aperol comes from Calabria in southern Italy and is a blend of citrus, herbs and vanilla. It has a bitter orange taste and has only 11 percent alcohol. 

Wine picks 

Xanadu Margaret River Vinework Chardonnay 2021 ($27). From Australia, this chardonnay has a soft and full mouthfeel with peach and lemon zest flavors. 

Markham Napa Valley Merlot 2020 ($29). Kimberlee Nichols, one of the first female winemakers in Napa Valley, leads an all-woman winemaking and viticultural team here.  We love the coffee aromas that leap from the glass and the ripe black cherry flavors that follow it.   

Textbook Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($27). This reasonably priced cabernet sauvignon from the Pey family is a blend of grapes from several sub-AVAs in Paso Robles. Big and juic cherry and raspberry notes with a hint of spice and rosemary. 

Gary Farrell Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2021 ($45).  The producer sources his grapes for this wonderful wine from several vineyards. Generous cherry and tobacco aromas with boysenberry and raspberry flavors.  

Talbott Sleep Hollow Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019 ($50).  When we were working, wearing a Talbott tie was a sign of success. Robb Talbott designed some incredible neckware in California but turned to wine in 1982.  From te Santa Lucia Highlands region, these wines approximate the style found in Burgundy. Lots of finesse and decieving lightness.  Blackberry flavors with a nice dose of spice. 

Gran Moraine Yamill-Carlton Chardonnay 2019 ($50).  This solid chardonnay from the eastern foothills of Oregon’s Coastal Range is crisp and deceivingly light. Pear and melon notes with fresh acidity. 

Tribute Cabernet Sauvignon- 2021 ($20). Drawing grapes from Paso Robles, San Benito County and the producer’s San Lucas Vineyard, this wine has bright red fruit chaacter with soft tannins and a hit of dark chocolate. 

Tom Gamble’s gamble: green harvesting

July 3, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Wine producers generally drop about one to 2 percent of its grapes each year, which may sound like a waste to many of you.  But the intent is to reduce the workload on the vine and to allow the remaining grapes to ripen with more sugar. Fewer grapes means more concentrated grapes. 

These grapes are often left on the ground for the birds, but one Napa Valley producer decided to use them to make inexpensive wines.  

Tom Gamble, a farmer first and a winemaker second, said, “The cheap old winemaker in me said we need to do more than experiment with this. We need to turn it into a label.” 

In 2012, Gamble’s winemaking team introduced “green harvesting” to the bulk market, but eventually he decided to produce wine under his own label. 

The label is “Mill Keeper,” a name inspired by a mill that was once on Gamble’s property. Now, the sale of Mill Keeper wines helps to support the Bale Grist Mill at Napa State Park. Each label commemorates the hardworking pioneers who worked the land in the mid-1800s. The labels are very attractive – and so is the wine. 

About 20 percent of the wines come from green harvested grapes. The rest come from generational grape farmers from less known vineyards in the North Coast region. 

Another unique feature is that the grapes come from multi-vintages, so you won’t find a vintage date on them. This allows Gamble a lot of flexibility in finding the best grapes no matter how problematic a vintage or area. 

Gamble said he was also inspired by the port and champagnes he tasted from multiple vintages. 

A third-generation farmer, Gamble said he “grew up with every-day wine on the table.” He wanted to replicate that experience and he couldn’t do it with his premium-priced wines that can exceed $100 a bottle. 

Because these grapes – mostly grown in the North Coast region – are so green, there is a risk that the wine will be under ripe and green tasting.   Gamble manages this risk with a process called “flash détente.” 

Used regularly European winemakers to treat under-ripe grapes in a difficult harvest, the process involves heating the must of crushed grapes and then putting them in a high-vacuum. This rapid temperature drop evaporates the water in the skin cells and provides instant color, aromatic compounds and tannin extraction to the young grapes. 

Working with grape growers to utilize dropped grapes reduces waste and helps the environment. But for Gamble it was an alternative to buying a vineyard to produce grapes for a new line of inexpensive wines.  

The two wines we tasted in a virtual meeting with Gamble – a chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon – were simple, fresh and delicious.  To keep the price down, he isn’t using much oak for these wines. 

The chardonnay is $24; the cabernet sauvignon is $25. Both are meant to be drunk young. 

Hopefully, these wines will lead people to taste some of the great wines made under the label Gamble Family Vineyards.  The 2022 sauvignon blanc ($45) made from multiple clones, for instance, is a good as sauvignon blanc gets. The 2017 Paramount ($90) we recently tasted is a dense and concentrated Bordeaux-like blend with a good percentage of cabernet franc. 

Different wines from RRV 

The Russian River Valley is known most for its delicious chardonnay and pinot noir, but those aren’t the only wines it produces.  Now in its 40th anniversary, the AVA dates back more than 150 years. 

Here are a few alternatives we recently enjoyed: 

Inman Family Wines Pinot Gris 2021 ($40). We have been big fans of Kathy Inman since we visited with her several years ago. Her rosé is one of the best in California and now this pinot gris has captured our attention. Pear and nectarine notes with good minerality and acidity. 

Martinelli Winery Vellutini Ranch Zinfandel 2020 ($62). Wild fires in the Russian River Valley killed the producer’s pinot noir crop, but the thicker-skinned zinfandel grapes were able to mature on schedule without any smoke taint. This has ripe raspberry and maple aromas followed by juicy and sweet berry flavors with a hint of spice and solid tannins. Very mouthfilling to taste by itself, but it deserves a rack of ribs, lamb or slathered beef kababs. 

Bacigalupi Vineyards Petite Sirah 2019 ($58). Big wine with good tannins but tasting well now. Raspberry and black berry flavors with rosemary notes and a generously long finish. There is a nice earthiness to this boldly flavored wine and hints of black pepper and tea.  

Taft Street Winery Garagistes Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($30). Honeysuckle aromas with stone fruit flavors and crisp acidity.  

Merriam Vineyards Windacre Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($60). This vineyard is at the core of the red-wine lineup from this reputable and dependable producer, but we enjoyed the cabernet sauvignon. It has cassis, raspberry and black cherry flavors with excellent body and depth. 

Wine picks 

Presqu’ile Santa Barbara Pinot Noir 2020 ($31). We found this pinot pleasantly different than a lot of pinot noirs.  The flavors are more like bing cherries rather than the black cherries we often find in California pinot noirs. Good price for a Santa Barbara pinot noir. 

C.K. Mondavi Family Select California Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($16).  With several of the fourth-generation family members steering this historic property, the products are always solid but not necessarily from specific vineyards. They draw grapes for this wine from Lodi, Yolo and Napa Valley. A good value and very approachable, it is juicy with ripe plum and cherry notes with a hint of vanilla.  

Famiglia Pasqua Passimento Rosso Veneto 2020 ($17).  A blend of merlot, corvina and croatina grapes, this delicious wine has vibrant cherry and plum notes with a tad of spice and an appassimento-style almond finish. Easy to drink, it’s a nice match to pasta, pizza and grilled meat. 

Trapiche Oak Cask Malbec 2021 ($13). A versatile wine from Argentina, this malbec has smooth tannins and plum/blackberry flavors with a dose of spice. Simple but delicious. 

Bordeaux also makes white wine

June 26, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

White wines from Bordeaux aren’t top of mind to many American consumers, despite that the U.S. is the number one destination for them. Consumers tend to associate this French region with red wines while missing out on the alternative. 

The primary grapes for white Bordeaux production are sauvignon blanc, semillon, muscadelle and sauvignon gris. Two distinctive styles command their personalities with most Bordeaux appellations crafting light, fruity, no-oaked wines dominated by sauvignon blanc and sold at consumer-friendly prices. A second style is a small amount of very expensive wine made in the Pessac-Leognan region from sauvignon blanc and semillon that often sees some oak aging.  

White Bordeaux wines span the gamut of styles and the flavor spectrum. The amount of sauvignon blanc in the blend sets the tone for crispness and acidity as well as expressing certain fruit notes. More sauvignon blanc usually means a lighter, crisper experience with herb and citrus elements dominating. More semillon and the blend softens the wine and adds a more textured mouthfeel with pear and tropical fruit more apparent.  

We tasted three white Bordeaux selections that spanned the spectrum of the region’s offerings. First up with a very heavy sauvignon blanc blend (90 percent) was the Chateau La Grande Metairie Entre-Deux-Mers 2021 ($15-17). The most austere of our samples, it had a bright profile that included herbs and citrus notes in a very lively package. Very food friendly for chicken and fish dishes.  

Chateau Haut-Columbier Blaye Cotes De Bordeaux Blanc 2021 ($18-23) is made from organic grapes. This delightful offering has less sauvignon blanc (60 percent), 30 percent semillon and a dash of muscadelle. The result is a softer presentation in the mouth with herb scents and a hint of mint. Pear and herb notes dominate the flavors with ample acidity and a smooth finish.  

At the other end of the spectrum was the Chateau Ducasse Bordeaux 2021 ($20). It is a blend of 70 percent semillon and 30 percent sauvignon blanc. Here we found notes of tropical fruits and a smooth elegant mouthfeel with lime notes in the finish. An amazingly quaffable bottle of wine, and one of our favorites. 

Bordeaux also produces a limited amount of sparkling wine that is usually marketed as a crémant, as well as rosé crafted from classic Bordeaux varietals.  

Cremant De Bordeaux is not well known or easy to find -- it only attained official status in 1990. However, that doesn’t diminish the quality of the Lois Vallon Cremant De Bordeaux Brut ($15-18). Merlot, cabernet franc, semillon, and muscadelle are used in this sparkling wine. The result is a delightful, fruity experience with notes of pear and apple with a hint of citrus and at a great price.  

We also tasted a still rosé that we found very appealing. The Clarendelle Rosé Bordeaux 2021 ($16) from Clarence Dillon Wines are also owners of first growth Chateau Haut-Brion. The rosé presents delicious fresh fruit notes of strawberry and cherry in a very agreeable lighter style. Crafted from cabernet franc grapes.  

Wine picks 

Juggernaut Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2021 ($20). A great white shark adorns this creative label of chardonnay. But behind the label is a melagé of granny smith apples and peaches with layered hints of vanilla, clove and lime.  Good value in chardonnay. 

Benziger Estate Bella Luna Pinot Noir 2021 ($55). From a vineyard in the Russian River Valley, this delightful pinot noir has a pure fruit expression with varietal cherry notes and layers of spice and cola flavors.  

Cuvaison Estate Pinot Noir 2021 ($42). This bright and tasty pinot noir from the Carneros region of Napa Valley sports fresh blackberry and strawberry notes with a hint of tea. 

Textbook Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($46).  Cabernet sauvignon dominates this Bordeaux-varietal blend from the Pey Family collection. Big and bold character with dark berry flavors, fine tannins and hints of black currant and tobacco leaf. 

Mira Napa Valley Hyde Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2018 ($95).  Cabernet franc doesn’t get much bigger or more delicious than this blockbuster from Carneros. Blueberry and plum fruit with a dose of espresso. 

Fairview Wine Goats Do Roam Red Blend Western Cape 2021 ($12-15). A very agreeable red blend from South Africa crafted from mostly shiraz along with other classic Rhone varietals and a dollop of tempranillo and durif. Clean ripe red fruit featuring cherry and plum notes in a very pleasant package.                                                          

Josh Cellars Hearth Cabernet Sauvignon California 2020 ($18). Another consumer-pleasing wine from the wildly popular Josh Cellars. It is an unabashedly bold cabernet sauvignon crafted from very ripe fruit and sporting a higher level of alcohol at 14.5 percent. Jammy berry fruits with a hint of mocha dominate the sensory experience.                            

Chalk Hill Chardonnay Estate Chalk Hill AVA Sonoma County 2020 ($52). This is wow wine! Intense honey, tropical fruit and luscious toasty oak combine to create a delicious package. It gets 100 percent French oak fermentation and aging and no filtration.  

Line 39 Merlot California 2019 ($16). It is hard to beat the price/quality ratio of this wine. Cherry and plum notes in a light oak frame produce a very pleasant quaff.  
 

Getting the best from chardonnay

June 19, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Most of you probably have not tasted wine made from airen grapes, even though it is the most widely planted white grape in the world. But we are sure you have tasted chardonnay – the second most widely planted variety.  

Believed to have originated in Burgundy, chardonnay is thought to be a cross between pinot noir and gouais blanc and is grown in most wine-growing regions because of its universal popularity. 

Without any intervention by the winemaker, chardonnay can be quite neutral.  Oak, climate and soil, however, contribute significantly to chardonnay’s flavor.  An unoaked chablis, for instance, is crisp and clean with obvious minerality.  But an oaked California chardonnay tends to be rich and bold with new layers of fruit that come from the barrels.  Chardonnay made in warmer climates like that of Australia take on apple and pear notes. Where the summers are very warm, such as in the vast Central Coast of California, chardonnay shows tropical fruit notes. 

While all chardonnay has some natural malolactic fermentation – a conversion of brisk apple-like acids to milk-like acids – winemakers often increase the amount to achieve softer acidity and a soft, buttery texture.  

We see a lot of different styles of chardonnay and frankly are not wedded to one or the other.  But understand that the one you choose could have an influence on what you pair it with. For instance, a buttery chardonnay does well with creamy fish sauces while a nuanced, minerally chardonnay from, say, Chablis does better with white fish that does not have an overwhelming sauce.  

Chardonnay can range in price from $15 to $75. Burgundy chardonnay is generally pricey, but you can still find deals in the Macon Village category.  While you can find Joel Gott and Clos du Bois for under $15, a few bucks more will get you a better wine. 

Here are 10 chardonnays under $25 and 10 premium chardonnays for that special dinner. 

Inexpensive 

Angove Chardonnay 2021 ($20). Produced from grapes grown in the Mount Lofty range east of McLaren Vale, this pure chardonnay has citrus and apple notes with a long finish.  We liked it because it wasn’t over-oaked and had good balance.  

J. Lohr October Night Chardonnay 2021 ($25). Always a good value and always delicious, this chardonnay has fresh citrus and peach notes with a dash of vanilla and a long finish. 

Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay 2021 ($18). One of our perennial favorite chardonnays, this wine has loads of citrus aromas, apple flavors and touches of mineral and toasty oak. 

Laetitia Estate Chardonnay 2021 ($25). Abundant apple and peach aromas hand off to a sweet melon flavor with a dash of lime.  

Ritual Casablanca Valley Chardonnay 2019 ($21). We don’t think of Chile when it comes to chardonnay, but maybe we will after tasting this one. Grapefruit, lemon and tangerine notes abound. Good value.   

Hahn Appellation Series Arroyo Seco Chardonnay 2021 ($20).  What a great deal.  Juicy stone fruit and pineapple flavors with a good dose of toasty spice. 

Maddalena Chardonnay 2020 ($15). This nicely priced chardonnay comes from grapes grown in several appellations of Monterey County. Tropical fruit flavors enveloped by a soft mouthfeel. 

Bread & Butter California Chardonnay 2021 ($15). Very lush in the mouth just like “butter” implies, this wine has tropical fruit notes with hints of vanilla and almond. 

Kendall-Jackson Vintners Reserve Chardonnay ($17). Soft on the palate with easy, buttery mouthfeel and apple, vanilla flavors. 

La Creama Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2021 ($18).  Pear aromas are followed by pineapple and apple flavors with a dash of toasty oak. 

Expensive 

Beringer Private Reserve Napa Valley Chardonnay 2020 ($50).  This classic chardonnay is more complex than most with layers of stone fruit, citrus and tropical fruit flavors with a dash of minerality.  

Waypoint Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay 2020 ($60). From a cool-climate Sonoma Coast vineyard, this chardonnay has a luxurious, sensuous mouthfeel with ripe tropical fruit flavors, lemon custard, spice and pronounced oak notes. 

Ram’s Gate Estate Chardonnay Carneros 2020 ($76). This opulent chardonnay is luxury at first sip. Although several clones are used, it owes its personality to the Wente clone. Very aromatic with notes of melon and stone fruit. It spent five more months in the barrel than in previous vintages, which gives it more complexity and texture.  Round in the mouth but finishes with crisp acidity. 

Frank Family Vineyards Carneros Chardonnay 2021 ($40).  Now in its 30th year, this producer continues to knock out hits. We liked this chardonnay for its texture.  Only part of it goes through malolatic fermentation so it is more crisp than creamy – a good balance to complement food. Apple and stone fruit notes. 

Three Sticks Origin Durrell Vineyard Chardonnay 2021 ($75).  Using grapes from a very respected vineyard in Sonoma Valley, this balanced chardonnay has great purity with grapefruit, apple and lemon notes. The lack of oak fermentation keeps the fruit fresh and makes for a better food wine. 

Flora Springs Winery Flora’s Legacy Napa Valley Chardonnay 2020 ($70). Frequent lees stirring and barrel fermentation keep this wine soft on the palate and full of tropical fruit flavor with hints of toasted almond and vanilla. Long finish. 

Darioush Napa Valley Chardonnay 2021 ($60). With only half of this wine aged in new French oak, there is a certain leanness to the wine that isn’t overcome by heavy oak richness. The texture is still creamy and the pear, nutmeg and limestone notes are still abundant. We like its attitude. 

Migration Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2021 ($44). Bright apple and citrus aromas with stone fruit, apple and custard flavors with a dash of toasted oak. 

Newton Napa Valley Unfiltered Chardonnay 2021 ($60). This is not a buttery or over-extracted chardonnay that assaults the palate with vigor.  Instead, it is very flirtatious with subtle stone-fruit aromas that lure you into an expansive palate of ripe tropical fruit and peach notes. Hints of nutmeg and clove mingle with the finish.  

VML Ritchie Chardonnay 2020 ($55).  From a single vineyard in the Russian River Valley, this premium chardonnay exudes luxury. Stone fruit notes with a hint of vanilla and spice.   

Treat dad with a bottle of wine for Father’s Day

June 12, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

It should not be hard to find a gift for dad. There’s always a tie for the guy who is still working, a fishing rod for those who aren’t or a recliner for those who are sitting on the decision. A good tie costs $85 nowadays and a fishing rod and recliner are significantly more. What is less expensive for a particular dad that isn’t hard to swallow? 

Wine. Of course, a bottle of bourbon or scotch would be a treat as well, but this column is about wine and that is what we’re recommending. 

A “nice bottle of wine” is subjective, of course. If you know what your father normally enjoys, the choices are narrowed. If he likes California chardonnay, for instance, consider a chardonnay from Burgundy. You can find a Macon-Villages for $25 or a Puligny-Montrachet for $225.   

If you think he would enjoy a different experience in white wines, consider an albarino from Spain or a grillo from Sicily. Both can be found for less than $25 – maybe you can afford one of each. 

If his interests lean toward red wine, there are even more opportunities. Pinot noirs can cost more than $50 and are delicious.  But you can find tempranillo from Spain or touriga nacional from Portugal – wines that exceed their price in quality. 

Of course, if you are collecting money from your siblings, you have a bigger pot to play with. Maybe get him some Riedel glasses and a bottle of wine. Or get him an expensive wine he wouldn’t buy for himself. 

Here are five special, expensive wines we can vouch for and five inexpensive wines that are sure to please. 

Brandlin Estate Napa Valley Malbec 2019 ($60). Malbec is the darling grape of Argentina but here the malbec is serious and complex, yet forward and delicious. Floral aromas lead off a beautifully textured wine with currant flavors and hints of cocoa and tea. 

Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Three Palms Vineyard Merlot 2020 ($125). Recognized as one of the best and most respected merlots in the valley, this perennial favorite continues to put merlot in a different class. Ageworthy yet elegant, it has layers of fruit ranging from blueberries to raspberries with dashes of herbs and cocoa. 

Calera Mt. Harlan Pinot Noir Ryan Vineyard 2019 ($95).  With grapes coming from vineyards as high as 2,500 feet, Calera gets intense red cherry aromas with fresh plum flavors and easy tannins to make it a good match to food. 

Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Spring Mountain District 2017 ($210). Yes, this is a ridiculous amount of money for a bottle of wine, but it may be worth the tariff. Plum, cassis and berry notes in an incredibly appealing mélange of wonderfulness. A very mild oak frame and a bare scent of herbs complete the package. Drinkable now but it has the tannins to let it age for a decade. 

Gamble Family Vineyards Paramount Red Wine 2018 ($90). We had the chance to taste this wine beside the 2017 version and liked it slightly better for its more fresh and precise fruit character. The 2017 had more lush fruit but this one is more intense. There is a good bit of cabernet franc in both wines, giving it a more blueberry aroma, but it is rounded out with cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot to add fruit depth. Plum and black cherry flavors with a nice dash of spice. 

Inexpensive 

Decoy California Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($25).  Drawing grapes from a wide swath of areas, Duckhorn applies its expertise to all of the Decoy wines in its portfolio. Forward and ripe dark fruit flavors with hints of vanilla and nutmeg. 

Beringer Knight’s Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($35). This is a great value. It has body, tannin and a rich character of ripe and sweet black cherries, kirsch and olives on the palate with generous aromas of blackberries, lavender and herbs. A little merlot, cabernet franc and petite verdot are blended in this wine. 

Juggernaut California Hillside Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($20).  This is one of the best bargains on the red wine market today.  With grapes grown on Hillsides around California, it has dark fruit and cassis flavors and oak-inspired vanilla notes. Soft and smooth.  

Gotas de Mar Rias Baixas Albarino 2022 ($25).  We love these refreshing, crisp wines from northern Spain because they are pefect sippers and they do well with fish. Floral aromas with peach and mineral flavors are a great way to introduce spring to your palate.  

Landmark Vineyards Overlook Pinot Noir 2021 ($27). Sourced from Sonoma County, Monterey County, and Santa Barbara County, this is a big chunky pinot noir that can be matched with the boldest cuisine. Ripe cherry and spice notes dominate in a well-priced package.  

Wine picks 

Scout Wild Red Wine N/V ($18). In what may be a nod to the future of wine labeling, Wild Scout provides a wealth of details to consumers. Unlike food products, wine is not required to post ingredients on their labels. Scout Wild informs consumers that no artificial processing aids nor added sugars were used in making their wine, In addition Scout Wild lists the four ingredients in their wines: grapes, tartaric acid, yeast and sulfites. We tasted the red wine blend recently that was a mix of primitivo, cabernet sauvignon, and petite sirah and found the result as a very bright pleasant berry flavored red wine with no discernable oak.  
Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 3030 ($80). Rich and complex with blueberry and violet aromas are followed by black berry and chocolate flavors. Long in the finish. 

There is a rose for every occasion

June 5, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Trends come and go with wine but one trend that has not seem to abate is rosé.  Once the scourge of the market, rosé has finally locked into a permanent place in the consumer’s hit list.   Sales increased 40 percent over the last year with no signs of slowing. 

Rosé’s peak sales occur in the summer because people associate it with light fare and patio sipping. However, many consumers have recognized that its universal flavors appeal to a wide variety of winter food as well. Plus, not everyone is located in cold climes during the winter months. 

Rosé can be made from almost any red grape variety and you can find it in nearly every country. Its bountiful acidity and lively red fruit character make it a good match to fruit and cold vegetables, most appetizers, chicken, burgers, fish and more.  It does not usually have a lot of body, so meat is not a good companion. 

France is the largest producer, followed by Spain, the United States and Italy.  If you’ve been to southern France you know that rosé is served by the carafe at outdoor cafes along the Med. 

We tend to favor the rosés from the Rhone Valley and Provence. Here rosé is often the primary if not only wine made, so it gets the winemaker’s undivided attention. In California, rosé is usually an afterthought – a secondary wine to fill a need but not one winemakers will give their most attention. 

The rosés from the Rhone use the grapes that seem to make the best wines everywhere: grenache, syrah, mourvedre and cinsault. 

We’ll be reviewing rosés all summer. Here are a few to get your summer started: 

Revelation by Goose Ridge 2022 ($18). From the Goose Gap AVA of Washington state, this racy blend is made up of syrah, pinot gris, merlot, mourvedre and grenache. Strawberry and watermelon flavors. 

DAOU Paso Robles Rosé 2021 ($24). Made entirely from grenache noir grapes, this rosé in a very attractive bottle has citrus and pineapple aromas followed by lush stone fruit and melon flavors. There are a lot of layers of fruit here to tease the palate. 

Quivira Wine Creek Ranch Rosé 2022 ($30). This Dry Creek Valley rosé is a blend of grenache (59 percent), primitivo, counoise, petite sirah and mourvedre. That sort of melange provides layers of intense red berry, stone fruit and citrus fruit character. Complex and balanced. 

The Mill Keeper California Rosé 2022. This delicious wine is a hodge podge of grape varieties: cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, grenache, malbec, petit verdot, and petite sirah. Watemelon, strawberry and cranberry notes. 

Justin Central Coast Rosé 2022 ($20).  Made mostly of syrah, this easy-drinking rosé has a salmon color to tease you into a combination of red fruit and herbal flavors. 

Lucy Rosé of Pinot Noir 2020 ($24). This is our favorite of the year. There is so much going on: strawberries, raspberries, peaches, watermelons, cloves, citrus. A bit of oak aging balances the fresh acidity in this wine to give it more texture and mouthfeel. One of the best wines from the impressive portfolio from the Pisoni family. A dollar of each rosé sold goes to breast cancer research. 

M. Chapoutier Belleruche Cotes du Rhone Rosé 2022 ($18). Chapoutier continues to make a consistently good and surprisingly complex rosé year after year. This blend of grenache, syah and cinsault make for a fresh red berry and apricot mix.  The producer’s Mathilde Chapoutier rosé from the Cotes de Provence ($21) is an equally stunning wine with grapefruit and peach notes. 

Chateau Beaubois Expression Costieres de Nimes 2022 ($13). A good value, this blend of grenache, syrah and marselan grapes has blackberry notes with a dash of licorice. 

Bouchaine Vin Gris of Pinot Noir 2022 ($29). Zesty and lively with strawberry and watermelon notes, good acidity and a touch of melon. 

Chateau d’Aqueria Tavel 2022 ($20). Dark in color and surprisingly complex in character, this rosé has bright red fruit character with a dash of spice 

Villa Leyda Rosé ($14).  Made entirely from pinot, this Chilean rosé has fresh red berry flavors and nice acidity. 

Souleil Le Rosé 2022 ($18).  This mostly grenache rosé made from organically farmed vineyards has everything you would expect from southern France: fresh melon and mineral aromas with strawberry and cherry flavors.   

Tenuta di Capezzana Vin Ruspo Rosato di Carmignano 2022 ($19). From a subzone of Tuscany, this rosato is made mostly from sangiovese grapes.  Floral aroms with cherry and strawberry flavors. 

Scaia Rondinella Rosata Veneto 2022 ($15). From northeast Italy, this wine is made from rondinella, a traditional Valpolicella variety in the Veneto region.  Fresh apple and citrus notes with a touch of apricot.  

Hogwash California Rosé ($18).  Fresh strawberry aromas and citrus, nectarine flavors highlight this rosé.  It also comes in a convenient can perfect for days at the beach or on the boat. 

Summer in a Bottle Cotes de Provence Rosé 2022 ($27). From Wolffer Estate, this Provence version of their series of rosés has ripe strawberry and peach flavors with herbal aromas and a hint of lime.  It is composed of grenache, cinsault, vermentino and syrah grapes. Very refreshing and in one of the prettiest bottles on the market.  

Wine picks 

Fat Bastard Pinot Noir Pays d’Oc Pinot Noir 2021 ($13). A great bargain for serving with outside food affairs this summer. Pair with burgers or barbequed chicken and put a slight chill on it to bring out the berry fruit notes. Cheap and cheerful rules the season.  

Frescobaldi Tenuta Perano Rialzi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2015 ($70). This Chianti Classico Gran Selezione is a great tasting experience. Although the 2016 and 2017 versions of this wine have also been released, tasting this version with a few more years on it reveal a glimpse of the potential these more recent vintages may produce. Plum and cherry notes perfectly married with mature oak and a bare whiff of menthol.                 

Unusual white wines for spring tasting

May 29, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Spring is one our happiest times of the year.  The worst of the weather is well behind us. We can break out the short-sleeve shirts, return to the barbecue and get the boat ready to launch.  We’re sure most of you have taken the patio furniture out of storage and maybe started a garden.  

We love to use the time to experiment with the many alternative white wines that can deliver a foil to the tart or sweet flavors of fresh fruit and vegetables.  While there are plenty of occasions to drink chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, there are so many other wines from Spain, South Africa, France and California that perform better with fresh produce. 

While you may not be able to find the following producers, search instead for the grape variety. These wines were chosen because they are unique and appeal to the adventurous palate. They are great happy-hour sippers or they can complement the simple foods of spring: salads, raw vegetables, fruits, cheese and entrees like chicken and fish. 

Gerard Bertrand Orange Gold 2020 ($25). Seven Mediterranean grapes go into this astounding orange wine that pays tribute to the ancient techniques invented in Georgia 4,000 years ago.  Grape skins are left in contact with the juice longer to give the wine an orange color. This one has a fresh appeal with dominant peach and apricot notes. We loved it as an aperitif but it would do well with sushi, curry and cheese.  

Souleil Vin de Bonte Le Blanc 2022 ($18). This is a delicious blend of piquepoul, terret blanc and ugni blanc – aromatic grapes with good acidity and layers of pineapple, orange and stone fruit. From southern France, each grape variety is vinified separately in stainless steel tanks to preserve the bright fruit character. The zesty acidity gives it a nice edge to pair with salad or cheese. “Souleil” means sun in ancient France, which is what we yearn for now.  

Zenato Lugana San Benedetto 2020 ($18). A relatively obscure region of northern Italy, Lugana is known for its trebbiano di lugana grape variety. This wine is luxurious with big apple, pineapple and pear flavors.   

Circa 77 Xanadu 2022 ($18).  We love the sauvignon blanc and semillon blends of Australia. This one from Margaret River has the simple, fruity character for spring and summer sipping.  The good acidity.  Citrus and tropical fruit notes.  

Lucy Pico Blanco 2022 ($26).  The Pisoni brothers have created an interesting, expressive white wine from a blend of 85 percent pinot gris and 15 percent pinot blanc grapes from Monterey. White peach, pear and sweet pineapple notes with a touch of minerality,  

Inman Family Wines Pinot Gris 2021 ($40). The Russian River Valley produces more than pinot noir and chardonnay. This gem from Inman has stone fruit, tangerine and citrus notes. Long finish and expressive aromas.   

Kenefick Ranch Pickett Road White 2019 ($24). We enjoyed this Rhone-like blend of grenache blanc, marsanne and viognier for its refreshing melon and tangerine notes with a dash of lemon. Light and easy drinking.  

Meeker Knight’s Valley Viognier 2021 ($45). Lucas Meeker took over the winemaking after his father’s passing last year. Ready to celebrate its 40th anniversary, the Sonoma County winery continues to churn out excellent wines. This viognier has pronounced tropical fruit and peach notes with a soft mouthfeel and long finish.    

Tenute Rubino Giancola Salento IGT 2021 ($25).  This malvasia bianco from the boot of Italy is fermented in stainless steel tanks and gets no malolatic fermentation. The result is a crisp, clean and thirst-quenching white wine with apricot and pear notes.    

Radio Boka Verdejo 2021 ($12). Vivid citrus and apple notes with a bit of zest and bright acidity – a perfect combination for a vegetable platter or just by itself.  

Gotas de Mar Rias Baixas Albarino 2022 ($25).  We love these refreshing, crisp wines from northern Spain because they are perfect sippers and they do well with fish. Floral aromas with peach and mineral flavors are a great way to introduce spring to your palate.  

Etude Pinot Gris 2020 ($32). Guava and ripe melon notes with a bit of stone fruit and citrus. Round in the mouth, it would do well with a cheese board or simple fish preparations.  

Protea Chenin Blanc 2022 ($16). This South African wine has peach and lemon aromas and apricot flavors. Slightly sweet and fruity.  

Wine picks 

Larkmead Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($125).  This venerable Calistoga producer continues to produce great cabernet sauvignon as one of the oldest family owned wineries in Napa Valley. Founded in 1895, it produces full-bodied wines that can age a decade or more.  We recently tasted a 2016 version of this wine and it was still developing. The 2020 had floral, plum and cocoa powder aromas followed by black cherry and plum flavors, firm tannins and balanced acidity. 

G3 Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2021 ($15).  Another terrific value from Washington state, this ripe and ready chardonnay has tropical fruit and tangerine flavors with a bit of spice. Simple yet delicious. 

Landmark Overlook Chardonnay Sonoma County 2021 ($27). Ripe apples and pears with a nice touch of minerality. Not over-oaked but balanced. 

Ettore Mendocino PURE Chardonnay 2019 ($28). Made from organic grapes, this gold-tinted chardonnay has a floral bouquet and buttery, tropical fruit flavors with a hint of vanilla. 

Fire up the ‘que and open a wine

May 22, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Memorial Day is the first day many of us think about barbecuing. Diehards may grill foods year-round and there are those who live in southern climes where one balmy day is like the next. However, for those who cover their grills during the winter, this is the weekend to fire them up. 

Perhaps many of you are planning a gathering of friends or family with ribs, hamburgers or chicken on the menu.  If you have a large crowd, you probably will be keeping the food simple to prepare and easy to eat. Hamburgers, brisket, sausage and chicken are perfect. If the guests are small in number, you can consider steak, fish or rotisserie chicken. 

Similarly, the wines should not only complement the food but be priced according to the size of the crowd. There are a lot of inexpensive zinfandels, but not so many inexpensive pinot noirs, for instance. 

Also consider the sauce you are planning to serve.  Any sweet, ketchup or tomato-based sauce calls for zinfandel or syrah. These wines are simple but fruity. Zinfandel, though, is high in alcohol – something to consider if you’re pouring it by the liter. 

Foods that have herb or seasoned rubs are best matched with sauvignon blanc. Creamy fish sauces call for chardonnay or a host of white alternative wines from Spain and Italy. 

Remember that Memorial Day is meant to honor those men and women who have given their lives to their country.  Pay your respects to their sacrifice with a moment of silence or a toast in their honor. Our democracy prevails because of them. 

Here are 12 great wines for grilled meat dishes: 

Cline Eight Spur Dry Creek valley Zinfandel 2020 ($36). Pure zinfandel, this delicious wine has raspberry and plum notes and a big enough body to go with any meat dish. Steak, pizza, burgers. 

Mount Lange Ghiran Billi Billi Shiraz 2021 ($15). Australian shiraz – or syrah as it is known elsewhere – is a perfect complement to barbecue sauces.  The smokey, sweet flavor of a ketchup-based sauce matches well with the abundant, sweet fruit character of this variety.  This wine is medium body, simple and chock full of red and dark berry flavors.  Ribs, burgers. 

J. Lohr Tower Road Petite Sirah 2020 ($35).  Petite sirah is a perfect foil to anything with a smokey flavor. It is big enough to handle steak, yet fruity enough to pair well with sweet sauces. A little malbec, grenache blanc and viognier go into the blend. Generous floral aromas and flavors of bright cherry, cranberry and plum.  Brisket, steak, chicken. 

Lucy Gamay Noir 2022 ($30).  The Pisoni family has an exciting series of wine that are mutations of the pinot noir grape.  This gamay noir is grown in the Santa Lucia Highlands. It offers up bright but very fruity raspberry and black cherry notes with a hint of lavender and spice.  Very forward and yummy, it would complement tomato-based sauces for grilled foods. Burgers, pork loin, duck, chicken. 

Silverado Mt. George Vineyard Merlot 2019 ($65). You can pit this luxurious wine with beef, thanks to its body and depth. Pomegranate, red cherry flavors mingle with a bit of spice. Forward and silky. Steak, brisket. 

Sebastiani North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($14).  This is an excellent value in cabernet sauvignon.  Ample varietal aromas of plum and blackberry with jammy blackberry flavors, earthy notes and a hint of mineral. Easy drinking. Burgers, chicken, ribs. 

Rombauer Zinfandel California 2020 ($38). This is a throwback zinfandel to the 1990s, one of our favorite times for heady zinfandels. Packing almost 16 percent alcohol, this delicious zinfandel presents classic black raspberry notes and mocha in a mouth-filling package that surprisingly is not out of balance. Burgers, steak.  

Benziger Family Merlot 2020 ($20). From a pioneer in biodynamic, sustainable and organic farming, this merlot has black cherry and plum notes with nice spice and vanilla nuances.  Good value. Burgers, sausage, brisket. 

Unanime Signature Malbec Mascota Vineyards Argentina 2018 ($40). This bountiful red wine spent 14 months in French oak developing the integrated plum and berry elements with cedar accents. Soft tannins make a very agreeable package. Beef kababs, filets, brisket.  

Monteci Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2019 ($22). An organically made wine from the classic grapes corvina, rondinella, and molinara. Grapey notes with an accent of dried cherries in a very smooth presentation. Very easy to drink and match with red sauced Italian dishes. Ribs, burgers, pizza.  

Yalumba Shiraz Barossa 2018 ($28). A throwback to the classic, fruit forward shiraz of yesteryear. Black raspberry and ripe cherry notes in a bold fruit forward agreeable style. Very, very good. Burgers, ribs. 

Charles Krug Generations Napa Valley 2018 ($85). OK, we had to save one expensive wine to go with that tomahawk steak. This is a powerful Napa Valley red wine blend crafted from the classic Bordeaux red grapes. Aged in new French oak barrels this bold but harmonious wine exhibits cassis and cherry flavors. Steak. 

Wine notes 

Bouchaine Estate Chardonnay 2019 ($36). The source for this delicious chardonnay is the southern border of Napa Valley’s Carneros district.  It benefits from the fog and wind of the San Francisco Bay.  Apple aromas with a dash of orange zest gives way to nectarine and apricot flavors. 

Benziger Family Winery West Rows Chardonnay 2021 ($37). Nice apple and peach notes with a creamy finish. 

Ritual Casablanca Valley Chardonnay 2019 ($21). We don’t think of Chile when it comes to chardonnay, but maybe we will start after tasting this one. Grapefruit, lemon and tangerine notes abound. Good value. 

There’s value in aging chardonnay

May 15, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR  

This may appear to be an odd approach to examine California chardonnay, but bear with us. Considering most wines purchased in the U.S. are consumed within 24 hours, why write about older wines much less California chardonnay? Forgetting the reality of immediate consumption, even most winemakers and wine pundits recommend a few years for peak enjoyment of domestic white wine. However, tasting three old to very old California chardonnays opened our eyes to the benefits of aging high-quality California chardonnay.  

Aging French white burgundy is an accepted practice for wine collectors. Winemakers and wine writers routinely recommend aging white premier cru and above French white Burgundies 10-15 years and even up to 20 years for some. They are using the same grape as California producers and often even use the same French cooperage for aging. So, why not California chardonnay?  

We’re not sure what motivated us to squirrel away these wines. We have a vague memory of a noted winemaker advocating that aging quality California chardonnay would pay off. In any event, we found these gems in our cellar and opened them at different times over the last year. 

The wines we tasted were the 2004 Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay Alexander Valley Belle Terre Vineyard, 2006 Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay Napa Valley and the 2011 Sbragia Family Vineyards Sonoma County Dry Creek Valley Home Ranch. Ed Sbragia, owner of Sbragia Family Vineyards and former winemaster for Beringer Vineyards, was involved in the creation of two of these wines.  

All three of our aged wines displayed wonderful honey and dried intense baked apple and tropical fruit notes with a hint of buttered toast. The nose and flavors were intense and only needed minor chilling to maximize their qualities.  

Our recommendations for aging domestic chardonnay are to choose well-respected producers, good vintages and store the wines in a cool, light-free environment away from any vibration.  

If you are lucky enough to find an older California chardonnay in you cellar, don’t despair. Open it and you may find a wonderful reward for either your forgetfulness or patience.  

Ramon Bilbao 

We recently tasted three Rioja red wines from Ramon Bilbao, which has been producing wine since 1924 and was purchased by the Spanish owned large drinks conglomerate Zamora in 1999.  

The vineyards hug the border with Basque country near the city of Haro in the northwestern corner of Rioja. Tempranillo is Spain’s most widely planted grape variety, recently replacing the white grape airen that is primarily used in brandy production.  

Tasting these wines illustrated the marked difference among the levels of Rioja red wines. Each level must adhere to strict rules administered by Spanish wine authorities to achieve recognition. 

DOC (Denominacion de Origen Calificada) Rioja red wines are classified in one of three levels defined by aging requirements. Crianza wines require two years of aging with at least one year in oak. Reserva ages for three years with a minimum of one year in oak. And gran reserve wines must age for a minimum of five years with a minimum of two years in oak. 

We were pleased with the deft touch of oak in these wines, unlike many of the over-oaked riojas of the past.  Following are our tasting notes:  

Ramon Bilbao Rioja Crianza 2019 ($18-20). A terrific value presenting fresh cherry and plum notes with just a bare whiff of oak. Very quaffable.  

Ramon Bilbao Rioja Reserva 2016 ($25-28). Not as fruit forward as the Crianza, but it offered a more reticent pleasant drinking experience. Cherry notes and a bit of spicy oak.  

Ramon Bilbao Rioja Gran Reserva 2014 ($38-40). Fresh fruity notes in a big, elegant package. Not overly oaked but the oak is apparent with some vanilla notes. A special wine. 

Wine picks 

Ram’s Gate Carneros Pinot Noir 2020 ($85). This fruit-driven wine has gobs of cranberry and brambly, wild berry flavors and baking spices. Winemaker Joe Nielsen introduced whole cluster and native fermentation to the estate pinot noirs to get better concentration. 

Lange Twins Thirty Eight Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($32).  Brad and Randall Lange are pioneers of sustainable winemaking in Lodi. Now in its fifth generation, the family has turned out a number of excellent wines for the price, including this fruit-forward, expressive cabernet sauvignon. Black cherry and plum notes with hints of cocoa and spice. 

Clean Slate Riesling Mosel 2021 ($13). This is a well-made German Riesling with the perfect balance of sweet and acid. Peach melon notes dominate in this white wine offered at a great price.  
Gaia Monograph Moschofilero Peloponnese 2022 ($16-19). This is a really fun wine to drink in the upcoming summer season. Very fresh lemon, pear notes with bright acidity. Very quaffable and food friendly.  

Root:1 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Estate2019 ($10-12). This cabernet sauvignon from Chile offers a lot of bang for the buck. Sweet cherry compote and a hint of mocha and vanilla present a complex taste profile for not a lot of money.                                                  
 

Winemaker finds pay dirt in Sierra Foothills

May 2, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Finding your way to Chicago Park in the Sierra Foothills of California will not be a walk in the park  – and it is unlikely you’ll have any real reason to go there. The only two things to see are a general store and a post office, hardly the fare of a California tourist. No tasting rooms, cheese shops, or olive oil stores around to sample local culinary delights. Not even a train to transport drunk imbibers from winery to winery. 

But you will find Mark Henry, toiling in vineyards where few others have dared to go -- those who did are long gone. Henry is a determined farmer whose background in importing beer gave him little foundation for growing grapes, not to mention making wine. Why anyone who is Scottish-Irish would wake up one day and declare an allegiance to Italian grapes planted in a forsaken region is beyond the reach of sanity. But Henry is very sane – and incredibly stubborn. 

His search for vineyards is hardly rooted in sound research.  He rented a car and drove straight to the Sierra Foothills, ignoring more popular regions such as Napa Valley, Sonoma and Paso Robles.  

“The only other place I had been in California was Disneyland,” he said. 

The same unconventional thinking went into choosing grapes: forget chardonnay and zinfandel; how about some good old nero d’avola and falanghina? Everyone is dying for that, right? (Don’t worry, there is a happy ending here). 

The first consultant Henry hired advised him not to grow any grapes at his chosen location, so like any stubborn farmer he went shopping for another consultant who would agree with him. The second consultant gave him the same advice as the first. So, he planted his vines, confident nonetheless, and launched Montoliva Vineyards & Winery. 

Henry said he knew the climate was too cold for grapes, but that was around the year 2000 when there already was evidence of a warming trend. He knew his first crop in about four years had a better chance of survival. And, he was right. 

But he knew nothing about growing southern Italian grapes and neither did anyone else he asked. Henry was on his own. He threw out the first three vintages of his falanghia wine before he got it right.  

Remember the Cal-Ital craze that swept the country in the 1980s? Consumers were hot for anything Italian -- adventurous California winemakers were eager to help with buckets of sangiovese, barbera and nebbiolo grown in all the wrong areas: Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino. That fad ultimately fizzed because those wines never reached the quality of Italian wines. 

Henry understood why these faddish wines fizzled out like hula-hoops and he was not about to go down that road.  

“Most were made in a New World style,” he said. “Fruit forward, de-accentuated tannins and acidity, soft and fruity. It was the complete anthesis to, say, sangiovese and aglianico. They want to be aciditic and dry.” 

He said he also liked the earthiness of southern Italian wines. 

While California winemakers were giving the same treatment to Italian grape varieties as they did to cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay, Henry blazed a new trail that mimicked the old-world style as much as possible and learning by trial and error.  He chose this spot in Sierra Foothills – named for Italian-Americans who moved here from Chicago – because he liked the volcanic soil and he wanted elevation for his vineyards to give him the quality of grapes like those grown in Italy.  His vineyards are planted more than 2,000 feet high.  

“I really had an affinity for the dry wines of southern Italy and I could be laser-focused on these varietals. I can be somewhat OCD,” he said. “But this was the fifth – and last – business I started and I knew I needed to find a niche.” 

He also admitted vineyard property was a whole lot cheaper in the Sierra Foothills. 

His most important lesson learned was row orientation.  Grapes ripen differently depending on the exposure to the sun. Henry said he was doing a lot of replanting in the early years to find the most suitable exposure for each variety. He learned that the red grape aglianico is susceptible to mildew with “just a whisper of humidity” and that negroamaro needs special handling. 

“I’m on my third retro-fitting of trellis,” Henry said of his negroamaro.  

Grapes here are still subject to frost, but Henry said the last time frost ruined a crop was in 201 when he got only 30 percent of a normal yield. 

He makes only 1,800 cases of wine a year, most of which is sold through Montoliva’s web site. 

He loves the wine from Brunello di Montalcinos but has given in to the challenges of making a wine of equal quality.  

“Brunello was a goal, but you just can’t do in California,” he said. “If anyone was going to succeed, it was going to be me. I can get that earthiness, dry finish and fruit forwardiness, but I can’t get that depth in mid-palate like you get from Brunello.” 

Maybe he’s not always stubborn. 

With the mistakes in the past, now is a good time to discover these unique wines.  

Montoliva Nero d’Avola Chicago Park 2019 ($35). Popular in Sicily, nero d’Avola hits the earthy notes Henry wants in his old-world-style wines. Dark in color, rich, and packed with ripe blueberry and blackberry flavors. 

Montoliva Chicago Park Teroldego 2018 ($35).  A relatively obscure grape in Italy and rare grape in California, this wine has a unique and very rustic style with jammy cherry and strawberry notes and a good dose of licorice. Forward in style and light on tannins, it is bested suited to pastas and burgers. 

Montoliva Chicago Park Falanghina 2022 ($28). The falanghia we loved from Italy is acidic and lighter in palate weight than this version.  But we like its abundant fruit, fresh acidity, apple and citrus aromas and round, thirst-quenching finish. 

Wine picks 

Radio Boka Castilla Tempranillo 2021 ($12). This producer of inexpensive wines from Spain offers a simple but delicious quaffer with red fruit notes and a hint of cinnamon. Dry and balanced, it’s a good companion to appetizers, pasta and burgers. 

Chateau Dru Beaucaillou Madame de Beaucaillou 2019 ($25). The grapes for this great value come from this outstanding producer’s new property in the Haut-Medoc. It is a blend of 68 percent merlot, 17 percent cabernet sauvignon, 13 percent petit verdot and 2 percent cabernet franc.  Aged in oak for 12 months, it has good concentration for the price with ripe plum and blueberry notes and a dash of clove and pepper.  This is an outstanding value for those who want to buy Bordeaux but can’t afford the high prices of first-growths.  We stocked up. 

 Fiddlestix Vineyard

April 24, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DAR 

Kathy Joseph was pretty much alone when in 1998 she converted a garden into a vineyard in what is now known as the Sta. Rita Hills AVA.  All she wanted was 15 acres, but Santa Barbara County regulations required her to plant 100 if she was going to have a vineyard. She made wine from the Fiddlestix Vineyard, but sold most of her fruit – mostly pinot noir -- to other producers.   

The vineyard was memorialized on the labels of some of the great pinot noir producers – we fondly remember those made by Fess Parker. Fiddlestix even had a cameo appearance in the movie “Sideways.” 

Joseph sold Fiddlestix Vineyard and is now focused exclusively on making wine under her Fiddlehead Cellars label, which she launched in 1989. The “head fiddle,” as she calls herself, is still a one-woman show that takes Joseph from the Willamette Valley to Sta. Rita Hills where she hones her pinot noirs from different soils and different climates. She spent 15 years in Oregon and now transports her purchased grapes from there to her winery in Lompoc, California. 

“Balance drives my brand,” Joseph said in a recent virtual meeting with wine writers. “I’m looking for something unique, so I’m focused on varietals that weren’t well recognized domestically.” 

That motivation took her from pinot noir to gruner veltliner, the primary white grape variety planted in Austria but making inroads elsewhere. 

“I like to surprise people,” she said. “I added gruner veltliner because it was time to explore new horizons. It was a giant experiment that was highly successful.” 

Most gruner veltliners are delicious on summer days but largely one-dimensional. Joseph wanted something more from it.  

“On a whim I wanted to see if I could make gruner veltliner successful. I just liked drinking it and wanted to make it in a more serious style. I wanted weight and spice,” she said. 

The 2016 Fiddlehead Gruner Veltliner ($30) we tasted had all of that: weight, velvet mouthfeel, fresh ginger, honey melon and stone-fruit flavors. Given its age, the acidity rounds off to reveal a smooth texture. 

Joseph eschews making chardonnay – “not my cup of tea” – and instead is dedicated to pinot noir and sauvignon blanc. The pinot noirs are unusual in that they are aged for seven years or longer. Joseph thinks this is the age at which the pinot noirs come together.  

“I don’t expect the customer to wait for them to come around,” she said. 

We tasted two 2015 pinot noirs – the Seven Twenty Eight Mile Market ($46) from Sta. Rita Hills and the Oldsville Single Vineyard ($60) from Oregon -- and an extraordinary Loppaloza Barrel Select ($88) from the 2014 vintage.  The Oldsville sources grapes from Chelahem Mountains but Joseph has to use “Oregon” on the label because it is actually vinified in California. Their age gives these wines a Burgundian personality. Consumers looking for aged pinot noirs but not patient to wait can enjoy what Fiddlehead has to offer.  

Joseph said she doesn’t know whether she will source future pinot noirs from her former vineyard, but for now she’s content in releasing the cache of aged pinot noirs from other vintages. She maintains a house on the Fiddlestix property.  

J Vineyards 

J Vineyards was founded by Judy Jordan, the daughter of Tom Jordan who was the founder of Jordan Winery Vineyards in the 1980s. Originally a sparkling wine producer, J Vineyards also currently sells still red and white wines.  

Now owned by E&J Gallo, J Vineyards continues to produce delicious still and sparkling wines from fruit grown in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma County.  

We recently tasted some offerings from J Vineyards and especially enjoyed the following: The J Vineyard J Cuvee 20 Russian River Valley N/V ($38) is an ongoing commemoration of their 20th anniversary. This is a fantastic sparkling wine that competes on the same level as real French champagne. Citrus, pear and toasty elements blend to create a wonderful bubbly mélange.  

The J Vineyards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2017 ($40) is another solid wine offering classic effusive cherry, berry and cola notes in a wonderful presentation. 

Wine picks 

Markham Napa Valley Merlot 2020 ($29). Markham has not wavered from its merlot program despite challenges from movies and consumer who have soured on the varietal.  We are thankful.  While it makes many single-vineyard merlots, this Napa Valley version is a great value.  Plum aromas integrate nicely with ripe black cherry and toffee flavors. 

Markham The Altruist 2018 ($29).  Kimberlee Nicholls leads a team of all-female winemakers who have come up with genius wines like this Bordeaux-like blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot. You won’t find many blends of this quality for the money. Delicious, ripe black cherry flavors with broad aromatics and a velvet texture. 

Firesteed Oregon Pinot Noir 2021 ($17). Simple but tasty, this Oregon pinot noir is a good deal amongst luxury-priced pinot noirs. Cherry aromas with red fruit flavors and a hint of cinnamon and vanilla. 

The Paring Red 2018 ($25). This charming and approachable blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot and petit verdot has sweet red fruit and cassis flavors with a dash of vanilla and chocolate. A great value. 

Virginian wines improving with the help of petit verdot

April 17, 2023

Twenty years ago we sipped wine from Virginia and wondered why anyone bothered. Although the state has a long history in grape growing, the quality never seemed to rise to a level equal to that of the West Coast. Maryland had the same problem, mostly because of challenging weather that was either too cold, too warm or too wet. 

The wines have improved dramatically over the decades, as a recent tasting of several petit verdots proved. 

Over the years, Virginia has capitalized on making its wine route a tourist destination. Rolling hills and beautiful tasting rooms beckon travelers from neighboring states and elsewhere. Its festivals and its heralded Governor’s Cup Competition has brought more attention to its success. 

Jessica Gatewood, winemaker of Barren Ridge Winery said, “Virginia wine is evolving as we begin to know our soil and climate. There has been a lot of hits and misses over time. In the early 2000s, the focus was on viognier and cabernet franc. Now, there is a new evolution toward petit verdot. We’re learning from our mistakes.” 

With climate change came more hospitable growing conditions in Virginia, but those winemakers who have shown success have focused on choosing varieties that grow best in their region. The two grape varieties gaining a strong foothold here are petit manseng, a rich white wine grape discovered in Southwest France, and petit verdot, a variety relegated to only a supporting role in Bordeaux.  

We recently tasted a handful of petit verdots from four Virginia vineyards. The grape variety produces a dark purple wine with lots of body and tannin. It is generally characterized by blackberry and plum fruit with hints of spice, leather and chocolate.  The wines we tasted embrace that style, although in some cases we picked up some green pepper notes that we didn’t like so much. 

Eric Schenkel, winemaker of Mountain Run Winery near Culpeper, said that petit verdot has no problem growing in Virginia’s climate unlike other grape varieties. He said the biggest shock was the amount of potassium. An excess amount can increase the pH of the must and lead to unstable wines. Adding tartaric acid helps, but also threatens to change a wine’s flavor. 

Schenkel said as long as you keep these levels in check, the grape variety will produce astounding wines.  

Rob Cox of Paradise Springs winery said the petit verdot stands up to Virginia’s humid summers.  

“It can handle mitigating factors that can be vastly different between vintages,” he said. “Heat spikes create wines with more phenolic ripeness.” 

Petit verdot is emerging as the primary red grape of Virginia. Said Matthew Meyer, winemaker of Williamsburg Winery, “Everyone seems to be on the same wavelength. It’s exciting to see petit verdot emerge and being a part of defining it.” 

Here are four wines to try: 

Mountain Run Winery Petit Verdot Culpeper 2021 ($45). 

Paradise Springs Brown Bear Vineyard Petit Verdot Clifton 2021 ($45). 

Williamsburg Winery Reserve Petit Verdot Virginia Peninsula AVA 2021 ($49).  

Barren Ridge Petit Verdot Shenandoah Valley AVA 2021 ($29).  

Earth Day 

As Earth Day approaches this Saturday, let’s give a toast to all those winemakers and grape growers who have adopted environmentally friendly practices. 

It is no longer special for a winemaker to announce that his grapes are organically grown or that he has introduce biodynamic farming. The growth in organic farming attests to the value of adopting good vineyard practices – not just to the environment but to the quality of the wine. Sacrifices in flavor and body is no longer the fear associated with organic farming. 

We are also noticing several winemakers who are using lighter glass for their bottles. Unfortunately, there are still too many winemakers who are using heavier bottles for their premium wines. Some winemakers feel that lighter-weight bottles give the impression of a cheap wine. But that’s no longer the case. There are winemakers who seal expensive wines with screw tops; they should be able to sell premium wines in lighter bottles. 

Symington Family Estates, for instance, has adopted lighter glass bottles for many of its wines, including Six Grapes Reserve Port. 

Wine picks 

J. Lohr Estates South Ridge Syrah 2021 ($15).  This wine, like many in the J. Lohr portfolio, is a great value. Bright blackberry and cherry flavors with a hint of pepper and spice. Floral aromas and easy to drink. To keep it interesting, there is a bit of viognier, mourvedre, grenache noir and roussanne mixed with the syrah.  

Frank Family Vineyards Carneros Pinot Noir 2021 ($40).  This soft and cuddly pinot noir from Sonoma County has generous black cherry and cinnamon aromas with ripe strawberry flavors.  Deliciously quaffable for any occasion. 

MacRostie Sparkling Brut ($48). Only in its second vintage, this Russian River Valley cuvee of chardonnay and pinot noir is simply delicious. Citrus, pineapple and apple notes with a hint of toasted almonds. 

Masi Riserva Costasera Valpolicella Veneto 2016 ($85). This classic amarone knocks it out of the ballpark with good concentration and ripe cherry flavors and hints of vanilla, cinnamon and clove.  It is a special cru made up of corvina, rondinella, molinara and osseleta.   

Souleil Vin de Bonte le Rouge 2022 ($18).  This simple blend of grenache and syrah makes for a perfect quaffing wine as the weather warms. Black cherry and cassis flavors with a dash of pepper and rosemary. Great value. 

Number of wineries is growing

April 10, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

We are often asked an opinion of an obscure wine from California. People are perplexed that as writers we have never heard of XYZ winery. With more than 11,600 wineries in the United Staes, we are still discovering new wines despite being in this busiiness for more than 35 years. 

According to recent statistics from the Winery Database, there are only 71 large wineries – those producing more than a half million cases a year – that count for most of the wine production. Smaller producers – those who produce less than 5,000 cases a year – account for 82 percent of all U.S. wineries. 

The industry added a staggering 400 wineries in 2022. Since 2019 the growth has been 1,215 new wineries. Even Alaska now has 15 wineries; Hawaii has 6. 

This is an amazing growth rate, especially in light of flat consumption. Young people, except for those in their 30s, aren’t drinking much wine and that portends ominous warnings for the industry as baby boomers die off. We suspect in the next decade we’ll see the market shrink. 

The good news for those who do drink wine is that there are more small producers making great wine for those who have the patience and money to order them online. 

We have been tasting countless wines from producers who make less than 2,000 cases a year. In general, these are great wines focused more on quality and quantity.  These are more often than not extraordinary wines that simply don’t have the production to get them into a national distribution stream. You need to let your fingers to the online shopping to discover them. 

Here are several we have recently discovered that will delight your palates: 

Cass Rockin’ One Paso Robles 2020 ($49). Another great Rhone-variety blend from Paso Robles, this wine rocks. The blend is 40 percent grenache, 32 percent mourvedre, 21 percent syrah and 7 percent petite sirah. Big plum and black cherry aromas with a spike of spice are followed by sweet black cherry flavors with hints of mocha and clove.  This wine goes down easy alone but would make a good match to barbecued foods.  

Fulldraw Drift 2020 ($65).  This is an exciting, tasty blend of 80 percent clairette blanche and 20 percent grenache blanc. Clairette blanche is actually an ancient grape widely planted in southern France and widely planted in the Rhone Valley. You may not recognize it because it is often blended, but here it’s the star of this terrific wine.  McMahon said he was blown away with clairette after tasting it while honeymooning in Chateauneuf du Pape. 

Vinoce Lori’s Lucky Penny Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($45). With a little oak exposure, this sauvignon is rounder than most. Robust floral aromatics with velvet stone fruit and citrus flavors.  

McPrice Myers Sel de la Terre Paso Robles Grenache 2020 ($55). One of our favorite Paso Robles grenaches, this wine is well balance with lots of black cherry and strawberry notes and a hint of mocha. 

Cordant Wills Hills Grenache 2020 ($62). This grenache from western Paso Robles has fresh raspberry and strawberry flavors. Floral aromas. 

Alkina Kin Night Sky 2021 ($47). The New Frontier Wine Co. Is a team of 44 international wine brands based in downtown Napa. Among its wines we recently tasted were two from Alkina in the Barossa Valley. These wines capture the spirit of delicious reds from Down Under but are also beautiful on the outside. Created by South Australian artist Damien Coulthard, the labels used ochre pigments to create his interpretation of the energy coming from soils and rocks and night sky of Alkina. This wine is a delicious blend of grenache, shiraz and mataro. It bursts with bright red fruit flavor, plums and a dash of spice. The 2021 Alkina Kin Shiraz ($36) explodes in the mouth with effusive blackberry flavors, a floral nose and fine tannins to make it a great wine to pair with beef, pasta and the like. 

Meeker Knight’s Valley Viognier 2021 ($45). Lucas Meeker took over the winemaking after his father’s passing last year. Ready to celebrate its 40th anniversary, the Sonoma County winery continues to churn out excellent wines. This viognier has pronounced tropical fruit and peach notes with a soft mouthfeel and long finish.  

Wine picks 

Three Sticks Monarch Pinot Noir 2021 ($75). Bill Price continues to knock out hits from this Sonoma winery. The debut of t is wilne, it is named after the monarch butterflis that are commonly seen as they migrate. Blackberry and plum dominate the palate.  

Migration Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2021 ($46). Smooth texture and a decent price for a quality pinot noir, this wine has ripe cherry and raspberry flavors with a touch of spice and cassis. 

Vina Cobos Cocodrilo Corte 2020 ($30). If there is ever an Argentine wine you want to buy, this is it. Founded by Paul Hobbs, Vina Cobos has a delicious yet serious blend of cabernet sauvignon (76 percent), malbec, cabernet franc and petite verdot. From the cool climate region of Lujan de Cuyo, this blend has deep color, effusive black cherry, spice and herbal notes with easy tannins and medium body for current drinking. 

The wines of Uruguay offer surprising quality

March 18, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

You are probably familiar with the malbecs and torrontes of Argentina and the sauvignon blancs and cabernet sauvignons of Chile.  But did you ever try wines made from tannat grapes grown in Uruguay? 

Most people are lucky to know how to spell the country not to mention where to find it on a map. But the people of this South American country – where cows outnumber people 4 to 1 – have been making wine since the mid-1800s.  

Uruguay’s vineyard planting is relatively small. Its total 14,450 acres of vines put it close to that of Alexander Valley in California.  Its maritime influence – the only South American terroir whose climate is affected by the Atlantic Ocean – is ideal. White wines are grown closer to the Atlantic while red wines are grown farther away where grapes like tannat need a lot of warmth to fully ripen. There is no problem with water -- rainfall averages 39 inches close to the ocean and as much as 63 inches in some interior regions. 

We recently shared several Uruguay wines on a Zoom program with several winemakers and wine writer Joaquin Hidalgo. 

Tannat – also grown in southwest France – is the most prominent grape variety here. Introduced to Uruguay by Basque settlers in the 19th century, it is often blended with other grapes. Tannat grown in Uruguay is blessed by a maritime climate and clay soil, elements Hidalgo believe give it a more refreshing leaner style than that grown in Argentina. Nonetheless, some of these wines are not for the faint of heart because tannat’s thick skins produce a lot of deep color but also gritty tannin.  Those that have riper fruit show how some winemakers are trying to moderate the harshness of the grape. 

We found they benefit from aeration and they most probably will evolve with some cellar time – a decade at least. 

To improve quality, Uruguay has created a VCP label that identifies the fine wines as Wine of Preferential Quality.  Although they may not have appellations as we understand them, six distinct winemaking regions have been identified: Northern Shore, Southern Shore, Metropolitan, Oceanic, Center and North.  Metropolitan accounts for two-thirds of the country’s wineries. 

Here are few examples we recently tasted: 

Monte Vide Eu Bouza 2019 ($67).  This was our favorite of the tasting. The merlot and tempranillo in this blend tame the firm tannins from the tannat grapes. These tannins are round and the texture is supple with rich red fruit and spice character.  

Pisano RPF Tannat Reserva 2016 ($24). The family’s personal reserve sometimes released to the public has ripe raspberry and blackberry character, spice, chocolate and forest floor notes with big tannins.  Concentrated with pronounced alcohol. 

Alto de la Ballena Tannat-Viognier Reserva 2018 ($24). The 15 percent viognier in this big wine provides lift to the aromatics with red cherry, spice and floral elements. The flavor profile is focused on black cherries and some herbs. The chewy tannins give the wine good body. 

Gimenez Mendez Alta Reserva Tannat 2020 ($18). Black cherry and plum flavors with hints of rosemary and vanilla abound in this firm tannat. Great value. 

enato 

Italy is making some of the best values in wine. Consumers would be wise to seek them out. 

We recently tasted three wines from Zenato that we highly recommend. They are full of flavor, easy to drink and versatile with food. 

Nadia Zenato is not only involved in making wine in a male-dominated business, but he has a passion for making jewlery, an interest she had since childhood. Her collection is inspired by the world of wine. She also launched Zenato Academy for young artists pursuing photography. 

The 2019 Zenato Alanera Rosso Veronese ($18) is an expressive blend of corvina, rondinella, corvinone, merlot and cabernet sauvignon.  Its delicious richness comes from a variation of the appassimento method common to this region. Despite the reasonable price, this wine is concentrated with cherry, coffee and tobacco aromas. The tannins are smooth and refined. 

The 2018 Zenato Ripassa Valpolicella Superiore ($32) is a step up in complexity. Corvina, oseleta and rondinella grapes work harmoniously to produce a velvety wine with dark fruit character and a hint of spice. The wine is aged in French oak for 18 months and held in bottle for another six months prior to release. 

The 2019 Zenato Valpolicella Superiore ($19) is made from the same grape varieties as the Ripassa, but it is simpler – yet equally delicious. It does not have the oak aging as the Ripassa but it is fresh with ripe black cherry flavors and a hint of spice and chocolate. The Superiore designation requires that the grapes are harvested at a slightly higher sugar level. Although that generally means more alcohol, it is not obvious in this supple wine. 

Wine picks 

Ventisquero Ventice 2019 ($40).  This tasty red blend from Chile shows off ripe blackberry and spice notes with hints of mineral and black pepper.  Beautifully textured and round. 

Landmark Vineyards Overlook Pinot Noir 2021 ($27). This producer makes many pinot noirs, but this assembly of grapes from Monterey County, Sonoma County and Santa Barbera should not be “overlooked.” It has broad red berry aromas with a hint of vanilla and spice. Flavors include ripe strawberry and cherry flavors with herbal notes. 

Domane Wachau Riesling 2021 ($19). We like riesling with fish because it complements delicate fish like Dover sole or sea bass. This one has stone fruit and ripe pear notes.  

Meeker Winemakers’ Handprint Merlot 2018 ($52). People collect this wine for the bottle alone – each one has a unique, painted handprint of the winemaker – but what’s inside is just as attractive. Blended with a bit of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and syrah, it has an old-world feel. Bright red berry flavors with herbal aromas and firm structure. Charlie and Molly Meeker are celebrating the Dry Creek winery’s 40th anniversary this year. 

Cinzano’s brunellos show the region’s gems; malbecs

March 11, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

When it comes to prestigious Italian wines, few can compete with the dense red wines from the Piedmont. But often forgotten in that discussion is the wine from Montalcino. It is here where the sangiovese grosso grape of Brunello di Montalcino is a big step up from the sangiovese of the much simpler chianti.  

Anyone who has had a decade-old Brunello knows from taste that the wine is so delicious when the initial bright fruit character mellows.  

Several producers just outside the hilltop town of Montalcino are making more modern wines that don’t require years of aging. That is what we found in three Brunello di montalcinos we recently tasted from Tenuta Col d’Orcia. 

Now operated by Count Francesco Marone Cinzano, the property dates to the 14th century. But the winemaking has changed a lot through the centuries. Most recently, Cinzano introduced organic and biodynamic farming to the 370 acres of vineyards. The mineral zeolite has been added to the soil to retain water and nutrients. Water is becoming scarcer in European wine regions and only recently has irrigation been allowed in this region. Cinzano said he as dug lakes and wells to augment natural rain water.  

One thing that has not changed is the use of large barrels, which Cinzano called “the magic formula” for brunello. Wine aged in large barrels get some oxygen to allow it to evolve more slowly and enhance color and flavors.  

We loved the 2017 Col d’Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG ($64) for its abundant black cherry flavors and enticing hints of spice and easy tannins. Produced every year since the 1970s, this wine has an approachable New World style.  

The 2016 Col d’Orcia “Nastagio” Brunello di Montalcino DOCG ($90) is one of two single-vineyard brunellos. More complex, it has layers of red fruit, riper tannins and a long, dense finish. It was our favorite. 

The 2015 Col d’Orcia “Poggio al Vento” Brunello di Montalcino DOCG ($173) is only made in great vintages. Cinzano said he realized some time ago there was something special about this vineyard that was best bottled without the influence of other vineyards. Fossils and stones mix with sandy soil to bring a mineral note and intense tannins. It is aged for three years in large Slovonian and Allier oak barrels and then bottled for three years before release. 

Brunello di Montalcino is enjoying a string of five great vintages. Now is the time to enjoy them. 

Malbec 

Argentine malbecs represent some of the best wine values in the world.  Here are a few we recently enjoyed: 

Terrazas de los Andes Malbec Reserva 2020 ($20). Expressive, fresh black fruit and violet aromas followed by delicious blackberry and plum flavors. A very good buy. The vineyards here are among the highest in elevation in Argentina – one is higher than 5,300 feet! 

Domaine Bousquet Malbec Reserve 2021 ($17). Merlot, syrah and cabernet sauvignon are blended into this layered and delicious malbec. Red cherry and strawberry notes with a hint of spice and an earthy feel. 

Bodegas Bianci L10 Malbec 2021 ($17). This producer is consistent on making good malbec with depth and character.  Generous flowery aromas with strawberry and raspberry flavors and an underlying minerality.  For a few bucks more, the L10 Premium Malbec ($30) is more complex. 

Coen Uco Valley Classic Malbec 2019 ($25). Forward blackberry and plum flavors with hints of cocoa and mint. Very easy going. 

Bianchi L10 Malbec Mendoza 2021 ($25-28). A partnership of Bianchi and the much celebrated and world cup champion Lionel Messi. This is an impressive malbec with big bold and rich flavors with notes of cherries and plum. The perfect match with big bold meat dishes.  

South African pinot noir 

Pinot noir lovers know to turn to one of three main growing areas to source their juice. Burgundy is recognized as the ancestral home of this wonderful grape. California followed with pinot noir finding welcoming growing areas in California’s cooler climates. More recently Oregon pinot noir has gained a following among pinotphiles. In addition to these three areas New Zealand is making a credible move presenting some very tasty pinot noir.  

Apart from the above areas other wine producing counties also put out a smattering of pinot noir that only occasionally rise to consumer’s attention. So, we were intrigued to taste a pair of pinot noirs from South Africa, of all places. These wines originated in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley on South Africa’s most southern coast bordering the South Atlantic Ocean and only 2,400 miles from Antarctica. Formerly known as Walker Bay this area features cool temperatures and windy conditions that appear to offer a hospitable climate for both pinot noir and chardonnay. However, only 20 wineries produce wine in this region.  

We were very impressed with the quality of their wines which also included one chardonnay. Although a sampling of only three wines in a region that has only produced wine since 1975 is not definitive nor comprehensive, we will be looking out for more examples of Hamel-en Aarde wine offerings.  

We recommend all three although they may be difficult to find due to low production volume. 

Storm Chardonnay Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge South Africa 2021 ($42). This reminded us of a well-made white burgundy from the Macon region of France. No apparent oak but a nice smoothness from light aging in new and used French oak.  

Hamilton Russel Vineyards Pinot Noir Hemel-en-Aarde Valley South Africa 2021 ($55-65). Hamilton Russel is the original winery in this region. Bright ripe cherry fruit with a touch of sour cherry. A very light touch of oak and a style that echoes some high-end California pinot noir. Bosman Family Vineyards Pinot Noir Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley South Africa  ($25-30). This pinot noir projects a distinctive burgundian style. Gamey pinot noir notes with a hint of earth and a wee whiff of smoke. Excellent value!  

Wine notes 

Chateau De Rouanne Vinsobres 2019 ($35). We haven’t tasted many wines from the Rhone Valley appellation of Vinsobres, so we were pleased to sample this wine. Crafted from 50 percent grenache, 40 percent syrah and 10 percent mourvedre, this wine is bold and offers abundant cherry and berry fruit notes and a streak of minerality along with agreeable soft tannins. A perfect partner with big bold winter meals.                               

Matthews Claret Columbia Valley 2020 ($30-35). A Bordeaux inspired red wine featuring all of the traditional Red Bordeaux varietals. Notes of cherry, cassis and mocha blend to form a very classic wine. Pair with winter red meat dishes.  
 

Big wines to go with that big steak

March 4, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

The cold weather that is still embracing us is signaling a food craving for something warm. If you’re anything like us, we are turning to chili, stew, casseroles and soups to offset the chill of a brisk walk or an outdoor chore.  Although not quite in the same category, a good steak is a worthy option.  

This is a time we dig into our cellars for wines that we have aged for decades. Not everyone is so fortunate to have a cellar of mature wines, but there are plenty of current releases just as noteworthy. Only with beef and wild game can the tannins on these big wines be tamed.  We know these wines are expensive, but maybe you can occasionally splurge to get through a cold day confined to the house. 

Here are several luxurious red wines to share that moment: 

Viader Black Label 2018 ($150).  This is an eclectic and rich blend of estate-grown cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc and malbec. Ripe blackberry, cassis and plum fruit with hints of mocha and baking spice.  Opulent dark fruit aromas.  

Gamble Family Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($60). Petit verdot, malbec, merlot and cabernet franc are blended with this Bordeaux-like wine from a producer who is not embarrassed to call himself a farmer first, a winemaker second.  Blackberry, cassis and vanilla aromas are followed by jammy and rich blackberry, plum flavors with a hint of mocha and cedar.  

Faust The Pact Coombsville Napa Valley 2019 ($125). We loved this cabernet sauvignon from the start but despite the soft mouthfeel, it has the guts to improve with age. Lots of blue fruit and mineral aromas with black cherry, cassis and herb flavors.  

La Jota Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Franc 2019 ($125).  Winemaker Chris Carpenter turns out one hit after the other for this property, which is celebrating its 125th anniversary. Not many winemakers can produce a cabernet franc that can stand on its own without massive support from other grape varieties. But from the cabernet franc grown in mountain vineyards, he gets concentration, complexity and depth. Violet and dried herbal aromas give way to blackberry and black cherry flavors with a touch of kirsch. 

Chappellet Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($325). Pritchard Hill is arguably a winemaker’s most sought-after vineyard in Napa Valley. Rising from 800 to 1,800 feet, the vineyard has 40 blocks of cabernet sauvignon from which winemaker Phillip Corallo-Titus draws his fruit for this colossal wine.  He said the 2019 “strikes a balance between opulence and elegance that is both thought provoking and profoundly rewarding.” Indeed, it is. Very complex and ageworthy with floral, cassis aromas and ripe dark berry flavors with hints of vanilla bean and spice. Very nuanced.  

Baldacci Fraternity Red Wine Napa Valley 2019 ($70). Cabernet sauvignon makes up 46 percent of this blend with the balance coming from merlot, syrah and cabernet franc grapes.  With this breadth, the wine is fittingly broad-shouldered with blue fruit and olive aromas, strawberry and pomegranate flavors, and long in the finish. The tannins are big here, so decant or age.  

Stags’ Leap Winery Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($110). Full bodied with fine tannins and intense red berry, herbal aromas. Ripe cassis and blackberry flavors.  

Sullivan Coeur de Vigne 2019 ($130). Celebrating its 50th anniversary, Sullivan has something to cheer with this spectacular edition of its vaunted Coeur de Vigne. There is a good dose of merlot in the blend to soften the Rutherford-grown cabernet sauvignon.  Rich and round with black cherry, spice and pepper flavors and layers of aromas ranging from boysenberry to forest floor.  

Sosie Cabernet Sauvignon Moon Mountain District Charlie Smith Vineyard 2019 ($75). Only 75 barrels of this beauty were made. A big wine but balanced offering black cherry notes elegant oak with some herbs and a mocha finish.  

Cuvaison Diablo Syrah 2019 ($70). Syrah makes serious wines in Northern Rhone Valley, but it can also be complex in Napa Valley. Diablo is the clay soil that nourish the 21-year-old vines that give this syrah good complexity and depth. Although the tannins are soft, the fruit is abundant with plum and currant notes augmented by hints of black pepper and leather. 

Darioush Signature Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 ($125). The fruit for this spectacular wine come from Mount Veeder and Napa Valley AVAs. Great concentration and fresh fruit character with black fruit flavors, depth and balance. 

Cabernet values 

Looking for something special to go with red meat but more reasonably priced? Here are some suggestions: 

Textbook Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($33).  This is a delightful, balanced and approachable cabernet sauvignon that is reasonably priced for Napa Valley.  Blueberry and mint aromas are followed by jammy dark fruit flavors and a long finish. 

Josh Cellars North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($22). This is a great deal in cabernet sauvignon if you aren’t look for massive wines like those mentioned above.  In a more handsome and hefty bottle than its popular introductory red wine, this cabernet has an expressive aroma of plums and black cherries with hints of violets and nuts. The black cherry notes continue on the palate with the addition of vanilla and mocha. 

Wine picks 

Ventisquero Grey Valle de Colchagua Apalta Vineyard Red Blend 2017 ($25). From a single block, the grapes for this complex Chilean blend include garnacha, carinena, and mataro. Floral and cassis aromas are followed by fresh cherry and raspberry flavors with a hint of blueberries and pepper. Good tannins give this aging potential but it can be easily enjoyed now. This is a great deal for anyone looking for complex wines or who want to start a wine cellar on a low budget. 

Oraculo Tempranillo 2019 ($89). This is a complex wine from the Ribera del Duero region and also made from old vines only in exceptional years.  Rich and opulent with black cherry and tobacco notes. 

Fulldraw on target in Paso Robles

February 27, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Connor McMahon was plowing his way through college in rural Iowa when his father poured him a glass of wine. Maybe at age 20 it wasn’t his first alcoholic beverage, but this was his first wine – and not just any wine. It was Chateau Beaucastel, one of the greatest wines in Chateauneuf du Pape.  

He was hooked.  He took a summer job for a wine retailer during his last two summers of college. One day the owner suggested they taste some Rhone wines together. He doubted anything could live up to Chateau Beaucastel, but he was willing to indulge his boss. The wines were from Paso Robles and McMahon was hooked on not just wine, but Rhone varietals made in Paso Robles.  

“The density and complexity are what I fell in love with,” he said. 

He moved to Paso Robles in 2011 and for six years worked at Booker, an historic producer whose grenache and syrahs were legendary. While there he bought 100 acres adjacent to Booker and sold the grapes to Booker who bottled the wine with McMahon’s label: Fulldraw. 

“Fulldraw” is an archery term that defines the point when the archer has fully drawn his bow.  

“Growing up in Iowa we had to find different was to get competitive with friends,” McMahon said. “We shot bow semi-competitively. It was an individual challenge much like wine.” 

His crush on Rhone wine came full circle in 2016 when he launched his own brand with the release of three wines under the Fulldraw label. He lives on the property with his wife, Rebecca, and their two children. 

We’ve had a lot of grenache, syrah and mourvedre from Paso Robles but few have impressed us as much as those from Fulldraw in the Willow Creek District AVA.   

The limestone soil and maritime influence in The Templeton Gap of west side Paso Robles is ideal for McMahon’s dream grapes. The harvest season’s diurnal shift in temperatures range from 45 degrees at night to as much as 100 during the day. Late afternoon winds from the Pacific allows the grapes to recover from heat stress and retain their natural acidity.   

When we noted his grenache is much different than the simple versions we have tasted from the region, he laughed. 

“We don’t make wimpy grenache.” 

Indeed, the 2019 Hard Point Grenache ($90) was firm, delicious and ageworthy. Chateau Beaucastel, take note. 

McMahon is focused on quality and his prices show that. He reduces clusters per vine and as a result gets only three tons of fruit per acre. That’s the key to making these wines so intense.  

“I want a ‘wow’ factor and I want a wine that can be cellared for 12 years,” he said. 

His annual production is only 2,000 cases and most of the wine is sold through his web site. FD2 and Chopping Block are available nationally. The others are available on Fulldraw’s website.  

Fulldraw FD2 2018 ($55).  There is more in this bottle than just the appeal of a very attractive label. A delicious but sturdy blend of 60 percent grenache and 40 percent syrah, it reminded us of many wines we’ve recently enjoyed from the Rhone Valley. Fresh and juicy strawberry and raspberry flavors burst from the grenache component while the syrah comes behind with body and texture. It has instant appeal but the fine tannins indicate it will get even better with age.  

Fulldraw Chopping Bock 2019 ($90). The artwork for this label was inspired by a cleaver nestled firmly in a chopping block, a mainstay in the couple’s kitchen. Heaven knows what they are making that requires a cleaver, but it’s a beautiful label and an even better wine. A blend of syrah, grenache and mouvedre, it has lively, intense dark and red fruit character with fine tannins and a long finish. 

Fulldraw Drift 2020 ($65).  This is an exciting, tasty blend of 80 percent clairette blanche and 20 percent grenache blanc. Clairette blanche is actually an ancient grape widely planted in southern France. You may not recognize it because it is often blended, but here it’s the star of this terrific wine.  McMahon said he was blown away with clairette after tasting it while honeymooning in Chateauneuf du Pape. 

Consumption drops 

National Wine Day recently passed with indication that Americans will be drinking anything but.  

Data is consistently showing that consumption is on the decline, not just in the United States but in France, the epicenter for wine production.  Red wine consumption in France plunged by 32 percent over the last decade. Particularly hit hard was the 18 to 35 age group.  

The decline was attributed to less consumption of red meat and an increase in households with single parents who did not want to drink alone – reasons that seem odd to us. More likely, people are turning to alternative beverages. 

The trend has compelled growers to rip up vines. In just Bordeaux, producers are suggesting a reduction of 10 percent and they want the French government to compensate them at a rate of more than $10,000 per acre. They also want to destroy unsold stock to push up prices. 

The only region seeing growth is Burgundy, which is because they had to reach into their stocks to make up for production dampened by 2021 frost. 

In the United States, wine sales are flat and in some categories it is declining – certainly not according to our personal consumption! 

Wine picks 

Macan Clasico Rioja 2018 ($60).  A collaboration between Rotschild and Vega Sicilia, this approachable tempranillo shows off fresh red and dark fruit flavors and moderate tannins. It needs to be decanted to reveal the many nuances.  

Villa Robles Mistral Vineyard Chardonnay 2020 ($25). This tasty chardonnay from southern Monterey has a creamy mouthfeel and notes of apples and mango with a hint of vanilla. 

MacRostie Nightwing Vineyard Chardonnay 2020 ($48).  This nicely textured, single-vineyard chardonnay citrus aromas and flavors with hints of vanilla and mango. The producer’s 2020 Sonoma Coast chardonnay ($28) is also delightful with its big acidity and apple and pear notes. 

Vinoce and its start with comedian Robin Williams

February 20, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

Brian Nuss was in the construction business in the 1980s when he got the call to build a 20,000-square-foot home for the late comedian Robin Williams. The site was 600 acres on Mt. Veeder, not only a perfect, isolated location for the comedian’s privacy but also a great location for a vineyard.  Williams’ father was after his son to “do something” with all that property and suggested a vineyard. The actor turned back to Nuss, who knew nothing about growing grapes but who was given the assignment.

Nuss brought in Robert Craig, who at the time was president and general manager of The Hess Collection winery. He had a lot of experience developing vineyards, including on Mt. Veeder. Twenty-five acres were planted to cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. The first vintage of Vinoce was 1996.

Nuss and his wife Lori developed a long-term friendship with Williams. They left the property before the comedian’s death in 2014.

“He could tell the same dirty jokes over and over and they’d still crack me up,” Nuss said of Williams. “I think it was the delivery.”

The name “Vinoce” is a tribute to Nuss’ mixed heritage and loosely defined means “wine nut.”  “Nuss” means “nut” in German and “noce” is nut in Italian. “Vin,” of course, is wine.

You’d have to be a nut to endure a business that had its challenges. His wife died in 2016. His friends Craig and Williams died. Fire storms destroyed the 2017 and 2020 vintages. Instead of turning back, however, Nuss set his future on reinvention.

He is releasing two new wines, zinfandel labeled The Grapplier and a St. Helena cabernet sauvignon labeled Piccola Noce. He continues to make several wines from purchased grapes under the Vinoce label.

He also is building a business for his sons – Tim and Tyler – to take over.

In 2013 he brought in Keith Emerson as winemaker. Emerson worked 20 years in the wine industry, including a stint making 100-point wines for Vineyard 29.

We tasted an outstanding 2021 Vinoce Lori’s Lucky Penny Sauvignon Blanc ($45) that had some oak exposure to give it a round mouthfeel. The label is based on his late wife’s discovery of a penny outside the stadium of their beloved San Francisco Giants in 2010. That was the year the team won the World Series. She attributed the victory to her lucky penny.

We also enjoyed the 2019 Vinoce St. Helena Cabernet Sauvignon ($60) for its balance.  Smooth, black fruit character and surprisingly mature tannins.

Vinoce is a small producer, making less than 2,000 cases in a good year.  Nuss said he wants to keep production manageable and not expand if it means a drop in quality. Even though the prices may seem high, we would not be surprised to see them escalate as Vinoce gains cult status under Emerson’s winemaking.

The wines are available mostly through the web site, www.vinoce.com.

Chile sauvignon blancs

Many people who love a crisp sauvignon blanc don’t often think of buying one from Chile. Instead, they reach for a grassy, tart sauvignon blanc from New Zealand or a more mellow version from the West Coast.

Still, Chile’s sauvignon blanc is getting more respect of late as it focuses on clones, soil and improved viticultural practices. Today, sauvignon blanc, the top white grape variety in Chile, accounts for 41 percent of its white grape varieties.

One of the newly discovered regions is Casablanca, which didn’t emerge until the 1990s. It is in this cooler, coastal area where the sauvignon blanc takes on an herbal, citrus expression.

We’ve been tasting several Chilean sauvignon blancs in recent weeks to bring more attention to this underrated wine-growing region.  Here are a couple of recommendations:

Morande Gran Reserva Casablanca Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($20). Herbal and honey aromas are followed by aggressive grapefruit and white peach flavors.

Leyda Reserve Sauvignon Blanc D.O. Valle de Leyda 2022 ($15). This is a delightful refreshing sauvignon blanc from Chile. Bold grapefruit and lemon flavors with a hint of grassiness. Excellent fruit. If you favor New Zealand sauvignon blanc, you should give this a try.      

Ladera wines

Ladera Russian River Valley Pillow Road Vineyard Chardonnay 2020 ($60). This vineyard is just 10 miles from the Pacific Ocean and benefits from a maritime climate. We loved the rich and juicy texture of the wine.  Those of you who like your chardonnays with some oak notes will enjoy the spice character in this wine.

Ladera Napa Valley Howell Mountain Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($179).  All of the vineyards in this sub-appellation have to be located above 1,400 feet, which makes it unique. Not surprisingly, its mountain vineyards produce some of the best and most complex cabernet sauvignon in California. Winemaker Jade Barrett manages to restrain the body and tannins of this monster to offer buyers a layered, fruit-forward and enjoyable wine. Dark fruit aromas are followed by black cherry flavors with a hint of mineral and soft tannins.

Ladera Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($89). Out of the bottle this wine is very complex and hedonistic with luscious plum and black cherry notes that stretch from the aromas to the flavors. Hints of coffee and spice. Ladera sources grapes for this wine from Howell Mountain, Pritchard Hill, Atlas Peak and Calistoga to give it a broad spectrum of flavors.

Wine picks

VML Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay 2020 ($55). Using grapes from a single vineyard in the Russian River Valley, this producer has a hit with this soft and balanced chardonnay. Apricot and apple notes with hints of vanilla and flint.

Canvasback Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($44).  This wine from Duckhorn’s Washington State portfolio is a blend of cabernet sauvignon (84 percent), merlot, malbec and petit verdot. Strawberry and red cherry notes with easy tannins and a hint of licorice.

Italy delivers a diversity of great wine

Feburary 13, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Every major wine producing in Europe harbors indigenous grapes that are the backbone of their wine making history. France and Italy are the major contributors in the Old World with Spain following as a close third.  

Most of the wine currently produced in the New World, including North and South America as well as the far-flung out-posts of New Zealand and Australia, are produced from grape varieties that originated in France or Italy. However, the Italians and French to a large extent have stuck to their traditional wine growing areas and indigenous grape varieties.  

Overall, they have dramatically improved wine making in their countries. Today, many winemakers are graduates of special university programs and have learned modern scientific winemaking techniques. Improvements in vineyard management have drastically improved the quality of wine grapes available to vintners.  

We recently sampled a variety of Italian red wines made from indigenous grapes in their traditional heritage growing region. The tasting highlighted the quality of Italian wines as well as the star quality of the varietals from each region.  

The three largest regions by volume of wine produced are Veneto. Tuscany and Piedmont.  

We tasted an amarone from the Veneto, a barolo from Piedmont and a chianti classico from Tuscany. These wines represent some of the best efforts from producers in each region and are iconic in their own right. They are vinified from indigenous grapes and grown on historical vineyard land and vinified using traditional techniques modified by modern science to capture the essence of each region.  

We also tasted two other red wines from less prominent Italian areas that we included in our tasting to showcase these lesser-known regions.  

The first of these was the Torrevento Infinitum Primitivo Puglia IGT 2020 ($15-20). Made from the tannic, intensely flavored primitivo grape, this wine is built for bold cuisine. Depending on the source, the primitivo grape is either the same or an intimate relative of the zinfandel grape. Primitivo has found a home in the Puglia region of Italy between the Apennine Mountains to the west and the Adriatic Sea to the east on the lower boot of Italy.  

This example exhibited grapey, intense black cherry notes with a spicy finish. Not overly complicated, this wine is a winner and an outstanding value.  

We also sampled Nestore Bosco Pan Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2017 ($20-25) crafted from the montepulciano grape and made in Abruzzo just a bit north of Puglia on the Adriatic Coast. This example was a significant departure from the fresh, fruity exuberance of the primitivo. Dried cherry notes with leather accents dominated this classic Italian wine.   

The most widely recognized red wine from Italy is certainly chianti or its upgraded brother chianti classico from Tuscany, both crafted from the indigenous sangiovese grape.  

Our example was the Castelli Del Grevepesa Clementine VII Chianti Classico 2018 ($20-25). Castelli Del Grevepesa is the largest wine cooperative producing chianti classico wines from more than 120 grape growers.  

This very drinkable wine exhibited notes of cherries, plums a hint of leather and vanilla. A very nice approachable example of the appellation that is fairly-priced.  

Bertani is justifiably lauded for their Amarone Della Valpolicella, the epitome of quality from Valpolicella. The Bertani Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2011 ($125-140) is crafted from the corvina and rondinella grapes that are dried on mats for 120 days to reduce moisture content and concentrate flavors. The resulting wine carries a substantial 15 percent alcohol content. Dried cherries and berry notes are present in a warm smooth silky robe that is a delight to drink.   

