I know you’re not suppose to drink on airplanes because the altitude change dehydrates the body and affects your energy more so than it would if you were on terra firma. But there is something special about crossing the pond to Europe with a drink to celebrate the occasion.

When flying overseas, I usually have a couple of glasses of wine before sleep and have never felt worse for it. But until recently I didn’t know the more important impact was on how the wine tasted.

Wine consumed at 3,000 to 5,000 feet will taste different than at ground zero. We read one report that you taste about 20 percent less sugar and 30 percent less salinity in wines consumed on planes. .

TAP Air Portugal actually sent up a team to determine what wines go best with altitude. With a vast portfolio from all regions in Portugal, they came up with a list that took this into account and matched the cuisine. They chose fruity and fresh wines that showed better with their food, especially that served in business class.

Wines grown close to the sea usually have high salinity. We notice it albarinos from Spain and assyrtiko from Greece. Sweet wines, such as moscato and sauterne, aren’t going to taste the same with 20 percent less sugar. There are some chardonnays that could be better without the obvious sugar.

Dehydration also influences the wine experience. You don’t recognize as many aromas – some say you lose as much as 25 percent. Since the palate only picks up five elements – sweet, bitter, salt, acid and umami (the savory character that is akin to beef stock) – most of a wine’s character is determined by the aromas. Try pinching your nose the next time you taste and you’ll see how much you are missing.

Drinking a glass of water alongside wine will go a long way in enjoying the wine.

Meanwhile, steer towards fruity and less tannic wines.