When most people think of premium Australian wine, they may think first and only of Penfold’s Grange. But the pricey, legendary shiraz is hardly the only Australian wine that excels in quality and commands the price to prove it.
Torbreck, for one, has established a place in the country’s hall of fame. Founded by David Powell in 1994, the wines of its Barossa Valley estate were scoring awards for years. Then, Powell had a falling out with the winery’s owner Pete Kight in 2013. Powell left the company and immediately launched a new brand with his son Callum, now 25 years old. Today, Powell & Son wines are following a similar trajectory of winning awards and spinning heads with dizzying prices.
I had the opportunity to taste the recent releases and can attest to the 91-99 point scores they are getting. Made from grapes grown on vines more than 100 years old, the 2015 Kraehe Shiraz and the 2015 Steinert Shiraz are two of the most complex shirazes we’ve tasted but you’ll need $623 to buy one. More reasonable in price is the 2015 Powell & Son GSM (grenache, syrah, mourvedre) that sells for $58 or the Riverside GSM for $21.
Powell doesn’t own any vineyards – he was able to win over the owners of vineyards who once sold to Torbreck. Call it poetic justice. Powell farms nearly all of the vineyards himself. He also uses old concrete ferment vats and basket pressing – a unique form of winemaking that obviously works well for him.