Pio Cesare is a superstar in Piedmont. Their barolos and barbarescos are sought after by consumers and collectors.  

We tasted the Pio Cesare Barolo 2017 ($70-85). Berry and black cherry fruit are accented by tar and rose notes that frame a delightful drink. This wine can be sampled now or enjoyed over the next 10 years. 

Here are some other Italian wines made from indigenous grape varieties: 

Querciabella Chianti Classico DOCG 2018 ($33). This sangiovese from a classic vintage brings respect to chianti.  Balanced, delicious with layers of spicy aromas and juicy red fruit flavors. 

Perla Terra Barolo 2018 ($40). Reasonably priced for wines from this neck of the woods, the Perla Terra’s light color is deceiving. After it is open for a while, it demonstrates some nice depth and length. Ready to drink, it has cherry flavors with hints of licorice, tobacco and leather. 

Garofoli Supera Verdicchio di Matelica DOC 2021 ($16). Verdicchio is one of the under-the-radar wines that we love to introduce to friends. From the Marche region, Supera is the family’s first verdicchio DOC wine from the Matelica Valley.  Orange zest and almond aromas are followed by bosc pear and herbal flavors. 

La Valentina Pecorino Colline  Pescaresi  IGT 2021 ($18). Pecorino is more than cheese. It’s a grape that does well in high rocky slopes of Abruzzo. This one has round and generous pear notes. It ages on the less for 2 months and spends more time in stainless steel and bottle. 

Alois Lageder “Versalto” Pinot Bianco Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT 2020 ($18).  We loved this wine from Alto Adige where pinot bianco has been grown since the mid-19th century.  Expressive mineral and lemon aromas with lingering peach and apple flavors. Low in alcohol (11.5 percent) it can be poured to a crowd.  

Inama Carbonare Soave Classico DOC 2020 ($30). Soave can be very boring and one-dimensional, but this one from Inama is an exception. From Veneto region, old-vine garganega is native to the area. Big citrus and stone fruit notes with balanced acidity, a mineral thread and a bright finish. 

Passione Sentimento Bianco Veneto IGT 2019 ($16). Citrus, apricot notes with a round finish.  It is made from garganega grapes. 

Wine picks 

Decoy Chardonnay 2021 ($20). Clean, medium bodied with little oak interference, this simple chardonnay is a great value. Apple and peach notes with a brush of vanilla and creamy mouthfeel. 

Montes Limited Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($16). From Chile’s Leyda Valley, this beautifully textured sauvignon blanc exudes citrus and floral aromas.  Brisk acidity and grapefruit, citrus flavors with a touch of minerality. 

Wines for that special Valentine’s Day dinner

February 6, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

There are probably a handful of men amongst us who dread February 14. The anxiety of shelling out big bucks for a dozen roses and then a dinner can be overwhelming, especially when you consider that Valentine’s Day is but a commercial conspiracy. 

It has nothing to do with love, if history is correct. In fact, several St. Valentines died on Feb. 14, two of whom were decapitated in 260 to 270 A.D. because they were Christian. We bet they didn’t feel the love. 

In spite of this sordid history, Valentine’s Day today is a time to express the love that we should be expressing every day. It is a time to put our busy schedules on pause, turn to our loved ones and actually say “I love you.”  This cannot be done on the way out the door or in a text message but rather around a candle-lit dinner. 

If you cannot make dinner, you can make a reservation. For us, we prefer a meal cooked with love at home in low light with soft music playing in the background. Traditionally, we have done this for our spouses with lobster or steak – and sometimes both. We also have shared the occasion with other couples when the men do the cooking, no matter their skill level, while the women bask in the attention.   

With the menu carefully chosen, the focus should be on the wine.  Sparkling wine -- or champagne if you can afford it -- is a good start to the evening. Pink sparkling complements the color of the occasion.  There are pink proseccos to hold down the cost. La Marca and Mionetto make good rosé prosecco. 

From California we like Schramsberg, Domaine Carneros, Mumm and Roederer Estate. Prices for French champagne are not that much more. If you can afford it, consider Bollinger, Billecart-Salmon, Ruinart, Veuve-Cliquot and Taittinger. 

Many of these wines come in half-bottles which make for a nice aperitif before you launch into dinner. 

If beef is the entrée, you will want to consider cabernet sauvignon.  Value versions come from Chile and you could substitute an Argentine malbec without spending a lot of money.  If you have something like pasta, duck or even salmon, a nice pinot noir would work if you can afford its lofty price tag. MacRostie makes an inexpensive pinot noir. 

If fish is the centerpiece, consider a nice chardonnay from Burgundy.  A Macon-Villages can be found for less than $25.  West Coast chardonnay can be expensive, but there are inexpensive versions from producers such as Fetzer, Rodney Strong, Landmark, La Crema, Kendall-Jackson and Chateau Ste. Michelle. 

If you can open the wallet, consider a Meursault or a Puligny-Montrachet from Burgundy. 

Here are some special wines to consider: 

Whispering Angel Rosé 2021 ($25).  Rosé is a nice substitute for sparkling rosé and it’s a versatile go-to wine for pasta, fowl, fish and appetizers. Whispering Angel is one of the most popular and ubiquitous rosés on the market. From Provence, it’s a blend of grenache, cinsault and rolle. Raspberry and strawberry flavors with floral aromas. 

Lanson Le Rosé ($70).  Put a little color in your bubbles with this refreshing blend of pinot noir (53 percent), chardonnay and pinot meunier. Floral and bright red berry notes.  It makes for a delightful transition from appetizers to entrée. 

Priest Ranch Brut Rosé 2018 ($60). From estate-grown syrah, this unique bottle is complex with red berry flavors. 

Beaulieu Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($38).  We like this generous cabernet for the value. It’s special but it doesn’t set you back a lot.  Ripe black raspberry and cherry flavors with a hint of mint and mocha.  

Chilean sauvignon blancs 

Many people who love a crisp sauvignon blanc don’t often think of buying one from Chile. Instead, they reach for a grassy, tart sauvignon blanc from New Zealand or a more mellow version from the West Coast. Sancerre, perhaps the oldest and most respected producers of sauvignon blanc, is often ignored in this country. 

Still, Chile’s sauvignon blanc is getting more respect of late as it focuses on clones, soil and improved viticultural practices. Today, sauvignon blanc, the top white grape variety in Chile, accounts for 41 percent of its white grape varieties.  

One of the newly discovered regions is Casablanca, which didn’t emerge until the 1990s. It is in this cooler, coastal area where the sauvignon blanc takes on an herbal, citrus expression.  

We’ve been tasting several Chilean sauvignon blancs in recent weeks to bring more attention to this underrated wine-growing region.  Here are some recommendations: 

Morande Gran Reserva Casablanca Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($20). Herbal and honey aromas are followed by aggressive grapefruit and white peach flavors.  

L Cantera Sauvignon Blanc 2020. From the Casablanca Valley, this delicious wine has fresh grapefruit flavors with a dash of herbs. 

Leyda Reserve Sauvignon Blanc D.O. Valle de Leyda 2022 ($15). Bold grapefruit and lemon flavors with a hint of grassiness. Excellent fruit. If you favor New Zealand sauvignon blanc, you should give this a try.   

Wine picks 

Vara Garnacha Gold Label Vino Tinto Espanol 2020 ($34).  Vara was founded in 2012 in New Mexico but it wasn’t until recently its wines were nationally distributed. Its unique concept is to draw grapes across borders and blend them with grapes grown in the United States – a blend of culture and product. Artist Xavier Zamarripa and wine veteran Doug Diefenthaler recruited several established winemakers to craft special wines, including this delicious garnacha.  Blended with carinena, monastrell, mencia, and a little cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah – all from various locations in Spain and California -- it is round with ripe cherry, red currant and raspberry notes with a floral nose and soft mouthfeel. 

VML Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay 2020 ($55). Using grapes from a single vineyard in the Russian River Valley, this producer has a hit with this soft and balanced chardonnay. Apricot and apple notes with hints of vanilla and flint. 

Wines from Lirac and Georgia

January 31, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Lirac is not as well-known as its neighbors Chateauneuf du Pape or even Vacqueras or Gigondas.  Yet these wines from the Southern Rhone Valley are on par in quality and represent great values. 

About 85 percent of the wines from Lirac are red with grenache, syrah and mourvedre most popular.  The whites are made from clairette, grenache blanc and bourboulenc. 

Lirac wines, first exported in 1737, from Lirac were the first to sport a Cotes Du Rhone brand on their barrels to assure quality to consumers. Unfortunately, legend decrees that the devastating phylloxera pest that destroyed all of European grape growing and winemaking originated from vines imported into Lirac in the 1860s.  

While tasting the red wines from Lirac we detected a similarity with those from Chateauneuf du Pape. A bold, baked-berry fruit quality was apparent but mingled with fresh fruit notes to create a unique style. Checking a wine map of the region gave us clarity. Chateauneuf du Pape is adjacent to Lirac to the west and grows the same mix of grapes. Both Lirac and Chateauneuf du Pape’s vineyards are covered with smooth river rocks, making grape growing one of the few suitable agricultural uses for the land.  

The Chateau Mont-Redon White Lirac 2020 ($25-30) is quite impressive. Pear notes dominated the wine with a distinctive mineral streak in both the nose and mouth. A lovely honey finish completed the package.  

We also liked the Chateau De Montfaucon Rosé Lirac 2021 ($15-18) which expressed an appealing strawberry cream note that demanded another sip. It is a perfect wine to enjoy all by itself.  

The Ogier Lou Camine Lirac Rouge 2018 ($19) exhibited a deep, rich expression of baked berry fruits and a hint of herbs. Very impressive.

The Domaine La Loyane Cuvee Marie Lirac Rouge 2019 ($34) was another very impressive example of red wines from Lirac. Deep and rich with notes of berries, licorice, and cacao. Roger Sabon Lirac Rouge 2020 ($25) was an outstanding example of what Lirac is capable of producing. Ripe plum, cherries and a hint of licorice create a wonderfully drinkable red wine. 

Domaine La Font De Notre Dame Lirac Rouge 2020 ($25). Plum, cherry and berry notes are evident in a very clean straightforward style.  

Georgian wines 

Mention Georgian wine to most American wine consumers and you will either get a blank look or the assumption you are referring to the State of Georgia’s 40-plus wineries.  

Many of these wineries produce muscadine grape wine and fruit wines although more are migrating to producing dry wines from vinifera grapes. Winemaking accompanied European settlers several hundred years ago.  

The country of Georgia is located on the European/Asian border, and was recently part of the Soviet Union but now independent. Georgia is about the size of South Carolina and only has a population of about 3.7 million people. It is an ancient grape growing area that claims to host archeological evidence of indigenous winemaking dating back to 6000 B.C.  

Up until now Georgia’s most notable claim to fame was as the birthplace of Joseph Stalin, brutal dictator of the USSR from the 1920s until his death in 1953, something you don’t see publicized in Georgian tourist travel publications. As part of the Soviet Union, Georgian wines were valued above wine produced in other parts of the country. However, collectivization and 1980s anti-alcohol campaigns under the Soviets harmed overall quality. Independence from the USSR in the nineties has allowed a market driven quality-oriented wine industry to thrive and today we are seeing he results.  

We recently tasted a selection of Georgian wines and came away impressed. Their strengths were in three areas: sparkling wines, orange wines and the superstar of Georgian red grapes, saperavi. The prices for the most part are modest and offer a good quality to price ratio.  

Wines are most often made in clay quevri that are frequently buried in the ground. The quevri somewhat resemble ancient Greek amphora.  

Following are our impressions of the wines we tasted:  Nekrisi Winery Mtsvane Estate Pet-Nat Saperavi Rosé Georgia 2021 ($29). Pet-Nat refers to the winemaking method whereby the wine is bottled before fermentation has finished, thus creating bubbles. This is a terrific sparkler featuring a beautiful pinkish color appealing bright cherry fruit notes in a dry style.

Glekhuri Kisi Quevri Amber Wine Kakheti Teliani Valley Georgia 2019 ($20). Amber wines are made by allowing crushed white grapes to stay in contact with their skins, seeds and stems during fermentation and aging. Made from the kisi grape, one of over 500 Georgian grapes grown in Georgia, this wine can be an acquired taste. Deep golden color, palate cleansing tannins a slight resiny flavor and medium fruit.

Vardiashuili Rkatsiteli Amber Wine Georgia 2020 ($20). Made in clay quevri, this amber wine got our attention. Very floral with soft tannins and ample fruit. Pleasant and quaffable. Gozauri Saperavi Aged in French Oak Barrels 2015 ($21-25). Deep plummy berry fruit, very grapey. Our least favorite of the saperavi wines.

Brothers Khutsishvili Mariani Saperavi Unfiltered Quevri Kakheti 2016 ($20). Our favorite of the tasting, this was an amazingly good wine that reminded us of a well-made cabernet sauvignon. Beautiful black cherry and plum fruit notes and a hint of cedar. Zenishi Saperavi Quevri Kakheti 2018 ($20). A very nice showcase for the saperavi grape and our second favorite of the tasting. 

Wine picks 

Aia Vecchia “Lagone” IGT 2019 ($17). We enjoyed this soft and alluring super-Tuscan, the flagship of this producer. It is a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc – hardly indigenous grapes but reflecting the potential of these grapes in Italian soil. Cherry and dried rosemary aromas with flavors of plum, black cherries and a hint of vanilla. 

Domaine Wachau Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Terrassen 2021 ($18).  We’ve seen this wine for as little as $14, which makes it a steal.  Made entirely of gruner veltliner grapes, this Austrian wine has big and bold citrus and green apple notes cloaked in fresh acidity. It’s a great apertif or a wine to serve with chicken and fish. 

Sandhi Sanford & Benedict Pinot Noir 2019 ($45). Delicious is the best way to describe this Sta. Rita Hills pinot noir. Soft, round with juicy black cherry flavors. 

Pinot envy: the ones that rise above

January 23, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Pinot noir is special for many reasons, but especially its clonal variety, its ability to stand on its own and its knack for reflecting the soil and weather more than any other grape variety. Cabernet sauvignon, for instance, can cover up imperfections by blending other grape varieties; rarely do you see pinot noir joined by other grapes.  Yet pinot noir has its failings, particularly during rainy seasons when its thin skins open the way to disease. 

Over the years we have developed an affection for pinot noir, particularly that from Burgundy.  Pinot noir grown in the right climate is exquisite and more versatile with food than, say, cabernet sauvignon. But in its best form, pinot noir challenges the pocketbook for all but the rich. Prices continue to rise in California and Oregon – the great burgundies are out of range for most people, but surprisingly there are wines from this region that are better deals than most West Coast pinot noirs.  

If you have the money and the desire, here are several special pinot noirs we recommend: 

Cattleya Cuvee Number One Pinot Noir ($65).  This wine represents the first appellation blend under Catteya Wines made by talented winemaker Bibiana Gonzalez Rave.  Named as “Winemaker of the Year” by the San Francisco Chronicle, she continues to craft stunning pinot noirs. This one from the Russian River Valley is effusive in dark berry and spice aromas, rich and enduring cherry flavors and balanced acidity. Great texture and length. 

Emeritus Vineyards Pinot Hill Elite Pinot Noir 2018 ($110). Maybe this wine is called elite because the selection comes from the Grand Cru La Romanee Vineyard in Burgundy. With a vineyard facing west, there is more sugar than that of the Emeritus Pinot Hill Cruz pinot noir, but acidity remains in balance because of a cool climate. The flavor profile embraces that of La Romanee with cassis and ripe black cherry and tobacco leaf notes and abundant floral aromas.  This is a very special bottle of wine as is the Pinot Hill Cruz with a different profile. 

Kosta Brown Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2020 ($115). This producer is one of the most respected in the pinot noir kingdom. It has several versions from Sta. Rita Hills, Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley and this one from Anderson Valley.  Each of them reflects the unique terroir and climate of their appellations and will impress the pinot noir collector in your circle. This one, only in its third vintage, is a brassy, tannic wine with layered red and black fruit and a dash of spice. 

Flowers Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2021 ($60). Violet, clove and other spices dominate the generous bouquet. Juicy black cherry fruit and more spice on the palate.  Delicious. 

Paul Hobbs Sonoma Coast Goldrock Estate Pinot Noir 2019 ($65-75).  When we visited Annapolis, CA, several decades ago there were only a handful of wineries.  Frankly, we didn’t find many good wines. Today, however, the likes of Paul Hobbs have found gold in a region that is only five miles from the ocean. The 550-foot elevation and the maritime climate optimizes conditions for dense, complex pinot noir. We found this version delightfully unusual in its profile. Spicy and floral aromas with wild cherry and raspberry flavors. Long in the finish, it’s one of the best pinot noirs we’ve tasted in a long time. 

Lynmar Estate Quail Hill Pinot Noir 2018 ($71).   Grown from the producer’s home ranch, the grapes for this stellar pinot noir combine to offer ripe blackberry and cocoa powder aromas and bright blueberry flavors. 

Sosie Pinot Noir Spring Hill Vineyard Sonoma Coast 2019 ($49). This beauty is for lovers of big bold California pinot noir. Very expressive berry and black cherry notes with a distinctive spice and vanilla element.  

Lambrusco 

The sweet bubbly lambruscos of the 1980s have tainted this class wine, much like white zinfandel almost put dry roses out of business. Riunite and its cohort were all the rage in the late 20th century as Americans started to experiment with table wines. Like the white zins of the time, they were fruity, sweet and cheap, most selling for under $10 per bottle.  

Times have thankfully changed. A recent tasting of two dry lambruscos from Italy opened a new chapter of learning for us.  

These wines hail from either the Emilia Romagna or Lombardy regions of Italy that lie just to the north of Tuscany. Lambruscos range from dry to sweet and they utilize the bulk charmant process to provide carbonation. Unlike other dry red wines from Italy, lambrusco should be served chilled.  

Lambruscos are crafted from the lambrusco grape of which 60 varieties exist. It can be blended with small amounts of other grapes. The dry lambruscos are packaged in sparkling wine bottles and can be vintage dated.  

The two lambruscos we tasted presented a very youthful front with dry grapey flavors and notes of strawberry, cherry and plum. They are very refreshing to drink and can play a part in any traditional red wine pairings, especially as an accompaniment to charcuterie.  

The Linni 910 Labrusca Rosso Non-Vintage ($16-18) exhibited bright berry notes with a dense purple color and refreshing effervescence. It is made in the Emilia-Romagna region from 85 percent lambrusco grapes.  

Medici Ermete Concerto Reggiano Lambrusco 2020 ($27) was our favorite of the two. It is sourced from a single, organically farmed vineyard. Very clean and bright with strawberry and cherry notes.  
Wine picks 

Casanova di Neri Il Rosso 2020 ($24).  This mostly sangiovese wine from Tuscany is ready to drink.  Red fruit and spice notes. 

Tenuta di Capezzana Villa di Capezzana di Carmignano DOCG 2018 ($32). Now in its fifth generation, the Contini Bonacossi family is making consistently good wine in Carmignano. Twenty percent cabernet sauvignon is added to the sangiovese to give this wine some lift and depth. Dark fruit character with hints of herbs and mineral. 

Garofoil “Farnio” Rosso Picano DOC 2021 ($13).  A blend of montepulciano d’abruzzo and sangiovese, this wine is simple and refreshing to serve as an aperitif or with light fare. Bright red fruit flavors. 

Outlying regions of Bordeaux make great values

January 16, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Bordeaux is steeped in history. For centuries wine has been made here by families who have passed down knowledge and inspiration. Today it is not uncommon to hear of third or fourth generations producing wine from the same vineyards as their ancestors. 

While Medoc often gets the attention, there are other regions equally deserving of recognition. These include Graves, Pessac-Leognan, Sauternes and Barsac -- regions located south of the city of Bordeaux and along the Garonne River. There are 16 Grand Crus Classes in Graves and 27 in Sauternes-Barsac. It is not without its stars -- Chateau Haut-Brion is the only first growth in the Pessac-Leognan classification. 

The Perromat family of Chateau de Cerons has been growing wine in Graves and Sauternes regions for nine generations. Marie-Helene Yung-Theron of Chateau de Portets is living in the house where she was born and she has fond memories of her grandfather in the vineyard.  Three generations of the Perrin family are working together at Chateau Carbonnieux. The family stories here are endless, as we discovered after tasting a series of wines from these regions. 

Each of these regions have a specialty. In Graves, the white wines are often blends of sauvignon blanc and semillon. We love a heavy dose of semillon because it rounds out the varietal sharpness of sauvignon blanc – the Chateau Ducasse ($15) has been a favorite of ours for years. Cabernet sauvignon is the largest variety of the red wines, which tend to be more mellow in tannin and acidity that the wines of the Medoc. Merlot plays a co-star role. 

Graves is over-shadowed by the iconic wines of the Medoc but they represent better values. 

Pessac-Leognan is actually a communal appellation of Graves and as such producers can label their wines as either.  Eighty percent of the wines form its 10 villages are red. 

Sauternes is probably the most unique region of the lot. Its sweet dessert wines are made from muscadelle, sauvignon and semillon grapes grown in ideal climates for botrytis – or “noble rot.” Autumn mists envelope the grapes and concentrate the nectar. Chateau Yquem is one of the most expensive and treasured sauternes.  

Here is a sampling of some interesting wines from these regions: 

Chateau de Cruzeau Pessac-Leognan White 2019 ($25). This stellar sauvignon blanc classic is a good representative of the Bordeaux style. Whole-grape pressing, lees stirring and oak-barrel fermentation and aging combine to make an expressive and surprisingly complex wine with citrus and peach notes.  Anton Lurton, his son and granddaughter work together to make this a reliable estate. 

Chateau Clos Haut-Peyraguey “Symphonie” Sauterne 2015 ($50). The semillon grapes for this delicious nectar come from vines in the First Grand Cru Classe.  Bernard Magrez has been making great sauternes for 40 years and this one does not let us down. Deliciously sweet with apricot and peach notes with generous flavors of orange and almonds. Five percent of the blend is sauvignon blanc. This is a great dessert wine and a special gift for the holidays. 

Chateau de Cerons Graves 2020 ($28). We love what the 55 percent semillon brings to this well-rounded, balanced wine. The balance of the blend is made of sauvignon blanc and 5 percent sauvignon gris to give it a broad profile with prevailing pink grapefruit notes, hints of citrus and honey flavors and a touch of mineral. 

Chateau de Respide Classic Red Graves 2018 ($40). The blend for this medium-body Bordeaux is 60 percent merlot with the balance made from cabernet sauvignon grapes. Fresh red berry fruit with a hint of mocha. 

Chateau Carbonnieux Pessac-Leognan 2019 ($39). This blend of sauvignon blanc (70 percent) and semillon has crisp acidity, intense floral aromas, pear and apple flavors and hints of lime zest and mineral. This is a tasty wine to drink now but it will mellow with a few years of aging.  

Domaine de Larrivet Haut-Brion Pessac-Leognan 2018 ($35).  Given the prestige of the name, it is not surprising that this blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc has quality written all over it. Flowery, violet aromas with generous, layered fruit of black cherries, black currants and blueberries. This is a great value for anyone who wants to start a cellar with modestly priced wines.  

Josh Cellars 

Josh Cellars wines from California are ubiquitous. Stroll through any retail space where wines are sold, and odds are a Josh wine product will be there to greet you.  

Josh was founded by Joseph Carr in 2005 and followed the launch of the higher priced Joseph Carr wines several years earlier. Since then, Josh wines have experienced explosive growth rising to number three in sales volume for all table wine brands in the U.S. -- eclipsed only by bulk wine brands Barefoot and Sutter Home.  

While the regular Josh Cellars wines sport a California appellation, all three of their reserve wines feature more specific California growing regions. The first Josh reserve wine we tasted was the Josh Cellars Reserve Chardonnay North Coast 2021 ($19). We were impressed with the European approach to this grape.  

The chardonnay didn’t present any obvious oak notes except for a touch of vanilla. The wine provided an elegant expression of pear and citrus with a hint of creaminess in a very appealing package.  

Our favorite of the tasting was the Josh Cellars Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2020 ($22). Bright black cherry and cassis notes with a hint of mocha. Nice soft tannins provide palate cleansing in this very well priced wine. 

Wine picks 

Esporao Bico Amarelo Vinho Verde Portugal 2021 ($12). This is a fresh blend of loureiro from Quinta do Ameal and supplemented by alvarinho and avesso from a producer in Ponte de Lima. Bright acidity and vibrant pear and peach notes. 

Chalk Hill Estate Bottled Chardonnay 2020 ($45). Juicy pear and apple notes cloaked in a velvety texture. Hint of cloves and minerality. 

La Follette Los Primeros Chardonnay 021 ($25).  This Sonoma County producer has a chardonnay and pinot noir that honor the early winegrowing pioneers who planted vines along the coast.  We like the wines for their clean, sometimes austere quality that makes them great matches to food. The chardonnay has tropical fruit aromas and rich pear and melon flavors. The pinot noir (also $25) has generous earthy and cherry aromas with bright red cherry flavors. 

La Follette Zenith Farms Chardonnay 2020 ($60). Ample pear and apple aromas with a hint of guava. Soft on the palate with pear and stone fruit flavors.  This is just a terrific wine that begs for a second glass. 

The Hilt: a gem in Sta. Rita Hills

January 9, 2023

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Farmers once thought that the best fruit is grown in fertile, arable and irrigated soil. But over the years – by accident or intent – farmers found that the best wine is made from grapes grown in hardscrabble soil on steep mountain slopes where there is little water. The conditions in these vineyards are contrarian to most agricultural practices, but there is no dispute that the best cabernet sauvignon, for instance, come from places like Pritchard Hill, Howell Mountain and other steep slopes. 

We also think about Sta. Rita Hills, a Santa Barbara County AVA founded in 2001 that owes its interesting terrain and terroir to the Miocene Epoch. Twenty million years ago, tectonic plate movements created mountains in a north-south direction. Eventually, the mountains broke away and actually turned so now the valleys run in an east-west orientation.  Maritime winds and fog coming from the Pacific Ocean make for a perfect environment for slow-growing grapes that can retain their acidity. The soil is marine-based with lots of calcium, alluvium and sand.  

We have become quite fond of the wines from this emerging region as we continue to discover stellar pinot noirs, by far the most popular grape in this region. Chardonnay is the second most widely grown grape variety. 

The Hilt is located in the southwest corner of the AVA where it has 3,600 acres. Matt Dees, winemaker since 2004, is a self-described soil geek who grew up in Vermont and learned his stripes making wine at Staglin and New Zealand’s Craggy Range. At age 25, he was the youngest winemaker at JONATA, which in 2008 expanded into chardonnay and pinot noir with The Hilt label. It purchased The Hilt estate in 2014.  

“It would make a good rattlesnake farm,” he said in describing the soil.  

Sta. Rita Hills became a sub-appellation of the Santa Ynez Valley appellation in 2001 in an effort to distinguish its cooler climate from that of the hot Santa Ynez. This western end of the valley is becoming known for its electric chardonnays and concentrated pinot noirs. Even its syrah – leveraged by the legendary Sine Qua Non – is getting acclaim. 

Dees said The Hilt initially purchased grapes and made wines based on a style fashioned by the winemaker. Today, however, the wines are estate-grown and the profile is driven by the soil with dramatically less influence from the winemaking team. 

The Hilt makes distinctly different wines from distinctly different vineyards: Bentrock, Radian and Puerta del Mar. Photos of the region reveal ridges at different altitudes with varying soil composition. The Radian Vineyard is the most extreme with some slopes as steep as 45 degrees. Up 700 feet, it gets a lot of cold wind. Bentrock, on the other hand, is more undulating and hospitable with clay loam and sandy loam soils. 

Although 75 percent of The Hilt’s production is pinot noir, it is chardonnay that excites Dees. 

“If I had one wine to make the rest of my life, it would be chardonnay,” he said.  

The 2020 Hilt Estate Chardonnay ($50) is spectacular with apricot and fresh apple notes, big acidity and hints of ginger and brine. 

A blend of grapes from the Bentrock and Radian vineyards, it is a wine that emerged from one of the most challenging vintages for all of California. 

“It was an awful year in every way,” Dees said.  

There was a covid epidemic that pickers and the wine-making team had to overcome. There were fires well to the north too. It was a year easy to forget – until these bottles were opened. 

The 2020 The Hilt Estate Pinot Noir ($50), said Dees, is a “conversation between two vineyards.” The tiny, thick-skin grapes of the Radian Vineyard contribute plum, black olives and pepper flavors. The Bentrock Vineyard offers red fruit and a warmer, supple character.  

Dees said he has tasted nearly every pinot noir grown in the AVA and concluded the good ones have “a lot of nooks and crannies.” 

We found the wine to be generously aromatic and supple but not over-extracted. There is freshy tilled earth notes, a dash of mushrooms and a meaty character that give it special appeal. 

Dees characterized the learning process in this diverse AVA as a “voyage of discovery.” 

“It’s a waltz, not a tango,” he said about the learning curve. “You step on a lot of feet but in the end, you get the job done.” 

The Hilt makes several single-vineyard pinot noirs and chardonnays that are tightly allocated and much more expensive. Dees also makes wines for JONATA. 

Wine picks 

Concha Y Toro Marques De Casa Concha Pinot Noir D.O. Valle Del Limari 2019 ($22). If you’re tired of paying $40 or more for high quality pinot noir, then search no more. This beautiful example of pinot noir will save you a ton of dough. Beautiful pure fruit flavors of black cherry and raspberry are accented by a bit of a spicy note from the oak aging.  

Domaine Gassier Nostre Pais Costiere De Nimes 2019 ($20-25). This artful blend of southern Rhone varietals is created from a mélange of grenache blanc, clairette and rousanne. It sports ripe peach and pear notes in a long-lasting mouth filling package.  

Tenute Falezza Valpolicella Superiore 2018 ($16). Back in the day valpolicella and its cousin bardolino were de rigueur for any red-checkered tablecloth. Today valpolicella is still churning out high quality smooth red wines to match a wide variety of cuisines. Made from indigenous grapes from the region in the Veneto, this well-priced delicious table wine displays ripe and dry black cherry notes in a rich very easy to drink package. 

Cuvaison Hedon Napa Valley Chardonnay 2020 ($50). Cuvaison takes chardonnay to a new level with this small-lot version that benefits from extended lees stirring and full malolatic fermentation. The result is opulent, supple texture, ripe peach and apricot notes with nuances of toasted oak and spice. 

J. Lohr October Night Chardonnay ($25). We loved this wine from the Arroyo Secco region of Monterey County.  Exotic citrus aromas with generous stone fruit flavors and a smooth, mouthfilling texture. Good complexity for the price. 

Some gems from Paso Robles to try

January 3, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 
We are unabashed fans of the wines from the Paso Robles region in California. Paso Robles is located at about the mid-point between San Francisco and Los Angeles and hugs the cool Pacific coast. The area is hot and arid during the growing season, providing an ideal climate. Cool nights coupled with the warm daytime temperatures create an environment where grapes ripen but retain acidity.  

Although more than 60 grape varieties are planted in this big region, cabernet sauvignon has risen to being its most popular after years of being known more for its Rhone grape varieties. 

Alas, there are still a lot of mediocre wines coming from Paso Robles, but over the last few years we have been seeing significant progress in quality. Daou, for instance, is getting a lot of attention. So is Austin Hope and Justin Winery. One producer we recently discovered is McPrice Myers. 

McPrice Myers hit a high mark when just recently its Beautiful Earth Red, an eclectic blend of red grape varieties, earned a berth in Wine Spectator’s Top 100 wines in the world – it was ranked 16.  

The 2020 blend includes syrah, grenache, mourvedre, cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, petite sirah and zinfandel – whew! Ripe and jammy plums, blueberries, cassis, red currants and a lush mouthfeel.  

We also loved the McPrice Myers Beautiful Earth Paso Robles White ($35).  This was the surprise of the month. A blend of grenache blanc and clairette blacha grapes, it has copious pear and graphite aromas followed by bright citrus and melon flavors.  Those of you who want something different than chardonnay and sauvignon blanc will be delighted by this unique wine. 

We also enjoy the wines from Justin Winery.   

Often referred to as a GSM blend, the 2019 Justin Trilateral ($55) is composed of 48 percent syrah, 33 percent grenache, and 19 percent mourvedre. It is a distinctively California take on its French Rhone cousins. Abundant ripe berry and cherry elements dominate this blockbuster that sports 16.1 percent alcohol. Twelve months aging in oak -- 17 percent is new French oak --creates a soft oak frame to complement the ripe fruit. Drink now or age for at least 5 years.  

The 2019 Justin Justification ($78) blend harkens to the wines of Bordeaux’s St. Emilion region. Composed of 65 percent cabernet franc and 35 percent merlot, this wine displays a distinctive California style with an exuberant burst of fruit accented with some herbal notes and a hint of mocha in a deep smooth rich package. Barrel aged in French oak for 20 months, this beauty features a more moderate 15 percent alcohol.  

Here are more fabulous wines from Paso Robles: 

McPrice Myers High on the Hog Paso Robles Red 2020 ($25). A good value, this is a wild blend of grenache, petite sirah, syrah, zinfandel, mourvedre, malbec and lagrein. Big in alcohol, it sports a lot of red and black fruit flavors with a hint of spice and a floral nose. 

McPrice Myers Fait Accompli Paso Robles 2020 ($55). This blend of syrah (46 percent), cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot is rich and silky jammy blackberry fruit flavors, good length and generous mouthfeel.  Black currant and herbal aromas. 

McPrice Myers Sel De La Terre Paso Robles Grenache 2020 ($55). This is one of the best examples of Paso Robles grenache grape that we have tasted. Very balanced with abundant black cherry and strawberry fruit and a hint of mocha. Soft tannins.  

Thacher Constant Variable Red 2019 ($48). Magic happens when Rhone grape varieties come together and that is certainly the case with this blend of grenache, syrah, mourvedre, cinsaut, counoise and viognier. We loved its big bouquet and fresh fruit character. The producer uses oak judiciously to retain the qualities of each grape variety.   

Cordant Wills Hills Grenache 2020 ($62). We loved this opulent grenache from a vineyard on the westside of Paso Robles. Fresh raspberry and strawberry flavors belie the complexity that make this more than a simple red wine. Floral aromas with hint of cherry and pepper. 

PORT 

Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos Vintage Port 2010 ($65). Vintage port is very special because it is made in only great years and it is priced accordingly. Because this is from a single quinta vintage, it doesn’t need aging as much as a 20-year vintage port.  

Cockburn’s Special Reserve Port ($20). If your dinner guests are looking for something easy to round off the evening – or if you’re looking for a night cap after they finally leave – consider a glass of port. At this price, it won’t set you back but you’ll still enjoy the aristocracy a port brings. 

Dow’s 10-Year-Old Tawny Port ($39). There’s nothing like sipping a glass of port on a cold winter day. The price of this tawny port from Symington Family Estates won’t set you back, yet it delivers a lot of finesse. Cherry and plum notes with the classic almond and toffee aromas.  Nice pepper notes on the palate. For an even bigger experience, spring for the 20-Year-Old Tawny Port ($67) -- a nice gift for dad. 

Wine picks 

J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($60). Petit verdot is added to the cabernet sauvignon to soften the tannins and add another dimensional to this terrific wine. Raspberry and black cherry notes with hints of mineral and chocolate. 

Vara Albarino 2021 ($30). Bob Lindquist and Louisa Sawyer Lindquist of Albuquerque, NM, are working with estates in Spain and California to produce some very interesting wines. We liked this albarino from Edna Valley vineyards. Mouth-filling melon and peach flavors. 

Pangea Apalta Vineyard Chile Syrah 2004 ($50-60). We were stunned by this ultra-premium syrah from Chile. Stunned. Full bodied, complex with dense blackberry and blueberry flavors. 

La Nerthe Les Cassagnes Cote Du Rhone White ($24). A lovely blend of four of the classic white Cotes du Rhone grapes: grenache blanc, viognier, roussanne, and marsanne. Enticing notes of honey, citrus, pear and a floral element complete a rich, smooth elegant package. Jordan Chardonnay Sonoma County Russian River Valley 2020 ($40). Jordan has crafted a very Burgundian style of chardonnay. Although aged in new French oak, only a minimal oak expression competes with the pear and apple fruit notes. Rombauer Chardonnay Carneros 2021 ($42). A perennial winner with an amazing balance of elegant oak and abundant tropical fruits of pineapple, mango and orange.  

Looking back with bias and surprise in 2022

December 18, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

We often get questions from readers and friends about wine, but none so prolific as, “What is your favorite wine?”   

Despite opening a door to wax rhapsody on an expensive Bordeaux or a great Burgundy, the answer is not easy for us. Sure, we like our French wines but their cost is an obstacle not easy to overcome. Our cellars are dominated by Bordeaux – gems we bought decades ago for less than $15 with the intent of enjoying them in our retirements. They demand a special occasion to open. 

We do not have one favorite wine but rather many favorites that are summoned to satisfy a particular occasion. Champagne is a favorite around the holidays and even on Sunday, rosé is our go-to wine during the summer, cabernet sauvignon from California or France makes a perfect pairing with a grilled steak. Pasta? Chianti. Ribs? Zinfandel. Fish? Chardonnay.  

Hugh Johnson, a prolific and greatly respected wine writer, has an insightful book that speaks to his joy of discovering wine. We cannot come close to his eloquent prose, but we understand his point that wine is a journey to be savored. You should read “The Life and Wines of Hugh Johnson,” if not just for inspiration. 

You are doomed to boredom if you rely on preconceived and often flawed notions about wine. You have test yourself with new wines from new regions and new grape varieties if you want to learn.  

We have a friend who drank nothing but expensive, tannic California cabernet sauvignons, declaring unabashedly that she wanted a wine with grit and weight. Then we poured her some complex pinot noirs from the West Coast and dismantled her bias against anything but cabernet. 

As we head into a new year, we reflect on this journey and hope you will do the same. There are a lot of wines waiting to be discovered by those with a sense of adventure and an open mind. 

Looking back, our 2022 journey was filled with surprise. 

We shared the bias of many wine enthusiasts who looked down on merlot – until we enjoyed the sumptuous merlots from Duckhorn and La Jota. 

We thought rosé was simple – until we stood aside Jean-Francois Ott and shared his Chateau de Selle from Provence. 

We ignored the red wines of Provence  – then discovered Gerard Bertrand’s Clos d’Ora. With our eyes opened, we did a massive wine tasting of this region’s red wines and that led to the discovery of Bandol’s Domaine Tempier and Chateau de la Negly. 

We thought the best pinot noir came from a combination of clones – then we tasted three single-clone pinot noirs from Bouchaine and learned first-hand what each clone delivers to a blend. 

We thought Portugal was known only for its port – until we visited Lisbon and discovered some incredible values from the Dao and Douro Valley.   

We thought France had a lock on quality sparkling wine – until we sampled several from England that were ever bit as good. 

We thought good wine came with a price – until we tasted Evodia garnacha from Spain and Esporao white wines from the Alentejo region of Portugal,  

We thought chardonnay was too buttery and oaky to pair with food – until we discovered the chardonnays of Kosta-Browne, Calera, Cattleya, and Flowers. 

We traveled to Europe to taste wine, but also traveled from our homes where we discovered new wines from Austria, South Africa, Uruguay, Georgia. 

We don’t know where our journey will take us in 2023 but we’re confident the ride will be fun.   

Thank you for sharing our journey in 2022. May you have a safe and happy new year. 

Some 2022 epiphanies: 

La Jota Vineyard Merlot 2019. Rich plum, blueberry, chocolate and herb notes with a mix of softness and complexity. 

Kosta Brown Cerise Vineyard Chardonnay 2018.  Expensive, yes, but it’s not your daddy’s chardonnay. Complex and balanced. 

Bouchaine Swan Clone Pinot Noir 2019. One of several single-clone pinot noirs, this gem was very perfumy and rich. 

Gerard Bertrand Clos d’Ora 2017. Dark, aromatic and generous in fruit. 

Evodia Garnacha 2019.  Beautiful and quaffable, it is one of the best bargains on the shelf year after year. 

Cattleya Cuvee Number Five Chardonnay 2020.  Ripe and supple. 

Domaine Ott Chateau le Selle Rosé 2019.  Lively, silky and a long finish. 

Esporao Bico Amarelo Vinho Verde Portugal 2021 ($12). A lively blend of loureiro from Quinta do Ameal supplemented by alvarinho and avesso grapes. 

Wine picks 

Alma Rosa El Jabali Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay 2020 ($50). White flower and pear aromas start this delicious wine with a bang. Loads of rich, lemon curd and tropical fruit flavors. 

Vento di Mare Nero d’Avola Sicily 2021 ($12). Bright red fruit flavors dominate this easy-drinking nero d’avola. Don’t expect anything complicated for the money, but it’s a great quaff to sip or pair with pizza and burgers. 

Thacher Constant Variable Red 2019 ($48).  Magic happens when Rhone grape varieties come together and that is certainly the case with this blend of grenache, syrah, mourvedre, cinsaut, counoise and viognier.  We loved its big bouquet and fresh fruit character. The producer uses oak judiciously to retain the qualities of each grape variety.  

Meeker Knight’s Valley Viognier 2021 ($45). Lucas Meeker took over the winemaking after his father’s passing last year. Ready to celebrate its 40th anniversary, the Sonoma County winery continues to churn out excellent wines. This viognier has pronounced tropical fruit and peach notes with a soft mouthfeel and long finish. 

Cordant making good wines in Central Coast

December 19, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

With more than 4,200 wineries in California, it is unlikely any of us will get to them all in our lifetime. With that, it is telling that even after writing a wine column for more than 35 years, we haven’t come close. 

The bigger producers are in a distribution chain that puts their product on shelves across the country. But there are smaller producers who can’t afford to get into this national pipeline and instead rely on direct-to-consumer sales that bypass the distributor and retailer.  They make great wines but consumers who want them must have them shipped to their homes and only in states that allow it. Without a retail presence, small producers have to rely on wine clubs, tasting rooms and restaurants.  

Cordant Winery is a good example. Founded in 2014 by David and DeAnn Taylor, it makes about 4,000 cases of wine a year – 90 percent of which is sold directly to consumers.  David spent more than 30 years in Silicon Valley before chasing a dream of owning a winery. 

Cordant sources grapes from Monterey County in northern Central Coast through Santa Barbara County farther south.  Some of the wines are vineyard-designated while others are blends. 

We recently met up with Evan Taylor, who joined his parents as Cordant’s brand director in 2020. A perfect salesman with a passion for his family’s wines, he extols the pinot noir and Rhone-style wines for which this region is known.  

Delestage is one of the techniques to make these wines so approachable, Taylor said. That’s the process of fermenting red wine with its skins and seeds and extracting maximum phenolic attributes by oxygenating the juice. The result is a softer wine with less tannins and more fruit character – ready for drinking on release. It is a common practice in making pinot noir, for instance. 

We loved the 2020 Cordant Solomon Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir ($70), a sophisticated wine from Santa Maria Valley. Its youthful, spirited character showed off red berry fruit and balanced acidity.  

The 2020 Cordant Radian Vineyard Pinot Noir is a combination of subtlety and finesse. Effusive red berry and cola aromas with fresh black cherry flavors and hints of spice and earth. Radian sources grapes for many producers, including The Hilt, Hartford and Byron. 

But our favorite of our tasting was the 2019 Nelle Old Vines Enz Vineyard Mourvedre ($67). Muscular in style and long in the finish, it has classic blue fruit flavors and an earthy feel. This wine will carry the Cordant label in future wines. The vines for this delicious mourvedre are 112 years old, making them the oldest in the state, according to Taylor. The vineyard is located in the Line Kiln Valley of Monterey County. 

The 2020 Cordant Wills Hills Grenache ($62) gets fruit from the westside of Paso Robles. Opulent and textured, it has fresh raspberry and strawberry flavors with candy cherry aromas. It’s more complex than your average grenache. Taylor said Wills Hills is a fan favorite among family and friends. 

Cordant’s director of winemaking is Scott Stelzle. 

Turnbull 

There is no shortage of premium cabernet sauvignon in Napa Valley, California’s most eminent wine-growing region where vineyard land is expensive. Rare, however, is a cabernet sauvignon that costs less than $100 a bottle if you can find it. While most consumers have reluctantly raised their wine bar to $20, those who desire Napa Valley reds will have to go much higher. That’s just the reality. 

While we thought we have tasted most of these pricey wines, there is always one or two that escapes our attention. Such is the case with Turnbull in the Oakville region of Napa Valley.  

We tasted three estate-grown, single-vineyard cabernets that stood out for their individual character but also for their consistent balance and finesse, a tribute to winemaker Peter Heitz who has extracted the best from the terroir. 

He was blessed with an exceptional vintage in 2019, which he calls a vintage “with a lot of stuffing”, or round tannins for aging, structure for power and tension for an exciting experience. 

We like the Fortuna Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from a valley-floor vineyard first planted in the 1890s. Very floral with layers of raspberries, cherries and plum notes. 

The Leopoldina Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is much more typical of the Oakville region with extracted plum and cassis notes, a kirsch-like smoothness and hints of herbs and mint.  

The Amoenus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is the only one using estate-grown grapes not in Oakville. With elevations of 860 feet, it takes on more heft and complexity with a melange of red and dark fruit flavors.  As Heitz said, “This is a wine that draws you in and never lets you go.” Amen. 

These wines are expensive at more than $100 apiece but they pack a lot of stuffing as the winemaker claims. 

Wine picks 

Cuvaison Arcilla Merlot 2019 ($70). Those who are tired of insipid merlots should reach for this gem. Yes, pricey, but you get a lot of delicious fruit cloaked in a good balance between acidity and fruit character. Made entirely from estate-grown merlot, it has supple blackberry and black cherry flavors. 

Tasca d’Almerita Sallier de la Tour Inzolia Sicily 2021 ($16). You won’t find something better than this for the price. Inzolia is a grape variety known more for marsala, but in Sicily it does well as a dry varietal wine. Intense orange blossom and almond aromas and pear, apple flavors. 

Tasca d’Almerita Sallier de La Tour Syrah Sicily 2020 ($20). Although syrah has been cultivated on Sicily since the mid-19th century, it is not the first grape that comes to mind when you think of this region. So, we were delighted to discover this gem. Made entirely from syrah grapes, it has rich blackberry and plum notes with firm tannins and balance. 

Highlands Forty One Pinot Noir Monterey County 2020 ($15). This is a terrific deal in a field of pinot noir that often cost north of $50. Medium in body, it has fresh and quaffable cherry fruit flavors with a hint of spice. 

Champagnes, sparkling wine for the holidays

December 12, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Although wine is not seasonal by design, the majority of sparkling wine and champagne is purchased in the last two months of the year. People gravitate to a glass of bubbles -- “stars” as the monk Dom Perignon called them – for the celebrations that accompany the end-of-year holidays. Of course, sparkling wine is also associated with weddings, promotions, birthdays and other celebrations – but none so momentous as New Year’s Eve. 

No wine brings a festive atmosphere to a party like sparkling wine – especially champagne, a name reserved for the wines from the Champagne region of northeast France.  You can’t help but feel in a party mood as the bubbles slowly rise from the bottom of a tulip glass and dance spiritedly on the tongue. It sets the mood for celebration. 

Sparkling wine is made in just about every country and with an array of grape varieties. In Champagne  – where sparkling wine was born – only chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot menieur are used. In Italy, home of prosecco, it is the glera grape that dominates sparkling wine.  In Spain, macabeo, parellada and xarello are the primary grapes used to make cava. 

Prosecco is often the sparkling wine of choice because of its value. Slightly sweet, prosecco is also low in alcohol – generally 11.5 percent as compared to 14 to 15 percent for other sparkling wine. You can buy it as a rosé and Corvezzo even makes it organic and vegan. Other labels to look for include Mionetto and La Marca. 

No matter what the grape varieties, the process – which the French have dubbed “methode champenois” -- is about the same. Wine is first fermented in barrel and then fermented a second time in a bottle to seal in the CO2. The still fermenting wine is capped in a strong bottle to contain the gas until it is opened.  There are variations of this – such as cremant – but the process of creating CO2 is similar. 

Global warming has had a profound effect on Champagne. Currently, the warming temperatures in this cool region are ideal. But the French depend on underripe grapes to make their special wine, so if temperatures continue to warm, the ideal region may move north. Southern England is currently making excellent sparkling wines as good as champagne. 

You can spend a lot of money on champagne for such iconic labels at Crystal, Krug, Salon and Dom Perginon. But there are many other reliable French producers whose prices are often less than what you would pay for a sparkling wine from the United States. As supplies for these less expensive wines are abundant at this time of year, you don’t have to spend big bucks for luxury anymore.  

If your holiday includes sparkling wine or champagne, here are 10 recommendations, many of which will not break the bank: 

Champagne Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs ($90). We visited this property during a recent tour of France and expected to enjoy the iconic rosé most of all. But it was this wine, made entirely from chardonnay grapes, that impressed us the most. An abundance of tiny bubbles is the first indication of quality. But it is the balance and finesse that separates this wine from the crowd. Brioche aromas and lingering almond and orange zest flavors under a cloak of creamy texture. 

Nicolas-Feuillatte Brut ($35). If it’s champagne or nothing at your house, Nicolas-Feuillatte delivers a lot for the money.  Creamy texture with citrus and spice notes. 

Veuve-Cliquot Brut Yellow Label ($50). Citrus aromas, zesty acidity and clean, apple flavors with a dash of vanilla. It is a blend of pinot noir, chardonnay and pinot meunier. 

Chartogne-Taillet Brut Cuvee Sainte Anne ($60). More than a decade ago we visited with the owners of this small grower champagne house.  The champagne wasn’t as well recognized then as it is now but it is just as impressive as the day we tasted it. This blend includes all three champagne grape varieties and is stunning for its balance and finesse. 

Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs 2019 ($42).  This producer was the first in California to make a commercial sparkling wine from chardonnay grapes. We have found it to be reliable and consistent year after year. In fact, we recently opened a 2004 Schramsberg J. Schram and it was one of the best we’ve ever tasted with this kind of age.  The Blanc de Blancs is vibrant, fresh with apple and almond notes. 

Frank Family Vineyards Brut Rosé 2017 ($55).  From one of the most historic properties in Napa, this exciting rosé is a melange of raspberry and strawberry flavors with a hint of orange and mineral. 

Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee ($45). Iron Horse is a reliable producer of some of Sonoma County’s best sparkling wine.  Made mostly from pinot noir grapes, it has good weight and an expressive personality. Raspberry and cherry notes. 

Scharffenberger Cellars Brut Excellence Rosé ($29). We always like the sparkling wine that comes from this Anderson Valley producer. Clean, refreshing strawberry flavors with a hint of lemon and lime. 

19 Crimes Snoop Cali Gold ($20). 19 Crimes has a new rebel in its line-up – rap star Snoop Dogg, whose face graces the bottle. It’s not our cup of tea, so to speak, but if you like considerable sugar with your Dogg, this eclectic blend of white grapes will be a conversation piece. 

Gruet Blanc de Blancs ($36). This sparkling wine from New Mexico continues to astound us for its champagne-like profile. Balanced, dry and delicate with grapefruit and apple flavors and almond aroma. 

Wine picks 

J. Lohr Estates Riverstone Chardonnay 2021 ($14). One of the best buys in chardonnay, this wine draws from 10 clones of estate-grown chardonnay. The palate is creamy with Meyer lemon and vanilla. Aromas are of peach and spice.  

Chalk Hill Estate Founder’s Block Chardonnay 2020 ($100). Most people don’t think about spending this kind of money on a chardonnay, but it can be as rewarding as an equally expensive cabernet sauvignon. Celebrating its 50th anniversary, Chalk Hill is the first from an old block replanted in 2014. Very rich with apple and ripe pear flavors. 

 Laetitia Estate Chardonnay Arroyo Grande Valley 2021 ($22). This is a great value in chardonnay. We pitted it against more expensive wines and it excelled.  Generous mouthfeel, apple and tropical fruit notes with a good dollop of spice. 

Luxury wines for a luxurious holiday

December 5, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

Many of us will be memorializing the upcoming holidays with great food and wine. As much as we love the traditional food associated with Thanksgiving, it’s Christmas that begs for something special to share with just a spouse or a few people who are closest to us. Maybe it’s just Christmas Eve, New Year’s Eve or New Year’s Day, but we try to reserve one day for an intimate dinner with spouses or close friends. It’s a time to bring out the special plates, table cloths and candles to make this really special.

This is a holiday that for us calls for red meat – prime rib or rack of lamb that are not often on our plates most of the year. These cuts aren’t cheap but because of their size they are meant to be shared.  Their fatty contents pairs nicely with cabernet sauvignon, merlot of blends of red Bordeaux grapes.

We dig into our cellars for wines that we have aged for decades. Not everyone has a cellar of mature wines, but there are plenty of current releases just as noteworthy. Only with red meat can the tannins on these big wines be tamed.  We know these wines are expensive, but maybe once a year we can break the bank for holiday luxury.

Here are several luxurious red wines to share that moment:

Chappellet Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($325). Pritchard Hill is arguably the most sought-after vineyards in Napa Valley. Rising from 800 to 1,800 feet, the vineyard has 40 blocks of cabernet sauvignon from which winemaker Phillip Corallo-Titus draws his fruit for this colossal wine.  He says the 2019 “strikes a balance between opulence and elegance that is both thought provoking and profoundly rewarding.” Indeed, it is. Very complex and ageworthy with floral, cassis aromas and ripe dark berry flavors with hints of vanilla bean and spice. Very nuanced. 

Viader Black Label 2018 ($150).  This is an eclectic and rich blend of estate-grown cabernet sauvignon, syrah, cabernet franc and malbec. Ripe blackberry, cassis and plum fruit with hints of mocha and baking spice.  Opulent dark fruit aromas. 

Gamble Family Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($60). Petit verdot, malbec, merlot and cabernet franc are blended with this Bordeaux-like wine from a producer who is not embarrassed to call himself a farmer first, a winemaker second.  Blackberry, cassis and vanilla aromas are followed by jammy and rich blackberry and plum flavors with a hint of mocha and cedar. 

Faust The Pact Coombsville Napa Valley 2019 ($125). We loved this cabernet sauvignon from the start but despite the soft mouthfeel, it can improve with age. Lots of blue fruit and mineral aromas with black cherry, cassis and herb flavors. 

La Jota Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Franc 2019 ($125).  Winemaker Chris Carpenter turns out one hit after the other for this property, which is celebrating its 125th anniversary. Not many winemakers can produce a cabernet franc that can stand on its own without massive assistance from other grape varieties. But from the grape grown in mountain vineyards, he gets concentration, complexity and depth. Violet and dried herbal aromas give way to blackberry and black cherry flavors with a touch of kirsch.

Baldacci Fraternity Red Wine Napa Valley 2019 ($70). Cabernet sauvignon makes up 46 percent of this blend with the balance coming from merlot, syrah and cabernet franc grapes.  With this breadth, the wine is fittingly broad-shouldered with blue fruit and olive aromas, strawberry and pomegranate flavors, and long in the finish. The tannins are big here, so decant or age. 

Stags’ Leap Winery Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($110). Full bodied with fine tannins and intense red berry, herbal aromas. Ripe cassis and blackberry flavors. 

Sullivan Coeur de Vigne 2019 ($130). Celebrating its 50th anniversary, Sullivan has something to cheer with this spectacular edition of its vaunted Coeur de Vigne. There is a good dose of merlot in the blend to soften the Rutherford-grown cabernet sauvignon.  Rich and round with black cherry, spice and pepper flavors and layers of aromas ranging from boysenberry to forest floor. 

Sosie Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County Moon Mountain District Charlie Smith Vineyard 2019 ($75). Only 75 barrels of this beauty were made. A big wine but balanced offering black cherry notes elegant oak with some herbs and a mocha finish.

Cuvaison Diablo Syrah 2019 ($70). Syrah makes serious wines in Northern Rhone Valley, but it can also be complex in Napa Valley. Diablo is the clay soil that nourish the 21-year-old vines that give this syrah good complexity and depth. Although the tannins are soft, the fruit is abundant with plum and currant notes augmented by hints of black pepper and leather.

Darioush Signature Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 ($125). The fruit for this spectacular wine come from Mount Veeder and Napa Valley AVAs. Great concentration and fresh fruit character with black fruit flavors, depth and balance.

Wine picks

Looking for something special to go with red meat but more reasonably priced? Here are some suggestions:

Textbook Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($33).  This is a delightful, balanced and approachable cabernet sauvignon that is reasonably priced for Napa Valley.  Blueberry and mint aromas are followed by jammy dark fruit flavors and a long finish.

Josh Cellars North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($22). This is a great deal in cabernet sauvignon, a category f vastly overpriced and over-hyped wines.  In a more handsome and hefty bottle than its popular introductory red wine, this cabernet has an expressive aroma of plums and black cherries with hints of violets and nuts. The black cherry notes continue on the palate with the addition of vanilla and mocha.

Ventisquero Grey Valle de Colchagua Apalta Vineyard Red Blend 2017 ($25). From a single block, the grapes for this complex Chilean blend include garnacha, carinena, and mataro. Floral and cassis aromas are followed by fresh cherry and raspberry flavors with a hint of blueberries and pepper. Good tannins give this aging potential but it can be easily enjoyed now. This is a great deal for anyone looking for complex wines or who want to start a wine cellar on a low budget.

Gift ideas for the oenphile

November 28, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

There once was a time when enjoying wine was a simple matter of popping a cork. Today, however, you need the right tool to remove the cork, a carafe to let it breathe and an expensive glass that is not only elegant but brings out the best in aromas and flavors. Life is complicated. 

At this time of the year many of us will be scrambling to find a wine gift for the particular relative or friend who already has enough wine to last him or her a lifetime. The internet is happy to oblige. 

We remember our parents poring over the holiday edition of the Sears & Roebuck Catalog – a tome that in previous generations could be found aside the family commode. Pages were dog-earred and items were circled in a thinly disguised hint to family members stumped on what to give.  

The wine enthusiast’s version of the Sears & Roebuck catalog is a much thinner IWA catalog that we recently received. The 60-page publication is filled with items, many of which are as unnecessary as they are expensive. For instance, for $20 you can get 8 “wands” that will remove 95 percent of the histamines and sulfites from a glass of wine. Or for $55 you can get a “Clef du Vin,” a tool when put into a glass will age the wine one year per second. In other words, if the winemaker didn’t produce a wine you like, voila, you can fix it. 

There are much more practical gifts – cork screws, wine preservers, wine vaults and more. Whether you want to spend this kind of money, though, is up to you. 

Looking for a corkscrew? Laguiole prices range from $175 to $450. We love ours but it’s more because of its sleekness and wood finish. A waiter’s corkscrew – less attractive but equally effective – can be found on Amazon for less than $30.  

You don’t finish a bottle and want to preserve leftover wine for the next day? Coravin has systems ranging from $179 to $549 and draw wine from the bottle without ever removing the cork. Aragon capsules and travel case are extra. Or you can buy a Vacu-Vin for $20 that pumps air out of a bottle -- effective if we’re talking about saving it for a day.  

Do you bring wine to the party and want a carrier this is something better than a grocery bag? A leather one will impress your host as you walk in the door, but expect to pay more than $100.  Just don’t leave it behind.  Or, you can get an insulated one made out of canvas for $20. Just as effective and no one will steal it. 

We’ve been to many houses in which the stemware is an assortment of thick Libby hand-me-downs and etched souvenirs from some tasting room.  The bowls are different sizes and shapes. While a universal glass holds the wine as good as an expensive crystal glass, the experience in tasting the wine is not going to be the same for most discerning wine enthusiasts. Several years ago we joined Austrian Georg Riedel to taste the difference a bowl shape can make. He produces a different glass for every grape variety. Good crystal will cost $65 for a pair of glasses. 

Books for either the new wine enthusiast or the collector are always good gifts. “The World Atlas of Wine” by Jancis Robinson and Hugh Johnson is one of the best compendiums in wine. Now in its 8th edition, it covers the world and has been our go-to book for decades. 

For the person who doesn’t need reference material, there are a lot of good reads, including “The Judgement of Paris” by George Taber, “Wine and War” by Donald Kladstrup, “Adventures on the Wine Trail” by Kermit Lynch and “The Billionaire’s Vinegar” by Benjamin Wallace. 

Of course, the gift that fits everyone and is never returned is a bottle of wine.  Here are six very nice gifts for that special person: 

Cakebread Cellars Suscol Springs Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($130). Cakebread is known for more that its brilliant sauvignon blanc. This reserve cabernet has dense black fruit and violet aromas with black cherry and plum flavors. Good tannins and balanced acidity make for a great wine.  

Ladera Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($89). Sourcing grapes from the prized appellations of Howell Mountain, Atlas Peak, Pritchard Hill and Calistoga, Ladera has a great and well-structured wine. Bright black cherry and plum notes with a hint of coffee and spice. 

Emeritus Vineyards Pinot Hill West Pinot Noir ($75). This Sonoma Coast producer has two side of a vineyard – one facing east and the other facing west. Each are unique, but we happened to like the Pinot Hill West.  Because of the location and exposure, the fruit ripens slowly to produce a deeply colored wine with interesting hints of herbs and raspberry. 

Gundlach-Bundschu Vintage Reserve 2018 ($140). This historic Sonoma County producer has a winner with its Bordeaux-variety blend that honors its 160th anniversary.  Its fabled Rhinefarm Estate vineyards lie on the southwest slope of the Mayacama Mountain Range and eight miles north of the San Pablo Bay. This year’s version of this deep and complex wine is the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. The tannins are sure but fine and the mouthfeel deceivingly soft and generous. Big cassis and dark fruit flavors with hints of herbs and chocolate.  

Kenefick Ranch Cabernet Franc Caitlin’s Select 2018 ($50).  From another small, family-owned producer in Napa Valley, this sturdy cabernet franc is worth the search.  Bright raspberry and cherry notes with a hint of chocolate and a lingering finish.  The vineyard was founded by neurosurgeon Dr. Tom Kenefick. It is now managed by his son, Chris. 

Tosalet Carignan Vinyes Velles 2013 ($89).  This an incredibly rich and sturdy carignan that exemplifies the serious wine coming from the Priorat region of Spain. From old vines and blended with 8 percent cabernet sauvignon, the wine has generous spice and tobacco aromas, full body and dark fruit flavors with a hint of coffee. 

Wine picks 

Beronia Crianza 2018 ($15).  A good value from Rioja, this is mostly tempranillo with a little garnacha and mazuelo tossed in. Simple but delicious, it has black cherry notes. 

L’Ecole No. 41 Columbia Valley Merlot 2019 ($27). From an iconic producer in Washington state, this perennial favorite shows off generous plum and floral aromas and black cherry, mocha and kirsch flavors. Blended with cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot. 

M. Chapoutier Belleruche Blanc Cotes-du-Rhone 2021 ($15). Grenache blanc, rousanne, viognier, clairette and bourboulenc combine to make this fresh and flavorful blend a perfect aperitif or good company with oysters, sardines and shrimp.  Stone fruit, fennel and anise notes abound. 

The best wines to go with football

November 21, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Thanksgiving will bring family around the dining room table, but eventually it also will bring people around the television set. With football as traditional as turkey on Thanksgiving Day, it is a way for guests to pass time before or after the sumptuous repast.  

Whether your team be the Navy Midshipmen (go, Navy!) or the Maryland Terps, there is something to cheer about at this time of the year.  Given the threat of nuclear war, national politics and a looming recession to keep our minds busy, there is nothing like a good match on the gridiron to divert our attention and even bring people together. We are willing to accept differences of opinion in regards to football than we are in regards to politics.  

There’s always snacks on the coffee table in front of the television to keep our appetites sated mid-day with plans for a hearty dinner after the afternoon game is over – and often during a late afternoon game. While beer is a good option to offset salty snacks, we turn to wine – this being a wine column. 

Rosé is versatile wine to go with cheese, dips and salty snacks. We love sauvignon blanc with lime-based guacamole dips, popcorn and salsa.  If you have buffalo wings on the plate, zinfandel or syrah is a good call. Just keep in mind these wines pack a lot of alcohol. We know the game is exciting, but you don’t want to be the drunk to ruin dinner. 

During colder months, we love to have a pot of chili available all day. If you have a crowd to the house, chili is easy to make for a crowd and your friends can draw a bowl from the pot whenever hunger strikes. For this dish, we turn to Rhone Valley’s Cotes du Rhone or gigondas, California zinfandels or Washington state merlots. 

Another common dish at our houses on football weekends is stew – beef, pork or lamb. Again, it’s an easy dish to prepare in advance and serve at half-time or in between games. If that’s your call, look to hearty wine: an Argentine malbec, Italian rosso di montalcino or barbara, or – our favorite -- a Spanish tempranillo.  

Hot dogs present a challenge for wine, but we recommend rosé (or just give in to beer). Burgers can be paired with a number of wines but they should all be simple: zinfandel, syrah, dolcetto, merlot. 

Looking for vegetarian or piscatorian menus? Fish tacos with albarino or a New Zealand sauvignon blanc, pinot noir with grilled portabellos, chenin blanc or a Rhone Valley white blend with grilled vegetables. 

If you have your mind set on steak, break out the cabernet sauvignons to offset those marbled cuts of beef. 

Here are some football wines that we have found keep it simple: 

Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec 2019 ($20).  This outstanding wine from Argentina has firm tannins and grip to make it a good wine to pair with steak or wild game. Floral aromas, dark berry flavors and long finish. Well worth the price.  

Morande Gran Reserva Casablanca Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($20). Herbal and honey aromas are followed by aggressive grapefruit and white peach flavors.  

Chalk Hill Estate-Bottled Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($20). Generous grapefruit notes followed by melon and tropical fruit flavors. Crisp acidity.  

Gerard Bertrand Cotes des Roses Pinot Noir 2021 ($17).  This southern France producer has a great line of inexpensive wines in a distinctive, rose-shaped bottle.  The wine is as attractive as the package. The name is a nod to the Roses Coast, a beach by the Mediterranean Sea and includes a rosé, chardonnay, sauvignon and this pinot noir.  Creative director Emma Bertrand coupled the wines with a stunning photo series by David LaChapelle.   

Le Fat Bastard Chardonnay Pays D’OC IGP 2020 ($15). An interesting offering from the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France. Luscious tropical fruit flavors with just a hint of oak, a streak of minerality and a vanillin finish. A lot of wine for 15 bucks.     

Ritual Pinot Noir 2019 ($21). This pinot noir from Chile’s Casablanca Valley packs a lot of fruit for the money.  It’s so hard to find a pinot noir at this price that is this good. Simple, red berry flavors and a touch of spice. 

Beronia Crianza 2018 ($15). This quaffable and generous blend from Rioja is made up of tempranillo (96 percent), garnacha and mazuelo.  Violet aromas with black cherry, raspberry flavors with a hint of vanilla. 

Paxton NOW Shiraz 2021 ($23). From Australia’s McLaren Vale, this juicy shiraz has a lot of forward blackberry and raspberry fruit.  NOW stands for Natural Organic Wine. 

Wine picks 

Olema Cotes de Provence Rosé 2021 ($15).  This California producer has put its stamp on a rosé made in Provence. It is a classic blend of grenache, syrah , cinsault and carignan.  Beautiful and bright peach and melon flavors. 

Landmark Damaris Reserve Chardonnay 2020 ($40). If you like oak with your chardonnay, this is a wine for you.  Pear and citrus notes with hints of vanilla and spice. 

Chateau Minuty Prestige Cotes de Provence Rosé 2021 ($35).  We really enjoyed this classy and fresh rosé with floral aromas and flavors of citrus and strawberries.  The mineral notes are classic to this region. 

Souleil Vin de Bonte Le Blanc 2020 ($16). This vin de France is an incredibly satisfying wine that is sure to please a broad array of palates.  The blend is 50 percent piquepoul with the rest made up of terret blanc, ugni blanc and muscat. Very aromatic with ripe pineapple and tropical fruit flavors. 

Amici Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($45). From the prime region of Napa Valley, this sauvignon blanc has more stuffing than your average sauvignon blanc. Entirely barrel fermented, it shows off an array of aromas from lemon to pineapple. Citrus flavors with a hint of mineral. 

Choosing a wine for Thanksgiving dinner is not rocket science

November 14, 2022

 By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

In the next week many of you will be headed to the store in preparation for the Thanksgiving feast. Perhaps you will be picking up a fresh turkey, a leg of lamb, ham or maybe Dover sole – delicious fare for this family gathering around the dining table. Many of you also will be stopping at the wine store to find the perfect wine to go with that scrumptious dinner. 

Alas, there is no perfect wine. 

There is probably no other holiday dinner with such an assortment of flavors. It’s one thing to find a wine to pair with the entrée, but quite another to find a wine that does equally well with vegetables and starches. 

Take, for instance, the turkey.  Because fowl is such a neutral meat, consider it a blank canvas on which to paint nearly any color of wine. Whether it be a pinot noir or a chardonnay, it may not do equally well with cranberries, sausage stuffing, candied yams or baked vegetables.  But neither will over-power your foot. Your best bet is to put both red and white wines on the table and let your guests worry about it – and most won’t.  

We like to start the grand event with a champagne. Champagne sets a festive mood and teases the palate for a hearty meal. You can serve it as guests arrive or pour it when they take their seats at the table.  It is the traditional wine to serve with a toast from the host – and it’s a versatile wine to go with most foods. We favor the exquisite champagnes from Billecart-Salmon – expensive but apt for special occasions such as holiday dinners. 

A Thanksgiving turkey is hard to prepare in advance, so the chef will be busy in the kitchen. It always helps to have guests stir the gravy, cut the turkey or at least get the food to the table. An adult member of the family – or a guest – should be assigned the task of refilling wine glasses because the chefs have their hands full.  

As for the dinner wine, you should choose wines that can be universally enjoyed – not that weird wine from Wisconsin you’ve been saving, the white zinfandel you like or the new discovery from Lebanon. The only wines not likely to do well with turkey are tannic cabernet sauvignons or barolos. Pinot noirs and chardonnays remain our favorite with rosé and riesling as close seconds. Avoid oaky chardonnays. And, although zinfandel is an all-American grape variety, it’s too ripe and alcoholic to complement turkey.  

Another good option is beaujolais.  Les Vins Georges Duboeuf has a great bargain in its nouveau at just $15. 

If ham is your entree, you’ll need something to offset the saltiness of the meat. Sauvignon blanc works well. Albarino, a white from the Rhone Valley or Portugal are good alternatives. 

Leg of lamb or a prime rib roast is an entirely different matter. Here it is best to bring out those complex cabernet sauvignons to match the fat. Big wines from Italy – barolo or barbaresco – are good choices as are the wines of Bordeaux and Northern Rhone. 

If you have a big crowd invited, it is imprudent to serve expensive wine, especially if you are uncertain everyone will appreciate it.  Once the meal gets going, there is little attention paid to the wine. If, however, your table is more intimate, then memorialize the occasion with special wine. 

Here are some suggested wines: 

Chardonnay for a crowd: Wente Morning Fog, Bonterra Organic, Josh, J. Lohr, Colombia Crest. 

Pinot noir for a crowd: Erath, MacMurray Ranch, Raeburn, Siduri, J. Lohr, McManis, Bertrand Cotes to Roses. 

Sparkling wines for a crowd: Paula Kornell California Brut, La Marca or Ruffino prosecco, Segura Viudas cava, Gloria Ferrer, Domaine Chandon. If you want French champagne, we recommend the relatively inexpensive Nicolas Feuillatte. 

Otherwise, here are a dozen very nice wines for an appreciative crowd: 

Flowers Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2021 ($55). Despite challenging drought, Flowers was able to produce another spectacular chardonnay. Lime and pear aromas are followed by round peach and mineral flavors. Fresh acidity makes it a good wine to pear with fowl or fish. 

Hahn SLH Pinot Noir 2019 ($30). This pinot noir from Santa Lucia Highlands is one of the best deals we’ve seen in a long time. It has the character and weight of a much more expensive pinot noir. Black cherry and raspberry notes with a hint of vanilla and generous mouthfeel. 

Landmark Damaris Reserve Chardonnay 2020 ($40). This wonderful chardonnay will not overpower your turkey and stuffing.  Apple and citrus aromas with pear flavors and hints of vanilla and spice. 

Alma Rosa El Jabali Pinot Noir 2020 ($72). We really like the chardonnays and pinot noirs from Sta. Rita Hills. This one from the estate’s El Jabali vineyard shows off the elegant and terroir character. Layered red fruit flavors with generous perfumy aromas. The dusty tannins make it a good foil for dinner fare. 

Kosta Brown Cerise Vineyard Anderson Valley Chardonnay 2018 ($165).  Yes, this is a lot of money for a chardonnay.  But you know it’s going to be good when Kosta Brown puts its name and reputation behind it. What makes it worthy of the price? Complexity. Generous citrus aromas, good balance and a creamy mouthfeel with ripe stone fruit flavors and a touch of almonds. 

Gary Farrell Russian River Selection Chardonnay 2020 ($35). Reasonably priced for what you get, this well-balanced chardonnay has a broad display of pear and peach notes and a hint of ginger and spice. 

Faust Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($65). The producer’s Coombsville vineyard sets the foundation for this explosive cabernet sauvignon. Floral and herbal aromas are followed by layered plum, black cherry and ripe blackberry fruit. If your entrée is meat and your guests few, this wine is sure to impress. 

FEL Anderson Valley Chardonnay 2020 ($34). A sister winery of Cliff Lede Vineyards, FEL makes consistently good chardonnay at a good price.  The cool climate of Anderson Valley keeps this wine fresh and lively. 

Chateau Ste. Michelle Eroica Riesling 2021 ($22). Always one of our favorite rieslings, this one sourced from cool climate vineyards in Washington state has a freshness and slight sweetness that will marry universally well with the turkey and side dishes.  

Chateau La Mascaronne Rosé 2021 ($30). The grenache, cinsault, syrah and vermentino mix makes for a layered and complex rosé that would do well with a turkey dinner. Stone fruit aromas and spirited citrus and red berry flavors. 

Souleil Le Blanc 2020 ($16). Not a chardonnay fan? This blend of piquepoul (50 percent), terret blanc, ugni blanc and muscat is a fresh and brisk foil to turkey.  Aromatic and dry, this southern France wine has tropical fruit and juicy pineapple notes. 

Bacigalupi Frost Ranch Pinot Noir 2018 ($79). This terrific pinot noir benefits from the cooling fogs off the Russian River which is adjacent to Frost Ranch. Strawberry and spice notes cloaked in a mouth-filling texture and a long, earthy finish. 

Clones make a difference in pinot noir. Ask Bouchaine

November 7, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Wine enthusiasts have enough on their hands to weigh the influence of soil and weather on the quality of their wines. Now comes the clones – cuttings taken from an existing vine that are then grafted onto existing rootstock. This was popularized following the devastation of vineyards caused by phylloxera in the mid-19th century. European winemakers grafted American vines to their diseased ones and saved the industry. However, since then winemakers have gone one step further by introducing clones to craft a certain flavor profile. 

Every grape variety has clones, but none as many as pinot noir. For years, globe-trotting winemakers were secretly bringing back cuttings from Burgundy’s storied vineyards and propagating them onto their own rootstock. It was illegal – and risky – because these cuttings could carry diseases. Today, clones are created and carefully monitored by the University of California at Davis before being introduced to the vineyards. Nonetheless, several of the so-called “suitcase clones” continue to exist. 

The Swan clone, for instance, was a combination of Burgundian and California cuttings from Joseph Swan’s vineyard in Sonoma County.  The rest of its trail is pretty muddy. Dijon is another popular pinot noir clone but there are really several Dijon clones – 113, 114, 115 provide red fruit character while 667, 777 and 828 bring darker fruit to the wine. 

Wine enthusiasts rarely get a chance to taste clonal variations because most winemakers like to blend them to create a pinot noir with a broad array of fruit flavors. However, Bouchaine Vineyards in Napa sells three single-clone estate pinot noirs in addition to a blend. These blocks of single-clones are grown in relatively the same soil and using same methods so that the differences are focused on the clones. 

We had the opportunity to taste these wines with winemaker and general manager Chris Kajani. It was fascinating. 

Kajani, who previously made wine at Pahlmeyer and Saintsbury, came to Bouchaine in 2015. She is making small quantities of single-clone pinot noirs -- Swan, Pommard and Dijon -- as well as chardonnay and other wines. 

Bouchaine was founded in 1981 by Tatiana and Gerret Copeland. It is in the cooler part of Napa Valley’s Carneros region and benefits from fog and winds from San Pablo Bay.  

The 2019 Swan Clone Pinot Noir, planted in the 1990s, was light in color, which can be deceiving because you don’t expect much depth from a red wine so light. However, this one was very perfumy and had cherry, spice flavors. Its elegance was in contrast with the 2019 Pommard Clone Pinot Noir, which clobbers the palate with a load of unctuous blueberry and plum flavors plus a hint of mocha – all traits Kajani attributes to the clone. The Pommard had less acidity than the Swan but more tannin. 

She called the Pommard a “showstopper.” She’s right.  

We liked the 2019 Dijon Clone Pinot Noir, the darkest of the three. It showed off some nice elegance and structure, plus black cherry, spice and tea rose notes. It is made from the 667 Dijon clone and has fine tannins and a long finish. 

These wines sellsfor $65 apiece and are best found at Bouchaine’s web site. 

The 2019 Bouchaine Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir ($40) combines several clones and is a great value.  

One can argue persuasively that the whole is better than the sum of the parts and that single-clone pinot noirs are boring because they taste alike no matter where they are grown. A pinot noir in the hands of a winemaker with many clonal choices has more opportunity for uniqueness and complexity.  We’ll buy that, but the Bouchaine wines we tasted were different amongst themselves and that made for an enjoyable event. 

These wines would make for a good holiday gift for the wine enthusiast in your circle. 

Jordan 

Jordan Winery is one of the bedrock anchors of the modern era of winemaking in Napa and Sonoma Valleys. Founded in 1972 by Tom and Sally Jordan and releasing their first cabernet sauvignon in 1976, the Jordans have stuck to creating wines that reflect a distinctive French style. Their wines possess a balance and restraint that sometimes clashes with the current fashion of some California producers where bold fruit expressions and elevated alcohol levels flirt with those of heady port wine. Most Jordan vintages result in wines in the 13 percent range. Bucking the current fashion of buttery chardonnays Jordan limits malolactic fermentation.                                                                                             

We recently tasted two current vintages of Jordan wines and were impressed with their drinkability and adherence to their house style.  

The Jordan Chardonnay Sonoma County Russian River Valley 2020 ($40) is definitely European in style with apple and pear notes, firm acidity and no overt oak.   

The Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County Alexander Valley 2018 ($60) also reflects the restrained, balanced house style with cherry, cassis and plum notes with a hint of tobacco. Very easy to drink by itself or with a wide variety of cuisines.  
Wine picks 

Reddy Vineyards “The Circle” Proprietary Field Blend Texas High Plains 2017 ($35). Texas is certainly not a heavy hitter in wine production in the United States. Not making the top ten in production, it even ranks behind states such as Vermont and Kentucky. Even though it has low production, a recent tasting led us to believe that there is great potential in their wine quality. The Texas High Plains AVA shows the greatest potential so far for Texas wine producers where over 70 percent of total tonnage originates. A blend of eight different French and Italian red grapes creates a terrific complex blend. Ripe cherries and strawberries dominate the wine with a bit of tartness that added interest and liveliness. This wine may be hard to source but is worth the effort.                            

Gary Farrell Russian River Selection Pinot Noir 2020 ($45). From the Russian River Valley, this round and delicious pinot noir exudes black raspberry compote flavors, violet and herbal aromas and tantalizing hints of tea and star anise. 

Frank Family Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($60). A little petit verdot and merlot goes into this ripe and juicy wine with plum and blackberry flavors and a hint of clove. Good length and depth. 

Cecchi making strides in Tuscany

October 31, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

When the subject of Italian wine is brought up, it’s hard not to think first of chianti, a wine that has been with us for generations. First documented in the 14th century, chianti has been a mainstay of Italian dinners whether the fare be a plate of bolognese sauce on pasta or veal piccata. But despite its lasting popularity, chianti has struggled to achieve the recognition of other Italian wine regions. 

The breakdown first occurred in the 20th century when the original zone expanded to include a much greater area in central Tuscany. The vast area encouraged mass production and it wasn’t long before we were wallowing in bulk wine sold in straw-covered fiasco bottles. As much as 30 percent of the blend included white varietals.  

But by the mid-1980s, things began to change. White varietals were greatly reduced and more foreign varietals, such as cabernet sauvignon and merlot, were allowed. Lower yields and smaller barrels led to a drive for quality by a new generation of winemakers who eschewed the philosophies of their fathers. 

Sangiovese, the foundation grape in chianti, is not the easiest grape to grow. Because it doesn’t always fully ripen, the acidity can be high. It needs help from other grape varieties, such as canoilo and coroino. Winemakers there rejoiced when cabernet sauvignon and merlot were allowed. 

Despite what you may think, Tuscany ranks 7th in Italy in regards to wine production – lower than Piedmont – yet it’s probably the most ubiquitous wine from this country. It’s certainly one of the least expensive, making it a popular choice for home-cooked meals and in cheap Italian restaurants where it is served on red-checkered tablecloths. 

Finding a quality chianti can be an exhausting exercise with more failures than successes. We have found the exercise easier when we recognize a quality producer, such as Antinori, Fontodi, Badia a Coltibuono and Castello di Monsanto. 

Recently, we tasted several impressive wines from Famiglia Cecchi, operated by fourth-generation brothers Cesare and Andrea Cecchi, in a virtual tasting with Cecchi’s senior winemaker Miria Bracali. Founded more than a century ago, Cecchi has five other estates – four in Tuscany and one in Umbria.  Villa Cerna in Castellina was acquired in the 1960s. Val delle Rose in Maremma was added in 1996, Tenuta Alzatura in Montefalco Umbria in the 1990s and Villa Rosa in Castellina in 2015. The last acquisition was 15 acres in Montalcino. 

The family is focused on organic farming – wines from this vintage will be made entirely from organically grown grapes.  

Here are some of the great values we liked from this producer: 

Cecchi Chianti Classico “Storia di Famiglia” DOCG 2020 ($20). Its most widely distributed wine, the Classico is 90 percent sanvigiovese and spends 8 months in a combination of small and large barrels.  Light in color and simple in character, it has blackberry flavors. 

Villa Cerna Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2018 ($35).  One of our favorites of the tasting, this reserve, made of 95 percent sangiovese, spends more time in barrel and then an additional 9 months in bottle.  The result is a more complex and enduring wine with beautiful floral aromas, red berry notes, balanced acidity and palate length. The vineyards from this ancient estate are more than 800 feet in elevation. 

Val delle Rose Aurelio Maremma Toscana DOC 2018 ($30). A little cabernet franc is blended with this delicious and round merlot with dark fruit, pepper and chocolate notes. Bracali said she has to pay attention to the grape’s ripening because she wants to preserve the acidity. “We want it to be fresh,” she added. 

Val delle Rose Poggio Al Leone Riserva 2019 ($35).  Sangiovese is the primary grape in this region of Maremma. It ages for a minimum of 12 months in barrique barrels. Ripe blackberry and dark cherry notes. 

These are wines worth exploring. 

Other Italian gems 

Castelli del Grevepesa Clemente VII Chianti Classico DOCG 2018 ($17). The 10 percent merlot in this blend rounds off the acidic sangiovese to make this wine a delicious complement to savory dishes. Blackberry and dark cherry flavors with good spice and hints of hazelnut and vanilla. 

Nestore Bosco Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2017 ($13). We think of winter stews when we think of montepulciano and now is the time to think stews. Blended with 15 percent cabernet sauvignon, this wine has more heft with big blackberry and jammy raspberry notes. Great value. 

Caldora Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2020 ($15). Full bodied with fine tannins and loads of plum and blackberry flavors with a hint of vanilla. 

Graticciaia Agricole Vallone Salento Rosso IGT 2016 ($50). Made from 100 percent negroamaro grapes that are dried on mats in attics before crushing and fermentation. The deep color and intense fruit notes reminded us of primitivo that we have tasted. Berry and plum notes with a hint of licorice and chocolate this wine is a blockbuster to sample. Pair with bold intense meat dishes. 

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2016 ($36). This producer makes a great Chianti Classico for $20, but we like the complexity and richness you get from the aged riserva. A bit of colorino, canaiolo and ciliegiolo grapes are added to provide more color and body to the sangiovese. Complex and fresh dark fruit. 

Suadela puts focus on winemakers

October 24, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Charles Laurey shared with some friends a passion for Italy – its food, wine and culture. No matter how many others do as well, they wouldn’t think if launching a risky Italian wine brand to satisfy their passion.  But that is what Laurey and his friends did. 

Who in Italy – or any market for that matter – is willing to bet on a newcomer who doesn’t own vineyards or wineries? Or why would they think someone from Holland with a business in London would know anything about making wine in Italy? 

This is the genius of this enterprise: he convinced six well-respected winemakers spread around Italy to make a unique wine for him. Then, he put their names and images front and center on the label.  Buyers may not trust the foreigner, but they trust the winemakers. 

Laurey said, “By putting their name on the label, we felt more confident that quality will be good.” 

The six wines under the Suadela label are from several regions, including Friuli, Piedmont, Sardinia, Tuscany and Umbria. Three are single-grape varietal wines and three are blends. All but one is red. Next year’s collection will include wines made by two women winemakers and two new regions – Campania and Sicily.  

“Suadela” is a Roman goddess of temptation, seduction and love – everything Italian, right? 

Here are the winemaking illuminaries and their Suadela wines: 

Beppe Caviola, Barolo.  

Riccardo Cotarella, Rapsodia in Rosso.  

Lorenzo Landi, Cannonau di Sardegna.  

Gianni Menotti, Friuli Colli Orientali Bianco. 

Umberto Trombelli, Toscana Rosso. 

Paolo Vagaggini, Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva. 

Laurey, who said the venture is so new he hasn’t given himself a title, said the winemakers were allowed a broad license to make their wines. 

“We wanted them to make a wine they would love to drink, that is unique to us and of good quality,” Laurey said. Quantities also were limited to about 2,000 bottles. 

We tasted the wines and were particularly fond of the 2015 Suadela Cannonau di Sardegna ($32). Cannonau is a relative of grenache.  We also like the 2015 Suadela Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva ($55).  

Suadela wines are sold through its website, https://suadela.com. 

White beaujolais 

Over the years we’ve encountered a number of non-traditional white wines made from red grape varieties or white wines from traditionally red-wine regions. The first we remember was the ubiquitous, semi-sweet white zinfandel of the late 1970s that took the U.S. by storm and brought in an army of new wine drinkers. Since then, winemakers have experimented with white pinot, white merlot and white cabernet sauvignon to name a few. Because most red wine grapes express white grape must when pressed, almost any grape can result in white wine. However, a recent encounter with Beaujolais Blanc was new to us.  

Beaujolais blanc is made entirely from chardonnay grapes and accounts for only 2 percent of Beaujolais wine production.  

So why have we not stumbled on beaujolais blanc before now? Until recently chardonnay grapes grown in Beaujolais were able to be labeled the more prestigious bourgogne blanc appellation. Their northern Cote D’Or Burgundian neighbors recently objected to what they perceived as competition. A recent ruling forbade the use of bourgogne blanc for most of the beaujolais chardonnay and, voila, beaujolais blanc was born. 

Beaujolais blanc can come either from the beaujolais or beaujolais villages appellation. It is vinified for early drinking although the beaujolais villages wines can age for several years.  

We tasted three beaujolais blancs recently and were sufficiently impressed to alert our readers to these relatively undiscovered gems. Overall, the wines displayed ample acidity and a line of minerality that was mouthwatering. Dominant flavors were apple and pear, typical of unoaked chardonnay, with one exhibiting an almost toasty note -- presumably from lees aging and malolactic fermentation. All of the wines we tasted were organically farmed and were quite reasonable in the $20 to $26 range. Following are our impressions. Domaine Saint-Cyr La Galoche Blanc Beaujolais Blanc 2021 ($26). Bright fresh apple and pear with a hint of citrus ample acidity and a nice mineral streak. Laurent Perrachon Terre De Loyse Beaujolais Blanc 2020 ($18-22). A touch of creaminess with a stony quality and apple and pear notes.  

Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorees Beaujolais Blanc 2020 ($23). Smooth and rich with green apple and citrus notes and minerality. 

Wine picks 

Lucia by Pisoni Estate Cuvee Chardonnay 2021 ($50). Is there anything that Jeff Pisoni makes that isn’t a success? Not that we know of. We enjoyed this well-balanced and textured chardonnay that has pear and stone-fruit notes. 

Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($45). Broad clonal section and a bit of semillon give this sauvignon blanc great texture and character. Classic lime and grapefruit notes are augmented by a mineral note. Brisk acidity. 

Hillick & Hobbs Seneca Lake Dry Riesling 2020 ($35). New York is producing underrated wines that few wine enthusiasts know about. Riesling is one of the region’s shining stars and this one is a testament.  Soft peach flavors with good acidity and long finish. It’s delicious on its own or can marry well with fish. 

J. Lohr October Night Chardonnay 2020 ($25). Very floral aromas with peach and citrus flavors and a dash of vanilla.  Long and rich. 

Celebrate October with merlot

October 17, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

October has been declared “merlot month,” presumably by people who want to promote the sales of merlot. It is not an insurmountable task to promote a grape variety unduly maligned as much as merlot – but it is difficult. 

Merlot production in California is a fraction of what it used to be, partly because of its portrayal in the movie “Sideways” but also because merlot made in the 1990s was pathetically weedy, vegetal and atypical of what was being made successfully in Bordeaux where it is the most widely planted grape. The reason may be that California producers wanted to achieve the success of the French and picked their merlot early to capture acidity and red fruit flavors. But along with that came the vegetal notes. The California merlot made today adopts an international style that calls for a late harvest to capture dark, full-bodied wines with plum notes and velvet tannins. 

We love the merlot being made by Duckhorn, for instance. This Napa producer continues to outperform many of its competitors because it specializes in the grape variety.   

Other quality merlots are La Jota and Mt. Brave, both proudly made by Chris Carpenter. These wines exemplify what can be done with the grape when it is grown in the right places and by the right winemakers. Although it is primarily a blending grape, these producers have made merlot the dominant if not the only grape in their wines. 

One of the more promising regions for merlot is Washington State. Chateau Ste. Michelle has a great lineup of merlots under its Northstar and H3 labels. Another good one from this state is L’Ecole. 

In recognition of the month, here are a few tasty California merlots we recently enjoyed:  

Sequentis Paso Robles Reserve Merlot 2019 ($52). From Daou Family Estates, this limited-edition merlot has all the qualities that make merlot a great wine in the right hands.  We liked the copious aromas of dark fruit and spice followed by forward plum and rich raspberry compote. Hints of cedar and espresso with firm, fine tannins.  

Cuda Ridge Wines Livermore Valley Merlot 2018 ($37). From a Livermore producer who focuses on Bordeaux-style blends, this merlot has a muscular feel with fresh red berry flavors and a generous floral nose.  

Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot 2019 ($57). Blended with other Bordeaux grape varieties, this classic merlot is fruit forward with copious cherry and plum noes and a rich, luxurious mouthfeel.  For a real treat, step up to Duckhorn’s Three Palm Vineyard Merlot. 

