I always look forward to who is chosen as the San Francisco Chronicle’s Winemaker of the Year. Its writers, including columnist Ester Mobley, gave a lot of thought to the people who influenced the wine industry or who cut new paths in an industry often enveloped in tradition.

Recently, for instance, I had the opportunity to interview Bibiana Gonzalez Rave, an innovative and new winemaker who was knighted as the newspaper’s Winemaker of the Year in 2015. Her handcrafted Cattleya wines are extraordinary. But her award gave her gravitas that no publicity could equal. It’s an award that for the chosen will remain a highlight on their resumes.

Alas, the newspaper elected not to name a winemaker of the year for 2020, perhaps the worst year for American wine. The reasons are compelling: the COVID-19 pandemic that closed tasting rooms, the wildfires that closed production for many wineries, a sexual harassment controversy at the Court of Master Sommeliers, and other roadblocks to a successful year. I get it.

Instead, the newspaper featured a dozen wines that writers thought better represented the successes of the year. It’s a rather novel twist to featuring a person.

Let’s hope for a better 2021.