Bonterra has been recognized as a pioneer in organic farming, so much so that it has added "Organic" to to its name. One reason, it seems to me, is that it wants to distinguish its well-known organic wines from a relatively new series of prestigious cuvees. "Bonterra" is noticeably absent from the label.

Meant to emphasize the biodiversity in the vineyards, these wines have purity of fruit, richness, body and drinkability.

I loved 2013 The Butler ($50), a blend of 80 percent syrah, 8 percent mourvedre, 6 percent grenache and 6 percent zinfandel. Generous aromas and flavors with rich mouthfeel and length.

The other wines in this series includes the 2014 The McNab ($50), a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and old vine petit sirah, and the 2015 The Roost, a Burgundian-style chardonnay.