Decoy Merlot 2019 ($25). Made by Duckhorn, this easy, drinkable merlot with a broad California appellation has classic black cherry and plum flavors. 

Mt. Brave Napa Valley Merlot 2019 ($95).  Winemaker Chris Carpenter draws the best from the grapes grown in Mt. Veeder’s high elevations through rocky soils perched on steep slopes. Big in body, rich in style, it has dense blackberry and mineral notes. 

La Jota Napa Valley Merlot 2019 ($100). Grown in volcanic soils on Howell Mountain, this long-living giant has dense plum and raspberry flavors with floral aromas and herbal, mineral notes that are sure to evolve with a decade of aging. 

Markham Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot 2019 ($20). Fifteen percent of other red grapes round out this layered estate merlot. Generous plum and coffee aromas with jammy black cherry and plum flavors. Very drinkable and rich. We also liked Markham’s 2019 Yountville Ranch Merlot ($65), which is much more tannic and denser. 

Markham “The Character” Bordeaux Blend Napa Valley 2018 ($125). Merlot dominates this blend of all five noble Bordeaux grape varieties. It is a colossal wine with layers of rich plum, black cherry and black berry fruit with hints of herbs and fine tannins. It is aged 30 months in oak for complexity. 

J. Lohr Estates Los Osos Merlot 2019 ($15). This producer keeps its red wines lush and forward. The merlot is no exception. Opulent plum and floral aromas with bright raspberry, strawberry and blackberry flavors. J. Lohr recently was named one of the 2022 Top 100 Wineries by Wine & Spirits Magazine. 

J.O. Sullivan Founder’s Reserve Merlot 2019 ($280). Yeah, we know you won’t be buying this by the case but the wine demonstrates what can be done with merlot when left in the right hands. Very complex, textured and expressive. Cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc is blended with the merlot to create a world-class wine. Aged 22 months in new French oak.  

Rutherford Hill Napa Valley Merlot 2019 ($30). Easy drinking but subtly complex, this wine has lush plum and kirsch notes, long finish and velvet tannins. 

 Wine picks 

Tommasi Lugana Le Fornaci 2020 ($20).  You may not know the grape variety but you’re going to remember the wine. Made entirely from turbiana grapes grown in two vineyards on the southern shore of Lake Garda, this wine has elegance and length. Fragrant tropical fruit aromas and grapefruit, citrus flavors. 

Vina Robles Albarino Huerhuero Vineyard Paso Robles Albarino 2021 ($25). A grape indigenous to Spain, albarino is very fragrant with peach, melon and citrus notes. This is a delightful rendition for sipping or pairing with shrimp, oysters and other seafood dishes. 

Singer Baker Lane Estate Syrah 2019 ($95). One of the best American syrahs we have tasted in a long time, this Sonoma Coast wine has richness, body and forward fruit flavors. Intriguing spice notes. 

Coeur de Vigne Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($110). This Bordeaux-like blend from Napa Valley is a blockbuster.  Winemaker Jeff Cole has crafted a textured and rich wine with floral and blueberry aromas followed by layered dark fruit flavors and hint of mocha. 

Evening Land Vineyards Seven Springs Pinot Noir 2021 ($45). From the Eola-Amity Hills appellation in Oregon, this delightful gem has fresh red berry flavors with floral and earthy notes.  

Head High Sonoma County Zinfandel 2021 ($28). Reasonably priced for what you get, this zinfandel hits all the right notes: juicy, easy and ripe. Lots of blackberry flavors with an earthy tone and a hint of black pepper. 

Rombauer Zinfandel 2019 ($40).  Using grapes mostly from the Sierra Foothills, Rombauer has crafted a fruit-forward and well-structured zinfandel with cherry and vanilla aromas, jammy raspberry and plum flavors with soft tannins. 

Making wine is often a family affair

October 10, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Although it seems that more and more of the wine business is consolidating under large conglomerates, many independent family operations continue to thrive and some even maintain a national sales presence. “Family owned” still appears on many winery labels and conveys a readily identifiable “buck stops here” and “we made this with pride” mentality that appeals to many wine consumers.  

We have tasted wines from Landmark Vineyards over the years and consistently reported positive reviews. This producer of chardonnay and pinot noir is located in Kenwood, Sonoma County. In addition to modestly priced Overlook Chardonnay and Overlook Pinot Noir, Landmark produces a plethora of reserve and single vineyard chardonnays and pinot noirs. Landmark sources grapes from three of the cooler California counties: Sonoma, Monterey and Santa Barbara.   

Landmark was founded in 1974 by Damaris Deere Ford, the great-great-granddaughter of farm implement maker John Deere.  

We recently tasted some widely available Landmark wines and following are our impressions: 

Landmark Vineyards Overlook Chardonnay Sonoma County 2020 ($27). This is an appealing chardonnay offering a toasty oak nose and peach, pear citrus notes in the mouth. Well balanced. A great match with chicken and fish dishes. Landmark Vineyards Overlook Pinot Noir California 2019 ($27). A delicious blend of mostly Monterey County and Sonoma County fruit, aged in a mix of old and new French oak. Gamey, spicy, ripe cherry elements dominate in a very lovely drinkable pinot noir. Another family-owned Sonoma Valley winery that we recently experienced was Hamel Family Vineyards. The wines are characterized by the etching of a badger on their label which honors the founder’s family alma mater, the University of Wisconsin-Madison.  

Although on the higher end of the price spectrum, Hamel Family single-vineyard wines offer those who can afford them a very interesting tasting experience -- either now or up to at least 10 years. These wines are available on Lanmark’s web site. 

Hamel Family Vineyards Hamel Family Ranch Sonoma Valley 2018. Crafted from 87 percent cabernet sauvignon and 13 percent cabernet franc, this wine is aged in a mix of new and old French oak. Plum and cherry notes dominate in a subtle oak frame with an underlying minerality and soft tannins. This wine needs 3-5 years to begin to blossom.  

Hamel Family Vineyard Nuns Canyon Vineyard Moon Mountain District 2018. A mix of 74 percent cabernet sauvignon and 26 percent cabernet franc, the wine is also aged in a mix of new and old oak barrels. This offering presents bright cherry notes, with delicate spice and mineral elements along with more aggressive tannins. A candidate for extended aging.  

Wine picks 

Ponga Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2021 ($15). We’ve enjoyed this New Zealand wine in the past and the current vintage is no exception. Refreshing notes of herbs and freshly cut grass blend with mouth-watering grapefruit flavors and scents to create and great package. VDR Very Dark Red Proprietary Red Blend Monterey County 2020 ($25). This is a non-standard, delicious blend of petite verdot and petite sirah. Oodles of berry fruits, black cherry and a hint of mocha and cedar. Bold but smooth without overpowering. Fantastic!  

Chalk Hill Chardonnay Estate 2020 ($45). A top shelf chardonnay sporting an elegant lemony toasty oak nose with lemony baked apple flavors in a lovely oak frame. Mouth coating viscosity for a long finish.  

Game Box Pinot Grigio California 2020 ($25/ 3-liter box). Don’t look now, but box wines are rapidly climbing in quality and popularity. We drank this bargain wine over a two-week period and enjoyed every sip. The blend is 77 percent pinot grigio and 23 percent french colombard 

La Miranda de Secastilla Garnacha Blanca Somontano DO 2020 ($16). A terrific bargain for this excellent white grenache from Spain. Apple and white plum notes create a very grapey refreshing wine with good balancing acidity. Chateau Mourgues Du Gres Galets Rosés Costiere de Nimes 2021 ($17). An artful blend of syrah and grenache with a dollop of mourvedre, this very fresh tasting rosé features fresh strawberry and cherry notes that are sure to please any rosé aficionado. 

Veramonte Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($12). Here’s a great deal from the Casablanca Valley region in Chile. Expressive lime, grapefruit and tangerine notes with crisp acidity. 

Dutcher Crossing Hidden Hill Vineyard Syrah 2016 ($45). It’s a good thing the producer let this bottle sit for a couple of years before releasing it. It’s a monster that could age another decade. The grapes come from an Alexander Vineyard about 900 feet in elevation. The syrah is dark in color, generous in ripe dark fruit aromas, rich in cassis, plum and black cherry flavors. Big tannins and hints of chocolate and herbs. 

Corvezzo Organic and Vegan Pinot Grigio 2020 ($13). It may be hard to grasp that a product that comes from grapes has animal byproducts. But egg whites, bone marrow and other byproducts are used at the end of vinification to fine sediments, cloudiness, yeast and other impurities. For vegans determined to avoid these, there are more vegan wines available. This one is a decent quaff with peach notes. The producer from the Veneto region of Italy also makes vegan prosecco. 

Smith-Madrone Napa Valley Chardonnay 2018 ($45).  This full-throttle chardonnay from the Spring Mountain District has a lot going on. Gold in color portends good things to come – and they do. Youthful stone-fruit, lemon and tropical fruit notes with crisp acidity and supple finish. 

Emeritus Vineyards La Combette Pinot Noir 2018 ($110). Hardly your simple California pinot noir, this blockbuster from Hallberg Rance in the Russian River Valley draws grapes from a single clone. Winemaker David Lattin has crafted a complex and layered wine that still retains a Burgundian elegance. Earthy, forest-floor and savory spice add intrigue to the black cherry and blueberry notes. 

Drouhin making outstanding wines in the heart of Burgundy

October 3, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Navigating the cellars of Maison Joseph Drouhin in Beaune, France, is a walk through history. Once a Roman road, the below-ground cellars is actually a patchwork of four properties linked by doors and passageways just below the brick streets of this enchanting, walled village that serves as the capital of Burgundy. At the base of the cavern is a chamber with a herringbone ceiling that dates back to 4th Century Rome. Another cellar from a neighboring Collegiate Church Notre Dame was annexed in the 13th century. Oak barrels and 50,000 dust-covered bottles are sprinkled throughout the 2 ½ acres of caves.  

That they still exist is a miracle. 

The wine was confiscated by nobles during the French Revolution in the 1789. When World War II was declared and before Nazi troops arrived, Maurice Drouhin and his family walled off a room containing their most valuable wines. Concealed by cobwebs and dust, the wall was never discovered. Maurice, however, was not so fortunate. A member of the Resistance, he was eventually uncloaked and fled to the cellars where he escaped through what is now called the “freedom door.” 

“The Germans were told there were four doors. But there was a fifth one they didn’t know about,” said Cyril Ponelle, Drouhin’s brand ambassador, during our recent visit there. 

Maurice ran to the Hospice de Beaune not far away where nuns hid him until American troops liberated the city many months later. In exchange for his life, Drouhin gave the Hospice seven acres of vineyards in a handshake deal that exists today.  The profits from wines made from these vineyards are sold at an annual auction from which proceeds are used to preserve the iconic Hospice.  

Drouhin is well worth a visit. The cellars have been open to the public since 2012. Above grounds are several ancient wine presses dating back to 1570.  

Drouhin isn’t the only producer with amazing caves underground or in the ramparts of this Roman city. Laid out in a circular style, narrow streets weave around a plethora of restaurants and shops. Bouchard, Louis Latour, Louis Jadot and others have offices and caves inside the walled city. 

But Drouhin’s 193 acres makes it one of the largest estates in Burgundy. More than 75 percent of its production is exported all over the world with the U.S. being its largest customer. The wines, ranging from the simple Macon-Villages to its grand cru, are relatively easy to find.  

A 24-year-old Robert Drouhin took over the operation from an ailing Maurice in 1957 and remains involved today. But Robert’s son Frederic is president and his other children are involved. Daughter Veronique established Domaine Drouhin in Oregon in the late 1980s and balances her time between the U.S. and France. 

The estate owns vineyards in the Cote de Beaune, Cote de Nuits, Cote Chalonnaise and Chablis. About half of its production are sourced from Drouhin estates. 

During our visit we tasted 17 chardonnays and burgundies from the 2017 through 2020 vintages. Hail and early rain destroyed much of the crop in 2021, but it appears the current 2022 crop has produced high quality fruit in large volume.  

Here are notes from some of our favorite wines: 

Maison Joseph Drouhin Meursault 2020. Fermented entirely in barrels, this chardonnay has a golden color with honey and classic hazelnut notes. Round and rich mouthfeel. 

Maison Joseph Drouhin Marquis de Laguiche Chassagne-Montrachet 2020. Maurice Drouhin acquired this 2-hectare parcel on a handshake from a war friend. Very elegant with subtle tropical fruit aromas, peach and citrus flavors. Long in the finish and silky, it will only get better with time. 

Maison Joseph Drouhin Clos du Mouches Blanc 2020.  Made since 1921, this premier cru has a full body with restrained pear and peach notes, hints of lemon and ginger.  

Maison Joseph Drouhin Corton-Charlemagne 2020. A grand cru, this chardonnay has immense concentration and balance. Full bodied with bold acidity but smooth mouthfeel. One of our favorites of the tasting.  

Maison Joseph Drouhin Volnay 2020. Elegant, black cherry flavors, violet aromas and a bright, young character. 

Maison Joseph Drouhin Vosne-Romanee 2020. More earthy with black pepper, ripe cherry and raspberry flavors, supple mouthfeel and a hint of spice. 

Maison Joseph Drouhin Gevry-Chambertin 2020.  Masculine in comparison, the pinot noir has more extracted blackberry and plum flavors with hints of forest floor and spice. 

Maison Joseph Drouhin Savigny-les-Beaune Clos de Godeaux 2019.  Not classified a cru, this interesting wine has supple tannins, a long finish, earthy tone, flowery aromas and currant, raspberry flavors.  

Maison Joseph Drouhin Clos de Vougeot 2018. A grand cru, this pinot noir has a lot of elegance with raspberry and cherry notes, an earthy mouthfeel and hints of spice and mushrooms. 

Shipping wines from Europe 

We’re reluctant to order wines from tasting rooms because, like most people, we get caught up in the moment and eventually regret our decision. The deal is rarely good on the West Coast because producers keep their tasting room prices high out of respect for their retail partners. That’s not necessarily the case in Europe. 

We shipped back a couple of cases we bought from the producer and saved about $15 on a $100 bottle. First, you save on the mark up from the wholesaler and retailer. Second, the 20 percent French tax is eliminated. Third, the dollar is currently on parity with the euro. Even with shipping costs of abot $200 a case, you save money. 

Many of these wines are hard if not impossible to find in the U.S. If you do find them, chances are you’ll have to pay shipping fees to get them to your house. 

Wine picks 

Chateau La Canorgue Luberon Rosé 2021 ($26) From the southern Rhone Valley, this simple but balanced rosé is a blend of syrah and grenache. Red fruit character. 

Alain Jaume Domaine Clos Sixte Lirac 2017 ($30). A blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre, this regular favorite of ours shows off generous, ripe black cherry and blackberry flavors with a sensuous kirsch and spice after taste. Smooth mouthfeel and long in the finish. 

E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Rouge 2019 ($18). One of our perennial favorites, this syrah-based gem has oodles of black fruit and spice with good acidity and balance.  We actually liked it better a day after it was opened. 

Climate changes impact French wine harvest

September 26, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

If in your journeys to France you have nurtured a rosé at an outdoor café on the Med or sipped a glass of champagne with foie gras, you understand first-hand what lures people to this epicurean mecca. There are few places that have such a grip on us no matter how many times we go. So, when there is talk about how climate change is going to impact our favorite wines, we take note. Wild fires in Bordeaux, hail in Burgundy, frost in Champagne and heat in Provence are rattling the nerves of French wine producers. 

In a recent visit to France, we heard from a number of producers who are reveling after a terrific 2022 harvest but who are looking to future years with concern over what rising temperatures and climatic events will mean. 

France’s annual temperature has increased 30 percent more than any European country over the last century. While warmer temperatures are welcomed by northern wine growers in Champagne, they are a challenge for those in southern regions such as Provence and Languedoc.  

Wine isn’t the only industry impacted by climate change. A poor mustard seed crop in Canada has led to a shortage of Dijon mustard. We saw empty store shelves as Burgundians hoarded their favorite condiment.  And, a locally favorite cheese called savers was in short supply because of a decimated crop of local grass that cows depend on for it. 

But it’s the wine that is causing the most stir. Ripe grapes have initiated earlier harvest times in almost every region – a full month earlier in parts of the Rhone Valley. Researchers are introducing new grape varieties and rootstocks that are drought resistant. Growers are looking for areas that aren’t so exposed to the sun while introducing shading measures to protect current vineyards from blazing heat. Growers are pruning later in the spring to delay bud break. Every counter-measure is on the table. 

But, for the moment, French winemakers are basking in the sun.  Warm temperatures are producing bumper crops across the country and most winemakers are pleased with the quality of the grapes. The 2022 wines will be superior. But we have to wonder what quality to expect if this heat continues to spike. 

Champagne, for instance, is unique because the underripe grapes in this northern region are ideal for this kind of wine. The region is prospering from riper grapes for now after a calamitous 2021 crop that suffereed a 60 percent crop loss from frost and rain.  This year the Comite Champagne set yields at the highest level in a decade and that will help restock reserves. However, the region’s hold on champagne may loosen if temperatures continue to ripen early. Already, the ideal conditions for champagne are shifting north to England, which is making sparkling wine as good as champagne. Will warmer temperatures eventually make Champagne a better region for still wine? 

Burgundy also suffered from frost and early summer rain in 2021.  At Maison Joseph Drouhin, yields were down 70 percent.  

“We used to pick the chardonnay first, then the pinot noir,” he said. “But it’s mixed now,” said brand ambassador Cyril Ponelle. 

Temperatures this season spiked to 102 degrees for several days – higher than any other year including the torrid 2003 vintage. Generally, Burgundy, a region that once had to add sugar to attain reasonable alcohol levels, is benefiting from warmer temperatures – for now.  

Acidity, normally a problem here, is much higher. We tasted fresh and balanced 2019 and 2020 chardonnays from northern regions, such as Auxey-Duresses and Marsannay, that in the past have been low in acidity. Pinot noirs from Pommard are rounder and less tannic. 

Ponelle said Drouhin is experimenting with syrah, a grape Domaine Ott is concerned about farther south in Provence. Jean-Francois Ott said he didn’t think he would be growing syrah in another 20 years. He has abandoned his ugni blanc and cabernet sauvignon and is experimenting with drought-resistant sangiovese and the Greek variety assyrtiko. 

Like others across France, Ott picked his grapes early to reduce alcohol levels and he is pruning more to delay bud break so that the grapes can retain acidity – important steps to retain freshness and character. 

Of the 2022 harvest, Ott said, “This is a tough one. It was dry until mid-August. Then we got big hail.”  

“It was the craziest vintage in the south of France,” he said. 

Nonetheless, 2022 looks like a decent crop to keep rosé fans well stocked next summer. 

Wines from the Rhone Valley are known for their high alcohol but warming temperatures may be giving them even more alcohol than producers want. This year, however, looks to be good. 

Grape growers are adjusting to the heat. At Chateau Beaucastel, they planted trees in the middle of vineyards after they learned the best crop was coming from a shady spot protected by mature trees. They also are spraying some vines with a film made of clay that protects grapes from sunburn and insects. 

While Beaucastel normally sees 24 inches of rain a year, it got only 8 inches in 2022. Vines here struggle through five feet of river rock called galets roules to find water, a challenge that benefits the wine’s flavors. Still, the vines need water above ground too. 

Growers are managing canopy differently to spare the grapes from harmful rays in the most crucial periods of the harvest. Grapes in some places are picked at night or early in the morning to preserve the acidity that plays a crucial role in a wine’s balance.   

What does all this mean to the wine? A lot, but not all of it is bad. 

For starters, American palates have bonded with high-alcohol, extracted and jammier red wines that come from riper, sugar-packed grapes. This style of wine is more pronounced in southern France. However, the best wines depend on balance between sugar and acidity. Acidity breaks down as grapes ripen and the red wines can take on a more raisin-like flavor. This could be a future problem in Burgundy and Languedoc.  

Producers are mitigating these problems by picking the grapes earlier. But that brings on new problems. Grapes picked too early often lose secondary compounds, such as the tannins which are important to the aging process.  

Wine producers across France are embracing organic and biodynamic farming. Said Ott, “If we don’t farm organically in the south of France, we are lazy.” However, some producers told us they had to spray for mildew in recent years because of the impact of late rains. Abandoning pesticides and herbicides in this climate is risky. 

In a future column, we’ll give you some snapshots of the great wines we tasted in our visit to France. 

Wine picks 

Suadela Cannonau di Sardegna DOC 2015 ($32).  Not every group of international friends can create a wine company that revolves around their common denominator: Italy. The wines in this collection are from all over Italy, ranging from Tuscany to Piedmont, and are put together by different winemakers. We enjoyed this cannonau – a relative of grenache – for its simple yet delicious red berry flavors. For depth, turn to Suadela’s montecucco sangiovese. 

Avalon California Red Blanc 2020 ($11).  All of Avalon’s wines are inexpensive. This red blend includes cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel and petite sirah.  Jammy blackberry and cherry flavors and smooth mouthfeel. 

Wines for fall barbecues

September 19, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

September is an odd month. The kids are back in school and our mind is focused on fall, yet the temperatures aren’t abating enough for us to break out a sweater. We can still go for an outdoor walk in shorts, the boat is still on the lift and there are plenty of warm days ahead to squeeze the last of summer.  

Think of September as a transition month when rosés and white wines are still in order, but you are inching closer to those sturdy red wines to put alongside a winter stew. Think light reds to warm up the palate. 

The first choice that comes to mind is beaujolais, a unique wine made from the gamay grape grown in southern Burgundy. While the burgundies grown north of this region are often expensive and serious, beaujolais is youthful and easy. Because gamay skins are thin, there is less tannin. But it has relatively high acidity to make it a versatile match to summer fare. It can even be chilled to provide relief to summer heat. 

Beaujolais owes its youthful appeal to carbonic maceration, which is used in this region more than anywhere else.  Whole grapes are fermented in a carbon dioxide environment before crushing. The juice is fermented while it’s still inside the grape and that gives beaujolais its fruity style.  Beaujolais nouveau is bottled about six weeks after the grapes are crushed. Although this preserves that young, vibrant fruit, nouveau is more of a gimmick than a serious wine. Consumers are wise to look instead at the cru beaujolais named after the villages where the grapes are grown. 

But beaujolais isn’t your only choice for summer-to-fall red wines. Syrah and grenache have the same quality. Spain, for instance, makes a ton of inexpensive but delicious garnacha (grenache) that is a perfect match to barbecued food. In Australia, they call the grape shiraz. 

If it’s a blend you want, Cotes du Rhone blends are dominated by syrah and grenache. You can find them under $20.  

Italy has a bounty of easy-to-drink red wines. Nero d’Avola from Sicily is an easy quaff as are dolcetto and barbera. Chianti is mostly light and delicious. 

Zinfandel is a popular barbecue wine and who doesn’t like pinot noir? However, both of these wines are often heady and complex. Pinot noir is prohibitively expensive too. 

There are plenty of alternatives to heavy wines like cabernet sauvignon and barolo. Here are a dozen red wine alternatives: 

Esporao Colheita 2018 ($18).  This simple, medium-bodied blend consists of alicante bouschet, touriga nacional, cabernet sauvignon, aragonez, and touriga franca. The grapes here are organically farmed and we appreciate that the producer has gone to a lighter, more environmentally conscious bottle weight. Expect ripe red fruit character with a dash of spice. 

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2017 ($20). This producer makes a number of outstanding chiantis. This is a reliable and well-priced wine that impresses us every year. Floral aromas with bright red berry fruit flavors. 

Famille Perrin Nature Cotes du Rhone 2019 ($15). Composed of grenache and syrah, this lively blend is pretty simple and recognized for its bright red fruit character.  

E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2017 ($18). We’ve followed this wine for decades. Always a great buy, it bursts with fresh black fruit on the nose and adds spice notes to the flavors. Elegant, yet complex enough to pit against pasta, pizza, burgers and similar food. Syrah dominates the blend. 

Qupé Central Coast Syrah 2019 ($20). Grenache, mourvedre, tempranillo and viognier is blended into this simple but delicious wine with bright, red fruit flavors. 

Valle Dell’Acate II Moro Nero d’Avola 2017 ($23). We loved this wine for its boldness. Made entirely from nero d’avola grapes, it has juicy blackberry and black cherry notes, a hint of anise and moderate tannins to make it a good match for meat. It’s a nice balance between power and elegance. 

Cantine Ermes Epicentro Nero D’Avola Riserva Sicily DOC 2019 ($15). Plenty of plum and cherry fruit with a hint of chocolate. Big and rich and an outstanding value. 

Georges Duboeuf Moulin-a-Vent Beaujolais 2020 ($18).  Moulin-a-Vent is one of 10 crus in Beaujolais. Made with the same gamay grape, it has more structure and tension with the same bright red berry flavors. 

Henry Fessy Morgon Beaujolais ($27). Considered one of the region’s top producers, this Morgon cru has savory, blackberry and plum notes with a good dose of spice. It has the body to complement steaks and other grilled meats. 

Marchesi di Gresy Monte Aribaldo Dolcetto d’Alba DOC 2019 ($19). Made entirely of dolcetto grapes and aged in stainless steel, this delicious wine from Piedmonte has vibrant and fresh cherry and strawberry notes. 

Zenato Ripassa Valpolicella Superiore 2017 ($30). We are always thankful to find this wine in restaurants because it delivers a lot of quality for the money. Classified an amarone because the grapes are allowed to raisin on the vine before they are pressed, it has dense, ripe blackcurrant and blackberry flavors with a dash of spice. 

Paxton NOW Shiraz 2021 ($20). From McLaren Vale, “NOW” implies the optimum drinking time of this juicy, raspberry and blueberry flavored shiraz.   

Wine picks 

Ram’s Gate Bush Crispo Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018 ($75). We loved the youthful exuberance of this aromatic and complex pinot noir from the Russian River Valley. Cherry and floral aromas hand off to cherry, spice and herbal flavors.  

Singer Viognier 2021 ($65). A new product by Stephen Singer, former wine director of Chez Panisse, this viognier from Baker Lane Estate inn Sebastopol is a terrific debut. The generous aromas of this wine are classic for the grape variety. Peach flavors with good acidity. 

The overlooked wines of the Languedoc

September 12, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR  

There is no shortage of reviews and commentary about the wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy, Alsace and Champagne, but best of luck reading something about the wines from the Languedoc-Roussillon region. Although the wines from this vast region produce one out of three bottles made in France, it is often ignored in the grand discussion of French wines. Sometimes we get the feeling that the region is considered a step child of French wine, but those who are familiar with these wines appreciate not just their value but also their quality. 

It wasn’t always that way in this southwest corner of France where hillside vineyards mingle with scrubland and mountains. Until the last few decades, Languedoc-Roussillon was known for its plonk wine, sweet dessert wines and rosé.  

We recognized the evolution of the red blends in a recent tasting of the top producers. The red wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon are some of the best kept secrets in wine today. So, why aren’t we hearing more about them? 

Languedoc-Roussillon's past does not do it well. Its history is riddled with setbacks that start in the mid-13th century when France conquered what is now Roussillon. For a long time – even now in some circles – Roussillon is more like Spain than France because of its Catalonia heritage. Because it represents only 10 percent of the wines from the region, the focus has been more on Languedoc. Although Languedoc’s rosé is commonly found in the U.S., red wines make up 60 percent of the region’s production and they are the hardest to find. 

Its image problems were compounded when it was one of the first regions to be devastated by the root louse phylloxera.  As French scientists rushed to find a cure, they experimented with grafting American rootstock to Languedoc vines. Although this solution eventually saved France, the grafted vines struggled to grow in Languedoc’s limestone soils. Producers, nearing bankruptcy, imported juice from Algeria and Spain and raised yields from dying vines. The 19th century was not kind to Languedoc producers. 

The region languished in the international market until the Languedoc appellation d’origine controlee was created in 2007. Under AOC regulations, quality slowly improved as top producers such as Gerard Bertrand concentrated on bringing world recognition to the region’s wines. They lowered yields, introduced biodynamic farming in a big way, moderated oak usage and improved their winemaking. Today, about 16 percent of the wines are grouped in 23 AOCs or AOPs. Those that don’t qualify are grouped under Indication Geographique Protegee, which allows for more grape varieties than the indigenous syrah, grenache, cinsault, carignan and mourvedre.  

Climate and soil are as diverse as the culture and language. Those regions along the Mediterranean are blessed with a maritime climate, for instance, while grapes in hillside vineyards struggle to ripen. In general, the summers are hot and long, the rainfall scarce and the tramotane winds fierce. High temperatures and little rain lead to wines with high alcohol and often low acidity, which summarizes the challenge here. 

Cooperatives, which reduce expenses by using one winery amongst several growers, account for more than 70 percent of the wine. Growers know how to produce good grapes, but may have no idea how a wine is made. The absence of that connection often results in a wine that pleases neither the grower nor the winemaker. Slowly, the best producers are leaving co-ops. It is the right step to raising the bar. 

The draw for wine consumers is that there is a wine for just about everyone and at a range of prices. But those who stop at the simplified AOCs grown in the hot scrubland will miss out on the complexity of red wines grown in the hillside and coastal sub-appellations. 

Most of the wines here are blends of grenache, cinsault, syrah, mourvedre or carignan because the whole is usually better than the parts. What one grape variety lacks in color, another lacks in acidity. That said, many producers are making wines dominated by either syrah or carignan. It is a stylistic approach that maximizes a vintage and a vineyard that we particularly enjoy. 

Bertrand’s approachable Chateau l’Hospitalet is a blend of syrah, grenache and mourvedre and it has incredible dimension and pure-fruit character.  Domaine Gauby’s blend of carignan, grenache and mourvedre is just a fun wine with generous aromas of red roses with deep cherry flavors and tantalizing hints of spice and herbs. 

But Jean Paul Rosset at Chateau de la Negly likes to focus on either one of two grape varieties. His 2018 La Clape D’Ancely is mostly mourvedre with a little grenache. His 2018 LaPorte is all syrah. Both were among the most impressive in our tasting.  

As an introduction to Languedoc, look for Chateau Bouisset “Cuvee Eugenie” La Clape and La Condamine Paulignan Minervois, which for $20 each deliver a lot of fresh fruit flavors.  

These top cuvees, not necessarily current vintages, range from $45 to more than $200: 

Gerard Bertrand l”Hospitalet La Clape Grand Vin 2008.  Generous floral aromas with ripe strawberry flavors and kirsch flavors with a hint of licorice. Syrah, grenache, mourvedre. 

Domaine La Tour Vielle Coilloure Puig Oriol 2017. Opulent aromas of lavender and roses, youthful cherry flavors, concentrated. Mostly  syrah with black grenache and carignan. 

Domaine Gauby Vieille Vignes Roussillon Rouge 2015. Very special wine with bright black cherry flavors, rose petal aroma and hints of coffee, black pepper. Smooth mouthfeel. Carignan, grenache, mourvedre.  

Gerard Bertrand La Forge Corbieres Rouge 2018. Carignan dominates this wine with a little syrah to soften it up. Assertive aromas of cloves and red fruit. Sweet cherry and cassis flavors. Soft tannins.  

Chateau de la Negly “L’Ancely La Clape” 2018. Made entirely from mourvedre grapes, this beautiful wine takes on a blue fruit character with hints of chocolate and mineral. 

Chateau de la Negly “La Porte du Ciel La Clape” 2018. Syrah is the dominant grape in this luxurious wine with huge aromas and extracted, ripe cherry flavors with hints of bourbon, licorice and vanilla. 

Clos des Truffiers Languedoc 2018. This syrah-based gem has blackberry and black currant flavors with hints of cocoa and spice. Earthy and lingering. 

Gerard Bertrand Minervois Clos d’Ora 2017. A giant in a class of its own, the Clos d’Ora is dark in color, dense in flavor yet enjoyable to drink now. Soft tannins, big aromas, red fruit and a hint of cocoa.  

Wine picks 

Sandy Giovese Vino Rosso Italy 3 Liter N/V ($32-36). Made from 87 percent sangiovese and 13 percent trebbiano grapes. Packaged in a 3-liter box that holds the equivalent of 4 bottles, this package creates 1/10 the carbon footprint of one glass bottle. It is a light and fruity red wine that is perfect for a crowd and should be served chilled. It will last in the refrigerator for a month after opening. 

Dows Late Bottled Vintage Porto 2016 ($26). One of the best values in port today in our opinion. Very bright with cherry and plum notes and a hint of licorice. Not too sweet, a delicious drink any time of year. Give it a little chill in the warmer months.  

Finding good, inexpensive wine not impossible

September 5, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Even with gas prices going down, inflation continues to challenge our pocketbooks. We’ve noticed price increases everywhere – grocery stores, restaurants, even the dry cleaners.  Not surprisingly, wine is not immune to price increases as the cost of glass, corks and shipping have gone up.  Fires in California make recent vintages hard to come by and with lower production comes higher prices. 

When we launched this wine column in the mid-1980s we often wrote about the best bargains under $10.  We couldn’t do that today. It’s hard to find bargains under $20. Those who have retreated to wine as a special occasion beverage may be able to spend more money, but those who drink wine regularly are looking for bargains more than ever. 

With that thought in mind, we visited a couple of wine stores in search of the low-priced wines that we have followed for decades. None of our choices come from Napa Valley where prices are driven by demand, reputation and the cost of real estate. Instead, the best deals come from Spain, Portugal, Italy and less known regions on the West Coast. 

Retasting these favorites gave us confidence that a consumer doesn’t have to spend $50 for a decent bottle of wine to drink with a plate of pasta, burgers or fish. Do we like those expensive wines? You bet. There’s nothing better than a full-bodied, rich and complex cabernet sauvignon to go with a juicy steak. But we can’t do that with any regularity in this economy. 

So, here’s a dozen inflation-busting wines that we think you would enjoy: 

Evodia Garnacha 2019 ($11).  We love this garnacha for the elegant label alone, but behind the label is a wonderfully delicious quaff. From steep slope vineyards in the Calatayud region of Spain, it has simple but lasting red fruit character. It would do well with pizza, pasta, burgers and other simple fare.  

 Brecca Garnacha 2016 ($18).  From the same region of Spain, this is full bodied and lush with violet aromas, ripe red berry and kirsch flavors with hints of spice. It’s big enough to pair with grilled meats. 

 Torres Gran Coronas Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($18). We’ve been tasting this wine since the early 1980s. Torres Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon was one of the first cases we bought then, but this simple version continues to be a great buy. Concentrated and ripe with blackberry flavors, spice and a hint of vanilla.  

 Marques de Caceres Rioja Reserva 2018 ($19).  Another good deal from Rioja, this tempranillo offers blackberry and cherry flavors with a soft mouthfeel and earthy finish. 

 Tribute Monterey County Chardonnay 2020 ($20). The inspiration of Chris Benziger, this robust chardonnay has ripe pear and Meyer lemon notes with hints of vanilla and crisp acidity. 

 Adega de Redondo Porta da Ravessa Special Edition White 2020 ($15).  Made in stainless-steel tanks and relatively low in alcohol, this crisp white wine is perfect for summer sipping. It has citrus and stone-fruit flavors. Made from verdehlo, arinto and antao vaz grapes.  

 Veramonte Organic Carmenere 2020 ($12). Bright red fruit characterize this simple but tasty treat from Chile. It’s a great barbecue wine.  

Orfila Estate Selection Mendoza Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($15). Argentina has some of the best bargains on the market, especially for malbec. But we were stunned by this full-body cabernet sauvignon. Lots of dark fruit flavors, a hint of tobacco and gritty tannins. 

Banfi La Pettegola Vermentino 2019 ($17). Vermentino is an underrated grape variety that consumers need to try. Like this version of Italy’s well-respected house of Banfi, it is simple yet elegant with crisp acidity to make it a versatile wine to go with food.   

McManis Family Vineyards Lodi Pinot Noir 2020 ($11). You will be hard pressed to find a better pinot noir at this price. Medium body with forward cherry and raspberry notes with a hint of vanilla.  

Avalon California Red Blanc 2020 ($11).  All of Avalon’s wines are inexpensive. This red blend includes cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel and petite sirah.  Jammy blackberry and cherry flavors and smooth mouthfeel. 

Corvezzo Pinot Grigio delle Venezie 2020 ($13). Generous tropical fruit aromas with flavors of stone fruit and pears. It’s a delicious accompaniment to fish. 

Wine picks 

Abbot’s Passage Points+Unknown 2018 ($60). This is an incredible, dense blend of 61 percent grenache, 25 percent mourvedre and 14 percent syrah.  Using grapes from the Steel Plow Vineyard at the foot of Sugarloaf Mountain in the Sonoma Valley, the producer delivers a little Old World and a lot of New World in this wine. Raspberry, lavender and dried herb aromas give way to a broad palate of blueberry and black cherry flavors.  

 DuMOL Highland Divide Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2019 ($69).  Winemaker and viticulturalist Andy Smith has two dozen small vineyards from which to draw fruit for his superb, small-production wines. This pinot noir leans on three estate vineyards which show off bright fruit character with richness and longevity. Aromas include raspberries and cranberries while the plate has vibrant black cherry flavors.  

 Cuvaison Coeurtina Chardonnay 2020 ($60). From Los Carneros, this supple and rich chardonnay has a luxurious mouthfeel with stone-fruit flavors, a hint of spice and a lingering finish.   

Valenti Enrico IV Contrada Santo Spirito Etna Bianco 2018 ($25). A fantastic, golden white wine made from the Sicilian indigenous carricante grape. The wine features a ripe rich floral nose with intriguing melon, peach and mineral notes. Very complex and enjoyable.  Ancient Peaks Sauvignon Blanc Paso Robles 2021 ($19).  Well priced, this sauvignon blanc sports melon and citrus notes with balanced acidity. A nice quaffer.             

Wines to keep the summer going

August 29, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

Labor Day weekend seems like the last gasp of summer, a too brief occasion that separates the carefree days of family vacation from the impending routine of getting the kids to school and settling into cooler months. However, it’s not quite time to put away the barbecue and enjoy the sizzle of the grill and the wines associated with it.

It seems like yesterday when we were excited about cleaning up the grill for the long Memorial Day weekend, the unofficial start of summer. Now, here we are, Labor Day, the unofficial end to summer. Still, there are plenty of warm days ahead of us, particularly for those who live in or who are visiting southern states.

We have many fond memories of the summer’s grilling experiences: the rosé that was perfect with a spicy pork tenderloin, the pinot noir that married so well with grilled salmon and the bold cabernet sauvignon that complemented the juicy tri-tip steak.

Grilling over charcoal or wood enhances the flavor of food whether it be fish or beef. These kinds of additional flavors call for a different approach to wines. For instance, a chardonnay that would be perfect with a delicate, panned-seared halibut might not do so well when you add smoke and a summer medley of grilled vegetables. Think fume blanc or a Sicilian grillo instead.

Pork ribs slathered in a ketchup-based sauce calls for a fruity zinfandel or syrah. Burgers don’t need a lot of heft in a wine, so a grenache or a tempranillo from Spain are perfect. Cotes du Rhone, our summer favorite, is a blend of grapes that provide the versatility to marry with beef, pork and even chicken.

If it’s fish you plan for the grill, consider a pinot noir with tuna and salmon. White fish suggests chardonnay, viognier or pinot grigio.

Here are wine suggestions to keep the summer going:

7 Deadly Zins Lodi Old Vines Zinfandel 2018 ($16). Jammy and ripe blackberry fruit flavors with a hint of spice and toffee make this full-body zinfandel a great match to ketchup-based sauces.

Rombauer Zinfandel California 2019 ($35). From a producer that is known for its Carneros chardonnay, Rombauer demonstrates its skill in the red wine arena. Classic California Zin with dominant mixed berry notes and a healthy dose of integrated oak. Give this a chill for summertime drinking.

Frank Family Zinfandel 2019 ($45). Blended with a dash of petite sirah, this perennial favorite is concentrated and shows floral aromas with lots of blackberry compote flavors. Hints of mocha and clove.

Bonterra The McNab Mendocino Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($60). We loved the luxurious feel of this easy-to-drink wine from Bonterra’s McNab Ranch Vineyard. The 20 percent petite sirah in the blend gives the wine lift. Blueberry and plum notes with hints of mocha, vanilla and leather. Get the steak ready.

Scheid Family Wines Metz Road Pinot Noir 2020 ($36). From a very cool climate vineyard near Pinnacles National Park in Monterey County. Very bright cranberry and cherry notes with a hint of cinnamon dominate the palate. Palate-cleansing acidity completes the well-priced package.

Robert Hall Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($20). We put this in a flight of expensive cabernets and few could pick it out for its price. Another great value from Paso Robles, it is blended with merlot, petite sirah and petit verdot. Lush, ripe plum and blackberry fruit flavors. Full bodied and with fine tannins.

Sebastiani Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($45). The forward, luscious fruit of this wine makes it an ideal match to barbecued meats. Cherry and strawberry notes with easy tannins and oak-inspired flavors of vanilla and chocolate.

Vuela de Familia Bastida Ribera de Duero 2020 ($18).  This tempranillo just reinforces why we all need to drink more Spanish wine. Not only does it have the forward blueberry, plum and spice we expect, it has great body and length. We couldn’t put it down.

J. Lohr Estate Flume Crossing Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($14). This is a beautifully lush and delicious sauvignon blanc with herbal and citrus aromas followed by tropical fruit flavors.

E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Rouge 2019 ($18). Aromatic blackberry and spice aromas with round dark fruit flavors and a dash of spice.

Tommasi Lugana Le Fornaci 2020 ($20). Tropical fruit and grapefruit notes with fresh acidity and faint minerality.

Darioush Napa Valley Viognier 2021 ($55). This delicious and special viognier has the classic aromatics of the Rhone version of this grape variety, but Darioush pumps in a lot more flavor.  Whole-cluster pressing and barrel fermentation give it a boost. Generous melon and citrus aromas are chased by rich stone-fruit flavors along a mineral frame.                                                                         

Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc Private Bin Marlborough 2021 ($16). A great example of the classic New Zealand sauvignon blanc style with grapefruit, mango and herbal notes. Thirst quenching acidity completes the package.  

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($32).  This beautiful sauvignon blanc, modeled after the Bordeaux blend, has 9 percent semillon and one percent sauvignon vert. That and the use of the musque clone combine to make a dense and rich wine with citrus notes and a good balance between acidity and soft mouthfeel.

Sonoma-Cutrer Les Pierres Chardonnay 2019 ($46). You are probably familiar with this producer’s regular and inexpensive chardonnay, but this special version uses only select grapes to make a much more concentrated and lusher chardonnay. Citrus and honeydew melon notes with oak-inspired hints of spice.

Wine picks

FEL Anderson Valley Pinot Gris 2021 ($32).  With only five months of aging before it is bottled, this delicious pinot gris retains the fresh acidity that makes for a terrific aperitif. Big aromas of pears and melon are chased by grapefruit and mineral flavors.

Alma Rosa La Encantada Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Blanc 2020 ($35). This silky and refreshing pinot blanc shows off floral aromas and peach, citrus flavors. You won’t be able to stop at one glass.

How to enjoy port in the summer

August 15, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

The outdoor temperature is 90 degrees, so what is there to sip on? Red Bordeaux is out. For some reason it never works in the summer. Is it the heat or humidity? Who knows? Just save it for a few more months and it will be the perfect choice on a cool autumn afternoon. A big California cabernet sauvignon? No, it just seems too much. Pinot noir can work but give it a chill to bring out the fruit. You can always open up a rose and it goes with array of foods and chilled it makes a nice stand-alone beverage.  

Next week we’ll have a bevy of red wines to enjoy in warm weather. But today we’re here to make the case for port, the fortified and sweetish wine from the Douro Valley in Portugal. Leave your vintage ports aside, if you are fortunate enough to have them, and look for the tawny ports produced by most port producers.  

Tawny ports are aged in large oak barrels, which expedites the aging and oxidative process and turns the bright red colors to a tawny brown. It also creates mature, nutty and sherry-like characteristics.  

We recently tasted four tawny ports from two of our favorite port producers: Grahams and Dow. Both are owned by the Symington Family Estates, arguably the most prestigious port producer in the Douro Valley.  

Dow has a reputation for producing a slightly drier style of port. But don’t kid yourself: these wines are still sweet, just not overly so.  

We tasted these wines over a 10-day period and could not detect any deterioration in either one. So, if you are intimidated by consuming a whole bottle of this 20 percent alcohol wine, don’t fret. Once the bottle is opened, store it in the refrigerator and it should stay fresh for a couple of weeks.  

Following are our tasting notes.  

Dow’s 10-Year-Old Tawny Port ($39). Bright cherry notes, vanilla and a slight hint of tobacco are all present in this very user-friendly fortified wine. According to Dow’s, the producer loses 25 percent of the wine during the aging process. Great to accompany with dessert, especially chocolate ones. During the warmer months serve this chilled between 50-60 degrees.  

Dow’s 20-Year-Old Tawny Port ($67). Here again a significant quantity – 35 percent -- of the wine disappears during the aging process. Some fresh fruit notes meld with dried fruit scents and flavors to produce a complex elixir that takes port to a whole new level. Elegant not overly sweet, this is a terrific wine for solo drinking with a light snack of cheese, nuts and dried fruit or as a dessert all by itself.  

Graham’s is Dow’s sister brand in the Symington Family Estate portfolio. We found the Graham’s to not reach the same intensity as the Dow’s, but it produced a very agreeable and drinkable tawny port.  

The Graham’s 10-Year-Old Tawny Port ($39) is offered in an attractive squat bottle and is sealed like the Dow’s bottle with an easily removable, resealable closure.  This port offers cherry notes with dark chocolate and dried fruit notes.  

We really enjoyed the Graham’s 20-Year-Old Tawny Port ($65). It offered an exquisite elegance and very smooth delivery. Nuts, dried fruit, and oloroso sherry elements dominated in a whole new step in port evolution.  

We also tasted a group of ports from Kopke, the oldest port wine house in Oporto. Our favorites of the group were the Kopke 20-Year-Old Tawny Port ($70), and the somewhat unique Kopke Colheita White Port 2003 ($85).  

The Kopke 20-year-old tasted and smelled of very deep ripe cherries with toffee notes. This classic profile was appeared sweeter than either the Dow’s or Graham’s.  

The Kopke Colheita white is made from indigenous, traditional white grapes from the Douro valley and was a new experience for us. Colheita means all of the grapes are from a single vintage and aged in oak barrels. The 2003 Kopke exhibited bitter orange rind, golden raisins and dried apricot notes and appeared on the sweeter side of most ports we have experienced.  According to Kopke some of their ports are available in ½ bottle sizes at lower prices. 

Wine picks 

Rocim Mariana White 2020 ($13). The indigenous antao vaz, arinto and alvarinho grapes go into this simple and bright white wine with tropical fruit notes and good minerality.  

Acumen Mountainside Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($35). Bigger than most sauvignon blancs, this refreshing version from the Farina Vineyard has lively citrus and melon notes with a mineral thread and balanced acidity 

Clockwise Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley 2021 ($30). This is a pretty bold and aggressive sauvignon blanc that we were drawn to glass after glass. Its appeal is due in part to the addition of the musque clone which provides brisk acidity and stone-fruit character. In addition, there are tropical fruit and mineral notes. 

WillaKenzie Estate Willamette Valley Chardonnay 2018 ($40).  We enjoyed the pure fruit character of this wine from the Yamill-Carlton AVA. It’s so different from most California chardonnays with its mineral, honeysuckle, citrus and some tropical fruit notes. Rich on the palate, the oak is restrained. 

It’s summer — drink roses all day

August 8, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

We don’t know about you, but the summer heat this year seems more oppressive than in previous years. It is not uncommon for temperatures above 90 degrees to push us indoors as if it was another round of COVID isolations to keep us captive. Even if it’s safer this time to venture outdoors, you don’t want to. 

The weather is unusually hot in France, too, but Parisians will not be deterred from flocking to Mediterranean beaches for vacation. In the next month, they will be on the beach and eventually at a café with a carafe of rosé.  

Staying hydrated during these hot months is important, especially if your job takes you outdoors or if you are committed to an outdoor exercise routine. Water is the best prevention for heat exhaustion, but in the evening – when it’s time to reward yourself for a productive day – it's time for a cool libation.  What works best at this time of the year is rosé. 

We’ve written about these refreshing elixirs many times. Throughout this summer we have tasted more rosés than ever. That’s because more producers are getting into the rosé market as sales of this wine group continue to grow.  It is a wine associated with summer like champagne is associated with the winter holidays. 

Here are several rosés we recently have tasted and enjoyed: 

Chateau de Manissy Tavel Cuvee des Lys Rosé 2021 ($16). We liked the mix of grape varieties in this wine because of its different profile.  Grenache gris, clairette, cinsault and syrah harmonize to create a wine that is abundant in strawberry and red berry flavors. 

Chateau Mourgues du Gres Galets Costieres de Nimes Rosé 2021 ($13). Grenache, syrah and mourvedre team up to offer a wine with raspberry and citrus notes. 

Alain Jaume Bellissime Cotes du Rhone Rosé 2021 ($18). Strawberry and varietal spice notes grace this wonderfully delicious blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre. 

Chateau des Ferrages Roumery Cotes de Provence Rosé 2021 ($21). This rosé leans more on cinsault with help from syrah, grenache, rolle and clairette. Elegant with notes of strawberries and citrus. 

MacRostie Winery & Vineyards Rosé of Pinot Noir 2021 ($30). Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen has created a relatively complex and layered rosé by combining a direct press and the traditional saignee method. Luxurious mouthfeel with forward, juicy red fruit character.  

Sonoma-Cutrer Rosé of Pinot Noir ($25).  Grapefruit and tangerine aromas with vibrant strawberry and citrus flavors. Good acidity. 

French Blue Bordeaux Rosé 2021 ($15). Cabernet franc and merlot go into this delightful wine from the Entre-Deux-Mers region of Bordeaux. Floral aromas and strawberry flavors.  

Fossil Point Grenache Rosé 2021 ($18). A little syrah and mourvedre give this delicious San Luis Obispo rosé some lift. Strawberry and grapefruit notes. 

St. Michelle Le Rosé 2021 ($26). Cabernet sauvignon and syrah go into this limited release from a Washington state powerhouse. Strawberry aromas with peach and citrus flavors. 

Ancient Peaks Rosé Paso Robles 2021 ($26). Strawberry and cherry notes dominate the flavor profile. An eminently quaffable rosé. 

Ehlers Sylviane Rosé 2021 ($38). The blend of this concentrated Napa Valley rosé is more Bordeaux-like with cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. Understated strawberry and stone fruit aromas blossom into tart red berry flavors. 

 Alma de Cattelya Rosé of Pinot Noir 2021 ($22). This brisk and fresh rosé from Sonoma County has effusive strawberry aromas and strawberry/raspberry flavors. 

Masseria Li Veli Torrerose Rosato Salento IGT 2021 ($15). From southern Italy’s Puglia region, this wine uses negroamaro grapes to provide a lively and brisk character. Citrus and red fruit flavors. 

Alma Rosa Sta. Rita Hills Vin Gris of Pinot Noir 2021 ($35). More serious than your average rosé, this one made from estate-grown pinot noir grapes is elegant with a nice mineral thread and delicate red fruit and citrus flavors. 

Scaia Rondinella Veneto IGT Rosato 2021 ($15). Made from estate-grown rondinella grapes, this unusual rosé from Italy has classic red fruit character, herbs and some citrus notes. 

Lynmar 

Looking for an escape from a hectic business life, Lynn and Anisya Fritz purchased Quail Hill Ranch in 1980. When Lynn sold Fritz Companies, a global logistics organization, he and his wife moved to Russian River Valley and turned their attention to the vineyard. Today they have several vineyards that comprise 80 acres of Lynmar Estate.  

Once a source for Matanzas Creek and Etude, the grapes now go into Lynmar’s own wines. 

Anisya said, “Lynmar’s singular business proposition is to make a limited production of finest quality wine and provide a meaningful direct-to-consumer experience that forms a genuine, long-standing relationship.” 

We enjoyed the 2018 Lynmar Quail Hill Vineyard Chardonnay ($63). Three clones of chardonnay give this wine a lot of breadth. Generous jasmine and citrus aromas with rich tropical fruit notes and a dash of spice.  

We also liked the 2018 Quail Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir ($71) made with no less than nine clones of pinot noir.  Blueberry and black cherry notes are accented by a hint of tea. 

Pete Soergel was recently promoted to director of winemaking and vineyards. He has been with Lynmar for the past decade. 

Wine picks 

McManis Family Vineyards River Junction Chardonnay 2021 ($11). Stone-fruit and banana notes dominate this buttery chardonnay.  Simple but well priced. We’ve seen it for $8 in some stores. 

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery Olivet Lane Vineyard Chardonnay 2019 ($50). From the Russian River Valley, this fresh chardonnay has broad notes of Meyer lemon, honeysuckle and apricots cast in a smooth, creamy texture. 

Brandlin Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($90). This well-respected producer is making excellent wines from high on the steep slopes of Mt. Veeder. Not surprising, the wines – this one is blended with petite verdot, cabernet franc and malbec – are dense and rich. Forward dark fruit flavors with layered notes of cassis, currants and olive. Big but soft tannins make it drinkable now but promises improvement with some age. 

Hamel understands volcanic soil better than most

August 1, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Wine producers are fond of saying the soil of their vineyards speak for their wines.  The adage is so worn out that we rarely report it. It would take a producer growing wines in the worst possible region to not say their wine is a result of the particular vineyard soil. How ever tired the line, there is truth that soil can make a difference. For instance, grapes grown in nutrient-rich clay soil will influence wine differently than grapes grown in iron-rich volcanic soils. 

Winemakers adjust to the soil they are given and that’s a herculean challenge for those producers stuck with volcanic soils. This is particularly the case in the Canary Islands where we recently visited to see vines barely peeking above dense, wind-swept volcanic rock. Coaxing vines to grow through rock requires patience. 

John Hamel II, managing director of winegrowing for Hamel Family Wines, understands volcanic soil as good as anyone. His family has been meeting the challenge since it opened in 2006.  Four vineyards, encompassing 80 acres, are planted in basalt, a byproduct of volcanic rock. The cabernet sauvignon and red blends reflect the struggle of these vines in producing dense, brawny wines. 

The family vineyards in east Sonoma Valley near Kenwood is similar to Howell Mountain and Stag’s Leap AVAs just across the Mayacamas Mountains. The volcanic soil here is also common in Sicily’s Mount Etna, Greece’s Santorini, Italy’s Campania, Australia’s Yarra Valley and Oregon’s Willamette Valley – regions known for some very interesting wines. 

Clay soils retain water, which keeps vines cool and allows for them to be grown in sunny areas. But volcanic soils produce concentrated wines that come from vineyard roots that struggle to grow along fissure lines in search of water. Although that sounds like an impossible challenge, producers such as Hamel embrace it.  

Hamel said the family has adopted a natural approach to farming. Although they irrigate young vines to get them established, eventually the roots must find their own water. Nearly 75 percent of Hamel vineyards are dry-farmed. That produces small grapes and low yields, but it also produces wines with deep concentration. 

The other factor in connecting to place is the adoption of biodynamic farming. They make their own compost, use homeopathic natural plants around the vineyards and let animals graze between vines. 

“We are trying to create harmony,” Hamel said. 

He said the soil has so much iron that placing a magnet next to it will make the soil dance.  

The result of the vine’s struggle to absorb iron and find water is evident in the three Hamel wines we tasted. The 2019 Hamel Isthmus -- a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot – has iron in the aromas and mineral in the flavors to augment the rich, black fruit character. The abundant rainfall between November and April made the vintage extraordinary.  

The 2018 vintage was cooler and wetter in early winter and spring, but that didn’t seem to hamper the Nuns Canyon Vineyard cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc blend we tasted.  Hamel said the roots follow the fissures in the basalt and dive deep for water. He said the soil gives the wine minerality, power and a specific signature. It has a lot of herbaceous character to add to the dark cherry flavors. 

Perhaps the giant of the lot is the 20xx Hamel Pamelita Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. Only 200 cases are made and it’s very pricey. 

Hamel doesn’t over-oak its wines and instead employs stainless steel and cement fermentation vessels. Hamel said they used large oak casks for the 2020 and 2021 vintages. 

These wines aren’t cheap but their prices reflect the same degree of quality that goes into similarly expensive wines from Napa Valley and Bordeaux. 

Stonestreet 

The changing climate around the world has forced grape growers into leaving their comfort zone in search of different grape varieties that will tolerate heat, experimenting with new viticultural practices and modifying how they make wine. It’s a revolutionary era that eventually will preserve the industry and introduce consumers to new wines. 

We recently interviewed Christopher Jackson, second-generation proprietor of Stonestreet Estate Winery, about how his family operation is adjusting. Jess Stonestreet Jackson and Barbara Banke launched the estate in 1995. 

Located on Alexander Mountain, the vineyards are facing difficult growing conditions even before a warming climate.  

He said in an email, “Over the last two decades, the extreme of winegrowing on the mountain has continued to grow in intensity. In 2004, recognizing the challenges in achieving physiological ripeness and high stress to the vineyards, we began implementing regenerative farming practices that could mitigate the growing intensity of conditions and foster resilience of the land and vines.” 

He said he has identified more rigorous rootstock and clone combinations to reduce the stress on the vines. But the producer also has planted drought-resistant varieties, such as assyrtiko, chenin blanc and malvasia blanca. How these grapes fit into future wines – as a blend or stand-alone – remains to be seen.  

With disappearing sources of water for irrigation. Stonestreet added reservoirs on the mountain to capture the rainwater. Since 2008, water use across Jackson Family wineries has been reduced 43 percent. 

Wine picks 

Chappellet Las Piedras Winemaker’s Blend 2019 ($85). The name behind this luxurious wine is winemaker Phillip Corallo-Titus. A blend of all five Bordeaux grape varieties, it has a firm structure but a rich mouthfeel. Blackberry and oak-inspired clove and vanilla notes with hints of anise and spice. 

Tenuta di Capezzana Villa di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2017 ($30). We always thought cabernet sauvignon was introduced to Tuscany in recent times, but in the 1500s, France Queen Catherine di Medici sent Bordeaux cuttings of the grape variety to Carmignano. Today is it has earned a place in most blends. Here cabernet sauvignon is 20 percent which gives lift to the sangiovese. Forward fruit flavors of black cherries and plums with hints of tobacco, spice and vanilla. Very easy and enjoyable quaff. 

Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2018 ($30). Best consumed now, this blend consists of sangiovese, colorino, canaiolo and a bit of merlot. Dark in color and generous in aroma, it has plum, black cherry flavors with a hint of chocolate.  

Wines from Italy’s Calabria area

July 16, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

White wine consumers are divided between those who love oak and those who hate it.  Although a listing of top white wines sold in the U.S. is surprisingly topped by moscato, number two is chardonnay. This is where the discord begins. Many current wine lovers were raised during the 1990s and 2000s where a distressingly high proportion of chardonnay came with a strong dollop of oak courtesy of oak barrel aging. Some winemakers also used an array of oak supplements such as oak barrel staves, oak chips and even oak powder to mimic the flavors imparted by expensive oak barrels. 

Today some consumers are moving away from oaks pervasive influence on white wines and seeking alternatives. A strong rise in interest in pinot grigio and pinot gris points to this shift. However, for all its popularity pinot grigio tends to offer a pleasant but pretty simplistic experience. So, what is an unoaked white wine lovers to do?  

A recent tasting of Calabrian white wines gave us some insight into alternatives. Calabria is located on the western coast of the lower portion of the famous boot and surrounds the city of Naples. Home to the currently dormant Mt. Vesuvius, much of the soil tends to be volcanic in nature.  

The region produces three white wines made from indigenous white grapes: falanghina, greco 

 and fiano. These wines offer an interesting and complex drinking experience for those willing to seek them out. Prices are a bit higher than many pinot grigios, which seem to have become commoditized, and can be found on retail shelves in the $20 to $30 range.  

We tasted six Calabrian white wines recently, three from Feudi di San Gregorio. Feudi di San Gregorio, a leading red and white wine producer in Campania, crafts wines from local indigenous grapes in their newish ultra-modern facility.  

All three of these white wines were terrific and surprisingly presented similar taste profiles. They were fermented and aged in stainless steel, eliminating any oak influences and offering clean citrusy notes, a streak of minerality and ample palate-cleansing acidity.  

The Feudi di Gregorio Greco di Tufo 2020 ($28) and Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino 2019 ($28) were a bit superior over the more pedestrian Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina 2020 ($23). The Greco di Tufo presented lemon notes, a pleasant floral element and a soft presence in the mouth. The Fiano di Avellino offered lemon and orange notes with a hint of nuts and a creamy finish.  

We also tasted the Guido Marsella Fiano di Avellino 2019 ($30), which along with the Petilla Fiano di Avellino 2020 ($20), were the two biggest of the wines we tasted.  

The Guido Marsella was soft and round with pear, citrus notes and a hint of olive that made this wine a very nice package. The Petilla presented a honied pear, melon flavor profile with a hint of smoke in the finish.  

We also sampled a Casa Comerci Refulu Greco Bianco Calabria IGT 2020 ($28) which tasted of honey, lemon and grapefruit and a slight floral note.  

Flora Springs 

We’ve been ardent fans of Napa Valley’s St. Supery Estate Winery over the past decades because of their high quality and easily accessible wines. St. Supery is known for its estate-grown sauvignon blanc and cabernet sauvignon.  

Founded by the Skalli family in the 1980s, they converted a former cattle ranch into vineyards and built a tasting room and winery. In 2015 the Skalli family sold their holdings to the French luxury brand Chanel, which also own significant wine holdings including Chateau Canon in St. Emilion, and Chateau Rauzan-Segla in Bordeaux.  

We recently tasted three new cabernet sauvignon-based releases from St. Supery and again we were impressed by their quality. Intense pure fruit abounds in these releases, all of which use only traditional Bordeaux varietals and 100 percent French oak aging with a minimum of 38 percent new barrels. St. Supery utilizes a generous oak barrel aging program. However, their wines are balanced with no overt woody character or excessive tannins.  

Although these wines are relatively pricey their quality on the pleasure meter makes them worth the tariff for those seeking a high-quality drinking experience. Pairing these wines with most steak house red meat offerings struck us as a perfect match.  

Following are our tasting notes.  

St. Supery Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Estate 2019 ($53). This well-made wine is 90 percent cabernet sauvignon with a soupcon of malbec, petite verdot and merlot. The wine exhibits a classic Napa Valley profile with ripe plum, berry and cherry notes. Very smooth with soft tannins.  

St. Supery Elu Napa Valley Estate 2017 ($93). Although this blend could be labelled cabernet sauvignon due to the percentage (77 percent) of this grape variety, St. Supery chose the proprietary name Elu. All Bordeaux varietals are included and present a delicious, smooth mélange of cassis and berries with a hint of coffee. Very soft and agreeable.  

St. Supery Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Dollarhide Vineyard 2017 ($115). We found this wine to present primarily intense black cherry notes with a hint of cedar. This wine is the least developed of the three and can definitely develop with at least five years of aging to show its best.  

Wine picks 

Ram’s Gate Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay 2019 ($70). Using a blend of musque and Robert Young clones, this Carneros chardonnay has a perfumy, melon nose and a rich texture. Only the Robert Young clone portion of the blend underwent malolatic fermentation to retain the purity of the musque clone portion.  Tropical fruit and honey flavors with a dash of spice. 

Stags’ Leap Chardonnay 2020 ($30). We liked the balance in this reasonably priced Napa Valley chardonnay. White peach aromas and crisp apple flavors with hints of vanilla and spice. 

FEL Anderson Valley Chardonnay 2020 ($34). A sister winery of Cliff Lede Vineyards, FEL makes consistently good chardonnay at a reasonable price. The cool climate of Anderson Valley keeps this version fresh and bright. There is no malolactic fermentation, which makes for a good match with food. Peach flavors abound. 

Fetzer California Chardonnay 2019 ($8). Ripe pear and apple notes with a hint of spice. 

What to consider if traveling to Napa Valley this year

July 11, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

More and more people are returning to travel now that the covid virus has abated somewhat. Those of us shuttered inside for months have moved travel plans off the back burner, but remaining cautious of flying to overseas destinations.  Both of us have encountered significant difficulties flying and cruising to foreign ports.

For many, the cautious plan is to stay within the United States where home is a few hours away. Unlike travel between the United States and Europe, you don’t need a negative covid test to board a plane home.

With that, California wine country is one of the first destinations wine enthusiasts will consider this summer. And for many of you, tourist-teeming Napa Valley first comes to mind. You may want reconsider.

First, staying in Napa Valley will not be cheap.  The best hotels are charging ridiculous prices – more than $1,000 a night – for luxury accommodations.  Farther afield you can find a room for under $300 but it may not be close to the vineyards or offer the amenities you desire. And in high season you aren’t going to be happy driving long distances and bumper-to-bumper to your hotel, especially if you have been drinking. Even the bed-and-breakfast accommodations can be expensive.

Second, sampling wine in beautiful tasting rooms is not inexpensive. If you’re dreaming of tasting a flight of your favorite luxury wine, expect to pay $50 to $100 a person.  Many tasting rooms apply that to purchases, but there are few values in Napa Valley. Prices of the best premium wines are often more than $100. Since visitors often ship home wines they love or join a wine club, a visit to Napa can become very expensive.

Third, Napa’s commonly traveled arteries, such as Route 29 and the Silverado Trail, are frustratingly congested in summer months.  Many of the popular sites are so commercial, buses are seen in their vast parking lots. Although they offer good introductions to winemaking, most veteran visitors prefer smaller operations that draw fewer people and make less commercial wine.  Many of these wineries are closed unless you call in advance for a reservation.

This is not to say Napa Valley is not a fun destination. It is the epicenter of California wine country and is home to some of this country’s most renown producers. Just visit with reasonable expectations, a lot of patience and a budget.

Alternatively, consider other wine destinations that aren’t as popular.  We love Santa Rita Hills and other parts of Santa Barbara County.  Los Olivos and Solvang are lovely towns close to great wineries and tasting rooms. Prices range from $800 at the beautiful Fess Parker Inn in Los Olivos to less than $300 at the Wine Country Inn in Solvang. Tasting rooms charge far less if anything at all.

Oregon is another option. Far behind Napa in tourism, there are fewer hotels from which to choose and the ones with the best locations are not luxurious. The Willamette Valley is sprawling, so grouping your winery visits requires a good map. Still, we have enjoyed this region for its laid-back, unpretentious character.

Oak barrels

One of us was doing a public wine tasting when the question arose about the origin of the best oak for wine barrels. France is generally considered the best source, but the participant wanted to know why. It was a very good question.

A couple of weeks ago we wrote about the techniques a winemaker uses to craft a specific style of chardonnay. The use of oak for fermentation and aging plays a significant role in adding complexity and texture to chardonnay, but it also adds a lot of secondary flavors such as clove, butterscotch, vanilla, toast and spice.

Winemakers have turned to several forests in France – Limousin, Troncais, Vosges, for instance – for centuries. Although there have been challenges to the title, no area has been able to reproduce the quality of the French forests. The reason? Soil.

Just like grapes are impacted by soil left behind by volcanoes, so are trees. The soil beneath the Troncais trees, for instance, is very poor. The trees grow slowly and struggle for water, thus producing a tight grain. This can change the flavor profile dramatically.

Producers have turned to other sources for their wood, partly because French oak costs more than $1,000 a barrel. Hungarian oak is being used more often and American oak is liked for its vanilla flavor. But American oak grown mostly in Missouri can be too aggressive and impart harsh tannins. In the end, France wins the day and the high cost of its wood is passed along to consumers.

How ever technical this all sounds, oak plays a crucial role in determining what wine you like. If you dislike the tannin that makes your mouth pucker, you don’t want a red wine that has been aged in oak for a couple of years. On the same hand, if you dislike the vanilla and spice flavors in chardonnay, you will want to look for unoaked chardonnays. As a winemaker once told us, who wants to pick splinters out of their mouths after drinking chardonnay?

Wine picks

We recently tasted two Sicilian nero d’avola red wines and once again were impressed with both their amazing quality and wallet-friendly prices.                                                                         

Nero D’Avola Feudo Desisa Vuaria Monreale DOC Sicily 2015 ($25). Despite 7 years in the bottle this nero d’avola exhibits fresh fruit flavors of pure cherry and plum with a hint of tobacco. A lovely wine at a reasonable price.                                                                                                              

Cantine Ermes Quattro Quarti Nero D’Avola Appassimento Sicilia DOC 2019 ($17). This is an amazing, consumer-friendly wine made from some partially dried and freshly picked nero d’avola grapes. Plum and dried cherry notes dominate with leather overtones. A great crowd-pleasing package.                                                                      

Turn to rose to ward off the summer heat

July 4, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

The current fascination by American wine consumers with summer rosé continues unabated. Virtually every wine producing country churns out oceans of rosé from an array of grape varieties.  

Most rosé is crafted from a limited amount of contact to red grapes skins. Some rosé is the result of the saignee process whereby the winemaker bleeds off some of the grape must from fermenting red wine to add concentration. Either way the result is usually a refreshing wine with brisk acidity and a color that can range from orange to salmon. The wine takes to an ice bucket with ease and can offset summer temperatures. Its versatility also makes it a good match to simple summer fare, such as fish, salad and grilled chicken. 

Because rosé is best consumed in its vibrant youth, consumers should ensure their purchases are from the 2020 and 2021 vintages.  

Although grenache, syrah and mourvedre characterize the popular rosés from Provence, other regions have adopted indigenous grape varieties. 

Here are some recommendations to ease the pain of summer heat: 

France 

“M” de Minuty Rosé 2021 ($27). Chateau Minuty produces several rosés in the Cotes de Provence. They range in style and expression, but this one is easy to find. A blend of grenache, cinsault, syrah and tibouren, it exudes sunshine. Bright citrus and red fruit flavors. We also like the 2021 Prestige Rosé ($35), which has a broader array of fruit flavors.                                                                                  

Whispering Angel Cotes de Provence 2021 ($25). This iconic rosé from Caves d’Esclans continues to impress vintage after vintage. It has good structure with brisk acidity and flavors of watermelon and pomegranate. Relatively easy to find, it remains one of our favorite rosés.                                          

Chateau des Ferrages Roumery Cotes de Provence Rosé 2020 ($20). A blend of cinsault, grenache, syrah and vermentino, this crisp wine has strawberry, peach and grapefruit notes. What is there not to like?  M Chapoutier Belleruche Cotes du Rhone Rosé 2021 ($15). Raspberry and citrus flavors dominate this delicious wine from the Rhone Valley.                                                                                                          

Domaine de CALA Rosé Classic 2021 ($18). This assortment of grape varieties leans on cinsault with help from grenache noir, syrah and rolle. Fresh and live red fruit and citrus character with good acidity. Chateau Bonnet Rosé 2020 ($18). An unusual blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and semillon, this Bordeaux rosé has stone fruit and grapefruit notes with a dash of citrus.                                                   Spain                                                                                                                                                        Beronia Rosé 2021 ($13). Made from garnacha grown in the Rioja region of Spain, this delightful wine has ripe cherry and strawberry flavors. Very floral bouquet.               

Bodegas Borsao Rosé 2020 ($10). Borsao does it again with a great value from Spain’s Campo de Borja region.  All garnacha, this wine has simple red fruit character and a hint of tangerine with refreshing acidity.                                                                                                                                                    United States                                                                                                                                                     Josh Cellars Rosé ($15). From a popular and ubiquitous producer, this fruity rosé is light is filled with strawberry and peach flavors. Good acidity but lush on the palate.                                                          

Decoy California Rosé 2020 ($20).  This is an interesting blend of syrah, vermentino, carignan, mourvedre and grenache.  Generous aromas of strawberries with juicy peach, citrus and melon flavors. Delicious.                                                                                                                                                                        

Bonterra Rosé 2021 ($16). This California producer is a pioneer in organic farming and proves that good wine can be made in environmentally conscious conditions. This grenache rosé, made mostly from organic sites in Mendocino, has bright acidity and abundant notes of grapefruit, watermelon, cherries and a bit of peach.   

Bouchaine Vin Gris of Pinot Noir 2021 ($29). We loved the aromatics of this delightful wine: strawberries and watermelon scents are chased by fresh stone fruit and melon flavors.                                                                                                                                                                            

H3 Horse Heaven Hills Rosé 2020 ($17). This Washington state rosé pulls a lot of Rhone-based grape varieties into its blend: syrah, cabernet, grenache, mourvedre, cinsault and counoise. Raspberry and peach dominate thepalate.                                                                                                                                                                         

Benziger Family Winery North Coast Rosé 2021 ($26). Sourcing grapes from North Coast AVA vineyards, winemaker Chris Benziger has created a certified sustainable wine with citrus and strawberry notes.        

EFFORT Grenache Rosé 2021 ($28).  The grapes are fermented entirely in concrete egg-shaped containers to preserve the fresh, savory flavors of this tasty treat. It has the body to go with a lot of food choices.                                                                                                                                                                       Italy                                                                                                                                                             

Pasqua 11 Minutes Odi et Amo Rosé Veneto IGT 2020 ($20). Mostly corvina with trebbiano, syrah and carmenere. “11” refers to the total amount of minutes that the grape skins stay in contact with the grape must after pressing. Herbal, grapefruit notes dominate with a hint of cherry and mild acidity.                     

Travaglianti Etna DOC Rosato 2020 ($30) is a pure delight. Made from one of our favorite Sicilian red grapes, nerello mascalese, this rosé presents ripe peach and cherry notes in a bold style. Great for pretty much any summer barbeque fare.                                                                                              Portugal                                                                                                                                                Monte Velho Rosé Alentejano 2021 ($10-12) this bargain priced rosé is crafted from the grapes touriga nacional, aragonez and a touch of syrah as well as several others. Pinkish orange in color, we tasted peach, berry and melon notes that created a simple but pleasant tasting experience.               

Herdade do Esporao Monte Velho 2021 ($7). We loved the abundant raspberry fruit in this simple, light wine from the Alentejo region. The blend consists of touriga nacional, aragonez, syrah, trincadeir and tinta caiada.                                                                                                                                          Australia                                                                                                                                               Yellowtail Rosé Southeastern Australia N/V ($6-8). If you are looking for a slightly sweeter version of rosé this bargain priced rosé is for you. Pretty simple fresh fruit notes try it on a hot summer day.    

Wine picks                                                                                                                                            Migration Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2019 ($42). Entirely barrel fermented and aged in 35 percent new French oak, this wine has a more oaky, extracted character. Barrel fermentation gives it a rich, creamy texture to add to the apple and peach notes. Vanilla and spice flavors are from the barrels.               

Chalk Hill Estate Bottled Chardonnay 2020 ($45). Chalk Hill is celebrating 50 years of winemaking and this wine shows why it is a label that has withstood the trials of change. It produces eight different chardonnays, several of which are from single vineyards. This flagship version from nine clones shows off pear and apple flavors with plenty of spice and oak-inspired vanilla. It has a creamy texture. 

Chardonnays that won’t break the bank

June 27, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

 Last week we wrote about expensive California chardonnays that are commonly buttery and rich. As promised, this week we offer some more reasonably priced chardonnays. 

Cost is often driven by location (Napa Valley being the most expensive), single vineyard sourcing and the use of expensive French barrels. Less expensive chardonnays are often blends from several regions and instead of using expensive French oak, producers add wood chips to the juice or ferment the wines in concrete or stainless-steel tanks. They may not have the complexity that come with oak-aged chardonnay but their simplicity can be their strength. 

Here are several we like: 

Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay 2021 ($18). We regularly point consumers to Wente if they ask for a “good, inexpensive chardonnay.” The Morning Fog consistently out-performs with its citrus and apple notes, minerality and natural acidity.  

Qupé Santa Maria Valley “Y” Block Chardonnay 2020 ($22). This reasonably priced, austere chardonnay out-delivers its price. The 4 percent viognier picks up the aromas. Pear and citrus notes.  

Diatom Santa Barbara County Chardonnay 2021 ($25). Citrus aromas and white peach flavors with a bit of salinity characterize this austere and sleek chardonnay.  

Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County Chardonnay 2020 ($26). Ripe apple aromas give way to green apple and ripe pear flavors with a remarkable minerality.  

C.K. Mondavi Family Chardonnay 2021 ($7). The price is not a typo.  Although not as rich or complex as the higher-priced chardonnays, it is a decent wine for the money. Fresh acidity and tropical fruit notes with a touch of residual sugar.  

Calera Central Coast Chardonnay 2019 ($26). This is a great value in quality chardonnay. Using grapes from the vast Central Coast – primarily Edna and Santa Maria valleys – the wine has a lot of energy with stone-fruit aromas with pear and lemon flavors.  Supple texture makes it a delight to drink and only 5 percent French oak keeps it more linear. It undergoes complete malolatic fermentation to give it that supple mouthfeel.  

Decoy California Chardonnay 2020 ($20). Using grapes from a variety of sources – mostly from Sonoma County -- this Duckhorn property has crafted a decent chardonnay for the price.  Fresh citrus and tropical fruit notes with a smooth mouthfeel and a hint of spice.  

Harken Chardonnay California 2020 ($15). This barrel fermented chardonnay is one of the best examples of this oaky style at this modest price point. Tropical fruit flavors are accented by buttery toasted oak notes in perfect balance.  

Cambria Estate Winery Katherine’s Vineyard Chardonnay 2020 ($22). The flagship chardonnay of this Santa Maria Valley producer, this is another great value in chardonnay. Barrell fermented, it has big oak flavors with hints of vanilla, caramel and crème brulee. On the palate, there are ripe apple notes and a hint of citrus.  

J. Lohr October Night Chardonnay 2020 ($25). J. Lohr is known for its opulent wines and this chardonnay is just that. From the Arroyo Seco AVA in Monterey County, it is very floral and rich with peach and spice flavors. The producer also makes a good Arroyo Vista Chardonnay for the same price that has pear and apricot flavors. It has more oak notes.  

Head High Sonoma County Chardonnay 2021 ($22). One of the best chardonnays we’ve tasted at this price, this wine from legend Bill Price has effusive apple and lemon aromas followed by broad tropical fruit and citrus flavors wrapped in a velvet body.  

 French burgundy 

Burgundy is known for its opulent, pricey and surreal chardonnays. But in satellite regions of the Maconnais and Cotes Chalonnaise, there are great values to be found. These wines are austere, lean and pure. Here are a few we recently tasted: 

Chateau Fuisse Pouilly-Fuise “Les Brules” 2019 ($45). Ripe apple and vanilla aromas, stone fruit flavors with hints of toasted oak and coconut. Good acidity and long in the finish. 

Arnaud Baillot Montagny Premier Cru 2019 ($35). Unfiltered and unfined, this bottle from the Chalonnaise exhibits a bit of cloudiness that for us portends good things to come. Loads of pure, virbrant tropical fruit and apple character. For the price, it’s hard to beat as long as you can handle some suspended particles. 

Henri Perrusset Macon-Villages 2019 ($18). Using native yeasts and drawing from vineyards grown in limestone, this gem has zest with crisp acidity and fresh fruit built on a mineral base.  

Louis Jadot Macon-Villages Chardonnay 2020 ($15). This historical producer, whose wines are ubiquitous in this country, deviates from others by using the grape variety on the label. It reminds consumers that chardonnay is the white grape of Burgundy. Simple and medium bodied, it has apple and citrus notes. Nice minerality.  

Cree Montagny 2018 ($15). This premier cru from the Cotes Chalonnaise far exceeds in price in quality. The chateau was purchased in 2015 by Ken and Grace Evanstad, founders of Domaine Serene in Oregon. Although Ken recently died, Grace continues to lead a team of winemakers to produce only top-quality wine. The chardonnay exhibits apple and citrus notes with a dash of melon. 

Domaine Alain Chavy Bourgogne Chardonnay 2019 ($28). Drawing rapes from yung vines planted in Puligny, Chavy delivers a great value. Fresh apple and citrus flavors, distinct minerality and balanced oak. 

Jean-Jaques Girard Sauvigny-les-Beaune 2018 ($54). About 85 percent of the wine from this region is red, but once in a while we come across a white that represents the same value in quality French burgundy. Apple and spice aromas with rich apple flavors and good minerality. 

Wine picks 

Sosi Charlie Smith Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($75). From the Moon Mountain District in Sonoma County, this gritty and muscular wine has great concentration, thanks in part from the vineyard which is perched 1,600 feet from the valley floor.  Black cherry and plum notes with hints of chocolate and pepper. 

Abbot’s Passage “The Traverse” Red Blend 2018 ($45). This Glen Ellen producer specializes in small-lots of red varietals. The Traverse is a Bordeaux blend of cabernet franc, merlot, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot.  The winemaker should be familiar by name to most of you: Katie Bundschu, who represents the 6th generation in her family to be involved in wine. The wine is delicious with red and dark berry flavors. 

Tribute Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($20). Winemaker Chris Benziger pays tribute to his multi-generational family with this outstanding value from three sources in San Benito County, Paso Robles and his San Lucas Vineyard near Monterey. Black berry and plum flavors with hints of tea, vanilla and dark chocolate. 

Stop bashing chardonnay

June 20, 2022

BY TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

We all love chardonnay. Admit it. Chardonnay is the most popular grape planted in the United States and it accounts for about one in five bottles of wine sold in the United States, yet oddly consumers don’t want to admit they like it.  

Winemakers also love to make it. They start with a blank slate, exploiting opportunities that are greater in number than those from other grape varieties. The choices explain why styles range from austere to buttery, oaky to unoaked, rich to lean. 

In spite of denials that wine enthusiasts prefer the lean style of French chablis, they are buying “butter bombs.” Some producers even label their wines “buttery” to attract these fans. This character is attained through a secondary fermentation process called malolatic fermentation, which converts the tart malo acids, like those found in apples, to lactic acids like those found in milk. Producers who choose to convert all of their wine into lactic acids generally get a richer, more buttery wine. Others prefer more balance by adding sulfites to stop the process. 

The roundness and creamy quality are also abetted by sur lies aging, or letting the wine rest on spent yeast cells. Those cells give a wine a yeasty, bread-like flavor but also enhance the mouthfeel. 

Where the grapes are grown can also influence a chardonnay’s personality. Those grow in cool climates tend to be fresh and crisp with mineral, stone fruit and apple notes. Those chardonnays made in warm climates, such as the Russian River Valley, are rich and buttery with tropical fruit flavors.  

Finally, the type of vessel use for fermentation and aging will have a profound impact on chardonnay’s personality. One aged in French oak, for instance, will be more complex – and more expensive because a barrel cost a winemaker more than $1,000.  Unoaked wines are fermented in stainless steel or concrete tanks. These wines are void of oak characteristics, such as vanilla and spice. 

Prices vary wildly for this grape variety. First and perhaps foremost, Napa Valley property is expensive and grapes there command a high price. It costs more than $6,000 to plant an acre of vines in Napa. A chardonnay from, say, Lodi will be considerably cheaper.  Also, chardonnays from a specific vineyard are considerably more expensive than blends made from several regions. 

Here are 10 luxury California chardonnays to tempt your palate – and your pocketbook. Don’t fret: next week we’ll have some bargain chardonnays from here and abroad. 

Kosta Browne Bootlegger’s Hill Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2018 ($165).  This luxurious wine defies the current model of over-oaked, extracted, creamy chardonnays that are popular in Russian River Valley. Instead, this single-vineyard wine has good acidity, leanness but depth and only moderate oak flavors. Fresh fruit character with grapefruit, pear and citrus notes. 

Chappellet Grower Collection El Novillero Chardonnay 2020 ($55). The vineyard for this wine is located on a windswept section of rocky Carneros benchland. The wine has generous tropical fruit aromas and concentrated pineapple and spice flavors. The entire wine undergoes malolactic fermentation to give it suppleness. 

MacRostie The Key Chardonnay 2019 ($70). Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen draws grapes from top vineyards, such as Olivet Lane and Bacigalupi, to make this textured, complex and rich cuvee. Pear and honey notes with a dash of citrus. 

Cattleya Cuvee Number Five Chardonnay 2020 ($55). Now in her fifth year with her brand, Bibiana Gonzalez Rave continues to make extraordinary chardonnays from the Sonoma Coast. The expressive aromas include ripe pears and Meyer lemon with a thread of salinity.  The flavors are complex and rich with apple and honeysuckle notes. 

Calera Mt. Harlan Chardonnay 2019 ($55). Sourcing grapes from a mountain, limestone-rich vineyard, Calera has a nicely balanced and barrel-fermented chardonnay. Aged 15 months in oak – 30 percent in French oak – it has vanilla flavors but it is not smothered in oak notes. Subtle aromas with white peach and citrus flavors and rich mouthfeel. 

Copain DuPratt Chardonnay 2018 ($55). This California producer makes a number of chardonnays but this one from Anderson Valley is luxurious.  It undergoes 100 percent barrel-fermentation and malolatic conversion, so there are oak notes and smooth mouthfeel. Apple and almond aromas with apple, citrus and mineral flavors. 

Darioush Napa Valley Chardonnay 2020 ($58). This is a full-bodied wine with juicy apple notes, soft mouthfeel and hints of stone fruit and almonds. 

Ram’s Gate Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay 2019 ($70). The Hyde Vineyard in Napa Valley graces the labels of a lot of respected producers, so you know you’re in for something special when you see it. Using a blend of musque and Robert Young clones, this Carneros chardonnay has a perfumy, melon nose and a rich texture. It underwent full malolactic fermentation.  Tropical fruit and honey flavors with a dash of spice. 

Mira Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay 2016 ($95). Also from the Hyde Vineyard, this big and full-body chardonnay undergoes full malolactic fermentation and is aged on its lees for 24 mouths to give it a rich, hedonistic mouthfeel. Complex, long in the finish and full of apple and peach flavors. 

Lucia Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay 2020 ($50). We like what Jeff Pisoni is doing with chardonnay. Although known more for his pinot noir, the two chardonnays he crafts has the right touch of oak. Pear and peach notes make this a delicious quaff. The Lucia Soberanes Vineyard Chardonnay ($65) is even more complex. 

Wine picks 

Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($36). Reasonably priced, this youthful cab has floral and herbal aromas with black cherry, red currant and olive flavors. 

FEL Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2020 ($42). Anderson Valley is getting a lot of attention lately – this delicious and youthful pinot noir explains why. Luscious but bright raspberry flavors with a touch of clove and red currants. 

The Mill Keeper Cabernet Sauvignon ($35). A project of third-generation vintner Tom Gamble, this wine draws from multiple vintages and is intended to assemble a blend of small, overlooked vineyards with the idea of preserving family-owned farms in Napa Valley.  The name is inspired by the mill keepers of the 1800s. Simple, delicious dark fruit flavors with a dash of spice. Tom’s grandfather farmed crops in Napa Valley in 1916. 

Treat dad to a nice wine

June 13, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

This Sunday is Father’s Day, a time for us to pay tribute to a significant person who shaped our lives. Not everyone has had a positive relationship with their father – some don’t even know who he is. But for those of us who cherish fond memories of times with dad, this is a good time to recognize how much he influenced you. 

The wine world is replete with father-son relationships – and many of them are rocky. Cesare Mondavi had to keep rival sons apart. Michel Chapoutier of the Rhone Valley and Angelo Gaja of Barbaresco upended their father’s winemaking philosophy and suffered paternal wrath despite their success. Barolo’s Elio Altare made so many changes he was cut out of his father’s will.  

But there have been as many positive transitions from father to son. Joseph Carr appreciated his father’s work ethic, so much so that he named his winery after his father Josh. Jerry Lohr’s family just released a premium wine in tribute of his 85th birthday. Georges and Daniel Daou’s fabulous “Soul of the Lion” is a tribute to their father.   

We have fond memories of Chris Bilbro, the brilliant winemaker behind Marietta Cellars in Sonoma County. Today, son Scot is leading Marietta; son Jake bought Limerick Lane winery in 2011. They never lose sight of their father’s inspiration. 

Not all success stories are made of male bonds. We remember meeting a very young Juliette Becot many years ago in Bordeaux. She had to compete with older brothers to prove to her father she was capable of making good wine. Eventually, her father, Gerard, gave in and bought her a chateau. He gave her a pair of boots and wished her good luck. She worked hard in those boots to prove herself and today she manages three properties, including her father’s St. Emillon Premier Grand Cru Classe location. The wine, graced by a pink foil at the top, is a testament to perseverance.  

And I would be remiss not mentioning Veronique Drouhin Boss and her brother Philippe who learned the trade from their father Robert of Maison Drouhin while growing up in Beaune. Today they are a team at the highly successful Domaine Drouhin in Oregon’s Willamette Valley.  

There are so many other successful stories of how fathers inspired their sons and daughters to follow in their footsteps in making wine. If you’re looking for something symbolic of your own relationship with your father, consider these extraordinary wines made with family love. 

J. Lohr Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($100). In honor of founder Jerry Lohr’s 85th birthday, the Lohr family has released this extraordinary blend of cabernet sauvignon, malbec and the unusual Saint Macaire.   Lohr was a leader in the Paso Robles region before he turned over the reins to his family and this wine is a fitting tribute to him. We met him decades ago and remember his passion for wine and the region.  For much less money, consider the impressive 2019 J. Lohr Pure Paso Proprietary Red Wine ($27), a delicious blend of cabernet sauvignon, petite sirah and malbec. It may not have the complexity of the Signature but dad won’t be unhappy. 

Baldacci Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon2018 ($110). Thomas Baldacci is the patriarch behind this family run winery in Stags Leap. Michael Baldacci is the winemaker. This wine is jam-packed with ripe plum and black currant flavors, a velvety mouthfeel and aromas of rosemary and ripe blackberries. The Baldacci Calistoga Cabernet Sauvignon for the same price is equally generous in fruit character but with more cherry and blueberry notes. These are very heady wines to complement dad’s big, juicy steak on the grill. 

DAOU Estate Soul of a Lion 2019 ($170).  Georges and Daniel Daou have a great appreciation for Father’s Day. The Daou brothers behind this label are releasing this wine in honor of their late father’s birthday. “Soul of the Lion” refers to him, an inspiration and driving force that saved the family from war in Lebanon. The Paso Robles blend is 78 percent cabernet sauvignon, 12 percent cabernet franc and 10 percent petit verdot.  Layers of fruit range from cherries to blackberries with hints of tobacco and anise. Full bodied with fine tannins and length. 

Josh Cellars Reserve Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($22). One of the best bargains in cabernets, this wine is rich and ripe with raspberry and black berry notes. 

Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red Lot 73 ($18). We’ve tasted this delicious zinfandel-blend for decades. Introduced in 1982, the wine has no particular vintage. Fruity, smooth, light on the tannin, it makes for a great match to barbecued foods. And, it can age. 

Chateau Joanin Becot Castsillon Cotes de Bordeaux 2018 ($25). This wine is made up of 75 percent merlot and 25 percent cabernet franc. Fresh red berry and red currant flavors with hints of herbs. 

If you are looking to make a statement and give something to dad he won’t forget, here are some other possibilities that don’t necessarily have paternal guidance: 

Calera Jensen Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019 ($105). It’s impossible not to get wrapped up in the luxurious character of this deliciously silky pinot noir from the Mt. Harlan appellation. The 40-year-old vines of this vineyard deliver a blend of depth and elegance with velvety red berry and black cherry flavors. 

