Stonestreet adjusts to the elements

The changing climate around the world has forced grape growers into leaving their comfort zone in search of different grape varieties that will tolerate heat, experimenting with new vititcultural practices and modifying how they make wine. It’s a revolutionary era that will preserve the industry and introduce consumers to new wines. 

We recently interviewed Christopher Jackson, second-generation proprietor of Stonestreet Estate Winery, about how his family operation is adjusting. Jess Stonestreet Jackson and Barbara Banke launched the estate in 1995. 

Located on Alexander Mountain, the vineyards are already facing difficult growing conditions even without climate change.

Jackson said, “Over the last two decades, the extreme of winegrowing on the mountain have continued to grow in intensity. In 2004, recognizing the challenges in achieving physiological ripeness and high stress to the vineyards, we began implementing regenerative farming practices that could mitigate the growing intensity of conditions and foster resilience of the land and vines.” 

He said he has identified more rigorous rootstock and clone combinations to reduce the stress on the vines. But the producer also has planted drought-resistant varieties, such as assyrtiko, chenin blanc and malvasia blanca. How these grapes fit into future wines – as a blend or stand-alone – remains to be seen.  

With disappearing sources of water for irrigation. Stonestreet added reservoirs on the mountain to capture the rainwater. Since 2008, water use across Jackson Family wineries has been reduced 43 percent.

England's potential for more than sparkling wine

As consumers are becoming more familiar with sparkling wine from the United Kingdom, producers there are wondering if there is potential for still wine from chardonnay and pinot noir grapes.

A team of researchers from the University of East Anglia, the London School of Economics, Vinescapes Ltd and Weatherquest Ltd have studied climate changes with an eye to the future. Warming conditions over the last year has seen viticultural growth expend nearly 400 percent. The conditions are similar — if not better — than those in Champagne. The sparkling wines I’ve tasted from here in the last year are ever bit as good as top champagnes, a conclusion born from several blind tastings among friends.

Although the growing areas in southern England and Wales have warmed, they are still cool. While that is ideal of pinot noir and chardonnay grapes used for sparkling wine, they are not ideal of still wine that requires more maturity and ripeness from the grapes.

The team forecasts that certain areas in these regions are projected to become 1.4 degrees centigrade by 2040.

Dr. Alistair Nesbitt, the lead author in the study, said, “This expands the area of suitability for pinot noir for sparkling wine production, but also new areas will open up within the growing season temperature suitability range for still pinot noir production and for growing varieties such as sauvignon blanc, riesling, semillon and more disease-resistant varieties.”

Nesbitt saw potential in Burgundy- and Baden-style wines.

To demonstrate the world-wide changes, more established reasons are looking to plant less popular grape varieities to accommodate climate changes. I communicated with Christopher Jackson of Stonestreet Estate Vineyards recently and he said he has experimental plantings of assyrtiko, chenin blanc and malvasia bianc.

Producers across the globe are preparing for a significant shift in climate conditions. Not only are they looking for more drought-resistant grapes, but they are looking for new growing regions.