As the ash settles on California vineyards, producers are starting to make difficult business decisions — and many of them are saying they won’t be producing wines in 2020.

More than 7 million acres have been destroyed by wildfires in the U.S. — 3.7 million are in wine country. And, there is a lot of fire season ahead.

Napa and Sonoma counties were particularly hard hit. But damage from smoke taint depends on wind direction, slope orientation, distance to the fire and more. Labs are backed up in analyzing the amount of smoke taint in the grapes, but many producers already are rejecting purchased grapes.

Among the producers who have decided against a harvest this year: St. Supery, Somerston and Priest Ranch, Lamborn, Pfendler, and several others not as recognized. The financial loss is huge unless they can turn the damaged grapes into bulk wine. Some have even considered making grappa, which actually tastes good with a little smoke.

Just before the fires, I sat in on a virtual wine tasting with Emma Swain, CEO of St. Supery. Like others, they were improvising to survive the pandemic, but the fires stopped whatever momentum they were making. I reviewed their semillon and now hear they won’t be making any in 2020. What a shame. But Swain made the right decision — St. Supery’s reputation could be damaged for years if flawed wine hit the market.

Consumers will have to be careful when they buy wines from the 2020 vintage. Why most reputable producers will suffer the loss and not make wine, others will and hope that consumers won’t pick up the ash tray flavors or care.