Duckhorn Vineyards The Discussion Napa Valley Red Wine 2018 ($155). Looking for a way to open a discussion with dad? Give him this and say, “Dad, let’s have a discussion.” Cool.  A blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot, it has a lot of complexity. Generous black cherry and floral aromas with a waft of almonds and clove. The palate is juicy with ripe plum and blueberry flavors. Duckhorn has less expensive red wines that are equally noteworthy, especially the 2019 Napa Valley Merlot ($58). 

Chappellet Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($90). Blended with a bit of petit verdot, malbec and merlot, this concentrated giant is the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. Although it portends good things to come with age, it is showing well now.  Hedonistic texture with dark cherry and plum notes with hints of espresso and fresh herbs. 

J.O. Sullivan Founder’s Reserve Merlot 2019 ($280). Yeah, we know you won’t be buying this by the case but the wine demonstrates what can be done with merlot when left in the right hands. Very complex, textured and expressive. Cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc is blended with the merlot to create a world-class wine. Aged 22 months in new French oak. 

Wine picks 

Pazo de Lusco Albarino 2021 ($25). From the Rias Baixas region of northern Spain, this wine is delicious by itself with aromatics and acidity to foil the heat, but it’s a nice wine to serve with simple foods. Apple and pear notes. 

Tooth & Nail Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($26). The latest in wines with augmented reality labels, this wine has fruit-forward character.  One of four in a “Squad Series,” the label is that of a gritty survivalist. Download the app and watch the character come to life with her story. The producer surely hopes to enjoy the same success of 19 Crimes, whose augmented-reality labels have become party conversations. 

White treats for summer sipping

June 6, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

As temperatures warm, many of us favor white wine. It’s hard to find a substitute on a nice day on the patio or on the boat. White wine can be chilled, which is the perfect foil for warm temperatures.  

Chardonnay is the most widely planted grape variety in the world, so it isn’t a surprise that it’s also the most popular white wine in the United States. Sauvignon blanc is growing in popularity, but maybe this is the year to find something new. We know most of the grapes of California, but European wine growing regions offer unique varieties you may not have heard about. Take, for instance, grillo, marsanne and gruner veltliner.  

Although these grapes don’t have the cache of chardonnay, they are equally good companions to most summer foods. We also have found them to be better aperitifs than chardonnay because they generally don’t see any oak. 

As you stock your refrigerators with your usual plonk this summer, a whole world of wine awaits you. 

Here are a dozen unique wines to get you on a new path: 

Lucy Pico Blanco 2021 ($24). This among our favorite new wines this year. Although Monterey County hosts some of the greatest plantings of pinot gris, not much of it finds its way to local markets. In this wine pinot gris is blended with pinot blanc to make an exciting, aromatic and delicious white wine to complement a variety of food. White peach and honeysuckle are pronounced on the nose while citrus and ripe peach flavors dominate the palate. Brisk acidity but softness on the finish. 

Di Giovvanna Vurria Grillo 2020 ($20). We love Sicilian grillo. It’s sort of like chardonnay, sort of like pinot gris. Smooth mouthfeel with citrus, herbal aromas and peach-like flavors. A great match to seafood and chicken dishes off the grill. 

M. Chapoutier Belleruche Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2021 ($18). This is a wonderful blend of grenache blanc, roussanne, viognier, clairette and bourboulenc. We loved the apricot and fennel notes.  

M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers Blanc 2020 ($45). Marsanne is usually part of a blend in Rhone Valley wines, but in the hands of Michel Chapoutier it can stand on its own. Refreshing acidity and forward stone fruit flavors with a hint of almonds make it a nice foil to summer temperatures. 

Domaine Wachau Federspiel Terrassen Gruner Veltliner 2021 ($16). From Austria, this lively wine has green apple and herbal aromas with juicy apple and citrus flavors with a dash of minerality. Crisp acidity makes it a good match for grilled chicken or fish. 

Bonny Doon Picpoul Central Coast 2021 ($15), Blended with a little grenache blanc, this very tasty wine is a perfect fit for spring fare. Fermented in stainless steel, it has pure and refreshing pineapple and citrus character with what winemaker Randall Graham calls a “beeswax” scent. The source of the grapes is the Beeswax Vineyard. Of course.  

La Cana Rias Baixas Albarino 2020 ($19). From Northern Spain, albarinos have earned a place at the table. Usually medium bodied with refreshing acidity and a briny character, albarinos show off peach and pear notes. 

Flora Springs Soliloquy White Wine 2020 ($50). Always a treat for us to break into spring, this blend of sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and malvasia is unique. Citrusy and creamy in the mouth, it has peach and apricot flavors. 

Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo 2020 ($28). We marveled at the uniqueness of the perfect spring wine from the Campania region of Italy. Located near Mt. Vesuvius, this producer has several fascinating wines – the 2020 Falanghina ($23) and the 2019 Fiano di Avellino ($28) -- that we loved. But our favorite was the Greco di Tufo, a wine with delicate aromas, fresh acidity, stone-fruit and pear notes. 

Esporao Monte Velho White 2021 ($12). Frugal consumers should look to Portugal for some of the best bargains that routinely out deliver. This one from the Alentejo region is a blend of antao vaz, perrum and roupeiro – grape varieties you probably never heard but are common in this region. Tropical fruit flavors with hints of citrus and good acidity.  We also loved the Esporao Colheita made from antao vaz and viosinho vio grapes that sells for about the same price.  

Stammari Dalila Riserva Sicily 2020 ($20). This is a ridiculously great wine for summer sipping. A blend of grillo and viognier it has the aromatics of the later and the texture of the former. Luscious tropical fruit notes with apricots and peaches to boot. Simply delicious and soft much like you’d find in a pinot grigio. 

FEL Anderson Valley Pinot Gris 2021 ($32). Those of you who like pinot gris will certainly enjoy this beauty from the Anderson Valley. Citrus and stone fruit notes with a soft and yielding texture. 

Oregon month 

Pinot gris is more prevalent in Oregon than chardonnay, but it’s the latter that needs more consumer attention. Although planted since 1961, Oregon chardonnay struggles to get the same acclaim as California chardonnay. Yet it is often more austere, subtle and just as good. 

May was Oregon Wine Month, so we decided to recognize the occasion by tasting a number of chardonnays.  

Three we recently enjoyed was the Gran Moraine Yamill-Carlton Chardonnay 2018 ($45), a lush wine with tropical fruit notes and a nice coconut character, the Penner-Ash Willamette Valley Chardonnay 2019 ($45), which was more austere with lean apple notes and bright acidity, and the WillaKenzie Willamette Valley Chardonnay 2019 ($35), with its intense citrus aromas and mineral notes. 

Wine picks 

Frescobaldi Nipozzano Vecchie Viti Chiante Ruffina Riserva 2016 ($33). Part of the Frescobaldi family collection, this luscious sangiovese is fermented in cement vats and spends 24 months in oak barrels with another 3 months in bottle before being released. The result is a wine with generous floral, spice aromas with red berry flavors, concentrated balsamic and fine tannins. Well worth the price. 

Flowers Pietra Sea View Ridge Pinot Noir 2019 ($80).  From the Sonoma Coast, this beautifully textured pinot noir has alluring aromas of forest floor, spice and dark cherries followed by similar flavors, soft tannins and long finish. 

Cambria Julia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2020 ($25). This is a great value in the pinot noir field. Lots of extracted cherry flavors with pomegranate and spice aromas. Earthy feel with soft tannins and long finish. 

Great wines for the Memorial Day barbecue

May 23, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

If you haven’t yet cleaned out the grill, now is the time. Your family is expecting a great outdoor meal with the arrival of the busy Memorial Day weekend – the symbolic launch of summer. 

The holiday is one of our favorites because it puts us in a better mood. We’ve had enough rain to put spring to rest. The flowers will soon bloom and the grass will need cutting before you know it. Memorial Day is the starting gun for fun in the sun. We’re ready. 

Many of you will be having guests over for burgers, ribs, pulled pork or whatever fits on the grill or smoker. If wine is on your menu, you will want to look for versatile reds and whites that can complement a wide array of food.  

For whites, sauvignon blanc is a great choice because it has the freshness to serve well as an aperitif and has the acidity to pair with seasoned chicken and fish.  

For reds, we lean toward the lighter wines – beaujolais, syrah, grenache, tempranillo and sangiovese. Pinot noirs are great wines but they are expensive and best suited alongside elegant dinners. 

If you like sauvignon blanc, look for the 2020 Stags’ Leap Napa Valley ($32) for its minerality and stone fruit notes, or the 2021 Duckhorn Vineyards North Coast ($32) for the roundness and tropical fruit flavors that come from the addition of semillon.  

If you prefer the tangy sauvignon blancs from New Zealand, try the 2021 Ponga ($15). There are an abundance of lime and grapefruit notes in this wine from Marlborough.  

Chile also offers an alternative – the Cocha y Toro 2021 Grand Reserva Sauvignon Blanc ($15) is a great buy. 

Pinot gris is another alternative to the usual chardonnay and is reasonbably priced. We like Oregon’s Acrobat Pinot Gris ($15) for its delicious pear and peach flavors. Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio from Italy was rated as one of the best values in wine and is equally delicious. 

White wines are best for seafood and chicken, but look to red wine for the hamburgers, ribs, brats and most beef dishes. 

One wine that has become a perennial favorite of ours is the Borsao Tres Picos ($19) from the Campo de Borja region of Spain. Made entirely from garnacha grapes, the wine is loaded with forward, ripe blackberry and plum flavors – a good match to anything with ketchup on it. 

Another good choice from Spain is the 2017 Beronia Rioja Reserva ($27).  

Portugual is begging to be discovered for its red wine. We love the 2019 Vale do Bomfim ($13) from the Duoro Valley. It is a broad blend of tinta barroca, touriga franca, touriga nacional and tinto roriz. It has opulent, ripe plum and dark berry flavors to greet a big, fat hamburger. 

The sangioveses from Italy’s Chianti region offer the same ripe and forward flavors. Two wines we like are the 2018 Querciabella Chianti Classico ($33) with its red berry and spice flavors and the 2019 Cecchi Chianti Classico Storia di Famiglia ($27) with its supple black cherry flavors. 

Another wine we like from a different part of Italy is the 2019 Marchesi di Gresy Nebbiolo Martinenga Langhe ($26). Nebbiolo is a medium-body wine that offers lively, fresh strawberry and black cherry notes. 

There is a lot of grenache and syrah on the market to appeal to barbecue palates. Grenache is lighter and makes for a great aperitif too.  Qupe from Santa Barbara County makes a delicious grenache for $30 and a tasty 2019 syrah ($20) that is blended with mourvedre, viognier and tempranillo. 

Inexpensive zinfandel is easy to find on the market but for a little more complexity and power, try the Chappellet Las Piedras Napa Valley Zinfandel ($50). Tapping into old-vine Mt. Veeder fruit, this wine delivers ripe blackberry and plum notes that will do well against ribs, pulled pork and even steak. 

If steak is your choice for the grill, you can break the bank with an expensive cabernet sauvignon or reach for the 2020 Precision Bound Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($25), a reasonably priced wine with ripe plum and black cherry flavors. 

But if it’s just the two of you and you want a special night, try the 2019 Cliff Lede Napa Valley Stags Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon ($82). From the estate’s Poetry and Twin Peaks vineyards, this blend is rich and long in the finish with a velvet mouthfeel, ripe blackberry flavors, a touch of mineral and fine tannins. 

We also like the 2019 Benziger Family Winery Joaquin’s Red Blend ($70). Estate-grown zinfandel, grenache and petite sirah go into this deliciously ripe and broadly layered blend. Strawberry, blackberry and plum notes with a hint of chocolate and spice. 

Wine picks 

Chalk Hill Estate Chardonnay Chalk Hill Appellation 2019 ($45). This is a fruit-driven and unctuous fruit bomb featuring ripe tropical fruits and a luscious, honied component. Just enjoy this wine as a treat all by itself.  

Veramonte Carmenere Reserva Organic Colchagua 2020 ($12). If you favor the flavor profile of Beaujolais, then this bargain from Chile is for you. Very fresh cherry and raspberry fruit dominate in a straightforward uncomplicated package. We have often found this wine at single-digit prices.  

Ehlers Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Napa Valley 2018 ($90). This is a very complex yet drinkable wine. Deep red fruit flavors of plum, berry and cherry in a very soft elegant package. Ready to drink now but should age beautifully.  
 

The great wines of Chile

May 16, 2020

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 
 

The geography of Chile is truly unique among the family of nations. Squeezed between the towering Andes Mountains to the east and the frigid Pacific Ocean to the west, this pencil-shaped country spans about 2,700 miles north to south and has a width varying from about 10 to 220 miles. Climate varies from extremely arid hot desert in the north to a barren frigid landscape in the south, which is only 400 miles from Antarctica. In between these extremes lies the Central Zone where temperatures and rainfall are more moderate and is home to the majority of the 20 million Chileans and a thriving wine industry.  

Two of the most important wine growing regions in Chile are the Maipo Valley and Colchagua Valley. The Maipo Valley surrounds and extends to the south of Santiago; the Colchagua Valley lies about 80 miles south of Santiago and is the source of about 65 percent of Chilean cabernet sauvignon.  

Cabernet sauvignon – about 20 percent of the country’s vineyards -- is the most planted grape in Chile. Grapes have been planted on their own rootstock -- the late 19th century scourge of phylloxera was avoided largely due to Chile’s geographical isolation.  

Chile is known for providing an ocean of value-oriented red and white wines priced in the teens that offer outstanding values for cost-conscience consumers. Brands such as Concha y Toro and Santa Rita consistently market inexpensive, very drinkable table wines often sold for under $10. However, Chile has also produced mid-priced and ultra- premium wines that consumers are just starting to discover.  

We recently tasted six cabernet sauvignons priced $20 to $40 from these two growing areas and found a strong relationship between cost and perceived quality. Following are our impressions.  

From the Colchagua Valley, the 2018 Los Vascos Cromas Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon ($22) offered a pleasant fruity round wine with plum and cherry notes and a whiff of eucalyptus. It is a blend of 85 percent cabernet sauvignon, 10 percent syrah and 5 percent carmenere.  

From the Maipo Valley was the 2016 Echeverria Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon ($25). It is a blend of cabernet sauvignon (85 percent), syrah and carmenere grapes. A hint of bell pepper was present along with cherry and plum notes blend.  

Our favorite of the tasting was the 2017 Lazuli Cabernet Sauvignon ($45) from the Maipo Valley. It is made entirely from cabernet sauvignon grown on old vines 2,300 feet in the Andes Mountains. Ripe fruit notes are present with some spice notes in a very elegant smooth rich presentation. The quality is readily apparent.  

We also tasted the 2018 Miguel Torres Reserva Especial Cordillera Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo ($20), the 2018 Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Maquis Colchagua ($20) and the 2018 TerraNoble Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua ($20) all of which we found were very drinkable and for their price reasonable values. 

For a real treat from Chile, buy the 2015 Lapostolle la Parcelle 8 ($125), a true definition of the quality cabernet sauvignon that can come from a prized vineyard.  The vineyard, tucked in the Apalta Valley, is one of the oldest in Chile.  Intense aromas of dark fruit, spices and herbs are followed by black berry, plum and spice flavors. The tannins are soft and fine in this inaugural edition.  

Hirsch Vineyards 

Hirsch Vineyards is located in the Fort- Ross Seaview district of the Sonoma Coast wine growing district, a cool area only 3 miles from the cool Pacific Ocean. Pinot noir and chardonnay thrive here. Neighboring vineyards are owned by super star wineries Flowers, Martinelli and Marcassin, among others.  

Hugging the Pacific Coast at 1,500 feet elevation, these rolling hills once were covered by redwood trees. After the trees were harvested over the past 150 years, the bare soils eroded to the valleys below. Now, a thin layer of soil covers sandstone rocks and sand and clay subsoil. It’s an area of extremes with torrential rainfall during the fall and winter with almost 80 inches falling annually, and an arid span from April through October. In comparison, Maryland averages about 44 inches per year and the Florida receives 40-60 inches annually.  

Lurking thousands of feet below is the San Andreas fault where two tectonic plates are grinding against each other and occasionally unleashing chaotic earthquakes all along the California coast.  

David Hirsch planted the vineyards in 1980 and is recognized for championing the production of high-quality pinot noir in the area. Hirsch farms about 66 acres pinot noir and 4 acres of chardonnay grapes.  

Hirsch farms an amazing 60 discrete blocks of grapes with each block consisting of rootstocks that match the prevailing soil.  

We recently tasted several current vintage offerings from Hirsch and were very impressed with their individuality and quality. Following are our impressions.  

Hirsch Vineyards Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Estate 2020 ($65). A very expressive chardonnay featuring an opulent nose and flavor notes of apple and lemon with a medium bodied elegant cream like finish.  

Hirsch Vineyards Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast Bohan-Dillon 2019 ($35). A great entry point for this vineyard but be patient. We found cherry cola notes to dominate in a elegant presentation but sensed 2-4 years would add complexity and allow this wine to open up.  

Hirsch Vineyards Pinot Noir San Andreas Fault Estate 2019 ($60). A hint of wild cherries in the nose with ripe and wild cherry notes in the mouth in very smooth rich, and elegant presentation. A very complex and interesting pinot noir. 

Wine picks 

Chappellet Las Piedras Winemaker’s Blend 2019 ($85). The name behind this luxurious wine is winemaker Phillip Corallo-Titus. A blend of all five Bordeaux grape varieties, it has a firm structure but a rich mouthfeel. With blackberry and oak-inspired clove and vanilla notes with hints of anise and spice. 

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Stags Leap District 2019 ($82). From the estate’s Poetry and Twin Peaks vineyards, this wine – blended with a little merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot – is rich and long in the finish with a velvet mouthfeel, ripe blackberry flavors, a touch of mineral and fine tannins. 

Marchesi di Gresy Nebbiolo Martinenga Langhe DOC 2019 ($26). This producer has a couple of nebbiolos that are worthy of attention.  We liked this version for its spirited, fresh strawberry and black cherry notes. Medium in body, it will do well against pasta, burgers and other simple dishes. 

Trust your palate

May 9, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Even since wine critic Robert Parker Jr. popularized a 100-point rating system in the 1980s, consumers have been persuaded to buy a wine based on a numerical ranking. Parker wasn’t the only one to score wines, but he was the first to be associated with a 100-point scale. Today, it has become the standard for wine ratings. 

There are as many flaws -- or vagaries -- associated with scores. On behalf of the consumer, it is convenient to have someone plowing through a sea of wines and telling you which ones are the best. But palates vary. 

The most respected wine raters are unbiased in the sense of not being paid for a favorable rating and they are judging a wine based on how well it is made. But they are nonetheless human and subject to bias. Those of you who rely solely on scores need to understand that.  

A critic’s palate may not be your palate. Critics tend to like complex, tannic red wines meant to be aged, for instance, while you don’t plan to age the wine and want something softer, more accessible for tonight’s dinner. The critic may score a $100 cabernet sauvignon 95 points. You splurge based on the score and discover it’s not to your liking. We pour these heady wines to non-collectors and without exception find little appreciation for them. Palates accustomed to drinking Meomi pinot noir are not likely to enjoy an expensive great burgundy made from the same grape.  

Good ratings should first measure typicity -- whether the product typifies the region where it is grown and whether its character is a classic representative of what is expected from the region. But beyond that foundation comes the biases of a critic who may dislike, say, a rich and well-oaked chardonnay or a cheap box wine. 

Have you ever seen a wine rated 60 or even 70? We haven’t. In fact, a wine rated 85 is considered so average. This halo effect has had a profound impact on a producer’s wines. A wine rated 95 or above sells out; a wine rated below 90 points struggles in sales among consumers who value ratings. Yet they are still good wines. 

When Parker scored French wines below 90 points because they didn’t meet his standards, sales plummeted. The French changed their recipes to appeal more to Parker’s influential palate and guess what? Sales rose as the wines achieved 90-plus ratings. Yet it may be that 84-point wine that you like the most. 

Although Parker has retired, his journal The Wine Advocate is indisputably the most unbiased publication in the wine world. He takes no advertisements, unlike popular alternatives such as the Wine Spectator, nor does he sell wine such as the Wine Enthusiast.  You don’t have to wonder if a rating is influenced by financial gain. 

When you go into stores, such as Costco, are you influenced by shelf-talkers that hang from the shelves with high scores? Look carefully at them. Are they coming from reputable critics and are the ratings for that vintage – or is it a rating the producer got the previous year?  We have seen ratings for wines without any attribution that are highly disputable. 

There are a couple of alternatives to professional critics. Cellar Tracker, for instance, is an amalgamation of collectors who have carefully recorded their impressions of wines in their cellars. The Vivino phone app has 50 million users who can take a picture of a label and get access to critical reviews plus those of subscribers like them.  Although “like them” presumes all amateur palates are alike, that’s not the case. One person may give high marks to an oaky, buttery chardonnay, like Rombauer, you make prefer a more austere Macon-Villages chardonnay at half the price. 

What’s a wine buyer to do when faced with hundreds of choices for each grape variety? Finding the right salesperson is probably your best bet. If he or she steers you in the right direction a couple of times, then you know his or her palate complements yours.  If he doesn’t – and we have experienced this numerous times – you’re better off depending on yourself. You can do so by narrowing the field: oaked or unoaked wines, tannic or soft, red or white, forward fruit or more nuanced, zinfandel or merlot, California or Europe?  

We have friends who drink nothing but zinfandel blends from Cooper’s Hawk or La Crema pinot noir, or Ferrari-Carano sauvignon blanc. They feel safe with a wine they know they like, but they are also hopelessly trapped by not being more open to alternatives. 

Get out there and explore. You are the best judge of your palate. 

Affordable cabernets 

TerraNoble Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($20). We’ll be writing more about Chilean cabernets in the future, but for now set your sights on this gem from Colchagua region.  Bright red fruit flavors with intriguing waves of spice and dried herbs. Dusty tannins portend good things to come with a couple of years of cellaring, but it’s tasty darn good now. 

Smith & Hook Central Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($25).  Even this producer’s reserve cabernet sauvignon is a deal at $45. But this less expensive version, sourced from 5 sub-appellations, is richly textured for the price. Full-bodied with ripe blackberry, raspberry flavors and a dash of vanilla. 

Rodney Strong Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($23). Light in body but long in finish, this wine is delicious but not too serious. Dark fruit character with round mouthfeel. 

Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($15). What a deal! From Washington state, this wine is characterized by its simple and vibrant dark fruit flavors. 

Greenwing Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($30). This Washington state wine sources cabernet sauvignon and merlot from Red Mountain, Horse Heaven Hills and Walla Walla Valley. Good structure with fresh cherry aromas and plum, juicy cherry flavors. 

French Blue Bordeaux Rouge AOC 2019 ($15).  This simple but sturdy wine is a blend of 80 percent merlot and 20 percent cabernet sauvignon. Ripe red berry flavors with hints of vanilla and spice. 

The wines of Peay and Longevity

April 25, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Peay Vineyards runs counter to what many Americans look for when purchasing wine today. Many American consumers look for bold, extracted wines that don’t require much thought as to their flavor profile. Even Burgundy, the source of highly nuanced wines in the past, is now crafting bigger wines from the onery pinot noir grape, thanks to the impact of global warming. Tasting Peay wines is not for the faint hearted. These wines demand scrutiny and patience to unspool their charms

Peay is located in Northern Sonoma County only 4 miles from the frigid Pacific Ocean near the town of Annapolis, now home to about 400 souls. Grown on the edge of suitability for grape growing, this very cool climate region is oftentimes fog shrouded and produces distinctive, small production wines.   

Husband and wife team Nick Peay and Vanessa Wong and brother Andy Peay founded Peay Vineyards in 1998. Fifty-two acres are planted to pinot noir, chardonnay, syrah along with a micro-amount viognier and marsanne. Most releases are less than 100 cases.  

We recently tasted five Peay wines and were really impressed with their understated elegance as well as their thread of minerality.  

The Peay Estate Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2019 ($60) is not for lovers of the classic California tropical fruit, heavily oaked wines that dominate the market. Pear notes dominate in a subtle mineral-driven wine that will only get better over time.  

The Peay Estate Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2019 ($73) is another elegant, understated example of cool-climate fruit. Subtle cherry notes, soft tannins and a distinctive mineral streak are present in this wine that demands attention.  

True to the Peay estate style, the Peay Les Titans Estate Syrah 2018 ($70) displays berry notes with a classic dose of black pepper and minerality. It will definitely improve and blossom with time, but we enjoy it now.  

We also tasted two non-estate wines from Peay.  

The Peay Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2019 ($48) offered a very pronounced toasty oak nose and flavors of apple and melon.  

The Peay Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2019 ($48) was our favorite for immediate drinking with pleasant wild cherry elements, an interesting gaminess and a layer of spice.  

Both of these non- estate wines are drinking well now and can be enjoyed waiting for their estate wines to develop. 

Longevity wines https://longevitywines.com

We first met Phil Long of Longevity wines via Zoom a little more than a year ago. We profiled Phil and described his leadership among Black-owned wineries and tasted his recently released Longevity chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. Recently we caught up with Phil Long in person to taste his new Longevity releases as well as two new cabernet sauvignon offerings from Alexander and Napa Valleys.  

Affable as always Phil displayed an overall love of wine and enthusiastically described his wine journey. He described how “wine creates a sense of place and time…where you were.” 

Phil is enthusiastic about his relationship with wine industry giant Bronco Wine and its 45,000 acres of vineyards in California. They are the largest grape growers there.  

“Access to the largest spice rack, bucket of knowledge and experience” is how Phil summed up his experience with Bronco. All of the Longevity wines are sealed with a helix cork which doesn’t require a corkscrew and is easily resealable and won’t leak when stored on its side after opening.  

Phil and his 34-year-old son Phil Jr. are responsible for the blending of the Longevity and the Phil Long bottlings. They consult with Franzia’s grape growers on vineyard practices and harvesting decisions.  

The Longevity Debra’s Cuvee Rosé of Pinot Noir California 2021 ($14) is one of the first of the season’s rosés that we have tasted. It is made in a more mellow, lower-acid style that makes for easy quaffing and can take a chill in the summer. Citrus and strawberry elements are present with a slight floral note.  

The Longevity Cabernet Sauvignon California 2018 ($14) is another soft, round and accessible red wine that needed 20 minutes to blossom in the glass. Cherry and cassis dominate, just give this wine a few minutes to open-up and reveal its quality.  

The star of the show was the Longevity Chardonnay California 2019 ($14). This is a classic in your face California style of chardonnay with big abundant tropical fruit, melon and citrus notes. A healthy dose of sweet oak balances with the fruit and creates an amazing package for the price. Phil stated this is “my style of chardonnay”.  

Two new releases by Phil Long are the Phil Long Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2018 ($26) and the Phil Long Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($34). The Alexander Valley wine presents cherry and berry notes with a slight herbal note in a bright fruit package. A great price for the quality of the wine. The Napa Valley wine was soft and elegant with black cherry notes and a hint of cassis and also offers value.  

Wines that give back 

Stolpman Vineyards La Cuadrilla 2020 ($22). This tasty blend of syrah, grenache and sangiovese was brought to our attention by a reader. Thank you! The profits from this wine are given to the vineyard workers.  It has a youthful appeal with bright red berry and cranberry notes and a dash of white pepper. 

J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($60). Winemaker Steve Peck has given this premium wine the producer’s Midas touch. Forward fruit style but also with good depth and structure, it has black cherry and plum character. A little petit verdot was blended with the cab this year. For every bottle sold, $3 is donated to the National Breast Cancer Foundation. 

Alcohol levels have increased in wine

April 18, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

We recently were enjoying a bottle of Chalk Hill Estate Red, a delightfully rich blend of Bordeaux grapes, when the effect of alcohol began to hit us. Did we drink it too fast? Was it the lack of food? A quick look at the label gave us the obvious cause: 15.5 percent alcohol.

When we first wrote about wine in the 1980s, alcohol levels were generally 13 to 14 percent. Many wines, such as those from Germany, were far less alcoholic. In fact, French winemakers couldn’t get their grapes ripe enough and had to add sugar to unfermented grape must  – a process called chaptalization – just to reach 12 percent. Global warming makes the wine a different place today.

It’s not that higher alcohol is bad. Alcohol gives wine body, but your body isn’t going to tolerate a few glasses of these heady wines without some impact. There will be a big difference in a breathalyzer if you and your spouse split a bottle of wine with 16-17 percent alcohol. All of which makes it odd that at a time when consumers are encouraged to cut back on alcohol and when low alcohol wines are gaining traction that top producers are doubling down on high-alcohol wines.

So, why do California wines have higher, brain-numbing alcohol today? There are lots of reasons.

Alcohol starts with sugar. Once yeast is introduced, the sugar is converted to alcohol. The more sugar, the more alcohol. Sweet wines, such as moscato and German riesling, have lower alcohol because some of the sugar is not converted.

Grapes harvested early will contain less sugar, but today Napa growers are picking grapes later to achieve phenolic ripeness. Along with that comes more sugar. This is particularly the case with cabernet sauvignon, which is one of the last grapes typically harvested. This movement is readily seen in the Department of Agriculture’s annual grape crush reports. Since 1997, average sugar content in cabernet sauvignon never fell below 24 degrees Brix (a measure of sugar that equates to about 14.3 percent alcohol). In 2013, it hit a record 26.3 Brix, or about 15.6 percent alcohol. In 2018, it was a modest, average 25 percent.

Although winemakers are required to report the wine’s alcohol level on the label, they are allowed a one percent error margin. It is widely believed that alcohol is understated. Veteran winemaker Joel Aiken, whose Scattered Peak wines are around 14 percent alcohol, told us he privately tested the alcohol levels of many California cult wines and discovered that they were much higher than stated – as high as 16 percent.

A couple of things happened to launch this popular trend.

Global warming has some impact because warmer temperatures add more sugar to grapes, but more impactful is the location of vineyards. For instance, Central Valley has some of the highest temperatures in California and its heady zinfandels regularly hit 16-17 percent alcohol. Mendocino in northern California struggles for adequate sun. Other regions, such as the Sonoma Coast, are blessed with cooler nights and ocean breezes to give grapes a rest at night.

Also, in the mid-1980s, growers adopted Bordeaux standards and began to plant vines closer to together and on a trellising system that maximized ripeness.  However, the tannins were too aggressive, so California growers delayed harvesting to soften the wine. Adjustments have since been made, but the ripeness and the resulting alcohol remains.

More influential to this trend is a shift in style that was provoked – and still rewarded – by renown wine critics. Robert Parker Jr. in particular awarded high scores to showy wines with more alcohol, ripe fruit and subdued tannins. Consumers loved the more approachable style, so winemakers delivered. It wasn’t long before cult producers – Screaming Eagle, Colgin, Abreu, Harlan Estate and more – were getting 100-point scores from Parker and selling their low-production wines for $500 or more. This shift in alcohol levels and style applies mostly to red wines, pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon in particular.

Although their style means the wines don’t require years of aging to be enjoyed, there is debate over whether they are suitable for dinner. Tannins – which make the mouth pucker – aren’t easy to swallow in a cabernet sauvignon aperitif but they marry well with a juicy steak. An extracted California pinot noir makes for a better dessert by itself than a match to delicate sauces at a gourmet dinner. The poor food pairing comes from a lack of acidity, which is needed to offset fat and sweetness.

Europeans don’t care much for this style of wine, although many of them did succumb to Parker’s influence to achieve better scores.  We’ve noticed a widening gap between red and white wines from Burgundy versus those from California.

Said Daniel Daou of Daou Vineyards in Paso Robles, ““Asians and Europeans don’t like California wines – that’s a fact --because California wines don’t cut through the acidity of food. Jammy wines don’t do that.”

All of this should help guide you in choosing a wine. Know the alcohol levels in wine and assume it is understated before you embark on dinner out.  Understand the impact of this style of wine on the food you intend to serve. If your food has body – beef or a hearty stew, for instance -- your wine should have body. If, however, the food or sauce is delicate – think Dover sole or duck – look for a delicate wine. Wines with high alcohol and bold fruit are not delicate.

Wine picks

Jean Dauvissat Vendage Chablis 2018 ($28). Dauvissat makes some of the best, most exclusive chablis in France. This moderately priced version draws chardonnay from several parcels and shows a good balance between the classic minerality and a richness that defies the often-austere character of chablis. Apple and lemon notes.

Gary Farrell Olivet Lane Vineyard 2019 ($45).  From the Russian River Valley, this delicious and rich chardonnay unveils citrus and grapefruit aromas and stone-fruit flavors with a good dollop of toasty oak notes.

Cliff Lede Napa Valley Stags Leap District 2019 ($82). From the estate’s Poetry and Pike’s Peak vineyards, this wine – blended with a little merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot – is rich and long in the finish with a velvet mouthfeel, ripe blackberry flavors, a touch of mineral and fine tannins.

Great values from the Cotes du Rhone

April 2, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

We know how much our readers love values – wines that surpass their price in quality – so, this week we focus on the red wines of the Cotes du Rhone.  It is a region that produces easy-to-find wine ranging from $15 to a still moderate $40. 

One of the oldest wine regions in the world, the vast Cotes du Rhone Appellation d’Origine Controlee straddles the Rhone River. Here winemakers can choose from 21 different grape varieties to make red, white and rosé. Syrah, grenache and mourvedre dominate the red wines.  Farther to the north, the region relies more on syrah to make much more concentrated and complex wine. 

The simple Cotes du Rhones are fruity, accessible and versatile food matches that are priced under $20. Next up the ladder in quality are the Cotes du Rhone Villages that represent 95 communes. Grenache must be at least 50 percent of the blend. This AOC is surpassed by a Cotes du Rhone Villages named after a village – Rasteau being our favorite. Finally, the best is reserved for the crus classification. Seventeen crus are able to add their village to the label – but not necessarily “Cotes du Rhone.” Good examples of these wines are Cornas, Chateauneuf d Pape, Cote Rotie, Crozes-Hermitage, Gigondas, Saint-Joseph and Vacqueyras. These wines can range from $30 to $300. 

We often point new wine enthusiasts to this region because the wines are so great for the money. You can sip them, serve them with pizza and burgers, bring them to a party and even age them for a few years although most of them are best drunk young. 

Here are several we recently enjoyed: 

Cotes du Rhone 

Stephen Ogier Le Temps est Venu Cotes du Rhone 2019 ($23). We loved this earthy blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre for its intense red fruit character. From a highly respected producer, it shows off supple tannins and strawberry notes. One of our favorites in the tasting. 

Famille Perrin Nature Cotes du Rhone 2019 ($15). Composed of grenache and syrah, this lively blend is pretty simple and recognized for its bright red fruit character.  

E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2017 ($18). We’ve followed this wine for decades. Always a great buy, it bursts with fresh black fruit on the nose and adds spice notes to the flavors. Elegant, yet complex enough to pit against pasta, pizza, burgers and similar food. Syrah dominates the blend. 

Michel & Tina Gassier Cotes du Rhone 2019 ($16). Mourvedre and syrah augment this largely grenache-based blend of fresh fruit character. Aged in concrete containers, the fruit is pure and delicious with floral, blackberry and licorice aromas. In the mouth expect to find blackberry, black cherry and cassis notes with a dash of pepper and rosemary. 

Cellier des Dauphins Reserve Cotes du Rhone 2018 ($13). Lots of cherries and spice come from this blend of grenache and syrah. 

Chateau de Saint Cosme “Les Deux Albion” Cotes du Rhone 2018 ($17). Grenache, syrah and mourvedre usually go into this muscular wine with dark berry fruit, black pepper and herbs in the mix. 

Ferraton Pere & Fils Cotes-du-Rhone Samorens Rouge 2019 ($16). We loved this equal blend of grenache and syrah -- a nice soft approach to a hearty winter meal. It’s a great sipper but it is versatile enough to go with stews, chili, pasta and lamb. Ripe and juicy blackberry, raspberry notes with a hint of black licorice and dried rosemary.  

Domaine de la Janasse Reserve 2019.  This is a cauldron of beautiful syrah, grenache, carignan, cinsault and mourvedre. Herbal aromas are reminiscent of Provence. Red and dark berry flavors, dried herbs and easy tannins.  

Crus 

Domaine Vincent Paris “Granit 30” Cornas 2019 ($48).  Made from syrah and granite grapes, this well-structured gem has ripe black fruit and spicy aromas with sweet black cherry and blueberry flavors. Dusty tannins and a bit of garrigue and mineral make this a great wine for current drinking. 

Domaine Brusset Les Tavers Cairanne 2019 ($24). This concentrated wine from a producer who has been around since 1947 is a blend of grenache, syrah, cinsault and mourvedre. Aged mostly in tank, it maintains a fresh fruit style with soft tannins, cherry and cassis flavors with hints of black pepper. Great value. 

Maison Brotte La Marasque Gigondas 2018 ($22). This is a very reasonably priced blend of grenache and syrah from Gigondas. Spice notes are dominant with cherry and kirsch flavors and hints of vanilla and licorice. 

J.L. Chave Selection Offerus St. Joseph 2018 ($32).  Made entirely from syrah, this boisterous wine from one of the most reputable producers in northern Rhone is deep in color with cherry and blackberry notes, soft tannins and good concentration. It’s one of our favorite regions of the Rhone for wines that exceed their price in quality.  

Domaine de Durban Beaumes-de-Venise 2018 ($18).  Grenache, syrah and mourvedre make up this forward, ripe blend from the often-forgotten vineyards of Beaumes-de-Venise. Violet and herbal aromas give way to a bounty of raspberry and blackberry flavors. 

Domaine Santa Duc Les Aubes Vacqueyras 2019 ($30). Intense floral and herbal aromas followed by rich, slightly ripe raspberry and strawberry flavors. The composition is 80 percent grenache and 20 percent syrah. Great value. 

Rosés 

Famille Perrin Cotes du Rhone Reserve Rosé 2020 ($14). Cinsault, grenache, syrah and mourvedre work in tandem to create a flowery rosé with grapefruit, citrus and red berry fruit flavors. Great, delicious value. 

E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Reserve Rosé 2018 ($18). Peach and strawberry flavors dominate this hearty rosé. 

For something different, look to Austria

March 27, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Here’s a question for our wine loving friends: what country or wine region is the most underrated and unappreciated in the wine growing world?  

Arguments can be made for a number of locations. Greece? Sicily? Portugal? All reasonably answers. But we would add Austria. Specifically, Austrian red wines deserve a much greater share of attention.  

The grape zweigelt -- a varietal introduced in 1922 as the result of a cross between indigenous Austrian grapes blaufrankish and St. Laurent -- creates consumer-friendly wines that resemble beefed-up merlot. They are usually reasonably priced from $15 to $20 and can complement a wide range of foods, especially red meat dishes and bolder stews. Try it during the summer with barbecue.  

The star of the Austrian red wine show, though, is pinot noir. Pinot noir is a cool climate loving grape that thrives in the continental climate of Austria. Austria’s primary pinot noir growing areas are in the same longitude as the Cote D’Or in French Burgundy, the gold standard for this noble grape.  

We recently conducted a tasting of zweigelt and pinot noir from Austria, courtesy of Klaus Wittauer of Austrian wine importer KW Selections and distributor Tom Cox of Siema Wines.  

We have tasted many Austrian wines over the years but found it instructive to taste a selection to compare and contrast their qualities and characteristics. Before diving into the red wines, it should be noted that Austria produces some outstanding still and sparkling rosés.The Mittelbach Zweigelt Rosé 2020 ($14) displayed a beautiful pink vibrant color and delicious refreshing notes of strawberry and floral notes in the nose and mouth.  

The Leo Hillinger Secco Rosé N/V ($18) is a delightful sparkling wine made predominantly from pinot noir grapes. This long time favorite of ours displays refreshing cherry and strawberry notes in a beautiful bargain-priced package. Our favorites of the zweigelts we tasted were the Leo Hillinger Zweigelt 2019 ($20) and the Paul D. (Winemaker Paul Direder) Zweigelt 2020 ($12). The Hillinger Zweigelt is made from organic grapes and is a pleasing table wine featuring notes of plums and cherries in a ready to drink format. A little chill will make this refreshing red wine a great accompaniment for outdoor summer quaffing.  

The Paul D. displayed a similar profile but with the addition of a intriguing distinctive element of black pepper.  

The Steininger Zweigelt Sekt 2015 ($30) is a red sparkling wine made entirely from zweigelt grapes. It wowed us with its ripe cherry fruit expression. The wine is food friendly and should be served chilled.  

Of the three Austrian pinot noirs we tasted, three performed at an outstanding level. At $21-22 for world-class pinot noir, these wines are table-pounding values. The two 2019 pinot noirs we tasted already had a slight maturity that equalled well-made Burgundy from France.  

The Anton Bauer Wagram Pinot Noir 2019 ($22) presented a mature, elegant ripe cherry expression that greatly impressed us. The Henrich Hartl Thermenregion Pinot Noir Classic 2019 ($21) was a dead ringer for a 5–10-year-old premier cru burgundy, It revealed mature dried ripe cherry notes in an elegant package.  

Although two years older, the Leo Hillinger Pinot Noir Eveline 2017 ($22) created the impression of a younger wine that leaned more to the style of California pinot noir with very ripe and clean fresh cherry fruit. 

Post and Beam 

Post and Beam is a new entry level of wines from Napa Valley icon Far Niente. Sold at a fraction of the tariff for the flagship brand, these wines deliver quality and relative value with the pedigree of Napa Valley and the Far Niente winemaking team as credentials.  

The Post and Beam Chardonnay Napa Valley 2020 ($40) is a good example of the current trend in California to tame over the top intense tropical fruit and the overt display of toasty oak that some find over-bearing. Well made with ripe apple notes, and a whiff of background oak and cinnamon.  

The Post and Beam Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2019 ($55) offers a classic cherry, berry and cassis exposition with soft tannin and balanced oak. A well-priced package for those seeking a premium Napa experience at a more modest price.  

Wine picks 

Lake Sonoma Winery Sonoma Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($28). Very aromatic with grapefruit and mango notes followed by pineapple, citrus and grassy flavors. 

Illumination Sauviignon Blanc 2020 ($50). A creation of the talented Huneeus family, this first vintage is very Bordeaux-like with some semillon blended with the musque clone of sauvignon blanc. Barrel aging adds to the complexity and provides a smooth texture to set it apart from the often-tart sauvignon blancs made elsewhere. Stone fruit notes with a dash of citrus and minerality. 

Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($22). Supplementing Clone 1 with the musque clone gives this delicious sauvignon blanc intriguing passionfruit and tangerine flavors. Grapefruit and peach with a thread of minerality provides layers of fruit. Crisp acidity. 

The unusual but delicious wines from Sicily

March 20, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR  

Sicily has struggled to get attention in the wine market. Known mostly for its marsala – a wine often relegated to a chicken recipe – Sicily hasn’t been focused on making world-renown wines. But that has changed as new generations of winemakers are becoming involved in an effort to hold on to some traditions but introduce new methods to improve wine quality. French grape varieties, new vineyard management, sustainable farming, oak barrels and more have given young winemakers more opportunity to create balanced wines. 

We recognized this in a recent tasting of several Sicilian wines made from indigenous grape varieties. Sponsored by the Consortium of Sicilia DOC,the tasting included grillo, frappato and nero d’avola.  These wines represent some of the best values on the market. 

Sicilians have been making wine on the island since 4000 BC and today it is the largest wine-growing region in Italy with 98,000 hectares under vine. It benefits from rising slopes, lots of sun, average rainfall and coastal breezes from the Mediterranean.  Nearly 78 percent of the 504 wineries are managed by a family member. One of five has gone through or will go through a generational shift before 2023. 

The transition to new generations is apparent at Alessandro di Camporeale where Benedetto Alessandro works with his cousins as the winery’s fourth generation.  As marketing manager, he said the new generations need to learn from their predecessors but build the product with better marketing and making wines with more personality.  

Celcilia Planeta of Planeta wines said that it’s easier to sell lesser -known wines than it is to change the minds of consumers who have dismissed more well-known wines because of a lack in quality. 

The red frappatos we tasted were simple and vibrant, much like beaujolais.  The white grillo wines, among our favorite alternatives to pinot grigio and chardonnay, are delicious and a versatile complement to seafood dishes. 

Grillo has mineral, elderflower, peach and tropical fruit notes.  Frapatos are savory with red fruit character and easy tannins. Another key component in these wines is their low alcohol. 

Here are some interesting wines for you to try; 

DiGiovanna Vurria Grillo 2020 ($22). The 30-year-old vineyards for this wine are up 1,600 feet. In the family for five generations, it has a lot of history.  The wine has generous aromatics, a clean finish and citrus, tropical fruit and limestone notes. 

Stemmari Dalila Bianco Riserva 2020 ($13). The viognier blended in this wine gives it more expressive aromas and texture. Very floral nose with soft mouthfeel and pear notes. 

Caruso & Minini “Naturalmente Bio” Grillo 2020 ($18). Nectarine and lime aromas are chased by generous peach and tropical fruit flavors. Fermented in oak and acacia tonneaux, it has surprising complexity and body. The maritime influence on the vineyard gives the wine a distinct salt aroma.  

Alessandro di Camporeale Grillo Vigna di Mandranova 2018 ($22). Fresh and vibrant grapefruit and mango aromas hand off to bright peach and mineral flavors.  

Donnafugata Bell’Assai Frappato 2019 ($29). This is a very interesting red wine that you need to try just for something different. Very floral nose with hints of violet. Strawberry flavors, a dash of pepper and soft tannins.  

Valle Dell’Acate II Moro Nero d’Avola 2017 ($23). We loved this wine for its boldness. Made entirely from nero d’avola grapes, it has juicy blackberry and black cherry notes, a hint of anise and moderate tannins to make it a good match for meat. It’s a nice balance between power and elegance. 

Cantine Ermes Epicentro Nero D’Avola Riserva Sicily DOC 2019 ($15). Plenty of plum and cherry fruit with a hint of chocolate. Big and rich and an outstanding value. 

ITALIAN WINES 

La Valentina “Spelt” Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva DOC 2017 ($23).  Staying true to traditional grape varieties from this region, the producer has made a rich and dense wine from entirely montepulciano grapes.  We have tasted this wine over several vintages and remain impressed by the complexity in a wine at this price. 

Li Veli Askos Susumaniello Salento IGT 2019 ($21).  For something unique in red wine, try this gem made entirely of the ancient grape susumaniello. From the Pulgia region, it has brawny tannins, intense aromas and rich dark fruit flavors with hints of spice and licorice.  

Tenuta Sant’Antonio “Monti Garbi” Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore DOC 2018 ($22). Another wine we’ve tasted over the years. This valpolicella made from corvina grapes is vinified in the traditional ripasso way: secondary fermentation with pressed dried grape skins that were initially used to make amarone. The result is more complexity and texture.  Coffee, herbs and licorice on the nose with red and dark berry fruit flavors. 

Wine picks  

Les Cadrans de Lassegue Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2016 ($30). Second wines of highly ranked wines from Bordeaux can provide great value to discerning consumers. The 2016 Les Cadrans de Lassegue, second wine of the Saint Emilion Grand Cru Chateau Lassegue, is no exception. A skillful blend of 90 percent merlot and 10 percent cabernet franc this very complex complete wine is an amazing value. The Les Cadrans presents a perfumed nose of mushrooms and violets with plum and clove notes in the mouth, creating a very complex and pleasing package. We also tasted the 2017 Les Cadrans which tilted more to cherry and leather and was not as expressive and generous as the 2016, which is to be expected. Time will tell about the 2017s. In the meantime, try to secure the 2016 if you favor red Bordeaux. 

Dry Creek Heritage Vines Zinfandel Sonoma County 2019 ($26). This perennial offering from Dry Creek has become a favorite of ours. Classic very well-made California zinfandel featuring bright berry elements with raspberry leading the way. Give this a slight chill for summertime enjoyment.                                                                                

Flowers getting the dirt on winemaking

March 13, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Chantal Forthun, winemaker at Flowers Vineyard and Winery, was standing alongside a row of vines and over a six-foot hole when she had what she called a “light-bulb moment.” Standing with a pick axe in the pit was Pedro Parra, a revered dirt doctor who consults with winemakers around the world. A Chilean by birth, Parra believes that you cannot make good wine without knowing what lies deep beneath a vineyard’s surface. 

Terroir is regarded as a major influencer in a wine’s profile whether it be the limestone in Champagne or the gravel in the Left Bank. Sandy soils can leave wine with less acidity and tannin. Clay soils, on the other hand, yield wines with more body, tannin and fruit extraction. 

As Parra thumped the side of the hole with his pick axe he would ask Forthun to describe the wines. Having been there a decade, she could rattle off the characteristics with ease. He could tell what in the soil gave the wine it’s flavor profile. Sometimes the revelation wasn’t what Forthun expected. 

The two dozen pits dug on the property was a new effort to understand the two remote vineyards that is best described as “extreme viticulture” at Flowers. Camp Meeting Ridge, planted in 1991, sits above a fog line along a flat top about 1,200 in elevation and is composed of mostly fractured sandstone. Insulated below by a wall of forest, it has its own special micro-climate. It is only two miles from the Pacific. 

Even closer to the water is Sea View Ridge, a 43-acre vineyard planted in 1998, that has broken red rock soil and basalt. These windswept vineyards have unique soils that demands more than a superficial inspection to fully comprehend its influences on wine. Pinot noir is grown here. 

“For years we were told this is a special place for special people. But we didn’t know how special it was beyond the beautiful surroundings. We needed to understand how beauty translates into wine,” Forthun said. 

That feeling is echoed by Rodrigo Soto, estate vineyard manager, who is equally mesmerized by Perra’s analysis. 

“We gained a tremendous amount of accuracy,” he said. “We identified blocks and isolated them. We now monitor them with a very difference lens.” 

Forthun said her “light-bulb moment” came when Perra dug a hole in a Sea View Ridge block. 

“We picked the grapes the same time each year but we couldn’t get the chemistry right. When he opened the soil, we knew immediately what was wrong. It was completely rocky – no soil. Roots, big and thick, made their way around rocks looking deeper for soil and water.” 

She can’t do much to change the soil, so she concluded that she may not get the ripeness she wanted from the grapes. 

Forthun and Soto work together to create wines with a desired texture, extraction and aroma – all based on the terroir they have identified. 

Flowers is a member of the West Sonoma Coast Vintners and in good company with Paul Hobbs, Joseph Phelps, Peay and others. 

The three wines we tasted were terrific.  

The 2019 Flowers Almar Camp Meeting Ridge Chardonnay is remarkable for its concentration and mouthfeel. You can the evergreen forest below and the saltiness from the ocean in sight from the property. Citrus and peach notes abound and it has crisp acidity.  

The two pinots had length and tension because the roots have to work hard to penetrate the red rock.  The 2019 Flowers Sea View Ridge Pietra Pinot Noir has earthy aromas and broad dark fruit flavors with hints of herbs and a terroir-driven mineral character. Forthun said the wines are “deeply tortured” to wind a path through the basalt terroir. 

The 2019 Sea View Ridge Cielo from the highest point in the vineyard enjoys great sun. The soil here is more gravelly at the surface. The wine is very floral and has more plum notes on the palate. We found this pinot noir more elegant than the massive Pietra. 

Forthun said they have tasted these pinot noirs from the 2008 vintage and they were still alive. We’re not surprised. 

Flowers has been owned by the Huneeus family since 2009. 

Wine picks 

Here are a few syrah and syrah blends that we recently discovered. 

JONATA Todos 2018 ($50).  Matt Dees, winemaker of this Santa Ynez Valley winery, describes this blend as “50 percent syrah, 30 percent cabernet sauvignon and 20 percent chaos.” The chaos is another 8 grape varieties, so we see what he means. The result is an enjoyable, lavishly textured wine with oodles of ripe red berry fruit.  This property is owned by billionaire Stan Kroenke, who bought Screaming Eagle in 2006. 

Faust The Hour 2019 ($90). For the syrah fan in your family, we suggest this incredibly concentrated monster from the rugged Coombsville area of Napa Valley. It is packed with plum, wild blackberry and spice flavors cloaked in firm tannins. Very floral nose with notes of violets, pepper and black cherries. Long and firm in the finish. This is a blockbuster wine that would pair well with beef. 

Copain Wines Les Voisins Syrah 2017 ($36). This is a beautifully structured wine with generous notes of black olives, blueberries and lavender. Deliciously ripe and fruit forward. 

Ferraton Pere & Fils Cotes-du-Rhone Samorens Rouge 2019 ($16). We loved this equal blend of grenache and syrah, a nice soft approach to the holiday meal. It’s a great sipper but it is versatile enough to go with just about anything you put on the table for the holiday feast. Ripe and juicy blackberry, raspberry notes with a hint of black licorice and dried rosemary.  

South Africa’s amazing sauvignon blancs

March 8, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR                                                                                                                              

South African sauvignon blanc is not exactly top of mind for most American wine consumers. South Africa lacks a definitive wine grape identity, although they offer interesting and usually value-oriented varieties such as the white varietal chenin blanc and the red pinotage. More associated with sauvignon blanc is New Zealand, the world’s second largest producer of the varietal.                                                                   

A severe decline in New Zealand production of Marlborough sauvignon blanc, the result of an early flowering and subsequent late frost, has decimated vineyard yields. The approximately 30 percent reduction in production could result in potential shortages and rising prices for this iconic flagship Kiwi product. However, this misfortune for New Zealand is an opportunity for other sauvignon blanc producers to fill the void. The cool climate in South Africa gives them an advantage.                                

We recently tasted several South Africa sauvignon blancs and believe they merit the attention of our readers. They all come from three adjacent wine regions that rim the southwestern coast of the country just off to the west from the Cape of Good Hope, and near the city of Cape Town. We were impressed with their refreshing drinkability, unique style and very reasonable prices.

Overall, we experienced elegant citrus fruit notes and a distinctive minerality that created very crisp drinkable wines. These wines are not built to age, so buy the most current vintage.

Whale Route Sauvignon Blanc Grand Reserve South Africa 2021 ($10). This bargain entry to our tasting was very impressive. Its lovely peach, mineral elements with a hint of herbs create a very lively and agreeable drink that should please everyone.                                                    Rustenberg Sauvignon Blanc W.O. Stellenbosch 2020 ($14). Only stainless steel is used in producing this wine. Lemon citrus with a hint of ripe melon, moderate minerality, and aged on lees 3 months.                                                                                                                Lomond Sauvignon Blanc W.O. Cape Aguilhas 2020 ($18). From the cool southernmost tip of South Africa, this wine exhibits strong citrus and mineral notes with just a hint of white pepper that adds complexity.                                                                                                                     Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc D.O. Walker Bay 2021. ($18). This example of sauvignon blanc from South Africa generated more fruit weight in the mouth with ripe plum and rainier cherry notes and a hint of passion fruit. A nice underlying minerality provided a pleasant contrast to the abundant fruit. Our favorite of the tasting.

Davis Bynum

Growing grapes in the Russian River Valley, Davis Bynum is primarily known for their delicious cool climate chardonnay and pinot noir but also produces a lovely sauvignon blanc.

The sauvignon blanc is sourced from a small 5-acre vineyard called Virginia’s block in honor of Davis Bynum’s second wife.

The Davis Bynum Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley Virginia’s Block 2020 ($25) is a complex sauvignon blanc balancing ripe peach notes with refreshing grapefruit and herb elements. Aged in a mix of woods and stainless steel this lovely wine with crisp acidity invites the taster to take another sip. Try with any chicken or seafood dishes.

We also enjoyed the Davis Bynum Chardonnay Sonoma County Russian River Valley 2018 ($25) which displayed a delicious creamy apple toast profile. Mouth-coating fruit and a long finish create a memorable drinking experience. Davis Bynum was the first to produce a Russian River Valley pinot noir in 1973. Today Davis Bynum fashions the Davis Bynum Pinot Noir Sonoma County Russian River Valley Dutton Ranches 2019 and their lengthy single vineyard winemaking experience shines. A complex mélange of plum, black cherry, and cola and spice notes are on display in a magnificent package.  

Davis Bynum is part of the family-owned Rodney Strong Vineyards.

Alsace sparkling wine

Crémant from Alsace may be our favorite French sparkling wines outside of Champagne. Major French wine making regions produce a sparkling wine made from the wine grapes typically grown in the region. They sell for a fraction of the price of champagne and sometimes rival them for quality and popularity.

Lucien Albrecht Cremant d’Alsace Rose N/V is one of our perennial favorites. Made from 100 percent pinot noir, this visually appealing sparkler features fresh cherry and strawberry flavors and nose and is delightfully refreshing.

We also enjoyed Domaine Joseph Cattin Cremant d’Alsace Brut N/V. The grapes vary somewhat from year to year but generally consist of some combination of pinot gris, pinot blanc and riesling. Apple notes are accented with citrus elements and present a smooth rich bubbly experience in the mouth.         

Wine picks

Mettler Epicenter Old Vine Zinfandel Lodi 2019 ($25). Zinfandel fans will love this vibrant wine with ripe blueberry and black berry notes, hints of vanilla and spice with a long finish.

CK Mondavi California Merlot 2018 ($9). The price is not a typo. This may not be your most complex merlot, but it satisfies the palate and the pocketbook.  Plum aromas with cherry and blackberry flavors. Very smooth and quaffable.

Priest Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($50). This opulent wine is made entirely from estate-grown, Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon.  Plum and black cherry notes, fine tannins and long in the finish.

Esporao Alentejo Portugal 2018 ($25). Well worth the reasonable price, this Portuguese gem is a blend of aragonez, trincadeire, syrah, touriga nacional, touriga franca, cabernet sauvignon and alicante bouschet. Whew! With lots of American oak aging, it is pack with jammy dark berry fruit flavors but accented by spice and chocolate.

Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Unfiltered 2018 ($59). Although expensive, this red wine packs a lot of complexity for the price. A sumptuously deep and rich display of the classic cherry and cassis flavors that you expect from a premium Napa Valley cabernet. Soft approachable tannins make this fine wine a candidate for near-term drinking, but it has the legs for at least a decade of aging.

The different styles of Barolo

February 28, 2020

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR  

If there is anything to adequately characterize the wine world in the mid 1980s, it would be revolution. The United States, France and Italy were teeming with young rebels who were abandoning traditional winemaking practices to craft better wine. European grape varieties, smaller barrels, native yeasts and biodynamic farming outraged older generations who wanted their successors to strictly adhere to long-lived traditions. Younger generations who inherited the winemaking mantel saw their chance to improve wine quality.  

Facing financial peril, a young and brash Michel Chapoutier swapped his father’s chestnut oak barrels for new French barrels, introduced biodynamic farming and created luxury wines from the Northern Rhone Valley. Angelo Gaja, a fourth-generation winemaker in Piedmont, feuded with his father before introducing Bordeaux grape varieties and small French oak barrels to make barbarescos. His wines achieved international acclaim.   

This internecine war between generations was no more bitter than in the Barolo commune of Piedmont. It was even the subject of a 2014 documentary, “The Barolo Boys,” a movie that can still be found on Netflix.  

In the movie, Elio Altare talks about how consumers would spit out tannic, under-developed barolos. He visited Burgundy to help him understand why that region’s wines were held in higher esteem. When he returned, he introduced several changes to his family’s wines: he cut up the large, worm-infested Slavonian oak barrels into firewood, invested in smaller French barriques, eliminated herbicides and pesticides, used only indigenous yeasts and eliminated fining and filtering. His father, Giovanni, was so aghast, he wouldn’t speak to him. Worse, when he died in 1985, Elio found out he was cut from his will.  

Altare worked to buy back the winery from his siblings and today Elio Altare wines have the elegance and balance that eluded his father.   

Altare was just one of many young winemakers who led Barolo into a new world, particularly in the United States, where consumers were willing to pay big money for expensive barolos that didn’t require decades of aging to be enjoyed. They were so idolized that they toured the United States like they were the Beatles.  

So, how did history treat this movement? Many of these wine producers, once living in poverty, were seeing profits like they never have seen before, thanks in part to this country’s emerging love affair with Italian food.  Barolos were racking up high scores from critics and that drove demand. Financially, the changes were a success.  

However, even the Barolo boys will admit the revolution may have gone too far because of the deep rift it caused. Maybe gradual, less radical change would have achieved the same success but without the family acrimony.  The young winemakers have grown old and now have off-spring to judge them. Altare, for instance, turned over the reins of the winery to his daughter, Silvia, in 2016.  

Today we’re seeing more of a bridge between traditional and progressive winemaking in Barolo. French barriques are still favored to soften tannins through shorter maceration and to create a second layer of flavors – coffee, vanilla, chocolate and more.  But today there is some Slavonian oak being used.   

We recently tasted two 2007 barolos that demonstrated different approaches. The Azelia Bricco Fiasco Barolo was aged 24 months in a mix of Slavonian, French and Austrian oak barrels. Maceration was a long 55 days just as they were in the old days. The Domenico Clerico Pajana Barolo was macerated for half the time and aged 16 months in French barrique. Domenico Clerico, who recently died, was one of the progressive “Barolo Boys.”  

Both high-scoring wines were impressive for different reasons. The Domaine Clerico was more approachable with round tannins and layered fruit, but at 15 years old it showed the new style didn’t hurt its endurance.  

The Loire 

The Loire region of France may be known more for its picturesque castles that dot a rolling-hill landscape. But beyond those castles are acres of vineyards that consumers often overlook. Although the region has a dizzying array of 87 appellations, there are only four grape varieties grown here: sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc, melon de bourgogne and cabernet franc (the only red grape variety).  

What is really overlooked is the beguiling profile of the white wines: low acidity and moderate alcohol.  Those elements make the wines very approachable for sipping as well as pairing alongside simple foods. The popular sauvignon blancs are dominated by grapefruit, freshly mown grass and minerality. The chenin blancs usually have a melon character. The muscadets that deploy the unique melon de bourgogne are simple and crisp – a perfect match to oysters. 

Discover – or rediscover – this region. 

Domaine de Villalin Quincy 2020 ($18). This sauvignon blanc is full-bodied and has herbal aromas, grassy, grapefruit and citrus flavors.  Long in the finish, we found this wine to be impeccably delicious. This is one of our favorite appellations in the Loire Valley. 

Pierre-Olivier Bonhomme Tesniere Blanc Touraine 2019 ($25). Menu pineau and chenin blanc grapes make up this refreshing Vin de France.  Apples notes and crisp acidity. 

Chateau de Montgueret, M de Montgueret Tete de Cuvee Saumur Brut ($14). Not all sparkling wine from France is champagne. This region plays home to quite a few sparkling wines made in the same style. Unlike champagne, though, the composition includes chenin blanc, chardonnay and groleau. Flowery aromas with peach and brioche flavors. 

Wine picks 

Aperture Cellars Bordeaux Red Blend Sonoma County 2018 ($55). Malbec (40 percent) and merlot (34 percent) dominate this fantastic wine with the remaining blend made up of the other three red Bordeaux varietals. This is a massive wine with abundant fruit notes of cherries and berries and an interesting spice note that includes hints of fennel. A very well-balanced wine.  

Girasole Vineyards Pinot Blanc 2019 ($15). Grapefruit and peach aromas with orange and apple flavors typify this Mendocino gem. Fresh acidity and a dash of classic minerality. 

Lake Sonoma Winery Lazy Dog Vineyards Malbec 2019 ($45). Dense, purple-tinged color with vibrant plum and blackberry flavors. 

Tenuta Sant Antonio Monti Garbi Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2018 ($18). Good complexity and body highlight this ripasso-styled wine that brings together corvina, rondinella and other native red grape varieties. One of the best bargains on the market considering the structure of this wine. 

San Luis Obispo and the confusing AVAs

February 21, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Appellations were once a simple matter but not anymore. Consumers understand the difference between Napa and Sonoma, for instance, especially when they go to the cash register.  But keeping straight the sub-appellations – especially when they overlap with other appellations – taxes the brain. 

“American Viticultural Areas” are approved by the Tax and Trade Bureau, a division of the U.S. Treasury.  To be awarded an AVA, the petitioner must demonstrate, among other things, that the defined area is diverse and unique to other areas. If it overlaps an existing AVA or is within another AVA, the petitioner must show there is something distinct to warrant special recognition. “California,” for instance, is hardly unique but it is an AVA. Inside, there are 139 separate AVAs.  

This labyrinth of appellations can be confusing to many consumers but they mean a lot to a producer’s profits. A wine from a Napa Valley AVA commands more money than, say, one from Lodi. Aside from cost, there is a difference in flavors because the soil changes. A pinot noir from Santa Rita Hills in Santa Ynez Valley is going to taste much different than a wine from the same grape variety grown in the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County.   

New appellations are added every year. West Sonoma Coast is awaiting its approval with iconic supporters such as  Paul Hobbs, Flowers, Joseph Phelps and Peay. But most recently San Luis Obispo Coast has become an AVA.  It will join 15 other appellations in San Luis Obispo County, but this is where it gets confusing. Eleven AVAs fall within the large Paso Robles AVA. Additionally In the county are the adjacent York Mountain, Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande AVAs. The new SLO Coast AVA overlays Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande AVAs. Confusing, yes. 

The San Luis Obispo Coast AVA, about 60 miles long, runs from Nipomo in the south to San Simeon in the north. It is between the Pacific Ocean and the Santa Lucia Mountains.  Temperatures here are the coldest on average of any California AVA.  Chardonnay and pinot grow well in this climate but you also will find Rhone grape varieties such as grenache, syrah and viognier. It’s also a tourist mecca with sites such as the Hearst Castle and Pismo Beach. 

Here are a few of the top producers and their wines we liked: 

Laetitia Estate Chardonnay Arroyo Grande Valley 2020 ($22). Wow, what a great value. Ripe tropical fruit notes with a kiss of oak and spice. 

Laetitia Estate Pinot Noir 2020 ($27). It will be hard to find a better pinot noir at this price. Medium body with lots of ripe black cherry flavors and generous aromatics. The producer also makes a reserve pinot noir at $44 that has more complexity.  

Talley Vineyards Chardonnay Arroyo Grande Valley 2020 ($34). Citrus aromas and pear flavors make this a delicious, well-balanced wine with smooth mouthfeel. 

Chamisal Califa Grenache 2019 ($45).  We loved this bright and fruity grenache from one of Edna Valley’s oldest properties. Strawberry and cherry flavors. 

Saucelito Canyon Elodie Estate Old Vine Zinfandel 2019 ($75). Cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc work with old-vine zinfandel fruit to create a rich and intense blend from the Arroyo Grande Valley. Ripe blackberry and currants.  

Center of Effort Rosso Corsa Pinot Noir 2019 ($80). Produced in small quantities and only in good vintages, we mention this pinot noir only because it represents the quality you can expect from this new AVA. From a cool climate with coastal fog, it has forest-floor and anise aromas with ripe black cherry flavors. It is sold only through its website. 

Stephen Ross Wine Cellar Spanish Springs Vineyard Albarino 2020 ($25). Like the wines from Northern Spain, this albarino has a lean profile with fresh acidity, peach and pear flavors. It’s a good aperitif or a wine to serve with oysters and other seafood dishes. 

Wolff Vineyards Old Vines Chardonnay 2020 ($29). You probably have heard of old-vine zinfandel, but chardonnay? The vines for this Edna Valley wine are 45 years old and pre-date phylloxera. Whole-cluster pressing and malolatic fermentation give a lot of lush appeal to the wine. Tropical fruit and citrus flavors abound. 

Tolosa Edna Ranch Chardonnay 2018 ($59).  Full body with tantalizing apple and pear flavors. Long in the finish with light oak notes. Good value. 

Wine picks 

Decoy California Chardonnay 2020 ($20). About 60 percent of the fruit comes from Sonoma County in this reasonably priced and tasty chardonnay. Lots of citrus notes with a hint of vanilla. 

Poggio Stenti Montecucco Rosso DOC 2019 ($29). A blend of sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon, this Italian wine from Italy’s Maremma region is an excellent buy. Lots of forward and soft red fruit and balsamic flavors.  

Maciarine Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2016 ($35).  Raspberry and red currant notes dominate this delightful Italian sangiovese. Hints of mint and rosemary with easy tannins. 

Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha 2019 ($19).  This is one of our favorite everyday red wines. Made from garnacha (grenache) grapes, it offers ripe cherry and strawberry aromas and rich blackberry and plum flavors. It’s an easy drink to pair with barbecued meats. 

Esporao White Reserva Alentejo 2020 ($19). From Portugal, this refreshing wine is a blend of the local antao vaz, arinto and roupeiro grapes. Sublte aromas, smooth texture and juicy tropical fruit flavors. 

Lake Sonoma Winery Boar’s Blood Red Blend 2018 ($60). This heady blockbuster is a rich blend of cabernet sauvignon, petite sirah and barbera. Generous aromas of dark berries with a hint of vanilla. Chewy tannins with sweet dark fruit flavors and a hint of vanilla. 

Think pink and red for Valentine’s Day

February 7, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

Color is often associated with mood. You’re feeling blue, in the pink or green with envy. This month we bet you’re seeing red. Red is associated with strong emotions, but February is all about romance.  Erotic scenes in art are doused in red and it’s the only color you see on candy boxes and greeting cards. Do you plan to buy daffodils for Valentine’s Day. We hope not; red roses are what is expected.

Red – or shades of it – are the color for Valentine’s wine too.

Whether you’re in a restaurant or, like us, gathered intimately around a table at home, there should be pink or red in the glass. Pinot noir, for instance, is often described as sexy and alluring – terms that can apply equally to the person sitting beside you.  Rosé champagne may be expensive – what are you saving money for? -- but there’s nothing like bubbles to excite the senses. A French rosé also has appealing color and is a versatile match to food.

Get your romance on and try one of these wines:

Sparkling Rosé

Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé ($80). Founded in 1818 shortly after the marriage between Nicolas Francois Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon, there are few luxury rosés that will deliver a romantic love note like this. Creamy in the mouth with strawberry and raspberry notes, citrus aromas and persistent bubbles, it is a wine to enjoy sip by sip with or without food. Frankly, for us it’s the meal.

Champagne Perrier-Jouet Blason Rose Ecobox ($75). Lively black cherry and pomegranate notes with persistent bead and lingering finish.

Mumm Napa Brut Rose ($25). A good value from California, this brut has black cherry and citrus notes. Lovely color would make it an appealing quaff once in the glass.

Argyle Brut Rosé 2018 ($30).  If you can’t afford champagne, there are many alternatives from the West Coast. Winemaker Nate Klostermann succeeded legendary Rollin Soles in 2005 and carried the tradition of making great value wines.  His 2011 Extended Tirage Brut ($85) is an extraordinary wine that competes with the best champagne, but the rosé is a good value for this occasion. Red fruit and white peach notes linger all the way through the finish.

French rosé

Gerard Bertrand Cote des Rosés 2020 ($17). From the Languedoc, this beautiful blend of grenache, syrah and cinsault is remarkable for its intense aromas and pure fruit character. Faint orange in color, it has dominant grapefruit notes with a hint of orange peel, all contained in an eye-catching bottle with a rose-shaped bottom.

Berne Inspiration 2020 ($20). From Chateau de Berne, this blend of grenache noir, cinsault and syrah has a vibrant berry nose, fresh acidity and strawberry, cherry flavors with a hint of lavender.

Berne Romance 2020 ($15). Grenache noir, cinsault, syrah and merlot combine to make an aromatic and fresh wine with strawberry and peach flavors.

Ultimate Provence UP 2020 ($22). This bottle is so beautiful that a guest took it home to use for olive oil. But it’s also beautiful inside. A blend of syrah, grenache noir, cinsault and rolle, its fresh fruit character, fresh acidity and citrus, spice notes get rave reviews.

Red wines

Etude Estate Pinot Noir 2018 ($47). From the cool Northwest Carneros, this luxurious pinot noir is packed with bright strawberry and black cherry flavors with hints of spice. The fine tannins and balanced acidity make it a good match to dinner fare, such as salmon, tomato-based pasta sauces, veal and more.

Ruffino Modus Toscana IGT 2017 ($28). Cabernet sauvignon and merlot are blended with the local sangiovese in this super super-tuscan wine. Forward cherry, plum and spice notes would complement meat-based pasta. Amore!

Beaulieu Vineyards Reserve Tapestry Napa Valley 2018 ($65). If beef is on your menu, here is a great choice. Using Bordeaux grape varieties, Tapestry offers great complexity, layered fruit, soft tannins and a long finish. What isn’t there to like? Ripe plum and black cherry flavors with hints of raspberry, spices, forest floor and currants.

Loveblock Pinot Noir 2020 ($37). From New Zealand’s Kim Crawford, this exuberant pinot noir is loaded with black cherry fruit. Extracted, lush and delicious.

Other champagnes

If pink champagne isn’t your style, here are some bubbly alternatives:

Louis Roederer Collection 242 ($60).  We’ve been big fans of Roederer’s non-vintage champagne, but this one is even better. Roederer phased out its non-vintage brut premier and in its place offers this multi-vintage version. Instead of looking for consistency year after year, the new blend changes proportions according to the vintage. Collection 242 debuts with 56 percent of the blend coming from the 2017 vintage. Normally, it’s a bit dicey to depend on the fruits of a single vintage in an area confounded by cold weather.  But global warming makes each vintage predictably good, thus sparing producers from dipping deep into reserves. Chardonnay dominates the blend. It is refined and textured with fresh tropical fruit notes.

Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut ($60-70). Bone dry with some yeast notes in the nose with apples and citrus flavors. Try with bold even oily fishes such as mackerel, or raw or very rare tuna or salmon.

Champagne Bollinger PN VZ15 ($120). A new wine in Bollinger’s lineup, the PN focuses on a different region to showcase its pinot noir-based champagne. This version is from Verzenay – nearly half comes from the 2015 and the rest features reserve wines dating back to 2009. It is an exquisite, full-bodied champagne that is bold enough to complement food. Stone fruit flavors, effusive pear and cherry aromas with toasty, hazelnuts hints.

Champagne Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru ($80). Using reserve wines from 25 vintages dating back to 1985, this all-chardonnay champagne has the delicacy and finesse you expect. Lime and grapefruit notes.

Champagne Lanson Le Black Label Brut ($50). A very fairly priced champagne crafted from 50 percent pinot noir, 35 percent chardonnay, and 15 percent pinot meunier. Very well balanced with apple/pear notes and a light toast finish.

Australian shiraz can age — and age well

Jan. 31, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

In is not uncommon among winemakers to age wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy, Piedmont and even California. But Australia? Except for the exceptional wines from Penfolds, shiraz is not often in cellars. That’s unfortunate because shiraz can be more than a wine to serve with pizza. 

Just ask Mark Davidson, the head of education in Australia. 

“It is fairly consistent for sommeliers to hear the wines from Australia don’t age very well. Except when they do,” he said. “We have such gorgeous fruit and sometimes that fruit hides complexity. But if you have patience, you see the wonderful development in the wine.” 

Davidson was one of several people to demonstrate the ageability of shiraz from southern Australia during a recent program at the San Francisco Wine School.  The program included Chester Osborn of d’Arenberg in McLaren Vale and Ian Hongell of Torbreck in the Barossa Valley. These are two extraordinary winemakers whose wines rise above most others. We’ve been big fans of d’Arenberg for years. 

Shiraz, the most planted grape variety in Australia, is deceiving in its youth. The lively, fresh fruit can mask the tannins and leave the impression there is nothing there to give it legs. But over time shiraz develops some earthy and savory notes. After tasting different vintages side by side, we prefer the younger wines or maybe some not as old.  But we don’t doubt their ageability.  

Osborn attributed his wine’s endurance on the terroir of the McLaren Vale. He says the soils are complex and the region relatively cool, which gives the wine good acidity needed for aging.  

Ian Hongell, chief winemaker at the well-respected Torbreck winery in the Barossa Valley, said wines from his region are more opulent.  

“Underneath are developed tannins which set up longevity. The primary plummy fruit starts to evolve in 5 to 10 years with secondary flavors like cedar, tobacco and a lovely forest floor at 20 years.” 

The Torbreck “The Factor” is a phenomenal wine. The 2010 we sampled was showing extremely will with no depreciation in structure or fruit.  Although pricey on release, it is a standout in a crowded shiraz field. 

Osborn, fourth-generation winemaker at d’Arenberg, made similar observations for wine made in McLaren Vale when we compared his 2017 and 2010 “The Dead Arm.” This is been one of our favorite wines in Australia.  He sources shiraz from vines that range in age from 30 to 130 years old. Osborn said that he gets different character from each block.  

The 2017 was still tight and young, but the 2010 was showing opulence and a savory, spicy, and raisin character that developed with age. 

American oak used to be popular in Australia, but the higher-quality producers are now using French oak to reduce the sweetness and add a layer of secondary fruit, such as dark chocolate. Among the wines we compared, the older vintages had round tannins, tobacco and even leather qualities. 

We enjoyed Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna ($40), a shiraz that is relatively easy to find in the U.S. Lots of density and extracted dark fruit. Hongell thought at it would evolve as nicely as the 2010, which still had youthful fruit character. 

The other two comparisons were the Kay Brothers Hillside in McLaren Vale and Wakefield “St. Andrews” in Clare Valley. Alas, these wines are priced about $50 but that’s what it takes to get the best fruit and oak. 

No aging required 

Here are some Australian wines we tried that are don’t need aging and are reasonably priced: 

Paxton NOW Shiraz 2021 ($20). From McLaren Vale, “NOW” implies the optimum drinking time of this juicy, raspberry and blueberry flavored shiraz.  

Mount Langi Ghiran Cliff Edge Shiraz 2019 ($29). Blackberry and blueberry notes with balanced acidity and hints of spice and vanilla. 

Best’s Great Western Bin 1 2019 ($25).  Complex yet quaffable, this well-structured wine has fresh raspberry and plum flavors spiked with spice and pepper. 

Yering Station Shiraz Viognier 2018 ($30). The Rathbone family has owned this historic property since 1996 and continues to make reliable wine the family is known for. The viognier gives lift to a generous bouquet of violets, peppercorns and anise. Rich texture with opulent red and dark fruit. 

Finding Utopia 

We recently caught up with Daniel Warnshuis, winemaker, owner and chief bottle washer at Utopia Wines in the Ribbon Ridge appellation of the Willamette Valley. Although his pinot noirs are even better than we remember from previous tastings, the chardonnay rocked our boat. Austere and balanced with the right acidity, it reminded us of some burgundies that are more food friendly than the extracted chardonnays coming out of the Russian River Valley. 

Warnshuis said that the climate dictates much of this style. “Pinot ripens before chardonnay here. They just don’t ripen early” to make extracted, overblown chardonnay. 

He’s also limiting new oak to only 18 percent to avoid those barrel-inspired flavors. The 2018 Utopia Chardonnay was a good deal at $45. 

We also enjoyed his 2018 Utopia Paradise Estate Pinot Noir ($65) made from three clonal varieties and the 2018 Utopia Clone 777 ($65). The pinot noirs undergo whole-cluster fermentation to give them more texture and tannin. 

Wine picks 

Frescobaldi Castel Giocondo Brunello Di Montalcino 2016 ($75). A very good offering from Frescobaldi, this Brunello Di Montalcino is crafted from sangiovese grapes and aged for 5 years in wood and bottle before release. Cherry leather notes dominate with a hint of earth scents. Big and powerful but seamless on the palate. Pleasurable now but will age well for at least a decade.  

Josh Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve North Coast 2018 ($22). This widely available national brand is full-bodied and features ripe cherry and cassis notes with a hint of savory herbs. A terrific wine for a reasonable price. Pair with bold meat, stews and barbecued fare. 

Gundlach Bundschu Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2019 ($27).  We liked this chardonnay because it reminded us how chardonnay used to be made: bright acidity, tempered oak and bright, clean fruit and no malolactic fermentation. Apple notes with hints of mineral and citrus. 

Qupé Santa Barbara County Grenache 2018 ($30). We can’t say enough about this well-structured, beautiful and effusive grenache. Extracted and concentrated red fruit character with a touch of spice. 

Munoz bullish on valley floor wines

January 24, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Laura Diaz Munoz is very bullish on wines made in Napa Valley’s valley floor. The winemaker who is putting a fresh coat on Ehlers Estate believes her wine is every bit as good as more expensive wines made from grapes grown on hillside vineyards. For her, it’s getting the most from the soil and climate to make the best wines specific to that location. 

The location is at Napa Valley’s narrowest point between the Mayacamas and Vaca mountains that sees morning fog, full sun during the day and shore breezes in the afternoon.  

Munoz is focused on single varieties – cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc – that do well in a cauldron of soils that range from clay to gravel. All of the nine wines come from 40 acres of estate vineyards divided into five main blocks based on soil type. Sauvignon blanc is the only white wine made here. 

Bernard Ehlers established the winery in 1886. In the mid 1990s Jean and Sylviane Leducq, who came from France in search of property to create a legacy akin to the chateaux of Bordeaux, bought Ehlers Estate.  Although they have passed, their foundation continues to fund efforts to combat cardiovascular disease and stroke. 

Originally from Madrid, Munoz has been in Napa Valley for 15 years and spent a number of years working beside Chris Carpenter at Cardinale, Lokoya, Mt. Brave and La Jota.  Besides giving Ehlers Estate wines a new label that reflects a sense of location, Munoz is focused on farming to extract the best wine from the diverse, biodynamically farmed soils. 

“The future is in the vineyards,” she said. “We’re not planning on growing in volume. We’re just trying to change the way we farm to make the wines better.” 

We loved the 2018 Ehlers Estate Merlot ($65), a fruity and fresh version with balanced acidity. Oak-inspired mocha and spice aromas complement the juicy raspberry and cassis flavors. 

The 2018 Ehlers Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($72) is full bodied with blackberry and cherry notes and hints of black pepper, leather and cedar.  

Cono Sur 

There is an endless -- and perhaps fruitless -- argument over which region makes the best pinot noir: Burgundy, Oregon, California, New Zealand are in the mix. But rarely do you hear anyone add Chile, a wine-growing region known more for its sauvignon blancs and cabernet sauvignons.  

Matias Rios, however, is more than eager to talk about it. Since 2003 he has been the winemaking director of Cono Sur. Founded in 1993 with a focus on pinot noir. Once Cono Sur recognized the potential for this grape, it created the “pinot noir project” in 1999 with a focus on following Burgundian vinification practices by Burgundy native Martin Prieur. It started by switching to a sustainable agriculture. 

Cono Sur farms more than 3,700 acres of vineyards at 20 estates spread over all major wine regions in Chile. Twenty percent is planted to pinot noir.  His goal is to make the best pinot noir in Chile. 

Rios argues that the climate and terroir in these regions are ideal for the often-unpredictable pinot noir grape variety. The region is blocked in by the Pacific Ocean to the east, the Andes Mountains to the east, Atacama Desert to the north and glaciers to the south. These elements trap in the oceans breezes that cool the delicate pinot noir grapes.  The highest temperature seen here is only 77 degrees.  

Rios has blazed a trail in innovations. He was the first to introduce artificial corks and now screw caps.  Cono Sur was the first to have an organic and later a carbon-neutral wine.  

These wines are good values if you aren’t looking for an equal to more concentrated pinot noirs from the West Coast. Here is a summary: 

Cono Sur Bicicleta Reserve Pinot Noir 2019 ($10). Bright cherry and raspberry notes with a medium body and a dash of dried herbs.  Only a small portion of the wine is aged in used oak barrels in order to retain the freshness. 

Cono Sur Organic Pinot Noir 2019 ($11). Generous red berry aromas with a hint of toasty oak. Round in the finish. This wine is vegan and carbon neutral.  

Cono Sur 20 Barrels Pinot Noir 2018 ($25). With additional oak aging, this wine has more concentration and complexity. Raspberry and dark cherry flavor with balanced acidity and good tannins. The grapes are foot-trodden because Rios says there is a more human connection in sensing the right touch in crushing the grapes. 

Wine picks 

Marchesi di Gresy Monte Aribaldo Dolcetto d’Alba DOC 2019 ($19). Made entirely of dolcetto grapes and aged in stainless steel, this delicious wine from Piedmonte has vibrant and fresh cherry and strawberry notes. 

Li Veli Orion Salento IGT 2019 ($15). Made from primitivo grapes – thought to be related to zinfandel – this wine has juicy and ripe dark berry flavors. 

Zenato Ripassa Valpolicella Superiore 2017 ($30). We are always thankful to find this wine in restaurants because it delivers a lot of quality for the money. Classified an amarone because the grapes are allowed to raisin on the vine before they are pressed, it has dense, ripe blackcurrant and blackberry flavors with a dash of spice. 

Metz Road Pinot Noir Monterey Estate Riverview Vineyard 2019 ($36). From the Scheid Family of wines, this cool climate pinot noir offers elegant wild berry and cherry notes with a pleasant spicy and vanilla background. Very drinkable.      

Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Unfiltered 2018 ($75). Although expensive, this Newton red wine is reasonably priced considering its pedigree. A sumptuous deep and rich display of the classic cherry and cassis notes that you expect from a premium Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon. Soft approachable tannins make this fine wine a candidate for near term drinking, but it certainly has the legs for at least 10 years of aging.  
 

Virginia wineries making great strides

January 17, 2020

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR Recent discussion about the increasing quality of Virginia wines piqued our curiosity.  The state leads the Mid-Atlantic region in the number of wineries -- sixth behind Texas and New York yet not everyone has had the chance to taste these wines because they struggle to create a brand identity beyond their region.  

It doesn’t help that wine growers here battle variable weather patterns with sometimes brutal winters, scorching summers and perhaps the biggest scourge of all stifling humidity. High humidity creates favorable conditions for the endemic mildews that constantly threaten the vines and can destroy an entire vintage in days.  

We recently had the opportunity to taste three recent vintages from Early Mountain Winery, located among the rolling hills of central Virginia. Two grapes -- petit manseng and cabernet franc -- are increasingly recognized as important grape varieties in Virginia and were an important element in the wines we tasted. Both have the potential to become iconic representative grapes in Virginia’s future.   

Petite manseng is an unlikely white grape to star among other more popular and well- known Virginia grapes, such as chardonnay and viognier. Primarily grown in the Jurancon region in southwest France, petit manseng is a minor player among other indigenous white grape varieties grown there. However, Virginia winemakers increasingly are recognizing petite manseng’s potential perhaps encouraged by a Horton Vineyards Governors Cup award in with their 2016 Horton Petit Manseng. Petit manseng is known for its thick skins which help the variety resist disease in Virginia’s high humidity environment.   

The Early Mountain Five Forks Virginia 2020 ($26) is a delightful white blend made up primarily of 61 percent petit manseng and 32 percent sauvignon blanc and a dollop of chardonnay and pinot gris. The blend features a bright lemony nose with pear, apple and lemon notes in the mouth. Bright but balanced acidity make this wine a sure-fire winner with fish and poultry dishes.  

The Early Mountain Chardonnay Quaker Run Vineyard Virginia 2019 ($42) is one of the better examples of this varietal that we have tasted from Virginia. Floral and tropical pineapple notes dominate with a lovely medium-body, smooth texture and finish. Cabernet franc is the current darling of progressive Virginia winemakers, and the blend from Early Mountain seems to justify the interest. Early ripening adds a competitive edge in the relatively short Virginia growing season.  

Starring primarily in the Loire region of France, cabernet franc makes up the reds of Chinon and Samur Champigny. Cabernet franc also plays a supporting role on the Left Bank and often partners with merlot on the Right Bank where it creates lush, fruity St Emilions and Pomerols. 

The Early Mountain Foothills Virginia 2020 ($27) is a grab-bag of traditional Bordeaux varietals with cabernet franc leading at 43 percent. Merlot, cabernet sauvignon and petit Verdot follow in almost equal parts with a soupcon of petit manseng. This exuberant youthful red wine features a bright berry scented nose with an almost beaujolais-like experience with abundant cherry herb notes.  

Marsala 

Many consumers associate marsala with a chicken or veal entrée. Veal or chicken marsala, a standard on many Italian restaurant menus, describes a sauteed cutlet served with a rich, slightly sweet sauce made with marsala. While other wines, such as burgundy and sherry, are enjoyed equally on their own or added to sauces, marsala is rarely drunk as a beverage.   

Marsala, a fortified wine produced near the town of Marsala on Sicily, is most often made from indigenous white grapes, such as grillo, inzolia and catarratto. It is vinified in three levels of sweetness: dry, semi-dry and sweet. Aging and the types of grapes used also create varying colors ranging from golden to dark amber, as well as an uncommon red version made from red grapes.    

We recently were offered an opportunity to taste three marsalas specifically vinified for enjoying as a beverage, although they could also be used in many recipes.  

Florio is a well-known and respected producer of well-priced ($10-12) marsala that is widely used in home kitchens and restaurants for enhancing classic entrees and zabaglione.  

The Florio reserve marsalas were kissing cousins in style, color and flavor to the sherries of Spain and Madeira. We found the prices modest and competing favorably in price and quality to other European fortified wines.   

The wines were impressive stand-alone cocktails or dessert beverage. They marry well with colder-temperature cuisine.  

The dry Terre Arse Marsala DOC Riserva Vergine Secco ($20, 500ml) revealed a rich, very dry fino sherry character with notes of nuts and oranges, most appropriate for a pre-dinner cocktail or as an accompaniment to light, small plates such as nuts and cheese.   

The Targa Marsala DOC Superiore Riserva Semisecco ($20) was softer in the mouth with notes of almonds, dried fruit and orange. A tad sweeter than the Terre Arse, it was also darker in color. Overall, we felt this marsala would accompany and enhance a wide variety of winter meat entrees, ranging from chicken and turkey to roasted beef as well as a wide variety of cheeses. The Oltre Cento Marsala DOC Superiore Dolce ($20) is a dessert lover’s delight. It is noticeably sweet or similar to port in style. Dried fruits with an accent on dark and light raisins and a very smooth delivery make this the ideal accompaniment to desserts, including flans, crème caramel and fruit pies. It also is a great partner with rich cheeses such as stilton and gorgonzola. 

Wine picks 

Diora La Splendeur Du Soleil Chardonnay Monterey 2019 ($20). Winemaker James Ewart has ignored the more nuanced trend of restrained chardonnay and is unabashedly presenting a full throttle ode to hedonism in a wine bursting with tropical fruit notes, lusty toasty oak and 14.5 percent alcohol. So, if you are a fan of old style, in-your-face chardonnay, find this beauty and enjoy. DuMol Pinot Noir Sonoma County Russian River Valley Wester Reach 2019 ($78). DuMol produces bold pinot noirs that also manage to maintain balance. Elements of ripe raspberry, cherry and a hint of root beer dominate this rich luxurious pinot noir.  

Qupé Santa Barbara “Y” Block Chardonnay 2019 ($22).  A very good deal in chardonnay, this expressive wine is barrel fermented and aged to give it a lot of texture. Blended with a bit of marsanne and viognier, it has good citrus and pear notes with a dash of mineral and spice. 

Hamel making cabernet sauvignon the old way

January 10., 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

George Hamel III would not be the managing director of his family’s successful winemaking business had it not been for his father’s decision to leave Florida to pursue a dream.  

“I was in 5th grade and decided to play with our computer,” he remembered. “Dad left his resignation letter on the screen. Yeah, I was in 5th grade but I could still read. I yelled for mom.” 

