Tom's blog

Stonestreet adjusts to the elements

The changing climate around the world has forced grape growers into leaving their comfort zone in search of different grape varieties that will tolerate heat, experimenting with new vititcultural practices and modifying how they make wine. It’s a revolutionary era that will preserve the industry and introduce consumers to new wines. 

We recently interviewed Christopher Jackson, second-generation proprietor of Stonestreet Estate Winery, about how his family operation is adjusting. Jess Stonestreet Jackson and Barbara Banke launched the estate in 1995. 

Located on Alexander Mountain, the vineyards are already facing difficult growing conditions even without climate change.

Jackson said, “Over the last two decades, the extreme of winegrowing on the mountain have continued to grow in intensity. In 2004, recognizing the challenges in achieving physiological ripeness and high stress to the vineyards, we began implementing regenerative farming practices that could mitigate the growing intensity of conditions and foster resilience of the land and vines.” 

He said he has identified more rigorous rootstock and clone combinations to reduce the stress on the vines. But the producer also has planted drought-resistant varieties, such as assyrtiko, chenin blanc and malvasia blanca. How these grapes fit into future wines – as a blend or stand-alone – remains to be seen.  

With disappearing sources of water for irrigation. Stonestreet added reservoirs on the mountain to capture the rainwater. Since 2008, water use across Jackson Family wineries has been reduced 43 percent.

More grape varieties approved in Bordeaux

Four new red and two white wine grape varietals can be grown in Bordeaux as a result of formal approval by the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualite, a part of France’s Ministry of Agriculture.

The decision comes after years of research by scientists and growers who were focused on supplementing Bordeaux’s varieties to address the impact of climate change. Arinarnoa, castets, marselan and touriga nacional — a Portuguese varietal — are said to adapt well to stress from temperature increases.

The two new white varietals are alvarinho and liloria.

Bordeaux producers are loathe to change tradition, but the climate changes have forced their hand. With these grapes being first planted this year, it’s hard to predict who will use them and how they will change the flavor profile of these prestigious wines, but I can’t wait to try them.

How about some caminante?

The University of California at Davis has released five new grape varieties that it says are resistant to Pierce’s disease, a bacteria spread by insects. Pierce’s disease is a growing threat to grape growers, costing more than $100 million in losses a year.

The grape varieties are: camminare noir, paseante noir, errante noir, ambulo blanc and caminante blanc. Hardly household words in wine, right?

According to a press release from UC Davis, camminare noir is similar to a blend of cabernet sauvignon and petite sirah. Caminante blanc has characteristics of sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. Pasante noir is like zinfandel and errante noir is most like cabernet sauvignon.

Ambulo blanc, similar to sauvignon blanc, and caminante blanc, similar to sauvignon blanc and chardonnay, are white grape varieties.

The cuttings will be available in 2021. Because it takes a good six years for a decent crop, don’t expect to see these on the market soon. Even then, the grapes will probably be consigned to a blend.