I’ve been sampling a lot of West Coast pinot noir lately. I love the full-body, extracted fruit character of many of the premium wines, but admittedly they have skewed my vision of pinot noir. Isn’t this the same grape grown in Burgundy?

You couldn’t tell if you tasted them side by side. While Burgundy produces pinot noir that by and large are elegant and even understated, California makes pinot noir that hits the palate with a hammer. Attribute that to the difference in soil and climate — but also to the winemaker’s focus.

I recently tasted a few pinot noirs made by Maison Drouhin — some were from Burgundy but there were also pinot noirs made by the producer’s Willamette Valley center. Even though Veronique Drouhin uses the same techniques and philosophy in both regions, the wines were very different. I have always loved the Drouhin Oregon “Laurene” Pinot Noir and the 2016 did not disappoint. But it is softer and more juicy than the Drouhin Cote de Beaune Rouge.

Since 2013 Drouhin also has been making pinot noir and chardonnay under the Roserock label. From the Eola-Amity Hills AVA, this fruit-forward, vibrant wine has the Drouhin signature.

Given a choice, I like the subtlety and elegance of Drouhin’s burgundy. And, the price isn’t that much different. The “Laurene” sells for $78; the Cote de Beaune sells for $54.