Being uprooted from friends at that age could be traumatic, but it worked out pretty good for the now 37-year-old. He went on to earn an MBA degree and eventually made his way back to Hamel Family Wines where he works beside his younger brother, John, who serves as winemaker. 

Hamel Family Wines isn’t just another hobby winemaker. Located in the Moon Mountain District in Sonoma Valley, its four vineyards produce some of the most desired cabernet sauvignon in the valley with prices ranging from $48 to $225. These are the kind of collector wines more common in Napa Valley, which is just across a mountain range from the family ranch. 

Sonoma County is often overlooked for cabernet sauvignon even though the grape variety is the second most planted red grape. Alexander Valley may get all the attention in Sonoma, but Moon Mountain is gaining steam. It is home to the historic, 250-acre Monte Bello vineyard, owned by Gallo, that supplies grapes to Arrowood, Sbragia Family Wines, Hansel and other producers. 

George Hamel Jr. retired from a private equity firm and moved the family to California’s Bay Area in 1996. In 2006 they bought a house in Kenwood in Sonoma County to escape the hassle of San Francisco. The property came with an acre of cabernet sauvignon vine, but more were added. Their first vintage was less than 300 cases. Today, the operation produces about 8,500 cases with a goal to stop at about 10,000 cases. That’s small in the California market, but George Hamel III said it’s manageable.  

Until now a vast majority of the wines were sold directly to consumers through its club website. But as production increased and a desire to become more recognized, the family decided to open distribution channels to several states.  

All of the wines – 60 percent are cabernet sauvignon or red blends – are made from estate-grown grapes. The vineyards are organic and biodynamically certified. Hamel said dry farming forces the vines to dig deep for valuable nutrients.  Wines made in Moon Mountain are known for their acidity, something often lacking in over-wrought Napa Valley cabernet sauvignons. 

George III credits his brother, John, with the rising quality of the wine. He said John is obsessed to make the best wine possible from the Moon Mountain soils. He changes consultants every five years just to learn from a variety of experts. 

He also has introduced concrete tanks, a practice that is centuries old but gaining popularity in modern winemaking, to the fermentation and aging process. Proponents feel it keeps the wine fresh and preserves structure. George said it’s all about balancing oak, stainless steel and concrete to achieve better structure, soft tannins and more minerality.  

The success of this process was born out in the two Hamel wine we tasted. The 2018 Isthmus – a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot – burst with blackberry, cassis and graphite aromas. The mineral notes threaded its way through a broad palate of black fruit and juicy tannins. Thirty-one percent of the fermentation was in concrete tanks; aging was 17 months in concrete. The freshness of the fruit was remarkable. 

The same held true for the unblended 2017 Nuns Canyon Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. Although concrete was not used in the aging process, 65 percent of the fermentation was in concrete. Likewise, the fruit was fresh and the structured was well defined. This wine will age for more than a decade. 

Although many of the vineyards are on the valley floor, the 114-acre Nuns Canyon Vineyard rises 1,400 feet up a hillside.  

Hamel Family Wines also makes a zinfandel and two sauvignon blancs, one in a California style and the other, blended with semillon, in a Bordeaux style.  

Wine picks 

Chalk Hill Estate Red 2017 ($70).  Even with some additional bottle age, this blend of cabernet sauvignon, malbec and petit verdot is big. Sporting a heady alcohol of 15.6 percent, it packs a wallop on the palate with firm tannins, good acidity and dark fruit flavors. Generous blackberry aromas with a hint of tobacco.  

Priest Ranch Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($50).  This is actually a good value among Napa Valley’s usually expensive flock of wines. Using estate grapes from 24 blocks, the producer has created a multi-dimensional, complex wine.  Full-bodied, balance, loaded with dark fruit flavors and a touch of tobacco leaf. 

Zenato Alanera Rosso Veronese 2018 ($15). This wine made from Italy’s native corvina grape is an incredible value. Medium body and fruity like a beaujolais, it is an easy drink to serve as an aperitif or to accompany pasta, burgers and other such fare. Big cherry flavors. 

Zenato San Benedetto Luguna 2020 ($16). From Northern Italy, this fabulous white wine has citrus aromas and stone fruit flavors. Good acidity makes it a perfect aperitif or a wine to go with poultry and fish.  

La Valentina Montlpulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2018 ($15). Violet aromas are followed by strawberry and cherry flavors. Medium body. 

Ancient Peaks Chardonnay Paso Robles Santa Margarita Ranch 2020 ($20). A big mouth-coating, fruit-driven chardonnay from Paso Robles. Lucious pear, melon and pineapple fruit notes dominate with (thankfully) no discernable oak. A hint of spice creates some interest without intruding on the bountiful fruit.  
 

The first growths of Napa Valley

January 3, 2022

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

We have often imagined the panic Napoleon Bonaparte III caused in 1855 when he asked wine merchants to rank the 62 chateaus of Bordeaux. The idea was to showcase the best wines from the world’s most renown region in advance of an international expo, but there must have been considerable angst among the judges on which chateaus to include.  

Despite the pressure, the wine negociants declared only four chateaus as first growths -- Chateaus Lafite-Rothschild, Latour, Margaux and Haut-Brion. A fifth – Mouton Rothschild – was added in 1973, but with that exception the 1855 Bordeaux Classification has withstood the test of time. 

Nowhere else is there such a classification system that has endured the test of time. But, what if merchants – or master sommeliers – were asked to classify, say, the wines of Napa Valley. Which five would be classified first growth? 

We asked several merchants for their thoughts and the choices ranged from the historic properties, such as Chateau Montelena, Beaulieu Vineyards, Heitz and Ridge to relative newcomers, such as Screaming Eagle, Abreu, MacDonald, Colgin and Harlan. A consensus is impossible, but here are some thoughts to keep the conversation going: 

There are several Napa Valley pioneers who got the wine industry started, but their wines today are not the same as the wines they made in the mid-80s. New owners focused on the bottom line, new winemakers and new sources of fruit have lessened their appeal and complexity.  

New styles of winemaking have emerged as well. We remember those wines of the mid-80s and ‘90s. They were tannic, long-lived and winning awards when tasted against French counterparts. Let’s remember the 1976 Judgment in Paris in which Stags’ Leap Wine Cellars’ cabernet sauvignon was ranked better than Bordeaux grand cru in a blind tasting. 

Iconic Napa winemakers such as Andre Tchelistcheff stressed balance and elegance over power. These wines had good acidity and what winemakers often call “tension.” Unfortunately, these wines required age for the wine to shed its tannin, so to make their wines more appealing to consumers who wanted instant gratification, they softened them.  

Around the 1990, Napa Valley winemakers began to introduce new clones when they replanted vineyards. The new grapes were sugar factories. As the climate warmed to add even more sugar, the wines became more extracted, high in alcohol, low in acidity and jammy enough to lick off a knife. Some even had to add tartaric acid to provide balance.  

Although Europeans found California wines unbalanced, the new style gained footing thanks largely to American critics who lavished high scores on them. Today, these heady wines are garnering $500 to $1,500 a bottle.  Even producers of inexpensive wines infuse their wines with grape concentrate to make these sugar monsters. 

Never before have we seen so many cabernet sauvignons cost so much. Screaming Eagle, a poster child for excess, has a 10-year waiting list of consumers willing to pay $1,100 a bottle.  In the 2018 vintage, Colgin sells for $675, Dalla Valle for $450, Harlan Estate for $1,620 and Paul Hobbs for $500. Opus One raised a few eyebrows when it was the first Napa wine to set the price at $50 in the mid-1980s. Today it sells for more than $350 a bottle. These producers think of their wines as Napa first growths.  

We don’t get much opportunity to taste the uber-expensive wines from Napa Valley, but we found a few that are worth noting. 

Roy Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($265). Only 554 cases are made from vineyards on the volcanic hillsides of the Vaca Mountains in southern Napa Valley. Winemaker Philippe Melka unabashedly calls this a “grand cru’ because of its unique terroir.  Only 6 percent petit verdot is added to the cabernet sauvignon to produce ripe plum and dark cherry flavors with layers of herbs, baking spices and mocha. Good structure and tannins make it a wine for the ages. 

Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($175). This historic property has managed to maintain its reputation over the years. Although founded in 1882, the estate didn’t take off until 1968 when co-owners Bo and Jim Barrett hired Mike Grgich and replanted the vineyard. The 2016 has very opulent floral aromas with ripe, rich blackberry and plum flavors with hints of toffee and spice.  

Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($235). From vineyards that embrace green viticultural practices, this dynamic wine balances elegance with power – a fine needle to thread for a winemaker.  Supported by a nearly perfect vintage, winemaker Aron Weinkauf has crafted a wine with black cherry and plum notes with fine tannins and delicate floral aromas. This wine will last for more than a decade in the cellar. 

Coeur de Vigne Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($90).  Legendary wine consultant Andre Tchelistcheff advised his friend James O’Neil Sullivan to plant cabernet sauvignon on this 26-acre site in 1978. It has been producing grapes for some excellent wines since but the estate has made even better strides since it was purchased in 2018 by a family-driven group led by Juan Pablo Torres Padilla. This wine with classic structure is blended with merlot and malbec, which gives it more dimension and texture. Rich and ripe black cherry flavors, clove and pepper with oak-inspired hints of chocolate and vanilla. Tannins are round. Jeff Cole is the winemaker. 

Faust Napa Valley The Pact 2018 ($125). When the Huneeus family purchased this 121-acre plot in 1998, he created a buzz for this newly recognized Coombsville district. Benefiting from cooling breezes from San Pablo Bay, Faust has an expressive cabernet sauvignon without the need for any other grape varieties. Silky, elegant in style with currant and cherry aromas, dark fruit flavors and a dash of mint and cedar.  

Darioush Napa Valley Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($110). This is a full-bodied wine from vineyards in Coombsville and Mount Veeder. Black fruit notes, dense, tannic and showing hints of lead pencil and spice. A very solid performance from a well-respected producer. 

Duckhorn Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 2018 ($105). The Rutherford region remains one of the best and most historic regions for classic cabernet sauvignon. This wine shows off dense and juicy dark fruit flavors with good structure. 

Mathew Bruno Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($120). This is a producer worth watching if this full-body wine is any indication. Using grapes from a Ruthford vineyard that was originally planted in 1895, this cabernet sauvignon sees a lot of oak: 100 percent new French and American oak barrels. The best lots are selected after 22 months of oak aging. Classic plum and black cherry notes with layers of spice and herbs.  The Bruno label debuted in 2009.  

Brandlin Estate ThS Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($135). Named after owner Thomas Schmidheiny, the ThS is all cabernet sauvignon even though previous vintages have been Bordeaux blends. That says a lot about the winemaker’s confidence in cabernet sauvignon in 2018. These mountain-grown grapes have produced an extraordinarily powerful wine with floral, tea aromas and black currant, blackberry and boysenberry flavors. Long finish. 

Priest Ranch Snake Oil Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($110). Grapes from three special hillside blocks of the Somerston Estate were chosen for this very special cabernet sauvignon. Dense and layered raspberry and plum flavors with hints of cassis, cocoa and mineral.  Complex, full body and fine tannins. 

Traveling the world via a case of wine

December 27, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

We’ve been writing unabashedly about some terrific wines for the luxury consumer because the trends show people are spending more for their wine. Cooped up for a couple of years, they are looking for a reason to spend available money to find something pleasurable to offset their confinement. We get it.  But not everyone – even in the best of times – can afford $50 for a bottle of wine.  So, this week we offer something less expensive to relieve the boredom for those who have temporarily given up travel:  a round-the-world trip in 12 bottles. This makes for a great New Year’s resolution – try something new and learn more about wine. 

You don’t have to spend $100 for wines from Bordeaux, Barolo or Priorat. Instead, seek an adventure in learning more about a less known region and discovering an inexpensive wine you haven’t yet tried. Put together your case of discovery wines and do a little research. Learn about the local culture, the grape varieties and the food. If you can’t travel to these wine regions, you can explore them virtually through movies and books. 

Instead of giving you specific wines you may not be able to find in your market, we’re going to suggest grape varieties in regions with an emphasis on diversity and adventure. We’re excluding the United States for this trip just for an exotic getaway. 

Let’s start demystifying France, the country most people associate with expensive wine. That may have been once the case but today there are as many values to be found in France as there are in the United States.  

Not everything in Bordeaux is expensive. Ignore the grand crus and look for wines from the satellite districts such as Cotes du Bourg, Fronsac and Cotes de Blaye. Or look for “Bordeaux Superieur” or “Medoc” on the label. You can find a good Bordeaux for under $25. As asides, learn the difference between the Left and Right Banks. Read the fascinating history of the 1855 Classification or the Judgment of Paris tasting. Look for movies or YouTube videos for entertainment while you sip a glass. 

As for white Bordeaux, look for the semillon-sauvignon-blanc blends from Graves. We buy Chateau Ducasse by the case at less than $15 a bottle. It never fails us. 

Before you leave France – arguably the epicenter for wine – pick up a bottle of rosé from Provence and a riesling from Alsace. Provence rosés are among the best and generally costs less than $20. There is no better region for dry riesling than France’s beautiful Alsace region. A little research will yield a fascinating history of this region occupied by the Germans on several occasions.  For even more fun, make a batch of baeckeoffe, a regional specialty perfect for winter eating. 

With our case a third filled, let’s move across the border to Spain. There is a bevy of great garnachas and syrahs that deliver the same burst of flavor as a $50 pinot noir from Oregon. And they are great matches to grilled foods, chili or winter stews. For the best deals, look off the beaten track in regions like Campo de Borja and Jumilla. There also are good buys in the more well-known regions such as Rioja and Penedes but stay away from the expensive wines of Priorat. 

For Spanish white wine, go north to the Riax Baixas region to find albarino – a perfect match to oysters and other seafood.  With your glass full, read about the Camino de Santiago, an ancient path through villages and valleys that crosses northern Spain and is said to be the final resting place of St. James. 

Look to Italy next in your wine journey. Barolos and barbarescos are ridiculously expensive. Chianti can be inexpensive but the region producers a lot of inferior wine too. We suggest you look instead to Abruzzo for montepulciano reds or to Sicily for vermentino whites and nero d’avola reds. Learn more about Mt. Etna, the world’s most active volcanos, while you’re sipping one of these delicious, inexpensive wines. 

A trip around the world in wine would have to stop in South America. Chile makes some great sauvignon blanc for under $15. Argentina is known for its malbecs. Pick up a bottle from each of these locations. 

Our final stop would be in Australia and New Zealand. Australia makes some incredibly fruity shiraz and grenache – or blends of both grape varieties. New Zealand’s pinot noirs are pretty expensive, but its sauvignon blancs are often good deals if you like your sauvignon blanc a little grassy and tart. 

Here’s a summary of your case: 

France (4 bottles): Bordeaux red and white, Provence rosé, Alsace riesling. 

Spain (2 bottles): Jumilla garnacha; Riax Baixas albarino 

Italy (2 bottles): Montelpuliciano, Sicilian vermentino. 

South America (2 bottles): Argentina malbec; Chile sauvignon blanc. 

Australia/New Zealand (2 bottles): New Zealand sauvignon blanc; Australian shiraz. 

Dust off that visa, get your vaccinations and start packing. Happy trails! 

Wine picks 

Gundlach Bundschu Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2019 ($45). Cherry and cranberry aromas with a hint of vanilla. Ripe and juicy cherry flavors make this a delicious quaff and a versatile wine to go with just about everything you put on the table. 

Ram’s Gate Estate Pinot Blanc 2019 ($38). This wine was a pleasant surprise. Using three clones from three blocks of vineyards, the wine has a perfumy and citrus nose followed by pear and mandarin orange flavors. Tart and fresh, it’s a great aperitif or a wine to pair with citrus-based sauces. Very different. 

Faust Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($60). Full-bodied with relatively high alcohol, this dense and unctuous wine is built to be paired with beef or wild game. Ripe black cherries with hints of clove and herb. 

Sparkling wine: tis the season

December 20, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Between now and the end of the year many of us will be buying champagne or sparkling wine. In fact, most of these effervescent beverages are sold in the last few weeks of the month because consumers associate them with holiday celebrations. But any day should be a good day to drink champagne even if a birthday, promotion or wedding is not involved.  

Champagne producers have much to cheer about as they close out what is expected to be a record year in sales. Champagne’s surge in sales is due largely to a pent-up demand for luxury among people who grew tired of being cooped up indoors for two years. There’s nothing like bubbles to put you in the mood to escape boredom. 

The bubbles, as we’re sure you know, were initially considered a flaw by Benedictine monks who were frustrated when pressure from secondary fermentation burst the bottles. The Brits came to the rescue and invented a stronger bottle and actually perfected the process that the monks accidentally stumbled upon. The Brits experienced their own frustration:  England’s cold wine-growing region was not suitable for champagne. Ironically, that’s not the case today – global warming has created a booming market for English sparkling wine. 

Alas, supplies of French champagne have dwindled at the most critical time of the year. Like other imports, champagne has been held up by a congested supply chain and an increased demand. We’ve seen a scarcity of many popular brands, including the ubiquitous Veuve-Clicquot's yellow label. Many consumers were wise to scarf up their favorite champagnes early. 

Not everyone can afford champagne – the French are entitled to its name because Champagne is a region unique to them. But those of you who turn to California and Oregon will be surprised to find prices that are often higher than champagne. If cost is a factor, look to Spanish cavas and Italian proseccos. Even South Africa makes sparkling wine – the Graham Beck Blanc de Blanc sells for $20-30 a bottle. 

From California, we like J Vineyards, Domaine Chandon, Mumm Napa and Schramsberg. If prosecco is your pleasure, look for La Marca, Adami, Conegliano Valdobbiadene and Mionetta. 

Probably the best bargain and the biggest surprise is Gruet Non-Vintage Brut ($15). New Mexico is hardly the place you expect to find great sparkling wine, but Gruet has been getting awards since it launched in 1984.   

If champagne is your goal, look for Nicholas Feuillatte and Pommery, two reasonably priced wines. Otherwise, here are a few that will get your party started: 

Champagne Billecart-Salmon Nicolas Francois 2007 ($160).  We’ve been fans of this producer’s rosè for decades. It remains one of the most luxurious champagnes on the market. But this prestigious cuvee, made since 1964 in honor of its founder, takes luxury to another level.  Nearly 80 percent comes from grands crus and it spends 10 years resting on the lees. Intense aromas and ripe apple flavors with hints of toast and mineral. 

Champagne Louis Roederer Collection 242 ($60). This is the producer’s introduction to blends from multi-vintages. Roederer intends to release a new collection each year. Instead of seeking consistency year after year with its non-vintage brut, the new recipe takes the best from each vintage. In Collection 242, 56 percent comes from the 2017 vintage.  All three grape varieties are used to make a round, floral and juicy champagne. 

Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur NV ($55). A blend of 40 percent pinot noir, 40 percent chardonnay and 20 percent pinot meunier, this delicate but balanced champagne exudes luxury. 

Champagne Lanson Le Black Label Brut NV ($50). From a well-respected producer, this champagne uses all three grapes to create a smooth mouthfeel with ripe cherry and citrus flavors and a toast aroma.  

Champagne Bruno Paillard Multi-Vintage Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru ($80). Made entirely from first-pressed chardonnay grapes, this champagne has delicacy and finesse. It opens with grapefruit aromas and ends with citrus and apples. 

Champagne Laurent-Perrier Harmony Demi-Sec ($50). We add this slightly sweet champagne because it works perfectly at the end of the night by itself or with dessert. It’s a delicate but savory champagne with nutty flavors that will match well with pastries and similar desserts. 

Wine picks 

Villa Maria Earth Garden Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2020 ($17-20). Lemon and lime notes dominate with passion fruit elements that smooth out the citrus acidity. Smooth with a nice long finish.  

Mouton Cadet White Bordeaux 2020 ($17). Mouton Cadet -- especially the white version -- consistently offers great value for consumers. Citrus and herbal notes dominate the palate. We also liked the rosé version as well with its beautiful color and ample fruit available at the same price point. 

Ritual Pinot Noir Casablanca Valley 2017 ($17-20). A beautifully ripe pinot noir from Chile, this wine has strawberry and wild cherry fruit. An outstanding wine at a fair price.  

Windracer Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Bloomfield Vineyard 2018 ($75). There is a lot going on in this premium priced pinot noir. Ripe cherry, tart cranberry, cola and spice contribute to this wonderful package. Very good now but should age well for several years at least.  
Vietti Barbera d’Asti Barbera Tre Vigne DOCG 2019 ($18).  One of the best buys in Piedmont, this barbera is loaded with bright red cherry flavors.  Aged 14 months in French and Slavonia oak barrels, it has more complexity that most barberas. It’s a great wine to serve with tomato-based pasta sauces, pizza, burgers and more. 

Cattleya Belly of the Whale Pinot Noir 2019 ($85).  This Sonoma Coast pinot noir soared to the top in a small flight of California pinot noirs. We loved the bright and pure fruit character: tight black cherry and spice aromas with intense strawberry, plum and allspice flavors. The grapes are from a single, high-elevation vineyard. 

Aiken back to making cabernet sauvignon like it used to be made

December 13, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR    

There have been days when we have tasted rich, juicy California cabernet sauvignon and yearned for the time when it was more like Bordeaux – balanced, honest, tannic and absent of the high extraction and alcohol levels that have been a trend for far too long.  

Many California winemakers have yielded to consumer palates that favor sweeter wines that are so jammy they could be spread on toast. You can’t blame them. They charge a lot of money for these wines, get great reviews from renown wine writers and then sell out. Why shouldn’t producers make wines consumers are willing to pay stratospheric prices for? 

To make cabernet sauvignon like they did in the 1980s, it helps to have been around since then. You would have to be someone like, say, Joel Aiken.  

Three years after Aiken started at Beaulieu Vineyards in 1982, he became BV’s youngest winemaker. He stayed there for 28 years, learning from the great Russian émigré Andre Tchelistcheff and Michel Roland.  He was there when BV’s private reserve – Georges de Latour – was just beginning to hit full stride and American oak was favored over French. He was there to experiment with clones that made BV’s Carneros pinot noir so interesting. Those were great times for BV and for the Rutherford Bench. 

We’ve enjoyed the BV Georges de Latour since the 1982 vintage. Using grapes from the best properties in the Rutherford region, it was bold, classic, loaded with tannin and ready for decades of aging. It was hard to enjoy on release but there was a prize for those who patiently waited.  

Aiken retired in 2009, but not for long. He consulted for several wineries and then took a plum assignment consulting for Derek Benham at Scattered Peaks in Napa Valley. 

“I didn’t want to do this unless it was going to be high end and I could get involved in choosing the vineyards,” he said. “I’ve been around a while and know a lot of good vineyards. I was a kid in the playground.” 

Where did he go for grapes? Back to Rutherford, an area that supplied grapes for BV’s private reserve since 1936.  Aiken made an incredibly complex wine from the Morisoli Vineyard on the Rutherford Bench. And, just north of Pritchard Hill and south of Howell Mountain, he found Napa Valley’s Sage Ridge Vineyard, which Judy Jordan owns and uses for her fabulous Geodesy label.  

“We weren’t going for a soft, approachable wine,” he said. “We wanted to make wines with intensity and power.” 

The three reds we tasted from Scattered Peaks reminded us of that old style we so miss. The 2018 Sage Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($125) is from an unusual clone that does well in a mountain location. This wine has a softer mouthfeel with cherry notes and moderate alcohol. 

The 2018 Scattered Peaks Morisoli Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($150), on the other hand, is a monster. Firm tannins make it a wine to age.  It has black cherry, cassis and currants with a dash of that “Rutherford Dust” that makes this region so unique. 

More reasonably priced is the 2019 Scattered Peaks Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($40), probably the best cabernet sauvignon at this price that we have tasted in a long time. Like the cabernets of old, it has good structure with layers of red and black fruit and hints of cocoa, tobacco and black currants. Like the two single-vineyard wines, it needs to be decanted for at least two hours. 

Aiken said more and more winemakers, including himself, are dialing back the extraction and alcohol in search of a leaner style of red wine.  We can only hope to see this style return. 

He said he has privately tested a lot of these popular cult wines and their alcohol level is 16-plus percent despite the 14.5 percent being listed on their labels. He thinks these wines may have richness but they will “fall apart” as they age.  

“There is a middle ground we seek between old school and uber-rich,” he said. 

Scattered Peaks also makes a fume blanc from grapes grown in Pope Valley. The 2020 version is a steal at $20. With light oak aging, it has a nice toast character with pure lime and lemon notes, a touch of melon, tangerine and nuttiness. 

The name Scattered Peaks refers to a surfing condition when waves approach a shore and split. Benham surfs and skis. But it also refers to the snowy peaks around the world where he has skied and the scattered vineyards of Napa Valley. 

Beer club 

Tavour is a consortium of more than 600 independent breweries across the United States.  From its app you can choose the beers you’d like to try or you can join a subscription service.  No minimums or commitment.  It’s very simple and gives you access to a number of craft beers that you have heard about or tasted on some journey. 

We tasted a stout from Levante Brewing Co, a double hazy DIPA from Fair State Brewing, a double IPA from Bearded Iris Brewery and more. 

If you like wine and your spouse likes beer, this is a perfect compromise. 

Wine picks 

Ramon Bilbao Albarino 2020 ($16).  From the Rias Baixas region of Northern Spain, this juicy albarino with balanced acidity shows off granny smith apple flavors and pear aromas.  It’s a perfect aperitif or it will do well with seafood. 

J. Lohr Fog’s Reach Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir 2019 ($35). Always luscious and fruit forward, this reasonably priced pinot noir from Monterey County has bright red cherry fruit flavors with a slight hint of spice.  

Copain Wines DuPratt Chardonnay 2018 ($55).  This well-respected winery draws grapes from Anderson Valley to make two distinct chardonnays – Les Voisins and this DuPratt.  We liked this one in particular because of its special qualities that come from grapes grown on a small vineyard atop a ridge at 1,550 feet. It bares good acidity and austere character that make it a good match with food. The 2018 Les Voisins ($36) is equally notable. It has more opulent pear and apple notes. 

Banshee Pinot Noir Sonoma County 2019 ($28). A very consumer friendly pinot noir presenting deep rich and ripe black cherry fruit with a hint of cinnamon. Some new French oak aging. Very well balanced.  
 

Lebanese brothers find Bordeaux in Paso Robles

December 6, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

There are few winemakers who have a success story that can top that of Daniel and Georges Daou, brothers whose eternal bond formed in warn-torn Lebanon as kids and held together through challenges first in France and then the United States. Their success story is one of remarkable perseverance, defiance and self-confidence. 

When civil war broke out in Lebanon in 1973, the Daou house in Beirut was the first to be hit by a missile. Daniel was hit in the face and heart with shrapnel; Georges went into a coma for 48 hours. When the war escalated, their family fled to France where the brothers, according to Daniel, “had to fend for ourselves and watch each other’s backs every day.” 

“Not too many brothers are blown up in a terrorist attack when they were 8 and 12,” he said. “That really helps you form a bond that is unbreakable. Nothing comes between us.” 

The brothers would eventually earn engineering degrees at the University of Southern California and invested the last of the family savings to form a successful company that brought integration technology to hospitals. But it was their passion for wine – ignited by Bordeaux tastings with their father – that drove them to take a new path. 

They set off looking for the ideal location to plant a vineyard whose grapes would achieve the same results as that of Bordeaux. One would think their compass would take them to Napa Valley, ground zero for premium red wine. Instead, it took them to a mountain top not far from the Pacific Ocean in the Adelaida district of Paso Robles where they launched DAOU Family Vineyards in 2007. Although others vehemently disagree that only in this particular soil can Bordeaux-like red wine be made, Daou is insistent. 

“As an engineer you tend to take a different approach,” Daniel said. “To me it was very simple. The question I asked myself before I made a decision was if a perfect condition did exist to grow Bordeaux varieties, other than Bordeaux, what would it look like? And the answer was very simple as well. It comes down to one word: terroir.”  

Terroir is a combination of soil and climate widely considered a key influence to great wine. Daou said it’s on the hillsides of what is now DAOU Mountain where the calcareous clay soil, like that of Bordeaux, can be found. Daniel said the top layer of clay and the limestone subsoil underneath combines to give bouquet, color and flesh to the wine. The limestone allows for dry farming – Adelaida is blessed with 22 to 24 inches of annual rainfall, nearly twice as much in Paso Robles city.   

Daniel said the calcareous clay soil allows him to make natural wines that don’t have to be supplemented with tartaric acid and cultured yeast. He doesn’t have to macerate grape skins to add phenols nor do his grapes struggle to reach phenolic ripeness. The grapes, not the winemaker, do the talking. 

It’s much cooler here, thanks to a 2,200-foot elevation and a distance of only 14 miles from the ocean. He said it’s 5 to 7 degrees cooler than downtown Paso Robles. The difference explains why Rhone varietals do so well in central Paso Robles, but cabernet sauvignon is king in a much cooler western Paso Robles. 

His red wines, which account for 98 percent of the portfolio, consistently earn 96-plus scores from critics. He achieved this not by getting a degree in oenology and viticulture, but on the job training. 

“I had mentors in Bordeaux and Napa 14 years and went through two Davis (University of California) textbooks,” he said.  

His education was measuring phenolics, chemical compounds found in the pulp of grapes that determine taste, color and mouthfeel in wine. Those compounds include tannin, which gives wine its longevity.  

“Out of the 700 cabernet sauvignons we tasted, we have not found anything remotely close to what we are making on this mountain,” he said. 

Unlike wineries elsewhere in California, Daou does not press his grapes and instead uses only free-run juice. His barrels have tighter grains at his insistence, which means the tannin in his wine comes from the grape skins and not the barrels. They are not over-extracted or plump with sugar, characteristics he said offends foreign palates. 

You can’t fault the Daous for being bullish about their 200-acre vineyard, but there are many Napa Valley winemakers who would strongly disagree that only here can Bordeaux-quality wine be made. That includes Joel Aiken, long-time winemaker for Beaulieu Vineyards and current winemaker for Scattered Peaks in Rutherford. When we asked Aiken if you need calcereous soil to make Bordeaux-like wine, he said, “Hell, no. The Rutherford Bench has a little history.” 

Indeed, legendary producers such as Staglin, Caymus, Beaulieu, Peju and Grgich call Rutherford home. These soils are marine sedimentary deposits with some volcanic material.  Oakville’s To Kalon – perhaps the most respected Napa vineyard that serves some of the most respected producers – lies on large alluvial fans. Hillside vineyards, such as the famous Pritchard Hill, consist of poor and rocky volcanic soils. There are many that will judge these wines among the best in Napa Valley and as good as Bordeaux. 

Not all soil in Bordeaux is the same. Gravel soil dominates the Left Bank; clay and limestone dominate the Right Bank.  

The top iconic wines in Napa Valley that achieve the highest scores sell for stratospheric prices ranging from $500 to nearly $2,000 a bottle. Daou’s top wine – Soul of the Lion – sells for $150 a bottle. We tasted the 2018 – a blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petit verdot aged 22 months in new French oak -- and it lived up to its billing. It was powerful yet elegant. 

“Our reserve cab is $50 and is higher in phenolics than 99 percent of luxury cabs sold in California,” he said. “So, the consumer is able to get a bottle of wine for $50 that will age longer and has more phenolics and more minerality.” 

The 2018 DAOU Family Vineyards Reserve cabernet sauvignon we tasted had generous black cherry, cassis and plum aromas with plum and kirsch flavors and interesting nuances of sage and mocha. The 2019 DAOU estate cabernet sauvignon ($95) was elegant with the mineral notes Daniel talked about. The Wine Advocate rated this wine 94 to 96 points. 

DAOU also has a Discovery cabernet sauvignon that sells for a reasonable $30. 

Wine picks 

Tenuta Tascante Buonora Etna Bianco 2020 ($21).  Tasca d’Almerita is one of the old winemaking companies in Italy and produces wines from cool-climate vineyards on the slopes of Mount Etna. This one, made entirely of indigenous carricante grapes, is delicious with brisk acidity and lemon/lime notes. Good weight on the palate and a dash of mineral. 

Herdade do Rocim Amphora Alentejo DOC 2019 ($18). Aged in amphora with no temperature control, this fantastic wine delivers a unique experience by using a blend of mereto, tinta grossa, trincadeira and aragonez grapes. Right, you never heard of them. Lush, full bodied, aromatic and loaded with forward plum and black cherry flavors. Soft tannins make it an easy quaff. 

Vietti Roero Arneis 2020 ($24). We continue to be impressed with the often forgotten indigenous grape varieties from Italy. Here the local arneis grape makes a vibrant white wine with citrus notes, refreshing acidity and lingering finish. 

Something besides wine to give this holiday

November 29, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Enjoying wine was once a simple experience of uncorking a bottle and pouring it into a goblet that mysteriously seemed to work fine no matter what its shape. But as wine became more popular, there have been clever people inventing a better mousetrap.  A glass for every grape variety, battery-powered corkscrews, carafes to let the wine breathe, aerators, preservation systems and coolers – there is always one more accessory you have to have. 

Last week we offered suggestions of wines to bring to a party, buy for a host or to put underneath the Christmas tree for the wine enthusiast in the family. Unlike ties and sweaters, wine is a good fit for most people. But not every gift has to be an expensive wine.  

Here are some alternatives to a bottle of wine: 

Chiller 

Our favorite gift to give this year is the Huski Wine Cooler ($70).  Not only is it attractive, but it doesn’t need to be first chilled in the refrigerator. It won’t cool wines but it will hold their temperatures for six hours. Take a bottle out of the refrig or wine cellar and you won’t have to worry about the wine warming up.  We’ve bought several these as gifts. Available on Amazon.  

Wine devices 

If someone in the family or friend circle has old wines in his cellar, he will cherish the Durand wine opener ($145). It’s an improvement to the ah so wine opener that forces two blades down the side of the cork. The Durand is a no-fail, two-part system that removes the most fragile corks. We’ve seen it in use on several 40-year-old bottles and never did it break a cork. 

Wine books 

“Wine Lover’s Bucket List” by Simon Woolf ($37). The author has 1,000 adventures he wants to share for people looking to hit the wine trail.  From festivals to biking tours in Europe, Woolf entertains and informs. 

“Wine Folly: Magnum Edition” by Madeline Puckette and Justin Hammack ($20) is a perfect “next step” for people looking to learn more about wine.  Very easy to understand and insightful. 

“On California – From Napa to Nebbiolo...Wine Tales from the Golden State” (Academie du Vin Library, $45) by the late Steven Spurrier. This collection of best works by one of the world’s most respected wine writers, “On California” showcases past, present and future stories of California wine told by international wine writers. Elaine Chukan Brown writes about drought and fire. Clare Tooley explains why there would be no winemaking in California without the Pacific Ocean. Elin McCoy explains the difference between Napa and Sonoma County. We have thoroughly enjoyed this book in the last week. 

Games 

If you’re into games and wine, consider “Sommify,” a board game invented by sommeliers in training for their Level II exam.  Players bring a bottle of wine from an approved list and the other players guess the grape and country of origin. 

Stocking stuffers 

The Tribella wine aerator ($40), an attractive device that fits into the neck of the bottle and deposits the wine into a glass through three stainless-steel tubes. Made by a small family-owned business in Portland, Oregon, the device is drip-free and easy to clean.  It’s available on Amazon or at William and Sonoma. 

The Repour Wine Saver ($10 for a 4-pack) was invented by a scientist. Unlike other preservation devices, the Repour does not displace the air trapped in an open bottle. The Repour eliminates oxygen through material inside the stopper – metals that sacrificially rust from oxygen and thus spare the wine.   

You can get multiple uses from one of these, but there is no warning when they are exhausted. Never leave one out of a bottle after it is used because it will just suck the oxygen out of your room until it dies.  

RePear is supposedly a scientific drink mix, including dihydromyricetin, that helps the body recover from hangovers.  It’s available for $5 a pack or $35 for a box of eight packs at www.RepearDrink.com. 

An option is not to drink so much. 

Gerard Bertrand 

For 12 years Gerard Bertrand worked alongside his father, Georges, at the Villemajou Estate in Corbieres.  His father died in an accident and Gerard retired from his rugby career to take over the reins. From his father he learned the art of blending, a common practice in this part of France, and today Bertrand has 16 estates in Languedoc-Roussillon.  

We recently tasted several of his wines during a Zoom program with Andreas Larsson, judged to be the 2007 Best Sommelier by the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale. 

Domaine de l’Aigle Chardonnay Limoux 2020 ($35). You get a lot of Burgundy for the price in this impressive bottle of chardonnay. With chalky soils and cool nights, the wine has a mineral component and fresh acidity with apricot and white peach notes. A nice hint of hazelnut and toasted coconut too. 

Chateau L’Hospitalet Grand Vin Red La Clape 2018 ($45). Generous tropical fruit aromas with pear and apple notes, hints of flint and citrus. 

Cigalus White Pays d’Oc 2018 ($45). Chardonnay is blended with viognier for the aromas and sauvignon blanc for the acidity in this unique wine. Ripe grapefruit and peach flavors, silky finish. 

Domaine de l’Aigle Pinot Noir Haute Valee de l’Aude 2019 ($35). Cloaked in a burgundian style, this pinot noir is driven by new oak and has aging potential. Cherry and raspberry flavors with a hint of spice and clove. 

Cigalus Red Pays d’Oc 2018 ($50). It’s hard to categorize this wine because of its variety of grapes: cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, syrah, grenache, caladoc and carignan. The result, though, is a delicious wine dark fruit flavors, soft and fine tannins and dried herbal aromas. 

Wine picks 

Pierre Cabernet Franc Cite de Carcassonne 2020 ($15). We really enjoyed this unique wine from a beautiful United Heritage Site in France’s Languedoc region. Matured in concrete tanks, it has fresh but rich red berry flavors, a lingering finish and sumptuous mouthfeel. 

Alma Rosa Sta. Rita Hills 2018 ($30).  We like the chardonnays from this cool microclimate region of Santa Barbara County. The fog-drenched mornings cool the grapes and provide good acidity. Melon and tropical fruit dominate the aromas with citrus flavors and long finish. 

Gift ideas for the host, family….or yourself

November 22, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

It’s that time of the year when we head off to holiday parties, agonizing over what to wear or, worse, what wine to bring. Perhaps you will be gathering around a lavish family dinner when the host will put out her favorite bone china with carefully selected wines. Or, perhaps the get-together will be a more intimate gathering for which you have volunteered to bring a “nice” wine, meaning an “expensive” wine.  

Choosing a wine always poses a dilemma for large parties. Do you bring a wine you would like the host to open so you can at least taste it – or do you bring a wine that will be hastily placed in a corner with the other gift wines to be opened on another day?  

A while ago, Tom went to a rather large holiday party armed with an expensive cabernet sauvignon from his cellar for the host. He had hoped it would be opened so that others could enjoy its unique qualities – his mistake. Alas, it was quickly placed alongside a hoard of other gift wines, most of which were far less expensive.  The next year he returned to the house for another party only to find his special bottle being poured indiscriminately alongside Menage e Trois. The host had accumulated so many gift wines that it made economic sense to just dump them at another party.   

From that experience he learned a couple of lessons: first, assume your wine will not be opened by the host that night. That alone could determine how much you want to spend. Second, if the host saves your wine for a special occasion later, make sure they know who it is from by writing a short message with your name on the label.   

We, too, have gathered wines at the end of our own party only to wonder who brought them once they are separated from their bags.  Most guests, we found, don’t even put their names on the bags. Write your name on the label – unless you’re embarrassed by the wine!  

What are good hostess gifts? Champagne is ideal because few people want to spend $50 on it, but they are glad to drink it if someone else does. Alas, champagne is in short supply this year with Veuve Cliquot especially hard to find. Reasonably priced champagnes include Pommery, Nicolas Feuillatte and Moet-Chandon. If you want an amazing sparkling wine, look for the inexpensive Gruet rosé from New Mexico. 

French rosé, such as those from Gerard Bertrand or Domaine Ott, make wonderful gifts too. 

Avoid sweet wines from your trip to North Carolina or something weird made from, say, bananas no matter how much you like it. 

Beaujolais is a very versatile wine that won’t set you back and is a delicious pairing for Thanksgiving turkey. Look for a village cru, such as Morgon, Fleurie or Moulin-a-Vent. 

There are some great, inexpensive French wines from the Cotes du Rhone that are well under $30. Some producers to look for include Janasse, Chapoutier, Guigal and Chateau St. Cosme. If you can spend a few bucks more, consider a red wine from Gigondas or Vacqueyras.  

There are many inexpensive wines from Bordeaux that cost far less than most Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon. Consider the wines from the satellite districts that aren’t quite so famous. We like Chateau Les Trois Croix from Fronsac. 

If white wine is your pleasure, look to Graves for delicious sauvignon blanc and semillon blends. We buy Chateau Ducasse by the case and it never fails to please. 

If your host has a trip planned to Italy, you can find some inexpensive barbera from Piedmont and chianti from the 2016 vintage is phenomenal no matter what the price.  

Do you want a wine that will make a statement – a luxury wine that will leave an impression? Here are some recommendations that are sure to draw a few “wows:” 

Ladera Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($75). Sourcing grapes from Howell Mountain estate vineyards, Ladera has a blockbuster wine. There is a lot of power and density with ripe blackberry and cassis flavors with hints of plums and spice. Supple tannins make it approachable in its youth but clearly it has a long road ahead of it. 

Newton The Puzzle Napa Valley 2018 ($125). Newton has been producing this special edition since 1992 and remains focused on the noble Bordeaux grape varieties grown on hillside vineyards on Spring Mountain and Mount Veeder. Very concentrated and rich in style. Plum, blackberry and mineral notes. 

Atlas Peak Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($50). Rich and ripe black cherry and blackberry notes with a dash of cocoa powder and spice, long finish and velvet mouthfeel. 

Gamble Family Vineyards Family Home 2016 ($130).  Using grapes from its 3.5-acre vineyard, Tom Gamble and winemaker Jim Close have made an impressive cabernet sauvignon. So confident are they in this Oakville wine that no other grapes go into the blend. Because the knoll-top vineyard faces two directions, the grapes are picked at different times and aged separately in French oak for 20 months. It opens with strawberry and herbal aromas. Very concentrated and structured to assure longevity with strawberry and cherry flavors and hints of tea and tobacco. Gamble’s 2016 cabernet sauvignon ($60) is a Bordeaux-blend that is more approachable in its youth but still complex and age-worthy. 

Cuvaison Adda Pinot Noir 2019 ($80). Using three special clones, winemaker Steve Rogstad as crafted an opulent, extracted pinot with black cherry notes, fine tannins and remarkable aromatics.  

Blackbird Vineyards Contrarian Napa Valley 2017 ($135). Using grapes from three elite vineyards – Stagecoach, Ballard and Crocker & Starr, this savory blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot exudes luxury. Plum and black cherry flavors dominate the palate and includes layers of cedar, mocha, vanilla. 

Goosecross Branta 2017 ($65). This is a juicy and extracted blend of zinfandel, petite sirah and cabernet sauvignon from Napa Valley. Dark fruit notes with lots of spice, color, and rich mouthfeel. 

Big pinot noirs that will satisfy Thanksgiving crowd

November 15, 2021

BY TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

In last week’s column we offered a dozen recommendations for inexpensive pinot noirs that would do well with the traditional turkey dinner. This week, we ratchet up the offerings to more expensive pinot noirs that would not only complement turkey but also special dishes such as duck, pork, pasta and even lamb. 

Inexpensive pinot noirs are generally light and medium body, which makes them a good match to a neutral food such as turkey. Expensive pinot noirs are concentrated, complex and more tannic because they spend time in expensive French barrels. The grapes often come from single vineyards recognized for producing quality fruit. 

Given their cost, they are more suited to small groups when a single bottle will suffice. Or, they make good gifts for the host. Just encourage the host to open the bottle for dinner so you don’t miss out on the pleasure of drinking an expensive wine. 

Enjoy these 10 luxury pinot noirs from the superb 2019 vintage: 

Darioush Signature Russian River Valley 2019 ($85). This is an exotic wine with floral aromas, fresh cherry, cranberry and plum flavors with fine tannins and hints of sage, thyme and cedar. 

LaRue Emmaline Ann Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018 ($75). We liked the earthy, forest floor notes of this Sonoma Coast pinot noir. Its delicacy reminds us of a burgundy – deceivingly light in color but elegant and lingering. Noticeable cranberry flavors supplement the generous cherry notes. A good match to cranberry sauce. 

FEL Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir 2019 ($75). Aged 16 months in large French oak barrels, this wine from multiple clones leans more toward the dark red fruit. It has a lot of enticing herbal and baking spice notes to make it complex. 

Sanford Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2019 ($45).  A steady, top-notch pinot producer since Terlato bought it in 2005, Sanford has stepped up its quality after bringing in winemaker Trey Fletcher. He built his reputation as an influential winemaker at Littorai Winery and later at Bien Nacido Vineyards. The Sanford is a balanced wine from its estate Sanford & Benedict and La Rinconada Vineyards. Very bright and fresh fruit character with cherry, strawberry and cranberry notes.  

SIMI Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2019 ($45). Broad aromas of strawberries and toffee are followed by plum and earth flavors with a hint of spice.  

Sosie Spring Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017 ($45). From the Sonoma Coast, this delicious and juicy pinot noir draws grapes from three unique clones. Generous red berry aromas with raspberry, cherry flavors and hints of forest floor and a smooth, seamless texture.  

Gary Farrell Russian River Selection Pinot Noir 2019 ($45). This Russian River Valley producer can be relied on to make consistently balanced and exquisite pinot noir. Sourcing grapes from several top vineyards, Farrell creates a more layered, nuanced wine with bright cherry, cranberry and herbal flavors, hints of earth and cola.  Generous rose and violet aromas. Silky tannins.  

The Hilt Estate Pinot Noir 2019 ($50). You definitely get what you pay for in this exquisite pinot noir from Sta. Rita Hils. Expressive in the nose and mouth, it has effusive red berry notes and a good dose of spice.  

Ram’s Gate Bush-Crispo Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2018 ($75). This boisterous cuvee takes grapes from four different lots at harvest and shows tantalizing floral, spice and anise aromas followed by black cherry flavors. Dense and lingering on the palate. 

Flowers Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2019 ($55). Violet aromas with bright cherry and raspberry flavors and an earthy, forest-floor feel. 

Wine picks 

Not everyone likes pinot noir or chardonnay, so here are some alternatives for the holiday feast: 

Ferraton Pere & Fils Cotes-du-Rhone Samorens Rouge 2019 ($16). We loved this equal blend of grenache and syrah, a nice soft approach to the holiday meal. It’s a great sipper but it is versatile enough to go with just about anything you put on the table for the holiday feast. Ripe and juicy blackberry, raspberry notes with a hint of black licorice and dried rosemary.  

Chauvet Freres Morgon Cote du Py 2020 ($25). The gamay noirs from Beaujolais are great matches to turkey and all its traditional side dishes.  They are generally very fruity and medium bodied, although this Morgon from old vines grown on a hill has tannin and complexity. Vibrant and juicy raspberry and cherry notes with a hint of clove. 

Sanford Rosé of Pinot Noir 2020 ($20).  The price is right for this exquisite rosé made from pinot noir grown in the Sta. Rita Hills. Classic strawberry and citrus aromas with juicy strawberry flavors and balanced acidity and a hint of mineral. We put it against a well-seasoned, grilled pork loin and it was a perfect match to the spice. But it will do well with turkey or served as an aperitif. 

Getting read for the Thanksgiving feast with pinot noir and chardonnay

November 8, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR  

As we head into the holiday season, we should stop and count on blessings. The last two years have been challenging for all of us – devastating for the families of those who lost loved ones to COVID.  Giving thanks is literally at the root of Thanksgiving. Let’s not forget to do that when we sit down at the dining table 

We give thanks to our loyal readers who have nourished us for more than 32 years of writing this column. And, as is traditional at this time of year, we recommend wines to pair with the typical feast of turkey and all the trimmings.  

This year we focus on pinot noir and chardonnay, versatile wines that complement the neutral flavors of turkey but also marry well with side dishes ranging from sweet to spicy. Next week we’ll offer suggestions for some very special, albeit expensive, pinot noirs for those of you who are having a smaller dinner or who wish to bring a nice gift for the host. 

While next week’s more expensive pinot noirs are complex, extracted and often tannic, this week’s pinot noirs are relatively simple because they don’t see the same kind of oak aging and are not from grapes culled from top vineyards. They are lighter and arguably more suited to a neutral food like turkey. 

Here are a dozen pinot noirs that won’t disappoint for the price: 

La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2019 ($25). We have a friend who prefers this wine over all others and we can see why. For the price --- often seen for far less – you get a melangê of red berry flavors. It’s simple but oh so delicious. 

Marques Casa Concha Pinot Noir 2019 ($25). Another good value in pinot noir, this Chilean version has strawberry aromas and flavors of cherries and raspberries with a dash of licorice. Simple yet delicious. 

Ritual Casablanca Valley Pinot Noir 2017 ($20). This organic wine from Chile represents a good value in pinot noir. Floral, violet aromas with bright cherry and raspberry flavors. Silky in texture and medium body. 

Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Pinot Noir 2019 ($20). Balanced and loaded with bright black cherry fruit and a bit of spice. It has an earthy profile too. 

Bogle California Pinot Noir 2019 ($11). Bogle makes good wine for the price in every category. This fruit-forward, juicy pinot noir has blackberry, blueberry and cherry flavors.  

Benziger Monterey County Pinot Noir 2019 ($20). You can count on this biodynamically farmed property to produce a clean, pure wine year after year. We liked the herbal aromas and complex raspberry and plum flavors. 

Erath Oregon Pinot Noir 2019 ($19). This producer can be counted on to make a reliable pinot noir year after year. Lavender and anise aromas give way to a variety of flavors that include cranberry, cherry and plum. 

Olema Sonoma County Pinot Noir 2019 ($20). Made by Amici Cellars, this pinot noir from several Sonoma appellations is a winner year after year.  Floral, rose petal aromas with lively red fruit flavors, hint of cinnamon and a seductive mouthfeel. 

Head High Pinot Noir 2019 ($20). Bill Price III of Three Sticks fame and other top-drawer properties is among the names behind this upstart from Sonoma County.  The partners have in common surfing and a sense of adventure, hence the name. It’s just a pretty wine with balance and elegance. 

Landmark Vineyards Overlook Pinot Noir 2019 ($27). One of the best values in the pinot noir market, this wine uses grapes from Monterey, Santa Barbara and Sonoma counties.  Its medium body and supple red berry flavors make it a versatile match to holiday fare. Hints of vanilla and cooking spices. For a few bucks more, try the delicious and bolder Landmark Grand Detour Pinot Noir that sources grapes from the producer’s Hop Kiln Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast. 

Baileyana Firepeak Pinot Noir 2018 ($30). From the Edna Valley, this exciting and balanced pinot noir shows off juicy cherry flavors with lingering notes of cinnamon. 

Girasole Mendocino County Pinot Noir 2019 ($16). Simple but juicy red cherry flavors with lavender aromas. 

Chardonnays  

If you prefer to have white wine for your traditional turkey dinner, we recommend chardonnay. Here are a few to consider: 

Balletto Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2017 ($29). You get a lot of complexity for the price but not a lot of overpowering oak. We liked that.  It’s good structure makes it a nice match to turkey or it serves as an inviting, pre-dinner sipper.  

Head High Chardonnay 2020 ($24).  A great value, this crisp and pure chardonnay from Sonoma County shows off a piercing lemon/lime aroma and a refreshing mix of pineapple and grapefruit flavors.  One of our favorite chardonnays in recent tastings. It’s no wonder that Bill Price III of Three Sticks and Kosta Browne is involved in this new project.  

FEL Savoy Vineyard Anderson Valley Chardonnay 2019 ($52). From the cooler end of the valley, this extracted and complex chardonnay was fermented and aged for 18 months in French oak puncheons. Citrus aromas with pear flavors and a healthy dose of exotic spices. 

Sanford Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay 2019 ($35). A big wine for the price, the Sanford chardonnay has ample, fresh pear and stone fruit flavors. 

Baileyana Firepeak Edna Valley Chardonnay 2018 ($28). The creamy texture of this delicious chardonnay is an ideal match to gravy, potatoes and even turkey.  Citrus aromas with vibrant pear and pineapple flavors. 

The Hilt Estate Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay 2019 ($50). The rough terrain of this fog-covered region gives unique flavors to the wines from this reliable producer. Full bodied with opulent apple and exotic tropical fruit flavors with hints of spice and a lingering finish. 

Wine pick 

Imaginary Friend 2019 ($28). This Sonoma Coast product of the inventive Anarchist Wine Co. is a delicious blend of mostly chardonnay and viognier.  Ample melon and peach notes with a round texture. 

Try these great wines from Italy’s Pasqua

November 1, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Quick, what is the most productive wine region in Italy? Many would guess Tuscany where chianti leads the parade. But it’s not. Piedmont, the home of the famed barolo and barbaresco? Nope, it’s the Veneto. The home of the reds of Valpolicella and whites of Soave produces 18 percent of all Italian wine. Tuscany comes in 6th place and Piedmont ranks 7th. 

Hemingway was an ardent valpolicella enthusiast. After enduring two significant plane crashes in Africa, he claimed valpolicella as an integral element in his recovery. Valpolicella is also featured by Hemingway in one of his more obscure books, “Across the River and Into the Trees,” published in 1950. The novel featured valpolicella as the main character’s ample tipple of choice.  

The Veneto, near the town of Fossalta Di Piave, is also where in 1918 the teenage Hemingway was injured by an Austrian mortar shell while serving as a volunteer ambulance driver for the Italian army. Hemingway’s wartime Veneto experience is thought to form the basis for his breakout novel “A Farewell to Arms” in 1929. Valpolicella is primarily made from three red gapes: corvina, rondinella and molinara. Four styles of valpolicella range from age-worthy amarone and recioto, a sweet dessert wine, to regular valpolicella and ripasso, which are generally meant for current consumption. The introductory valpolicellas provide a pleasant, uncomplicated experience and is generally priced less than $20.  

Priced a bit higher, ripasso is valpolicella that is mixed with the spent skins and seeds from amarone production to create a bolder, more complex wine. For amarone, the fully mature grapes are harvested and air-dried for up to three months, shriveling the grapes and concentrating the grape liquids. The resulting wine is concentrated and complex with higher alcohol.  

Recioto is also made from air-dried grapes but with the fermentation process halted before all of the grape sugars are consumed by the yeast. It is thus a sweet dessert wine. We recently tasted a selection of wines of the Veneto from Famiglia Pasqua, a three-generation family owned and operated winery. We sampled a valpolicella and amarone from them as well as two excellent IGT selections that skirted the traditional Valpolicella DOC rules but implemented some of their traditional techniques.  

The Famiglia Pasqua Passionsentimento Bianco Veneto IGT 2019 ($18) is a fantastic wine and a good value. Crafted from lightly dried garganega grapes, which are traditionally used to make soave, this example presents citrus with intense pear and peach notes that present a very round experience and a very long finish.  

The Passionsentimento Rosso Veneto IGT 2019 ($19) also uses desiccated grapes after they lose 30 percent of their water, which concentrates the sugars in the remaining grape must. Corvina, croatina and merlot make up the blend, which reminds one of a well-made ripasso at a fraction of the price. Fresh cherry and dried cherry notes dominate.  

We also tasted the Pasqua “Mai Dire Mai” (which means “never say never”) Valpolicella Superiore DOC 2013 ($50-60). Pasqua has wisely aged this wine so that it is in a beautiful spot right now. This valpolicella presented baked plum and cherry notes with hints of cedar in the finish. Very full, rich and mature with a flavor profile similar to a well-made Rioja reserva. The grapes for the Pasqua Famiglia Pasqua Amarone della Valpolicella 2016 DOCG ($50) were air-dried for three months before pressing. The finished wine featured sweet cherry notes with a hint of roses. Very fresh smooth and long lasting in the mouth. 

Flat Top 

We recently tasted several wines from Flat Top Hills being made by “G4,” the fourth generation of the pioneering C. Mondavi family.  Consulting winemaker Angelina Mondavi has teamed up with head winemaker Randy Herron to make reasonably priced wines under the broad California appellation. The primary growing region is in the Dunnigan Hills in Yolo County. Their fruit-forward style makes them easy to drink and versatile with simple foods. 

Flat Top Hills California Chardonnay 2020 ($14). Medium body with fresh tropical fruit aromas and apple flavors with a touch of lemon curd and vanilla. Simple but elegant for the price. 

Flat Top Hills California Red Blend ($16). Medium bodied with perceptive spice notes and black cherry, raspberry flavors.  It’s an easy drink that matches well a variety of fare or it can be enjoyed by itself. 

Flat Tops Hills California Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($16).  Medium body with rich black cherry, some plum flavors and a dash of cocoa powder. Smooth mouthfeel. 

Italian wine picks 

La Valentina Pecorino 2019 ($18). Pecorino is the grape variety often forgotten in the Abruzzo region of Italy yet here it excels. It is aged on the lees to add some weight and complexity. Pear and tropical fruit notes. 

Enrico Serafino “Grifo del Quartaro” Gavi di Gavi 2020 ($17). Simple yet fresh with balanced acidity. Made from the local cortese grapes, it has citrus and peach notes.  

Inama Carbonare Soave Classico DOC 2019 ($28).  Using the native garganega grapes grown from a 50-year-old vineyard, this soave has good body and palate length. It sees no oak so the fruit is pure and fresh with citrus notes and brisk acidity. 

12 great merlots to celebrate October

October 27, 2021

BY TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Merlot has suffered a lot of abuse over the years, but talk to Frank “P.J.” Alviso and it’s one of his favorite – albeit most challenging – grape varieties. 

This being Merlot Month, we spoke to Alviso because as vice president of Central Coast winegrowing for the vast Duckhorn portfolio, he has a good pulse on the merlot market. He manages grape sourcing for Duckhorn, a Napa Valley producer that never gave up on merlot in spite of flagging sales. Before joining Duckhorn in 2006, Alviso worked at Kendall-Jackson and grew up on a 400-acre vineyard in Amador County. 

While many vineyard owners have ripped up merlot vines because of waning interest, Duckhorn is looking for more. Merlot has suffered in a public perception over the years, but the decline may be because the grape variety is difficult to grow. Alviso said when demand for merlot was rising, the “gatekeepers” were forced to grow it in areas they didn’t like to satisify the public’s thirst for merlot. Quality went down and many dropped the program – it was a “thinning the herd,” Alviso said. Today, those who are making good merlot have zeroed in on the best areas and growing conditions. 

“Merlot is fundamentally trickier to grow,” he said. “It’s a more finicky varietal than cabernet sauvignon which has less vintage variation and can deal with weather issues better than merlot. The French have known that for a long time.” 

We went through more than a dozen merlots in the last few weeks and still found a lot not to like. Duckhorn Estate and its special Three Palms Vineyard merlots are exceptions. Mountain-grown merlot often produces the best, most long-lived merlot but most producers favor growing cabernet sauvignon in these choice locations.  La Jota Vineyard’s extraordinary merlot is from Howell Mountain; Mt. Brave is from Mt. Veeder. Unfortunately, you’ll spend a lot of money to enjoy these merlots. 

Here are a dozen interesting merlots we recently tasted: 

Seavey Napa Valley Merlot 2018 ($65).  Bill and Mary Seavey bought this historic Conn Valley vineyard in 1979 and since then have gained a reputation for making small-lot merlot, cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay. Only 450 cases are made of this well-balanced and age-worthy merlot. Generous strawberry and coffee aromas give way to fresh strawberry and raspberry flavors with layered nuances of vanilla, clove and rosemary. Good but fine tannins. 

J. Lohr Creston Vineyard Paso Robles Merlot 2018 ($40). Blended into this jammy, fruit-forward merlot is 11 percent malbec and 1 percent cabernet sauvignon. Red fruit aromas with raspberry and strawberry flavors accented by tea, mocha and cranberry. 

Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot 2018 ($56). This reliable producer has one of the most luxurious merlots in its Three Palm Vineyards version ($110), but the Napa Valley estate version is approachable, balanced and delicious. Unlike many merlots with muscular tannins, this wine can be enjoyed on release with fare such as short ribs and beef.  Cherry aromas with layered plum, kirsch and blackberry flavors and a hint of cloves. Long finish. Duckhorn also makes a Stout Vineyard merlot. 

La Jota Vineyard Napa Valley Merlot 2018 ($85). Winemaker Chris Carpenter takes advantage of the Howell Mountain fruit to craft a bold merlot that is blended with a bit of petit verdot and tannat. Although it shows promise for a long and illustrious future, the wine has approachable plum and blackberry fruit character. Nice dried herb aromas and long finish.  

Mt. Brave Napa Valley Merlot 2018 ($85). Also made by Chris Carpenter but using grapes from Mt. Veeder, this merlot is lusher with forward, concentrated black cherry and cassis flavors with hints of cedar. Very delicious. 

Rutherford Hill Napa Valley Merlot 2019 ($35). Blended with cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, petit verdot and syrah, this wine has generous blueberry and blackberry notes with a good dash of soothing kirsch and a hint of vanilla. Rutherford’s 2018 Oakville merlot ($62) is a powerful wine with more complexity and tannin. 

J.O. Sullivan Founder’s Reserve Napa Valley Merlot 2018 ($290). This blockbuster merlot comes at a high price but it shows what kind of merlot can emerge from the Rutherford AVA. It’s densely packed with plum and blackberry fruit with hints of chocolate, cedar and vanilla. It puts definition to full body. 

Cakebread Cellars Napa Valley Merlot 2018 ($55). Black cherry and blackberry notes dominate this medium-bodied and fruit-forward merlot. Hints of graphite and black licorice. Moderate tannins make it quaffable on release. 

Frank Family Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot 2018 ($45). The producer is back in the merlot business after a long respite and consumers should be happy. Some cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc help make this merlot complex but also juicy with generous blackberry flavors. 

Decoy Merlot 2019 ($35). Drawing grapes from Sonoma County, this medium-body merlot is deceivingly complex. The floral nose seems simple, but on the palate there are layers of blackberries, plums, raspberries and hints of vanilla and spice. The tannins are soft, thus making it a versatile wine to go with pasta, veal, pork and burgers.  

Silverado Vineyards Mt. George Vineyard Merlot 2018 ($40). Smooth and easy, this medium-body merlot has black fruit flavors and hints of mint and chocolate. 

Matanzas Creek Winery Alexandar Valley Merlot 2018 ($40). Dark fruit notes with hints of black licorice, olives and leather. Grapes from high elevation to render a medium body but serious merlot. 

Halloween 

Flora Springs makes two wines with Halloween themes that unlike many gimmicky labels are actually very good.  

The 2019 Flora Springs Ghost Winery Malbec ($60) is smooth and round with ripe blackberry flavors and a hint of cocoa. It’s really one of the best malbecs we’ve tasted from Napa Valley. 

The Flora Springs All Hallow’s Eve Cabernet Franc ($60) is dense and unctuous with dark fruit flavors and a hint of mocha. Every year general manager Nat Komes commissions an artist to create a unique label for the wine. This year the artist was Marc Sasso from New York who has worked with Marvel and Topps Comics. It’s of witches dancing in the moonlight, brewing a wine potion.  

Wine picks 

Primus The Blend 2018 ($19). This is a broad blend of cabernet sauvignon, the native carmenere, syrah, petit verdot and cabernet franc. From the Chile’s Colchagua Valley just 15 miles from the sea, it has a velvet texture with raspberry and strawberry notes. 

Veramonte Chardonnay Casablanca Valley Chile 2019 ($12).  This is a very reasonably priced chardonnay from Chile that will please a crowd. Simple tropical fruit and apple flavors, good structure and a soft mouthfeel. 

What’s in your wine besides grape juice?

October 18, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

History shows that humans are very inventive when it comes to making something better. The auto industry is a good example: power windows, power brakes, electric cars and now cameras, self-parking, self-driving, GPS and more. The same goes for the beverage industry. 

Wine was once a simple matter of crushing ripe grapes and letting wild yeast convert sugar to alcohol. But then wine turned to vinegar and ancient winemakers knew they had to add something to preserve the wine from spoilage. And so began the intervention of chemists who invented new means to alter a wine for the better: sur lies aging, malolactic fermentation, racking, cold-soaked fermentation.  And if the grapes don’t ripen as well as expected, there are more tricks. Bugs or downy mildew? There’s a spray for that. Too much alcohol? Add water. Not enough color? Add grape concentrate. Not enough acidity? Add tartaric acid. Too sweet? Add tannins.  

In fact, a lot of chemical additives are allowed in wine, which is the source of great controversy among “natural” wine proponents who want labels to include ingredients.  With more people discovering what’s really in their Flaming Hot Cheetoes, why wouldn’t they want to know what’s in that cheap Menage e Trois chardonnay?  

Unfortunately, wine producers are only obligated to tell us that wine contains alcohol and sulfites. If legislation is ever passed to change that, consumers could see such ingredients as potassium ferrocyanide, copper sulfate and ammonium phosphate. Should you be worried? 

Many purists think you should. Most recently, Cameron Diaz teamed up with Katherine Power to create a “clean” wine called Avaline. Clean is another word for organic. Scout & Cellar calls its line-up of organic wines “clean-crafted.” 

We have mixed feelings about the natural wine movement. On one hand, why wouldn’t you want a wine free of pesticides, artificial fertilizers and those funny sounding chemicals? On the other hand, we’re consuming that in food products every day and the alternative can be more disgusting. 

Purists are also living a hypocrisy. Alcohol is as strong a toxin as any of these chemicals, yet we don’t see them embracing alcohol-free wine.  

We’re in favor of organic wine from biodynamic vineyards because in general the fewer chemicals are better for us and better for the Earth. But the wine still has to taste good and a good number of the natural wines we have tasted don’t. We don’t think consumers will like their cheap plonk if producers remove Mega Purple, a grape concentrate, that has been added to give the wine deeper color and more sugar. Nor would they be happy if the wine soured on the second day because the producer didn’t add any sulfites. 

Then there is the issue of GMOs. Many wine producers use cultured yeasts instead of the natural yeasts that cling to grapes. These modified commercial yeasts add different flavors, but more importantly they allow a winemaker to control fermentation. Even grape vines are genetically modified to create versions that are more resistant to pests and disease. But vines already have been genetically modified over time. Cabernet sauvignon is a cross between cabernet franc and sauvignon blanc; chardonnay is a cross between pinot noir and gouais blanc. 

The terms in this movement sow confusion. Only “organic” is defined by law. Every other term, including “natural,” is vaguely defined by marketers and well-meaning winemakers. 

Scout & Cellar, for instance, is an intriguing business in organic wines. It uses a lab to test every wine it sells for chemicals.  It says none of the wines it sells contain any of the FDA-approved additives, including Mega Purple and genetically modified organisms. Their wines have low sulfites, a natural-occurring ingredient of wine. 

All of this terminology is enough to give you a headache – and that’s exactly what prompted Sarah Shadonix to leave law and launch Scout & Cellar. The headaches she got from drinking wine, she concluded, were a result of the pesticides and chemical additives in wine. She scouted the world to find wines – mostly from small producers – that lab testing shows are free of chemicals.  

You won’t find Scout & Cellar’s wines in stores. You may find them in your neighborhood, though, as did we. There are thousands of at-home consultants who will process your orders and get the wines delivered to your house. Or you can go to their web site: scoutandcellar.com. No stores, no middlemen, no fancy marketing.  

More and more wine producers are moving to sustainable farming and chemical-free wines. Whether the great wine producers will follow is another matter. 

Blackbird Vineyards 

Some extraordinary blends are coming from Blackbird Vineyards in Napa Valley. Although pricey, these premium blends reflect the character that we have grown to expect from Napa Valley, especially in the hands of talented winemakers Aaron Pott and Kyle Mizuno. They are helped by sourcing grapes from some of the regions’s top vineyards: Stagecoach on Vaca Mountains, Ballard on Spring Mountain and Crocker & Starr in Rutherford. 

We enjoyed the Blackbird Vineyards Illustration, a blend of 49 percent merlot, 28 percent cabernet sauvignon and 23 percent cabernet franc.  

Equally bold in style is the Blackbird Vineyards Contrarian, a blend of 70 percent cabernet sauvignon, 29 percent cabernet franc and 1 percent merlot. 

Wine picks 

Sea Slopes Fort Ross Winery Pinot Noir 2019 ($35). A reasonably priced wine for this category, the Sea Slopes pinot noir draws grapes from the Sonoma Coast. Made by Jeff Pisoni, it has bright raspberry and cranberry aromas, cherry flavors with some herbal notes and long finish.  

Avalon Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($11). This is one of the best values in the cabernet sauvignon market today. True to the region, it has jammy and ripe plum and blackberry flavors with a hint of vanilla. 

Chateau des Ferrages Roumery Cotes de Provence Rosé 2020 ($20). From the respectable house of M. Chapoutier, this rosé is a classic blend of grenache, cinsault and syrah. Very vibrant and racy with strawberry and mineral notes. This wine rocks.  

Here are some answers to your questions

October 11, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

We always love your questions, whether you’re looking for a special bottle of wine or you are confused by a label. Keep them coming. Here are a coupler of questions that may resonate with you: 

I got into red wine in the ‘90s. I fell hard for quality $10 values like Napa Ridge Cabernet, Penfolds Koonawarra, Estancia Cabernet, and all the Gallo of Sonoma lineup. The '97 vintage was incredible all around. 20+ years later I have to spend $20 to get something remotely as good as what use to be $10. It's not inflation, it's the quality of what's in the bottle. It also tastes like every supermarket wine under $20 is heading toward Apothic... sweet with smoky oak. I'm getting what I call "honey mustard" a lot as well. Is it the wine or have my tastes gotten way more selective? 

Where do we start with this excellent question? We bet your tastes have become more selective. But the wine industry has changed dramatically since the 1990s and, thus, so has the wine. Sweet red wines like Apothic Red weren’t as abundant then – wines were refreshingly dry. Cheap, red wines are quite common now and, like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re going to get.  

Napa Ridge and Estancia, once made by family-owned wineries, are now part of large corporate wineries. Instead of the wines being made from grapes grown on their estates, they are now made from grapes grown in the vast holdings of corporations. Often these vineyards are in less favorable locations or a blend of locations. That Estancia wine you remember from the 1990s was made by Franciscan using grapes from their estate. We doubt that its current owner, Constellation, is using grapes from the same vineyard today. 

There is also a dirty secret that many winemakers use Mega Purple, a grape concentrate that enhances a wine’s color but also rounds off harsh tannins and adds sugar. Although we will never be sure until winemakers are required to list ingredients, we swear we can taste a wine that has this concentrate. We’ll be writing about this in a later column. 

Now, as far as costs go, wine is subject to the same gravitational pull as any product. French barrels, for instance, has doubled since the 1990s. An acre of prime vineyard in Napa Valley cost $200,000 five years ago. Today it cost as much as $1 million, if you can find it.  Having given winemakers an excuse for charging more for their plonk, it’s really about demand. They’ll charge whatever then can get. Some winemakers charge over $300 for a cult cabernet sauvignon and sell out every year! 

We suggest you look to Spain, Portugal and South America where winemakers haven’t succumbed to the sweet wine fad.  We like Evodia and Las Rocas, each selling for about $12, and Bodegas Breca from the Aragon region of Spain. It’s an old-vine grenacha you can find for around $17.  

Should I feel obligated to share an expensive bottle of wine I’ve brought to a BYOB party? 

In a recent “Miss Manners” column, a writer complained that she and her husband often join a group of friends for dinner at a local restaurant.  The waiters pour house wine to the guests, but she often buys a more expensive bottle for she and her husband to enjoy. However, some of her friends ask them for a glass of what is obviously a better wine. The writer is annoyed and asks columnist Judith Martin for advice. 

Martin didn’t condone the obnoxious behavior but suggested the writer endure the house wines and save the special wines for dinner at home.  

That’s sound advice and it got us to thinking about the number of times we have been in similar situations – tail-gate parties, picnics, crab feasts and even restaurants that allow BYOBs.  Some people bring $10 wines or bring nothing at all, then hold out their empty glasses to us. 

If you don’t know the crowd or it is larger than a bottle can satisfy, bring a reasonably priced wine. Hiding your special bottle and not sharing violates social etiquette. Don’t do it. 

Tenuta di Arceno 

We recently tasted three chianti classicos from Jackson Family Wines’ Tuscan outpost, Tenuta di Arceno, founded in 1994. Located in the most southernmost region of Tuscany, the estate produces classic chianti classico as well as wines from the IGT classification which allows international grape varieties. 

The Tenuta Di Arceno Chianti Classico 2018 ($25) is crafted from 85 percent sangiovese and 15 percent merlot grapes and presents youthful fresh fruit notes of fresh cherries. The merlot softens the sangiovese acidity to make a very agreeable package.   

The Tenuta Di Arceno Chianti Classico Riserva 2017 ($30) on the other hand displays a deeper, richer qualities with softer and riper plum and cherry fruit notes. It is 90 percent sangiovese and 10 percent cabernet sauvignon. Very elegant.  

The Tenuta Di Arceno Strada al Sasso Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2017 ($50) is the result of a new chianti classico designation implemented in 2014. This new classification is a level above riserva and requires slightly higher minimum alcohol levels and 6 months more aging than riserva. Tenuta Di Arceno is sourced from one vineyard on their estate and is 100 percent sangiovese. The result is a complex chianti classico featuring fresh and dried cherries and plums with hints of earth and leather. 

Wine picks 

Tbilvino Saperavi Red Dry 2018 ($15).  From the country of Georgia, this delicious wine – if you can find it – offers ripe fruit flavors. Made from the indigenous saperavi grapes. 

Clean Slate Riesling 2019 ($13).  We were intrigued by this partnership between Moselland of Bernkastel-Kues of Germany and Winebow. From the Mosel region, the wine is low in alcohol and slightly sweet like many rieslings from Germany. The fresh peach and apricot flavors are spiked with notes of spice and mineral. It’s a good sipper or a wine to pair with spicy oriental foods and seasoned chicken. 

Ram’s Gate Estate Pinot Blanc 2019 ($38). Using three clones of grape varieties, this delicious and fresh pinot blanc from the Carneros region has spicy aromas and pear flavors. Although it may seem light to the palate, it’s quite elegant and makes for a perfect match with seafood. 

Your next best sparkling wine? England

When you think of champagne, you probably think first of the French. After all, Champagne is a unique location that owns the name; everything else is sparkling wine. And, you probably remember reading that it was a French monk who accidentally invented champagne to the delight of the Brits. Right? Wrong! 

The French may have a firm grip on Champagne, but they don’t have a grip on the history of how champagne is made and slowly they are losing some of their grip on the best made sparkling wine. Don’t look now, but the British are coming. 

First, a little history. It was an English scientist – not a Benedictine monk named Dom Perignon -- who invented the secondary fermentation so unique to sparkling wine. Second, it was the English – confounded by exploding bottles of their favorite wine – who invented a stronger bottle that kept the industry alive. Despite all of these milestones, one thing that has eluded the Brits is its ability to make sparkling wine. That is, until now. 

Global warming is shifting the ideal climate for sparkling wine about 200 miles north. Southern England has sprouted many new wineries focused primarily on making sparkling wine. In fact, about 70 percent of the wine made in England is sparkling wine – a dramatic development that couldn’t have happened without improved temperatures.   

Arnault Brachet, who’s firm ABCK markets Chapel Down in the United States, said “the south of England now has similar average temperature and sun exposure as Champagne about 40-50 years ago.” 

The United States is now Chapel Down’s top export market even though it launched only four years ago. Other English sparkling winemakers – Hattingley Valley, Nyetimber and Gusborne – also are reporting brisk sales here. The awards these wines are getting in international competition are proving that British sparkling wine can compete with champagne. 

In fact, we recently put a Nyetimber blanc de blanc in a tasting of French champagne and sparkling wine from other countries. By far, the British sparkling wine was the favorite – and most participants declared it to be champagne. We also have enjoyed Nytetimber’s multi-vintage Classic Cuvee and its multi-vintage rosé, both similar in style and equal to champagne.  

It’s not just the weather that is drawing comparisons to champagne. English winemakers are using the same three grape varieties – chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier – for its sparklers. They are using the same traditional winemaking -- known as methode champenoise – and have the same limestone soil.  

Nyetimber, in particular, can be found in many top restaurants.  Founded by Stuart and Sandy Moss of Chicago in 1988, it was the first to plant the three champagne grapes. Eric Heerema, who bought it in 2006, recruited new talent from Canada. Winemaker Cherie Spriggs and her husband Bard Greatrix actually asked for the job when in search of a new challenge they saw the potential in English sparkling wine. 

Spriggs was the first female and the first person outside of Champagne to be chosen as Sparkling Winemaker of the Year at the 2018 International Wine Challenge. Nyetimber has won gold medals in international competitions for every vintage since 2006. 

Brachet finds English wine to be “drier, fresher, fruiter,” a comparison we heard from others on both sides of the English Channel. 

While the Brits are reveling in global warming, champagne producers are growing concerned. As temperatures slowly rise in northern France, most producers are no longer dosaging their wines to tame acidity levels common to under-ripened grapes. For the same reason, they are using less malolatic fermentation – a process to convert harsh malo acids to softer lactic acids. These changes are historic in a region rooted in tradition. 

Simon Robinson, owner of Hattingley Valley winery of Hampshire and chairman of WineGB, said the success of English sparkling wine is denting champagne’s foothold in Great Britain. Like they’ve done in other regions, French champagne houses – Pommery and Taittinger -- have launched operations in South England.  

Robinson said that move is vindication for England’s sparkling wine industry, which was once a joke. 

Alas, English sparkling does not have an edge on prices. Nyetimber ranges from $60 for its Classic Cuvee to $250 for its rare Prestige Rose Cuvee. Chapel Down and Gusborne sell for $50 to $80 a bottle. 

These prices will discourage many consumers who may prefer to choose a known quantity over one not so well known. However, they will be shocked by the quality of English sparkling wine if they want an adventure. 

Get your champagne now 

If you plan to host a party this holiday season or have something to celebrate, you should buy your favorite champagne now.  

Champagne officials are predicting a worldwide shortage of French bubbles toward the end of the year. Part of the reason is that demand for champagne, particularly in the United Kingdom, has bounced back with gusto. Tariffs placed on champagne by former President Trump depressed sales in the United States, which meant more of the product being sold in the UK. But U.S. sales picked up in the spring as consumers were re-emerging from the pandemic. Now, the U.S. in back to stocking up at a time when producers were reducing production in anticipation of a long-term slow down. Yields in 2020 were intentionally lowered by the Committee Champagne. 

The shortage will benefit prosecco producers and even sparkling wine producers from the West Coast, who face no product shortage. 

We suspect that consumers are tired of the pandemic, no matter what its risk, and will find reasons to celebrate this Christmas season. Those with the ability to pay higher prices will indulge in prestigious champagne no matter what the cost. — if they can find it. 

Wine picks 

Daou Paso Robles Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($60). If you like your cabernet sauvignons with a good dose of chocolate, this one is for you. Ripe blackberry and cassis flavors with silky tannins, a dash of spice and a bit of garrigue.  

Gotas de Mar Albarino 2020 ($21). Bright citrus and pineapple notes with balanced acidy and round finish.  

Sosie Spring Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017 ($45). This Sonoma Coast pinot noir comes from three clones of grapes grown in difficult soil on the western side of Petaluna. The aromatics are intense with red fruit notes and a dash of spice. Flavors include plums and earth. 

 Portugal offers some of the best values in wine

September 20, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Portugal is offering some of the best deals in wine nowadays. Although not always made with familiar grapes varieties, consumers will be rewarded with simple yet delicious fruit flavors for reasonable prices. 

Particularly notable are the wines from the Alentejo region, a hot area long dismissed for its undistinguished wines. Producers here have access to a dizzying array of 250 indigenous grape varieties. Red wines dominate the region five-fold.  

Here are a few wines from Alenteo and other parts of Portugal that we recently enjoyed: 

Adega de Borba Red Reserva 2015 ($18). This is a lovely blend of trincadeira, alicante bouschet, aragonez and castelao grapes. Ripe blackberry and plum notes with a dash of chocolate and a soft mouthfeel. 

Cartuxa Red 2016 ($25). Aragonez, alicante bouschet and trincadeira go into this complex blend that is aged 12 months in French oak and then aged in bottle for another nine months before being released. Cherry and strawberry flavors with truffle aromas and firm tannins. You get a lot for your money here. 

Casa Relvas Herdade de Sao Miguel Colheita Seleccionada Red 2017 ($15). We loved the broad aromas and texture of this red blend of alicante bouschet, touriga nacional, syrah and cabernet sauvignon. Very good value. 

Quinta da Fonte Souto Branco Alentego 2019 ($25).  We enjoyed this refreshing and unique white wine from Portugal. Made from the local arinto and verdelho grapes, the wine has a nice mineral note with soft and luscious grapefruit flavors that coat the palate. Hints of vanilla and lichee. If you like chardonnay, you’ll like this alternative. 

Valados de Melgaco Reserva 2017 ($15). This fruity and expressive white alvarinho from Portugal has ripe apple and stone fruit flavors.  

Quinta Da Fonte Souto Branca Portalegre 2018 ($25). Portalegre is part of the Alentejo wine region in Southern Portugal. Crafted from 75 percent arinto and 25 percent verdelho white grapes, this complex wine is barrel fermented, kept on its lees and aged in French and Central European oak barrels. The resulting very stylish wine is a tremendous value and somewhat akin to a well-made French white burgundy. Tropical fruit and citrus elements dominate in a very interesting and complex white wine.         

Vale do Bomfin DOC Douro Red 2019 ($13). We have harped on the amazing values emanating from the Duoro region for some time now. Here is another winner. A terrific value at $13 and discounted further at some locations, this red table wine though not overly complex, sports fruity cherry notes with a hint of oak. Crafted from touriga franca, touriga national and a slew of other indigenous varieties. 

Prats and Symington 

Prats and Symington, a winemaking star of the Douro Valley in Portugal, crafts red table wines that have brought acclaim to the region.  

The Symington family and Bruno Prats are world-renowned wine luminaries and recognized for their leadership roles crafting award-winning wines. Bruno Prats “made his bones” steering the much-acclaimed Bordeaux winery Chateau Cos D’Estournel in the Saint-Estephe region until 1998. The Symington family are the largest vineyard owners in the Douro Valley and own four of the most prestigious port labels: Dow’s, Graham’s, Warre’s and Cockburn’s.   

We recently tasted two red wines crafted by Bruno Prats and Charles Symington. They contain a majority of touriga nacional grapes along with other indigenous varietals. Both of these wines deserve consumers attention depending on the pocketbook.   

The P+S Post Scriptum de Chryseia Douro 2018 ($30) is a consumer-friendly red wine presenting bright cherry fruit in an uncomplicated manner with the slightest touch of oak. Uncomplicated but rewarding.  

The P+S Chryseia Douro DOC 2017 ($70) is a major step up, featuring plum and cherry elements in a very elegant soft package that allows for immediate consumption although aging would certainly benefit this delicious, harmonious wine. Its16 months of French oak aging contributed to producing this masterpiece.  

The Symington Family purchased the famed Quinta Do Vesuvio in the Douro in 1989. While continuing to produce port from these vineyards, the Symingtons have pursued crafting dry red table wines from the property as well. We recently tasted two of their current releases, both of which contain mostly touriga franca and touriga nacional grapes.   

The Quinta Do Vesuvio Pombal Do Vesuvio DOC Douro Red 2018 ($30) is a distinctively Portuguese dry table wine displaying plum and berry notes, a hint of mocha and medium tannins.  

The Quinta Do Vesuvio DOC Douro Red 2017 ($70-90) is a substantial step up in quality from the Pombal. This is a terrific wine displaying great structure, cherry and cassis notes with a nice spicy component. Delicious now this beauty can easily age for many years to come.   

 Quinta de Roriz was the first port to be produced as a single estate bottling and was offered for sale as early as 1851 in England. We tasted the Quinta de Roriz 2007 ($85) vintage port which was crafted from a field blend of indigenous grapes at the estate. Although only 14 years old, this port was very expressive and offered a fruit-forward style that many should enjoy. Cherry and berry notes dominate with some licorice elements and a hint of lime in the nose and finish. Not overly sweet. Although not he current vintage, it shows the aging potential for current releases. 

Wine picks 

Olivier Ravoire Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2017 ($19). We liked this racy, vibrant Rhone Valley blend of grenache blanc, clairette, viognier and roussanne grapes. Pineapple, grapefruit and apple notes with a citric edge and balanced acidity. 

Vigne Surrau “Surrau’ Rosso Isola dei Nuraghi IGT 2018 ($27). This is a unique blend of carignano, cannonau and muristellu grapes indigenous to Sardinia.  Medium body, generous red berry flavors. 

Sosie White Blend 2019 ($35). If you’re looking for something different in white wine, try this blend of roussanne, grenache blanc and marsanne. Expansive apple and citrus aromas with layered flavors and a dash of oak. 

A few undiscovered wines to get you into fall

September 13, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Sometimes you just need a kick start to get you out of a funk, whether it be a new COVID variant, a football loss or just the weather. As we transition into fall, we like to use the time to discover new grape varieties before we settle back into a routine of winter wines. If something different is what you seek to break the mood, this column is for you. 

Look to Europe to find your next daring wine if you want a unique dining experience, whether it be something to sip on the deck or pairing a home-cooked meal inside. These wines offer grape varieties unique to their country and are often value-priced. They are usually light and refreshing, a perfect aperitif or a wine to match with barbecued foods. If you can’t find these producers, just look for the region – the goal is to explore new areas. 

From Spain: 

Beronia Rueda 2019 ($12). One of the best values in white wine today, this delicious verdejo is perfect for sipping. Huge aromatics of freshly mowed grass and herbs are followed by white peach, orange and herbal flavors.  You will be hard pressed to find a better deal on the market today.  

Veiga Naum Rias Baixas Albarino 2019 ($18). The Rias Baixas region of northern Spain produces the best albarinos. This one has generous floral aromas and notes of apricot and apples. It is a perfect aperitif or a wine to pair with simply prepared fish. 

From Italy: 

Marco Felluga Molamatta Collio DOC 2015 ($26). The Collio Goriziano region in Friuli-Venezia borders Slovenia in Italy’s northeast corner. Four generations have been making wine for this estate since the 1800s. This interesting white wine is made up of friulano, pinot bianco and ribolla gialla grapes. Good concentration and acidity. 

La Maciarine Montecucco Rosso 2018 ($19).  The sangiovese in this delicious Tuscan wine is tamed with cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot to create a broadly flavored wine of floral aromas and intense cherry plum flavors.  You get a lot of wine for the price. It would pair well with hamburgers, ribs or pasta. 

Tenuta l’Impostino Montecucco Rosso DOC 2015 ($19). The blend here is 80 percent sangiovese with the rest made up of merlot, syrah and petit verdot. Rich plum flavors with hints of mint and tobacco.  

Casanova di Neri IrRosso Toscana IGT 2018 ($22).  This is a tasty blend of sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot. “IrRosso” translates to “our wine” and it’s certainly a unique blend. Floral, violet aromas with blackberry and currant flavors. Easy tannins make it a quaffable wine for simple fare from the grill. 

From Sicily: 

Tenuta Whitaker Mozia Grillo 2019 ($22). Aged three months on the lees in stainless steel, this unfiltered white wine is fresh and abundant in citrus and tropical fruit flavors with a touch of minerality. From the tiny island of Mozia on the western side of Siciily, grillo is grown on little, wind-swept bushes. Very unique.  If you like pinot grigio, you’ll like grillo. 

Capofaro Didyme 2019 ($26). Made entirely of Malvasia di Lapari grapes from the island of Salina north of mainland Sicily, it is aged four months on the lees in stainless steel. This white wine has unique flavors that may not appeal to all palates.  Floral aromas with peach flavors and a hint of almonds. 

Tascante Buornora Etna Bianco 2019 ($20).  This is an amazing, vivacious white wine from Sicily. Made from carricante grapes, it has peach and citrus aromas with pear flavors and tantalizing hints of mineral and lemon.  Great acidity and length. 

Surrau Limizzani Vermentino di Gallura DOCG 2020 ($16). Made entirely of vermentino grown on Surrau’s estate vineyards on Sardinia, this wine has stone fruit notes with crisp acidity and a touch of spice. 

Drink alternatives 

We don’t think we’ve ever seen so many alternatives to a bottle of wine. There are boxes and cans of your favorite drink, but now the spirits industry is focused on providing a convenient package that can be ported to a boat or picnic.  

We recently sampled an array of mixed drinks made BarBox. Brothers and cofounders Matthia and Jacob Kozuba grew up in a distilling family and came up with this party pack: 14 4-ounce cocktails in a bag-n-box. These ready-to-drink cocktails include the favorites: margaritas, negronis, gin lemonade, vodka sour and cosmopolitan.  They range in alcohol levels from 20 to 24 percent or about 40-50 proof. 

Having tried all of them – cosmo being our favorite – they serve a purpose. They may not have the quality level you find in a cocktail crafted by your favorite bartender, but they are convenient. If you use a mix for your margaritas, you won’t be disappointed. 

The boxes are recyclable and biodegradable. At $25 a box, that is about $2 a drink. 

Ron Rubin 

Ron Rubin, like many in the wine business, offers wines under a variety of labels. Probably best known for his consumer-friendly River Road brand, he also offers wines under his own name and other brands.  

Two of Mr. Rubin’s disparate labels are the Pam’s Un-Oaked Chardonnay California 2020 ($15), and the River Road Double Oaked Chardonnay Russian River Valley 2019 ($17). Both of these luscious chardonnays featured unctuous tropical fruit that clung to the taste buds. The main difference was that the River Road Double Oaked also displayed an oak-influenced honey spiciness that added complexity. Either one of these chardonnays will enhance your drinking experience, but choosing one depends on your preference for oak flavors.  

We also tasted a Ron Rubin Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2018 ($25). This larger-than-life pinot noir also created a mouth-filling experience that featured plums, cherries and a meatiness that will match any cuisine.   

Wine picks 

Argyle Reserve Chardonnay 2017 ($35). Using the best blocks of grapes from the estate’s three vineyards, this Willamette Valley producer has a solid, premium performance. White peach and lemon peel notes with spice and a dash of mineral. Long in the finish and balanced. 

Cuvaison Kite Tail Chardonnay 2019 ($50). Talented winemaker Steve Rogstad crafts a unique chardonnay by harvesting the same blocks two weeks apart. Made exclusively from the Old Wente clone of grapes, the separate harvests offer bright acidity and green apple notes while the other grapes harvested with more ripeness give the wine weight and stone-fruit flavors. It is ridiculously delicious. 

Stop fretting food and wine pairing

September 6, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR  

Pairing wine with food can be a daunting experience -- if you want it to be. Choreographing a dinner of  sea bass or a strip steak can take a lot of effort when to many guests the wine pairing really doesn't matter. We can't tell you the times we have pondered endlessly about whether to open an old Bordeaux or an earthy Rhone wine when it didn’t matter -- guests were solely focused on the food and conversation.  

That being said, a wine can either enhance a dish or overwhelm it. So, you want to give it enough thought that doesn’t tax the brain but gives a meal the splash you want. 

