I’ve been fortunate to enjoy Penfold’s Grange a number of times and I’m still waiting for my 1995 to mature. But, wow, where has Yarra Yering been all of my life? Maybe I should wonder where I’ve been.

I was recently gifted a 1982 Dry Red Wine No. 2 Shiraz from this producer — thanks, Ben, if you’re reading this! Still very much alive, it was silky bliss. It spent 21 months in 50 percent new French oak and contains a little mataro, viognier and marsanne. Generous aromatics, light red color, red berry flavors and a dash of spice.

This producer has been around for a long time. Established by Dr Bailey Carrodus in Yarra Valley, the first vintage was in 1973. It makes a Red Wine No. 1, which blends Bordeaux grapes. These wines sell for more than $100 a bottle today and obviously age very well.

Other than Grange, I haven’t cellared much Australian wine for very long. Maybe I should.