If you have a great wine you want to share, make it the centerpiece. Build your meal around the wine. For instance, if you have an aged white burgundy, serve a simple fish dish that will let the wine's delicate and fleeting features stand out.   

Abandon the convention that you should serve white wine with fish and red wine with meat. However logical, the rule of thumb is not absolute and it fails to take into account the preparation or sauce. Pork, for instance, is relatively neutral in flavor. Add a tart cilantro sauce and you have a wine challenge. Spicy sauces call for gewurztraminer while something more herbal would be better complemented by sauvignon blanc. Add a tomato-based sauce and you can shift to a light red, such as pinot noir or syrah.   

Fish follows a similar course. A rich, buttery sauce calls for a lush, extracted chardonnay; a citrus or herbal sauce is better matched by sauvignon blanc. Pinot noir does well with a simply prepared salmon or tuna steak.   

The weight of the wine and its texture is something totally ignored by most chefs. A barolo or cabernet sauvignon are heavy wines because of their dense fruit, tannins and alcohol levels. A rich, buttery chardonnay has a smooth, rich texture that can overwhelm a tart, simple sauce.  It is logical, then, not to serve these wines with delicate dishes. Clobber a Dover sole with a complex, oaky chardonnay and your guests won't taste the effort you put into your sauce.  

Other than rehearsing your dinner, how do know if a wine will be a good match?  Think regions. Wines from cooler, old-world regions tend to be lighter, more acidic and less alcoholic. Wines from new world regions – Australia, New Zealand and the U.S. -- are bolder with ripe fruit and big alcohol. These are the wines that require caution. Sure, that Oregon pinot noir may have cost you $80, but it's going to kill the salmon.  On the other hand, a simple Burgundy made from pinot noir would be perfect.  

Chardonnay is just as easy to predict. An unoaked, minerally chardonnay from Chablis is a safe match to delicate fish dishes; serve an oaky, lush chardonnay from Napa Valley or Australia and you are facing a likely disaster.   

You don't need to know the flavor profile of every wine. Just know the region and you will reduce your risk.  

The crowd also matters. We've been disappointed when guests pound down glasses of expensive pinot noir and never stop to think about it or comment. What wine you serve and how much you pay for wine should take into consideration the knowledge and appreciation of your guests.   

Wine matters more if you are planning a formal, sit-down dinner with eager guests who are looking forward to a gastronomical feast. However, if your care-free crowd is coming over for a backyard barbecue of ribs and burgers, why spend a lot of money on concentrated wines? Inexpensive wines such as zinfandel and syrah are basic, unadorned and fruity matches unlikely to draw objections.   

Wine sales staff are regularly asked for a wine recommendation for a particular dinner. It shows that chefs don't want to be embarrassed by serving the wrong wine with a dinner they are carefully planning. But understand that there is no single choice, but a myriad of wines that will do just fine.  All you need is to be in the ballpark. Abandon those old rules, use your intuition and buy what makes sense.   

 Wine picks 

Josh Cellars Reserve Firefighters Cabernet Sauvignon Lodi 2019 ($20). $1 from every bottle of this wine sold will benefit firefighting charities across the country. This is a big bold bruiser of a wine tailored for bold flavored dishes featuring red meat. Very ripe berry fruits dominate with a hint of licorice. Soft tannins allow for pleasant drinking now. Serve slightly chilled in warm weather months. 

Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2016 ($75).  One of the marquee wines of Banfi, this brunello is made entirely of sangiovese grapes and aged for a minimum of four years, including two years in oak barrels. Very hedonistic with floral and licorice aromas, dark and red berry flavors with a hint of spice.  

Inman Endless Crush OG Roséof Pinot Noir 2020 ($38). It’s no wonder this rosé quickly sells out. The wild strawberry and watermelon notes jump from the glass to enliven the palate. It remains a perennial favorite of ours. 

Look to Loire for sauvignon blanc

August 30, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

Arnaud Saget knows the challenge of getting wine consumers to adopt the Loire Valley as their favorite wine growing region. Even those consumers who enjoy sauvignon blanc may not know it’s a primary grape grown for centuries in the Loire Valley. But amongst the growers in this region of France, Saget’s family has done well in promoting the family brand, Saget la Perrière.

For the last 40 years the company has operated under Jean-Louis Saget and now his two sons Arnaud and Laurent. In the last two years the sons have embarked on a program to upgrade the winemaking facility and expand the vineyards. Over the years the family has acquired vineyards across the valley and now has estates in all wine-growing regions.

We recently caught up with Arnaud, who handles the sales and management of Saget la Perriere, to taste several of his wines from the portfolio. This label represents nearly half of Saget la Perrière’s production. His father acquired the 111-acre property in 1996.

The Loire is known primarily for its white grape varieties: sauvignon blanc, chenin blanc and melon de bourgogne. The Chinon appellation is known for its cabernet franc but more recently pinot noir has been shown more promise as climate warming has favored the Loire. Arnaud said quality winemakers have been reducing yields to improve the pinot noir, but we have found few pinot noirs from this region that we like.

Saget la Perrière is comparatively large with its 750 acres of planted vineyards, but Arnaud finds this a strength.

“When we took over, we had the choice to use our properties to create a big brand or make sure we keep all of our estates independent of one another,” he says.  “It’s more demanding (to keep the estates independent) because you don’t target the same markets. But we represent the diversity of the region.”

Here are the wines we liked:

La Perrière Sancerre 2019 ($44). Only natural yeasts are used to make this premium sauvignon blanc. “We want something as pure as possible,” Arnaud said. It has floral and peach aromas and citrus, orange rind flavors. Balanced acidity and long finish, it will improve with age, according to Arnaud. Austere upon release, it is fermented and aged in stainless steel to preserve the fresh fruit appeal.

La Perrière Blanc Pouilly de Fume 2018 ($35). Using the original name for this appellation – one of the oldest in the Loire – this wine is made entirely of sauvignon blanc. It has great structure and generous citrus, mineral aromas. It reflects the chalky soil more than the sancerre.

La Petite Perrière Sauvignon Blanc 2018 ($14). A great value, this simple but pure sauvignon blanc uses grapes from Loire and south of France. Because of the broad region for grapes, it is classified Vin de France. Simple citrus and peach notes with a touch of minerals.

La Perrière Megalithe Sancerre 2016 ($68). The estate’s iconic wine introduced in 1998, the Megalithe represents the potential of the region. Made entirely of sauvignon blanc, half of it sees oak barrels to give it more concentration and depth. Green in color, it has ripe pear and citrus flavors with herbal aromas.  Even with this much bottle age, it shows the potential to age. Arnaud says the 2003 version of this wine is showing well now.

Ramon Bilbao

We love the wines from Rioja because they often over-deliver for the price. They can range from the simple and juicy crianzas to the complex and layered gran reservas.

Ramon Bilbao has it all. Established in 1924 in the Rioja Alta region, the producer draws grapes from 445 acres of vineyards and buys grapes from another 2,224 acres.

Here are a few of the wines we liked:

Ramon Bilbao Gran Reserva 2012 ($39). Enticing black fruit aromas with ripe black cherry and raspberry flavors and hints of cocoa powder, vanilla and toffee. Full bodied and round tannins. It is blended with a bit of mazuelo y graciano.

Ramon Bilbao Rosada 2020 ($18).  Garnaca and viura grapes go into this crisp and easy rose.  Strawberry notes dominate with a bit of citrus.

Ramon Bilbao Crianza 2017 ($19). Aged in American oak, this medium-body tempranillo has oak-influenced notes of vanilla and nutmeg. Floral aromas and red berry flavors.

Ramon Bilbao Mirto 2013 ($65). The additional bottle and oak aging give this blockbuster density and richness. Made entirely of tempranillo riojano grapes grown on old vines, it has juicy plum and dark fruit flavors with aromas of licorice and spice. Aged for 19 months in new French oak.

Sicily’s odd grapes

In another recent column we reviewed Sicilian wines and subsequently tasted two more distinctive Sicilian wines to share with our readers.

The first features zibibbo, a grape that is usually the last in any alphabetical listing of grape varieties. Officially known as muscat of Alexandria, this aromatic grape is usually suited for table use, raisins, or wine making.

The moderately priced Alcesti Terre Siciliane Zibibbo 2018 ($12) is a versatile white wine offering peach and floral notes that combine in an easy quaffing drink -- perfect for the summer.                                                                                        

Sicily also produces an outstanding array of dessert wines as well. Marsala, most often used in cooking, is probably most well-known. Cantine Intorcia produces a special marsala that is meant to accompany dessert or bold cheeses. The Cantine Intorcia Marsala 1980 Superiore Riserva 3 Gen ($30-375ml) is a fortified wine made from the indigenous grapes grillo, inzoli, and catarratto. This 19 percent wine offers scents and flavors of dried fruit, roasted nuts and a very sherry-like experience. Semi-dry this complex wine is a real treat.

Wine picks

JUSTIN Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($16). A perennial favorite of ours, this sauvignon blanc has herbal and citrus notes with refreshing acidity.

Querciabella Chianti Classico 2017 ($30).  This pure sangiovese from the heartland of chianti has effusive cherry and mint aromas followed by rich black cherry and raspberry flavors.

Castiglion del Bosco Rosso di Montalcino Gauggiole 2018 ($35).  Vibrant cherry and plum fruit flavors with generous violet aromas and bright acidity.

Tom Gamble: farm to table success

August 18, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

When we caught up with Tom Gamble he was walking along the vineyards with his cell phone in one hand and a Leatherman tool in the other. As he talked to us for nearly an hour, we could hear him lopping off bunches of grapes too green to ever reach maturity by harvest.  It is a place where he is most at ease despite the pressure that an impending harvest has to his bottom line. 

Gamble can walk as many as five miles a day during growing season to tend to the 175 acres of Napa Valley vines that make up0 Gamble Family Vineyards. Often toting a binder of contracts, maps and legal documents, today he is more focused on the business end than he was when he tended a variety of crops for previous generations. But no matter how much the details of running a business cram his mind, his heart is still in farming. 

“I can’t help myself,” he admitted. “I want to be there at the start of the day because it’s in my blood and it’s what I’ve done all my life. Walking the vineyards clears my head too.” 

With the start of harvest only two weeks away when we talked to him, his head was full of details: getting the machinery ready, renting scales, buying new picking bins, lining up safety equipment and ATV light towers for nighttime picking, setting up COVID testing for the crew and inspecting the vineyards.  

“This is one time to sweat the little stuff,” he said.  

The Gamble name in Napa Valley agriculture is a century old. The Gamble family farmed 600 acres for when Tom was a kid. But in 1981 at age 20 he and his partners started buying land to finally make a wine with the family name. Today Gamble Family Vineyards owns choice property in Oakville, Yountville, Mt. Veeder and Rutherford AVAs. Its first vintage was 2005.  

The prize among Gamble’s vineyards is the three-acre Family Home Vineyard, originally planted by his mother and step-father in 1997.  Vines struggle through rock on a small knoll.  Picking times vary: soils at the base of the hill are richer, for instance, and have to be farmed differently. 

Why someone so deeply rooted in farming would want to make wine is more about economics than ego.  

“I love the land and that’s compelling,” he said. “It’s really hard to continue the farming business when it’s just vineyards. To be more sustainable on the economic side, you need to integrate.” 

We’re glad he did. Great wine starts with the grapes and that’s something Gamble knows a lot about. While sought-after winemakers and consultants often get the credit for a great wine, it’s the crew in the vineyards who start the process. If you don’t have good grapes, you don’t have good wine. 

“It is the farmer who works so closely with the winemaker to deliver a product,” Gamble said. “To make a consistent product from inferior grapes, there is so much more winemaker manipulation that has to go into a wine.  Our grapes are touched by human hands 11 times in their course. It doesn’t mean you can’t screw up, but once delivered these grapes are going to make great wine. There’s not a lot of need for sorting.” 

Although he remains involved in selecting the final blends, he leaves the winemaking to Jim Close, who has been with him for every vintage. 

Gamble Family Vineyards were recognized early for its sauvignon blanc, particularly a premium Heart Block version made from two clones of grapes. It is a block that, according to Gamble, “gets the most TLC.” Today, the red wines are getting overdue recognition, but the sauvignon blanc is a consistent over-achiever. 

Gamble credits the success to clones, a variety of which you don’t often see in sauvignon blanc. Gamble’s 2020 sauvignon blanc ($35) from Yountville is a blend of four clones. Musque, a clone we love for its creamy and orange marmalade influence, dominates.  It’s easily one of our favorite sauvignon blancs next to the pricey Heart Block. Nice texture with classic pineapple and peach notes with a mineral backbone.  

The vineyard is also popular with a number of top producers who buy Gamble’s sauvignon blanc grapes. Names, such as Realm, identify each row. Picking times depend on the preferred style of sauvignon blanc. Gamble said it is “really cool” to taste the differences that can come from the same grapes. 

“It’s like watching a group paint the same thing but it all looks different. It’s impressionism,” he said. “Diversity is what keeps Napa interesting. Something I think we lost a bit in cabernet sauvignon.” 

There’s nothing lost in the 2017 Gamble Family Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($60).  Blended with malbec, merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot, it has a Bordeaux-like style. It has effusive aromas of dark fruit, spice and mint. The palate is ripe and juicy with plum and coffee notes. Complex and firm tannins bode well for its aging potential. 

The 2017 Gamble Family Wine Paramount ($90), a blend of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and petit verdot. The heavy portion of cabernet franc distinguishes the wine from other blends. It is characterized by generous and young red fruit aromas, complex and juicy blackberry flavors with tantalizing hints of tea and herbs. 

One of the more refreshing wines in the impressive lineup is the 2020 Gamble Family Vineyard Rosè ($25), an interesting combination of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, pinot noir, merlot and petit verdot. You don’t see that blend too often in rosè. 

Wine picks 

Trapiche Broquel Malbec Mendoza 2018 ($16).  An outstanding value, this Argentinean malbec avoids the rustic quality of some of its brethren. Elegant rich and ripe fruit with classic plum and cherry notes.   

Day Owl Rosè California 2020 ($15). A delicious mélange of barbera, grenache, syrah, and french columbard. All stainless steel, this lovely rosè features strawberry and citrus notes in a mouth filling package that should please just about everyone. 

Lucia Soberanes Vineyard Syrah 2019 ($60).  This wine from the Santa Lucia Highlands takes syrah to a new level. Big, bold and concentrated with jammy blackberry, blueberry and currant notes with layered hints of mineral and black pepper.  This is a wine to pair with beef or lay it down in the cellar.

Domaine Ott sets the bar for quality rose

August 11, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

If you live in Provence you have to be amused at the fuss over rosé. It’s as if the world just discovered this refreshing drink when for decades it has been as much a staple at a café table as a loaf of French bread. 

It wasn’t a part of the landscape in the United States until the mid 1990s when it suddenly dawned on consumers that sweet blush wine was not the same as dry rosé. Today, this special quaff has finally joined chardonnay and sauvignon blanc as a wine of choice – and not just during summer months. 

Sales of rosé jumped 118 percent between 2015 and 2020, according to market analyst ISWR. Its growing popularity also spawned a growth in rosé producers eager to join the profit parade.  

One of the more common methods here and abroad to make rosé is called saignee. A certain portion of fermenting red wine is bled off fermentation tanks early in the process while the rest of the grapes are made into red wine. Many rosé specialists in Provence prefer a direct or “pure” process during which the grapes have no destiny other than rosé. In Provence, rosé is king. 

You can’t think of Provence rosé without first thinking of Domaine Ott, which has been growing grapes specifically for rosé since it was founded by Marcel Ott in 1896. Today, it is under the direction of fourth-generation cousins Jean-Francois and Christian Ott. 

Nothing that comes out of Domaine Ott is generic or simple such as some rosés we have seen from producers who are marshalling a phalanx of grape varieties to satisfy the growing demand. Jean-Francois said they put in 600 hours on every hectare to produce consistent quality with attention to detail. And, it shows. 

It isn’t hard for Jean-Francois to justify the higher cost for his wine.   

His Etoile, introduced in 2019, sells for more than $150 a bottle but his other rosés range from $26 to $65. Etoile gives Domaine Ott gravitas – a message that top quality comes with a price. 

“To tell you the truth, it’s a way to talk to people about why you pay that kind of money for red wine but why is it so complicated to pay that for rosé wine?” he said in a recent interview. “It’s exactly the same as the best red and white wine in the world. It’s a way for me to knock on the door and say we are working so hard to make the best rosé we can.” 

He did get us thinking: people pay exorbitant sums for quality cabernet sauvignon. Why not rosé? Is rosé by definition a cheap wine? Certainly that’s not the case when you taste the best from Provence. 

Although Domaine Ott makes some white and red wine, rosé dominates 80 percent of its production.  

 The grapes are grown on three estates: Chateau de Salle, Clos Mireille and Chateau Romassan. Because of their unique terroir, Ott produces a vineyard-designated rosé from each.  In 2016, it added By.Ott, a second label that blends the estate vineyards with purchased grapes. By.Ott represents a significant portion of the portfolio. 

Domaine Ott’s history has been focused on growing grapes for the expressed purpose of making rosé. Jean-Francois is adamant that you can’t use the same grapes for rosé and red wine. 

“If you try to make rosé with grapes that are used for red wine, you get different flavors,” he said. “If I made red wine from my grapes, you would not like it.” 

He said everything is different in how he grows rosé grapes. For one, he harvests early to get less sugar and hence less alcohol. A rosé that sported a 14 or 15 percent alcohol level – common to red wines – would be dreadfully overwrought. 

“If I taste a grape and if I feel the grape tastes good, it’s too late,” he said. “You need acidity that at the end tells you it’s ready – but not ready to be eaten.” 

The rosés from the Cotes de Provence are more refined with elegance and complexity not often found in this category. If you’ve enjoyed a $15 rosado from Spain or a rosé from the West Coast, you will find a lot more complexity and finesse from Provence. Not all of these wines are more expensive either. 

Jean-Francois said Domaine Ott recommends that consumers hold the bottles for a couple of years before consumption – a stark difference from the pop-and-pour advice from most producers.  

We didn’t wait to pour the 2020 Domaine Ott Chateau de Selle ($58), but it still showed depth and elegance. We also learned from experience that letting this rosé come to room temperature reveals the subtle nuances that make it so special. Introduced to the market in 1919, Chateau de Selle is a blend of grenache, cinsault, syrah and mourvedre. 

The 2020 Domaine Ott By.Ott ($26) is a broad expression of ripe stone fruit and tropical fruit aromas, citrus and spice flavors with fresh acidity.  

Ott said that climate change is affecting his vineyards like it is everywhere else in France. He predicted that he won’t be growing syrah in the next 20 to 30 years. Mourvedre, a grape variety that struggled to ripen 20 years ago, is likely to fill the gap.  

Wine picks 

Band of Vintners Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($40). There’s nothing like a great wine with a great story behind it. This is a collaboration of seven Napa Valley tastemakers who gathered monthly to taste wine and then decided to put their experience behind a label. They include winemakers, sommeliers and national salesmen. The result? A lush and approachable blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc for a decent price. You can find this for even less money in some stores. 

Domaine de Bila-Haut L’esquerda Cotes du Roussillon Villages L’Esquerde 2018 ($30). We love this Michel Chapoutier blend of syrah, grenache and carignan from southern France. Full body with a floral bouquet and lots of rich blackberry flavors.  

Clos Fantine Faugeres “Cuvee Tradition”  Rouge 2017 ($25). Carignan, grenache, syrah, mouvedre and cinsault combine to create a wine with a lot of garrique personality. Earthy with blackberry, cherry and plum notes and a bit of smokiness.   

Look for acidity in summer wines

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

It’s pretty hard to escape the heat this time of year no matter where you live. Temperatures are soaring to record levels in the unbearable Southwest. Elsewhere, it isn’t uncommon to see temperatures well above 90 degrees accompanied by uncomfortable humidity.  It’s times like these we confine our outdoor activities to morning and evening.

It’s hard for us to enjoy a red wine at this time of the year unless we are in air-conditioned rooms. Except for grill steaks, our summer fare tends to have more seafood or even just a salad. It’s a much better time for chilled white wines. The fresh acidity of sauvignon blanc, for instance, cools the palate and makes a nice aperitif.  Fruit, vegetables and grilled chicken with citrus sauces are ideal food to pair with sauvignon blanc.

This is also a good time to explore the white wines with less familiar grapes but with equal acidity and fresh fruit character. The white wines from Italy, Chile, Portugal and Spain are terrific to enjoy at this time of year.

Here are a few you probably haven’t tried but would be rewarded if you did:

Castello Banfi San Angelo Pinot Grigio IGT 2019 ($19). Produced mostly from Montalcino in southern Tuscany, this pinot grigio has the lush peach, pear and tropical fruit notes that makes you reach for another glass.

Castello Banfi La Pettegola Vermentino IGT 2019 ($20). Also from Tuscany, this vermentino is a great aperitif to enjoy on the deck for happy hour. Fresh and forward fruit with a dash of spice.

Vigne Surrau Limizzani Vermentino di Gallura DOCG 2020 ($16). The producer blends fruit from all its estate vineyards to come up with a fresh and pure vermentino with exotic fruit flavors.

Castello del Terriccio Con Vento IGT 2020 ($45). This is a very intriguing blend of sauvignon blanc and viognier grown near Pisa where the soils are loaded with stones and fossils. The result is a dose of minerality to marry well with the citrus flavors and generous aromas of this wine.

Ferraton Pere & Fils St. Joseph La Source Blanc 2016 ($38). From the Rhone Valley of France, this marsanne has stone fruit notes with a dash of citrus and good acidity. It’s a perfect match to shrimp, salads and fruit dishes.

Borreo Napa Valley Kerner 2019 ($38). This new line from Silverado Vineyards pays tribute to Felix Borreo who operated a grocery in Napa in the late 1800s. The owners purchased the property in 1992 and named the vineyard the Soda Creek Ranch. This kerner – a white German grape -- is one of several special wines it makes from the property.  Generous aromas of melon and citrus with soft – almost sweet – honeydew and peach flavors.

Bonny Doon Vineyard Vin Gris de Cigare 2020 ($15). Randall Grahm’s name is still attached to this legendary winery that clings to its whimsical portfolio. We have always liked this blend of southern Rhone varieties from the Central Coast. Pineapple and citrus notes.

Bonny Doon Vineyard Le Cigare Blanc 2020 ($15). This is a blend of grenache blanc, vermentino and clairette blanche grapes. Very aromatic with citrus and pineapple notes.

Olema Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($15). This is a steal in the sauvignon blanc market. Citrus aromas, grapefruit and tropical fruit flavors with bright acidity.

 Hugues Beaulieu Picpoul de Pinet AOC 2019 ($12). We love to pour picpoul to guests because it never fails to please. From the Languedoc region of southern France, this wine is guaranteed to delight the palate. Fresh citrus fruit and grapefruit notes with zesty acidity.

 Scheid Vineyards Estate Sauvignon Blanc Monterey 2020 ($22). All stainless steel and 100 percent sauvignon blanc, this wine is rich and smooth and presents a complex mixture of grass, herbs, citrus, peach, and melon flavors.  Worth the price, and then some.

Blackbird Vineyards Dissonance Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($20).  We like what the 20 percent semillon adds to this delicious wine that draws grapes from Napa Valley and the Knights Valley of Sonoma County. Exotic fruit aromas, grapefruit and pineapple flavors with brisk acidity.

Priest Ranch Grenache Blanc 2019 ($22).  We’ve enjoyed this wine for many vintages and it is the perfect white wine to complement summer. Fresh, brisk acidity, pure citrus and tart apple flavors.

Ladera Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($36). More complex than your average sauvignon blanc, this version the cool, windswept Ryan’s Vineyard in the Oak Knoll District. The blending of savignon musque and some oak barrel aging gives the wine a plumpness and depth. Tropical fruit and stone-fruit flavors.

Chalk Hill Estate Sauvignon Blanc Chalk Hill Sonoma County 2019 ($23). An amazing sauvignon blanc somewhat reminiscent of a grand cru Bordeaux white wine. Classic herbal and grassy notes accented with scents and a taste of roses and violets. A hint of oak with elegant honey notes.

Wine picks

Tenute di Arceno Valadorna 2015 ($55). Merlot is the foundation of this fruit-forward blend from Tuscany. Cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and petit verdot gives it a Bordeaux character, but more forward in style with ripe cherry notes and a hint of vanilla and black licorice.

J. Lohr Carol’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($60). Named after Jerry Lohr’s late wife, Carol’s Vineyard has been providing fruit for this wine since 1984. Blended with 18 percent petit verdot, the wine serves up dark fruit and cassis aromas with luscious red fruit flavors and hints of tobacco and spice. Since 2008 proceeds from this wine have funded mammograms and services in support of early breast cancer detection.

J. Lohr Estates Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($17). This delicious, fruit-forward cabernet  blend from Paso Robles is one of the best values on the market. Petit sirah, petit verdot, merlot, cabernet franc and syrah add to layers of juicy fruit character that ranges from black cherries to raspberries.

Don’t give up on chardonnay

July 19, 2020

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR  

Studies show that women drink more wine than men and generally it’s white wine they drink the most. Anecdotally, we find men rarely ask for chardonnay and that always struck as odd. Is chardonnay associated with quiche? Real men don’t drink chardonnay? 

It doesn’t help that “feminine” is often a descriptor used for some chardonnays while “masculine” or “brawny” is commonly used to describe zinfandel, barolo or cabernet sauvignon.  

Whatever the reason, it’s time for all of us to get over our prejudices of the most widely planted grape variety in the world. Despite what we claim, chardonnay is the most sold white wine in the United States for good reasons: it’s delicious and goes well with seafood and poultry. 

There is even more to like in today’s chardonnay. Producers are abandoning the oaky, buttery style that swept through the industry many years ago. Today’s chardonnay, in the best of hands, is returning to a Burgundian style: light oak and balanced acidity.  Many producers are even making unoaked chardonnays that perform remarkably better alongside food. 

While many top producers in California have put price tags of $50 and more on their premium chardonnays, it isn’t hard to find burgundy for less. Macon-Village, for instance, sells for under $25.  Chardonnays from satellite regions of Burgundy can be had for under $50 and are incredibly delicious.  

Although they are more expensive, we enjoy the chardonnays from Ramey. Made in a burgundian style, they are rich and luxurious with the natural acidity tamed by malolactic fermentation. For the best values look for Chateau Ste Michelle, Kendall-Jackson, J. Lohr and La Crema. 

 Here are a few we recently enjoyed: 

Domaine Gilles Bouton Saint Aubin 1er Crus “Champlots” 2018 ($56).  This premier cru reminds us of a good meursault with nutty, rich lychee nut flavors and a luxurious texture. Rich, round and well-balanced, it is a beautiful wine for the price. 

Louis Latour Chameroy Macon-Villages 2019 ($20).  Latour produces a Macon-Villages for $15, but we enjoyed the additional concentration of the Chameroy. White fruit and citrus notes. 

Balletto Vineyards Teresa’s Russian River Valley Unoaked Chardonnay 2020 ($20). One of the best values in chardonnay, this unoaked version is stripped of the oaky, buttery notes common to extracted chardonnay. It’s a much better match to food. Citrus and melon notes with crisp acidity. 

Kendall-Jackson Avant Unoaked Chardonnay 2019 ($17). Crisp and lively acidity with tropical fruit and apple flavors with a dash of citrus. 

La Crema Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2019 ($22). Pear and apple notes with s smooth texture and a touch of sweetness. 

J. Lohr Arroyo Vista Chardonnay 2019 ($25). Using grapes from a cool climate in Monterey, this wine offers generous aromas with apple, pear and lemon dominating the flavor profile. Soft mouthfeel and a sweet oak finish.  J. Lohr also produces an October Night chardonnay ($25) that uses a different clone and is equally delicious. 

Kosta Browne One-Sixteen Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2019 ($85).  At this price we’re getting into premier cru territory. But the concentration, complexity and focus are undeniable in this wine. Known more for its pinot noir, Kosta Browne has been focused on creating a chardonnay with equal stature. Winemaker Julien Howsepian has structured this chardonnay with balanced acidity and plenty of pear, apple and spice notes. 

Lucia Soberanes Vineyard Chardonnay 2019 ($65). Wow, what a mouthful of beautiful chardonnay. From grapes grown in a single vineyard of Santa Lucia Highlands, this wine from Jeff Pisoni has layered fruit flavors of apple and pear with a light touch of oak notes and a citrus nose. The nutrient-poor soil here forces the vines to struggle and that creates more intense fruit. 

Hahn SLH Chardonnay 2018 ($25). From the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey, this rich and buttery chardonnay exudes luxury.  Apple and mango notes dominate the palate. 

Veramonte Chardonnay 2019 ($12). From Chile and made with organic grapes, this simple chardonnay has pear notes and a kiss of oak. It’s hard to beat for the price. 

Smith-Madrone Estate-Bottled Chardonnay 2017 ($40). Co-owner Stu Smith led a volunteer team to spare his property from the devastating 2020 Glass Fire that destroyed much of Spring Mountain.  He has much to be thankful for, including this distinctive chardonnay made in better times.  Tropical and stone fruit character with a heavy dose of oak. 

Wine picks                                                   

Bodegas Volver Single-Vineyard Tempranillo 2018 ($18).  We were astounded by this rich and full-bodied tempranillo from La Mancha.  Deep color, generous licorice and tobacco aromas with mature plum and cherry fruit flavors followed by soft tannins.  You could pair this with grilled beef or just enjoy it on its own.  

Unshackled Rosé 2019 ($21).  Drawing grapes from the Central and North Coasts, this juicy rosé comes from a blend of pinot noir, syrah, grenache and mourvedre. Citrus and melon aromas with grapefruit and strawberry flavors. 

J. Lohr South Ridge Syrah 2019 ($15). A great value, this luscious syrah, blended with a bit of viognier, grenache noir and mourvedre, is pure pleasure.  Floral aromas with rich red berry flavors and a bit of spice. 

Pio Cesare Barbera D’Alba 2018 ($33). There is an ocean of inexpensive to moderately priced barbera d’alba on the market today. Most is passable, although some of the bargain selections taste like generic red wine. Offering proof that you get what you pay for, we highly recommend this Pio Cesare selection. Big and bold, almost barolo-like, this barbera d’alba offers a complex mélange of deep dark cherries, berry notes, and a trace of tar. An outstanding selection that will match the boldest cuisine.                                                             

Veramonte Organic Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Valley 2018 ($12). This beauty from Chile is an outstanding value. Made entirely from cabernet sauvignon, it has plum and black cherry notes and is aged in old, neutral barrels to create a fresh-fruited wine for immediate consumption.  

Ryder Estate Pinot Noir Rosé Central Coast 2020 ($15). This quaffable rosé is affordable and refreshing. Fresh berries dominate with a light but appropriate acidity and weight in the mouth. Perfect for summer.                                    

Bob Pepi passes along his vast knowledge

July 12, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Bob Pepi has seen just about everything in the world of wine. A man who joined his father in 1960 to launch a winery under the family name in Oakville, Pepi has seen viticulture and winemaking progress during the 62 harvests he experienced. Now 70, he’s using his years of knowledge to help other aspiring wineries. 

“When we started the biggest change was in the vineyards, especially in distancing (between rows). You made it wide because, of course, a tractor had to fit in between,” he said. Harvesting equipment is different today and the grapes are often hand-picked to avoid damage to them. 

“The other difference was the soil. People didn’t even look at soils when they planted vineyards. We had (lousy) soil for cabernet sauvignon in the valley, but that turned out to be good for sauvignon blanc,” he added. 

He left the family winery in 1991 and became general manager for the California operations of Stimson Lane. His family sold Robert Pepi label to Kendall-Jackson in 1994.  

Pepi also cited global warming and biodynamic farming as major vineyard changes. 

“There is less diurnal fluctuation from day to night,” he said. “We are looking to plant in cooler places. Merlot is now being grown in Carneros. And no one thought of cabernet sauvignon in Coombsville.” 

Pepi began consulting in 1996 and has a number of clients, including Geyser Peak, Two Angels, Samuel Charles, Atlas Peak, Argentina’s Bodega Valentin Bianchi and Chile’s TerraPura. In 2000, Pepi entered an agreement with a prestigious vineyard to make great cabernet sauvignon under the Eponymous label. He added a meritage wine named after the MacAllister Vineyard, a cabernet franc, syrah and a proprietary white blend.  

The role of the consultant has been a mystery to us. What role does he or she play? Is there another winemaker involved? Whose wine is it? 

“For small clients I am the only winemaker,” he said. “At other places I’m sitting in with the winemaker while I sometimes make the picking calls.” 

Winemakers, he said, can develop a “home palate,” which means they tend to taste the same thing every year and not identify the flaws. His review gives winemakers a fresh and honest perspective. 

Geyser Peak, in particular, is a winery that has had its up and downs. When former owner Accolade got the property we praised Daryl Groom for elevating its quality. When he left, the brand went back into a funk. But what we recently tasted under Pepi’s guidance was much better than what we remember. 

Here’s a sampling of wines from producers he has helped: 

Geyser Peak Chardonnay 2018 ($14). A great value in the chardonnay field, this creamy chardonnay with oak influences has white peach flavors. 

Geyser Peak Walking Tree Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($25). A good value in medium-body cabernet, this wine offered forward, juicy blueberry and blackberry flavors. It would be a good match to barbecued meat. 

Two Angels Red Hills Petite Sirah 2019 ($27).  This exuberant wine has excellent depth and quaffable character. Classic inky color with ripe black cherry and plum flavors and a hint of mocha. 

Eponymous  Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($60). Ripe plums and cassis flavors dominate the palate of this complex and rich cabernet. Mt. Veeder grapes comprise half of the blend with Coombsville, Howell Mountain and Atlas Peak sourcing the rest of the delicious blend. It has a long finish. 

Samuel Charles Oak Knoll District Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($80). This single-vineyard wine – the third release -- shows off copious aromatics and forward, bright raspberry and plum flavors with a hint of black pepper and vanilla. 

Atlas Peak Vineyards AVA Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($50). Forward in style, this delicious cabernet sauvignon has a bit of merlot to amp up the richness. Ripe blackberry and dark cherry flavors with a hint of cocoa powder. 

Unanime 

We recently tasted several wines produced at Mascota Vineyard in Argentina and was so thrilled we bought several more.  They are among the best from a country known for its bargain malbecs but not for the complexity we saw in these wines.  

Winemaker Rodolfo “Opi” Sadler has been making wines for more than 30 years and first focused on cabernet sauvignon. Only recently did he turn to malbec, the grape variety that put Argentina on the map. By and large, his wines range from a stunning $25 malbec to a $40 cabernet sauvignon that would blow away many Napa Valley competitors. Many have received high scores from critics. 

The high altitude and abundant sunshine and diverse soils in the Uco Valley give these wines a profile of ripe tannins and concentrated flavors. 

These wines, sold primarily at Total Wine, are worth seeking: 

Mascota Vineyard Unanime Malbec 2017 ($20). Rich, concentrated plum aromas with ripe dark fruit flavors, generous but soft tannins and a long finish. It’s the best malbec at this price we have tasted in years if not ever. 

Mascota Vineyard Unanime Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($40). Big, gnarly tannins give backbone to this serious wine with rich and ripe dark fruit flavors.  

Mascota Vineyards Unanime Chardonnay 2016 ($20). If you like your chardonnay with oak, this is a beauty. Generous tropical fruit and citrus notes with a creamy texture and hints of spice and vanilla. 

Wine picks 

Migration Sta. Rita Hills Drum Canyon Pinot Noir 2018 ($70). Duckhorn’s Migration line of pinot noirs are stellar, but we most enjoyed the velvet texture, black fruit character and forest floor notes of this one.  We also enjoyed the 2018 Migration Bien Nacido Vineyard pinot noir from a legendary vineyard. Full in the mouth and nose, it has great character. For a better value, try the Migration Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($42). 

Tenuta di Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano 2018 ($18). This estate’s entry-level wine is a delicious blend of sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon, canaiolo and cabernet franc. Fermented in stainless steel and aged in large Slavonia oak barrels, it has lots of fresh red berry fruit. For a step up in quality, however, the 2013 Ghiale della Furba IGT ($51) shows off a lot of mature and complex fruit. Made only in good vintages, it is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, syrah and merlot. 

The Pale Rosé by Sacha Lichine 2020 ($17).  From the producer behind the popular Whispering Angel, this rosé uses grapes from Vin de Pays du Var region of Provence. Light in color with citrus and melon notes. Very good. 

Paul Foppiano: fifth generation still making wine

July 5, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Paul Foppiano is hardly the image of what you would expect of a company president. There’s no Brooks Brothers’ pinstripe suit, spacious office or aides who bustle in with spreadsheets and strategic plans. You won’t find him pondering a merger behind a desk either.  

“My mind gets made up on the hood of a tractor or truck. That’s my office,” he said in a recent phone interview.  

And that pinstripe suit?  

“I’m in a pair of blue jeans with a hole in them and hydraulic stains all over.” 

That’s how the business of growing grapes and making wine has been done for generations at Foppiano Vineyards. Paul is the fifth-generation to lead the company, one of the oldest continually operated, family owned wineries in Sonoma County. As families squabble acrimoniously and sell their fractured wineries to large Wall Street beverage companies, Foppiano remains a survivor. Its wines may not have the cache or cult following of prestigious Napa Valley labels, but instead the winery stays on a course of making reliable, affordable wines. This is particularly the case with its iconic petite sirah, a flagship wine introduced by his Italian ancestors. 

Founded in 1896 by Genoa immigrant Giovanni Foppiano, the business survived Prohibition by selling home winemaking kits.  The operation was passed down to new generations, but Paul was only nine when his father died in 1984. He eventually went to work at Sausal Vineyard with another Genoa immigrant and then returned to Foppiano in 1999. He assumed the president title when his grandfather retired about 10 years ago. 

There aren’t many family wineries left intact today. Three conglomerates have swallowed up many of the operations that established the California wine industry. Most recently Sebastiani was purchased by Foley Family Winery and its historic facility in Sonoma was closed.  

Paul said the closing of an iconic building in town hit him hard. “I drove by there the other day one last time,” he said. He lamented the number of people who have lost their jobs. 

He struggled to find advantages to being family owned – “no one fights better than families,” he said – but he likes that decisions can be quickly made and that everyone on his small staff can perform every chore.  

“Everyone gets their fingers in the Kool-aid one way or another,” he said. “I wouldn’t ask any employee to do anything I wouldn’t do myself. We work as a team and you don’t always see that in corporate.” 

Now the only Foppiano still involved in the winery, Paul is more than happy to keep the business humming. But if it was up to him, he’d spend his entire time in the vineyards. 

Knowledge was passed down through generations, but Paul admitted times have changed since horses plowed his family’s vineyards. He pointed to irrigation and organic farming as among the most significant advances. But the region’s lack of water is among the most serious challenges. One of his wells has been ordered to shut down in a regional effort to conserve water. 

“We are probably in the worst drought ever,” he said. “The Russian River may go dry this year. Young vineyards can’t survive if you don’t irrigate.” 

We pull for wineries like Foppiano. It’s more than just preserving tradition created by hard-working pioneers. It’s about the wines that reflect a personal dedication and not the formula-driven recipes embraced by impersonal corporations.  

Here are some of the Foppiano wines to try: 

Foppiano Estate Zinfandel 2017 ($28). Classic raspberry and spice aromas with plum and blueberry flavors with easy tannins. This is a better food wine than most extracted zinfandels. 

Foppiano Estate Petite Sirah 2017 ($25). Foppiano’s crowning achievement year after year, this petite sirah has elegance and structure. Effusive clove and pepper aromas are followed by ripe strawberry,  blueberry flavors with a hint of chocolate. 

Foppiano 1896 California Red Blend 2018 ($13).  The beauty of this quaffable wine is in its simplicity. Red berry fruit and a perfect match to grilled burgers. 

Foppiano Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2019 ($25). Pear and apple notes with a dash of spice give this chardonnay a nice lift. 

Wine picks 

Capensis Silene Chardonnay 2017 ($40).  We loved this aromatic chardonnay from mountain vineyards in the Stellenbosch winegrowing region of South Africa. Rich, citrusy and intriguing. 

Hahn SLH Chardonnay 2018 ($25). From the Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey, this rich and buttery chardonnay exudes luxury.  Apple and mango notes dominate the palate. 

Vigne Surrau Naracu Cannonau di Sardegna DOC 2019 ($16). Named after the remnants of ancient fortresses whose ruins can still be seen in Sardinia, this simple but pleasing wine is made from cannonau grapes.  Fresh, red berry fruit. 

Vigne Surrau Limizzani Vermentino di Gallura DOCG 2020 ($16). Home to Sardinia’s only DOCG, this special vermentino is a blend from all of the producer’s estate vineyards. Fermented in stainless steel, it retains its fresh tropical fruit character. 

Wines for the holiday barbecue

June 30, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR  

Chances are that last year you weren’t planning a July 4th gathering with friends in the back yard. So, with the pandemic mostly in the rearview mirror, let’s make this holiday one to remember. Fire up that grill or smoker. 

There’s nothing like a rack of smoking ribs or a sizzling steak to provoke the palate. The aromatic smoke that wafts from a charcoal grill stimulates the appetite for the gaggle of friends or family who eagerly await the work of a master griller. Some grillers will be getting up early in the morning to smoke a brisket – a process that can take up to 14 hours – or pork butt. Others will be satisfied to grill hamburgers or fish after guests arrive. Whatever your choice, let’s not forget the wine. 

Barbecued foods are generally well seasoned with rubs and slathers. Many times, there is a ketchup-based sauce on the side for fare like ribs and pulled pork. If that’s the case, you will want to marry the meat with a fruity wine, such as zinfandel or syrah. Zinfandel is an all-American grape variety and thus a perfect fit for Independence Day.  

Zinfandel ranges in flavor profiles from the complex to the jammy. Expect to find these wines loaded with juicy dark fruit, but beware the high alcohol content that comes from very ripe grapes grown in the warm regions of California. Sharing a half bottle of zinfandel will impact you more than any other red wine. 

If fish is your choice, then you have many options. If your preparation includes herbs, turn to sauvignon blanc or vermentino. These perky wines have good acidity with herbal and citrus character.  A light red, such as pinot noir, works with salmon and tuna. Chardonnay is always a good fit if the fish has a cream sauce or is delicate. 

We love to grill large portobellos – a great entrée for a vegetarian – doused in a reduce balsamic vinegar and topped with parmesan.  Mushroom’s texture and flavor beg for pinot noir. 

Burgers presents a wide range of possibilities: light Italian reds, Spanish tempranillo, merlot, malbec French Cotes-du-Rhone or other syrah/grenache blends. California blends work well here too. 

Steak’s density and fat calls for cabernet sauvignon from your choice of regions. We love to pull out California cabernet sauvignon on this American holiday. 

Here are some choices to consider: 

7 Deadly Zinfandel 2018 ($16). Both the 7 Deadly Zin and the 7 Deadly Cabernet Sauvignon are full-bodied and bold for serious grilled meat.  We like the zinfandel for barbecued foods because its jammy berry character pairs well with sauces. There are lots of blackberry and spice notes herel. 

Dutcher Crossing Brothers Reserve Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 2017 ($40). Named for the brothers of winemaker Debra Mathy who she so reveres, this spirited zinfandel is a great match to grilled meat – ribs, burgers and even beef. Plum, raspberry and blackberry notes abound. 

Attis Lias Finas Albarino Rias Baixas 2019 ($20). It seems that more Spanish albarinos are migrating from the biting citrusy acidity that used to dominate many examples that we tasted. We’re finding more albarinos from Rias Baixas are leaning to peach and pear notes and toned-down acidity which is more to our liking. This offering is a good example of this new style with peach and citrus notes as well as a creamy mid-palate.           

District 7 Estate Grown Chardonnay 2018 ($18). Apple and pear notes dominate this oaky chardonnay from Monterey County.  

Volver Tempranillo 2018 ($16).  Made entirely from tempranillo grown on goblet-trained vines in a high-altitude single vineyard, this wine from La Mancha has licorice, blackberry, cassis and currant notes. Rich and tasty. It would be delicious with ribs, burgers and pulled pork. 

Duckhorn Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($32). Exotic tropical and peach flavors follow a generous spread of pineapple and melon aromas.  The 16 percent of semillon in the blend broadens the array of flavors and adds a smooth texture. 

Amalaya Malbec Salta Argentina 2018 ($16). This has that classic rusticity that is associated with so many tasty malbecs from Argentina. Deep berry notes flavor and scent this value oriented red wine. Perfect for pairing with another Argentinian export -- beef.  

Colome Autentico Malbec Salta Argentina 2018 ($30). The Colome malbec has a riper smoother berry fruit expression and some licorice notes, and a bolder impression in the mouth. Although a bit more money it makes up the difference in price with elegance and complexity.               

Blackbird Vineyard Napa Valley Arise Proprietary Red Wine 2017 ($40). We thoroughly enjoyed this plush, velvety blend of merlot, cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot. Plum and cherry notes with a hint of mocha and tobacco. Long in the finish and just a pleasure to sip. 

Other wine picks: 

Newton Napa Valley Unfiltered Chardonnay 2018 ($55). Classsic in style, this premium chardonnay is complex and rich in texture. Grapefruit notes abound. 

Sunny With A Chance of Flowers Chardonnay 2019 ($17).  If you are on a diet and still want to enjoy a glass of wine, you may enjoy this pinot with only 9 percent alcohol.  It computes to about 85 calories of a 5-ounce serving – no sugar is added. Don’t expect a complex, oak-driven wine, but it has varietal flavors. The producer also makes a pinot noir and sauvignon blanc. 

Surrau “Surrau” Rosso Isola dei Nuraghi IGT 2019 ($27). From the first vineyards planted in the Surrau Valley of Sardinia, this wine is a tantalizing blend of carignano, cannonau and muristellu grapes. They may not be familiar to you, but that’s all the more reason to try this unusual wine made in a mix of large Slavonia oak casks, stainless steel tanks and cement vats.  

Climate changes impacting European vineyards; Cote Mas wines

June 23, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR  

You wouldn’t think a couple of degrees spread over a few decades would make much of a difference in a vineyard. But climate change – or whatever you want to call it – is wreaking havoc in vineyards across the world. And, it’s about to get worse. 

Let’s go first to France, arguably the most revered wine growing country. Severe frost affected nearly 80 percent of the crop; summer heat spikes are accelerating maturation too quickly. Merlot is headed for distinction because it is ripening too fast – the consequence of which is more alcohol but less acidity.  The impact is so foreboding that seven new grape varieties, including sangiovese from Italy and assyrtiko from Greece, are being introduced in the Bordeaux AOC because they can survive in warmer temperatures.  

More northerly regions have benefited by the warming climate. Alsace has reported recent droughts have protected grapes from the common mildew. And pinot noir, a challenged for Alsace winemakers, is doing better. 

The same is true for Champagne, which has seen several vintage years. Champagne basks in wet, cool climates. But the higher temperatures – 2 degrees over 30 years -- have created a sweeter wine. Producers are no longer adding a dosage (additional sugar) and they are eliminating malolactic fermentation to hang on to natural acidity.  Some producers report they are pulling more from their reserve wines from previous years to get the acidity they are looking for. 

Champagne’s loss is England’s gain.  As temperatures warm here, the Brits have found success in making sparkling wine.  Once a borderline region for vineyards, areas like Kent, West Sussex, Hampshire and Dorset are producing fantastic sparkling wines.  Land planted to grapes has quadrupled since 2000; there are now more than 160 wineries in England where the soils replicate the chalky soils revered in Champagne. Taittinger recently invested in English vineyards, so what does that tell you? 

Burgundy, too, has had its climate challenges. Hail – not uncommon to the Cote de Beaune – has ruined several recent vintages.  

A recent study published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, researchers theorized that Burgundy and Bordeaux soon could be known for its mourvedre instead of its cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir.  

In the United States, California has been experiencing rising temperatures too. Riper grapes have led to increases in alcohol content. We spoke to several pinot noir winemakers who said they are no longer pulling canopy from the vineyards. Not only are they trying to protect the grapes from heat stroke, but most of them are picking at night. Cooler regions, such as Anderson Valley, and regions that benefit from fog off the Pacific Ocean, are prized for pinot noir. 

The PNAS report showed that suitability for grapes is projected to decline in Bordeaux, Rhone Valley, Tuscany but improve in northern regions of North America and Europe as well as New Zealand. 

Maybe your next best cabernet sauvignon will be coming from Canada. 

Cote Mas 

Jean-Claude Mas isn’t afraid of trying something new. The face behind Domaines Paul Mas, a large and innovative wine producer in southern France’s Languedoc region, Mas is always experimenting with new grape varieties. His vast holding of vineyards is planted to 45 different varieties, including experimental lots of montepuliciano.  

Even his one-liter bottles don’t conform to the conventional 750-ml sizes we see on the shelves.  

Although born in the heart of Languedoc, Mas spent several post-college years pursuing car and motorcycle rallies before returning to his roots and his real passion of making wine. His great grandfather was the first in the family to make wine in this region in the late 19th century. Jean-Paul has been at the helm of the family winery since 2000.  

He relates his diversity of grape varieties to a Rubik’s cube. “I can create different styles from pleasurable to sophisticated,” he said. 

The producer offers something for everyone in both grape variety and cost. But these Cote Mas wines represent some of the best values in southern France. We have said before – and now again – that the Languedoc-Roussillon region is not only a beautiful place to visit, but an undiscovered wine producing region.  

Try these wines as we dig into summer: 

Cote Mas Rosé Aurore Pays d’Oc IGP 2020 ($15). Grenache, syrah, cinsault and vermentino combine to deliver a mélange of red fruit aromas and rich strawberry flavors. Good acidity but a smoothness as well. 

Cotes Mas Sauvignon Vermentino IGT Pays d’Oc 2019 ($15). This intriguing and unique blend of mostly sauvignon blanc and vermentino offers something different in white wine. Zesty with grapefruit and tropical fruit notes. Delicious is a word that comes to mind. 

Cotes Mas Syrah Grenache IGT Pays d’Oc 2018 ($15). Luscious blackberry and black currants notes with a good dose of licorice. It’s a simple wine to enjoy with lighter fare or just by itself.  

Cotes Mas also makes two tasty sparkling wines: a brut and a rose in its Cremant de Limoux line. Each costs $20 – another good value. 

Wine picks 

Dutcher Crossing Family Reserve Merlot 2015 ($51). The extra bottle aging in this current release helps to smooth off the edges of a brilliant wine that refutes what naysayers claim about merlot. It is dense, chock full of varietal flavors and layered dark fruit, plus a dose of fine tannins. 

Ladera Pillow Road Vineyard Chardonnay 2018 ($55). Yes, it’s a bit pricey, but it’s probably the best Russian River Valley chardonnay we have tasted this year. The texture is exquisite with lush tropical fruit a nd peach flavors, toasted oak and citrus, hazelnut aromas. The finish went on and on.  

Ponga Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($14).  This is unquestionably one of our best discoveries in the New Zealand sauvignon blanc market.  We loved its lively acidity but mostly its oodles of grapefruit, white peach and tropical fruit notes. Nice mineral thread and alluring aromas. 

Flora Springs Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($50). Fruit forward in style, this showy Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon exudes lush plum and black cherry flavors with hints of oak-inspired vanilla and dark chocolate. 

Montecucco producing some unique wines

June 16, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Little known wine regions can sometimes produce very fine wines at surprisingly affordable prices. Tuscany is the home of a number of stellar household name wines led by the iconic chianti, and chianti classicos along with lesser-known but highly sought-after luminaries brunello di montalcino and vina nobile di montepulciano. However, a number of smaller appellations make worthwhile, interesting wines that fight for the respect they deserve.  

We stumbled on a lone bottle of red wine several months ago that impressed us and we were puzzled as to its origin. It was labelled Montecucco DOC and a mystery to us. A little research led us to southern Tuscany in the Maremma region.  

The Montecuccco region is nestled next to Montalcino, home of the famed brunello di montalcino. Here, like most of Tuscany, sangiovese dominates.  

Montecucco produces a total of four DOC and DOCG red wines. At a recent tasting, we were able to taste the entry level montecucco rosso, as well as the oak-aged montecucco sangiovese riserva, which can rival the brunello di montalcinos from across the Orcia River that separates Montalcino from Montecucco.  

The prices for Montecucco’s red wines are a bit less pricey than their much more established and revered neighbors in Montalcino. However, the quality and interest level of their wines approach their neighbor.  

We started our discovery tasting with the montecucco rosso. This DOC mandates that at least 60 percent of the blend consist of sangiovese grapes, and their prices per bottle are almost always under $20 with many under $15. One cautionary note: montecucco distribution in the U.S. is somewhat limited but appears to be increasing, so be patient. Your best bet may be searching in stores that emphasize Italian wines.  

Following are our tasting notes: Auspicium De Vinosalvo Montecucco Rosso 2016 ($12). This wine is 60 percent sangiovese and 40 percent syrah. Very ripe berry fruit with some cassis and herbal elements. A great value! Palmoletino Scarafone Montecucco Rosso 2016 ($17-25). A blend of sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon. This wine is very chianti-like with very ripe dried cherry and leather notes and a subtle hint of oak in the finish. Tiniatus Le Pinore Montecucco Rosso 2018 ($35). This offering is a bit more expensive than the other montecucco rossos and the most different. A blend of sangiovese and merlot, this red wine expressed a floral nose with tart cranberry fruit flavors. It needs food to offset tartness.  

Le Maciarine Montecucco Rosso 2018 ($15). Made entirely from sangiovese, this bargain wine was one of our favorites. Very rich and round with cherry and plum notes in a very harmonious quaffable style.  Basile Ad Agio Mon Montecucco Riserva DOCG 2016 ($30-40). The montecucco sangiovese riserva requires a minimum of 90 percent sangiovese grapes and two years of oak aging. This example had an oak expression that reminded us of a Spanish rioja. However, the fruit notes were pure Tuscany: dried cherry with a hint of leather. A very classy wine.  

Castello Collie Massari Poggio Lombrone Montecucco Riserva  DOCG 2016 ($50-60). The fruit in this example of the montecucco sangiovese riserva runs more to ripe black cherries, and is a bit more reticent.  More tannins than the Basile wine -- just give it some time and it should blossom. 

Dry Creek Vineyards 

We have been fans of the amazingly consistent Dry Creek Vineyards white wines over the past several decades. We recently had the opportunity to sample two new releases from this long-established wine producer. The Dry Creek Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Dry Creek Valley 2020 ($20) is another winner although this release stands out. A light touch of classic grapefruit is balanced with peach elements grassy notes and a whiff of violets. Absolutely delicious.  

The Dry Creek Vineyards  Dry Chenin Blanc Clarksburg 2019 ($16). This modestly priced white wine made from the not often used chenin blanc grape of Loire Valley fame is a must for wine lovers. A complex mélange of peach, lime and passion fruit elements blends in an unctuous wine with bright acidity balancing everything. Another winner for summertime sipping. 

Nine Wine Estates 

We recently sampled two new releases from Niner Wine Estates in Paso Robles, a part of California’s Central Coast wine region. As fans of white Rhone varietals we especially enjoyed the Niner Wine Estates Silhouette Du Coeur Estate Paso Robles Reserve 2017 ($30). Composed of marsanne, grenache blanc and roussanne, this wine displayed lovely notes of lemon curd, and peach with an enticingly appealing creamy mid-palate.   

The Niner Wine Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles Reserve 2017 ($45) presented the classic bright cherry cassis fruit notes that we find very appealing and frequently find in Paso Robles cabernet sauvignons. Deep and satisfying.  

 
Wine picks 

The Paring Red 2017 ($25). This is an easy-drinking blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot  and petit verdot. Forward black berry and cassis notes with a hint of chocolate and fine tannins. 

Pfendler Petaluma Gap Pinot Noir 2019 ($65). We liked the depth and character of this delicious pinot from an often-forgotten area on the Sonoma Coast. Blackberry, cherry and tea dominate the broad palate of this wine. 

Kosta Browne One-Sixteen Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2019 ($85). Among the best in the premium chardonnay field, this gem from cool-climate vineyards has the combination of native and barrel fermentation to drive home a luxurious and rich mouthfeel. Apple and pear notes with subtle hints of vanilla and almonds. 

Lapostolle Cuvee Alexandre Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($25). A good value in this varietal category, this wine from Chile’s Apalta Valley is medium in body. Generous dark fruit aromas are chased by cherry flavors. A little cabernet franc and carmenere is blended. 

Ponga Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($13). This New Zealand sauvignon blanc reveals the varietal grapefruit flavors and crisp acidity. 

Sosie Rossi Ranch Red Blend 2017 ($43).  We loved the exuberant and juicy fruit from this blend of grenache, syrah and mouvedre.  Great for barbecued meat. 

Roses the perfect refresher for summer

June 9, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Long gone are the days we saved our rosés for summer. Today, we drink them year-round because we’ve discovered that these pink elixirs are among the most versatile food wines -- and even on a cold day they make us think of summer. But here we are with summer upon us and the outdoors beckoning. Let’s break out the rosé! 

Sales of rosé are increasing about 3 percent a year now that consumers have put distance between the sappy blush wines popularized in the 1990s and the fruity dry rosés made famous in southern France. 

While we like Provence rosés best, we are constantly finding delicious copies from California, Oregon and other regions. Grenache, syrah, mourvedre and cinsault are the dominant grapes used in France. But more recently we are seeing pinot noir and even cabernet sauvignon used for rosé. You pick. 

True rosé gets it color from the skins. Winemakers leave the skins in contact with the juice just for a couple of hours, thus making them fainter in color than, say, a cabernet sauvignon that has much longer skin contact.  Less common is the saignee method when some of the juice from a red wine is bled off and made into rosé. The final method is to blend a little red wine into a white wine.  

Alas, we’ve noticed an uptick in prices for domestic rosé.  French rosés are strangely better priced in spite of tariffs and shipping costs.  

Here are several we recently tried: 

Gerard Bertrand Source of Joy Rosé Languedoc 2019 ($20). Very precise, focused rosé made from a blend of grenache, syrah, cinsault. Strawberry and cherry notes and lively acidity. 

Domaine Montrose Rosé 2019 ($15). Grenache, cabernet sauvignon and syrah go into this delightful, light-colored rosé from the Languedoc area. Peach, cherry notes. 

Argyle Rosé of Pinot Noir 2020 ($20). We loved this beautifully textured and vibrant rosé from the Eola-Amity Hills appellation of the Willamette Valley.  Most of it was fermented in stainless steel to preserve the aromas but the 10 percent neutral oak adds a silky texture.  Strawberry and red cherry flavors with a dash of spice. 

Alma de Cattleya Rosé of Pinot Noir 2020 ($22).  Light in color but crisp on the palate, this pinot noir rosé tastes of strawberries and orange peel.  Bright acidity and easy to drink. 

Domaine de CALA Coteaux Varois en Provence 2020 ($18).  We looked forward every year to a new vintage of this robust blend of grenache, cinsault, rolle and syrah. Faint color, lively acidity, citrus and white peach notes and a nice mineral thread. 

By.Ott Cotes de Provence 2020 ($25). From one of the best rosé producers in Provence, this introduction to Domaine Ott is pale in color with orange aromas and red berry flavors. 

Los Vascos Rosé 2020 ($14). Using cabernet sauvignon, syrah and mourvedre grapes, this Chilean wine has fresh raspberry aromas with citrus and pink grapefruit flavors.  

Angels & Cowboys Sonoma County Rosé 2020 ($16).  Simple but delicious wine with strawberry flavors. 

Ram’s Gate Sonoma Coast Rosé 2020 ($38). This interesting blend of grenache, pinot noir and syrah has a nice richness to balance the fresh acidity. Red fruit notes with a dose of spice. 

Bonterra Organic Vineyards Rosé 2020 ($16). Grenache forms the foundation for this organic rosé. Grapefruit, citrus and red fruit character.  

Cote Mas Aurore Rosé 2020 ($13). Grenache, syrah and cinsault make up this simple yet delicious wine from southern France. Ripe cherry, strawberry and spice notes. 

Wente Nicki’s Pinot Noir Rosé Arroyo Secco Monterey 2020 ($35). This is a delightful refreshing new crop rosé that is worth considering for your spring and summer drinking. Very pale pink in color with bright balanced acidity and lovely peach and strawberry notes.  

Chateau Ste. Michelle Limited Release Le Rose 2020 ($25). Made entirely from cabernet sauvignon, this Washington state rose has bold red fruit flavors. 

Erath Oregon Pinot Noir Rose 2019 ($14). Mango and strawberry notes with good acidity and surprising complexity. We loved it.  

Raeburn Russian River Valley Rose 2020 ($17).  This intriguing blend of pinot noir, zinfandel and grenache speaks of fresh raspberries and strawberries. 

Wine picks 

Lone Madrone Chenin Blanc Petillant Naturel Paso Robles 2019 ($35). Sparkling chenin blanc is certainly not unique since the winemakers in the Vouvray region of the Loire Valley have been doing it credibly for years. However, this version from the Paso Robles region of California is worth considering. Just a hint of cloudiness shows off the minimal intervention in this natural wine that brightly offers peach, pear and citrus in a wonderful sparkling package. The effervescence isn’t overdone making this slightly bubby wine easy to quaff. 

Upshot Red Wine Blend Sonoma County 2018 ($20). California red blends have gained popularity in the last several years and this release from the Rodney Strong family of wines is a good example of why Americans are seeking them. A polyglot blend of mostly zinfandel, merlot and malbec creates a balanced, fruity berry /cherry driven red wine that finishes with a spicy cinnamon note. Great for summer barbecues and can take a slight chill for warm weather drinking.     

Mt. Beautiful Pinot Noir 10 Barrels North Canterbury 2015 ($45). This is an amazingly good pinot noir exhibiting intense black cherry notes, a touch of cinnamon, and a slight herbal tang. With only a few hundred cases made this wine may be a bit difficult to find but should appeal to lovers of high-quality California pinot noir.                                                                                                                                

Paraduxx Proprietary Napa Valley Red Wine 2018 ($50). Duckhorn has four exotic blends in its Paraduxx series, this one being the most reasonably priced. A blend of seven varieties – cabernet sauvignon dominates --- it is luscious with black berry flavors, soft tannins, and hints of anise, vanilla and black pepper. 

The Paring Syrah 2018 ($25). We loved this intense and structured syrah from Santa Barbara County. Big aromas and layered sweet red and black fruit flavors with a hint of spice. Good value for what you get in return. 

Wine in a can competes with spritzers

June 2, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Surely you remember Bartles & Jaymes. They were those wine coolers in the mid 1980s with two old geezers sitting on their porch in suspenders and yakking away at enjoying a refreshing drink on a summer day. Those coolers were all the talk for quite a few years or until excise taxes were raised on alcohol. Gallo stripped the beverage of alcohol to avoid the taxes, but then the coolers weren’t much more than lime-ade. Sales plummeted. That opened the door to a spate of malt-based concoctions, like Zima and Mike’s Hard Lemonade.  

In 2019 Bartles & Jaymes launched a comeback and put the wine back in the cooler with only 4 percent alcohol. But today the boys don’t own the market like they did in the 1980s. In fact, they share it with a flood of seltzers hoping to capitalize on the millennial market.  

We decided to take a look at the seltzers, sangrias and other concoctions that are competing for your summer attention. Roll up the sleeves for warmer weather -- there is a lot to digest. 

Most popular are the hard seltzers made famous by White Claw. Also called spiked seltzer, these canned drinks add alcohol from fermented sugar cane or malted barley to flavored sparkling water. Consumers like them because they don’t have the same high carbs as beer, although the alcohol content (calories!) is about the same.  They come in a rainbow of exotic flavors to keep you interested, but we find them to be a lot of bubbles without much flavor. But we’re as old as the actors on Bartles & James, so what do we know? 

Millennials are drifting away from once-popular craft beers to join the seltzer craze, so much so that beer manufacturers such as Budweiser and Corona have launched seltzer products. White Claw is still on top. 

Wine producers also pivoted by getting into the seltzer market. Just recently Decoy, which is part of California’s Duckhorn portfolio, launched a wine seltzer. With 5.5 percent alcohol and only 80 calories, these seltzers are even gluten-free and have no added sugar unlike the most hard seltzers. They are sold four 8.4-ounce cans to a pack ($15).  

A crowd favorite at a recent tasting was the Decoy Premium Seltzer Chardonnay with Clementine Orange. It has the most flavor for us. It also comes in a rose with black cherry, chardonnay with lemon and ginger, and a sauvignon blanc with vibrant lime. 

14 Hands also has a delicious canned rose ($35/6 pack) with delicious strawberry and watermelon flavors. 

Spritzers are usually wine-based and have more calories and alcohol. Fruit & Flower out of Washington state is made from grape wine and natural flavor, but the alcohol level is 13 percent.  We liked the passion fruit flavor. Four-pack cans cost $11. 

Not in a bottle but perhaps the most enjoyable of the lot was Flybird Baja Lime Margarita made in Mexico. Called a wine cocktail, it is made entirely of agave wine, fresh lime and natural citrus flavors. It has the unmistakable aroma of a margarita and about 15 percent in alcohol. With 11 grams of sugar and about 160 calories a serving, this is hardly a hard seltzer recipe.  

Flybird also makes a strawberry margarita mix.  The cost is about $10-12 for a 750-ml bottle. 

The seltzers offer the best healthy recipe, but we feel the urge to add some spirit to them, which of course would defeat their purpose. Still, they fit neatly into ice coolers, which makes them appealing to the tailgate and boating crowds. 

Of course, you can buy canned wines without the bubbles that usually taste a lot better if you can ignore the calories and carbs. Bonterra Organic wine is a good choice. 

We also like A to Z Bubbles and Underwood spritzers. 

Among the spritzers, we enjoyed Line 39 ($12/4 pack) in attractive resealable aluminum bottles. They come in a sauvignon blanc with lemon, a pinot noir with black cherry and a rose with a dash of strawberry. 

These handy wines offer a nice alternative to glass bottles. 

Wine picks 

Turnbull Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($50). This veteran producer often flies under the radar, but manages to produce consistently balanced and approachable wines. Blended with a little cabernet franc, petit verdot, merlot and malbec, it has luscious plum and blackberry aromas, jammy raspberry and cherry flavors with soft tannins. 

Decoy California Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($25). This cabernet sauvignon may be broad in grape sourcing but it has Duckhorn’s stamp of quality. By blending some merlot, zinfandel, petite sirah, syrah and petit verdot, the winemaker has created a delicious and quaffable red wine with juicy black fruit flavors. 

Tenuta Frescobaldi de Castiglioni IGT 2018 ($24). A super-Tuscan blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and sangiovese, this delicious wine has ripe blackberry and cassis notes with hints of licorice and black pepper. Frescobaldi’s chianti at $16 is another a great valuable from this respectable house. 

El Tractor Reserve Malbec Mendoza 2017 ($14). Luscious plum and raspberry flavors with a hint of vanilla. Great value. 

Gary Farrell Olivet Lane Vineyard Chardonnay 2018 ($45). From the Russian River Valley – a terrific area for chardonnay – this single vineyard wine has great balance with grapefruit and citrus aromas and stone fruit flavors. With just a kiss of oak, its creamy texture takes center stage. 

White wines of the Rhone Valley too forgotten

(May 25, 2021)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Rare is the person who thinks first of Rhone Valley when it comes to choosing a white wine. How sad. The second largest wine producing region of France, the fertile Rhone Valley meanders aside the Rhone River and is more valued for its syrah-driven Cote Rotie and Hermitage than it is for its viognier-driven Condrieu. Yet anyone who has been seduced by viognier’s aromatics or its delicate stone-fruit flavors learns that Condrieu has no equal. 

The white wine portfolio of the Rhone Valley is more than just viognier, of course. Marsanne and roussanne are used exclusively in Northern Rhone wines while a passel of additional grapes is at the winemaker’s disposal in Southern Rhone.   

The differences between the two regions are remarkable yet equally pleasing if taken in context with price and purpose. For instance, Southern Rhone blends stand out for their versatility and simplicity, a function served nicely by relatively high acidity and quaffable fruit flavors. Think of a summer day on the patio around a table of appetizers and fruit.  

On the other hand, a viognier from the village of Condrieu or a marsanne-roussanne blend from Saint-Peray demands more focus. It can be delicate and understated, hardly the profile of, say, a well-oaked chardonnay. These wines are cerebral and destined to be matched with a plate of Dover sole.  

The wines of the Northern Rhone must – and we emphasize must – be served at cellar temperature to tame the acidity and draw out the nuances that tantalize the palate. Take them out of the refrigerator well before they are served. 

We recently soaked in the pleasures of Rhone Valley’s white wines with appreciative friends who knew the region. We waxed compliments on eight wines – three from Southern Rhone and five from Northern Rhone – and while our impressions often agreed, the few differences we had just reflected personal preferences. As good as these wines are, however, they aren’t for everyone. If you like forward fruit, oak and a lush mouthfeel, stick with chardonnay. 

The Rhone Valley isn’t divided equally into two regions. While Northern Rhone accounts for the most prestigious wines, it represents only 5 percent of the vineyards in 8 appellations. Southern Rhone extends for more than 100 miles to Provence and is home to 23 appellations. The soils – as much an influence on the wine as weather -- change from sandy granite in the north to a mix of clay and sand to the south. 

For us the top white wine of the valley is found in Hermitage. But a close second is the Condrieu viognier, a perfumy wine with citrus and apricot notes.  Grown on steep slopes, the low yielding vines nearly disappeared in the 1960s when growers grew disappointed in their acceptance.  But eventually consumers developed an appreciation for these wines and the market returned. Thank heavens. These wines – best consumed young -- are heady and often delicate with understated flavors.  

Known for its complexity is the white wine from Hermitage. The 2017 Barroul Lynch “La Pierrelle” Hermitage ($99) we tasted, made entirely from marsanne, was luxurious with pear and nectarine flavors, herbal and honeysuckle aromas underscored by minerality. This wine attacks the palate with velocity. 

We were torn between two Condrieu viogniers. The 2018 Lionel Faury Condrieu ($60) revealed tangerine, white peach and orange flavors with a good dose of almonds and floral aromas.  Equally good but stylistically different was the 2018 E. Guigal Condrieu ($68). More austere in style, it had pear and white peach flavors with a thread of minerality. As one taster said, “This is a wine I could hang out with.” 

Faury also makes an outstanding 2018 St. Joseph blend of marsanne and roussanne ($38) that we found quite exotic with balanced acidity, generous aromatics, a long finish and notes of citrus and stone fruit. The exposure to large oak barrels gave the wine some nice complexity and texture. 

We were especially fond of the 2019 Domaine Auguste Clape Saint-Peray ($82), a very complex and rich blend of 80 percent marsanne and 20 percent roussanne grapes grown on rugged slopes in the southern-most part of Northern Rhone. We picked up orange marmalade, peach, nuts and honey in a wine that was partially fermented in large oak barrels. 

While the gems from the Northern Rhone are expensive, the best values are found in Southern Rhone where winemakers avail themselves to 15 different grape varieties. Viognier often makes a cameo appearance while grenache blanc takes center stage. Supporting roles are filled by clairette, marsanne, bourboulenc and roussanne.  

Two good introductions to this region are the 2018 Domaine Pelaquie Laudun Cotes du Rhone Villages ($13) and the 2019 Domaine de la Janasse Cotes du Rhone ($20). The latter wine showed apricot and lime notes with a bit of mineral. Its brisk acidity calls for food. 

Another great value but not as complex is Famille Perrin La Vieille Ferme Blanc Luberon ($11). 

Perhaps the most interesting was the 2019 Domaine de la Mordoree “La Reine des Bois” Lirac ($45). From a producer we’ve followed for decades, the blend employs grenache blanc, clairette, viognier, roussanne, marsanne and picpoul. Peach, apricot and orange rind dominate a layered palate. We loved the viscous, rich texture of this elegant wine. It was one of our favorites of the tasting.  

The Southern Rhone also is known for its fortified dessert wine made from muscat a petits grains. The 2016 “Domaine de Durban Muscat de Beaunes-de-Venise ($30) is not cloyingly sweet like so many dessert wines.  

Wine picks 

Tangent Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($17).  This Edna Valley sauvignon blanc has varietal grapefruit and citrus notes with lively acidity. 

10,000 Hours Red Blend 2018 ($35). The name of this Washington state wine is for the time it is said to take to master anything – karate, cello and even winemaking. Only two wines are made from the producer’s Red Mountain property: a Bordeaux-style blend and a cabernet sauvignon. Both are great for the price but we like this multi-layered, ripe version with jammy raspberry flavors and hints of vanilla. It has clove and anise aromas. 

Gary Farrell Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017 ($55). This Russian River Valley pinot noir exudes plump black cherry and strawberry notes with layered hints of olives, tobacco and forest floor. 

Don Melchor wines; some gems from Alsace

May 17, 2021

There are very few Chilean cabernet sauvignons with the pedigree of Don Melchor.  First planted in 1883 in the Puente Alto region of the Maipo Valley, its 314-acre vineyard is divided into 7 primary parcels and divided yet again into 151 sub-parcels to isolate the unique character of the soil. The cabernet sauvignons – the only wines made by this producer – reflect the painstaking attention that goes into choosing the complex vineyard blend for each vintage.  

Named after the founder of Concha y Toro, this brand was launched in the late 1980s and quickly achieved fame among the world’s best cabernet sauvignons.  Nine times it made Wine Spectator’s annual list of top 100 wines in the world. The 2020 Don Melchor scored a perfect 100 by wine critic James Suckling. 

We had an opportunity to taste the 2017 and 2018 vintages with winemaker Enrique Tirado, who has been the exclusive winemaker at Don Melchor since 1997. Based almost entirely on the great cabernet sauvignon that does best in the alluvial soil, Don Melchor sees sparse amounts of cabernet franc, merlot and petit verdot in rare vintages.  

Few winemakers give so much effort in determining the final blend. Each year Tirado sends 181 lots of wine to Lamarque, Bordeaux, where he joins winemaker Eric Boissenot in picking the blend over three days. On the first day, they taste six free-run wines from the top parcels that lay the foundation for the blend. Another 105 lots of pressed wine are then judged on the second day. The final day is spent experimenting with a combination of free-run and pressed wines for the final selection.  

Tirado said he is looking for a “very fine wine with intense expression and a very precise definition of the flavors. But it has to have maximum emotion. Very important to make a wine that produces an emotion.” 

What’s missing in this wine is the indigenous grape variety carmenere. Tirado said the terroir is not the best for this local grape variety, but he’s probably being diplomatic. Carmenere, a descendant of cabernet franc, would hardly complement Don Melchor. 

These long-lived wines aren’t cheap at $110 a bottle but they stand up to the best Bordeaux at the same price.  

The 2017 Don Melchor has red fruit character with an amazing thread of graphite. It had effusive floral aromas, a balance of power and elegance, fine tannins and complexity.  

The 2018 Don Melchor was a bit tighter and more oaky for us, probably because the 2017 had more time to develop. But the 2018 had that energy and balance that makes this wine a world classic. 

Pinot blanc from Alsace 

White wine labeled pinot blanc from Alsace is a bit of a conundrum. Although pinot blanc is a distinct grape variety, Alsatian wine labeled pinot blanc only indicates that the wine is made from one of the several grapes grown there.  

Technically, pinot blanc can be made from any combination of pinot blanc, auxerrois blanc, pinot gris or the no-skin-contact juice from pinot noir. Confused? To further confound consumers, its kissing cousin pinot gris must be made entirely from that varietal to be labeled pinot gris.   

Pinot blanc (and pinot gris) are a mutation from the notoriously unstable pinot noir grape, and probably originated in Burgundy. It is a relatively minor grape variety in most of the world with minor outposts in California, Burgundy, Austria and Italy. In Alsace pinot blanc is one of the three most planted grape varieties along with riesling and gewurztraminer but it produces the most wine of all white grapes.   

In general, the wines are more akin to riesling and pinot gris than any other grape variety. Typically, the pinot blancs we recently tried tasted of peach and pear with an underlying minerality. Overall, we felt that like other Alsace and German wines, they would match well with spicy Asian and Indian foods as well as Alsace favorites, such as choucroute garni (pork and pork sausages with sauerkraut).   

Following are our favorites of the six wines we tasted.  

Domaine Emile Beyer Pinot Blanc Tradition Alsace 2019 ($18). Two of our three favorites, including this one, were 100 percent pinot blanc. All stainless-steel fermentation along with several months of lees aging produced a very clean, smooth, honied, wine with peach and floral notes in a very smooth package.   

Domaine Paul Blanck Pinot Blanc Alsace 2018 ($16). This pinot blanc also exhibited floral and peach elements but with distinctive mineral slate notes. Enjoyed best with food.   

Famille Hugel Pinot Blanc Cuvee Les Amours Alsace 2018 ($17). Our favorite, this pinot blanc displayed lemon/lime notes with an overlay of peach and a bright acidity that cleansed the palate. Great package and widely available.  
Wine picks 

Justin Isosceles 2018 ($76). The flagship wine of Justin, this blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot is one of the best from Paso Robles. We’ve tasted three vintages of this wine and can attest to its ageability.  Full bodied, it has both strength and elegance. Ripe plum, currant and black cherry flavors with hints of anise and cedar. 

Robert Hall Paso Red Blend 2018 ($20). A good value, this Central Coast wine is a juicy Rhone-style blend of petite sirah, zinfandel, syrah, petit verdot, grenache and mourvedre. Ripe, sweet fruit character with notes of dark berries. It’s delicious. 

CVNE Monopole 2020 ($16). A delightful wine to welcome spring, this white Rioja is made entire of viura grapes. Simple, tasty and pure with citrus and herbal notes. 

Hand-crafted gins, prosecco and more

May 10, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

If you live long enough, you’ll see consumer products and their fan base come and go. Hoola-hoops, cold duck, chia pets, bellbottom pants – all fads that have disappeared. Now, let’s look at gin.  

Fifty years ago, gin was the stuff of very dry martinis and gin and tonics in the sweltering months. British imports dominated the premium market with brands such as Beefeater and Tanqueray leading the way. Domestically, Gilbey’s, Gordons and Seagram’s often slaked the thirst of those with more limited means.  

Interest and consumption of gin has waxed and waned in the recent past and today gin makers are basking in newfound interest in this clear spirit. However, the dominant dry English market style of gin with prevalent juniper notes (from the infusion of juniper berries) and citrus peel, has yielded -- at least among younger consumers -- to a panoply of different styles by utilizing a variety of techniques, including barrel aging, varying hues, and an array of flavors and scents. Gin bars, some featuring hundreds of different gins, are well established in the U.K. with interest spreading to the U. S.  

We recently tasted four smaller production gins that represent a sampling of this contemporary styled method of making gin.   

The Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin ($40-50-750ml) is produced in the small Irish town of Drumshanbo and features, of all things, a depiction of the mythical American jackalope. Distilled from grain with gunpowder tea as well as a number of other herbs and spices, this gin will not be off-putting for those gin drinkers who cling to the classic juniper gin experience. Don’t be put off by the gunpowder moniker; it simply refers to the appearance of individual rolled leaves, usually green tea, used to infuse this gin.  

The Gunpowder Gin displayed a balance of lemon peel, juniper, floral and anise notes. Re:Find Gin ($40-45 for750ml) hails from Paso Robles in California and is crafted from the saignee -- bleeding off of some of the unfermented must of red wine grapes that grow profusely in the region. The saignee process concentrates the remaining unfermented juice to create a more intense red wine. This gin features classic juniper notes but leans toward a display of cardamon notes that give this gin an unusual but pleasant twist.  

Barr Hill Gin ($35-40 for 750ml) is produced in Vermont and is a partnership between a beekeeper and distiller. The base for this gin is a corn spirit that is infused with juniper and combined with raw honey. This sweeter presentation is a throwback to an earlier era when sweetener was added to gin in a style called “Old Tom.” 

We found the juniper notes very apparent and the abundance of honey notes blended well and subdued the piney sharpness.  

Holland’s Nolet’s Distillery is mostly known for their premium vodka Ketel One. However, they also produce an iconoclastic gin Nolet’s Silver Dry Gin ($40-50 for 750ml) that turns the world of classic juniper scented gins on their head. Distilled from grain, this is the most intensely floral gin that we have ever tasted. Liquid roses with just a token of juniper would describe this delicious and classic.    

Three proseccos 

It’s hard to believe, but the ubiquitous sparkling wine prosecco was relatively rare in the United States until 20 years ago. Since then, prosecco has been on a tear, increasing over 10 percent annually in recent years and leading sparkling wine sales in the U.S. Reasons for this growth and popularity vary but low cost, food pairing flexibility and mixability certainly contribute to this impressive trend.   

Prosecco is made from at least 85 percent glera grapes, which in the past were sometimes referred to as prosecco grapes. Grown in the Prosecco region north and west of Venice, several other white grapes are allowed to make up the balance. Up to 15 percent pinot noir can be blended with glera for rosé prosecco. Rosé prosecco is definitely the new kid on the block since wine officials in Italy only granted DOC status in January of this year. 

Prosecco is a great inexpensive choice for making brunch mimosas and many other traditional sparkling wine cocktails, such as kir royale.  

Like other sparkling wines, prosecco pairs well with many foods, especially chicken, fish dishes and an assortment of appetizers.  

We recently tasted through a selection of 6 proseccos, including 2 rosés, and selected 3 that we felt merited the attention of our readers.  

Our two favorite proseccos were produced by the giant Italian cooperative producer Cavit, which is the largest producer of varietal wines in Italy. We tasted Cavit’s Lunetta Prosecco Rose ($15) and were really impressed. The sparkler featured a bold, slightly sweet style that featured lovely cherry and strawberry notes. Very easy to just sip by itself.  

The extra-dry Cavit Prosecco ($15-17) presented citrus, green apple notes with bright acidity and a wee hint of sweetness.  

Lastly, we enjoyed the Valdo Prosecco Brut ($15), a product of the Bolla wine company, which drank more like a sparkling wine made from a bolder, more distinctive grape such as chardonnay. The Valdo tasted and displayed scents of ripe, yellow Delicious apples and a hint of tropical fruit with a pleasant yeasty note. Serve this one by itself to maximize enjoyment. 

Wine picks 

Bico Amarelo 2019 ($12). This light and simple white blend from the Vinho Verde region of Portugal is a nice spring wine to sip. It consists of loureiro, alvarinho and avesso grapes.  Citrus and tropical fruit notes dominate with a touch of minerality. 

Quinta do Ameal Loureiro 2019 ($18). Made entirely of loureiro grapes common to Portugal, this vibrant wine has racy acidity and citrus, melon notes to go with seafood or to just sip by itself. 

Gaja Ca’Marcanda Promis 2019 ($50). Made by one of the most reputable producers in Italy, this offshoot from the Maremma region is a dense, concentrated blend of merlot, syrah and sangiovese.  Lavender and blue fruit aromas with plum and blackberry flavors. Worth the price. 

Sauvignon blanc ranges widely in style

May 3, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

There is probably no other wine that varies in style as much as sauvignon blanc. Rarely influenced by oak-barrel fermentation, it is a wine that it expressed naturally by soil and climate.  Without intervention, its flavor profile stretches from the herbaceous, tart style of New Zealand to the fruit-driven version from California to the mineral based wines of Pouilly-Fume. Not surprisingly, each region has its fans and each its critics. 

These stark differences came out during a recent virtual tasting of five sauvignon blancs from different regions: California, New Zealand, France, Italy and South Africa. 

Daniele Vuerich, winemaker at  Attems in the Fruili Venezia Giulia region of northeast Italy, said he sees the difference soil can make in his sauvignon blanc. One vineyard is made of sand and pebbles which gives a crisp, green note to the wine while a second vineyard with sandstone provides concentration and intensity. 

For Nikolai St. George, winemaker at Cloudy Bay in Marborough, yeast is important to coax out the grape variety’s aromas and flavors.  

“When you press the juice, you get herbal flavors. They are locked in there and need to be released,” he said. The natural, wild yeasts start that process, he added. 

Here are the wines we tasted: 

Representing the U.S.: The 2020 La Crema Sauvignon Blanc ($25), only in its second vintage, is fruit driven with pronounced nectarine and tropical fruit notes. A little barrel fermentation gives it greater texture and less brisk acidity than the austere sauvignon blanc from other regions. If you like your sauvignon blanc with more weight and richness, California sauvignon blanc is for you. 

Representing Italy: The 2019 Attems Sauvignon Blanc ($19) has a distinctive mineral note we found beguiling. Good concentration and intense aromas with green and pear notes with a bit of pineapple. Vuerich credits the blend of two different soil types – sandstone and sand – for the concentration. From the house of Marchesi Frescobaldi, this wine is for those who want full body and mineral. 

Representing South Africa: The 2019 Neil Ellis Wines Groenekloff Sauvignon Blanc ($20) comes from 35-year-old bush vines and surely that has a lot to do with the tropical fruit and peach flavors.  If you like your sauvignon blanc with less of the New Zealand herbaceous notes and more tropical fruit, you’ll like this region. 

Representing New Zealand: The venerable 2020 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc ($35) continues to win awards, a track record that winemaker St. George credits to its consistency. He said he is less focused on aromatics and more on texture. If you like your sauvignon blanc with bright acidity, citrus aromas, zesty and herbal flavors, New Zealand has your number. 

St. George gave us insight into why New Zealand winemakers have embraced screw-tops.  

He said, “Corks spend a long time getting to New Zealand and they are not the quality they should be. We got sick of getting corks of low quality and taint. And when a (cork-finished) bottle goes back across the equator, it can lose 40 percent of its aromatics.  Stelvin (screw caps) decreases that loss.” 

Representing France: The 2018 Ladoucette Pouilly-Fume ($45) from Maisons Marques & Domaines is an excellent representative of that Old World style. It has more delicacy than those from New Zealand and California. Elegant and rich, it has apple/grassy aromas and complex citrus and mineral flavors. If you like your sauvignon understated, textured and complex, try wines from the Loire.  

Not in the lineup but equally noteworthy are the sauvignon blancs from Chile and Bordeaux. The wines from the Casablanca region of Chile are particularly good with lime and herbal notes.  

We love the blends from Graves, a subregion of Bordeaux, because of the heavy dose of semillon. This grape variety tames the natural herbaceous character and acidity of the grape and adds tremendous richness and texture.  

Here are other sauvignon blancs we have recently tasted: 

Chateau Granville-Lacoste Graves 2019 ($16). This delicious wine has 75 percent semillon, so it’s hardly a sauvignon blanc. But zesty, tropical fruit flavors make it worth discovering.  

Chateau Ducasse Bordeaux Blanc 2019 ($17). Luscious, bone dry and luxurious with tropical and passion fruit flavors. Semillon accounts for 60 percent of the blend. 

Gerard Bertrand Change Sauvignon 2020 ($15).  The limestone soil here gives this biodynamically and organically farmed sauvignon good acidity. Citrus and grapefruit notes. Ten percent is aged in oak to round it off. 

Les Légende Bordeaux Blanc 2019 ($20).  Blended with semillon, this classic white Bordeaux has elegance with white fruit flavors and crisp acidity. It is part of the Lafite-Rothschild collection.  

St. Supery Dollarhide Estate Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($38).  This pure and unadulterated sauvignon blanc has oodles of citrus, anise and pear aromas with varietal grapefruit flavors. Big in style, it delivers more than your typical sauvignon blanc. 

Chalk Hill Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($33). This estate has been producing consistent sauvignon blanc for years. With a bit of sauvignon gris in the blend and light oak barrel fermentation and aging, it has more complexity and richness than most sauvignon blanc. Tropical fruit notes. 

Dixie & Bass Sauvignon Blanc Horse Heaven Hills 2019 ($18). From Washington state, this exuberant sauvignon blanc shows off crisp acidity with herbal aromas and varietal grapefruit, citrus flavors. 

Mt. Beautiful North Canterbury Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($20). Citrus notes without the big grapefruit blast, passion fruit and some herbal elements highlight this New Zealand wine from the South Island. North Canterbury enjoys a moderate maritime climate due to the protection of an Alp like mountain range to the west and the Pacific Ocean to the east.  

Pinot noir reflects its terroir

(April 27, 2021)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Pinot noir Is often called the “heartbreak grape” because it’s thin skin often breaks and leads to disease, thus breaking the hearts of growers who dare to plant it. But in today’s world and grown in the right locations, pinot noir is breaking fewer hearts today. 

In California, the right location is usually near the Pacific Ocean where coastal fogs and breezes cool the grapes and lengthen their hang time on the vines to extract more acidity and fruit flavors. In Oregon, it’s the cooler regions of the Willamette Valley. 

In a recent virtual conference, three West Coast winemakers touted their growing conditions but expressed concern for the impact of climate change.  

Michael Accurso, winemaker with EnRoute in the Russian River Valley, said “We once struggled with ripening the fruit, but with climate change we have to watch over ripening.” 

Darrin Low of Domaine Anderson in Mendocino County said climate change has been gradual in California, unlike in Burgundy where winter frost, summer heat and hail have damaged crops.  

But they said nothing compares to making pinot noir, a wine that not only expresses the soil but also the craft of the winemaker. Each uses different tools to make their best pinot noirs. 

For Kate Ayres of Penner-Ash in the Willamette Valley it is broadening the profile of her pinot noir by sourcing grapes from 18 vineyards in six sub appellations. Her delicious Penner-Ash Pinot Noir 2018 ($45) is layered and expressive with strawberry jam and violet aromas, cherry and plum flavors, dusty tannins and a savory note that begs for a second glass. 

Accurso likes to use different clones to achieve an expressive pinot noir. He said the soils are pretty consistent, but a clone can give a perception of sweetness while another gives structure. He sources grapes from Green Valley and the Middle Reach regions of the Russian River Valley. His 2018 EnRoute “Les Pommiers” Pinot Noir ($60) has ripe raspberry and blackberry flavors, velvet mouthfeel and a streak of forest floor to keep it interesting. 

EnRoute was founded in 2007 by the partners of Far Niente. 

Low likes the diurnal shifts of the Anderson Valley where temperatures can range from the 80s during the day and 50s at night. He said it is the “perfect place” for pinot noir, a rating the champagne house of Louis Roederer saw when they located in this remote location in 1981. Anderson Valley has only 2,500 acres of vineyards as compared to the massive 15,000 acres in Russian River Valley.  

Low said the unique weather patterns of Anderson Valley produce more approachable pinot noirs. His 2017 Domaine Anderson Estate Pinot Noir ($45) has an expressive floral nose and black cherry flavors with fine tannins and balanced acidity.  

The regions represented by these three winemakers are hardly the only ones that produce special pinot noir. Burgundy has had an historic hold on the most prestigious pinot noir, but recent weather patterns there in 2018 created a blemished vintage.  Santa Barbara County’s warmer climate creates a riper pinot noir while the fog-cooled Carneros region of Napa Valley is known for its lighter, tighter pinot noirs. New Zeland’s Central Otago region has bright, ready-to-drink pinot noirs. 

Alas, Burgundy no longer has a hold on expensive wines. Oregon and California pinot noirs often soar over $100. The pinot noirs from Kosta Browne sell for $165.  

Here are some other pinot noirs we recently tasted: 

Rodney Strong Russian River Pinot Noir 2017 ($25. One of the most reasonably priced pinot noirs, this easy-to-drink gem has a silky texture with dark frit flavors and good acidity. 

Sea Smoke “Southing” Pinot Noir 2018 ($80). From Santa Rita Hills, thi explosure pinot noir had a lot of loving attention in the winery: punch downs twice a day, 14 to 18 days of maceration, only free run juice pressed at low pressure before being rack to barrels wilth press wines to barrels. The result is a soft texture with effusive plum aromas and flavors.  

Goldeneye Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2017 ($58). The entry level wine in a series of single-vineyard gems, the Anderson Valley is a blend of three estate vineyards. Aromas of sstrawberries and tobacco with red berry flavors and soft tannins. 

Sea Slopes Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2018 ($35). Reasonably priced in this expensive category, this pinot noir made under the direction of talented Jeff Pisoni gains from the cooling maritime breezes that slows the ripening process and delivers bright and expressive cherry, plum fruit. 

Cono Sur Ocio Chile Pinot Noir 2016 ($100). Chile’s pinot noirs from Casablanca are becoming more recognized. This version is serious with intense aromas and concentrated red fruit flavors.  

Migration Sta. Rita Hills Drum Canyon Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018 ($70). Velvet texture, rich plum and blueberry flavors with hints of sage and vanilla. Migration’s 2018 Sonoma Coast pinot noir is a great value at $42. 

Inman OGV Estate Pinot Noir 2017 ($73). We’ve been a big fan of Kathy Inman’s pinot noirs from the Russian River Valley. This flagship pinot noir from the Olivet Grange Vineyard has effusive aromas and raspberry, cola flavors. 

Gary Farrell Russian River Selection Pinot Noir 2018 ($45). Layers of ripe red fruit flavors and tantalizing hints of clove and herbs. 

Calera Mt. Harland Mills Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017 ($75). Drawing grapes from a vineyard at an elevation of 2,200 feet, Calera has a dense and concentrated pinot noir with layer fragrance and supple raspberry and pomegranate flavors with a shot of earthy mushrooms and black pepper. 

Wine picks 

Escudo Rojo Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($18). Ripe plum and blackberry notes with easy taninns. 

Fortress North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($23). Fruit forward in style with sweet black fruit flavors, moderate tannins and a hint of mocha. 

Beronia Crianza 2017 ($15). Tempranillo, garnacha and mazuelo come together in this simple, medium-bodied quaffer from Rioja. It also comes in a smaller 375-ml bottle. Herbal aromas and red berry flavors. 

The wines of Bouchaine and Los Vascos

(April 18 2021)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Over the years we have heard a lot of interesting explanations of what prompted people to become winemakers. Many came from agricultural backgrounds while others just loved to drink wine. Perhaps the most unique, though, is the story of Chris Kajani. 

Now the general manager and winemaker at Bouchaine, Kajani was stumped by her father’s eagerness for the teen-ager to get her driver’s license. It wasn’t long after the Napa native was legally behind the wheel when her father’s motive became clear: he wanted her to be a designated driver as he spent the day in wine tasting rooms.  

The well-traveled wine route and an occasional foray into her father’s cellar sparked a latent dive into making wine.  Although she started in biotech, she worked harvests, enjoyed wine and eventually returned to the University of California at Davis to earn a masters degree in viticulture and enology. She worked at Saintsbury for nine harvests before joining Bouchaine. 

At Bouchaine Kajani is able to pursue her love of red burgundy, a passion shared by owners Tatiana and Gerret Copeland – as well as legendary wine consultant and Russian émigré Andre Tchelistcheff who told the Copelands they “must plant pinot noir here.”  The Copelands founded Bouchaine in 1981, making it one of the oldest, continuously family-owned vilneyard properties in the Carneros AVA.  

They hired Kajani in 2015 and embarked on a program to replace a ramshackle building -- affectionately called the “slaughterhouse” -- with a beautiful visitor’s center. They expanded their vineyards to 104 acres, initiated sustainable farming and in 2004 Bouchaine became the first in Napa Valley to have a Fish Friendly Certified vineyard.  

Although Bouchane makes numerous wines, chardonnay and pinot noir reign here. Located in Napa County at southern end of Carneros, Bouchaine vineyards benefit from cooling breezes and rolling fog off San Pablo Bay. Temperatures can swing from the mid-80s during the day to the 40s at night. Such diurnal swings lengthen the ripening process and provides fresh acidity to the wines. 

That was evident in the 2018 Bouchaine Estate Chardonnay ($35), one of the best chardonnays we’ve tasted from this vintage at this price point.  Wines from this region are more citrus and nectarine focused. It is an elegant, vibrant wine with freshness, balance, just a kiss of oak and a long finish.  

Kajani said the chardonnay vineyard was planted in 1984 and the roots dive three feet down.  

“They regulate themselves and bring the same level of crop and character year after year,” she said. 

Equally elegant is the 2018 Bouchaine Estate Pinot Noir ($35). Although Bouchaine makes clone-designed pinots at nearly twice the price, it’s the estate pinot noir that is easy to find and well worth the price. There are oodles of strawberry, plum and red cherry flavors and a floral, rose petal aroma.  

When Kajani was hired, Gerret Copeland told her not to “screw up the pinot meunier,” his favorite wine. She didn’t. Grown on a low, three-acre plot that favors this hardy grape variety, the 2018 Bouchaine Estate Pinot Meunier ($68) exudes a savory character, dark fruit and mushroom flavors with a lot of fine tannin and a sturdy body.  

Los Vascos 

The Los Vascos label goes back decades for us.  When we first got into wine in the late 1970s, this Chilean label represented one of the best values in both red and white wines. That hasn’t changed today, although since 1988 the property has been operated by Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite). The first French viticulturist to invest in Chile, DBR introduced drip irrigation and new vineyard plantings to the property.  

The wines got even better. 

In a virtual tasting with Philippe Rolet, general manager of this Colchagua property, we were introduced to two new releases under the Cromas label. Both represent good values in red wine. 

The Los Vascos Cromas Carmenere Gran Reserva 2019 ($22) is a rich expression of the native carmenere grape variety. Using grapes planted on mountain foothills, it has effusive black fruit notes and soft tannins. 

The Cromas Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva 2018 ($22) is equally substantial in ripe fruit character but more akin to red fruit, such as strawberries, with hints of dried herbs and tobacco. Syrah and carmenere are blended with 85 percent cabernet sauvignon. 

Although these wines have aging potential, their ripeness and medium body make them enjoyable now. 

Another good value is the Los Vascos Chardonnay ($14). 

Wine picks 

Roaming Dog Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($15). From Washington’s Columbia Valley, this tasty wine has ripe black fruit flavors, easy tannins and a medium body to complement light fare. 

Silverado Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($58). This estate-grown cabernet sauvignon, blended with 14 percent merlot and one percent cabernet franc, has the power and concentration that we have grown to expect from this venerable producer. Using grapes from three historic estate vineyards, Silverado has a full-bodied wine with herbal aromas and sweet raspberry and blackberry flavors, a hint of tobacco and vanilla. 

True Myth Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($24). While prices have skyrocketed for Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon blends, Paso Robles offers good value as winemakers here have made great strides with this grape variety. Blended with 22 percent syrah from Edna Valley, the blend shows off a soft and delicious profile with cherry cola, blackberry and currant flavors with a hint of oak-inspired mocha and vanilla. 

Switzerland’s unique wines

(April 11, 2021)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Images of Switzerland conjure up craggy snow-capped mountains, bustling high-tech cities, and inaccessible alpine meadows dotted with grazing cows. Notions of Swiss wine don’t cross our minds. So, recently we were surprised to learn that contrary to popular opinion, Switzerland sports a lively and world-class wine industry. The bad news is that almost none of their exquisite -- albeit small wine production -- escapes its borders. Only about one percent of Swiss wines are currently exported. However, efforts by some Swiss wine producers have resulted in Swiss wines in some markets outside of Switzerland.   

A recent meeting with Tom Cox of importer and wholesaler Siema Wines provided an introduction to a pair of Swiss wine producers and a sample tasting of their products.  

Wine has been produced in Switzerland since Roman times. Most Swiss wine production takes place its southern and western borders abutting wine producing regions in France and Italy, with the majority of wines produced from pinot noir and the native white grape chasselas.  A plethora of other grape varieties are established as well, with gamay and merlot ranking third and fourth in acreage.  

Two of the main regions housing producers of export quality wine are Ticino in Italian-speaking southeast Switzerland and Neuchatel in eastern Switzerland. In Tecino, merlot is king and thrives due to its location on the south side of the Alps, an area that benefits from a Mediterranean-influenced climate and moderate temperatures.  

On a virtual program with David Delea, we tasted three iterations of his Ticino merlot: a sparkling white wine, a white merlot and a somewhat Beaujolais-like red merlot, all of which we thoroughly enjoyed.  

The Delea Charme Spumonte ($23) is a non-vintage sparkling wine made from a blend of merlot, pinot noir and chardonnay. The nose is reminiscent of a fine champagne while the flavor profile is more like a complex prosecco.  

White merlot is primarily known in the U.S. as an inexpensive, slightly sweet competitor to white zinfandel. In Ticino, it is gaining popularity as a dry, light and refreshing quaffer.  

The 2018 Delea Chair Di Luna White Merlot ($20) presents beautiful peach and citrus fruit elements in an unoaked, uncomplicated style. It would be great for spring and summer sipping.  The 2018 Delea Marengo Merlot ($21) is another unoaked version of this versatile grape and offers bright cherry fruit. It would be great with appetizers featuring cured meats and cheeses. Delea has used corks made from sugarcane for the last 5 years. He said they are more consistent than cork seals, do not suffer from TCA contamination, produce fresher wine and are cheaper than cork.  

We also met virtually with Henri Grosjean from Chateau D’Auvernier by Lake Neuchatel in the Neuchatel wine growing region of western Switzerland. Here, pinot noir and chasselas dominate the wine scene with pinot noir playing the starring role. The French Burgundy wine growing region is only about 130 miles due west and the similarities of some of the Neuchatel pinot noirs are striking. In fact, Grosjean told us that Neuchatel is referred to as “small Burgundy” and commented that their wines emphasize “soil and grapes, not vinification” -- a refrain often heard in Burgundy as well. Grosjean is also an advocate of corks made from sugarcane. The 2019 Chateau D’Auvernier Neuchatel Blanc Non-Filtered ($24) is entirely chasselas (also called fendant and neuchatel) and presents a viscous, round, and mineral-driven white wine with ripe peach notes. This unoaked wine will accompany the less heavy style of food in the spring and summer.  

We enjoyed the 2018 Chateau Auvernier Pinot Noir Neuchatel ($30), an unoaked, complex red wine with bright cherry fruit, a whiff of violets and faint echoes of the freshness and styling of beaujolais. Give this very nice wine a slight chill for ideal service.  

The 2018 Chateau Auvernier Pinot Noir Eleve En Barrique Neuchatel ($40) is a dead ringer for a very good red burgundy. Aged in oak, this offering curiously comes in a Bordeaux-style bottle to differentiate it from other Neuchatel pinot noirs. It has deep, ripe and wild cherry notes with a hint of gaminess, in a very complex presentation that already is drinking beautifully. Try some now and age a few bottles for 5-plus years. 

We also discovered a pair of Swiss wines made from indigenous grapes that we want to pass along.  

Chateau Constellation produces wines in the Valais region of Switzerland, which hugs the mountainous region north of Lake Geneva. We were impressed with two of their wines. The 2019 Chateau Constellation Fendant Valais ($22) is a pleasant easy drinking wine that features peach and pineapple notes in a lower acid package. It would be perfect for spring and summer sipping with or without food.  

We had never heard or experienced the humagne red grape, grown on only about 300 acres in Switzerland. The 2019 Chateau Constellation Humagne Rouge Valais ($30) presents a very smooth expression of meaty plums and cherries in a very appealing package. Try this with bolder meat driven casual foods. 

Wine picks 

Castello Nipozzano Vecchie Viti 2015 ($20).  Generous blackberry aromas waft from this sangiovese-based Tuscan wine. Rich and ripe blackberry flavors and soft tannins. Very quaffable wine for your next Italian dinner and a good value. 

Alma de Cattleya Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($22). Last year winemaker Bibiana Gonzalez Rave was spared the fires that devasted her Sonoma vineyards in 2017.  This tasty sauvignon blanc from the 2020 vintage from exhibits more ripe fruit – melon and grapefruit – than many we have tasted from this region. Good texture and finish. 

Be Human Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($17). A reasonable value from Washington state,  this blend of cabernet sauvignon, malbec and petit verdot is medium bodied with dark fruit flavors and a hint of coffee. 

Corvo Nero d’Avola 2018 ($10).  Always one of the best values from Sicily, this delicious wine – blended with a little merlot – has a ruby-red color and copious ripe fruit flavors of cherries and plums. 

The Pisoni brothers, Bertrand and more

(April 4, 2021)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Mark and Jeff Pisoni grew up in an agricultural family. Their grandfather farmed fruit in the Salinas Valley in 1952 but their father was determined to grow vineyards and bought a ranch in the rugged Santa Lucia Highlands. Today he has turned over much of the operation to Mark, the vineyard manger, and Jeff, the winemaker for Pisoni Family Vineyards.  

Although you would think that sibling rivalry would lead to disagreements between the grape grower and the winemaker, the brothers say the relationship is as harmonious as their wines. Mark is happiest walking the vineyards and eagerly hands off the winemaking to his brother. 

“If you look at my shoes, I’m a real farmer,” Mark said. “We’re very authentic – it is what you get with us.” 

Real indeed. In a business that is often driven by rich retirees from big tech or celebrities who lend only their name to a wine, it is refreshing to still see a multi-generational family making wine from vineyard to bottle. 

The Pisoni family has embraced sustainability, which has earned them the 2020 Green Medal award for Sustainable Winegrowing Leadership. A two-acre insectary of beneficial insects is located in the middle of the vineyard to enhance biodiversity. That’s pretty cool.  

Jeff said the wines showed a remarkable change after sustainability was introduced.  

“The wine has more energy, a vibrant natural acidity. The soils are more alive than they ever have been. That’s how I identify that I’m doing the right thing,” he said. 

The Pisonis are focused on pinot noir, chardonnay and syrah.  The 2020 Lucy Rosé of Pinot Noir ($19) is an exceptional bottle of sunshine – watermelon and nectarine aromas followed by peach and strawberry flavors with good acidity. We liked the texture of this special wine, which Jeff attributes to the use of neutral oak barrels. Once a wine made as a lark, the rosé is now a serious endeavor for them. A dollar of every bottle sold is donated to breast cancer aid and research. 

We liked the 2019 Lucia Chardonnay ($45), another nicely textured wine with bright apple, pear and citrus notes with a kiss of oak flavors. 

Pinot noir is the bell-ringer in the family’s portfolio. The 2019 Lucia Pinot Noir ($45) out-delivers the cost, which in today’s market is very reasonable in this category. Black cherries and spice dominate this expressive wine. 

Bertrand 

Gerard Bertrand is eager to spread the word that Languedoc-Roussillon, despite being the largest wine producing region in the world, is often the most forgotten.  He also is a fervent supporter of biodynamic  farming, a practice he embodies in an extraordinary effort to create unusual blends that burst with flavor. 

Bertrand’s enthusiasm and experience are steeped in history. He started his education alongside his father in 1975 in the vineyards of the Villenmajou Estate in Corbieres.  When his father died in an accident in 1987, he assumed management of the estate. His father emphasized an attention to detail, a lesson Gerard has adopted in practicing biodynamic farming. 

It was a farming practice he said changed his life. “Biodynamic farming is holistic medicine on a plant.” 

He said when he started to make wine he saw so much chemical being added. 

“I decided then it was important to change,” he said. He introduced biodynamic practices to two acres and kept expanding it to his entire estate of 2,000 acres.  

“I saw changes in two years,” he said.  

He cited more acidity, freshness, minerality and aging potential as the positive changes. 

Bertrand is using the same classic grape varieties, but each property gives the wine its own range of terroir-inspired flavors. His 2017 Clos D’Ora -- a blend of syrah, grenache, mourvedre and carignan – is a world-class wine with great complexity but at $250 a bottle, not everyone can afford it.  

On the other hand, there is an extensive selection of inexpensive wines that over deliver in quality.  

Bertrand’s 2020 Change Sauvignon Blanc ($15) demonstrates the freshness that comes from organic farming. Citrus and grapefruit notes abound in the nose and mouth. The 2020 Naturae Chardonnay ($18) tastes like a $50 chardonnay. Organic, sulfite free, certified vegan and packed with citrus and tropical fruit flavors. It has good acidity but is still lush in mouth-filling texture. 

The Naturae Cabernet Sauvignon ($18) also over delivers. Certified vegan, it has fresh and bright blackberry flavors.  

Bertrand makes a series of rosés that rival anything coming from Provence. The 2020 Source of Joy Rosé, new to the lineup, is a blend of grenache, syrah and cinsault. “Joy” indeed: expressive red fruit aromas with strawberry and cherry flavors, good acidity and a hint of licorice. 

Also new is Bertrand’s Orange Gold, a modern version of Georgia’s famous orange wines. It is an intriguing blend of chardonnay, muscat, viognier, chenin, grenache blanc, mauzac and roussanne. It has exquisite apricot and white peach flavors with a hint of nuts. 

Wine picks 

Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Thelema Mountain Vineyards Stellenbosch South Africa 2015 ($35). A beautifully crafted cabernet sauvignon that presents ripe cassis and blackberry fruit and a hint of elegant oak from 18 months in French barrels (45 percent new). Try now or age easily for at least 5 years. 

Rabble Red Blend Paso Robles 2019 ($16). Crafted from a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and petite sirah, this well-priced blend offers agreeable ripe berry notes as well as a pleasant cranberry-like tartness that enlightens the palate.  

 
As Sortes Rafael Palacios Valdeorras Spain 2017 ($60). Okay, this wine is expensive but wait until you taste it. One of the best white wines we have tasted this year. It is a 100-percent godello from a frost damaged vintage that lowered yields. Bright peach and citrus notes proceed to a lovely creamy mouth feel and finish. Amazingly good. 

Great values from Cotes du Rhone, Alma de Rosa, Luce and more

March 31, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Some of the best values in France are from the Cotes-du-Rhone, a vast wine region that accounts for nearly half of the wine production in the Rhone Valley.  Anyone looking for a good bargain in red wine would be a fool to ignore this region. 

More than 20 grape varieties are allowed in Cotes-du-Rhone wines.  Grenache, syrah and cinsault dominate the red blends but it’s not unusual to find viognier or carignane in the mix. Roussanne, marsanne, clairette are popular varieties in white blends. 

We enjoy the red blends with barbecue fare, such as ribs, hamburgers and sausages. There is good acidity, soft tannins and generous berry fruit to balance these dishes, especially if a red sauce is involved. 

Most of the simple Cotes-du-Rhones sell for under $20. If you step up to a cru, prices can escalate to $25 or more – still a bargain when compared to higher-priced Chateauneuf-du-Papes.  

Here are several we recently discovered: 

Louis Bernard Cotes-du-Rhone Villages 2017 ($16). This blend of grenache and syrah has good body for the price with generous plum and ripe dark berry flavors with a dose of anise. 

Stephane Ogier Le Temps est Venu Cotes-du-Rhone 2017 ($18). Mostly grenache with some syrah and mourvedre, this delightful wine has ripe and expansive red fruit character in a garrigue envelope. 

Domaine de la Janasse Reserve Cotes-du-Rhone 2019 ($15). Medium body with loads of plump red berry fruit and silky tannins. It is a blend of mourvedre, syrah, cinsault and carignane. 

Domaine de la Janasse Terres d’Argile Cotes-du-Rhone 2018 ($22). For a few bucks more, you get greater complexity in this blend of grenache, syrah and cinsault from Coudoulet. Black raspberry and earthy notes with hints of licorice. 

J.L. Chave Selection Mon Coeur Cotes-du-Rhone 2018 ($25). A blend of grapes from four distinct terroirs, this negociant wine is a near split of syrah and grenache. Violet aromas give way to beautiful dark berry fruit with supple tannins, a dash of black pepper and good texture. 

Chateau La Nerthe Les Cassagnes de la Nerthe Cotes-du-Rhone Village 2018 ($15). We have fond memories of this chateau after a visit with the wonderful family who makes these wines. One of the oldest producers known for its Chateauneuf du Pape, its simple Cotes du Rhone is often forgotten. Using grenache, syrah and mourvedre grapes from old vines, La Nerthe offers an intensely aromatic wine. Blackberry and cassis notes with a soft mouthfeel. 

Alma Rosa 

Given the struggles of the small businessman, it’s more important now than ever to buy wines locally. And we do. But on occasion there is a special wine made in small quantities that can be purchased only on line.  

These are often wine whose productions are less than 1,000 cases – too small to distribute nationally to stores and too small for many distributors to carry. Many are ultra-luxury wines that cost more than $200 a bottle, but once in a while we come across one that is reasonably priced. Such is the case with Alma Rosa Winery, a boutique producer located in the Sta. Rita Hills appellation of Santa Barbara County.  

Alma Rosa was founded in 2005 by Richard Sanford, the first to plant pinot noir in the Central Coast. The property was purchased by Bob and Barb Zorich in 2014. The current winemaker is Samra Morris who interned at the University of Sarajevo and spent time at St. Supery and Michael Mondavi Family Estate before joining the Alma Rosa team. These are the native Bosnian’s first wines. 

Two rosés were particularly noteworthy. The 2020 estate Vin Gris of Pinot Noir Rosé ($35) is loaded with fresh strawberry aromas and grapefruit, apricot flavors with a hint of spice and salt. The 2020 Alma Rosa Grenache Rosé ($30) has floral aromas and tropical fruit flavors with a dash of mineral.  

We were particularly impressed with the 2019 Alma Rosa La Encantada Pinot Blanc ($35), an expressive wine with fresh acidity and tropical fruit notes. Similarly, the Alma Rosa La Encantada Pinot Gris ($32) is surprisingly full bodied yet round in the mouth and long in the finish. Ripe white peach and melon notes. 

Tenuta Luce 

Twenty-five years ago, Robert Mondavi formed a partnership with Vittorio Frescobaldi to make a super-Tuscan wine in Montalcino that merged merlot with the region’s native sangiovese. You could say both the friendship and the blend were marriages made in heaven. 

Tenuta Luce has a lot to celebrate for its silver anniversary. 

The property is now managed by Lamberto Frescobaldi.  Winemaker Alessandro Marini, who worked in Bordeaux before joining Luce in 2018, said, “I’m proud of what we have accomplished.” 

Indeed.  

The 2018 La Vite Lucente ($30), an even blend of merlot and sangiovese, is a great value and meant for current drinking.  Fermented in stainless steel, it has fresh black fruit notes, soft tannins and a long finish. 

The pride of the portfolio is the 2017 Luce ($110), also a blend of merlot and sangiovese, that is fermented in cement containers and aged for 24 months in French oak barrels – 80 percent of which is new oak.  The result is a richer and more full-bodied wine with big yet fine tannins. It’s an elegant but complex wine that will improve with a decade of cellaring. 

Both wines are special anniversary limited editions. 

Wine picks 

Kosta Brown Keefer Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2018 ($165). There are few pinot noir producers who have been awarded the reverence of Kosta Brown. Its reputation was built over two decades of refinement in both the vineyards and at the winery. Today it uses only the best sources and a combination of fermentation vessels to achieve a complexity and luxurious elegance few others have been able to achieve in this cool portion of the Russian River Valley.  Three types of fermentation vessels were used in the Keefer Ranch pinot noir made up of seven different clones. Red berry flavors, effusive aromas, layers of red berry and spice flavors with soft tannins and balanced acidity.  

Badia a Coltibuono “Cultus Boni” RS Chianti Classico DOCG 2018 ($25).  Eight other varieties comprise 20 percent of this largely sangiovese blend.  Bright red berry fruit with medium body and long finish. 

Carpenter riding high on mountain-grown wines

March 22, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Chris Carpenter may have the best day job in the world. Through the windshield of his truck, he watches the fog roll over mountain vineyards that are synonymous with long-lived premium wines. The rugged-looking, former defensive lineman for the University of Illinois agrees his daily travels is a religious experience. 

“What often gets lost is the spiritual connection to wine,” he said. “You come off busy Route 29 on a holiday weekend and head into the mountains where there is nobody but you and a few hawks. You are in a beautiful place.” 

Carpenter’s beautiful place is on the slopes of Napa Valley’s most famous peaks -- Mt. Veeder, Spring Mountain, Diamond Mountain and Howell Mountain -- where he oversees vineyards for Jackson Family Wines’ portfolio of sublime, luxurious wines: Lokoya, Caladan, La Jota, Cardinale and Mt. Brave.  It is at these heights that cabernet sauvignon soars, but now the mountain man has learned that merlot, malbec and cabernet franc do well too. 

“With mountain grapes, you’re growing grapes in an area with a diurnal shift. Air masses move in early in the night and cool down the grapes. As cold air drops, the effect kicks things off early in the morning. The combination with the sunlight really increases intensity and phenolics and stops the development of acid and tannin.” 

Vines struggled to dig through the rocky terrain in search of little water.  While water is scarce, sun is not. While fog cools the valley below, mountain vineyards bask in the sun above the fog banks. Growing season often extends into November. 

While some mountain-wine producers hold on to all tannin to lengthen longevity, Carpenter concentrates on managing tannins so they don’t outlive a wine’s fruit.   

“A lot of my is thinking about tannin and how to present it so that the wine is enjoyable and still allows to age,” he recently said in a phone interview. Because much of his wine is available only in restaurants, Carpenter said he is conscious of not overpowering a chef’s creations. 

“Valley fruit has flash. But mountain-fruit wines age forever,” he said. “If you balance that wine correctly, you can carry that fruit for a very long time.” 

Is a mountain a mountain? Hardly. Carpenter said geology, geography, micro-climates and direction of the sun strike unique character to the red varietals grown on mountain slopes.  

“Diamond Mountain is like walking on moon dust. Spring Mountain is sedimentary rock. Hall Mountain is laden with iron and clay,” he said. 

Mountain-grown wines have intensity, depth and character that isn’t always found in wines made with valley-grown fruit. The challenge, as Carpenter said, is to tame the tannins to make them more approachable on release. 

The absolute killer wine of the bunch is the 2018 Mt. Brave Mt. Veeder Malbec ($85), perhaps the best domestic malbec we’ve tasted yet. Rich, boysenberry flavors, soft tannins and a luxurious mouthfeel with exotic spices, intense aromas and an inky color.  Delicious yet powerful. 

The 2017 Mt. Brave Cabernet Franc is a wine with incredible concentration and fresh blueberry and plum notes with hints of lilacs and herbs de Provence on the nose. It isn’t your daddy’s cabernet franc with this structure.  

Equally concentrated are the 2017 Mt. Brave Cabernet Sauvignon and the firm but succulent 2017 La Jota Merlot, a wine that finally gives credit to an often-maligned grape variety.  

Jackson Family Wines has a “Spire Collection” that allows members to subscribe to a sampling of these special but pricey wines.  

Here are some other mountain wines: 

Blackbird Vineyards Contrarian 2016 ($135). Veteran winemaker Aaron Pott has been working with this producer since 2007 and his handiwork shows on this blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot. Using grapes from vineyards on Spring Mountain, Carneros and Vaca Mountain, the blend sows off Napa Valley’s classic character. Dark fruit and truffle aromas with ripe plum and blackberry flavors with a hint of mocha and anise. 

Louis M. Martini Cypress Ranch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($100). A first for this venerable producer, the Cypress Ranch Vineyard cabernet comes from the slopes of the Vaca Mountains in northeastern Napa Valley. Lush cherry and cassis noses with dusty tannins and a lot of complexity. 

Acumen Mountainside Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($65). Acumen makes some extraordinary cabernet sauvignons under its luxurious PEAK portfolio, but the Mountainside series of wines are intended to be more approachable for early consumption. The difference in pricing shows it too – the 2016 PEAK Edcora Vineyard is $165. From vineyards on Atlas Peak, this cabernet is tamed with cabernet franc and petit verdot. It is a very complex yet elegant wine with dark fruit notes and hints of chocolate, tobacco and spice. 

Ladera Howell Mountain Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($115). Opulent blackberry aromas with a hint of mint and ripe plum and blackberry flavors with a touch of oak. 

Wine picks 

Domaine Bousquet Gaia Cabernet Franc 2018 ($20). From the foothills of the Andes in Argentina, this lush and full-body cabernet franc is a treat.  Deep violet color with a pleasant mix of blackberries, blueberries and raspberries with hints of black pepper and mineral.  

 Veramonte Colchagua Valley Carmenere 2018 ($12). Bright plum and blackberry flavors make this a good match to pork and beef. 

 Wine Society “Tempt” Canned Wine 500ml N/V ($12). Canned wines are definitely trending in many markets especially in areas where boaters live. Portable and convenient this red wine is also very pleasing. Crafted from a mélange of red grapes but it is primarily syrah and petite sirah. This wine exhibits elegant smooth cherry and plum flavors with a hint of herbs. A bit of a chill works well with this wine.  

Carmel Road Cabernet Sauvignon California 2018 ($15). A terrific value that doesn’t skimp on quality. Classic cherry, and berry notes with a hint of cedar and bit of oak make a great package. 

Longevity one of many black-owned wineries

March 15, 2021

Phil Long had just returned from his grandmother’s funeral when he stopped by his winery on a Sunday to do a little work. Alone, he was moving a full stack of 125-lb. empty barrels on a pallet jack when the one on top fell off onto his head. When his wife came across him, he was unconscious and temporarily paralyzed from a compressed spinal cord. Long was in an intensive care unit for a week and rehab for three more weeks, but recovered. 

One would think that such a life-threatening experience would give him pause, but as it turns out, Phil Long has a hard head. The winemaker who got his start in 2006 making Longevity Wines syrah out of his California garage has drawn on his stubbornness to head-butt his way through a bevy of challenges.  First, he’s an African-American struggling for a foothold in a largely white business. Second, he tragically lost his wife and business partner to pancreatic cancer in 2019 just as they were building the brand. Third, he launched a partnership with Bronco Wine Co. just as COVID closed down his tasting room and blunted a national expansion.  

All of this confronted a self-starter who plowed his way to ultimate success without following the normal career path of first getting a viticulture/enology degree or at least growing up in a family that liked wine.  

“When I was growing up I didn’t know the industry was an option... I was literally in college and didn’t even know wine was made in this country. The only thing I knew about wine was a four-foot bottle of chianti in my dad’s corner of the dining room,” he said in a phone interview. “A disadvantage in this culture is not being exposed to (wine).”  

But Long has followed his palate and said he a sponge for learning. He selects the grapes, works with the growers, and is constantly evaluating his wine. He’s done so well under these trying circumstances that he was named Livermore Valley Winery of the Year in 2018. His production, under Bronco, has soared from 10,000 cases last year to hopefully 100,000 cases this year – not bad for a guy who made 3,000 cases of wine in his garage. This spring Longevity chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon will be sold at 270 Sam’s Clubs – an achievement in itself.  

Now president of the Association of African American Vintners, he is helping to make wine a career choice for new generations in the Black community.  The association, founded in 2002, has more than 140 members, 30 to 40 of whom are winemakers. The affiliations include celebrities such as John Legend and Charles Woodson. 

Maryland, too, has a winery owned by African-Americans. Denise Matthews and Kimberly Johnson have partnered to make wine in Baltimore County. Started in 2018, Philosophy Winery released its first wine in September – a rosé made from Maryland grapes that is nearly sold out. They plan to release a viognier and cabernet franc in April. Besides making wine, they sponsor a mentorship program for young women interested in a career in wine. 

Long said African-Americans face the same challenges as anyone who starts a wine business, but he sensed an additional problem when he walked into tasting rooms and was often ignored. He said his worst experience was in a Santa Barbara tasting room where a woman was talking to a customer on the phone and didn’t even acknowledge him, the only customer. Neither did another woman who came into the room to listen to the phone conversation. He walked out.  From that, he and his wife “got a leg up on how to treat people,” he said. 

Although sales dipped when COVID struck, they bounced back with vengeance when the Black Life Matters movement drew support for Black-owned businesses. Longevity Wines was included on a list of Black-owned wine brands that went viral. 

“When Black Life Matters happened, we saw an increase in online sales. We sold more wine in the first two weeks of June than the entire year of 2019,” he said.  

Some of Longevity’s wines are sold only online, but Bronco distributes the chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon under the Classic label with plans to soon distribute a rosé and sparkling wine before year’s end. He gets his grapes from Livermore vineyards for the 14 wines sold at the winery; those distributed nationally are made from vineyards owned by Bronco’s Franzia family and have a California appellation. 

The 2018 Longevity California Chardonnay ($16) shows a lot of tropical fruit aromas and flavors of honeydew and citrus. A bit of viognier gives a boost to the aromatics. 

The 2017 Longevity California Cabernet Sauvignon ($16) is another good value. Blended with a bit of arinarnoa – a cross between merlot and petit verdot bred in Bordeaux in 1956 – the wine has an earthy expression with dark cherry and cassis notes, soft tannins and oak-inspired hints of chocolate and vanilla. 

The heart-shaped logo on the labels of these bottles, designed by Long, is a tribute to his wife, Debra, whose collection of glass hearts was part of a rebranding effort before her death. He also has a heart-shaped tattoo on his arm so that “she will always be with me.” 

Wine picks 

• St. Supery ELU Napa Valley Red Blend 2015 ($70). This is an incredible and complex blend of cabernet sauvignon (74 percent), merlot, malbec, cabernet franc and petit verdot. Sturdy in body and generous in concentrated blackberry and plum fruit with a hint of black licorice, vanilla and coffee. The additional bottle age makes this wine approachable now. 

• Cameron Hughes Lot 673 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2018 ($15). This winery, no longer owned by its namesake, buys grapes from top producers who for whatever reason don’t need them. It does so with the promise that it will not reveal his source. The result is often great wines at low prices. We like this light and frisky pinot noir with classical cherry flavors and a hint of mushrooms. There’s nothing serious here, but there is indisputably a lot of pretty fruit character that surpasses the price point.  Available on line only. 

• Veramonte Casablanca Valley Pinot Noir 2018 ($13). Cherry and strawberry notes make this Chilean wine easy to drink. Bordeaux doesn’t have to be expensive to be good

Not all Bordeaux wines are expensive

(March 10, 2021)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Sometimes we’ll assemble a group of like wines and taste them as a group. The benefit of this type of tasting is to get a reference point on a particular type of wine and to compare varietals or possibly even wines from a common appellation. In any case, tastings are fun and are an excuse to taste and talk about wines with friends.  

Recently we assembled a group of currently available and similarly priced red Bordeaux wines from 2015 to 2019 to get a sense of how Bordeaux is performing in a competitive world market where prices are often a consideration.   

While Napa Valley red wines are soaring past $200 a bottle, much of Bordeaux is maintaining quality while keeping a lid on prices. First-growth Bordeaux still sells for prices that are unaffordable for most people, but there are values to be found in other classifications. 

We tasted six wines under $25 that merit special attention from value seekers. Of the six we will recommend only four, finding one overly tannic and one other somewhat inscrutable and possibly flawed.  All of our wines used only the five recognized red Bordeaux varietals, albeit in different combinations.  

Our first two wines sampled startled us with the quality, price and true to appellation qualities that you would expect from Bordeaux.  

The 2016 Chateau Bire Bordeaux Superior ($14) is a blend of 50 percent merlot, 40 percent cabernet sauvignon and a smidgen of cabernet franc and petite verdot. The nose displayed a bit of herbs, oak and tobacco followed by cassis and cherry flavors in a stylish medium bodied package.  

The 2017 Chateau Trois Moulins Cotes -De-Bourg ($17) is another merlot-driven wine with 50 percent merlot and the balance cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon (20 percent), and 10 percent malbec. This wine offered bright, fresh cherry fruit, with some cassis notes. Very clean and drinkable.  

The 2019 L’Atypic De Pey Bonhomme Cotes De Bordeaux ($16) was crafted from an atypical blend of 60 percent malbec and 40 percent cabernet franc. The dominance of malbec presented a nice fruity cherry/raspberry experience in a medium bodied and softly tannic wine. Ratcheting up in price a bit, we tasted the Chateau Lyonnat Emotion Lussac St. Emilion 2015 ($25). Originating in one of the lower price St. Emilion appellations, this delightful merlot could have passed as a well-made California cab/merlot blend. Ripe plum and oak elements were accented with herb and eucalyptus notes, creating an accessible and delicious table wine that would match up well with higher priced California wine. 

Lastly, but certainly not least, we experienced the Chateau De Pez St. Estephe 2016 ($55), an exception to the under-$25 group. Elevated to Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel in 2003 just a notch below the hallowed Bordeaux Grand Cru level, this wine -- which continues to perform at the highest levels in winedom -- does not disappoint. It is 53 percent merlot and 42 percent cabernet sauvignon with a dash of petite verdot and cabernet franc. This well-structured wine offered classic Bordeaux featured cherry and cassis elements with a hint of tobacco for spice. Absolutely worth the tariff, it is a great example of what Bordeaux is all about. 

In a separate tasting we also found Bordeaux values from Chateau Paloumey Haut Medoc ($25) and Chateau Fourcas Hosten Listrac ($23). 

Wine picks 

Rodney Strong Vineyards Pinot Noir Russian River Valley Sonoma County 2017 ($25). Wow, this is a lot of pinot noir for the price! A bit of what some critics call “sauvage” with bright cranberry, wild cherry cranberry and spice notes. A great package offering an amazing amount of interest and complexity for the price. 

VDR (Very Dark Red) Monterey 2018 ($25). Although Monterey is normally associated with cooler climate grapes, the Scheid family located their vineyards in the warmer, sheltered southern part of Monterey to produce grapes for this terrific, black-as-night, wine. Using the unlikely combination of petite sirah and petite verdot, the winemaker has created a full-throttle, dense wine that fits the need for winter wines. Blueberry and blackberry elements dominate in this smooth package. A higher alcohol of 15 percent doesn’t come off as hot -- it just blends in.  

Villa Patrizia Istrico Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2015 ($15). A delicious, organic red wine from the relatively new (1998) DOCG of Montecucco, this wine is made entirely sangiovese. Rich almost sweet fruit with dried cherry notes and hints of sandalwood. Very round and agreeable in the mouth.  

Geodesy Chehalem Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017 ($80). Judy Jordan, who sold J Vineyards & Winery in 2015, founded this new Oregon winery as a means to develop local young women pursuing agricultural careers. Profits go to support WG Edge’s mission.  Winemaker Megan Baccitich and grower Scott Zapotoky come from Paul Hobbs Wines to craft an incredible lineup of wines.  We love the ripe, textured pinot noir and a delicious, although pricey, Sage Ridge Vineyard red blend.  

Masciarelli Marina Cvetic Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2015 ($32). This property was founded by Abruzzo native Gianni Masciarelli in 1981 and is now operated by his widow Marina Cvetic and daughter Miriam. This is an extraordinary, textured wine made entirely of montepulciano d’Abruzzo grapes from the estate’s top parcels. Fermented in stainless steel but aged in French oak for more than a year. Herbal aromas with red fruits and olive flavors with a hint of licorice. 

Nice surprises from Sicily’s Corvo

March 3, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Sicily is one of the most visually attractive regions of Italy but lately is becoming equally known for its moderately priced table wines made from indigenous grapes grown in its rich volcanic soils.   

Our first encounter with Sicilian wines began in the 1970s with the ubiquitous and inexpensive Corvo wine often seen on red-checkered tablecloths in Italian restaurants. Diners were served the classics of spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna and eggplant parmigiana, all slathered generously with a rich red tomato sauce. Our young palates enjoyed the wine and food pairing that introduced us to enjoying wine at dinner.    

We lost touch with Corvo until recently when the Sicilian wine group that owns Corvo and its sister brand Duca di Salaparuta introduced us to its current offerings.  

Its wines use the Terre Siciliane IGT appellation, created in 2011, that gives the winemaker broad discretion in choice of grape varieties. In 2017, the DOC designation was created for wines made exclusively from grillo and nero d’avola grapes. However, many producers decided to keep the IGT title even though their wines qualified for the DOC title. 

We were impressed with the Corvo Irmana Grillo Terre Siciliane IGT 2019 ($15-17). Fermented in stainless-steel tanks, this wine sports lovely citrus, green apple elements with fresh acidity and a nice finish. A very appropriate accompaniment for most fish and chicken dishes.  

One of our favorite Sicilian red grapes is frappato. The Corvo Irmana Frappato Terre Siciliane IGT 2019 ($15-17) shows candied and fresh cherry flavors that please the palate and should play well with most meat dishes.  

We were very impressed with the indigenous red grape nerello mascalese several years ago at a large Italian wine tasting in New York and have only occasionally found it in wine shops. The Duca Di Salaparuta Lavico Nerello Mascalese 2017 ($22-25) is a pleasant reminder of our first impression of this grape. Light in color with impressive plum and sweet cherry elements, a hint of cedar and terrific balance.  

Nero d’Avola is the most commonly planted red grape in Sicily and is the easiest to find in the U.S. These are often affordable, easily accessible table wines.  

We enjoyed the Duca Di Salaparuta Passo Delli Mule Nero D’Avola Terre Siciliane IGT 2018 ($20-23). This red wine exhibited big blackberry and plum notes with soft tannins. A very well-balanced wine at a fair price.  

The Duca Di Salaparuta Triskele Nero D’Avola/Merlot Terre Siciliane IGT 2017 ($22-25) comes across as a cross between a California- and Bordeaux-style wine with ripe cassis and berry notes. Very fruit driven, this is an excellent red table wine. 

Besides the wines from Corvo, we also enjoyed those from Tasca d’Alermita. The Tenuta Regaleali “Antisa” Catarrato Sicilia DOC 2018 ($22) is from a relatively obscure grape variety, although it was once popular here. “Antisa” is the word used for the anticipation of each year’s harvest. Catarrato is the last grape harvested and Sicily’s most ancient grape.  Stone fruit flavors and nice minerality. 

Tenuta Regaleali Lamuri Sicilia DOC 2016 ($20). Made entirely from nero d’avola grapes, this simple and delicious wine has black cherry flavors with a hint of vanilla. It’s a great wine to pair with pizza, pasta and the like. 

Dry Creek Vineyards 

Dry Creek Vineyards has been on our radar screen for years, continually delivering high quality Sonoma County wines at fair prices. Two recent releases impressed us. 

The Dry Creek Vineyards Meritage Dry Creek Valley 2018 ($35) is a true Meritage wine crafted from all five classic red Bordeaux varieties. Its 63 percent merlot leads off the batting order with cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, and petite verdot following in decreasing amounts. The blend creates a nice smooth complexity that presents wild cherry, plum and spice notes. Very easy to drink and would accompany a wide variety of cuisines.  

The Dry Creek Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley 2018 ($38) is another easy-to-drink wine. Although “old vine“ has no technical definition, Dry Creek utilizes grapes from vines that average 100 years old with some vines as old as 140 years. Classic black raspberry flavors along with blackberry accents and a hint of oak. 

Wine picks 

Knotty Vines Pinot Noir California 2018 ($15). Refreshing fruit redolent of cherry and strawberry.         

Chateau Rieussec R de Rieussec Bordeaux Blanc Sec 2018 ($40). It’s a shame that more people don’t think of Bordeaux when they think of sauvignon blanc. Every time we try white Bordeaux, we regret not drinking it more often. The stature of these wines from Sauterne is helped immensely by blending semillon with the sauvignon blanc. This wine has intense and well-defined citrus aromas and broad pear flavors. Long finish and just a touch of oak. 

Olema Sonoma County Chardonnay 2019 ($15). One of the best chardonnays for the price, this Sonoma County gem has white peach aromas and mouth-filling pear flavors with a hint of baking spice.  

Rodney Strong Vineyards Chalk Hill Chardonnay 2018 ($22). If you like your chardonnay with a toasty, vanilla quality, this one is for you. Creamy mouthfeel with pear and citrus notes. Great value. 

Rodney Strong Symmetry Red Meritage Alexander Valley 2016 ($55).  This Bordeaux-like blend scores high on the delicious factor with rich plum and cherry fruit flavors. Nice spice background and long finish. 

Robert Hall Paso Red Paso Robles 2017 ($17). The bulk of this wine is zinfandel and petite sirah with a dollop of petite verdot, tempranillo, and syrah. The end result is a delicious red blend that features bright fruit notes of mixed berries and cherries, with some spicy hints. 

Wines from Italy’s Abruzzo region

February 22, 2021

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

When it comes to tourism, Italy’s Abruzzo region doesn’t command the sterling reputation of Tuscany, Piedmont or heavily traveled coastlines. Yet there it is just east of Rome, nestled between the Apennine mountain range and the Adriatic Sea, waiting to be discovered for its local cheese, olives, pasta and wine.  

Although grape growers have planted vineyards in the rugged and often rocky foothills since the 18th century, the wines have struggled to gain footing because producers have been slow to embrace quality. They can’t agree on a bottle shape, use old trellising systems and have a confusing array of DOCs and subregions. But a recent wine tasting we did with Davide Acerra, president of the Consorzio Tutela Vini D’Abruzzo and wine educator Susannah Gold, shows some promising improvement.  Many producers have adopted sustainable farming, new trellising systems and different fermenting tanks. 

The region’s relative obscurity and emerging improvements make Montepulciano d’Abruzzo a great value for consumers looking to discover an eminently quaffable, fruity red wine. These medium bodied wines are perfect matches to simple foods, such as pizza, burgers, chili, barbecue and stews. The flavor profile of montepulciano d’Abruzzo varies from lighter notes of boysenberry and plum with spice, herbs, licorice to an animal overtone that some may find offensive. These wines have silky tannins and low acidity. 

Not to be confused with the town of Montepulciano that makes vino Nobile from sangiovese and other grapes, montepulciano as a grape variety is second only to sangiovese in terms of production.  In Abruzzo, montepulciano must account for 85 percent of the wine to achieve DOC status. All of the wines we tasted were made entirely of montepulciano, a trend that is associated with the wine’s improved quality. However, we wonder if the introduction of international grapes like cabernet sauvignon and merlot wouldn’t help the blend as they did in Tuscany. 

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo producers cling to tradition and one has to admire that. Not only are they wedded to indigenous grape varieties, but most growers are still using a pergola trellising system.  Forced on them in the 1970s by government regulators, grapes are grown on arbors high enough for tractors and pickers to pass underneath.  Some argue that this avails the grapes to disease, but Gold said that grapes grown on arbors get more sun exposure and are easier to harvest.  

One traditional practice that winemakers are willing to change is the fermentation vessel. Producers in Abruzzo are finding interesting success with cement eggs and even ancient amphoras. 

An additional layer of quality came with the 2003 introduction of the Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin. To earn a DOCG stamp, the wine has to meet more stringent criteria and be approved by a licensed panel of judges. 

These wines are not the insipid Montepulciano d’Abruzzo served in pizzerias and cheap Italian restaurants: 

Casal Thaulero Orsetto d’Oro Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2017 ($16.50). A cooperative named in honor of a well-liked, 16th century German family, the Thaulero has luscious mouthfeel, silky tannins and sour black cherry fruit flavors with a hint of spice.  

Feuduccio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2017 ($25). Red fruit flavors with hints of vanilla and sweet tannins. Very silky on the palate, it was one of our favorites. 

Cirelli Anfora Montepulciano d”Abruzzo 2018 DOC ($30). This wine is fermented in locally made amphoras, a large terra cotta clay pot. Circelli embraces organic, bio-dynamic practices and uses natural yeasts. We enjoyed the boysenberry and plum notes in this wine and its long finish. Trellising is on the emerging guyot system and wine is aged one year in bottle before it is released. 

La Valentina Spelt Riserva DOC Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2016 ($17). Fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged in Slavonian oak casks and large barriques, this vegan wine is more full-bodied than the others. Dried herb aromas and layered fig, dark fruit and mineral flavors. Certified organic since 2016.  

Ciavolich Fosso Cancelli 1853 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2015 ($50). Fermented and aged in concrete tanks, this aged wine has more texture with raw meat, rich black fruit and spice notes. Full-bodied, it calls for steak and demonstrates what this grape is capable of producing in the right hands. Ciavolich built the first winery in front of his house in 1853. Its underground cellars hid German tanks during their retreat. The family fled but returned in the 1960s to make this great wine. The small-production wine spends three years in bottle before it is released. 

Wine picks 

Blackbird Vineyards Dissonance Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($20). This is a luscious blend of sauvignon blanc (87 percent) and semillon in a true Bordeaux style. Classic grapefruit flavors of the sauvignon blanc mingle with soft apricot flavors of the semillon. Hints of lime and pear combine with bright acidity to make this an excellent sipper. 

Tamarack Cellars Firehouse Red 2018 ($19). This quite a kitchen-sink blend: cabernet sauvignon, syrah, merlot, cabernet franc, mourvedre, grenache, counoise, sangiovese, petit verdot and nebbiolo. We don’t know how the winemaker kept them straight, but the result is a decent, medium body wine with broad red fruit flavors and a kiss of oak. 

Paraduxx Candlestick Valley Red Wine 2017 ($60). Duckhorn Wine has a lot of fun with its exquisite blends. We like this Rhone-like blend of grenache and syrah for its concentrated black cherry and plum flavors with floral and licorice aromas.  We also like the 2017 Paraduxx Howell Mountain Red Wine that brings syrah together with cabernet sauvignon. Blackberry flavors with hints of mocha and pepper. 

Primus The Blend Chile 2017 ($18).  From the new DO Apalta region, this is a broad and seamless blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, carmenere, petit verdot and cabernet franc. As one would expect from this recipe, the flavors are expansive with red and dark fruit, spice, and dried herbs. Long finish and soft texture make it an easy wine to drink. 

Look to Rioja for great values

(February 15, 2021)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

Finding new wines amid a sea of international labels can be a daunting task. While we would like to try the wines of Georgia and Croatia, there just isn’t enough time when we’re sipping our way through new releases from the West Coast, Italy and France. Not enough time or maybe not enough liver.

It is with such remorse that we regret ignoring La Rioja far too long. This region of Spain had a spot in our cellars for many years, but our interests have wandered to emerging locations in Spain – such as Priorat and Mencia -- and other parts of the world. But mention Spain and most people still think first of Rioja.

Tempranillo is the dominant player here and is sometimes referred to as a “noble grape” similar to the grape hierarchy of cabernet sauvignon in Napa Valley and the Left Bank of Bordeaux. In Rioja this early ripening, native variety produces boldly flavored red wines and contributes to some of the longest lasting wines in the world.  Other red grape varieties include mazuelo, garnacha tinta and graciano. Although white Rioja wines are difficult to find, we have been recently drawn to those made from viura grapes. Malvasia and garnacha blanca are the other two common white grape varieties.

There has been considerable effort in marketing and in production to draw more attention and better quality to the wines of this region. Since 2017, for instance, producers have been allowed to designate on its labels the municipalities where the grapes are grown, much like we see in Burgundy.

The municipalities are spread around three recognized regions: Rioja Alta, known for its old-world style of wine, Rioja Alavesa, known for its full-body wines and low yields, and the vast Rioja Oriental, known for its high-alcohol wines and Mediterranean climate.

Rioja has attempted to rank its wines in quality by the amount of time a wine spends in oak casks and bottle.  Crianza spends at least one year in oak and a few months in bottle before it is released. Reserva ages for three years with at least one year in oak. Gran Reserva uses the best grapes and only in exceptional vintages. It is aged in oak for at least two years and then in bottle for another three years before being sold. A fraction of the wines produced in Rioja are classified Gran Reserva, but they remain the best and are still reasonably priced.

Rioja producers like American oak, which seems to react well with the bolder tempranillo grape variety and adds vanilla and coconut to the flavor profile. American oak is also much cheaper than French oak and that helps to contain the cost.   We find a lot of good tempranillo on the market for well under $20.

The attraction we see is the fruit-forward character of these juicy and alluring wines. However, they are more ageable than one would assume. For instance, we recently tasted a 1994 Urbina Gran Reserva that was holding its own as well as a 2004 Allende Rioja that we had tucked away years ago. It was outstanding and current release cost $25. For those stocking their cellars, it’s a reasonable investment for a wine that can last 15 years or more.

Look for labels like LAN, Muga, Beronia, Allende and Muriel and Bujanda. And here are a few that should be relatively easy to find:

·         LAN Reserva 2015 ($25). A little mazuelo is blended with tempranillo in this full-body gem from vineyards in Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa. It spends 18 months in oak – French and American – and 20 months in bottle. Classic red cherry and blackberry notes with a floral nose and velvet texture with hints of vanilla and spice. LAN’s simple crianza is a great value at $15.

·         CVNE Rioja Cune Reserva 2015 ($29).  We’ve seen this wine for a whole lot less in Costco. For a reserva, it’s a good deal if you can find it for under $20.  Ripe plum and black cherry flavors. The blend is 85 percent tempranillo with the rest being made up of garnacha, graciano and mazuelo.

·         Marques de Riscal Reserva 2015($20). Using grapes from Rioja Alavese, this enduring label has been in our households for decades. Its regular crianza sells for less than $15 and is delicious. The reserve just shows more depth and character. Fresh and elegant with cherry flavors and good complexity.

·         Bodegas Palacio Glorioso Reserva Rioja 2015 ($15). Made entirely from tempranillo, this wine represents an outstanding value from Rioja. Bright plum and cherry fruit notes, medium tannins, and a very long finish. A great starter wine for those wishing to explore tempranillo and Rioja.         

·         Montebueno Cuvee KPF Rioja 2018 ($10). A nice introduction to Rioja and the tempranillo grape. Fairly simple with ripe and dried cherry notes and soft tannins. A good wine for the price.                                                                                                                                  

·         Vina Bujanda Tempranillo Rioja 2018 ($12). More expressive than the Montebueno with cherry and plum notes along with elements of cedar and tobacco. Quite a bit of complexity for the price.                                                                                                                                              

·         Cune Crianza Rioja 2016 ($16). Black cherry with licorice and sandalwood elements. This needs at least 30 minutes to open.                                                                          

·         Montana Rioja Reserva 2014 ($20). As a reserva, you expect more body and this wine delivers. More of an old-style of Rioja with more pronounced oak notes and candied cherry and plum flavors. Very long finish.     

Wine picks

·         Chateau la Sauvageonne Terrasses du Larzac Grand Vin 2017 ($40). We loved this extravagant blend from the Languedoc-Roussillon area of southern France. Grenache, mouvedre and carignan add to the syrah foundation of this complex and spicy wine with dark berries notes.

·         Knotty Vines Chardonnay California 2018 ($15). Nice apple and tropical fruit notes with almost no discernable oak influences. Very refreshing.

·         Wentworth Pinot Noir Anderson Valley Nash Mill Vineyard 2018 ($66). This is a very good Anderson Valley pinot noir featuring bright cherry, cranberry and rhubarb notes. Very nice, elegant mouthfeel with a lingering finish.                                                                                  Romance and wine are a perfect marriage

(February 8, 2021)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

There may be no other holiday as contrived as Valentine’s Day. A Hallmark occasion that leaves little forgiveness for the scrooges who forget, it is a holiday that handsomely rewards florists, greeting card companies and candymakers the most. But if there is one redeeming value to the centuries-old holiday with murky origins, it is to embrace love.

And that brings us to the story of Christi and Dave Ficeli, a Napa Valley couple who while engaged dreamed of owning a winery – and then bought one several years later. Not everyone can realize wedding dreams this extravagant but Christi Coors, the granddaughter of beer magnate Adoph Coors, had a head start.

Christi was learning the wine trade at E&J Gallo when Cupid landed on her shoulder in the name of Dave Ficeli. During the courtship, the lovebirds stopped at a Napa Valley wine bar and got caught up in the bartender’s exuberant description of a syrah. Over dinner one night, they dreamed of creating a cabernet sauvignon that could evoke an equal reaction. 

Christi spent some time in the Coors family business while Dave was with Beringer Blass Wine Estates. The couple got married in 2003 and hung onto their dream despite a couple of detours to the Midwest. 

Christi’s acquisition of Goosecross in 2012 reunited them with Napa Valley and winemaker Bill Nancarrow who discovered an exceptional source to fulfill the couple’s dream project of making extraordinary cabernet sauvignon.

Thus was born C. Elizabeth, named after three inspiring Elizabeths in the Coors family. The launch of the 2014 vintage got the desired impact at $150.

“We wanted to do something that mattered to us. That’s always been our goal,” Christi said during a virtual tasting of C. Elizabeth wines.

Nancarrow, a New Zealand native who made wine for Duckhorn Wine Company for 10 years, was involved in rehabilitating Goosecross and was excited to find Game Farm Vineyard, a special place in Oakville that has provided grapes for the likes of Honig and Groth. The rocks that dominate the Rock Pit block bear a resemblance to vineyards in Chateauneuf-du-Pape that lack topsoil. The large rocks retain heat and make the vines stretch deep for water. Nancarrow likes the natural acidity, bright fruit, finesse and aromatics that come from this vineyard.  He also draws grapes from the Trailside block where the red loam topsoil adds what he calls “flesh” to the cabernet sauvignon.

What makes C. Elizabeth unusual in Napa Valley is its reliance on American oak, a bold approach made after the couple fell in love with American-oak-inspired Penfold’s Bin 707. Although American oak is common in Spain and Australia, most winemakers find it too aggressive. Nancarrow, however, has found reliable and less aggressive oak in Pennsylvania and Missouri.

We tasted four vintages of the C. Elizabeth Game Farm Vineyard cabernet sauvignon and clearly there was an evolution from the showy and accessible 2014 to the firmer 2016. Much of it is due to being more selective with the American oak but the 2016 is also more textured and broader because of the introduction of grapes from the Trailside block.

These are powerful yet elegant cabernet sauvignons with a depth of flavor in a classy package. At this price, they aren’t for everyday drinking, however.

As to the price, Dave said, “We were not trying to fill a consumer need. We built (the brand) from our perspective. It’s the opposite of what you learn. We have passionate ambassadors – friends and family who build their own concentric ring of followers.”

The 2016 and 2017 cabernet sauvignons, made in small quantities, are sold direct to consumer via its website. The Ficelis are generously donating 50 percent of the 2017 vintage sold before March 15 to the fire relief fund in cooperation with the Napa Valley Community Foundation.

Valentine Day picks

Not everyone will be able to serve $150 wines for a homecooked Valentine’s Day dinner. There are alternatives.

Australia loves its quirky names. Loveblock wines are easy to find and leave an impression. The sauvignon blanc runs around $20 a bottle and the pinot noir cost about $35.  D’Arenberg makes a delicious Lovegrass Shiraz for under $20 and we’ve always been a fan of Mollydooker’s Carnival of Love ($80).

You may want to have sparkling wine on hand to set the mood. Proseccos from Mionetto, Ruffino and La Marca sells for less than $12 a bottle. If you want to leave a better impression, think champagne.  Nicolas Feuillatte, Ayala, Montaudon and Pommery can be found for less than $40.

If bubbles aren’t your thing – what's the matter with you? -- rosé is rose in a bottle. The splash of color and the chilled red fruit flavors can just as easily set the mood as sparkling wine. Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie put their names on an excellent Miraval rosé from Provence before their marriage fell apart. Sarah Jessica Parker of “Sex and the City” makes Invivo rosé from southern France too. Serve one of these and stream a movie.

If you’re planning to use the occasion to break up, The Prisoner might be a good introduction to the conversation.  Buy two bottles and call it a separation. What fun!

Maybe you want to splurge because you just won the Mega Lottery. Consider Cliff Lede Rock Block “Dancing Heart” Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($110). A rock music fan, Cliff Lede names his blend after two blocks of vineyards: Rush’s “Closer to the Heart” block and Bruce Springsteen’s “Dancing in the Dark” block in the Twin Peaks Vineyard. You know the background music to play.

Otherwise, here’s just some good red wines that won’t break the bank:

·         Lost Eden Red Blend 2018 ($20).  Made in the country of Georgia – arguably the birthplace of wine – this blend made by an 11th-generation winemaker and dominated by the saperavi grape. Both the flesh and the skin of this variety are red, thus making the wine dense and earthy with dark fruit flavors and a sort of wildness that is intriguing to the palate. Very unique.

·         Primus “The Blend” Apalta Colchagua Chile 2017 ($19). This is a delightful blend made of the five noble Bordeaux varieties plus carmenere. Although press materials describe cabernet sauvignon as “the basis” of this blend, this wine doesn’t feature the bell pepper notes that you sometimes find in Chilean cabernet sauvignon. Very smooth with plum and cherry flavors and scents this wine is a delight to drink.

Raeburn Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2019 ($25). Consumers may find $25 expensive, but in the pinot noir category it is inexpensive. Ripe red berry flavors with a hint of spice and vanilla

Rodney Strong’s good buys

(February 1, 2021)

y TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Rodney Strong Vineyards has been a staple for us for decades. A label created by a successful dancer who turned to his second love after retiring, Rodney Strong was Sonoma County’s 13th bonded winery in 1959 and holds title to many pioneering efforts. Today Rodney Strong is getting a refresher with new, innovative fermenting tanks, replanted vineyards and new labeling. 

The property has particularly prospered after the Klein family purchased Rodney Strong in 1989. Many of its labels – Chalk Hill chardonnay, Symmetry and Alexander Crown cabernet sauvignon – are icons in Sonoma County.  

The 2018 Rodney Strong Vineyards Chalk Hill Chardonnay ($22) was Rodney Strong’s favorite wine and remains one of the best values in chardonnay. Winemaker Justin Seidenfeld attributes the success of this wine to the dense soil cap, which yields small berries and low production.  Ripe pear and stone fruit flavors, he explained, are also a result of the warmer climate in this part of Sonoma County. 

At $25 the 2017 Rodney Strong Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is one of the best buys in this category. The grapes from two regions with different micro-climates give the medium-body wine a broad palate that ranges from red to dark fruit.  This is a great pinot noir to just sip. 

Sporting a new label, the 2016 Rodney Strong Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ($45) is a nice balance between power and finesse. It spends 30 months in French oak barrels, half of which is new oak. Fruit forward with a velvet texture. 

The 2016 Symmetry ($55) is a blend of all five Bordeaux grape varieties with cabernet sauvignon comprising 70 percent. Made by Rodney Strong since 1996, Symmetry is a winemaker’s blend of grapes not used in the single-vineyard wines. Seidenfeld said the “idea is to make a wine based on structure.” 

The 2016 Brother’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($75) from Alexander Valley is a show stopper with intense dark fruit notes and hints of mocha, vanilla and licorice. Rodney Strong drops 20 percent of the crop in order to use nothing but the best fruit for this terrific wine. 

Tenth Ward Distillery 

We stumbled onto Tenth Ward Distillery on a recent day trip to Frederick, Maryland. Located on S. Patrick St. downtown, Tenth Ward is hardly unique in Frederick since it is the current home to a total of 5 currently operating distilleries. With a population of a little over 72,000, this makes it the highest per capita number of distilleries in any town in America, according to Monica Pearce, self- described “Founder and Boss Lady” of Tenth Ward Distilling.  

Sporting a “Whiskey Woman” shirt we recently met with Monica the first female owner of a Maryland distillery to hear her story and taste her spirits. 

Monica credited Frederick County office of economic development with significantly contributing to their success. Holding to their slogan of “Ward Off Ordinary” (you can buy the t-shirt), Tenth Ward is proud of the diversity of their employees and local sourcing of all grains used in distilling. In addition to female ownership, which is only 1 percent of all distilleries in the U.S., Tenth Ward also employs a black female as assistant distiller Kachnetha (Kay) Bennett. This trend of female involvement in distilling follows a significant trend of increasing female spirits drinking, with fully 37 percent of spirits consumed by women.  

Local sourcing of raw materials is important to Pearce.  All grains come from Rippon Lodge Farm in West Virginia and apples for their apple brandy come from McCutcheons in Frederick. Even the water used for proofing their whiskey is spring water from the Catoctin Mountains.  

We tasted Tenth Ward’s spirits in its repurposed, industrial tasting room.  

We really enjoyed the truly unique take on the Tenth Ward Smoked Corn Whiskey ($30-750ml). Made from 80 percent smoked corn and 20 percent malted barley this clear spirit is a must for mezcal lovers. Corn notes blend with smokey notes in a very smooth package, that comes across as an easier to drink mezcal. 

The Tenth Ward Smoked Bourbon ($40-750ml) is another spirit made from the smoked corn and malted barley, but here it is aged in new American white oak barrels for 6 months. This  bourbon for scotch lovers exhibits scotch-like notes with a hint of smoke. Very smooth and agreeable. 

The Tenth Ward Stouted Rye ($45-750ml), our favorite, is crafted from a 70 percent rye, 30 percent barley mash bill and aged in American oak. It spends time in local Flying Dog Brewery Gonzo Imperial Porter barrels. This delicious rye exhibits classic spicy rye and chocolate notes with a sweetness more like a bourbon.  

Tenth Ward also produces a seasonal liqueur several times a year. Their current iteration is the Tenth Ward Autumn Liqueur ($45-750ml), an apple brandy crafted from locally sourced apples. Ten ingredients are added to the base but the ginger, cinchona bark (the source of quinine), black tea and honey dominate. It is mildly sweet but the cinchona bark adds a slight bitterness to create a balanced elixir.  

Only two distillers on the East Coast attempt a version of absinthe, and Tenth Ward is one of them. The Tenth Ward Absinthe Nouvelle is the real deal, sporting an ABV of 70 percent (140 proof), and includes the essential spices of anise, fennel and wormwood. Pleasantly herbal with licorice notes Tenth wards version is as good as we have tasted. Sante! 

Wine picks 

• La Valentina Riserva Spelt Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2016 ($25). This is a classic, well- made Montepulciano D’Abruzzo featuring deep and rich cherry and berry notes with leather accents. Great to pair with winter meat dishes.                                                                                             

• Charles Krug Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2017 ($45). Charles Krug offers well-made Napa Valley wines at decent prices. This cabernet sauvignon offers a lot of quality for a modest price, at least by Napa Valley standards. Cranberry, cherry, and cassis elements are accented by herbal notes that create a very interesting and complex glass of wine. 

• Primus Carmenere Apalta, Colchagua Chile 2018 ($19). Bright and fresh cherry fruit flavors with a pleasant spicy edge.       

• Raeburn Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2019 ($20). Pear and apple notes abound in this very reasonably priced chardonnay. Toasted vanilla and soft mouthfeel. 

Great values from Portugal

(January 26, 2021)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Most people think of port when they think of Portugal. But in recent years this region is finally becoming recognized for something more than its well-respected but sweet fortified wine.  There are some great values coming from Portugal and consumers should not be deter by the unfamiliar 250 grape varieties.  

Grapes have been growing in Portugal for 2,000 years but numerous interruptions have stalled its climb in international circles. Vineyards were ripped up and replanted to wheat during the Arab occupation from 711 to 1249.  Then, starting in 1756, protectionism by the Douro region required farmers to uproot their vines again. The industry bounced back in the late 19th century, but was devasted by root disease, wars and economic depression. Not until a concerted effort was made to create official districts called DOCs in the 1980s did the region’s wine become internationally recognized. 

We tasted several blends from the Alentejo region, a sun-drenched region that is about the size of Massachusetts, and were impressed by their drinkability. These are wines that represent good values and are structured to satisfy most palates without additional aging.  Blending is common to this region’s wines.  

Don’t be discouraged by the unfamiliar grape varieties. Here are several blends we liked: 

• Cartuxa Evora Tinto Colheita DOC 2016 ($25). Aragonez, alicante bouschet and trincadeira go into this aromatic wine with red berries and velvet mouth feel. 

• Esporao Reserva Red DOC 2016 ($24). Jammy raspberry and red berry fruit with a full body and easy tannins. The blend consists of aragonez, trincadeira, cabernet sauvignon and alicante bouschet. 

• Adega de Borba Reserva Red DOC 2015 (18). Blackberry and plum notes with hints of white chocolate and spice. It is an easy drink with a medium body. 

• Carmin Reguengos Garrafeira dos Socios 2014 ($48). This wine shows the potential for ageworthy Portuguese blends. Alicante bouschet, touriga nacional and tinta caiada harmonize for a full-bodied wine with soft tannins and jammy plum notes.  

• Casa Relvas Herdade de Sao Miguel Colheita Seleccionada Red 2017 ($15).  Syrah and cabernet sauvignon are blended with indigenous varieties alicante bouschet and touriga nacional to round off and broaden the flavor profile of this fun wine. Classic, ripe plum and raspberry notes with a dash of mint and spice. 

• Quinta da Fonte Souto Branca Portalegre 2018 ($25). Portalegre is part of the Alentejo wine region in Southern Portugal. Crafted from 75 percent arinto and 25 percent verdelho white grapes, this complex wine is barrel fermented, kept on its lees, and aged in French and Central European oak barrels. The resulting, stylish wine is a tremendous value and somewhat akin to a well-made white burgundy. Tropical fruit and citrus elements dominate in a very interesting and complex white wine.         

Other areas of Portugal produce good wine too. Here are a few: 

• Valados de Melgaco Reserva 2017 ($15). This fruity and expressive alvarinho from Moncao e Melgaco has ripe apple and stone fruit flavors.  

• Esporao Bico Amarelo 2019 ($12). Making its debut, this quaffable white wine is a blend of loureiro, alvarinho and avesso grapes. Bright fruit flavors with good acidity. 

• Quinta do Ameal Loureiro 2019 ($18). Nice citrus and mineral notes please the palate in this estate-grown wine made from loureiro grapes. 

Wine picks 

• Flora Springs Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2017 ($50). A sturdy, big-boned cabernet sauvignon that presents very bright cherry fruit with coconut and mocha notes. A very nice classic Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon at a fair price.      

• Dixie & Bass Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2018 ($18).  Drawing grapes from Washington’s Red Mountain region, this producer has created a juicy and delicious wine. Velvet texture with black cherry notes and hints of chocolate and vanilla. Worth every penny.           

• Umberto Cesari Liano Sangiovese Cabernet Sauvignon Rubicone IGT 2017 ($30). Rubicone is part of Emilia-Romanga region of northeast of Tuscany and famous for luxury car headquarters Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati, as well as iconic food brands Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma and Aceto Balsamic. Previously, Emilia-Romagna was known for its sweet style of cheap lambrusco that stormed U.S. shores in the 1970s. However, today lambrusco has evolved into a dry style better known in Italy. Sangiovese is becoming more recognized and this example from Umberto Cesari is an excellent example of this newfound interest. Very easy to drink and food friendly with ripe cherry and plum fruit notes, this reasonably priced table wine is a winner. The blend is 70 percent sangiovese and 30 percent cabernet sauvignon. 

• McIntyre Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir 2017 ($38). This terrific pinot noir is as beautiful on the inside as it is on the outside. Behind its attractive label is a burst of floral aromas and fresh raspberry, black cherry flavors with hints of spice and vanilla bean. Some of the grapes come from 40-year-old vines – a rarity in California pinot noir. 

• FEL Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2018 ($38). Sporting an attractive new label, this delicious pinot noir has a medium body with effusive red berry fruit, hint of spice and long finish. 

• Gary Farrell Olivet Lane Vineyard Chardonnay 2017 ($45). This historic vineyard offers up cool weather and an aromatic wine with notes of honeysuckle, pears and apples. 

• Gary Farrell Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay 2017 ($65). Beautifully textured with elegance and concentration. Meyer lemons, lush pear fruit and nice mineral notes. 

• Steele Shooting Star Santa Barbara Chardonnay 2018 ($20). Steele makes some excellent, single-vineyard chardonnays at twice the price, but we see this as one of the best values in chardonnay. It is entirely fermented in stainless-steel tanks and transferred to used oak barrels for a finish. The result is a clean and light chardonnay that retains its natural acidity.  Tropical fruit notes. 

• Chasing Rain Red Blend 2018 ($24). From the Red Mountain AVA of Washington state, this Bordeaux-grape blend includes merlot (44 percent), cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc. Generous raspberry and anise aromas are chased by complex flavors of dark fruit and herbs. 

The wines of Sebastiani and Quilceda Creek

(January 20, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

When it comes to Sonoma County history, few wineries have the legacy of Sebastiani. Founded in the late 19th century by Samuele Sebastiani, the winery was one of many launched by Italian immigrants. It was passed down to several generations but ran into a buzz saw when a highly publicized family dispute broke the harmony in the mid 1980s.  Sam Sebastiani left to make his own wine under the Viansa label and now La Chertosa. His brother Don left after selling part of the brand to Constellation and currently makes wines as Don Sebastiani & Sons.  Finally, in 2008 the family sold Sebastiani to Bill Foley.  Painful transitions like this can’t help but affect quality, but it’s a story we’ve heard before. 

We have tasted Sebastiani wines for more than two decades and there seemed to be a stage when the brand fell into an uninspiring funk. Foley, who built a reputation on making fine wine and who has been on a buying spree, has restored the luster to the Sebastiani name. 

We recently shared a video screen with Mark Beaman, Sebastiani’s winemaker, and Sarah Quider, vice president of winemaking at Foley Family Wines. 

You don’t think of Sonoma County for its cabernet sauvignons because growing conditions can be inhospitably hot. But vineyards close to San Pablo Bay benefit from a cooling, maritime influence. Quider said that an early bud break gives grapes a longer hang time and produces wines with higher acidity, lower alcohol and brighter fruit. That separates them from the bolder, higher alcohol cabernets made in Napa Valley. 

Foley reduced the number of wines being made by Sebastiani, replanted estate vineyards with a focus on clones and rootstocks and limited yields. The four cabernets we tasted were exceptional, particularly the 2017 Sebastiani Cherryblock Cabernet Sauvignon, a flagship wine made mostly from grapes grown from the best blocks of its Old Vine Vineyard. Dark in color, it has generous blackberry and spice aromas following by plum and dark berry fruit flavors with a hint of tobacco. The blend includes 12 percent merlot and 3 percent malbec. 

Our favorite wine was the 2017 Sebastiani Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon ($72). Planted in 1961, the vineyard yields grapes stubbornly. Beaman said the vines are not sprinters, but marathon runners who hit their stride and produce wines with softer tannins. This one has a cassis nose and layers of cherry cola and blackberry flavors with fine tannins and a long finish. 

The 2017 Sebastiani Gravel Bed Cabernet Sauvignon ($72), blended with just enough malbec to make a difference, has a unique and intriguing character. Fruit forward with black cherry, blackberry notes and a hint of dried rosemary and espresso. 

The best value is the 2018 Sebastiani Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($40). Concentrated cranberry, blackberry and red cherry flavors with good acidity and a bright, young fruit character. 

Sebastiani also makes a good, oaky chardonnay for a very reasonable $24 a bottle and a merlot for $24. 

Quicela Creek 

Not many Washington producers have the history or the prestige of Quilcela Creek in the Columbia Valley. 

Founded by Alexander and Jeannette Golitzin, its first vintage was in 1979 and its premium red wines quickly gained attention beyond the state’s border. The family had a bit of notoriety then. Alexander’s father was a descendant of the winemaker to Russian Czar Nicholas II but he and his wife had to flee Russia at the outbreak of the Russian Revolution in 1917. Alexander, born in Paris, came with his family to California after World War II.  One of the first person’s they reunited with was Alexander’s uncle, the legendary Andre Tchelistceff, a Russian émigré.  

The family moved to Washington State in 1967 where Alexander worked as a chemical engineer. The more he tasted the red wines from the region, the more he realized they weren’t as good as those from his uncle’s winery in Napa Valley. He launched Quilceda Creek with the goal of making world-class cabernet sauvignons.  

About to release its 40th vintage of Columbia Valley cabernet sauvignon, Quilceda Creek is producing four astounding, albeit expensive, wines that fit into the premium category.  These are age-worthy wines that attack the palate. 

According to Paul Golitzin, winemaker since 1992, the prices offer “incredible value for cabernet lovers compared to wines of similar caliber in regions such as Bordeaux and Napa.” 

He said costs are driven in part by the challenges of farming the Horse Heaven Hills and Red Mountain AVAs. Only 10,000 cases are produced annually.  

Members of the Quilceda Creek’s mailing list are given preference in sales – the average wait time to join the list is about a year. After the pre-release sales close, some of the wines are released commercially.  

“We strive to be in a league of our own,” Golitzin said. 

The proof is in the bottle: The 2017 Quilceda Creek “Palengat” Proprietary Red Wine and the 2017 “CVR” Columbia Valley Red Wine are extraordinary. 

Wine picks 

• Oak Farm Vineyards Mohr-Frye Ranches Block 417 Zinfandel ($35). From Lodi, this zinfandel has a lighter body with plum and cherry notes. This zinfandel has more restraint than many Lodi fruit bombs. 

• Mettler Family Vineyards Lodi Petite Sirah 2018 ($25). Classic opaque color portends serious wine ahead, but actually this has both elegance and body. Plum and blackberry aromas hand off to concentrated blackberry flavors with a hint of pepper and licorice.  

• Scaia Garganega/Chardonnay 2018 ($14). This near-even blend from Italy is fresh and unadorned, thanks to its stainless-steel fermentation. A great aperitif, it has a citrus and tropical fruit aroma with apple and mango flavors. 

• Tenuta Sant’Antnio Nanfre Valpolicella 2018 ($15). This blend of corvina (70 percent) and rondinella has a refreshing, simple quality that makes it a great complement to appetizers and pasta dishes. Vibrant red fruit character. 

Zindandels take off the winter chill

(January 11, 2021)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

For many of us, winter means a blazing fireplace and Sunday stews. Those of us planning to be in warmer climates, it’s time for a jacket and maybe a brisk walk in the morning. No matter where you live, winter is the season to move to heartier red wines. 

There’s probably no other grape variety as American as zinfandel, a European grape variety introduced in the West Coast during the Gold Rush of the mid 19th century. A prolific grape of murky origin, zinfandel vineyards baked in California’s hot sun and produced a lot of grapes for jug wines. They served the home winemaker quite well during Prohibition when eager amateur winemakers preferred zinfandel because it was the earliest to ripen. 

Not only did zinfandel survive 13 years of this failed era, but its vineyards were largely spared the 1990s’ phylloxera scourge that decimated vineyards planted with old world varieties. Thus, many of the existing zinfandel vineyards, grown on St. George rootstock, are more than 100 years old.  

Today, vineyards planted with St. George rootstock in the 1920s continue to thrive in places like Lodi, where sandy soil acted as an irritant to the bedeviling root louse. Old vines have reduced vigor as they age, but the grapes are often intense. These vines look more like trees – known as “lodi ladders” -- because they were planted by arborists instead of viticulturists.  

Kevin Phillips of Phillips Farms grows grapes on the historic Bechthold Vineyard, first planted in 1886. He said of old vines, “When it’s said and done, they’re a pain in the ass. But I adore them. They just require a lot more care.” 

Zinfandel Advocates and Producers is on a quest to bring attention and preservation to these legendary zinfandel vineyards.  

The value of getting the last breath from withering vines may be more about pride than it is about producing superior wine. Those winemakers with whom we recently spoke admitted that it would grieve them to abandon a vineyard established by pioneers.  

Robert Biale, owner and president of Robert Biale Vineyards in Napa Valley, said he is part preservationist. He draws grapes from the R.W. Moore Vineyard which was planted by a seafarer in 1905. 

“Zinfandel has such a long, deep history – more than cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir. We’re just lucky to have this kind of urgency to keep them in the ground,” he said. 

Coaxing old, gnarly grape vines to produce fruit each year is akin to coaxing an old dog to chase a ball. The desire isn’t there, but a little encouragement goes a long way. Each vine has its own personality, so it is incumbent on experienced hands to patiently care for it. That’s why you won’t find single-vineyard zinfandels in the portfolios of large commercial producers who look for bigger yields. 

Why bother with these vines? Old zinfandel vines produce wine of great concentration and suppleness. Every time we taste one of these giants, we taste terroir, history and, of course, layers of beautiful fruit. 

These single-vineyard zinfandels are very different from one another but their intensity puts them above the pack. They are very special. 

• Michael David Ancient Vine Bechthold Vineyard Cinsaut 2018 ($25). Philips said Michael David has been buying grapes from this vineyard since 2003.  He compared the divisions of this vineyard to the Game of Thrones – sections are designated for each winemaker with some selling some of their harvest to other producers. We couldn’t get enough of the juicy cherry and strawberry flavors in this utterly delicious wine. 

• Maitre de Chai Stampede Vineyard Clement Hills Zinfandel 2018 ($35).  Grower Jeff Perlegos said the winemakers like this fruit because they can achieve “fairly ripe flavors and low alcohol and high acidity.” There is a lot of whole-cluster fermentation in this medium-body zinfandel. It’s not the fruit bomb you expect from zinfandel, which is a relief.  Ripe plum and raspberry flavors with balanced acidity. 

• McCay Cellars TruLux Vineyard Zinfandel 2016 ($35). This vineyard was planted in the 1940s. Raspberry, blueberry mix with graphite to evince an alluring bouquet. Blackberries and plums with hints of black pepper.  

• Turley Wine Cellars Kirschenmann Zinfandel 2018 ($32). Tegan Passalacqua, grower and winemaker, said pickers make several passes through the vineyard during harvest and the combination brings different layers of fruit and more complexity. Perfumy, floral nose with oodles of sweet cherry and blueberry flavors. 

• Biale Vineyards R.W. Moore Vineyard Zinfandel 2018 ($62).  Biale attributes the success of this gem to the layers of organic material that gives the Oak Knoll soil a “fluffy, gravelly” composition. This wine has a soft but intense structure with plum and earth notes. 

• Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel 2018 ($45). This producer has been making legendary zinfandel for years. Winemaker John Olney, like the others, feels lucky to have the Lytton Springs vineyard. The wine is a field blend of zinfandel, petite sirah, carignane and mataro. It is a lively and fresh wine with raspberry and plum flavors and effusive floral aromas. 

• Louis M. Martini Monte Rosso Vineyard Gnarly Vines Zinfandel 2017 ($75). The name Louis Martini is legendary in itself but so is the Monte Rosso Vineyard.  Michael Eddy, director of winemaking, said Martini – a “pretty scrappy dude” – bought the Red Mountain Vineyard in 1938.  Eddy points to the red soil that gives the mountain its name and the wine its acidity and ripeness. Lots of dusty earth notes with spice punctuating the dark fruit flavor. The wine is like eating a slice of raspberry pie with juice oozing out the side. Concentrated, full-bodied and long in the finish with a hint of cooking spices.  This epic wine is worth every penny. 

• Klinker Brick Rauser Vineyard Carignane 2017 ($25).  More than zinfandel is grown on old vines. This carignane from 110-year-old vines is generous in forward cherry, cassis and blackberry fruit. Hints of clove and oak. 

Wine picks 

• Raeburn Winery Russian River Chardonnay 2019 ($20). This is one of the best bargains in chardonnay. It is a full assault of generous apple and pear flavors with oak-driven notes of vanilla and toast. Nice, round mouthfeel. 

• Be Human Red Blend 2018 ($17). The name alone is reason to pick up a bottle, but inside is a barrelful of fresh, exuberant cherry and blackberry flavors. From the Columbia Valley, the wine from Aquilini Family Wines is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, malbec and cabernet franc. We also like the producer’s Dixie & Bass Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($18). 

• Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2018 ($35).  This medium-body, lush pinot noir exudes juicy cherry flavors and a dash of spice. 

Looking for cheap wines?

(January 4, 2021)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR

We are convinced that a talented winemaker can make a good, cheap wine just as well as a great, expensive wine. But there is considerable effort being made in California to produce ridiculously expensive wines just to raise a winery’s image.

There is no dearth of prestigious wines. Domaine de la Romanee-Conti has an unassailable reputation and its grand cru sells for roughly $20,000 a bottle. Napa Valley’s Screaming Eagle was soaring under the radar until wine potentate Robert Parker Jr. gave it 99-point scores. Now, its prices soar at dizzying heights. The sauvignon blanc – a sauvignon blanc! – commands more $5,000 a bottle and gets an average 91-point score.

There are wines at a fraction of that cost scoring much higher. So, do you really want to spend this money on a bottle of wine? Clearly, most of you don’t.

We haven’t tasted Domaine Romanee-Conti or Screaming Eagle and suspect we never will. But we’ve had plenty of wines that cost more than $100 and even they are hard to justify the cost. There is a sea of wines at $20-30 that satisfy our interests. And, on occasion, we’ll splurge for a $70 bottle. But unless you really know your wine, it’s risky to pay this kind of money if you aren’t convinced that you’ll like the wine.

Price isn’t always a reliable barometer to determine what you’ll like. We’ve done plenty of blind tastings for friends and rarely does a taster pick the most expensive candidate as the one he or she likes the best. On the other hand, an inexpensive wine with fruit-forward character and minimal acidity seems to grab the most attention.

A friend asked us to taste an Argentinian wine the other day, convinced we would pan something sold at Trader Joes. Indeed, we didn’t expect much from a tempranillo made in Argentina. But, guess what? At $4 a bottle, we wouldn’t be embarrassed to serve it to guests. 

The average cost of a bottle of wine is around $15. The pandemic has driven up that average cost because people stuck in their homes are splurging on wine. Retailers are reporting brisk sales in the $30-plus price category – still cheaper than what a consumer would pay in most restaurants.

There is a significant tradeoff for bargain prices. You won’t find much complexity in cheaper wines because many don’t see the inside of expensive French oak barrels and the source of the grapes are from less prestigious regions, such as Central Valley in California. But, if you’re willing to trade off complexity, body and depth, there is a world of satisfying wines awaiting you. Here a half-dozen gems we recently tasted:

·         Enate Tempranillo Somontano 2018 ($12). This is an amazingly good wine for the price. A very ripe expression of tempranillo from this somewhat obscure wine region tucked into the northeast corner of Spain. Lovely notes of fresh plum, cherries and herbs and a minimal expression of oak create a great package.    

·         La Finca Oak-Aged Tempranillo 2020 ($4). Frankly, we don’t know how the producer can make any money – the bottle, labeling and processing has to absorb three-fourths of the cost. It’s aged for only three months, so don’t get too excited. However, the wine is delicious. From Argentina, it is light color with forward blackberry and cherry notes. No complexity, but delicious for the price. 

·         Knotty Vines Chardonnay California 2018 ($15). Nice apple and tropical fruit notes with almost no discernable oak influences. Very refreshing.

·         Knotty Vines Pinot Noir California 2018 ($15). Refreshing fruit redolent of cherry and strawberry.                                                                                                                      

·         Mottura Negroamaro Del Salento IGT Puglia 2018 ($15-20). This is a grapey, full-bodied red wine from the Puglia region of Italy. Not overly complicated, it is just an abundantly fruity wine that is easy to drink.       

·         Roaming Dog Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2019 ($14). Aged in stainless-steel tanks for 8 months, this chardonnay doesn’t have the complexity of an oak-aged wine, but its simple, pure fruit character is something to appreciate.  Ripe pear notes and fresh acidity.   

Wines from Sicily

Sicily is one of the most overlooked wine growing regions in Europe.  We are regularly impressed with discovering both red and white gems from this largest island in the Mediterranean Sea.

Here are a couple we have tasted from Tasca d’Almerita:

·         Tenuta Whitaker Mozia Grillo 2019 ($22). Aged three months on the lees in stainless steel, this unfiltered wine is fresh and abundant in fresh apple and stone fruit flavors. From the tiny island of Mozia on the western side of Sicily, grillo is grown on little, wind-swept bushes. Very unique. Citrus and grapefruit notes with a touch of minerality.  If you like pinot grigio, you’ll like grillo.

·         Capofaro Didyme 2019 ($26). Made entirely of Malvasia di Lapari grapes from the island of Salina north of mainland Sicily, it is aged four months on the lees in stainless steel. This wine has unique flavors that may not appeal to all palates.  Floral aromas with peach flavors and a hint of almonds.

Wine picks

·         Talbott Sleep Hollow Vineyard Chardonnay 2017 ($42). The luxurious quality of this chardonnay is an ideal match to fish and fowl. The pear and tropical fruit aromas are enough to enjoy without food. Add the juicy pineapple and apricot flavors with hints of spice and you have a hedonistic, creamy gem for the table.

·         The Hilt Estate Chardonnay 2017 ($45). New to the lineup, this chardonnay makes its debut with the 2017 vintage. Good balance of lushness and acidity, it has stone fruit flavors and nice minerality.

·         Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Chardonnay 2017 ($24). You get a decent, food-friendly chardonnay for the price here. Soft mouthfeel with oodles of peach and pear notes with a touch of citrus and oak.

·         Luce Lucente 2017 ($30). Tuscan wine producers learned long ago that sangiovese can have too much acidity. Adding merlot to soften the wine takes the traditional chianti to another level. The second label of a pricier Luce, this sangiovese/merlot blend has a red berry jam aroma with raspberry and black cherry flavors and hints of tobacco and licorice. It is light enough to be enjoyed with turkey but offsets cranberries, sausage and other side dishes too.

Ram’s Gate, Cornas, prosecco and more

(December 28, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Joe Nielsen had his sights set on medical school when he was at Michigan State University, but the campus’ lush horticultural gardens distracted him. He didn’t want to be a farmer but instead he was drawn to the oenology program at MSU. Unfortunately, at age 17 he wasn’t old enough to enroll in a program focused on making alcohol. While he waited for his 21st birthday, he asked his parents if he could plant a vineyard on their property just outside of Lansing. 

“Mom said ‘go for it,’” he said.  And that was the inauspicious beginning of a winemaking career. 

Nielsen has come a long way since nurturing French hybrid grapes in his parents’ back yard. After the professors caved and let him enroll in the oenology class, he moved to California with an internship at Merryvale Vineyards in Napa Valley and later at Donelan Family Wines where he became a cellar master at age 23 and then winemaker at 28. His medical career took a back seat. 

Today, Nielsen is attracting a lot of attention as winemaker at Ram’s Gate, where we recently caught up with him. He introduced a holistic approach to farming in this Carneros AVA to get the best use of soils and water needs. Organic farming is the foundation of creating ideal vineyards that produces better grapes and ultimately better wines. 

“These vineyards have their own heartbeat,” he said. “After working with them, I’m able to capture their great personalities while also abiding by our own set of rules – higher acids, lower alcohol, fruit friendly a timeless style that exists throughout Europe.” 

Ram’s Gate has a variety of wines, many on a premium level, but Nielsen said he’s still building the portfolio.  

“I approach it like we’re making an album. A great musician is not a one-hit wonder. It’s way more gratifying to listen to a collection,” he said. 

• Ram’s Gate Berler Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($115). Using grapes from high-elevation vineyards, Nielsen has crafted a textured wine with effusive black cherry notes and hints of tobacco, chocolate and spice. 

• Ram’s Gate El Diablo Chardonnay 2018 ($70). Lasting citrus flavors with some apricot notes and a soft mouthfeel.  

• Ram’s Gate Carneros Estate Pinot Blanc 2019 ($38). One of the underrated grape varieties on the West Coast, pinot blanc delivers a lot of fresh pear notes, floral aromas and soft mouthfeel. A great alternative to chardonnay and sauvignon blanc.  

Cornas 

Undoubtably one of the more obscure appellations in France is Cornas, located in the Northern Rhone Valley.  

In a recent column we wrote about the more widely known of the Northern Rhone appellations and ignored the smallest red wine appellation, Cornas. In a stroke of luck, we recently met with Jeffrey Feinberg, president of Citadel Trading Corp., who imports Alain Voge Cornas. 

Alain Voge recently died at age 81 and we’re sorry to have not met him after tasting his wines. We tasted two wines from the even more obscure Saint-Peray region. 

Cornas is the smallest of the red wine producing regions of Northern Rhone, where all of the red wines must be 100 percent syrah.  

We were especially impressed with the Alain Voge Cornas Les Chailles 2018 ($55). Like all of Alain Voge wines, this one is from organically grown and biodynamically farmed grapes. Forty-year-old vines have produced a wonderful, drinkable Cornas that featured berry and gamey meat flavors with a whiff of floral notes. Classic old world Cornas. 

We also tasted the Alain Voge Cornas Vieilles Vignes 2017 ($80). When they say old vines, they mean it. An average of 60-year-old vines produced the fruit in this wine. Berry notes and some enticing spiciness are apparent but in a more reticent presentation than the previous Cornas. Give this wine some serious time (5 years plus) to reveal its charms for a long life. 

St Peray is immediately to the south of Cornas and only grows white grapes. Known primarily for sparkling white wine, they also produce a bit of still white wine from mostly marsanne and roussanne grapes.  

In the 1800s Saint-Peray produced a highly prized sparkling wine that rivaled champagne, but fell out of favor when quality flagged after the arrival of the phylloxera disease. That early quality tradition is evident in the Alain Voge Saint-Peray Les Bulles d’Alain 2015 ($38) sparkling wine. Made entirely from marsanne and in the traditional champagne method, this bubbly is a dead ringer for a quality grower champagne. Yeasty with ripe fruit and citrus, this beauty was aged for 3 years on the lees and not exposed to any oak influences. 

Prosecco 

As we plunge into a new and hopefully better year, revelers will want to herald the occasion with bubbles. In previous columns, we have recommended champagne and California sparkling wine. But not everyone can afford their lofty prices. For those on a budget, prosecco strikes a bargain. 

Made in the Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia regions of northern Italy, prosecco has come a long way since the days it competed with Asti Spumante for sweetness. Proseccos are still off-dry, but their quality has improved in recent years. Unlike sparkling wine made anywhere else, prosecco leans mostly on the indigenous glera grapes. 

If you insist on quality, look for prosecco designated by the villages of Conegliano, Valdobbiadene and Asolo. Those made by Adami are good examples. 

Otherwise, look for the reasonably priced Ruffino, Mionetto and La Marca proseccos.  

Wine picks 

• Flora Springs Soliloquy White Wine 2019 ($50). This is a mouthfilling white wine that presents a fruit bowl of scents and flavors. Citrus, pear, melon and fig all clamor for attention in this wonderful white wine than has an amazingly smooth mouth presence and finish. Sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and malvasia make an appearance along with some judiciously used French oak. Delightfully different. 

• Cartograph Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2017 ($45).  A good value even at this price, the Cartograph has cherry and cinnamon aromas with black cherry, raspberry and dried herb flavors.   

• Stags’ Leap Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($60). A little bit of malbec, petit verdot and merlot join this floral, medium-body cabernet sauvignon that is bold yet approachable. Extracted blackberry and kirsch flavors with hints of tobacco and cocoa. 

• J. Lohr Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($35). For 23 years this Paso Robles producer has been making this sure-fire hit from the best blocks of its Shotwell Vineyard. Lohr wines are known for their fruit-forward, juicy style and this one doesn’t disappoint. Black cherry and cassis flavors complement a generous, soft mouthfeel. 

• District 7 Monterey Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($18).  Beautiful pineapple, peach and orange-peel notes with crisp acidity. 

Craig Becker designing great wines at Priest Ranch

(December 21, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Craig Becker is a man of many titles: co-founder of Somerston Wine Co., general manager and director of winemaking. But the title that seems to have captured most attention is vineyard designer.  

We never heard a winemaker talk so passionately about how he designs a plot of land, but it makes sense if you see the challenging terrain of the hilly eastern Napa Valley. With elevations ranging from 800 to 2,400 feet, a variety of soils and tractor-defying hillsides, Becker has to design a vineyard to make the best use of et the sun, water and soil best suited for specific grape varieties. In some of his vineyards, high and low temperatures can swing 50 degrees. 

“I spend a lot of time designing vineyards,” he confessed. “From a winegrower’s standpoint, designing a vineyard makes the wine process a whole lot easier.” 

During a virtual tasting, Becker said vineyard design is a multi-generational project for the family owned winery. “We’re laying the foundation for the next 10, 100 years,” he said. “There’s a lot of pressure to get it right.” 

One would think that it would be far easier to just blend the grape varieties that come begrudgingly from these ornery vineyards, but Becker loves to pull some of them out for special bottlings. We loved the 2015 Priest Ranch Coach Gun ($80) blend of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot and malbec. But more fun is tasting these single-block grape varieties when bottled individually. 

The 2015 Priest Ranch Block 136 Cabernet Sauvignon ($75) is a muscular wine with firm tannins, layered dark fruit flavors and generous aromas that speak of terroir in this block 1,400 feet in elevation. A whopping 16 percent alcohol adds to the body of this immense wine. Becker said alcohol level is a tradeoff. He understands consumers don’t like wines with harsh tannins, so he gives the grapes longer hang time to achieve sugar ripeness and thus more alcohol. We are not complaining. 

The 2015 Priest Ranch Block 81 Malbec ($75) is one of the best California malbecs we have tasted. The winemaker has achieved a nice balance of brawn and finesse. Smooth texture but deceiving tannins project longevity for those who have the patience to wait.  It shows off plum, blackberry and blueberry flavors with a dash of vanilla. 

We also enjoyed the inky, dense 2015 Priest Ranch Block 100 Petit Verdot. Although we always thought of this grape variety as shallow, this one is opulent with dark fruit flavors, a long finish and full body. 

These wines are made in small quantities. 

Less than 300 acres of the 1,600-acre estate are planted to grapes. The lush woodland and indigenous grass fields were fuel to the Hennessy and other fires that swept through Napa Valley. Thanks to employing a private fire-fighting force, Becker saved his house. But a lot of vineyards were hit by fire and smoke. Alas, Becker decided not to make any wine in 2020 and focus on replanting 20 acres of vines.  Buy the 2015 while you can. 

Post & Beam 

Far Niente Winery has been making wine since 1979 but in recent years it has added new labels to diversify its portfolio. Dolce, an exquisite late-harvest dessert wine, was added in 1988, Nickel & Nickel in 1997 and Enroute in 2017. New this year is Post & Beam, a label for ready-to-drink chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. 

We had a chance to participate in a virtual tasting with Andrew Delos, Far Niente’s director of winemaking, and Michael Accurso, winemaker. 

Delos said that Post & Beam is based on specific lots, normally blended into other wines, that were singled out for their unique character – much like Priest Ranch. 

“They are very expressive of the site,” he said.  “They may not offer the texture for Far Niente, so sometimes we keep them separate. Post & Beam was formed out of this process. We wanted to showcase them.” 

The 2019 Post & Beam Napa Valley Chardonnay ($35) is quite a contrast to Far Niente’s bold, viscous and textured chardonnays. Medium in body and void of oak, it has bright acidity and pure stone-fruit character to make it an easy sipper or a good match with fish. Delos likened it to the austere chardonnays from Chablis. 

The 2018 Post & Barn Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($50) is bolder with youthful tannin and bright fruit flavors. We enjoyed the lively plum, cassis and black berry flavors and generous aromatics. 

Accurso said they first deconstructed the vineyard sites that were blended into other brands and then constructed the Post & Beam profile.  

There isn’t a lot of complexity or depth in these wines but that’s not the intent.  

Wine picks 

• Bonterra The McNab 2016 ($50). Using grapes from the biodynamically farmed McNab Vineyard, Bonterra has a delicious, forward blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and old-vine petite sirah.  Pure flavors of raspberries and plum mingle with dark fruit aromas and a hint of spice. 

• Flying Solo Grenache Blanc/Viognier 2019 ($16).  From southern France, this white blend is just pure fun. Bright stone fruit and citrus notes with a rich texture. 

• The Hilt Estate Chardonnay 2018 ($45).  We have come to admire this richly textured chardonnay from Sta. Rita Hills year after year.  White peach and pear notes with vibrant acidity. 

• Justin Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2017 ($34). Here is a topflight, dependable, cabernet sauvignon from the Paso Robles region. Bright fruit seems to be a hallmark of Paso Robles cabernet sauvignon and Justin is no exception. Plums and cherries with a good dose of appropriate oak makes for a terrific package.  

• Banshee Pinot Noir Sonoma County 2018 ($20-25). We really enjoyed this expression of pinot noir that displayed a somewhat tart version with rhubarb and plum elements. Aged in some new French oak barrels enhances this very food friendly pinot noir that tantalizes the palate.                                                                                                                                    

Russian River Valley’s terrific pinot noirs

(December 14, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

The Russian River Valley has a history of making some of the most seductive pinot noirs and chardonnays in California. Grapes ripen slowly and evenly here because morning and evening fogs cool the grapes and lengthen the season.  The climate is ideal for these grape varieties. 

There has been a recent focus on what winemakers call the six “neighborhoods” of the Russian River Valley: Middle Reach, Green Valley, Santa Rosa Plains, Laguna Ridge and Sebastopol Hills and Eastern Hills. The goal of the campaign is to get consumers to understand that not all Russian River Valley wines are the same, but instead unique wines that vary according to the range of soils. 

For Theresa Heredia, winemaker at Gary Farrell since 2012, there couldn’t be a better playground for a pinot noir devotee. Farrell makes single-vineyard pinot noirs and chardonnays from some of the most prestigious growers – Rochioli, Bacigalupi and Hallberg to name a few. A recent virtual tasting with her showed the differences a few miles can make. 

“My number one goal is to respect these amazing vineyards,” she said. “There are so many great ones with histories. Respecting the fruit is respectful of the wine in the end.” 

Heredia favors whole-cluster pressing, which produces more delicate, less bitter wines.   

It was hard to choose which of her single-vineyard pinot noirs we liked the best.  The Bacigalupi Vineyard pinot from the Middle Reach was delicious for its ripe, juicy character; the McDonald Mountain Vineyard pinot noir in Sebastopol Hills – the coolest neighborhood where vines struggle in the high winds and cold -- had great structure and concentration.  

Heredia also makes some incredible single-vineyard chardonnays. These wines are only available on its web site but Gary Farrell Russian River Valley’s blended pinot noir and chardonnay are widely available. 

Here are several pinot noirs from the Russian River Valley that we recently tasted and liked: 

• Gary Farrell Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017 ($55). Opulent black cherry and ripe blackberry flavors with hints of olive and tobacco.   

• Gary Farrell McDonald Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017 ($70). Fresh strawberry and cranberry aromas with lovely red fruit flavor and hints of licorice and cloves. Elegant and balanced. 

• Gary Farrell Russian River Selection Pinot Noir 2017 ($45). One of the best pinot noir producers in Russian River Valley, Farrell makes a consistently good and elegant pinot noir. Big red berry and floral aromas are followed by raspberry and cola flavors with a hint of forest floor and clove.   

• Inman Family Russian River Valley Special Blend Pinot Noir 2017 ($68). Kathleen Inman usually makes three vineyard-designated pinot noirs but in 2017 she decided to blend them to see if the whole is greater than the sum of its parts. Although we remain huge fans of her Olivet Grange Vineyard pinot noir, we find little to quibble with here. Floral, cherry and sage aromas are chased by an abundance of black cherry, raspberry and cranberry flavors with a good dose of fennel.  

• Emeritus Vineyards Wesley’s Reserve Pinot Noir 2017 ($75). Vintner Brice Cutrer Jones and vineyard manager Kirk Lokka planted Hallberg Ranch two decades ago and the fruits of their labor have paid off. Each year we are amazed by the vitality of the pinot noir from this special vineyard. Very rich with dense and savory dark fruit flavors with an underlying foundation in earthy forest floor.   

• J Vineyards Canfield Vineyard Pinot Noir 2016 ($75).  We like the general blackberry and violet aromas in this beautiful wine. Flavors of black cherry, plum and damp forest floor with a hint of cocoa and baking spice.  

• La Crema 40th Anniversary Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2018 ($100).  La Crema, a producer of outstanding single-vineyard pinot noirs, pulled out the stops for this exclusive anniversary pinot noir from the best grapes in its possession. Founding winemaker Rod Berglund teamed up with a current winemaker Jen Walsh to create this special pinot noir with power and concentration.  Raspberry aromas are followed by varietal black cherry flavors and a good dose of cocoa. Aged in French oak for 10 months. 

• Mi Sueno Winery Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2017 ($55). Floral aromatics are followed by ripe cherry flavors. Silky and lingering finish. 

• Siduri Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2018 ($40). Siduri makes pinot noir from several West Coast regions that are reasonably priced. This expressive version from the Russian River Valley is ready-to-drink with bright black cherry and raspberry flavors, medium body and a hint of mushrooms. The Santa Barbara pinot noir is a deal at $30.  

• River Road Stephanie’s Cuvee Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2017 ($30). Very reasonably priced, this medium-bodied pinot noir has simple and smooth cherry flavors with a dash of vanilla. 

• Kenwood Vineyards Six Ridges Pinot Noir 2017 ($30). You get a lot of fun in this value-priced pinot noir from the Russian River Valley. Elegant in style, it has fresh black cherry flavors. 

Wine picks 

• Hamel Family Wines Isthmus 2017 ($85). This approachable cabernet sauvignon blend from Sonoma has layered aromas of mint, earth, cedar, and raspberry. The flavors showcase the plum and red berry notes.  Long in the finish and soft mouthfeel, it is delicious now. 

• Dough Wines Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($19). A collaboration of Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners and the James Beard Foundation, Dough Wines is focused on sustainability. This sauvignon blanc from the North Coast offers ripe grapefruit flavors and a nice contrast between bright acidity and mouth-coating texture. 

• Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2017 ($30).  We loved this elegant and fruit-forward sangiovese. Bright dark fruit flavors with good acidity and finish. It’s big brother, the Poliziano Asinone ($63) is a bigger wine made from sangiovese in the property’s top vineyard. 

The first-growths of Napa Valley

(December 7, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

For decades California was known for reasonably priced wines that contrasted sharply with the expensive, iconic wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. However, that price gap has closed in recent years as California producers feel their red wines are every bit as good and have priced their wines accordingly.  

We’ve often mused over which Napa Valley producers would qualify as a first-growth, the top tier of a controversial classification established in the Medoc in 1855. Only five chateaus made the cut; another one was added in 1973.  The selection was based mostly on who was making the most expensive wine. p If the same criteria were applied to Napa Valley wines, the first-growths would be Screaming Eagle at $2,500 a bottle, Harlan, Opus One, Colgin, Bryant and Scarecrow to name just a few.  Napa producers making a trifling $200 wines – and there are many – wouldn't even be considered. 

If history was a factor in ranking top wines, there are only a handful of Napa Valley producers who were around in the late 19th century. Among them are Chateau Montelena, Beaulieu Vineyards, Chappellet, Spottswoode, Charles Krug, Beringer, Freemark Abbey and Inglenook. But over time these wineries have changed ownership and, in some cases, aren’t making first-growth-quality wines today.  

By 1975 more top producers were releasing their premium wines – Caymus, Joseph Phelps, Ridge, Louis Martini, Robert Mondavi, Heitz, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Shafer, Sullivan to name a few. Napa Valley was in full swing then. 

History and cost aside, though, who would you say produces first-growth-quality cabernets in Napa Valley today? 

Any answer is steeped in bias, of course. And, there are many more than five top producers who should make the cut. However, you would have to include Chateau Montelena, Caymus, Joseph Phelps, Chappellet and Heitz among the cabernet producers who have been around a long time and still making legendary wines. 

We haven’t had the privilege of tasting the uber-expensive cabernet sauvignons, so we can’t attest to their first-growth quality. However, there is a plethora of cabernets selling for $100 to $200 a bottle that one could argue are a bargain when compared to a $1,000 Colgin cabernet.  

If there is ever a year to indulge in reckless luxury, it’s 2020. Here are a few legendary cabernet sauvignons we have recently tasted that would make special holiday gifts for special people or yourself: 

• Robert Mondavi The Reserve To Kalon Vineyard 2017 ($175). This venerable Napa Valley producer, owned by Constellation since 2004, has tapped into the prestigious holdings of the To Kalon Vineyard in Oakville, a source for some of the best cabernet sauvignons. Mondavi has had the trademark To Kalon since 1988 and takes advantage of its spectacular fruit in this rich, full-bodied and complex cabernet sauvignon.  Only the best lots are used for The Reserve. This is as close as you’ll get to a “first growth” cabernet – aromatic with sage and black currants followed by a broad flavor profile of dark fruit, cassis and vanilla. 

• Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($175).  With a history that dates back to 1882, Chateau Montelena is an indisputable icon in Napa Valley. Although its chardonnay got the attention for besting French burgundy in the 1976 Judgment of Paris wine competition, its cabernet sauvignon deserves the gold.  This wine has a stunning, deep bouquet of red berries and dense black fruit flavors with hints of tea, leather and coffee. As a substitute, consider the 2017 Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($65). 

• Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars SLV Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($195). We’ve enjoyed this wine and the even better Cask 23 for years. Original owner and St. John’s College graduate Warren Winiarski is no longer at the helm, but his wine’s reputation lives on. His 1973 cabernet sauvignon beat Bordeaux in the Judgment of Paris competition. This 2017 cabernet sauvignon has effusive mushroom and violet aromas with plum and black fruit flavors, a dash of mineral, cocoa powder and fine tannins. 

• Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($145). An icon in Rutherford since 1936, this monster wine with chewy tannins has amazed us for decades. It has great structure, concentration, dense dark fruit and the classic “Rutherford dust” that makes the region so special. 

• Chappellet Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($250). The more complex and long-lived cabernets come from mountain-grown grapes. This gem from the esteemed Pritchard Hill sets the bar high. Layers of blue and dark fruit, licorice and herbal aromas linger alongside the concentrated ripe black cherry flavors and long finish. Not surprisingly, it earns the highest scores by wine critics. 

• Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($225).  Petit verdot and cabernet franc lend a hand to this concentrated cabernet sauvignon blend that begs for beef.  The fruit is deceivingly fresh but there is good concentration and finish to portend good things to come. Plum, mint, spice and hints of cocoa and vanilla. In 1985, Spottswoode became one of the first vineyards in Napa Valley to be farmed organically.  

• Sullivan Rutherford Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($110). Although this estate has been around since the 1970s, new owners are only now restoring its legacy with some amazing wines. The additional bottle age helps soften this delicious wine that balances finesse with power. It too possesses classic Rutherford Dust character. Velvety plum and opulent black cherry flavors with a dash of dark chocolate and ridiculous complexity. 

• Ladera Howell Mountain Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($115). Howell Mountain produces some of the most respectable cabernets in Napa Valley. This powerful version has fine tannins, hedonistically rich black cherry, cassis and blackberry flavors.  

Wine picks 

• Amici Olema Sonoma County Pinot Noir 2019 ($20). A good bargain for pinot noir, this wine has classic cherry and raspberry notes with hint of spice and vanilla. 

• Roaming Dog Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2019 ($14). This is one of the best values in chardonnay that we have tasted in a long time. Classic tropical fruit flavors and a hint of oak. 

• Decoy Limited Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($30). Duckhorn’s Decoy series continues to represent outstanding wines that outperform their prices.  We loved this wine for its rich, fruit-forward style. Lots of blackberry and cassis flavors with a hint of dark chocolate.  The Decoy Red Blend brings together a lush blend of merlot, zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon and tempranillo for the same price. 

Close out a bad year with champagne

(November 30, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

French champagne makers like to repeat a disputed quote from Napoleon Bonaparte who allegedly said, “In victory, you deserve champagne. In defeat you need it.” 

Even if the quote is unconfirmed, it certainly works in 2020.  

It has been reported that champagne sales skyrocketed after the presidential election. One Brooklyn, N.Y., retailer told the Robb Report that once the election was declared, there was a line outside his wine store. Champagne sales were up 600 percent – and he ran out. 

Alice Paillard, who co-manages the champagne house of Bruno Paillard with her father, said the same is true in French elections, except that more people drink bourbon if they don’t get the result they want. 

Even without an election, champagne sales soar in the last two months of the year when consumers pop a cork to celebrate the holidays. That’s certainly going to be the case this year when people are eager to put 2020 in the rearview mirror. Alas, it’s a shame to reserve champagne for just the last two months of a year.  Paillard said champagne can create a celebration when there isn’t one.  

“You can bring some joy into your life without having to wait for an exception to open a bottle,” she said. 

Prices for the best cuvees are high because the labor to produce them, but in many cases the prices are not that different from some of the California sparkling wines we’ve tasted. You can buy Pommery, Moet-Chandon, Nicolas Feuillatte and others for under $40.  We’ve seen many West Coast sparkling wines priced at more than $50 a bottle. 

Champagne producers are reporting another exceptional harvest – the third in a row. In anticipation of tariffs, distributors stocked up on champagne before prices changed. Paillard predicted the sales will end the year higher than those in 2019.  

If you are willing to open the wallet to ease into 2021, celebrate life or bring people together, here are some suggestions for luxury in a bottle: 

• Champagne Bollinger PN VZ15 ($120). New to Bollinger’s stellar lineup, the non-vintage PN showcases the pinot noir from Verzenay. It is the little, and less expensive brother of Bollinger’s vaunted Vieilles Vignes Francaises, which is also made entirely of pinot noir. Twenty percent of the PN VZ15 is from reserved wines aged in magnum since 2009. It is complex and luxurious with cherry and stone fruit notes. 

• Champagne Billecart Salmon Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru ($100). Nothing says luxury like Billecart Salmon. One our favorite champagnes year after year, it is exquisite and refined to perfection.  Creamy texture with citrus, almonds and mineral notes.  

• Champagne Lanson Black Label Brut ($40). A good value, this creamy champagne coats the palate with blackberry notes and a persistent finish. 

• Ruinart Blanc de Blanc ($78).  Floral aromas with stone fruit and citrus flavors. Lively on the palate. 

• Pierre Paillard Les Parcelles Bouzy Grand Cru ($40). This is a tremendous value year after year. Lots of red berry flavors, a bit of minerality and a long finish. 

• Champagne Ayala Brut Rosé Majeur ($72). Owned by Bollinger, this boutique maison deserves discovery. This rosé is blended with some still red wine from the best crus of the Montagne de Reims. Very expressive aromas with raspberry notes and persistent finish. It is a blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier. 

• Champagne Boizel Brut Reserve ($50). A blend of all three Champagne grape varieties, this bubbly outperforms. Pear and peach notes with a hint of lime.  

• Moet & Chandon Rosé Imperial ($60). The pinot noir in this classic blend is pronounced with strawberry and raspberry notes.  Elegant and refreshing. 

Chile 

Chile has always struggled to gain notoriety in the premium cabernet sauvignon market. Many of the wines have been mediocre but a good bargain. Since 1999, Baron Philippe de Rothschild has lent his name and Bordeaux know-how to Escudo Rojo, a label we just recently discovered.  With his daughter at the helm, the producer has tapped into Maipo Valley’s terroir for expressive cabernets.  

We enjoyed the 2018 Escudo Rojo Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon ($18).  It has a generous and precision-focused bouquet of ripe dark fruit and blackberry, cherry flavors with a hint of coffee and significant tannins. 

The 2018 Gran Reserva ($22) is a more layered and complex blend of cabernet sauvignon, carmenere, syrah cabernet franc and petite verdot. 

Wine picks 

• Geodesy Eola Springs Vineyard Chardonnay 2018 ($75). This luxury chardonnay is the doing of winemaker Megan Baccitich and grower Scott Zapotoky who worked together at Paul Hobbs Wines. It is owned by Judy Jordan who sold J Vineyards to Gallo in 2015. The talented team has created a textured wine with juicy pear and citrus notes. 

• Alma Rosa El Jabali Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay ($48). Once this wine came to room temperature, it was teeming with pear and melon aromas. Citrus and apple flavors with a touch of spice and mineral. 

• Yao Family Wines Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($120). Yao Ming, one of the most well-known players in the NBA, launched his winery in 2011 after developing an appreciation for Napa Valley and wine in general. One of several region-designated cabernets, the producer draws from some of the best grape sources in the appellation. Packed with delicious dark fruit flavors and dosed with interesting nuances of spice and vanilla, there is a velvet texture underlying it all. Although there are many California celebrity wines that sell only by their names, this one sells by its quality too. 

• Morgan Metallico Un-Oaked Chardonnay 2019 ($22). Un-oaked chardonnay is a great match with poultry because the often-ladened oak flavors don’t overwhelm the entrée. No oak means lower prices, too, so this is a great value from the prized Santa Lucia Highlands. Ripe tropical fruit and pear flavors. 

• MacRostie Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2018 ($25). Whole-cluster grapes were gently pressed to create a lively tropical fruit component to this soft and easy chardonnay. 

Gifts don’t have to be just wine; sparkling wine recommendations

(November 23, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

We don’t think we’ve ever objected to a gift of wine. It’s not a garish tie or Christmas sweater that we’re embarrassed to wear.  It’s not a game we’ll never play or a basket of preserves that will be regifted at the first opportunity. Wine fits most everyone. 

However, not all gifts for the family oenophile have to be wine. So, we’ve assembled a few alternative ideas for you to consider as you head to the store (or computer) to shop. 

• Wine tasting kit. We really like the Master the World tasting kit that guides you through the evaluation process with unidentified samples of various wines. Whether you’re a pro or an amateur, the tasting kit challenges your senses in what can be a monthly subscription to six 187ml bottles of red and white wines selected by Master Sommeliers. You can play along with an online self-evaluation too. We tried it with friends and it was a lot of fun. The cost is $90 for each kit – less if you subscribe. See mtwwines.com. 

• Books. If your gift is going to someone who loves wine but yearns to learn more, “Wine Folly” by Madeline Puckette, is easy to digest. We also recommend “Windows on the World” by Keven Zraly which is now in its 35th edition. For those friends more knowledgeable about wine and less interested in education, we recommend “Cork Dork” by Bianca Bosker and “Adventures on the Wine Trail” by Kermit Lynch. Both of these are fun reads. 

• Wine Club.  We’re not into wine clubs in general because the choice of wines is often unimpressive and obscure. But we like the looks of Wine Access because the team that selects the wines are impressively credentialled and selective. The winemaking team sources grapes from well-known producers with the understanding that their names not be disclosed. They could be buying juice, grapes or the finished product and slapping a unique name on the label.  Cameron Hughes’ de Negoce operates similarly but labels its wine with a number. You could buy a case from these clubs as a gift and include an email alert for additional offers. Another option to consider is Scout & Cellar, which deals exclusively with natural wines. 

• Wine Squirrel Sealing Decanter ($70). If you use a decanter for older wines, there is always the dilemma of storing unfinished wine. We sometimes pour it back in the bottle, but some of it inevitably spills. The Wine Squirrel has a special sealing mechanism that allows you to store the wine in the same decanter and preserve it for weeks. 

• Beer selection.  If there is a beer fan in your family and friends, Tavour is worth a look. It puts together a holiday bundle of small-craft beers from more than 600 independent breweries. You can buy a bundle to be sent weekly during the holidays by using its app.  

• Admiral Rodney Princessa Rum ($50).  This St. Lucia rum is inspired by the HMS Princessa, a Spanish vessel captured by the British in the 1780. It contains Coffey still rum and is aged 5-9 years in bourbon and port casks before being blended. Honey raisin aromas and caramel, crème brulee flavors. 

• Champagne Billecart-Salmon Champagne Trio ($265). This holiday gift box consists of three cuvees that will deliver triple the pleasure. Boxed in an attractive package made from recycled cardboard, the bottles include Brut Rose, Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru and brut Sous-Bois. 

• Cockburn’s Special Reserve Port Portugal ($20). Known as a drier style of port, this version from Cockburn’s, purchased by the Symington family in 2010, represents a good value and is a great introduction to port for those seeking a reasonably priced experience. Aged for 5 years this reserve port features cherry and plum notes in a very mouth-filling experience.     

Holiday bubbles 

‘Tis the season for sparkling wine. If you want to start your celebration with bubbles, here are some suggestions from around the world: 

• Adami Bosco di Gica Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Brut ($20). Although it’s not hard to find prosecco under $15, a few more dollars give you a sparkling wine with more complexity. Made from glera grapes, this DOCG wine has a bit of sugar to round off the palate.  Adami also has an interesting single-vineyard prosecco – Vigneto Giardino – for $23. 

• Nyetimber Blanc de Blanc ($65).  You don’t think of England when it comes to sparkling wine, but it has been producing some excellent, luxurious cuvees in recent years. We loved this complex and elegant version. 

• Roederer Estate Multi-vintage Brut Rosé ($35). Generous apple and stone-fruit flavors with a dash of blood orange highlight this Anderson Valley sparkling wine. Blend of pinot noir and chardonnay. 

• Frank Family Vineyards Brut Rosé 2015 ($55). You can count on this producer to deliver luxury in a bottle. Using pinot noir (90 percent) and chardonnay grapes from Carneros, Frank has crafted a hedonistic sparkling wine with a beautiful pink coral color and bright strawberry and red cherry flavors. The wine rested on spent yeast cells for four years before disgorgement in January. 

• Codorniu Classico Brut ($15).  Simple yet refreshing, this Spanish cava has fresh acidity and unique flavors from the blend of macabeo, xarel-lo and parellada grapes. 

• Diora La Belle Fete Rosé of Pinot Noir ($26). This spirited rosé is one of several made by this Monterey County producer.  Grenache and chenin blanc are added to the pinot noir to give it fresh, layered red fruit flavors.  

• Enrico Serafino Alta Langa Oudeis Brut 2016 ($28). From the Roero region of the Piedmont, Serafino is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It has operated on this site for more than 140 years. Toast to its illustrious history with a glass of this blend of pinot noir and chardonnay. Aged more than 3 years in the bottle on its lees. 

• Priest Ranch Brut Rosé 2016 ($50). This is a fun sparkling wine made entire from syrah grapes.  Aged 24 months in stainless steel on the lees and another 24 months in the bottle, it has bright cherry and strawberry notes with a smooth finish. 

Pairing wine with turkey is easy as apple pie

(November 16, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

We cannot remember a time when a Thanksgiving has been haunted by a double dose of unimaginable challenges. A raging virus coupled with divisive politics threatens to spoil many gatherings unless we take a collective breath and remember what the holiday is about: family, gratitude and harmony.  

Many families have chosen not to travel for fear of contracting the worsening virus and that alone sets a somber tone to the otherwise joyous holiday. The absence of live gatherings will leave stranded family exchanging virtual greetings, a distant alternative to sharing hugs and laughs around a table.  These are indeed strange times. 

Whether you are still able to gather with friends and families or celebrating alone, you shouldn’t let these mentally exhausting times spoil the traditions you have religiously preserved over the years. Keeping them brings a bit of normalcy and stability to our lives. Plunge headlong into a Thanksgiving feast – and don’t forget the wine.  

The classic holiday dinner of turkey makes the choice as easy as apple pie. Because turkey is a relatively neutral meat, you won’t go wrong with light red wine or almost any white or rosé. And, best of all, you don’t need to spend a lot of money. 

We like to start our family feasts with champagne or sparkling wine because there’s something about the bubbles that strikes a celebratory tone. It’s a versatile drink to share with appetizers as guests absorb the aromas wafting from the kitchen or when the chef can finally relax. There are inexpensive champagnes from Pommery, Nicolas-Feuillatte, Moet Chandon, Pierre Peters and other French producers. If you would rather honor U.S. producers on this American holiday, consider Argyle, Domaine Carneros, Roederer Estate and Schramsberg. 

For the feast, we like to put both red and white wine on the table to satisfy everyone’s preferences.  Although the classic side dishes – gravy, cranberry sauce, potatoes and dressing -- can take the choice in different directions, just concentrate on the entrée. If you prefer to serve ham, you should consider a light red or a white with some acidity to offset the salt flavors. Lamb and beef call for serious cabernet sauvignons. 

We like chardonnay and pinot noir for the turkey dinner, but we also have enjoyed riesling, beaujolais, sauvignon blanc and even syrah. The apple and tropical fruit flavors of chardonnay, especially those which are unoaked, complement turkey and texturally is a good match to gravy. Pinot noir is simply a versatile wine that won’t overwhelm a simple dish.  

For chardonnay, consider Ramey, Ram’s Gate, Morgan, MacRostie and the reasonably priced Chateau Ste Michelle from Washington. 

As for pinot noirs, we like the inexpensive Hahn, Landmark, La Crema and Olema. 

One outlier to consider is an off-dry riesling, such as Chateau Ste Michelle’s Eroica, that can match cranberry sauce as well as turkey.  

Perhaps the most versatile wine to serve both before and during the meal is rosé. There are plenty of versions – several from southern France – that cost less than $20.  The acidity and fruit are good foils to most simple foods. We like Whispering Angel, Miraval and Domaine Ott “By Ott.” 

Please look at the bright side, count your blessings and drink responsibly.  

Sauvignon blanc 

It doesn’t have to be summer to enjoy sauvignon blanc. The grapefruit, citrus character of this grape variety make it a refreshing aperitif and it complements fish with citrus sauces, chicken and even pasta. Here are a few we recently enjoyed: 

• Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc Alexander Valley 2018 ($15-20). This is a lovely quaffable sauvignon blanc from a long-time quality producer. Peach and apple notes dominate with a background of herbal notes.                                                                                   

• Flora Springs Estate Sauvignon Blanc Napa Valley 2018 ($30). Fig, melon and a nice floral component adds interest. Crisp at first sip, this sauvignon blanc ends with a smooth creamy finish. 

• Gamble Family Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($28). This delicious and fresh sauvignon blanc benefits from the musque clone that broadens the flavor profile with softly textured, tropical fruit notes. Grapefruit and citrus notes provide the more classic flavors. One of our perennial favorites for sauvignon blanc. 

• Ritual Sauvignon Blanc 2018 ($20). There are layers of fruit flavors in this Chilean wine because the producer combines cement eggs, oak barrels and stainless steel for fermentation. We loved the wine’s floral notes and lush stone fruit flavors. 

Wine picks 

• Stags’ Leap Winery Block 20 Merlot 2017 ($70). Using the best grapes from one block, Stag’s Leap has a colossal merlot with plum and clove aromas. The full-bodied palate is of rich and silky raspberry and cherry flavors with hints of cocoa and spice. 

• Los Moradas de San Martin Senda 2017 ($13). We can’t remember the last time we fell in love with a wine so much that we ordered a case online. Unable to find it in local stores, we had to pay shipping fees, which raised the price to $15 a bottle – but it’s still a great bargain. From the Madrid side of the Gredos range of hills in Spain, this producer is focused on old vine garnacha. The depth, texture and tannins in this wine suggested a cost of $40 or more. Generous aromas with plum and black cherry flavors, a bit of minerality and vanilla. We also tasted the producer’s 2013 Initio garnacha and it too was showing beautifully.  

• Four Vines The Kinker Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($18).  Petite sirah and grenache is added to this Paso Robles cabernet sauvignon to give it more color and broader flavors. Ripe dark fruit aromas with fruit-forward flavors of currants, plum, cassis. 

• De Vinosalvo “Auspicium” Montecucco Rosso 2016 ($25). From Tuscany, this sangiovese/syrah blend has rich and ripe cherry and cassis flavors. 

Good deals from Bordeaux; the pinot noirs of Landmark

(November 9, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

If you’re a casual wine drinker who enjoys a glass of Ménage à Trois with your pizza, you’re not likely to consider buying a first-growth Bordeaux. One bottle of, say, Chateau Lafite Rothschild will set you back $550, which is equal to several cases of cheap wine.  

Domaines Barons de Rothschild realized that decades ago and launched a new collection of wines under the Légende label. Not only are the wines moderately priced, but they are focused on casual wine drinkers who are neither able to Grand Vins Bordeaux nor willing to wait decades for it to fully mature.  

We recently joined Diane Flamand, who has been Légende’s winemaker for 16 years, in a virtual tasting of these five interesting wines.  Each of the wines is named after regional appellations: Bordeaux Blanc, Bordeaux Rouge, Medoc, Saint-Emilion, and Paulliac.  

“We saw that Bordeaux with its 56 appellations and different classifications can be confusing,” she said. “The idea (with Légende) was to make Bordeaux easy to understand and with all the qualities. Great balance, freshness, good drinkability, easy to appreciate.” 

Global warming has helped Bordeaux wines in general, often allowing for red grapes to fully ripen naturally lessening the need for chapitalization  or adding sugar to fermenting grape must. Chapitalization was more commonly used in the past to achieve higher alcohol levels. Riper grapes create riper, fruitier more complex wines, more akin to many Americans taste preference for California red wines, which almost always achieve natural ripeness. 

For those who want to experience Bordeaux without the pain of lofty prices, this is a good introduction to each of the major appellations. 

• Légende Bordeaux Blanc 2019 ($19). Drawing grapes from the immense Entre-Deaux-Mers, Flamand adds 15 percent semillon to sauvignon blanc. Although she has used less, she said she plans to stick with the dose of Semillon because it rounds off the acidic nature of the crisp sauvignon blanc. Grapefruit, tropical fruit and citrus dominate this fresh and bright white blend. 

• Légende Bordeaux Rouge 2017 ($19). This blend of cabernet sauvignon (60 percent) and merlot from Entre-Deux-Mers sports raspberry and black currant aromas, juicy blackberry flavors, a hint of coffee and ripe tannins. Late season frost destroyed much of the vintage, but this wine is balanced and simple. Serve it with pasta, pizza, burgers and the like. 

• Légende Saint-Emilion 2016 ($40).  Known for its merlot, Saint-Emilion produces approachable wines in their youth and this is no exception. It was our favorite. A little cabernet franc is added to provide some elegance. Juicy and fresh cherry fruit character with earth and truffle aromas. 

• Légende Medoc 2016 ($26).  From the Left Bank of the Gironde River, Medoc is famous for its complex red wines. There is more tannin and structure in this wine than the others. Expressive pepper and spice nose with ripe cherry and strawberry flavors. It is a blend of 65 percent cabernet sauvignon and 35 percent merlot.   

• Légende Paulliac 2016 ($55). Domaines Barons de Rothschild puts its best effort in this full-body wine by using some grapes from its two Paulliac estates and aging 40 percent of it in Lafite barrels for 12 months. Although it can improve with further aging, it’s still approachable now. Complex aromas of spice, tobacco and mint with black fruit flavors and a long finish. Cabernet sauvignon (60 percent) is blended with merlot.  

Landmark’s bargain pinot  

It’s becoming impossible to find a decent pinot noir under $50. Oregon and California producers are making pinot noirs that rival the cost of premier crus in Burgundy.  

Greg Stach, long-time winemaker at Landmark Vineyards, thinks his hand-crafted Landmark Vineyards Hop Kiln Estate pinot noir could sell for $50 a bottle, he’s happy to get it into the hands of more consumers at $40. He admits that is still a lot of money for some people, but these wines are a relative bargain. 

During a virtual tasting of a three-year flight of these pinot noirs, Stach waxed praise on the Hop Kiln project. The historic Russian River Valley property once used to dry beer hops has been restored as a tasting facility.  Stach says they were looking for “a landmark for Landmark” and he couldn’t be more delighted to tap into its soil. 

Landmark sources grapes – mostly chardonnay and pinot noir – from Sonoma, Monterey and Santa Barbara counties. But it has been making pinot noir from the Hop Kiln Estate, planted in the late 1800s, for only three vintages. 

Several plots around the kilns and along the Russian River have been planted to 93 acres of vineyards. Located in what is called the “middle reach” of the valley, seasonal temperatures here swing from 50 to 90-plus degrees – ideal conditions for pinot noir. 

Stach says he wants his pinot noir to be pretty and a “window into Burgundy.” He finds cola flavors to be common in all the pinot noirs made from this part of the valley. 

We know Landmark more for its stellar chardonnays, but the Hop Kiln pinot noirs are pretty impressive.  

The brand was purchased in 2011 by Stewart and Lynda Resnick, owners of Fiji Water, Pom Wonderful and also Justin Winery and Vineyards. They added Hop Kiln Estate in 2016. 

The 2016 and 2017 pinot noirs reflected the vagaries of the vintages. Stach believes these wines can be cellared for decades, although they are hard to resist in their present development.  The current vintage – the 2018 Hop Kiln Estate pinot noir ($40) – is well-balanced with classic Russian River Valley character, fresh raspberry and cherry cola flavors and floral aromas. 

Wine picks 

• Enrico Serafino Gavi di Gavi “Grifo del Quartaro” 2018 ($17). We loved this delicious Piedmonte wine made entirely from cortese grapes. Surprising complexity with apple and pear notes, good acidity and lingering finish.  

• Alma Rosa El Jabali Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay ($48). Once this wine came to room temperature, it was teeming with pear and melon aromas. Citrus and apple flavors with a touch of spice and mineral. 

• Domaine Gayda Flying Solo Grenache Syrah 2018 ($16). From the massive Languedoc-Roussillon region of France, this gem is light enough to enjoy by itself or alongside pizza, burgers and pasta. No tannins, just a lot of fresh fruit character. The name is a tribute to the flyers who flew from Toulouse using the region’s Tree of Moscu as a key reference. 

Give merlot another chance

(November 2, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

We can’t read a critique of merlot without a reference to “Sideways,” a 2004 movie that portrayed merlot as a lowly wine and thus put the nail in a coffin of a grape variety that was already sliding downhill. Watching Miles dump a spit bucket over his head was good for laughs, but isn’t it time we give the merlot joke a rest? 

In fact, there is a lot of good merlot being made today on the West Coast.  Although there is still the occasional merlot that is too vegetal and green – the result of stem contact -- the bulk of the merlot we tasted in the last few weeks is ample reason to renew respect for this maligned grape variety. 

Next to cabernet sauvignon, merlot is the second most planted grape variety in the world. It is one of several noble grapes that go into the best Bordeaux. Petrus, one of the most expensive wines in the world, is made entirely with merlot.  

Merlot has a wide array of flavors, depending on where and how it is grown. Blackberries, raspberries, plums and black cherries are common flavors. The tannins are usually soft, which makes the wine more approachable than many premium cabernet sauvignons. 

Alas, the best merlots we tasted were expensive. These wines are full-bodied and easy to confuse with cabernet sauvignon. 

Here are the top 10 we recently tasted: 

• St. Supery Merlot Estate Rutherford Napa Valley 2015 ($50). This wine exhibits wonderful intense plum, cherry, and cedar notes in a delicious package that shouldn’t be missed.   It was one of the most accessible and enjoyable merlots in the tasting. 

• Stags’ Leap Winery Block 20 Merlot 2017 ($70). Using the best grapes from one block, Stags’ Leap has a colossal merlot with plum and clove aromas. The full-bodied palate is of rich and silky raspberry and cherry flavors with hints of cocoa and spice. 

• Duckhorn Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot 2017 ($56).  It’s impossible not to reach for another glass of this approachable, softly textured merlot. Blended with 16 percent cabernet sauvignon and a little cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec, it has broad and ripe dark fruit flavors with tantalizing hints of licorice and chocolate. 

• Vanderbilt Reserve Dry Creek Valley Merlot 2917 ($35). Blackberry and vanilla aromas lead into a ripe palate of raspberries and blueberries. Firm tannins, full body make it a wine to pair with beef. 

• Sullivan James O’Neil Napa Valley Merlot 2015 ($250). At this price, we understand why you may not want a case. But we list it because the wine shows what magic can be done with this grape variety. It is unquestionably the most powerful merlot in our tasting. Immense tannins, dense flavors and great complexity.  Plum aromas and rich dark cherry flavors with lingering hints of cocoa powder and leather. 

• Peju Napa Valley Merlot 2016 ($48). This merlot combines elegance with power to make a delicious, rich wine that can age for five years or more. Very aromatic with pomegranate and cranberry notes and soft dark berry flavors with a hint of vanilla. 

• La Jota Vineyards Napa Valley Merlot 2017 ($85).  Drawing grapes from two vineyards on Howell Mountain, this showy merlot is a good example of a winemaker’s deft hands. Dense and rich black cherry notes, floral nose, and hints of dried herbs, coffee and mineral. Long finish. 

• Hickinbotham The Revivalist McLaren Vale Merlot 2017 ($70). You don’t think of Australia for its merlots, but this dynamite version from Hickinbotham scores points with its generous plum and strawberry flavors and balanced acidity. There’s a nice mineral and earthy character to it. 

• Mt. Brave Mt. Veeder Merlot 2018 ($80). Nearly 1,800 up Mt. Veeder, the Mt. Brave winery draws from a great source of grapes for this serious and complex merlot with plum and dark red cherry fruit and hints of vanilla and spice. Firm tannins make it a keeper too. 

• Decoy Sonoma County Merlot 2018 ($25). A good value in a sea of expensive merlots, the Decoy has beautiful black cherry and blueberry flavors with hints of chocolate and mineral. 

Wine picks 

• Los Moradas de San Martin Senda 2017 ($13). We can’t remember the last time we fell in love with a wine so much that we ordered a case online. Unable to find it in local stores, we had to pay shipping fees, which raised the price to $15 a bottle – but it’s still a great bargain. From the Madrid side of the Gredos range of hills in Spain, this producer is focused on old vine garnacha. The depth, texture and tannins in this wine suggested a cost of $40 or more. Generous aromas with plum and black cherry flavors, a bit of minerality and vanilla. We also tasted the producer’s 2013 Initio garnacha and it was showing beautifully.  

• Four Vines The Kinker Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($18).  Petite sirah and grenache is added to this Paso Robles cabernet sauvignon to give it more color and broader flavors. Ripe dark fruit aromas with fruit-forward flavors of currants, plum, cassis. 

• Black Stallion Limited Release Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($60). Using grapes from higher elevations on Diamond Mountain and Atlas Peak, winemaker Ralf Holdenried has crafted an accessible cabernet sauvignon with blackberry aromas and jammy dark berry fruit.  

• Gary Farrell Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2018 ($35). You get a lot of good chardonnay for the money with this delicious and balanced wine. Drawing grapes from several vineyards, the chardonnay has melon and grapefruit flavors and crisp citrus and stone fruit flavors. 

Jesse Katz pictures himself in wine — good wine

(October 26, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Behind every winemaker is a good story and it doesn’t get any better than that of Jesse Katz. At age 9 he joined his father – an accomplished photographer – on assignment around the world.  One would think he eventually would pursue photography. But the photos of California wine country convinced him otherwise. He pursued wine. 

“Dad barely knew the difference between white and red zinfandel,” Katz said of his father Andy. “But I fell in love with the cultures and met some influential people, including Robert Mondavi.” 

When it came time to go to college, Katz first pursued business and then caved to his desire to make wine. Soon after getting a degree in viticulture and oenology at Fresno State, he was honing his understanding of terroir at Petrus and Haut Brion and developing an appreciation of malbec at Bodega Noemia in Argentina. 

About the time he felt he knew enough to make premium wine, you would think he would plant roots in prestigious Napa Valley. But he chose Sonoma County instead. 

“I wanted to showcase an area,” he said. “It’s hard to do that in Napa because of the barrier of entry for new winemakers. That’s one of the faults of Napa – it’s pushing out young winemakers because of the price points. There is a level of discovery in finding new areas in Sonoma County.” 

He found choice vineyards in eastern Alexander Valley where nighttime temperatures are cooler than those of Napa Valley. The more temperate, coastal-influenced climate here lengthens the growing season by two weeks and gives him the “balance and elegance” he wants from cabernet sauvignon. 

He founded Aperture – a fitting tribute to his photographer father – in 2009 and before he was 30 he was labeled an impressive young winemaker by Forbes.  He’s not a maverick any more, but at a still young 36 he is an accomplished winemaker whose wines are turning heads.  There’s a two-year wait to get some of Aperture’s most exclusive wines. 

We recently joined Katz for a virtual tasting and was impressed by the unique character of his wine. By commanding control of leased vineyards, Katz is able to apply the viticultural education he got from his time at Cheval Blanc to extract the expression he seeks from the soil – a commitment so important that his front label indicates if the grapes come from a specific soil type. We don’t know anyone else who does that 

“The human touch can only go so far, but place has so much to do with the wine,” he said.  

True to his training, he brings respect to malbec, a grape all but abandoned in Bordeaux and often abused in Argentina.  

“It’s the most difficult variety to farm,” he said. “You can have a wine that will give green and jammy flavors all at once.” 

Canopy management and thinning the fruit allows him to avoid the traps other winemakers walk into with malbec. 

The 2017 Aperture Bordeaux Red Blend ($55) is an almost even blend of cabernet sauvignon and malbec. The vineyard blocks he uses are clay soil type, which Katz believes lengthens the growing season to achieve full phenolic ripeness.  It is a very concentrated blend with floral aromas, fresh red berry fruit and a spicy finish. Like all of his red wines, the blend avoids the over-extraction that plagues many California wines and instead strikes a silky elegance. 

Equally refined is the 2017 Aperture Cabernet Sauvignon ($70), which includes some malbec and merlot. Full-bodied, it shows off ripe blueberry and blackberry fruit and finishes with some nice minerality and a hint of dark chocolate.  The soil here is volcanic and the steep hillsides stress the vines to make the grapes smaller and more intense. 

Katz admitted his cabernet sauvignon has a “green element,” a term sometimes used derisively to describe a number of under-ripe wines from California and even Bordeaux. But in Aperture’s wines the greenness gives the wine vibrancy and freshness. 

“It’s a natural element in all great cabernets. Most winemakers freak out at greenness, but it fades. Fresh style balances it out,” he said. 

We also loved the 2019 Aperture Sauvignon Blanc ($40) made from grapes from the Dry Stack Vineyard in Bennett Valley.  Katz blends 2 percent of semillon into the wine in true Bordeaux style and ages it in oak for six months.  It is an expressive, aromatic sauvignon blanc with mouth-watering flavors of melon, apricot, spice and tropical fruit.  This is not your grassy New Zealand sauvignon blanc. 

Semillon does wonders to sauvignon blanc, but Katz admitted it is hard to find in California. He’s planting his own with a clone from Chateau d’Yquem – favorite of the estate’s viticulturalist. We can’t wait to taste the results. 

Normally, his annual production is between 10,000 and 12,000 cases, but this year’s fire is expected to reduce the 2020 production to 5,000 cases. Most of Aperture is sold through its website and some of the single-vineyard wines have a waiting list.  

Katz cherishes his business partnership with his father, whose photos grace every label and who likes to be involved in the blending.  But despite the relationship, the images aren’t free. When we asked how much the photos cost the winemaker, Katz said “pallets” of wine. 

We suspect the elder Katz now knows the difference between red and white zinfandel. 

Merlot month 

October is merlot month and we’ve spending a lot of time tasting this often-maligned grape variety.  We’ll have a more thorough report in a couple of weeks, but for now here are a couple of merlots to honor the occasion: 

• Barnett Vineyards Napa Valley Estate Merlot 2018 ($70). Hal Barnett and crew battled fires surrounding their property on Spring Mountain, but appears to have survived significant damage. What a relief because it would be a shame if Barnett didn’t produce this estate-bottled merlot in 2020. The 2018 has ripe black cherry notes with distinctive hints of eucalyptus and chocolate.  Soft texture and long finish. 

• St. Supery Rutherford Estate Merlot 2015 ($50). St. Supery scores again with one of its underrated grape varieties.  With just some cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc in the blend, the wine shows off the bountiful merlot fruit: ripe blackberry, plum and raspberry notes mingle with subtle chocolate, espresso and graphite.  Luxurious mouthfeel. 

• Flora Springs Merlot Napa Valley 2017 ($35). Big pure black cherry elements with a beautiful chocolate finish creates a big complex and satisfying wine. Made entirely of merlot and aged in French oak.    

Wines to start the fall; Bertrand’s great wines

(October 19, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

As we write these words the thick green foliage of the Mid-Atlantic’s deciduous trees still clings to their hosts. But we know that in the next several weeks these same leaves will change in color to vibrant reds, yellows, orange, and browns and drift earthward to continue the cycle of life.  

Like these trees our yearning for wine changes as the weather cools and our activities shift indoors. The thirst for crisp, white wines and rosés paired with simple summer foods morphs into a craving for more complex red wines and heartier, slow-cooked meals.  

We live in an area that is blessed with ample availability of a wide selection of wines from all over the world and pretty much any price range. In anticipation of this demand for wine we will make some suggestions for the upcoming fall and early winter seasons. 

Don’t abandon rosé completely -- just look for rosés, like those from Tavel, that offer a substantial counter point to more ample meals.  In fact, Tavel rosé is one of our favorite wines for the crazy panoply of foods that grace our Thanksgiving tables.  

Recently, we have recommended Chateau de Segries Tavel Rosé 2019 ($20-25). However, current vintage offerings from Guigal, Domaine Ott, Domaine Tempier, Chateau Minuty and Chateau D’Aqueria will also work nicely and are similarly priced. 

One of our first considerations as we feel the first wisps of cool mornings is red Bordeaux wines. Bordeaux produces just shy of a billion bottles a year from mostly merlot grapes followed by cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc.  

Prices of first growth grand cru classe wines, such as Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, seem to lead news coverage. But, Bordeaux grand cru classe wines only represent about 3 percent of total Bordeaux volume.  Most grand cru classe wines cost north of $75 per bottle with many fetching hundreds of dollars per bottle. However, most of Bordeaux’ wine production is sold worldwide for under $15 per bottle. Look for red Bordeaux wines labeled Bordeaux or Bordeaux Superior or other of the more than 60 appellations.  

Since there are literally thousands of Bordeaux chateaus bottling wine, seek out a knowledgeable wine salesman to determine local availability of these value-oriented wines. Two of our favorites are: Chateau Bellevue Castillon Cotes du Bordeaux 2015 ($16), and Chateau La Mothe Du Barry Bordeaux Superior 2018 ($11). The wines bottled under the Légende label are also reasonably priced. 

Colder weather and winter foods are also a good match for zinfandel. The ripe, fruity nature and high alcohol make this American grape variety a good match to everything from pizza to hearty stews.  We like zinfandels from Ridge, Ravenswood, Quivera, Cline and Frank.  

We like to have sparkling wines on hand in the fall and winter to welcome guests.  Sparkling wines don’t have to be expensive, with many Italian proseccos and Spanish cavas available from $10-$15 per bottle. Extra dry proseccos tend to be a bit sweeter than cava.  

Some good value options for prosecco are Cortefresca, Laluca, and Rufino, all of which should cost under $15. Spanish Cava also offer a superb value. Brands such as Segura Viudas Cava Brut ($10-15), Conde de Subirats Cava Brut ($12-15) and Codorniu Cuvee Classico Cava Brut ($10-12), are all good. 

The wines of Gerard Bertrand 

Gerard Bertrand is eager to spread the word about Languedoc-Roussillon that despite being the largest wine producing region in the world is often the most forgotten.  He recently launched an international campaign, “The Ultimate French Wine Experience,” to market his wines in the 171 countries his company serves. 

Only until recently have producers such as Bertrand raised the bar for quality so that it can compete with more notable appellations in France. Before then this region that borders Spain was known more in terms of quantity than quality. 

Bertrand’s enthusiasm and experience are steeped in history. He started his education alongside his father in 1975 in the vineyards of the Villenmajou Estate in Corbieres.  When his father died in an accident in 1987, he assumed management of the estate. His father emphasized an attention to detail, a lesson he has adopted in practicing biodynamic farming. 

It was a farming practice he said changed his life. “Biodynamic farming is holistic medicine on a plant.” 

Bertrand is using the same classic grape varieties, but each property gives the wine its own range of terroir-inspired flavors. His 2017 Clos D’Ora -- a blend of syrah, grenache, mourvedre and carignan – is a world-class wine with great complexity but at $250 a bottle, not everyone can afford it.  

He chose not to increase his prices despite the higher tariffs. Here are a few of his more affordable wines:   

• Gerard Bertrand Cigalus Rouge 2018 ($50).   Exceptionally concentrated, this is a wild blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, caladoc, cabernet franc, grenache and carignan. It has black cherry aromas and ripe blackberry and plum flavors. Hints of toasted oak and spice with fine tannins and long finish. 

• Gerard Bertrand La Forge 2016 ($75).  This rich and hedonistic blockbuster is made mostly from carignan grapes grown on century-old vines. Bold and broad in structure, it sports strawberry and clove aromas with black fruit and spice flavors.  

• Chateau l’Hospitalet La Clape Blanc 2018 ($45). Bertrand said this estate and its four-star hotel “changed my life” when he bought it in 2002. This blend is an exotic and refreshing combination of bourboulenc, roussanne, vermentino and viognier. Apricot and peach flavors dominate the palate. With surprising depth, it has citrus and almond aromas.  

• Chateau l’Hospitalet Grand Vin Rouge 2017 ($45). A blend of syrah, grenache and mourvedre, this dense wine has effusive cassis and plum aromas followed by ripe cherry and raspberry flavors. Hints of licorice and a bit of garrigue give it great dimension.  Accessible now if paired with meat, but can easily stand a decade or more of cellaring. 

Wine picks 

• Peju Province Winery Petit Trois Napa Valley Cabernet Franc 2013 ($75). Dark in color and drenched in complexity, this amazing wine shows what cabernet franc can produce in the right hands. Layered cherry, blueberry and raspberry flavors dominate this textured wine with a long finish. Hints of vanilla and licorice it is a wine that can be enjoyed now but shows tannins to give it longevity. 

• Bonterra Organic Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($14). Bonterra has been a pioneer in the organic movement and this well-honed, bright sauvignon blanc comes with experience.  Melon, lime and grass notes dominate this spritely, refreshing wine. 

The women of Bacigalupi Vineyards

(October 12, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

For decades Charles and Helen Bacigalupi Vineyards sold their prized pinot noir and chardonnay grapes -- among the first to be planted in this northern end of the Russian River Valley -- to producers such as Chateau Montelena.  Then, about 10 years ago the Bacigalupis decided to make their own wine when a contract expired. 

My, how far they have come since the days when Charles, advised by a friend to try better grapes, had to write down “pinot noir” and “chardonnay” because they were foreign varieties to a farmer who grew apples, cherries and just a little french colombard on the side.  Today, Bacigalupi puts its farming name on a scant 2,000 cases of premium wine every year while the rest of the grapes are sold to other producers, such as Chateau Potelle and Gary Farrell. 

Bacigalupi achieved something special in 1973 when winemaking legend Mike Grgich came looking for chardonnay for Chateau Montelena.  Helen Bacigalupi delivered the grapes in her burnt-red Volkswagen truck over the hills to Calistoga. The grapes from that vintage represented 40 percent of the famous Chateau Montelena chardonnay that beat French burgundies in the 1976 Judgement of Paris Tasting. Hardly anyone noticed to this day that Sonoma Valley chardonnay went into this heralded wine. 

When the lease expired on this famous 2 ½-acre plot, Bacigalupi made a special chardonnay dedicated to the family matriarch. Just introduced, the 2018 Bacigalupi Vineyard Renouveau, meaning revival or renewal, is as immense in body as Helen Bacigalupi is in life. 

Now 94 and still enjoying a couple of glasses of wine a day, Helen may have been the first woman in the family to strap on boots and help manage a struggling vineyard, but she is hardly the only woman there. Today, her daughter-in-law Pam and granddaughters Nicole and Katey carry on not only a family legacy but a legacy built on a can-do spirit that defies gender bias. 

During a recent virtual program, the women waxed praise on their grandmother and cited her “words of wisdom” -- “walk your own path” and “go with your gut” -- from which the offspring have gained their confidence.  It was that confidence Helen and her late husband had when they first tilled the soil just north of Healdsburg on a site others saw as inhospitable to crops. Fortuitously, though, the soil turned out great for pinot noir and chardonnay despite wide swings in temperature that range from more than 100 degrees in the day to 45-55 degrees at night. 

The chardonnay is still growing on the original vines planted in 1956 from bud wood it got from Karl Wente. Because of their age, many vines have slowly died and the others often perform unpredictably.  But it’s that serendipity that consulting winemaker Ashley Herzberg credits for Bacigalupi’s unique chardonnays.  

“These are not cookie-cutter wines,” she said. “Each vine behaves differently.” 

The job of nurturing old vines from the three vineyards falls to Helen’s son and vineyard manager John Bacigalupi. Herzberg said John is skilled at “pivoting to whatever the vineyards are giving us each year.” 

The vines perform well enough that Herzberg doesn’t interfere with the natural winemaking process. She called herself just a “glorified babysitter” of the grapes.  The wines aren’t fined or filtered. Only indigenous yeasts are used and she doesn’t even rack the grapes from the lees. 

“Our wines are a true representation of what each vineyard gives us,” she said. 

Herzberg joined the granddaughters in paying tribute to pioneering Helen Bacigalupi. “Having female figures to look to who were so strong and capable is remarkable. We still have challenges just being female, like driving a truck. But it’s easier for us because of what Helen has done.” 

Here’s to Helen and here’s to the tasty Bacigalupi wines we liked: 

• Bacigalupi Vineyards Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2018 ($62). Using cuttings from the original Paris Block on Goddard Ranch, the chardonnay bears a rich character with melon and citrus flavors, peach aromas and a hint of almonds. 

• Bacigalupi Vineyards “Renouveau” Russian River Valley Chardonnay 2018 ($82). Entirely from the Paris Tasting Block of chardonnay grapes, this wine is generous of stone fruit and honeysuckle aromas, lushly textured and loaded with layered white peach and pear flavors. Oak fermentation provides secondary flavors of coconut and toast. It is a huge contrast to the understated previous wine. 

• Bacigalupi Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2018 ($69). Limited punch-down and limit skin exposure creates a lightly color pinot noir that is void of tannins but loaded with honest pinot noir flavor. Bright raspberry and cherry notes with a lingering finish. Very exquisite. 

• Bacigalupi Vineyards Frost Ranch Pinot Noir 2018 ($76). Wow, what a delicious pinot noir and quite different from the blend. We like the earthy and mushroom influences. Classic floral nose with ripe plum and black cherry flavors. Good acidity. This pinot noir is a full body and bold. 

Wine picks 

• The Federalist Chardonnay Mendocino County 2018 ($23). This is a classic big styled ripe fruit chardonnay with oak enough for those seeking ample wood notes in their wine. Ripe apple with apple pie spice dominate this mouth filling, opulent California chardonnay experience.       

• Radio Boka Rosé VDT Castilla 2019 ($10-12). Made from mostly tempranillo (80 percent) with a dash of bobal, this Spanish wine is an outstanding value. Not overly complicated, but an interesting fruit forward rosé with cherry, strawberry and citrus notes. Great value! We also loved its sister wine the Radio Boka Tempranillo 2019 ($10-12) medium bodied with its cherry and strawberry inflected nose and flavors. Just a wee touch of oak completes the package.                 

Exploring the wines of northern Rhone; Bodegas Caro

(October 5, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Last week we wrote about the wines of the northern Rhone Valley. Today, we write about the very different wines of the southern Rhone. 

While the northern Rhone consists of dramatic steep hillsides, the southern Rhone is characterized by rolling hills. It features a distinctively milder climate than the northern Rhone with less rainfall as well.  

Syrah is the only grape planted in northern Rhone, but more than 10 grape varieties can be grown to make AOC-labeled wine in the southern Rhone. 

The majority of the red wine produced in the south is labeled Cotes du Rhone – a bargain at $10 to $25 a bottle -- and is dominated by the grenache grape with syrah, mourvedre, carignan and cinsault often added.  

The superstar of the southern Rhone is Chateauneuf-du-Pape, where both red and white wines are produced from up to 18 grape varieties. The prices of the best versions can exceed $100 per bottle.  

Across the Rhone River from Chateauneuf-du-Pape lies Tavel, an AOC whose one and only claim in the wine world is to produce rosé wine exclusively. Grenache and cinsault are the main characters in Tavel rosé although a panoply of other common red and white Rhone varietals can contribute to the blend.  

You’ll generally pay $25 or more for Tavel rosés, but in turn get a complex and bold drinking experience. Tavel is one of the few rosés that can benefit from aging. 

Gigondas Vacqueyras, Rasteau and Lirac are four other AOCs mostly producing red wine that command prices above those of Cotes du Rhone and offer greater complexity for those seeking bigger wines.  

Grenache is dominant in Gigondas and Vacqueyras and with syrah playing a supporting role and adding power to the blends. 

Our tasting began with the Chateau de Segries Tavel Rosé 2019 ($20-25). True to form, this Tavel rosé presented a fairly dark strawberry color -- atypical today and setting it apart from the widely available pale Provence rosé selections. It is a very balanced wine with fruit and acid in harmony and offering notes of strawberry with a hint of spice, and more tannins than most rosés. A pretty substantial wine, this would pair well with many grilled foods. 

Cotes du Rhone is the dominant AOC in the southern Rhone, and we tasted an example that proved an exception to the common mix of grape varieties. Oddly, the Chateau St. Cosme Cotes du Rhone Rouge 2018 ($16-20) is 100 percent syrah in an AOC field where grenache is usually the dominant grape. The result is an intense Cotes du Rhone presenting black cherry fruit notes and a distinctive black pepper accent. 

We next tasted a Famille Perrin Cotes du Rhone Villages Rouge 2017 ($14-17). Cotes du Rhone Villages is an appellation of Cotes du Rhone and includes superior vineyards surrounding 22 villages. The wines must have at least 50 percent grenache and 20 percent syrah in the blend.  

In general, the red wines from Cotes du Rhone Villages should provide more complexity than the standard Cotes du Rhone and for not much more money if any at all.  This wine displayed delicious berry notes along with a classic black pepper element that created a very nice, drinkable table wine. 

Our favorite of the southern Rhone tasting was the Arnoux et Fils Clocher Vacqueyras Rouge 2017 ($25). True to Vacqueyras’ reputation, this example from a blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre had pleasant plum, berry and cherry elements with ample tannins. A long finish with black pepper notes.  

The royalty of the southern Rhone outing was the Brotte Les Hauts De Barville Chateauneuf-du Pape 2017 ($37-40). A relative bargain in the world of Chateauneuf-du-Papes, this example illustrated the classic experience of this regal wine. The up-to-19 varieties allowed in this AOC tend to create an experience of savoring a compote of very ripe summer fruits. Although Brotte only uses grenache, syrah and mourvedre, this elegantly smooth wine is true to profile with raspberry and cherry fruit notes dominating. Drinking beautifully now or for the next several years.   

Bodegas Caro 

Fans of Argentine malbecs would be wise to explore the wines of Bodegas Caro, a partnership between the historic properties of Catena of Argentina and Domaines Barons de Rothschild of France. Producing wines since the 2003 vintage, the partnership combines two talented wine companies to bring malbec – a staple of Argentina – and cabernet sauvignon – a staple of Bordeaux – harmoniously together. 

We recently joined Philippe Rolet, estate manager, for a virtual tasting of the three Bodegas Caro wines.  

The winery, built in 1884, is in the heart of Mendoza and the vineyards are about 3,000 feet in altitude. The area didn’t develop as a wine region until a railroad was established around 1915 between Mendoza and Buenos Aires. 

Although malbec is less important in Bordeaux today, it was introduced to Mendoza by the French. However, it is no longer the same malbec of France, thanks to replantings following the spread of phylloxera.  

“Not all malbecs are the same,” Rolet said. 

The 2018 Caro Aruma ($15) is one of the best malbecs we’ve tasted in a long time. Rich and dark in color, it has floral aromas, plum notes, medium body and tannins, and delicate finish. It is a great wine to sip or share with burgers or pasta. 

The 2017 Caro Amancaya ($20), named after an elusive native Indian flower found in high altitudes of Mendoza, brings cabernet sauvignon into the blend.  A great value, it is richer in style with earthy, dark cherry flavors and a hint of spice. Malbec makes up 67 percent of the blend.  

The flagship of the partnership is the 2017 Caro CARO ($65), a full-bodied wine with richness and complexity. Intense plum flavors with layers of mocha, mint and dark chocolate. The grapes for this elegant wine are selected with a focus on terroir.  The best blocks are from calcareous and limestone soils deposited from remnants of a river that flowed through the region. It is made only in the best seasons and aged for 18 months in French oak barrels from Lafite’s cooperage. 

Wine picks 

• Art of Earth Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2019 ($10).  Using only organically grown montepulciano grapes, this Italian gem delivers a lot of depth and fruit-forward flavors for the money. Spice punctuates a red fruit flavor profile. Good tannin and a hint of tea. 

• Le Volte dell’Ornellaia 2018 ($35). Made by Tuscany’s iconic Ornellaia winery, this medium body and vibrant blend is made up of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and the native sangiovese. Floral and herbal aromas set the stage for extracted plum and black cherry flavors. 

Exploring the southern Rhone region

(Sept. 28, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Grape growing and wine production in the northern and southern Rhone Valley is a tale of two worlds. Although the greater Rhone region shares the commonality of the Rhone River, north and south are unique environments with each producing radically different wines.  

In part one of our journey through the Rhone Valley we will comment on northern Rhone wines. 

The northern Rhone, which features a cooler continental climate, begins about 20 miles south of Lyon where the Rhone River has carved a gash in the earth and steep hillsides with terraced vineyards descend to the river. The syrah grape dominates this landscape as the only permitted red grape variety allowed by AOC rules. A small amount of white grape varieties is also permitted, some of which are bottled as white wine and some of which are blended with the syrah grape to produce one of the eight official appellations.  

The two most recognized and celebrated appellations are Hermitage and Cote-Rotie, which are known for their sturdy, long-lived wines that command premium prices and are produced in limited quantities.   

Only five of the named appellations produce red wine in the northern Rhone and we recently tasted wines from three of them to contrast and compare in an informal tasting.  

Beginning in the northern Rhone, near the Rhone Valley gateway town of Vienne, lies Cote-Rotie which literally means “roasted slope.” As in all northern Rhone red wines, syrah is the main player although up to 20 percent viognier, a fragrant floral white grape, may be co-fermented during the winemaking process.  

We tasted the E. Guigal Brune et Blonde Cote-Rotie 2016 ($85). This delightful red wine exhibited a youthful, bright lightness that tamed the syrah in the blend perhaps, in part, due to the addition of 4 percent viognier. Pure berry fruit flavors a hint of bacon fat, as well as pretty apparent acidity, created a terrific package. Delightful now but it has the potential for extended aging. 

Moving south about midway through the Rhone Valley hard against the river lies the appellation of St. Joseph. Red wines in this region mature earlier than in the more heralded Hermitage and Cote-Rotie regions. Up to 9 percent marsanne and roussanne, two white grapes, can be blended with syrah here.  

We tasted the Domaine Les Alexandrins St. Joseph 2017 ($40) and were won over by its upfront fruity charm -- a mélange of plum, cherry and blackberry. A little tight, this beauty needs a few years to develop further but should reward with 3-5 years of slumber. It was the favorite of the northern Rhones. 

Abutting St. Joseph to the south, and on the eastern side of the Rhone River, lies the appellation of Crozes-Hermitage. Crozes Hermitage is the largest appellation in the Northern Rhone and one of the more available wines in the U.S. White grapes marsanne and roussanne are allowed in up to 8 percent of the finished red wine and in general produce wines of higher acidity and often display herbal notes.  

We tasted the Yann Chave Crozes-Hermitage Le Rouvre 2016 ($60) made entirely from syrah and from a single parcel of 50-year-old vines. Blackberry notes dominate the palate with hints of herbs and roasted meat.  

In a future column we will detail wines we tasted from the southern Rhone.  

Smoke taint 

Two professors from the University of California at Davis recently hosted a seminar with wine representatives to discuss of the impact of the fires that have ravaged much of California and Oregon. 

According to Anita Oberholster on “Office Hours,” California’s style of winemaking may spare red wines from the worse of smoke taint.  Wines with high alcohol, some residual sugar and low pH are in a best position to cover up the compounds of smoke taint. PH measures ripeness in relation to acidity. 

As we suggested in last week’s column, winemakers will limit the amount of skin contact in red wines because skins absorb the smoke. That will lend itself to white pinot noirs and rosés. We also suspect we’ll see naturally light-colored red wines adulterated with concentrated fruit juice, such as Mega Purple. Winemakers don’t like to talk about this, but it’s common to correct a wine’s color to make it more appealing. Alas, you’ll never know if they did but the circumstances seem to call for a dosage of concentrated rubired grape juice. 

Because Oregon is so dependent on pinot noir and syrah, both of which are delicate, the results could be worse for those grapes. 

Another observation from Oberholster: hand-harvested chardonnay could fare better. Machine harvesting breaks the skins on the way to the winery and thus sets off fermentation of smoke-damaged grapes.  Most expensive chardonnays are hand-harvested. 

Wine picks 

• Domaine Anderson Pinot Noir Anderson Valley 2017 ($40). Owned by the Louis Roederer family of Champagne fame, this winery only produces pinot noir and chardonnay. The pinot noir is a winner with cherry, blackberry cola notes and a hint of cinnamon. A great package at a fair price.           

• Intercept Red Blend Paso Robles 2017 ($20). Usually celebrity wines under-deliver and are over-priced, but not this one. Intercept was created by Charles Woodson, a Heisman trophy winner, an 18-year celebrated NFL veteran and long-time wine lover. This fantastic red blend is forged from a polyglot of grape varieties dominated by petite sirah and zinfandel as well as smaller amounts of petite verdot, tempranillo and syrah. Intercept displays a wonderful smooth fruitiness with plum and black cherries dominating as well as a distinctive brightness that many Paso Robles red wines capture. Well worth the modest price.             

• Charles Krug Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2017 ($45). Charles Krug seems to over deliver for the price. Not an overly complex cabernet sauvignon, just a delicious well-made glass of wine that features a pure cherry fruit nose and flavors at a decent price.                                                                                           

• Chateau Lassègue St. Emilion Grand Cru 2016 ($60-70). Mostly merlot and cabernet franc with a dash of cabernet sauvignon thrown in creates a big styled St. Emilion that can stand up to any cuisine. Cassis, plums, and dried cherry elements dominate with a subtle refined oak under-note. A bit of earthiness at the end and a long rich full finish.                                                    

Beware the smoke taint

(Sept. 21, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

For those of us not living on the West Coast, the fires enveloping wine regions in California, Oregon and Washington are frightening to watch on TV. Not only have the widespread fires led to a loss of life, but a lot of buildings and livelihoods have been destroyed. 

The impact of these deadly fires on the wine industry is still unknown – or, more likely, untold. We had difficulty finding winemakers willing or able to talk to us. However, a recent statement from the California Wine Institute said that although the situation remains fluid, to date the impact of the fires is minimal. Only a couple of the 4,200 wineries have suffered extensive damage.  

Although that’s encouraging, it isn’t the whole story in regards to what kind of wine we can expect from the 2020 harvest. The real question is whether the grapes have suffered smoke taint – and to what extent. 

Wildfire smoke releases compounds called volatile phenols that attach to the grape’s sugar to form glycosides. Oftentimes, the wet ashtray flavor of tainted grapes doesn’t manifest itself until fermentation.  That leaves the winemaker in a quandary and many expected to either demote the juice to bulk wines or simply dump them. No one wants to make a wine so damaged that it will ruin their reputation. We’ve even seen a suggestion that some may make rosé out of their cabernet (rosé spends little time on the skins). Maybe we’ll see more white pinot noir, too. 

There are several things to consider. 

First, vineyards in general are a natural firebreak. Approaching fires may burn a couple of rows of vines but then stop. Green grapes and leaves just aren’t an accelerant like dried brush. Even vines burned by fire can recover and produce grapes the next year. 

Second, some of the white grapes – depending on location -- were already harvested by the time the fires approached.  In 2017, the wild fires came in November when 90 percent of the crop was already picked. This year harvest was running about two weeks late in regions like Monterey County, so most of the grapes are still on the vine.  Pickers were allowed back into the evacuation areas to pick grapes on an emergency basis, but many of them had evacuated to addresses unknown.  

Third, the extent of smoke taint depends on the grape variety. Chardonnay, for instance, spends little time on the skins after the crush, so smoke taint is minimized. However, cabernet sauvignon is one of the last grapes normally picked and it stays on the grape skins for a couple of days during fermentation to provide color and complexity. Thus, whatever smoke is on the skin will likely pass to the wine. The same goes for pinot noir, a delicate grape variety that is prone to disease and now smoke. 

The vulnerability of certain grapes is particularly threatening to areas such as the Willamette Valley in Oregon and Santa Lucia Highlands in California that are focused on pinot noir.  

How does a grape grower know if his grapes have smoke taint? He sends them to a licensed lab. Unfortunately, the labs have been hammered and grape growers are being told not to expect results for a month. 

Many winemakers are saying the grapes are not ripe enough to pick and they hope rain will wash off the taint before the grapes are harvested. But in the middle of all of this, they have to determine when the grapes have hit peak maturity and then find the pickers to harvest them. The haze hanging over much of the wine region may spell them relief from the sun.  

In a year wracked by high temperatures and a COVID-19 virus that locked down tasting rooms, this is the last thing winemakers needed.  Although many growers have crop insurance, it doesn’t cover other costs, including debt payments and personnel. Many growers have long-term contracts with producers who will have a problem rejecting the grapes if lab results show no taint. 

But wine producers and their growers are resilient and have faced fires before, although not to this extent. They are surprisingly optimistic. And, we should be too. 

We’ll keep you posted. 

Marietta Cellars 

Over the past two decades we have turned to Marietta Cellars for a dependable wine that never fails to please.  In particular, its legendary Old Vine Red blend, first released in 1982, rewards the palate with a burst of flavor.  

Winemaker Chris Bilbro never gave up his recipe, other than that the wine was based predominantly on zinfandel. It is a blend sometimes released twice a year – hence, instead of being designated by a particular year, it is labeled with a lot number.  We first started drinking Old Vines at Lot 9.  Today, it is on lot 70. For $15, it’s a great value 

We sat with Bilbro on a number of occasions. Alas, he died last year and his son Scot carries on his legacy.  Scot recently entered in a long-term distribution agreement with VINTUS. 

Marietta Cellars has vineyard sources in Sonoma and Mendocino counties.  

We were also impressed with the 2017 Marietta Christo ($24), a Rhone grape variety blend that overdelivers. It is composed of syrah, grenache petite sirah and viognier from the North Coast. Lots of fresh cherry flavors with black pepper and licorice notes. 

Wine picks 

• St. Supery Virtu 2018 ($32).  With 54 percent of this wine made from semillon, it is unique.  We loved it for its exotic grapefruit and citrus flavors.  

• Ram’s Gate Carneros Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($38). This estate sauvignon blanc takes the grape variety to a higher level with a rich texture and even some complexity, thanks to the time it spends in oak barrels and the partial musque clone that adds dimension. Grapefruit, lemon grass and a bit of apricot highlight this expressive and delicious sauvignon blanc. 

• Las Moradas de San Martin Senda Garnacha 2016. ($13). It’s been a long time since we’ve found such a great wine value. We thought it was a $40-50 wine when we tasted this gem from Madrid and was happy to see it going for significantly less. Great grip and depth with violet aroma and plum flavor with a hint of mineral, spice and vanilla. Very long finish. You may have to order it online. 

• Angela Vineyards Yamill-Carlton Pinot Noir 2017 ($38). Fresh red cherry and cranberry flavors with a dash of baking spice. 

The great wines from Santa Lucia Highlands

(Sept. 15, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Listen to the winemakers and grape growers in the Santa Lucia Highlands and you’d think there is no better place to make wine. They may be right. 

“Every year my father says we have the vintage of the century,” Mark Pisoni said in a recent Zoom program. His father is Gary Pisoni, one of the pioneers who settled in this ideal grape-growing region in Monterey County, about 2 ½ hours south of San Francisco. The family operation makes some of the best chardonnay and pinot noir in the region. 

This 18-mile-long sub appellation benefits from a confluence of climate phenomena.  A deep canyon of cold water, just offshore of the Pacific Ocean, fuels winds that sweep down the Salinas Valley at speeds of 10 to 15 miles per hour and often gusting to 25. 

Morgan winemaker Dan Lee called the winds “our air-conditioner.” 

Most of the well-drained vineyards are planted on the lower slopes of the Santa Lucia mountain range at elevations ranging from 50 to 1,650 feet. Granite and other minerals that wash down from the mountains and enrich the soil.  

Coupled with the morning fog, the winds create a condition too cold for zinfandel and cabernet sauvignon, but perfect for chardonnay and pinot noir – the two primary grapes grown in the region’s 5,900 planted acres. 

Cooler conditions lengthen the growing season, the longest in all of California. Grapes ripen slowly and develop stronger acidity. Low rainfall, especially during crucial ripening periods, forces stressed roots to glide through loose sandy loam to absorb the minerals and create multi-dimensional wines. Berries are small and thick skinned too.  The wines we tasted from here have a consistent vibrancy, balanced acidity and depth of flavor.  

Santa Lucia Highlands may not have the tourist attractions of Napa Valley, but it certainly has the vineyards to give Napa a run for its money. Carmel, Monterey and Big Sur offer the upscale accommodations and for visitors. 

Here are our favorite wines from Santa Lucia Highlands: 

• Morgan Double L Vineyard Riesling 2019 ($25). With just a touch of residual sugar, this fresh and bright riesling gives this grape variety new life. Meyer lemon aromas, apple and melon flavors. 

• Luli Chardonnay 2017 ($24). A great value in chardonnay, this has apple and citrus aromas followed by complex pear and peach flavors with a dash of minerality. 

• Wrath KW Ranch Syrah 2017 ($35). The syrahs from this region are consistently lush and complex, as demonstrated by this gem from sustainably grown grapes. Blackberry and kirsch flavors with solid but fine tannins. 

• Scheid Reserve Chardonnay 2017 ($45). Rich, viscous mouthfeel with floral aromas and notes of pears and apples. Oak-inspired hints of vanilla, butterscotch and spice. 

• Cattleya The Initiation Syrah 2017 ($70). With grapes from the Soberanes Vineyard, winemaker Bibiana Gonzalez Rave has mastered an inaugural, complex syrah that is extracted but not overdone. Layered aromatics with blackberry and plum notes, rich mouthfeel and hints of pepper and licorice. Great wine. 

• Lucia Soberanes Vineyard Chardonnay 2018 ($45). The Pisoni family, first introduced to Santa Lucia Highlands in 1982, are farmers first. But this well-made chardonnay shows off the family’s winemaking skills as well. We loved the minerality that serves as a backbone to a concentrated chardonnay with Meyer lemon and apple notes and a rich mouthfeel.  

• Hahn SLH Orchestral Pinot Noir 2016 ($90). Using a field blend of clones in the Burgundy tradition, this complex and lush pinot noir demonstrates abundant strawberry and cranberry flavors with a long and luxurious finish. 

• Miner Gary’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2017 ($60). “Gary” is Gary Pisoni, a pioneer in the region whose 50-acre vineyard is the source for many prized wines.  The Miner version has black cherry and cranberry flavors cloaked in a rich, velvety body and accented by nutmeg, cloves and vanilla. 

• Clarice Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018 ($90). Grapes from two vineyards and two different clones harvested at the same time make for a broad and complex pinot noir with fresh boysenberry, black cherry and raspberry flavors. 

• Talbott Vineyards Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Chardonnay 2017 ($45). Sleepy Hollow, first planted in 1972, has garnered a lot of respect for its chardonnay and for good reason. Fermented and aged in oak, this delightful wine is round with tropical fruit and apricot notes, punctuated by spice, nutmeg and vanilla notes.  

• ROAR Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018 ($65).  We liked the earthiness and suppleness of this exquisite pinot noir. Copious black cherry and raspberry notes with floral aromas and long finish. 

Wine picks 

• Steele Parmelee H ill Vineyard Sonoma Valley Chardonnay 2018 ($36). Barrel fermented and aged in oak, this balanced chardonnay exudes tropical fruit and peach flavors with a hint of butterscotch. Good acidity.  Steele’s Cuvee Chardonnay ($24) is also a good buy.  

• Clos Pegase Chardonnay 2018 ($30). Ripe peach and melon flavors and smooth mouthfeel make this a delicious chardonnay.  

• Cameron Hughes Lot 676 White Blend 2016 ($14).  Roussane, viognier and marsanne from Santa Barbara County make up this outstanding and inexpensive blend. Round and bright citrus flavors with a dose of pineapple and stone fruit make it an ideal aperitif for summer quaffing. 

• ZD Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($27). We loved this surprisingly complex sauvignon blanc for its generous aromas of apples and pears, bright grapefruit flavors and fresh acidity. 

• Fratelli Vineyard American Super Tuscan Blend 2017 ($30). Some may quibble with a Napa Valley producer using Italy’s “Super Tuscan” label, but you can’t quibble with wonderful flavors that emulate the Tuscan blend of sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon.  

• Alma Rosa Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir 2017 ($45). We liked the bright fruit and earthiness of this delicious and extracted pinot noir. Black cherries, raspberries and currants dominate the palate. 

Finding the right wine for grilled food

(September 8, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

At this time of the year we spend the weekday thinking about the weekend. Not only does the weekend spell us relief from the daily grind, it opens the possibility to outdoor grilling. There is nothing that happens in the kitchen that replicates the sensory experience of smoking coals and sizzling steaks. Get your hunger on. 

Labor Day may be over, but that doesn’t mean it’s time to pack up the grill. A lot of us – depending where we spend our winters – grill year-round. And those of us in northern climes grill until the snow falls.  

And why not? Grilling is a weekend past-time that can be enjoyed even in a pandemic.  There’s always a glass in our hands while we grill and then a second wine to pair with the food.  

As we have said countless times, choosing a wine to go with your grilled food requires primary consideration for the sauce. For instance, grilled chicken kabobs marinated in a citrus sauce demands a white wine with good acidity. Put a sweet rub on that chicken or slather on a tomato-based sauce and you better have a juicy red wine.  Steak? Filets can be paired with pinot noir, but a fatty rib eye demands a tannic cabernet sauvignon. 

Ribs with a barbecue sauce? Give us a zinfandel any day. Steak? Cabernet sauvignon. Burgers?  Syrah, light Italian reds, Rioja tempranillos, beaujolais. 

The most universal red wine in our book? Cotes du Rhone. The simple wines from this French region of the Rhone Valley are generally under $20 and are packed with acidity and tannin to match fatty foods, including ribs, pulled pork and even steak. We promise your crowd will be pleased. 

Here are a dozen wines we recommend for grilled meat: 

• Rombauer Vineyards California Zinfandel 2017 ($22). Broad and jammy blackberry and raspberry flavors with good spice and big alcohol.  

• Hamel Family Wines Zinfandel 2017 ($58).  This is a dynamic, irresistible zinfandel from Sonoma Valley. Big and broad floral cherry aromas with wisps of earth and herbs. Deep cherry and raspberry flavors that avoid the raisiny profile and instead brace the palate with fresh, honed character. Layered spice and black pepper with long finish. 

• Cellier des Dauphins Reserve Cotes du Rhone 2018 ($12). Jammy black cherry and blackberry fruit flavors with herbs, spice and enough tannins to allow this to stand up to grilled beef. 

• 7 Deadly Zins Old Vine Zinfandel 2017 ($16). From Lodi, the epicenter of California zinfandel, this jammy wine has blackberry flavors and hints of spice and coffee. 

• Cliff Lede Rock Block “Dancing Heart” Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($110) The producer likes his rock music, so the name of this wine comes from two vineyard blocks named after songs: Rush’s “Closer to the Heart” block and Bruce Springsteen’s “Dancing in the Dark” block.  Big wine with ripe blackberry and plum flavors and a soft landing on the palate. Complex and serious, it’s a wine that calls for steak. 

• J. Lohr Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($35). Reasonably priced, this smooth cabernet sauvignon from Paso Robles has a lush texture, plum and blackberry flavors with a hint of chocolate. 

• Paraduxx Atlas Peak Napa Valley Red Wine 2016 ($82). Duckhorn uses this series of wines to showcase blends. This one includes sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon. Generous red fruit aromas and rich raspberry, cherry flavors. A versatile wine that would do well with beef and lamb. 

• Saldo California Zinfandel 2018 ($32). Brought to us by the makers of The Prisoner, this rich and ripe zinfandel is a perfect match to grilled foods accompanied by barbecue sauces. Raspberry and pomegranate flavors with hints of vanilla and chocolate. It is blended with cabernet sauvignon, petite sirah, syrah and charbono. 

•  Cellier des Dauphins Cotes du Rhone 2018 ($14). Simple and quaffable, this blend of grenache (80 percent) and syrah shows off black cherry and currant notes with a dash of spice.                                                                                          

• St. Supery ELU Estate Napa Valley 2015 ($75). Although this is technically a Meritage wine which utilizes at least two of the traditional red or white Bordeaux varietals, we don’t see this term used very often anymore. It is 74 percent cabernet sauvignon with the balance of the blend filled out with merlot, malbec, cabernet franc, and petite verdot. All French oak barrel aging gives this red blend an elegance that justifies the price tag. Black raspberry, plum and cedar scents and flavors dominate with a firm acid, soft tannin finish.         

• Bella Union Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 ($80). Break out the beef tenderloin for this delicious, complex cabernet sauvignon. Founded by the partners of Far Niente and only in its second vintage, it is blended with malbec, petit verdot and cabernet franc. Supple tannins and generous notes of cola and black berries with hints of anise and cocoa.  

• Cameron Hughes Lot 625 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($24).  Cameron Hughes has built a reputation on buying wine and juice on the secondary market. He cannot disclose the names of the vineyards but attests they are very well known. The value, then, is the consumer gets a quality wine for a lot less money. This is a terrific cabernet sauvignon for the price. Extracted and lush black cherry and blackberry flavors with hints of spice and chocolate. Available on line. 

Wine picks 

• Silverado Vineyards Mt. George Cabernet Franc 2017 ($55). We loved this layered blueberry and plum flavored wine with hints of tobacco, herbs and cocoa. Long finish. 

• Landmark Vineyards Overlook Chardonnay 2018 ($27). This Sonoma County gem reveals apple and peach aromas followed by ripe stone fruit flavors and a hint of nutmeg. 

• Fattoria Selvapiana Pomino Rosso Villa di Petrognano 2016 ($21).  This blend of sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon is an excellent representative of the values of super-Tuscan wines. Only two producers make wine in this historic region, so it’s unusual. Firm tannins, fruit-forward flavors of black berry and cherry. 

Cameron Hughes reincarnated: de Negoce

(August 24, 2020)

By TOM MARQUARDT and PATRICK DARR 

Cameron Hughes doesn’t give up easily. A negociant since 2001, he discreetly gathered unwanted wines from top California producers and sold them for a fraction of the cost under his own label with the understanding he wouldn’t reveal the name of the producer.  However, despite what appeared to be a lucrative business, the popular brand fell into bankruptcy and was bought by Vintage Wine Estates in 2017. Once a top seller for Costco, Cameron Hughes wines went from being wildly popular in stores to being available only online. 

But Hughes came up with another idea to take advantage of a growing glut of premium bulk wine: sell the wines under a new label as futures. 

Modeled after Bordeaux’s en premeur program, de Négoce wines are sold in advance of their release. Hughes continues to buy bulk wine in bottle and barrels just as he did with his own label. But once he has a commitment from his anonymous producers, he alerts his loyal following who can then order de Négoce wines before they are released.  The buyer, who must order at least a case, is told the appellation, but otherwise he doesn’t know much more than the grape varieties. For placing his trust in Hughes, he is rewarded with phenomenal savings.